Atravelyn,

I seem to remember us talking about the Pantanal previously. Didn't you go before and share some pictures? My old Fodor's id was EDH_Traveler.

Anyway, I think 2010 will be the Pantanal year for us. We are thinking 2 weeks with half the time in the Amazon and the other half in the Pantanal. I am still researching lodges and places to go. From some of my research, it appears that having a dedicated guide and/or having a tour company book your in country travel arrangements may be the way to go.

This would be a dream trip for us so I am starting the research early.

Alan

Possibly 2010 for us too.

But right now, I just really need to make a decision on this September's trip. Every week I flip flop between keeping or dropping Madagascar.

I did go to the Pacific coast of Mexico over the weekend and have some West Mexican Chachalaca photos to upload.

Patty,

You might get some more peccaries and coaties in the Pantanal.

Not to dissuade you Patty, because I would love to see your first hand account for selfish reasons, but have you seen the recent violence in Madagascar?

Atdahl, Looks like it would be a good trip! Lots of great places in the Pantanal.

No, I hadn't seen that. Thanks for mentioning it, Lynn.

Lynn - I'm only 2! Never been, but we're going in September to many of the places you've already been. So I'll swap stories when we return. Can't wait to hear about the southern pantanal!

Marsha

Yes - 2010 - and looking at all your posts to get some ideas on how best to do it. I can afford 14 days on ground. Just made another post regarding the Jaguar Research Center and whether anyone has been there or knows anything about it. They seem to claim a ton of jaguar sightings, but not sure if there is a catch.

I posted on your other thread. I'd ask for past clients to contact as references. The catch in any wildlife viewing is it is all luck and you usually spend 90% to 99% of your time waiting and watching for 1% to 10% of the excitement.

Very true. Since I do most of my safaris in India, I can absolutely agree.

Lynn,

We're back from the northern pantanal...it was everything you said and more! Absolutely loved it and we're considering a trip to see the southern panatanal sometime, as well as the Amazon region.

We saw over 400 species of birds (the cheeky saffron toucanet was my favorite), several groups of giant river otters, 7 jaguars in 2 boat trips (WOW!!!), and we ate boatloads of pacu (a fruit-eating piranha).

We also went to Iguazu Falls for 3 days where we caught the tail end of that huge tornado-spawning storm. We had rain the entire time we were there...producing fewer birds, but the falls were spectacular with 30% more water than usual.

We're still processing our photos and will post a link when we're finished. But I've uploaded a few video clips at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/21542171@N04/sets/72157622487011898/ (hope the link works.)

You're trip report really helped us with our trip to the pantanal...thanks again!

Marsha

These videos are wonderful; thanks for sharing. It was great to see the beautiful birds in action! I hope you will be posting a trip report, I will be curious to learn where you stayed and where you saw the jaguars. Thanks!

Great videos. I think we were in the southern pantanal at the same time you were in the northern. No jaguars for us...

Marija, did you get any of that terrible storm? It supposedly hit Mato Grosso do Sul pretty hard. Loved your trip report...it's part of the reason we're considering southern pantanal and the Amazon area. Sounds like a trip to the northern pantanal for jaguars is in order for you!

numbat83, sorry but that's all the trip report I can muster...I'm not very good about journaling our trips. But here is our itinerary....let me know if you have any questions about hotels.

Aug 28: Fly Chicago to Dallas/Ft Worth to Sao Paulo to Rio
Aug 30: Rio Quinta da Boa Vista and Zoo
Aug 31: Rio Botanical Garden; Oceano Copacabana Hotel (would not recommend this hotel)
Sep 01: Rio to Itatiaia National Park; Hotel do Ype (videos of hanging feeders and capuchin)
Sep 02: Itatiaia NP mid-elevation; Hotel do Ype
Sep 03: Itatiaia NP upper; Hotel do Ype
Sep 04: Itatiaia NP lower; fly from Sao Paulo to Cuiaba via Campo Grande; drive Cuiaba to Currupira das Araras
Sep 05: Currupira das Araras (where we saw the Harpy Eagle)
Sep 06: Currupira das Araras; drive to Caceres via Cuiaba; boat trip on Rio Paraguay to Hotel Baiazinha
Sep 07: Boat trip on Rio Paraguay to Taiama Island Reserve (saw 4 jaguars); Hotel Baiazinha
Sep 08: Hotel Baiazinha grounds; boat trip on Rio Paraguay
Sep 09: Boat trip on Rio Paraguay to Caceres; drive to Pocone; Transpantaneira Road to Rio Pixaim; Hotel Pantanal Mato Grosso (videos of Aracari and Troupial)
Sep 10: Dawn boat trip on Rio Pixaim (videos of Giant River Otter); Transpantaneira Road (K65) to Porto Jofre (K145); Hotel Porto Jofre
Sep 11: Boat trip on Rio Cuiaba and Rio Tres Hermanos (saw 3 jaguars, including the gimpy one in the video); Hotel Porto Jofre
Sep 12: Drive Transpantaneira Road to Pouso Alegre (K33)(video of Hyacinth macaw)
Sep 13: Drive Transpantaneira Road to Pocone to Cuiaba; Chapada dos Guimaraes; Pousad do Penhasco
Sep 14: Chapada dos Guimaraes; Pousad do Penhasco
Sep 15: Fly Cuiaba to Sao Paulo to Foz do Iguacu via Sao Paulo; drive to Hotel Sheraton Iguazu Argentina and arrive at 2am!
Sep 16: Hotel Sheraton Iguazu Argentina
Sep 17: Hotel Sheraton Iguazu Argentina
Sep 18: Fly Foz do Iguacu to Sao Paulo to Dallas/Ft Worth to Chicago

Finally got our photos from Brazil online at www.pbase.com/deseml/ ...it's the last gallery on the page.

I've also put up a few more videos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/21542171@N04/sets/72157622487011898/

The Pantanal is a fabulous area to explore. Thanks again to Lynn and Marija for their oh so helpful trip reports!

Marsha

Great photos, OB!

The Harpy Eagle has to be a huge thrill for birders like you. Was it commonly seen there or were you just very lucky?

I was admiring the saffron toucanet too.

Your bird photos are outstanding. Love the jaguar peeking through the leaves.

What company did you use again and what kind of vehicle were you in in N. Pantanal? What an outstanding itinerary and results!

Lynn:
The Harpy Eagle was a stake out bird, or rather nest. Harpys have a 3 year cycle where after hatching the chick stays around the nest for 2 years and the third year is when the adults go off to breed and are not around the nest site. The nest we saw was actually discovered 10 years ago by our Argentinian guide which made it all that much more exciting. This is THE bird to see for birders traveling to Brazil.

I too loved the saffron toucanets...very tame (hand fed them bananas), cheeky and wild-eyed looking in a beautiful way.

We've been traveling with Borderland Tours, a birding tour company out of Tucson. They use Trogon Tours, a birding company out of Argentina, to organize and guide their Brazil tours.

There were 15 of us and I think we had a 20 seater (plus back seat) van. The upper windows opened, which was good for photography. But I thought the van a little too small for the number of birders and photographers, especially since we were road birding all along the Transpantaneira (180 miles roundtrip). It's the age old problem of one side of the vehicle being able to see and not the other. Oh, the other interesting thing about the van was that the driver's area was walled off with glass...maybe to let him smoke or to give him peace from the tourists? Whatever the reason, it did impede the forward view. But I think this might be the norm as I recall all vans/buses seen having similar set ups.

FYI - most of the pictures are Dave's, not mine. He uses a DSLR and gets so much better photos, especially of those tiny or far away birds. It never ceases to amaze me how he gets some of those photos!

Unfortunately the Northern Pantanal might have to wait until 2011 or later.

Marsha

I did know that about the Harpy. So did you plan your trip to coincide with the behavior so that you weren't there on the "odd year out"?

Interesting info on the vehicle.

Thanks, Ovenbird!

Thanks so much for sharing these beautiful photos and posting your itinerary details. The diversity of birds is just amazing in your photos.. It sounds like you saw the jaguars in the same general area as Lynn did on her trip. The three of you (OB, Marija, and Lynn) are making it absolutely impossible to decide where to go in the Pantanal -- everything sounds amazing and I think I'd need more time and money than I have to see it all. Thanks again for all the info!

Thanks...I'll let Dave know his pictures are appreciated!

I think all birding tours to Brazil are planned around the 3 year cycle of that specific Harpy nest. It's a side trip and a bit off the beaten path for non-birders, so general wildlife tours probably don't go there and don't have to pay attention to the cycle.

But that's not necessarily a bad thing. Since Lynn's tour wasn't focused on birds, I think she saw many more mammals than we did. I'm just very happy we saw jaguars. However, Giant Anteaters would have been nice...next time!

Marsha

And a harpy eagle would be nice next time for me.

Who knows, maybe we'll pass in the middle some where!

Or since we all fly out of ORD perhaps we can get together and swap stories, photos and video?!

Ovenbird,

great photos, thanks for sharing. I have just booked 8 nights in the Northern Pantanal with Pantanal Trackers and 4 nights in the Southern Pantanal staying at Barranco Alto for July 2010.

I'm so looking forward to this trip and am enjoying the reports and photos of other travellers in anticipation.

Cheers,


Pol

Pol, lucky you...Northern and Southern Pantanal! I think when we go back to see the Southern Pantanal, we'll do what you're doing and include the Northern to have another chance at seeing jaguars!

ORD folks: We're in/out frequently so just have them page "ovenbird"!

Ovenbird, thanks for sharing the videos and pictures. Sounds like you had a great trip. Some day I will make it to the Pantanal to see its beauty for myself. In the meantime, I have fun living vicariously through others.

Looks like you have been to some incredible places based on the photo galleries. Do you have a favorite location/trip?

atdahl, it will sound trite but our favorite trip is always the next one. Planning and anticipation are such big parts of why we enjoy traveling so much. But I think the memories that produce the most contented sighs from us are of the expedition we took to see the Emperor penguins in Antarctica. That trip was truely magical.

When you do go to the Pantanal, you will be amazed by the beauty of its scenery, animals and birds. Hope it's soon!

You're trying the hard sell on me, ovenbird! I saw you did a special trip to the Antarctic for the Emperor Penguins. Is that because you don't usually see them on the regular trips?

I asked you about Galapagos on the Antarctica thread. We are getting our destinations and trips all jumbled up.

I'm thinking about a wet season visit to the Northern Pantanal. Not the upcoming wet season, but sometime.

I am definitely not thinking about going during the Olympics.

I just noticed this:
gshah18 on Mar 28, 09 at 10:51pm
...Since I do most of my safaris in India....
This thread has veered to Antarctica and Galapagos, so if you tune in again Gshah18, let's hear about your suggestions for Indian safaris.

The pantanal is amazing I've been twice now and learnt a lot from my first trip. The second trip was to just to locations but for longer stays. We saw some amazing wildlife, 1 jaguar, Giant otters, Giant anteater with baby on back, loads of pecaaries and a lot more. There's a full trip report at http://tripreports.co.uk/2009/12/16-day-brazil-pantanal-and-amazon-july-2009-trip-review-by-serko-boonstra/ if anyone is interested.

Hi - I think I did already in one of your posts: http://www.fodors.com/community/asia/wildlife-nature-trips-in-asia.cfm

Any questions you have about Indian safaris or wildlife, let me know!

Hi Gshah18,

Thanks for the link and I remember that.

I plan to spend some time in Corbett. What do you think about Malani Forest Rest House?

What is the difference between the northern Pantanal, the southern Pantanal and the Amazon?

Treepol,

We're thinking of doing another trip to the Pantanal (North likely, maybe South too) later this year. What is your itinerary for July 2010? How did you find Pantanal Trackers to deal with? I'm looking for a good company and I read on another thread you had problems with Tropical Nature (Charles Munn) and with Focus Tours (Doug Trent). Thanks.

Marsha

Brazil Nature Tours was a pleasure to deal with:
http://www.opendoortur.com.br
I highly recommend them.

I believe Brazil Nature Tours did both Amazon and Pantanal for Marija.

Cferbb, I had a similar question quite a few years ago, mainly on the difference between N and S Pantanal. After visiting each, here are my findings in a link below.

Just to clarify on the "problems" that were aluded to, as I understand them:

I think the Charles Munn Tropical Nature outfit had systemic problems with operations that do not uphold sound wildlife management.

The Douglas Trent Focus Tours problems that have been mentioned and that I even experienced as a client are related to getting in touch with the company. It is a communications issue but I believe their practice, principles, and product they offer are very sound. I have no vested interest in any of these companies.

Anyway...in general the whole Pantanal, which is south of the Amazon Jungle, is more open, savannalike and swamplike and therefore birds and animals are more visible. It is also not as far away from Sao Paulo or Rio, which can make logistics easier.

Since I've only visited the Ecuadorian portion of the Amazon, I'll defer to the others on a more detailed comparison. But if time and money allowed, I would not hesitate to incorporate both the Amazon and the Pantanal into an itinerary.

http://www.fodors.com/community/south-america/northern-vs-southern-pantanal.cfm

Thanks Marija and atravelynn. I had already added Brazil Nature Tours to my short list of companies to contact. I'll also add Focus Tours, but the communications issue might be a problem for me if it occurs too much. I would really like to deal with only one company for the entire trip (3 weeks) if possible.

We'll be going with friends (one a birder, the other not) so it'll be focused on nature, not just birds.

atravelynn, I'm thinking of going to the same areas you went to on your first trip for the big 5 (jaguar, giant anteater, tapir, maned wolf, giant otter). Then I'd like to add Iquazu Falls, a couple of days in Rio, and some Atlantic Rainforest feeder birding. I'd also like to add the Southern Pantanal and Amazon.

Uh oh, this trip is sounding more like 3 months, not 3 weeks!

Marsha

If you want another company to consider, we used Brazil Ecotravel, which is based in Rio and they were very good:

http://www.brazil-ecotravel.com/publique/cgi/cgilua.exe/sys/start.htm?tpl=home

Interesting Big 5 of the Pantanal. I agree to use one company if possible.

Hi Ovenbird,

Atravelynn has accurately summed up my concerns with Tropical Nature and Focus Tours.

Our Pantanal itinerary is 4 nights in the Southern Pantanal at Barranco Alto with a road transfer in and a charter flight out, http://www.fazendabarrancoalto.com.br/. I really like the way the blog is updated so frequently.

Northern Pantanal is 2 nights Rio Clara, 4 nights Porto Jofre Hotel and 2 nights Posada Alegre and one pre-departure night in Cuiaba.

Pantanal Trackers are fine to deal with, Julinho usually responds within 24 hours as he has a laptop with him in the Pantanal. In my experience he checks and responds to email both morning and evening. He has been extremely helpful, even dealing with a last minute change of plan to accommodate improved air connections. I think we are in for a great trip with him. I have been very happy with tailor-made African safaris and I get the impression that Julinho as an owner-operator promises a similar rewarding experience.

Other operators for the Pantanal that I found were Ailton Lara of Pantanal Nature http://www.pantanalnature.com.br (see Tripadvisr for some reviews.) I didn't contact him, but he was on my list and Boute Expeditions also, http://www.boute-expeditions.com/ . Marluce responded very quickly, but their customisations were nowhere near as thoughtfully put together as Julinho's.

Posada Piuval and Pousada Mutum sounded interesting but 8 days in the Northern Pantanal is our limit. Have you heard of this place - http://www.guapiassubirdlodge.com/ It was on our list along with Uakari Floating Lodge, but sadly we don't have time in the itinerary for either.

All of our Brazil land itinerary with the exception of the Pantanal Trackers sector is being booked through BNT. John confirmed Barranco Alto for us last October and I am currently waiting to hear back from him regarding accommodation at Iguazu, Rio and Sao Paulo. BNT have been excellent to work with and I would strongly recommend them.


Cheers,


Pol

Thanks everyone for your insights, recommendations and clarifications.

Pol, I've heard of that lodge run by REGUA, but I don't know anyone who has been there. I think most birding groups go to Hotel do Ype or Serra dos Tucanos for Atlantic Rainforest birds.

atravelynn, I reread your northern pantanal trip report and noticed you used an open safari-type vehicle on the Transpantaneira. How did you like it? We used an air conditioned van and roasted when on the sunny side of the vehicle, especially when folks were taking photos and the engine was turned off. I've seen some pics of the open vehicle and in all of them it looks like the sun is not totally blocked. Was this a problem?

We were not out in the heat of the day most of the time but the sun was not blocked so it got hot at times. In the evening when we had one long stretch of traveling, it was quite cold. But I really don't recall too much discomfort.

The open vehicle was an asset and allowed greater visibility and is what I would try to get in the future.

Thanks Lynn. Our friends are a bit fussy, especially when they ar blindsided. We will also have the open safari vehicle in the Pantanal, so we'll just prepare them for it. Aside from getting hot or cold sometimes, it sounds like it was far superior to the van we used on our previous trip.

Hope the researching for your India trip is going well.

Hi Ovenbird,
(already posted this to another thread, sorry)
I've been on a 5 days tour in northern Pantanal with Julinho from Pantanal Trackers (www.pantanaltrackers.com.br)in oct 09 and it was really outstanding, for the animals we saw (a couple of jaguars the day we arrived, only us and them for hours), the gorgeous nature, the people we met. And Julinho himself is just the greatest companion you could wish to have by your side, he has deep knowledge about the fauna and flora and local culture. A knowledge based on a life's experience there, on patient observation of the environment, he is a 'pantaneiro', NOT one of the many operators that smelled a good opportunity to make money on jaguar-sighting in the last 2 years.
Check my travel report if you want more info, and feel free to ask me any question!
http://pantanalnorte2009.blogspot.com/

claudiaP, thanks for the info. It sounded like you had a wonderful trip to the Pantanal.

In response to myself, I am thinking about going again.

Treepol, we keep just missing. Did you do a Barranca Alto report?

Was it really over 2 years ago that I last checked in here?

Hi Lynn,

I didn't do a TR but will PM you some notes I kept on Barranco Alto. My photos are here, https://picasaweb.google.com/Treepol/SouthAmericaSouthernPantanalBarrancoAlto

Cheerz,


Pol

atravelynn, we are looking at a fall 2013 trip ourselves. I enjoyed reading information about your past trips so do keep this forum updated with your plans.

Thanks.

There's a special place in my heart for anteaters, Treepol. Nice capture of that creature. Otters OUT of the water is a rarity. Great photos and appreciate the info you sent on safaritalk. Thanks Treepol.

Atdahl,
I'm looking at about 6 nts Barranco Alto. They are easy to work with directly. Email is best, but sometimes your message might end up in their trash box. If no response, try again. Will probably add another spot in the Pantanal, Baia das Pedras, plus maybe something else. Working with Brazil Nature Tours for the other parts.

We are going to the Pantanal with Pantanal Trackers in August and are really looking forward to it. We are staying at the same places Treepol did, plus a couple of nights of camping. This will be our first trip to South America, and we're also going to Iguazu Falls and Rio.

Kmania,

please do report back on your Pantanal trip and good luck with the jaguars.

Regards,


Pol