Peru Trip Report
Aug 10th, 2010, 11:14 AM
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Peru Trip Report
We booked out trip with Aracari based on the recommendation of Conde Nast magazine and we couldn’t be happier with the results!! They took care of everything and we just sat back and enjoyed!!! Most of our previous trips have been me planning and reading and mapping and stressing!! This is the first trip where I could truly relax. I didn’t even open he guide book I bought at Borders!
Day 1 – fly from Miami to Lima. We were greeted at the airport by Raul – who was just wonderful and took us to a waiting minivan and then back to our hotel in Miraflores. It was about 10 pm and we had a brief tour of Lima as we drove through the city to Miraflores. We had 2 rooms at Casa Inca just off the main lobby. My bed was VERY comfortable!!
Day 2 – After enjoying breakfast at casa Inca (I was wishing for those delicious breads when we were in Ollantaytambo) we were picked up by our guide John and a driver. We visited the Larco Herrera Museum and had a great children’s guide who made the experience for our kids really interesting!! She taught them to look for birds, snakes, and felines in the pottery and artwork. She also taught them about Quipus (recording devices used in the Inca Empire and its predecessor societies in the Andean region. A quipu usually consisted of colored spun and plied thread or strings from llama or alpaca hair. It could also be made of cotton cords. The cords contained numeric and other values encoded by knots in a base ten positional system. Quipus might have just a few or up to 2,000 cords) and had them create their own version. We also had a chance to check out the erotic collection while the kids played in the courtyard.
After the museum we visited colonial Lima with John. We spent time at the Cathedral, San Francisco Convent – the catacombs were a creepy hit with our kids, and we watched the changing of the guards at the Presidential Palace.
We had a delicious lunch near the Plaza Mayor at a great place and I can’t remember the name. I think it is one of the Gaston restaurants. We had excellent tiraditos and ceviche. We also visited Casa Alga - reportedly the oldest home on the Continent and still family-owned after 17 generations. Just beautiful!!
After our long day we came back to the hotel and walked to LarcoMar for dinner.
Day 3 – After an early breakfast we were picked up by Raul and taken back to the Lima airport for our flight to Cuzco.
We arrived in Cuzco and were picked up by our driver Henry and guide Gilmar – and off we went!!
First we stopped at the Awana Kancha - http://www.awanakancha.com/ingles/01awanakancha.html
It is a farm for llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, and guanacos. So much fun for all of us. You can feed and pet the animals and then learn about weaving.
After that we were off to Pisac. We spent some time walking around Pisac, but unfortunately that’s when my oldest son (10 years old) started feeling nauseous, had a headache, and turned a bit green. We had to get him back to the van and give him some oxygen. Did I mention that we had all been taking Diamox for about 36 hours before the ascent? I don’t know if that really helped anyone, but we took it nevertheless.
We cut the Pisac trip short and headed to Ollantaytambo to our hotel Pakaritampu. My son fell asleep for about an hour in the car (he never naps!) and felt much better when we arrived in Ollanta.
We spent the afternoon relaxing on the grounds and had a very early dinner in the hotel restaurant.
Day 4- Picked up after breakfast at the hotel to head to Patakancha and Pumamarca.
First we went to the village of Patakancha. It was Sunday and it was market day so the whole village was collected in a small area trading goods. Local boys were playing trompo and my kids were able to join in and learn how to play thanks to our guide. We were able to snap beautiful pictures of the children who were happy and smiling! Then we were off to Pumamarca for a small trek to the ruins. After the trek we were delighted to sit for a picnic lunch. The food was delicious and we were able to sit and relax and enjoy the views. After returning back to Ollanta we explored the plaza and the town and walked back to the hotel. For dinner we walked back into town and went to the Hearts Cafe.
Day 5 – Ollantaytambo tour. Loved this day!!! The ruins here were so impressive – we had so much fun exploring and observing the spectacular views of the valley. We also enjoyed walking through the town. We visited a traditional home complete with a litter a guinea pigs. My son was playing with them and you know what they say – don’t play with your food!! They actually wanted to take them home because it upset them that they would be someone’s dinner.
Lunch - Puka Rumi
Dinner – PachaMamma – Amazingly yummy pizza!
Day 6 – We were picked up after breakfast and driven up to Maras and the Salt Pans. This was really cool and the kids really enjoyed scooping up the salt to taste it! I even bought some pick salt to bring home. Then we were off to Moray – which was also fantastic. We hiked down all those little steps to the very bottom. The weather was just gorgeous!
Lunch was in Chinchero at a hotel. I can’t remember the name but it was very delicious! It was also very pretty and relaxing. The kids are quickly and went into the yard to hand out with the owner’s puppies and dogs.
After lunch we visited Chinchero and the church.
Throughout the day in the mountains we stopped at various locations to give little gifts of schools supplies to the local children that were out in the fields with their animals. This was a very nice experience for all of us. The kids are just precious.
We also spent a lot of time stopping to check out the animals. I guess we are city folks because the site of sheep, llamas, pigs, alpacas, donkeys, and cows would get us excited!
After returning to the hotel the kids went outside to play with friends they had made the day before and I had to repack our bags and separate what we needed to bring to Machu Picchu. In retrospect – I should have brought more clothes with me!!
Day 7 – We awoke before the crack of dawn to catch the 6:30 am Vistadome train to Aquas Caliente. We arrived at the train station and our guide Yuly was waiting for us. We left our small bags at the train station with the Inkaterra folks and they bring them to the hotel for you.
We took the bus up to MP and spent the morning with our guide exploring. It was nice getting up there so early – it was crowded yet and it was very misty- it made our experience even more magical.
Lunch – Sanctuary Buffet – not as bad as I thought it would be. There were a few items that were pretty good, soda was included, and it was a nice place to rest for a little while as the droves of day trippers came through midday.
After lunch we headed back out and really enjoyed ourselves – by 3:30 – 4 pm – it was almost empty – which was incredible to have it all to ourselves!! A photographers dream!
At 4:30 we took the bus back into AC and walked to Inkaterra. Check in and quick and we found our way to our room. The hot shower was to die for after the long day. We were took advantage of happy hour and enjoyed some Pisco Sours and Plantain chips. After happy hour we booked a nature hike for the morning and then hit dinner. Service was impeccable!! Dinner was so much fun!!! The dessert of brownie sundae was a gooey delight!
Day 8- Breakfast at Inkaterra was the best we had so far on the trip. Yummy Quinoa pancakes, French toast, and eggs were available by order and the buffet had great granola. The coffee was superb and grown on the premises (so is the tea.)
After breakfast we did the nature and orchid walk. The birding is incredible, especially the hummingbirds. My husband got some amazing shots of the hummingbirds mid air! We also got a chance to visit the rescued Andean Bears. They looked so sad in their cages, it was a little heart breaking. They are trying to rehabilitate one to send back into the wild.
After the walk we were back up to MP, to hike up to Sun Gate. We started the hike in the afternoon and it was HOT and very buggy. I wish we had used more bug spray. We are still itching! The hike was so much fun!!! The views are fantastic!!! We also had to the chance to greet hikers come over from the Inka Trail Trek. I felt so happy for them as they accomplished their goal and you could see the elation in their faces!
We took about 1 and ½ hours to get up. My youngest who is 7 was quite nervous as the trail gets pretty narrow and the drops are steep. I had to hang onto him the higher we got. On the way back down though he lost his fear and basically ran. We were down in 30 minutes.
Dinner – Inkaterra - YUMMY again!
Day 9 – Breakfast at Inkaterra again and then back to the train station to head to Ollantaytambo to get our bags and head to Cusco.
We were meet by our driver Henry and driven to Cusco – our hotel – Casa Adina Cathedral. Lets just say – I’m not a fan of the hotel – but I guess that’s another review.
At 2:00 our guide meet us to do a walking tour of Cusco. We visited the Cathedral and Koricancha. We also visited the Larco Museum.
Dinner – Baco – AMAZING!!!! Can’t say enough good things about this restaurant. I had seared tuna that a buttery delight! My son had bbq lamb pizza, and hubby had steak with raviolis.
Day 10 – After breakfast we were picked up by a crew of guys to take us White Water rafting. This day was soo fun!!! We were brought up to a point on the Urubamba River that was class 1 to 2+ rapids. We had 2 guides and 4 duckies (inflatable kayaks), so each kid went with a guide and my husband and I were in our own duckies. The company provided us with wetsuits, booties, jackets, life jackets, and helmets. We spent about 2 and 1/2 hours on the river. We passed woman doing their laundry, children with goats, dogs, and beautiful views all around. Towards the end of the trip the kids were allowed to grab their own boat and give paddling themselves a shot. My 7 year old was determined to do it by himself. He was so cute!! After rafting we were treated to a picnic lunch, which was lots of fun.
Dinner – Cicciolina – everyone is right – it was incredible!
Day 11 – We woke up and there was no power in half of Cuzco!! Packing in the dark was a tough task. Breakfast in the hotel by candlelight with only cold food was also not high on my list of things I wanted to do – so we left in search of better nourishment. We had stopped by Jack’s Café a few times earlier in our trip to grab a cup of coffee – so we thought we’d see what they had fir breakfast. To our delight their power was just fine and we had the most delicious breakfast ever!! I wish we could get breakfast like this is Miami! We had French Toast with Caramelized bananas and strawberries and Eggs with Pesto and Roasted tomatoes over toast. We also had chocolate milkshakes. I think our bill was about $15 before tip. Just DIVINE!!
We checked out of Casa Adina and headed out again with our guide and driver to visit a few more sites before hitting the airport: Sacsayhuaman, Tambomachay, Quenco and Puca Pucara.
Flight back to Lima overnight in the Ramada Costa Del Sol at the Airport.
Dinner – hotel – pretty good ceviche and pisco sours!
Day 12 – Wake up at 3 am to meet Raul to walk over to the airport at 4 and to check in for our flight back to Miami.
Our trip was just fabulous – we had the time of our lives!!! I can’t say enough good things about Aracari too!!
Day 1 – fly from Miami to Lima. We were greeted at the airport by Raul – who was just wonderful and took us to a waiting minivan and then back to our hotel in Miraflores. It was about 10 pm and we had a brief tour of Lima as we drove through the city to Miraflores. We had 2 rooms at Casa Inca just off the main lobby. My bed was VERY comfortable!!
Day 2 – After enjoying breakfast at casa Inca (I was wishing for those delicious breads when we were in Ollantaytambo) we were picked up by our guide John and a driver. We visited the Larco Herrera Museum and had a great children’s guide who made the experience for our kids really interesting!! She taught them to look for birds, snakes, and felines in the pottery and artwork. She also taught them about Quipus (recording devices used in the Inca Empire and its predecessor societies in the Andean region. A quipu usually consisted of colored spun and plied thread or strings from llama or alpaca hair. It could also be made of cotton cords. The cords contained numeric and other values encoded by knots in a base ten positional system. Quipus might have just a few or up to 2,000 cords) and had them create their own version. We also had a chance to check out the erotic collection while the kids played in the courtyard.
After the museum we visited colonial Lima with John. We spent time at the Cathedral, San Francisco Convent – the catacombs were a creepy hit with our kids, and we watched the changing of the guards at the Presidential Palace.
We had a delicious lunch near the Plaza Mayor at a great place and I can’t remember the name. I think it is one of the Gaston restaurants. We had excellent tiraditos and ceviche. We also visited Casa Alga - reportedly the oldest home on the Continent and still family-owned after 17 generations. Just beautiful!!
After our long day we came back to the hotel and walked to LarcoMar for dinner.
Day 3 – After an early breakfast we were picked up by Raul and taken back to the Lima airport for our flight to Cuzco.
We arrived in Cuzco and were picked up by our driver Henry and guide Gilmar – and off we went!!
First we stopped at the Awana Kancha - http://www.awanakancha.com/ingles/01awanakancha.html
It is a farm for llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, and guanacos. So much fun for all of us. You can feed and pet the animals and then learn about weaving.
After that we were off to Pisac. We spent some time walking around Pisac, but unfortunately that’s when my oldest son (10 years old) started feeling nauseous, had a headache, and turned a bit green. We had to get him back to the van and give him some oxygen. Did I mention that we had all been taking Diamox for about 36 hours before the ascent? I don’t know if that really helped anyone, but we took it nevertheless.
We cut the Pisac trip short and headed to Ollantaytambo to our hotel Pakaritampu. My son fell asleep for about an hour in the car (he never naps!) and felt much better when we arrived in Ollanta.
We spent the afternoon relaxing on the grounds and had a very early dinner in the hotel restaurant.
Day 4- Picked up after breakfast at the hotel to head to Patakancha and Pumamarca.
First we went to the village of Patakancha. It was Sunday and it was market day so the whole village was collected in a small area trading goods. Local boys were playing trompo and my kids were able to join in and learn how to play thanks to our guide. We were able to snap beautiful pictures of the children who were happy and smiling! Then we were off to Pumamarca for a small trek to the ruins. After the trek we were delighted to sit for a picnic lunch. The food was delicious and we were able to sit and relax and enjoy the views. After returning back to Ollanta we explored the plaza and the town and walked back to the hotel. For dinner we walked back into town and went to the Hearts Cafe.
Day 5 – Ollantaytambo tour. Loved this day!!! The ruins here were so impressive – we had so much fun exploring and observing the spectacular views of the valley. We also enjoyed walking through the town. We visited a traditional home complete with a litter a guinea pigs. My son was playing with them and you know what they say – don’t play with your food!! They actually wanted to take them home because it upset them that they would be someone’s dinner.
Lunch - Puka Rumi
Dinner – PachaMamma – Amazingly yummy pizza!
Day 6 – We were picked up after breakfast and driven up to Maras and the Salt Pans. This was really cool and the kids really enjoyed scooping up the salt to taste it! I even bought some pick salt to bring home. Then we were off to Moray – which was also fantastic. We hiked down all those little steps to the very bottom. The weather was just gorgeous!
Lunch was in Chinchero at a hotel. I can’t remember the name but it was very delicious! It was also very pretty and relaxing. The kids are quickly and went into the yard to hand out with the owner’s puppies and dogs.
After lunch we visited Chinchero and the church.
Throughout the day in the mountains we stopped at various locations to give little gifts of schools supplies to the local children that were out in the fields with their animals. This was a very nice experience for all of us. The kids are just precious.
We also spent a lot of time stopping to check out the animals. I guess we are city folks because the site of sheep, llamas, pigs, alpacas, donkeys, and cows would get us excited!
After returning to the hotel the kids went outside to play with friends they had made the day before and I had to repack our bags and separate what we needed to bring to Machu Picchu. In retrospect – I should have brought more clothes with me!!
Day 7 – We awoke before the crack of dawn to catch the 6:30 am Vistadome train to Aquas Caliente. We arrived at the train station and our guide Yuly was waiting for us. We left our small bags at the train station with the Inkaterra folks and they bring them to the hotel for you.
We took the bus up to MP and spent the morning with our guide exploring. It was nice getting up there so early – it was crowded yet and it was very misty- it made our experience even more magical.
Lunch – Sanctuary Buffet – not as bad as I thought it would be. There were a few items that were pretty good, soda was included, and it was a nice place to rest for a little while as the droves of day trippers came through midday.
After lunch we headed back out and really enjoyed ourselves – by 3:30 – 4 pm – it was almost empty – which was incredible to have it all to ourselves!! A photographers dream!
At 4:30 we took the bus back into AC and walked to Inkaterra. Check in and quick and we found our way to our room. The hot shower was to die for after the long day. We were took advantage of happy hour and enjoyed some Pisco Sours and Plantain chips. After happy hour we booked a nature hike for the morning and then hit dinner. Service was impeccable!! Dinner was so much fun!!! The dessert of brownie sundae was a gooey delight!
Day 8- Breakfast at Inkaterra was the best we had so far on the trip. Yummy Quinoa pancakes, French toast, and eggs were available by order and the buffet had great granola. The coffee was superb and grown on the premises (so is the tea.)
After breakfast we did the nature and orchid walk. The birding is incredible, especially the hummingbirds. My husband got some amazing shots of the hummingbirds mid air! We also got a chance to visit the rescued Andean Bears. They looked so sad in their cages, it was a little heart breaking. They are trying to rehabilitate one to send back into the wild.
After the walk we were back up to MP, to hike up to Sun Gate. We started the hike in the afternoon and it was HOT and very buggy. I wish we had used more bug spray. We are still itching! The hike was so much fun!!! The views are fantastic!!! We also had to the chance to greet hikers come over from the Inka Trail Trek. I felt so happy for them as they accomplished their goal and you could see the elation in their faces!
We took about 1 and ½ hours to get up. My youngest who is 7 was quite nervous as the trail gets pretty narrow and the drops are steep. I had to hang onto him the higher we got. On the way back down though he lost his fear and basically ran. We were down in 30 minutes.
Dinner – Inkaterra - YUMMY again!
Day 9 – Breakfast at Inkaterra again and then back to the train station to head to Ollantaytambo to get our bags and head to Cusco.
We were meet by our driver Henry and driven to Cusco – our hotel – Casa Adina Cathedral. Lets just say – I’m not a fan of the hotel – but I guess that’s another review.
At 2:00 our guide meet us to do a walking tour of Cusco. We visited the Cathedral and Koricancha. We also visited the Larco Museum.
Dinner – Baco – AMAZING!!!! Can’t say enough good things about this restaurant. I had seared tuna that a buttery delight! My son had bbq lamb pizza, and hubby had steak with raviolis.
Day 10 – After breakfast we were picked up by a crew of guys to take us White Water rafting. This day was soo fun!!! We were brought up to a point on the Urubamba River that was class 1 to 2+ rapids. We had 2 guides and 4 duckies (inflatable kayaks), so each kid went with a guide and my husband and I were in our own duckies. The company provided us with wetsuits, booties, jackets, life jackets, and helmets. We spent about 2 and 1/2 hours on the river. We passed woman doing their laundry, children with goats, dogs, and beautiful views all around. Towards the end of the trip the kids were allowed to grab their own boat and give paddling themselves a shot. My 7 year old was determined to do it by himself. He was so cute!! After rafting we were treated to a picnic lunch, which was lots of fun.
Dinner – Cicciolina – everyone is right – it was incredible!
Day 11 – We woke up and there was no power in half of Cuzco!! Packing in the dark was a tough task. Breakfast in the hotel by candlelight with only cold food was also not high on my list of things I wanted to do – so we left in search of better nourishment. We had stopped by Jack’s Café a few times earlier in our trip to grab a cup of coffee – so we thought we’d see what they had fir breakfast. To our delight their power was just fine and we had the most delicious breakfast ever!! I wish we could get breakfast like this is Miami! We had French Toast with Caramelized bananas and strawberries and Eggs with Pesto and Roasted tomatoes over toast. We also had chocolate milkshakes. I think our bill was about $15 before tip. Just DIVINE!!
We checked out of Casa Adina and headed out again with our guide and driver to visit a few more sites before hitting the airport: Sacsayhuaman, Tambomachay, Quenco and Puca Pucara.
Flight back to Lima overnight in the Ramada Costa Del Sol at the Airport.
Dinner – hotel – pretty good ceviche and pisco sours!
Day 12 – Wake up at 3 am to meet Raul to walk over to the airport at 4 and to check in for our flight back to Miami.
Our trip was just fabulous – we had the time of our lives!!! I can’t say enough good things about Aracari too!!
Aug 10th, 2010, 02:13 PM
#2
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Wow, what a report!!! We're planning our two week trip for mid-September, this was very helpful.
I don't know if this is appropriate to ask (could be like asking a lady her age or something), but did you keep track of costs at all? If you aren't comfortable for posting here, you could email me at [email protected].
Congrats on a great trip...
I don't know if this is appropriate to ask (could be like asking a lady her age or something), but did you keep track of costs at all? If you aren't comfortable for posting here, you could email me at [email protected].
Congrats on a great trip...
Aug 12th, 2010, 04:59 AM
#3
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IronBender give Aracari a call - I told them my budget and they worked with me to come up with an itinerary.
http://www.aracari.com/
They have a US telephone number that rings their Lima office.
We traveled as a family of four so we needed 2 rooms in 3 out of the 5 hotels.
http://www.aracari.com/
They have a US telephone number that rings their Lima office.
We traveled as a family of four so we needed 2 rooms in 3 out of the 5 hotels.
Aug 15th, 2010, 05:51 PM
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Wow, what a great trip report. I really enjoyed reading it. It sounds like you had a really good trip, and it's making me want to go.
I'm assuming Aracari is for upscale travelers if it was recommended by Conde Nast.
I wonder if they work with budget travelers.
I guess I'll have to call!
I'm assuming Aracari is for upscale travelers if it was recommended by Conde Nast.
I wonder if they work with budget travelers.
I guess I'll have to call!
Aug 16th, 2010, 03:21 PM
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mglb - we did sit outside. It had outside and inside seating, bathrooms were upstairs. It also had a little patio on the side. It was a block off the plaza, but I have no idea in which direction. If you are looking at the Palace it was to the left.
