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Food Tour of American South, in Conde Nast Traveler

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Old Nov 22nd, 2012, 03:54 AM
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Food Tour of American South, in Conde Nast Traveler

Might be of interest to a few folks here, although most places mentioned are already well known:



http://www.cntraveler.com/food/2012/...north-carolina
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Old Nov 22nd, 2012, 08:04 AM
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Read the article in Conde Naste - and it gives some good info.

When I think of Southern Cooking - even though they have a lot of other choices, the great Smithfield Hams come to mind -as does the great fried catfish we had in Culman, Alabama - along with a huge loaf of Onion type rings. And believe it or not - grits and gravy ain't all that bad.

For the traditional Southern Cooking - you need a cleansing when you return home.
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Old Nov 22nd, 2012, 01:19 PM
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For those of us from the South who live elsewhere now, Southern cooking is the cleansing we GET when we come home to visit! Mmmmmm!
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 03:41 AM
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He is VERY enamored of the high end places (as you say, already well known) and "Nashville".
John T. Edge is an absolute treasure in knowing Southern food. Our excellent food editor in charlotte is also on his board of Southern Foodways (and also the James Beard Foundation). This "writer" would have done better to look through any one of Edge's books.
Two years ago our food editor did a start to finish report of how to "make" a country ham. It was truly an interesting foray into the "science" and the uncertainty of what the farmer will have at the end of a long and painstaking process--if the ham will even be edible/unspoiled after curing/hanging/etc.
We've already had our discussion of Husk--chef undoubtedly knew he was coming. REally NOT the best way to rate a restaurant.
I think one of the best critiques of southern cooking, albeit only of Charleston, was in the NYTimes about 6 (or more) years ago by _____ Apple (can't recall his initials). He died shortly after (but I don't think it was the southern cooking!!)
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 06:24 AM
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RW Apple. Great writer. And a great "fresser," as we say in these parts! I will try to find that article that you mentioned, Gretchen. Thanks for that. I did read, with interest, the discussion here about Husk.

Edge is quite a legend and I have tremendous respect for him and his writings, and all the work he has done. Coincidentally, the daughter of a friend owns a couple of restaurants in Raleigh, and she has worked with him at Foodways events.

It appears that the writer of the posted link, Adam Platt, who is the New York Magazine restaurant critic (also brother of actor Oliver Platt) took the easy way out here but remember that he also had to orient toward his audience for this story, readers of Conde Nast Traveler.

If you know of any other articles that focus on lesser known and more accessible places to eat, please let me know..I'd love to read them!! Will see what else I can find by Edge at my library.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 06:27 AM
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ps. Any opinions on this book?

http://www.amazon.com/The-Southern-F...southern+belly
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 06:50 AM
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I have Edge's Southern Belly which is pretty old now--and some of THOSE places may have finally bit the dust. But it is the real deal--authentic old places.
We have several Diners Driveins and Dives in Charlotte that are definitely "in the southern groove".
I think Jane and Michael Stern's books are good sources. If you EVER have a chance to see them in person, DO NOT miss it. It is an hour and a half of pure delight.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 06:51 AM
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Oh, in my humble opinion, do not pay any attention to the Lee Brothers!! They are basically the carpetbaggers of southern cuisine--opportunists from NYC come to town!! LOL
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 06:52 AM
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What are the Raleigh restaurants, out of curiosity? Thanks.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 11:45 AM
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G: Her name is Ashley Christensen. She has one place named Poole's Diner and a fried chicken place named Beasley's. And I think a bar called Foxy's. I've never been to any of them, though.

And here I thought those Lee Brothers were the real deal! James Villas is a real southerner, but maybe his writing is dated by now..


I have the Stern's original book, at least I think I still have it, but I'm guessing that most of those places are long gone. I was so sure that I had read an autobiogrphy by them, but I cannot seem to find any mention of it online..am I getting confused? Thanks for the tip on seeing them in person..
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 11:59 AM
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It is my dream when I retire (or win the lottery) to offer a website rating the foods I like the most. I judge restaurants by: shrimp and grits, broiled or fried rainbow trout, chicken salad, palmento cheese and barbeque. I can't wait until restaurants get to post their ratings.
"I got three shrimp out of four. The only four shrimp establishments are within line of sight to the docks."
Oh, and my husband will rate iced tea.
"This robust blend of pekoe sweeted with cane sugar stands up to the BBQ ribs.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 12:23 PM
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Is palmento cheese a cross between pimento cheese and palmetto?
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 12:49 PM
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That would be a nice twist, heart of palm in a cheese spread but no I meant pimento.
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Old Nov 24th, 2012, 05:07 AM
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James Vilas is actually originally from Charlotte, and his mother lived here until she died a few years ago. I was listening to him on Lynn Rosetto Kasper one time and of all things, he said he had found THE epitome of the best sausage in the South--just the right amount of fat, spice, etc. It is sold just outside DH's hometown of Wadesboro!! And, Vilas is correct--delicious stuff.
Homemade pimento cheese--made with roasted red pepper and white Vermont cheddar!!
If anyone wants my BBQ (that's a NOUN) recipe, be glad to post it. Dead easy and delicious.
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Old Nov 24th, 2012, 07:43 AM
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Please post it!
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Old Nov 24th, 2012, 09:20 AM
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Carolina Pulled pork
I posted it a long time ago. It is truly easy and delicious.
1 pork shoulder or butt, bone in or out--any size--the cooking time is the same for a 3r 8# piece.
BBQ rub of your choice ) or just rub the meat with a mixture of coarse ground black pepper and brown sugar, kosher salt,smoked paprika. Let marinate 8 hours or overnight.
Method 1--IF you have a smoker that can control the temp (I have a sidebox smoker and can keep the temp at 200*-250*) smoke the meat for 4 hours, keeping the temp low. Then place the meat in a 250* oven for 4-5 hours to finish. It will be meltingly tender and have a wonderful smoky flavor. Internal temp should be 190*.
Method 2 (and this is the one I have really used for 30 years). Place the meat in a 250* oven for 8 hours uncovered . I have often done them overnight. It will still have the melting tenderness. You will have to slap your hands to have any left over as you take it out of the oven.
When ready to serve pull chunks of meat off and then "pull" the meat into shreds by pulling between 2 forks. Do not discard the fat--mix it in. This is not a low fat dish and to really enjoy, use it!!!
For a traditional Carolina serving method very lightly moisten the meat with sweetened vinegar (1 qt. vinegar + 1/4C sugar and 2TBS coarse black pepper).You should not even be able to tell there is any liquid on it.
To warm before serving put the vinegared meat in a pan (black iron frying pan is good or Le Creuset pot) and cover tightly. Heat at 250* until heated.
To serve, offer bbq sauces, cole slaw (in the Carolinas, it goes ON the sandwich), baked beans, rolls, and banana pudding. For fall bbq's Brunswick Stew is also offered.
For BBQ sauce here is my tomato based:
1 bottle ketchup (28 or 32 oz.)
1 ketchup bottle of cider vinegar
6 oz. yellow mustard
6 oz. worcestershire sauce
1/2C brown sugar
3 oz. liquid smoke or I now used hot or sweet smoked paprika
2-3 TBS coarse black pepper
Louisiana hot sauce to your taste
Simmer for 45 minutes.
If you use commercial bbq sauce I suggest diluting them 1/2 with vinegar for this use.
Eastern NC uses vinegar sauces--sweetened vinegar with 1/4C (at least!!) cayenne pepper OR black pepper. It is too hot for me!
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Old Nov 24th, 2012, 02:51 PM
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Bottled barbeque sauce???? ::runs down street screaming::
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Old Nov 24th, 2012, 03:17 PM
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BUT if they have to, dilute it. Do you do the mustard sauce? I actually have an acceptable (barely!!) recipe!! LOL
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