sjk

Hi all. I'm looking for some suggestions for hiking around the Big Sur area. My boyfriend lives in the Bay area now and I'm visiting for the weekend of the 4th of July. We've taken day trips to Monterey and Carmel on previous visits and this time I wanted to farther south. I always want to see it all, but realizing that's not possible in a day trip, I'd like some help with narrowing things down. We want to spend our time outdoors and enjoy hiking and the beach. I have seen lots of pictures of Bixby bridge and I'd like to see it for myself. I'm also an avid photographer and I can get lost for hours anywhere in the bay area. Any suggestions for a day trip that hits the "highlights"? Also any recommendations on books that we could get as reference for hikes? In reading through posts and doing some research, there are lots of state parks in the area but I'm not sure how to narrow any down. Sounds like Point Lobos has some easy loops that we could hike and so does JFBurns state park. Do these parks charge admission and is there a day pass for all in the area? We've driven Highway 1 on weekends before but never on a holiday weekend in the summer - is traffic in this part going to be a factor? Thanks in advance for all your help.

JBC411

Type in the name "easytraveler" in the search box in this forum, and at or near the top of the list of her posts which will come up on the left will be one called "Hiiking the Big Sur State Parks--A Trip Report," and it will be just what you're asking for. It will be at or near the top because I topped it just last week for someone else. I seem to be making a career of topping or recommending this thread, but I see this question asked so often.

By the way, I mispelled "hiking" above because easytraveler did in her title--I finally figured out why several people I sent to search for it by title never could come up with it.

lmavolio

I haven't been yet, but I am leaving soon. I've done a lot of research and it seems some of the good spots are:
Point Lobos - MUST DO!!
Andrew Molera Beach
Pfeiffer Beach
McWay Falls at Julia Pfeiffer State Park
Sand Dollar Beach
These are the places I plan to stop, as well as some of the turnouts just off the parkway. Of course, it seems like you have to do drinks or lunch at Nepenthe or Cielo. I plan to do drinks at Nepenthe and lunch at Cielo which seems like it has better food. Have fun...I'll post a trip report when I'm back.

picard8427

ok, I feel like a total idiot for asking..but I'm looking for that link recommended here for easytraveler's trip post. I typed in the name in search box, and scroll thru about 150 threads and don't see any that are title "hiiking trip report " or anything close...Help ;-(

JBC411

picard, I didn't think to specify that after typing the name in the search box, you must click on the orange "Search" box to the right before the correct list of posts will come up. I just did this, and the "Hiiking the Big Sur State Parks--A Trip Report" thread still was #1.

fehgeddaboudit

Can you do it again and add a post to bring the thread to the top? Search is dry when I try.

JBC411

OK--topped it again!
Clicking on my screen name is another way to get to it.

picard8427

Hm, I did click the orange button, and no luck. I did select the California section, and didn't help. BUt wheh I clicked on your screen name it worked, so thanks, but still doesn't solve the mystery ;-(

picard8427

Bugging the heck out of me why I couldn't find it...finally...search using the exact spelling of "hikiing"...your previous posts had "hikking" or "hiiking", none of which turned up the needed thread. ;-)

So now that the mystery is solved, time for my own question to the experts here:

Debating whether on using up 2 or 3 days of my time there to do the following:

Start in SF, want to see Carmel, Big Sur (and all its' splendor..not a big hiking person, so maybe just 1-2 easy trails that provides the highlight of the scenery), and end in Hearst Castle (and take a tour there of course) before heading back up to SF (using 101, not the coast again). I've done bits and pieces of Monterey/17 Mile drive already, so no need for repeat, especially from what I've read here about skipping it if doing Big Sur.

So is it doable in 2 days, leaving me more time in SF for shopping etc? And how long is the drive "home" to SF straight from Hearst Castle with maybe 1-2 bathroom/food stop? Suggestions on how to divide things up GREATLY appreciated.

JBC411

Mystery solved, but not exactly as you thought, picard. While you're correct that I didn't have easytraveler's misspelling "right," this would only have affected searches done with the thread title. It sounds like you were placing BOTH easytraveler's name and the thread title in the search box, when in fact, one searches on one or the other. All that was necessary to bring the thread up was to type her name in the box, click on the word "Search" outlined in orange, and the thread would appear as #1 on the list to the left (because I had topped it last week.) If you were typing in any variation of the word "hiking," you were not following these directions. Perhaps I erred by even mentioning that some people had tried to search by thread title in the past and clearly had been unsuccessful due to the misspelling, since that fact was irrelevant to the current instructions I was giving.

I hope, picard, that this clarification helpps you get more benefit from the search function--it's a powerful tool. And I hope (and know) you will find your time in Big Sur memeorable.

picard8427

I did exactly what you suggested first, type in "easytraeler" in the search box, and clicked the organge button, with or without highlighting the California selection. It turned up many threads, and scrolling thru 150 of them didn't turn up the right one..but since you've bumped it up today, doing the same thing turned it up as #1...So it's now a moot point, but thanks for helping regardless.

Now can I please have everyone's expert opinion on my trip plans...2 vs 3 days etc?! Thanks again.

JBC411

picard, my bumping it up last night didn't change anything, since it has been #1 on easytraveler's list ever since I bumped it up for someone else last week. easytraveler must be off traveling, since she has not posted in any other thread recently. Just before bumping it up last night I checked it again, as I have before each of my replies on this thread, and it was still sitting there at #1 as it has been every time I have looked in the past week. Last night's bump just changed the date of last activity shown for it.

So, if earlier we followed the same steps and it appeared for me but not for you, that's a mystery. People have reported more strange things than usual happening on the board recently.

I think your plans are doable in 2 days. You can make a meaningful visit to Big Sur in one day, even as a round trip from S.F., and I did so several times when I lived in S.F., so if you were to end your day somewhere around Hearst Castle it would be that much easier. Obviously two days would be better than one, you will be able to hike more, see more and get in the mood more, but you will have to weigh the advantages of that over missing a day in S.F. But one day in Big Sur is infinitely better than none.

I definitely think Hearst Castle is worth visiting, even with limited time, and you can see the Castle and get "home" to S.F. in one more day, but it will consume all of that day. Stay the night before near the castle and start your tours in the morning. I cannot emphasize too strongly that you should make Castle tour reservations well in advance of the day you are there, and by all means don't depend on being able to get a tour the same morning or even the same day you arrive there. People are often shut out who try that. And without being on a tour, you will get nowhere near the Castle and it will not be worth going there. Check this link for online or phone reservations: http://www.hearstcastle.org/tours/ticket_info.asp
I recommend you take more than one tour, ideally #1 and #2 as a start. #1 is recommended as the first tour to take, but while I agree that's best, it's not really necessary to take them in order. If you can get a #2 earlier in the morning than a #1, I wouldn't hesitate to go for them in that order, for instance. Two tours will consume your morning and possibly some of your early afternoon.

While 101 is unquestionably the faster route north to S.F. from San Luis Obispo and points south, from the castle you have to go far enough out of your way to get to it that I question whether it is any faster than taking Hwy. 1 back to Monterey. Curious, I checked MapQuest.com and found they consider the fastest route from the Castle to S.F. to be via Hwy. 1. They estimate 3 hours 50 minutes to S.F., so five hours with the stops you're planning should do it. Scenically, I'd favor HWY.1 in the opposite direction than taken the day before over a first drive of that stretch of 101 any time.

AprilinParis

Garrapata -
We still have photos on our walls from the hikes we did here years ago - we were there in June but with our bizarre late rains this year, there may still be flowers when you are there in July - there are actually trails on both sides of the road way at this park.
"Garrapata State Park offers some of Big Sur's most striking coastline--hidden beaches, rocky coves and bluffs carpeted with native wildflowers and introduced ice plant. Another lure is wonderful wildlife-watching: Sea otters and sea lions bask on Lobos Rocks just offshore. Sea birds, such as oyster catchers and cormorants glide over the waves. Garrapata's bluffs are excellent vantage points from which to observe California gray whales on their annual winter migration.

Garrapata Beach
A splendid half-mile long sand strand accessible by a short quarter-mile long trail. While the clear, blue-green water surging ashore can be positively hypnotic, be extra cautious on Garrapata's sandy shores and rocky points. The coast here is known for its "rogue" waves--ocean swells that have swept the unwary off their feet, and in some cases to their deaths. Access to Garrapata State Park's signed "Gate 32 is a short ways south of the Soberanes Pioint turnout" This info is from: http://www.thetrailmaster.com/HikingBigSurCoast.html

picard8427

Thanks very much JBC411 for the info. I'm a bit confused though. From my readings of some of the posts here (and haven't read them all yet), it will take me about 2-2.5 hrs to drive from SF to Monterey, then about 1/2 hr from Monterey to Carmel, and another 1 hr from Carmel to Big Sur (given the slower speed and curvy road), and another 1hr or more from Big Sur to Hearst Castle (all without stops/sightseeing on the way). So how come Mapquest had the return time as only 4 hrs?? IN your experience, are those time estimates accurate (or anywhere close?!)

My rough draft plan now is as follows:

Leave SF in the morning after rush hour (like 9am), get to Monterey and have lunch..very quick walk around. Drive to Carmel, enjoy a tour of the Beach/whatever else I learn from here, then off the Big Sur in mid afternoon and maybe do 1 hike at one of the parks, 2 depending on time. Stay somewhere in Big Sur overnight,and have a great dinner at somewhere with view and ambiance. Next am either do anther hike, or drive straight to Hearst Castle, do the tour (or tours), eat, and drive back to SF. How does that sound to you (or anyone else wanting to chime in)? Suggestions for improvements are very welcome ;-)

JBC411

On the driving times, picard, I think what you don't yet know is that Monterey and Carmel, which are right next to each other, are both skirted by Highway One, which doesn't really go through either one. You have to leave the highway for some distance to see either town. So while you could spend 1/2 hour going from a point in Carmel to a point in Monterey, if traffic is moving well on Hwy. One you can zip by all the exits for both towns in the space of about 10 minutes on your way between Big Sur and S.F.

MapQuest figures an hour and twenty minutes between the Castle and Big Sur village (the village is north of most of the slowest Big Sur driving,) 35 minutes between the village and Carmel, and two hours between Carmel and S.F. I'd say a little too optimistic on all three stretches, but not really grossly so unless you run into an unusual problem. Assuming you have done most of your sightseeing on the way down, do not plan on a full meal on the way, just on a rest stop or two, five hours is not unrealistic. If you can, though, I'd give yourself six or seven and allow yourselves more short hiking or sightseeing stops, and a meal.

The trouble with 101 is that when you are at the castle, to get to it you would want to drive staight east to Paso Robles. Unfortunately there is a rugged mountain range with no roads through it in the way. (Makes for good views from the Castle, though.) So to join 101 at Paso Robles you have to go way out of your way to the south and east over roads which aren't particularly fast. Mapquest says 45 minutes from the Castle to 101, then 3 hours and 20 minutes from that point to S.F., giving the Hwy One route about a quarter of an hour's advantage overall. My own guess is that you would get to S.F. a little faster using 101, mainly because you will be less tempted to stop and linger along the way then because of any big difference in the basic drive time. However, that stretch of 101 is really boring, and I'd use One as the more interesting drive, even if I had taken it the opposite direction the day before.

On your proposed itinerary--I would pick up the pace of your first day to give yourself more time in Big Sur. Time it out more as Easytraveler did. Start very early from S.F. No reason to wait for the commute rush to be over to get out of S.F., everyone will be going in the opposite direction. Take 280 and 17 to 1 at Santa Cruz or 1 all the way, instead of 101, to avoid the worst od the San Jose rush. Drive right by Monterey. Less interesting than its neighbors, its Wharf and Cannery Row are just tourist traps, with only two days in the area nothing of high enough priority there to see. Turn on Carmel's Ocean Avenue exit and drive all the way down to Carmel Beach. It is beautiful. On the way back, park in downtown Carmel and walk a little on Ocean Ave. and the side streets to get a feel for the place. With your time constraints and interest in hiking, a little over an hour in Carmel should be enough. Point Lobos is just 5 min. south of Carmel and, like easytraveller, you should get there well before noon. Spend 1-2 hrs. hiking there. Then drive to Ventana Inn, a little south of Big Sur village (you'll be stopping at turnouts along the way) and have lunch on the outside terrace of their restaurant Cielo, unless it's fabulous view is socked in by fog, in which case you should go slightly further down the road and have lunch at Nepenthe--not at the main restaurant eating grossly overpriced tourist fare, but at their outdoor terrace cafe, Cafe Kevah, with a menu which is both less expensive and more interesting. Even if you have had lunch at Cielo, stop at Nepenthe and see their view too. The two restaurants are at far different elevations, and their views are quite different, although both world-class. There's a very interesting store at Nepenthe, also.

By this point it will still be fairly early afternoon, and you will have plenty of daylight time left for several hikes, as easytraveler did. If you stay the night in Big Sur, don't choose either the River Inn or Fernwood. With Hearst Castle planned for the next day, I would tend to advise you to push on and stay near the Castle. If you do stay in Big Sur, be sure to allow yourself lots of time to get to the Castle in the morning--I would book my first tour around noon, and just reconcile myself to getting back to S.F. quite late.

picard8427

Thanks again JBC for the detail response...I think I like the idea of bypassing Monterey to save time, especially since I've been to the aquarium and part of 17 Mile drive already. I think for this trip since time is an issue I'll limit to max 2 hikes in Big Sur, and also judging then based on time.

I'm not sure I can follow easytraveler's plan of being up and ready to go by 630am...I'm on vacation afterall and need my coffee in the morning. He got to Carmel by 730am..so I'm assuming he didn't start from SF??

If I do push past Big Sur on the first night, where would you recommend we stay so that we are closer to the castle for the next morning? We are not fussy for one night, clean, big comfy bed, private bathroom, quiet room will do (a fireplace wouldn't hurt). No need for fancy 4 stars or anything. Also, are there sites where I can download maps of the highways etc..I can be directionally challenged at times ;-)

JBC411

picard, too bad easytraveler is not around to be amused that you guess she's a male, probably because of all the clambering around in that Limekiln hike she describes, and because she strikes out for places alone. Actually, rather than a brawny young male mountain man, she's a little retired Asian lady. I wish I had both her agility and her writing ability.

You are right that she lives closer to Carmel than S.F.--she's near San Jose. So she did have at least an hour's drive to Carmel. If she can get to Carmel by 7:30, you can get there by 9, which is all I "expect."

When I have gone to Hearst Castle from the north, I have most often stayed in Big Sur, where my favorites are Deetjen's Big Sur Inn, the riverside cabins at Ripplewood Resort, and the A-frame cabins at Big Sur Campground and Cabins. All rustic, the last, surprisingly, the least rustic, but all very Big Sur unique. Deetjen's is in a class by itself for uniqueness--see its reviews in Tripadvisor.com:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...alifornia.html.
and its own web site which has some info and links on the area which might be useful to you even if you don't stay there:
http://www.deetjens.com

The Glen Oaks is a nice conventional motel (which is good because it is also Big Sur's ONLY conventional motel, unless you count the River Inn and Fernwood as remaining examples of conventional motels of the Depression.)

The only place really near the castle I have stayed at is VERY near the castle--3 miles--The Best Western Cavalier in San Simeon, a town which is basically a collection of tourist services near the Castle entrance. Here is a link to their web site:

http://www.cavalierresort.com/

A lot of their rooms do have fireplaces. It's an older motel (I first went there many years ago) gradually being converted to a more upscale sort of place, and there's a wide variety of rates and recency of renovation in their rooms. But genuine oceanfront lodging is surprisingly rare in California, and this is one of the few examples. The best rooms, the Terrace, are right on top of the surf, and are also the most recently renovated. They're expensive, but a thrill if you want to sleep genuinely right on the Pacific Edge. Other rooms are unrenovated, comfortably worn and much less expensive. At sunset, they build bonfires on the beach for the guests to gather round. Here's their Tripadvisor reviews:

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...alifornia.html

They're the #1 rated choice in San Simeon on Tripadvisor but also overall the most expensive. There are a number of less expensive nearby choices, none of which I have personal experience with, but here's the Tripadvisor reviews with contact info and for many, links to check availability:

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-g3...ia-Hotels.html

The other town servicing the Castle is Cambria. I will leave it to others to recommend lodgings to you there. As for me, I agree with the second Tripadvisor review of the Cavalier above, which called Cambria "a crowded tourist trap with country chic stores." For me, its just basically another watering hole for Castle visitors, like San Simeon, but which is trying to be a Carmel imitation (unsuccessfully.) But there are plenty on this forum who like it and who even consider it a destination in itself. I can't see that, and avoid the place. Also, it gets traffic jams which can really add to your drive times. Its another town the highway doesn't really go through, you have to turn off for it, so you can avoid it.

Mapquest is the best source I know of for maps and directions you can print out. But I think you will want to get at least a California map from a convenience store or gas station once you're there.

picard8427

Ooops...sorry and apologies to Easytraveler ;-)

Thanks again for the wonderful details. I've done some brief scanning of the various sites (I love tripadvisor) for hotels, and the only thing I didn't like about what I read of Deetjen's Inn was how thin the walls were...and how bathrooms are across the hall. I realized it's only for one night, but I'm someone who's been spoiled by incredible bargains over the years on Priceline in numerous US/Canada/European cities. Maybe I'll give the Inn a call directly and inquire whether there are rooms that fit my bill (literally and figuratively). I'll also chcek on the Best Western.

Thanks again for your help. As my trip gets closer and I've done more reading, I'll likely need to come back for more advise...

Lovejoy

JBC411
When you past very long URL's on this forum it screws up the format.
You can make them shorter at a web site called TinyURL.com.
so that this;
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...alifornia.html
Becomes this;
http://tinyurl.com/7or2o

JBC411

picard, staying in a rustic cabin in Big Sur is equivalent to staying in a tented camp in the Serengeti. One does it beause it fits the history and unique atmosphere of the place, rather than that it has the creature comforts that the Hilton Garden Inn Ngorongoro Crater might have.

One does it in Big Sur ecause....Henry Miller lived in one. Or maybe because one wants to be as close to nature as they can but actual campming is too uncomfortable.

So the feeling of wanting to do this thing in this place either grabs you or it doesn't. If it doesn't, and Post Ranch Inn and Ventana Inn aren't in the budget, then it is a better choice to stay in Carmel or near the castle, as there is basically nothing in Big Sur that provides the level of creature comfort for moderate bucks that you can find most other places.

Most units at Deetjen's do have private baths directly accessible from the bedrooms. There are also some detached cabins where soundproofing is not an issue. I think the same is true of most of the cabins at the Big Sur Lodge (the State Park lodge.)

The cabins at Ripplewood Resort and Big Sur Campground and Cabins (a private property, not to be confused with the Big Sur State Park) are detached and are the best secret in Big Sur in my opinion.

Deetjen's is oriented towards renting individual units rather than just space, and will discuss the chracteristics of individual rooms in detail with you. So far as the thinness of walls (and floors) in most units there is concerned, I've never been bothered by anything unwelcome, even despite having been under the notorious Chateau Fiasco once. Maybe people have read poetry, or from the famous Deetjen's guest journals, aloud a little later than I would have chosen, but they did so in muted tones. Deetjen's guests tend to self-select, I think, mostly into adults who are pretty quiet except when making love, and are glad to hear that others are making love. But even that you are more likely to read about in the guest journals.