Cathedrals of Pizza - a NYC trip report
Mar 27th, 2008, 04:32 PM
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Cathedrals of Pizza - a NYC trip report
Thanks to anyone who has ever posted on this board about New York City. I read it all, made notes, had a great vacation. There is so much to see and do in New York City that I’m already making a list for the next visit. Seven days aren’t enough; more trips will be required.
Day One: The Metropolitan
It’s huge, everything I expected and more. IMO, the best strategy is to pick a favorite art and stick to that. Otherwise you’ll just have enough time to click your cell phone or camera at each piece you pass, which seems to be another popular strategy but not for us. We came for the art and weren’t disappointed. There were so many old favorites here plus, we discovered a couple of new favorite artists.
How had I ever missed Florine Stettheimer? I love her work. The Cathedrals of New York paintings were timeless. In them, she depicts the extravagant outflow of wealthy New York in colorful froth and puts herself in the paintings. This was her world and it’s easy to see that she loved it and even still sensed the absurdity of it.
Without recreating every glob and brushstroke, my favorites were: The afore mentioned Stettheimer, Stuart Davis (always) loved the fondant like layering on Report From Rockport, I like the positioning of the bold and sensible Charles Sheeler’s Golden Gate across from Davis’ riot of color. A nice collection of Modigliani. After the Classic Fantastic Art Nouveau we needed some lunch.
Following advice given in the U.S forum by Fra_Diavolo, we ate at the cafeteria downstairs. Thanks Fra. As promised, it had a good selection of hot and cold foods at a reasonable, considering that we didn’t leave the museum, price. I had a crispy fresh salad from the bar. I think the lunch ran somewhere around $26 for two.
We spent the rest of the afternoon with Degas’ pastel and charcoal and John Singer Sargent’s Madame X. We thought we’d get to the Cloisters in the afternoon but there will be a next time.
Day Two: The Cooper Hewitt Design Museum and The Cathedrals of Pizza Rococo- Continuing the Curve at the Cooper Hewitt. A friend of mine once observed that, “Rococo is for people who didn‘t do their own dusting.” That was true enough but that’s what museums are for also. It would have been a pleasure to dust and polish the little collection that the CH put together for this exhibition. There was something to represent each wave of Rococo throughout the years as it returned in it’s various incarnations.
The museum itself is a little gem and worth a couple of hours and $15. It’s part of the Smithsonian and housed in the Andrew Carnegie Mansion with much of the original interior paneling intact. Because it hosts the National Design Awards you’ll see the work of some current designers as well. For shoppers; they have an interesting gift shop.
It was well past lunch time when we left the Cooper Hewitt and my search for NY pizza needed to begin. I’ve lived in California all my life and have never met a New Yorker who hasn’t complained that pizza in California just isn’t as good as New York. No matter how high the cheese or thin the crust; in their taste buds, it’s still wanting.
This seemed like plain snobbery to me and then I had my first slice. It’s a shame really, pizza is now ruined for me until I can get back to NY. Well, maybe not completely ruined, I can still order Canadian bacon, artichoke heart and pineapple.
That first slice was at a place a block or two from the Cooper Hewitt, it could have been called Pintaile's, I was remiss in not taking note. It was heaven and every other slice I had after that was just as good. Over the next week, I’d subjected myself so many different pizzas, (sacrifices must be made), that eventually lost track of the pizza palaces. The only piece I had that bordered on inferior was a meat lover’s pizza- too much stuff. My conclusion is that there isn’t a bad pizza in NY; only poor choices. Keep it simple.
The system for finding great pizza was simple and one employed by travelers since before the internet sent us milling around, map in hand looking for obscure streets in cities we didn’t know. We simply got off the main tourist street, looked for a little hole in the wall with a door way crowded with locals.
What is it that makes NY pizza so good?
It’s not like the place has cornered the market on screaming hot ovens. But that must be part of it, because how else do you get a crust that could only be measured with calipers to be so crispy on the bottom and still doughy & bready tasting on the top? My theory is that the ovens may not ever loose all of their heat because to the density and brick of the buildings.
BTW, is it me or is the food in NYC served hotter than anywhere else? Apparently, if it doesn’t burn your mouth it isn’t worth it. No complaints, it was great to get tea, coffee, soup and pizza blazing hot, it gave me a moment to pause and be grateful for my taste buds before I scorched them.
Day One: The Metropolitan
It’s huge, everything I expected and more. IMO, the best strategy is to pick a favorite art and stick to that. Otherwise you’ll just have enough time to click your cell phone or camera at each piece you pass, which seems to be another popular strategy but not for us. We came for the art and weren’t disappointed. There were so many old favorites here plus, we discovered a couple of new favorite artists.
How had I ever missed Florine Stettheimer? I love her work. The Cathedrals of New York paintings were timeless. In them, she depicts the extravagant outflow of wealthy New York in colorful froth and puts herself in the paintings. This was her world and it’s easy to see that she loved it and even still sensed the absurdity of it.
Without recreating every glob and brushstroke, my favorites were: The afore mentioned Stettheimer, Stuart Davis (always) loved the fondant like layering on Report From Rockport, I like the positioning of the bold and sensible Charles Sheeler’s Golden Gate across from Davis’ riot of color. A nice collection of Modigliani. After the Classic Fantastic Art Nouveau we needed some lunch.
Following advice given in the U.S forum by Fra_Diavolo, we ate at the cafeteria downstairs. Thanks Fra. As promised, it had a good selection of hot and cold foods at a reasonable, considering that we didn’t leave the museum, price. I had a crispy fresh salad from the bar. I think the lunch ran somewhere around $26 for two.
We spent the rest of the afternoon with Degas’ pastel and charcoal and John Singer Sargent’s Madame X. We thought we’d get to the Cloisters in the afternoon but there will be a next time.
Day Two: The Cooper Hewitt Design Museum and The Cathedrals of Pizza Rococo- Continuing the Curve at the Cooper Hewitt. A friend of mine once observed that, “Rococo is for people who didn‘t do their own dusting.” That was true enough but that’s what museums are for also. It would have been a pleasure to dust and polish the little collection that the CH put together for this exhibition. There was something to represent each wave of Rococo throughout the years as it returned in it’s various incarnations.
The museum itself is a little gem and worth a couple of hours and $15. It’s part of the Smithsonian and housed in the Andrew Carnegie Mansion with much of the original interior paneling intact. Because it hosts the National Design Awards you’ll see the work of some current designers as well. For shoppers; they have an interesting gift shop.
It was well past lunch time when we left the Cooper Hewitt and my search for NY pizza needed to begin. I’ve lived in California all my life and have never met a New Yorker who hasn’t complained that pizza in California just isn’t as good as New York. No matter how high the cheese or thin the crust; in their taste buds, it’s still wanting.
This seemed like plain snobbery to me and then I had my first slice. It’s a shame really, pizza is now ruined for me until I can get back to NY. Well, maybe not completely ruined, I can still order Canadian bacon, artichoke heart and pineapple.
That first slice was at a place a block or two from the Cooper Hewitt, it could have been called Pintaile's, I was remiss in not taking note. It was heaven and every other slice I had after that was just as good. Over the next week, I’d subjected myself so many different pizzas, (sacrifices must be made), that eventually lost track of the pizza palaces. The only piece I had that bordered on inferior was a meat lover’s pizza- too much stuff. My conclusion is that there isn’t a bad pizza in NY; only poor choices. Keep it simple.
The system for finding great pizza was simple and one employed by travelers since before the internet sent us milling around, map in hand looking for obscure streets in cities we didn’t know. We simply got off the main tourist street, looked for a little hole in the wall with a door way crowded with locals.
What is it that makes NY pizza so good?
It’s not like the place has cornered the market on screaming hot ovens. But that must be part of it, because how else do you get a crust that could only be measured with calipers to be so crispy on the bottom and still doughy & bready tasting on the top? My theory is that the ovens may not ever loose all of their heat because to the density and brick of the buildings.
BTW, is it me or is the food in NYC served hotter than anywhere else? Apparently, if it doesn’t burn your mouth it isn’t worth it. No complaints, it was great to get tea, coffee, soup and pizza blazing hot, it gave me a moment to pause and be grateful for my taste buds before I scorched them.
Mar 28th, 2008, 05:32 AM
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It was indeed Pintaile's you visited, one of the better places. I think you never really appreciate NY pizza until you leave NYC. I spent 4 yrs. of college trying to teach the local pizza joint how to make pizza. I failed. 
Mar 28th, 2008, 06:05 AM
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It's funny that you mentioned the temerature. I can't get coffee hot enough. I didn't realize it was a side effect of growing up here! I've always heard it's the water too that makes pizza so good. But it must have something to do with technique. It's near impossible to get a good bagel in Manhattan, but much easier in Brooklyn and we definitely have the same water. I've also had good pizza outside of NY and I don't think they're importing the water. haha. One thing I've learned is that if I see a sign that says "NY style pizza" it will be anything but! Glad you had a great trip.
Mar 28th, 2008, 08:41 AM
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The poster who complained about the bad bagels in Manhattan, I am assuming, is speaking about the poor quality you get at deli or cart.
Ess-A-Bagel makes the best bagels
H & H maskes an excellent bagel as does David's.
Ess-A-Bagel makes the best bagels
H & H maskes an excellent bagel as does David's.
Mar 28th, 2008, 10:27 AM
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An article I found in the New York Times, called On the Water Front (2/18.07) said that NYC water comes through, “300 miles of tunnels and aqueducts and 6,000 miles of distribution mains.”
Is pizza just as good as you move upstate? And is the pizza in the places where the water is imported as good as the pizza in NY?
mclaurie- please solve a mystery for me. What is across the street from Pintaile’s? There’s a long line of people, the line moves consistently. I thought at first it was another pizza place, but no sign. Imagine my disappointment.
A food bank? No one carries anything out of the building. I ask a couple of the teenagers, they thought it was a religious organization- what? Blessings on the go?
Shadow, glad you’re liking the report. Eventually, I do other things besides art museums. More to come.
Is pizza just as good as you move upstate? And is the pizza in the places where the water is imported as good as the pizza in NY?
mclaurie- please solve a mystery for me. What is across the street from Pintaile’s? There’s a long line of people, the line moves consistently. I thought at first it was another pizza place, but no sign. Imagine my disappointment.
A food bank? No one carries anything out of the building. I ask a couple of the teenagers, they thought it was a religious organization- what? Blessings on the go?
Shadow, glad you’re liking the report. Eventually, I do other things besides art museums. More to come.
Mar 28th, 2008, 01:45 PM
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According to the Villager http://www.thevillager.com/villager_1...
“After meeting with several chefs, the consensus is the water. The mineral content of New York water, which comes from the Catskills has a unique effect on the rising and the flavor to the dough. “
Is the pizza in the Catskills just as good as in NYC? Or does it have something to do with going through all those miles of tunnels?
BTW, I’ll continue the trip report. Just talk around me J
Day Two The MOMA
This is a live re-cap of Art 101. Every great painting that was used to capture the imagination is here, it was great. Starry, Starry Night by Van Gogh, Claude Monet’s Water Lilies, and Mondrian’s Broadway Boogie Woogie. IMO, all paintings are better in real life but some are simply surprising. No matter how often Picasso’s- Les Demoiselles d’Avignon with it’s bevy of tribal faces and pointy breasts has been described in books, it’s domination of the entire room is so startling that it takes a while to realize that anything else is in the room.
Like the Met, there is so much in the MOMA that you almost have to live in New York to see it all and even then it should be an ever changing landscape. Lucky dogs! I do have one criticism of the MOMA. Way off in a corner there is a piece by the kinetic artist Jean Tinguely, it can easily be mistaken as a junk heap because it sits motionless and cast off by itself. It’s meant to move and make some noise. The plug has been severed, it turns out that it made too much noise and reverberated throughout the building. It would be nice if they would find a place for it, it’s like having a Lamborghini and letting it sit in the driveway. Just my opinion, but if I could be Fascist Queen of the World for a day, I’d give some grease and plug it in.
This museum took up a good part of the day and we spent the rest of the day poking around little shops, public spaces and general wandering. On one of these days my husband made the unimaginable suggestion that New York might offer a little more than just pizza. So, we did eat at other places. One of those was a delicatessen called Rosen’s. I had already found my slice of the day and was happy with a bowl of soup. DH ordered the Corned Beef Hash and it was really good. An extra large serving of diced corned beef (no potatoes) with 3 eggs.
On another day, we ended up at Burger Heaven. Chosen more for it’s proximity to a nice little public space than the prospect of their burgers. The space was a nice little meditative space off the hustling street, with a wall of water and some chairs, it would have been a great place to relax but it was March and just a little chilly.
Day Three: The Guggenheim, Whitney, Shopping, Chelsea and the Rubin
The Guggenheim offers a “pay what you wish day on Fridays“ during the evening and this would be the time to go to the Guggenheim now. This was the advice given to us by a friend and I will repeat it to anyone planning a visit while Cai Guo-Qiang’s I Want to Believe is showing. Personally, I wouldn’t wish to pay over $5 but we had bought the City Pass and the admission to the Guggenheim was included.
Cai and the Guggenheim deserve an E for effort but not for execution. It must have been difficult to suspend seven compact cars in the rotunda. It looks great in pictures but viewed in person from the ramp that helixes around the museum, it’s just poor workmanship. To represent an exploding car the artist used what looked like Christmas lights in a tube. The holes in the car for the tubes to come out of looked a half inch to big for the tube. Like I said, it looks great in photos. The show did get better but still- five bucks would be my limit!
Pizza - white slice at Don Filipo’s. Since there were a couple of New York’s Finest eating in here, not investigating it looked like a good bet, it was.
The Whitney:
Ah, this was more like it. The building itself is a promise of great art to come. From a distance it a big block of dark granite with trapezoid windows, as I got closer I noticed that the big blocks overhang a courtyard in front of the museum. We arrived just as the museum opened at 1 on a Friday, there was a long line that moved quickly. We started on the top floor to avoid the crowds. There is an elevator but the stairs were just more interesting. This is a 40 year old building designed in 1966 by Marcel Breuer and it looks very current but there is a medieval feel in the details of the concrete work of the stairway, by taking the stairs we were rewarded with miniature cities tucked if you don’t take the stairs you miss a small piece
There was a small exhibition of Charles Demuth, Chimney’s and Towers. I’ve never really thought of him much beyond the big gold 5, it’s nice to know he’s more than just a number.
The Whitney is famous for their Edward Hopper collection and was looking forward to them. Most were out on loan, darn! Fortunately, I have a fickle nature and soon forgot all about Hopper when I hit a roomful of work by Alexander Calder. Known best for his mobiles, he did some remarkable things with just wire, a circus scenes comes alive under his hand and the Whitney has a few of his more interesting “stabiles” on display, as well as his mobiles.
This is a smaller museum and we spent only two hours there, we had plenty of time before getting together with our friends.
We took the subway to Grand Central Station, it’s beautiful. They have reliably clean bathrooms and a little market upstairs. I found that I liked cruising through little NY delis as much as I enjoyed the pizza and art. They smell like all the elements of a really good sandwich, plus the extra aroma of a whole lot of different cheeses, not laid out neatly with an eye to attract like the cheese shops and charcuterie of Paris but all jumbled together and ready to do some business. We took a spin through the food court at Grand Central. I’m sure it was all good, the prices, (not surprisingly, seemed a little higher) but it was all just a little too pristine to really entice me.
We made the requisite visit to the Flatiron Building and getting a little lost along the way, when I asked a woman where it was, she didn’t know. I described it to her and as she pointed me in the right direction said, “so that’s what that’s called”. I made a note to read a San Diego guide book sometime to find out what I’m missing in my own city. But NYC is so big, you’d need to be active there for 80 years to know it all.
Not far from the Flatiron is a little store I’d read about on Fodors, a nod of thanks goes out. Fishs Eddy was just great. I needed some new glasses and this was the perfect place to get them. Had I room in my cupboards, I would have been tempted to buy some dishes. The clerk assured me that their products were made in the US with recycled dishes from hotels. The result is great and unique.
The “Floor Plan” set is a very cool set of black and white square dishes with, you know, floor plans of NY living areas on them. The smaller dishes have studios, some have railroad duplexes etc.
After shopping, we walked up to Union Square and by the time we spotted the Heartland Brewery we were ready for a good beer. By the time we left, we were still ready for a good beer and we ordered a sampler of a few different types. Some were more drinkable than others. None, were truly spectacular.
Brooklyn Lager turned out to be tasty, rich but not too heavy with a good flavor.
The Rubin Museum of Art
Here’s one of those wonderful, “off the beaten path” gems. Free on Friday nights and so well put together that if you love ancient Himalayan art, this place is for you. Even if you don’t, the presentation is geared that when you leave the Rubin, you will understand it. Very well worth the $10 admission. The building itself is a beautiful thing. There is a café on the first floor, great music, plus on Friday nights they offer Asian tapas with specialty cocktails, and a 2 for 1 drink special from 6-7 pm. Definitely plan a visit for a Friday if you’re looking for something a little different and fun. www.rmanyc.org
We didn’t eat at the café because we had already eaten at an Italian place in Chelsea. The Rubin is very close to the new Frank Gehrey building. BTW this is a nice building. A little more structured than most of his work, at night the white glass he used is almost invisible but in the day time it looked like milk glass.
“After meeting with several chefs, the consensus is the water. The mineral content of New York water, which comes from the Catskills has a unique effect on the rising and the flavor to the dough. “
Is the pizza in the Catskills just as good as in NYC? Or does it have something to do with going through all those miles of tunnels?
BTW, I’ll continue the trip report. Just talk around me J
Day Two The MOMA
This is a live re-cap of Art 101. Every great painting that was used to capture the imagination is here, it was great. Starry, Starry Night by Van Gogh, Claude Monet’s Water Lilies, and Mondrian’s Broadway Boogie Woogie. IMO, all paintings are better in real life but some are simply surprising. No matter how often Picasso’s- Les Demoiselles d’Avignon with it’s bevy of tribal faces and pointy breasts has been described in books, it’s domination of the entire room is so startling that it takes a while to realize that anything else is in the room.
Like the Met, there is so much in the MOMA that you almost have to live in New York to see it all and even then it should be an ever changing landscape. Lucky dogs! I do have one criticism of the MOMA. Way off in a corner there is a piece by the kinetic artist Jean Tinguely, it can easily be mistaken as a junk heap because it sits motionless and cast off by itself. It’s meant to move and make some noise. The plug has been severed, it turns out that it made too much noise and reverberated throughout the building. It would be nice if they would find a place for it, it’s like having a Lamborghini and letting it sit in the driveway. Just my opinion, but if I could be Fascist Queen of the World for a day, I’d give some grease and plug it in.
This museum took up a good part of the day and we spent the rest of the day poking around little shops, public spaces and general wandering. On one of these days my husband made the unimaginable suggestion that New York might offer a little more than just pizza. So, we did eat at other places. One of those was a delicatessen called Rosen’s. I had already found my slice of the day and was happy with a bowl of soup. DH ordered the Corned Beef Hash and it was really good. An extra large serving of diced corned beef (no potatoes) with 3 eggs.
On another day, we ended up at Burger Heaven. Chosen more for it’s proximity to a nice little public space than the prospect of their burgers. The space was a nice little meditative space off the hustling street, with a wall of water and some chairs, it would have been a great place to relax but it was March and just a little chilly.
Day Three: The Guggenheim, Whitney, Shopping, Chelsea and the Rubin
The Guggenheim offers a “pay what you wish day on Fridays“ during the evening and this would be the time to go to the Guggenheim now. This was the advice given to us by a friend and I will repeat it to anyone planning a visit while Cai Guo-Qiang’s I Want to Believe is showing. Personally, I wouldn’t wish to pay over $5 but we had bought the City Pass and the admission to the Guggenheim was included.
Cai and the Guggenheim deserve an E for effort but not for execution. It must have been difficult to suspend seven compact cars in the rotunda. It looks great in pictures but viewed in person from the ramp that helixes around the museum, it’s just poor workmanship. To represent an exploding car the artist used what looked like Christmas lights in a tube. The holes in the car for the tubes to come out of looked a half inch to big for the tube. Like I said, it looks great in photos. The show did get better but still- five bucks would be my limit!
Pizza - white slice at Don Filipo’s. Since there were a couple of New York’s Finest eating in here, not investigating it looked like a good bet, it was.
The Whitney:
Ah, this was more like it. The building itself is a promise of great art to come. From a distance it a big block of dark granite with trapezoid windows, as I got closer I noticed that the big blocks overhang a courtyard in front of the museum. We arrived just as the museum opened at 1 on a Friday, there was a long line that moved quickly. We started on the top floor to avoid the crowds. There is an elevator but the stairs were just more interesting. This is a 40 year old building designed in 1966 by Marcel Breuer and it looks very current but there is a medieval feel in the details of the concrete work of the stairway, by taking the stairs we were rewarded with miniature cities tucked if you don’t take the stairs you miss a small piece
There was a small exhibition of Charles Demuth, Chimney’s and Towers. I’ve never really thought of him much beyond the big gold 5, it’s nice to know he’s more than just a number.
The Whitney is famous for their Edward Hopper collection and was looking forward to them. Most were out on loan, darn! Fortunately, I have a fickle nature and soon forgot all about Hopper when I hit a roomful of work by Alexander Calder. Known best for his mobiles, he did some remarkable things with just wire, a circus scenes comes alive under his hand and the Whitney has a few of his more interesting “stabiles” on display, as well as his mobiles.
This is a smaller museum and we spent only two hours there, we had plenty of time before getting together with our friends.
We took the subway to Grand Central Station, it’s beautiful. They have reliably clean bathrooms and a little market upstairs. I found that I liked cruising through little NY delis as much as I enjoyed the pizza and art. They smell like all the elements of a really good sandwich, plus the extra aroma of a whole lot of different cheeses, not laid out neatly with an eye to attract like the cheese shops and charcuterie of Paris but all jumbled together and ready to do some business. We took a spin through the food court at Grand Central. I’m sure it was all good, the prices, (not surprisingly, seemed a little higher) but it was all just a little too pristine to really entice me.
We made the requisite visit to the Flatiron Building and getting a little lost along the way, when I asked a woman where it was, she didn’t know. I described it to her and as she pointed me in the right direction said, “so that’s what that’s called”. I made a note to read a San Diego guide book sometime to find out what I’m missing in my own city. But NYC is so big, you’d need to be active there for 80 years to know it all.
Not far from the Flatiron is a little store I’d read about on Fodors, a nod of thanks goes out. Fishs Eddy was just great. I needed some new glasses and this was the perfect place to get them. Had I room in my cupboards, I would have been tempted to buy some dishes. The clerk assured me that their products were made in the US with recycled dishes from hotels. The result is great and unique.
The “Floor Plan” set is a very cool set of black and white square dishes with, you know, floor plans of NY living areas on them. The smaller dishes have studios, some have railroad duplexes etc.
After shopping, we walked up to Union Square and by the time we spotted the Heartland Brewery we were ready for a good beer. By the time we left, we were still ready for a good beer and we ordered a sampler of a few different types. Some were more drinkable than others. None, were truly spectacular.
Brooklyn Lager turned out to be tasty, rich but not too heavy with a good flavor.
The Rubin Museum of Art
Here’s one of those wonderful, “off the beaten path” gems. Free on Friday nights and so well put together that if you love ancient Himalayan art, this place is for you. Even if you don’t, the presentation is geared that when you leave the Rubin, you will understand it. Very well worth the $10 admission. The building itself is a beautiful thing. There is a café on the first floor, great music, plus on Friday nights they offer Asian tapas with specialty cocktails, and a 2 for 1 drink special from 6-7 pm. Definitely plan a visit for a Friday if you’re looking for something a little different and fun. www.rmanyc.org
We didn’t eat at the café because we had already eaten at an Italian place in Chelsea. The Rubin is very close to the new Frank Gehrey building. BTW this is a nice building. A little more structured than most of his work, at night the white glass he used is almost invisible but in the day time it looked like milk glass.
Mar 29th, 2008, 07:47 AM
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We stayed in Queens at hotel d'sister's house. The accommodations were comfy and the rates couldn't be beat 
Thank you Sandy and KT - glad you're enjoying it. While writing this I've gained a new respect for people who regularly post trip reports.
Thank you Sandy and KT - glad you're enjoying it. While writing this I've gained a new respect for people who regularly post trip reports.
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