Trip Report - 6 Days in the NOA
Mar 6th, 2010, 12:56 PM
#1
Original Poster
Trip Report - 6 Days in the NOA
THANK YOU to Giena, David Salta and to the posters, DL, Crelleston and others for allowing us to plan and enjoy a wonderful trip to the Northwest. Giena is correct - "you will not regret !" The only regret is not having another 2 weeks to explore this territory. The drives north and south of Salta were through some of the most breathtaking mountain passes and scenery I have ever seen.
We were all enthralled (and in 2 languages !)
We flew on LAN from BsAS, and as with our previous experiences, the trip was smooth and without a hitch - likewise for our dear friends from France whom we met in Salta on their return from Iguazzu on Lan (Why not directly on Andes ? long French story, but another time).
We met at HOTEL BALCARCE : This small, immaculate hotel, decorated with local crafts, was located on the main restaurant/peña street, just right for meandering. The bedrooms were small (little place to unpack) but quiet with very good beds, air-conditioners, TVs and excellent bathrooms. The price was good @ US$85.00 with a fine breakfast. At least one person on the staff spoke English at any time, and they were all delightful and helpful. I was charmed.
The next morning we were met by our guide, Karina, who was arranged for us by Giena (Gracias, again). Karina spoke good French and fairly good English, and she was knowledgeable about the area we were to explore with her: Purmamarca/Tilcara/Humahuaca. Karina was an excellent driver (no small thing here). The only negative was that she never asked us our preferences and seemed a bit put out when we tried to express them. So that we went to Tilcara en route to Purmamarca to our hotel (not a great move for adjusting to the altitude before heading up to the salt flats ) and twice to Yacon Restaurant (we loved Yacon, but would have preferred to have had a simple empanada lunch and save the time the 2nd day - but no consultation).
We stayed at HOTEL/Spa CASA de ADOBE. It was just lovely. There was no English spoken here, or French, but the concierge and staff were so engaging and so helpful that our pathetic Castillano con sign language was more than sufficient. The hotel is surrounded by the gorgeous mountains and is itself a part of the scenery. It looks exactly like the Web-photos and is beautifully appointed and lovely. The pool was clean and the breakfast very good - they have a fine restaurant here. We walked to the market in town and back. So nice with the beauty of the multicolored mts. all around. www.casadeadobe.com/ar/pictures.htm#1
I have been to so many SALT FLATS in France etc. that while I was impressed, I was not bowled over by the flats (perhaps I was jaded as I was suffering a bit from the altitude - so 'a grain of salt' ) The archeological site of Pucara de Ticara, was very interesting as were the markets and town squares in this region. And of course, those empanadas. And everywhere you turn - natural beauty - sigh ! Peaceful and lovely - even amidst the joyful celebrations of Pachamama ! And the histories and culture of the indigenous groups were fascinating.
Our second night in Salta we stayed at PARADOR EL LAGAR (thank you Punta Lugano) a magnificent mansion turned into an elegant B&B. The furnishings, the garden, the rooms the breakfast - all wonderfully appointed, comfortable and Très Elegant !
PEÑAS: on each of the 2 nights we spent in Salta, we went to Peñas - enticed into one just strolling by - hearing the appealing folk tunes and smelling those wonderful empanada aromas - and the second (among my best loved nights in NOA) by a local's recommendation.
CAR RENTAL for the trip to CAFAYATE was smooth as silk. I had written to El Lagar for a recommendation, and was put in touch with Federico Ochoa at Marina Turismo - he delivered the car as arranged - in excellent condition- and we dropped it to him at the Salta Airport several days later. www.marina-semisa.com.ar
The DRIVE to CAFAYATE was spectacular - others have written about this, and I will not try to compete or repeat, but AWSOME! It made me wish I had my mother's artistic talent.
We stayed in HOTEL KILLA, which was delightful, as others have noted, including the pool and the gardens. The staff port your luggage, but it is well to be aware that there are stairs and no elevator.
We loved the town, the square, the small Cathedral, the Nanni Wine tasting right in town. The drives to other wineries would be very easy (remember, we were with French folks from the Loire Valley - not a unique experience for them, so we limited this - but they loved Nanni and tasting all the Malbecs, Torrontes and other wonderful brews in the region and the country).
We were there during the SERENATA a CAFAYATE – Apparently, Serenata is not etymologically connected to serene. The very loud music went on from about 11:00 PM until 7:00 AM. Our room was quiet, but our friends had the concert for free both nights. Apparently the 2nd night was less electronic, and they could easily sleep. The folks in Killa and others in cafayate apologized to us, but it was not really a serious problem, and did not interfere with our having charming walks and wonderful meals. We enjoyed the Museum of Pachamama, which we found interesting, and well done, but having been to Barcelona, not a 'must see'.
RESTAURANTS: The small, cozy restaurant COLORADO is owned by an American couple - the food is excellent. On the square, where we had diner, Al Fresco, each night, were several good restaurants; we selected them by the French guide books (pretty smart, huh?) and the good music.
AMAZING LUNCH: On the drive from Cafayate to the Salta Airport, we saw a small empanada joint down in the shadows of the pampas. We turned in and – it was one of the best meals and most delightful stops ever. The empanadas and beer were great, eaten outside on rustic picnic tables near a few other, local travelers. The locals were very curious about us, and when they learned that DH and I were from WDC, they got all excited and chanted ‘Obama, Obama !’ How neat was that – so far out there in the midst of that natural beauty and indigenous culture ? They got a big laugh when we asked where the ‘banos’ were – and pointed with no little glee to the trees and bushes. Los Gringos ! Just a great and unexpected side pleasure.
Arriving back in our apartment in BsAs really felt like coming home. We were all 4 enthralled with our trip to the NOA, and are grateful to have had the opportunity – and good advice – to have spent these 6 days there.
~MarnieWDC
We were all enthralled (and in 2 languages !)
We flew on LAN from BsAS, and as with our previous experiences, the trip was smooth and without a hitch - likewise for our dear friends from France whom we met in Salta on their return from Iguazzu on Lan (Why not directly on Andes ? long French story, but another time).
We met at HOTEL BALCARCE : This small, immaculate hotel, decorated with local crafts, was located on the main restaurant/peña street, just right for meandering. The bedrooms were small (little place to unpack) but quiet with very good beds, air-conditioners, TVs and excellent bathrooms. The price was good @ US$85.00 with a fine breakfast. At least one person on the staff spoke English at any time, and they were all delightful and helpful. I was charmed.
The next morning we were met by our guide, Karina, who was arranged for us by Giena (Gracias, again). Karina spoke good French and fairly good English, and she was knowledgeable about the area we were to explore with her: Purmamarca/Tilcara/Humahuaca. Karina was an excellent driver (no small thing here). The only negative was that she never asked us our preferences and seemed a bit put out when we tried to express them. So that we went to Tilcara en route to Purmamarca to our hotel (not a great move for adjusting to the altitude before heading up to the salt flats ) and twice to Yacon Restaurant (we loved Yacon, but would have preferred to have had a simple empanada lunch and save the time the 2nd day - but no consultation).
We stayed at HOTEL/Spa CASA de ADOBE. It was just lovely. There was no English spoken here, or French, but the concierge and staff were so engaging and so helpful that our pathetic Castillano con sign language was more than sufficient. The hotel is surrounded by the gorgeous mountains and is itself a part of the scenery. It looks exactly like the Web-photos and is beautifully appointed and lovely. The pool was clean and the breakfast very good - they have a fine restaurant here. We walked to the market in town and back. So nice with the beauty of the multicolored mts. all around. www.casadeadobe.com/ar/pictures.htm#1
I have been to so many SALT FLATS in France etc. that while I was impressed, I was not bowled over by the flats (perhaps I was jaded as I was suffering a bit from the altitude - so 'a grain of salt' ) The archeological site of Pucara de Ticara, was very interesting as were the markets and town squares in this region. And of course, those empanadas. And everywhere you turn - natural beauty - sigh ! Peaceful and lovely - even amidst the joyful celebrations of Pachamama ! And the histories and culture of the indigenous groups were fascinating.
Our second night in Salta we stayed at PARADOR EL LAGAR (thank you Punta Lugano) a magnificent mansion turned into an elegant B&B. The furnishings, the garden, the rooms the breakfast - all wonderfully appointed, comfortable and Très Elegant !
PEÑAS: on each of the 2 nights we spent in Salta, we went to Peñas - enticed into one just strolling by - hearing the appealing folk tunes and smelling those wonderful empanada aromas - and the second (among my best loved nights in NOA) by a local's recommendation.
CAR RENTAL for the trip to CAFAYATE was smooth as silk. I had written to El Lagar for a recommendation, and was put in touch with Federico Ochoa at Marina Turismo - he delivered the car as arranged - in excellent condition- and we dropped it to him at the Salta Airport several days later. www.marina-semisa.com.ar
The DRIVE to CAFAYATE was spectacular - others have written about this, and I will not try to compete or repeat, but AWSOME! It made me wish I had my mother's artistic talent.
We stayed in HOTEL KILLA, which was delightful, as others have noted, including the pool and the gardens. The staff port your luggage, but it is well to be aware that there are stairs and no elevator.
We loved the town, the square, the small Cathedral, the Nanni Wine tasting right in town. The drives to other wineries would be very easy (remember, we were with French folks from the Loire Valley - not a unique experience for them, so we limited this - but they loved Nanni and tasting all the Malbecs, Torrontes and other wonderful brews in the region and the country).
We were there during the SERENATA a CAFAYATE – Apparently, Serenata is not etymologically connected to serene. The very loud music went on from about 11:00 PM until 7:00 AM. Our room was quiet, but our friends had the concert for free both nights. Apparently the 2nd night was less electronic, and they could easily sleep. The folks in Killa and others in cafayate apologized to us, but it was not really a serious problem, and did not interfere with our having charming walks and wonderful meals. We enjoyed the Museum of Pachamama, which we found interesting, and well done, but having been to Barcelona, not a 'must see'.
RESTAURANTS: The small, cozy restaurant COLORADO is owned by an American couple - the food is excellent. On the square, where we had diner, Al Fresco, each night, were several good restaurants; we selected them by the French guide books (pretty smart, huh?) and the good music.
AMAZING LUNCH: On the drive from Cafayate to the Salta Airport, we saw a small empanada joint down in the shadows of the pampas. We turned in and – it was one of the best meals and most delightful stops ever. The empanadas and beer were great, eaten outside on rustic picnic tables near a few other, local travelers. The locals were very curious about us, and when they learned that DH and I were from WDC, they got all excited and chanted ‘Obama, Obama !’ How neat was that – so far out there in the midst of that natural beauty and indigenous culture ? They got a big laugh when we asked where the ‘banos’ were – and pointed with no little glee to the trees and bushes. Los Gringos ! Just a great and unexpected side pleasure.
Arriving back in our apartment in BsAs really felt like coming home. We were all 4 enthralled with our trip to the NOA, and are grateful to have had the opportunity – and good advice – to have spent these 6 days there.
~MarnieWDC
Mar 7th, 2010, 01:23 AM
#4
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Great report, Marnie!
I'm still laughing at ‘banos’=the trees and bushes.
Los Gringos! ROTFLMAO!
Do you remember the names of the "peñas", particularly the second one? Maybe Flintstones can help us with that?
I'm still laughing at ‘banos’=the trees and bushes.
Los Gringos! ROTFLMAO!
Do you remember the names of the "peñas", particularly the second one? Maybe Flintstones can help us with that?
Mar 7th, 2010, 01:23 AM
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Angie, alias Flintstones, is the best independent guide in our NW and I usually suggest using her services, but I cannot help myself: Angie, it is "MISSPELLING", with TWO "S".
Another thing, Angie: have Karina read Marnie's report thoroughly. Let's hope she can learn from it. The customer is ALWAYS right.
Another thing, Angie: have Karina read Marnie's report thoroughly. Let's hope she can learn from it. The customer is ALWAYS right.
Mar 12th, 2010, 08:46 AM
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Thanks Avrooster!
Marmiec: As I have been in contact with You, I am sorry for this, but I understand what happened... Karina is used to work for travel agencies. She is the kind of driver that does what it is assumed to be done. I am not justifying her, maybe she did not realised the way it works with private tours. Flexibility, freedom and independence.
In regular tours that is the way they manage with customers, I am sorry for this. Karina always followed my traces so I expect her to become the second best
!
Thanks Avrooster, again.
Flintstones
Marmiec: As I have been in contact with You, I am sorry for this, but I understand what happened... Karina is used to work for travel agencies. She is the kind of driver that does what it is assumed to be done. I am not justifying her, maybe she did not realised the way it works with private tours. Flexibility, freedom and independence.
In regular tours that is the way they manage with customers, I am sorry for this. Karina always followed my traces so I expect her to become the second best
!Thanks Avrooster, again.
Flintstones
Mar 14th, 2010, 06:31 AM
#11
Original Poster
And you, Kodi, were part of our good time in BsAs.
We revisited Cumaná for those fabulous empanadas and humitas several times after you left BsAs (for your airport adventure
and we thought of you each time.
Maybe next year ?
~Marnie & DH
We revisited Cumaná for those fabulous empanadas and humitas several times after you left BsAs (for your airport adventure
and we thought of you each time. Maybe next year ?
~Marnie & DH
