CardiganCorgi

Hello,

My husband and I were married in Doolin two decades ago after meeting several years earlier in an American college year abroad program at UCC. We are returning for the first time for our 20th anniversary, this time with two teens, ages 13 and 16. I have been lurking here and have gathered that things have changed quite a bit since our last visit and are much busier. Also, due to school schedules, we unfortunately must travel at the most inopportune time, mid August (quelle horreur 😉…).

I’m wondering if the lovely Fodorites on this site would please take a look at my proposed itinerary and share your insights. Thank you so much for your time and help—it is much appreciated.

Day 1 (Sunday): Arrive SNN drive to Kerry

Days/Nights 1-3 (arrive Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, leaving Wednesday): Stay in Killarney (Killarney Park Hotel) as a base and do the Gap of Dunloe and perhaps do a day drive to see a bit of West Cork, Bantry or Clon or maybe Beara peninsula.

n.b. I went back and forth on Killarney or Kenmare but thought the teens may like Killarney as it may be more lively and have more shops for them. Or am I misjudging and it all over 50’s tourists (like me!) and they won’t be into it. I really don’t know if staying there in August is an absolutely terrible idea though in terms of just ridiculous crowds as I’ve never been to Killarney in summer (just off season when it was not crowded). Any thoughts are appreciated, is it a bit better in the evening when tour buses leave like many places are?

Day/Night 4: On Wednesday a.m., leisurely drive to Portmagee (southern route). Stay at The Moorings and do the Skellig Michael landing tour in the a.m. on Thursday.

Day/Nights 5 & 6: After the Skellig Michael landing tour in the a.m. on Thursday, drive to Dingle (Pax House) for 2 nights. Drive the peninsula on Friday and check out Sat.

Day/Nights 7 & 8: On Saturday a.m., drive to Doolin. Stop by Cliffs on way. Drive to Burren and do Aillwee Cave visit. Stay at Fiddle &Bow.

n.b. This is where I’ve lost the plot a bit, I considered cutting going to Inis Mor from Doolin as a day trip in the middle day or perhaps only staying in Doolin one night, driving on to Rossaveel, getting the 5 pm ferry to Inis Mor and staying there overnight for Night 8. I wanted to get to Connemara anyways so not out of the way but maybe that is too stressful and getting there at 6pm doesn’t make much sense. I have visited Inis Mor two decades ago and it was magical and desolate, is it different now? Is it a priority to say overnight in your opinion?

Day/Night 9, 10, 11, 12: Okay, now the plot has been completely lost! The next few days are “squishy”, haven’t was thinking Galway/Connemara area, maybe get to Mayo to see Westport. Perhaps visit Kissane and try to do a sheepdog demonstration. Or Falconry somewhere (could also do that in Killarney).

I haveno bookings for these 4 nights, thinking maybe basing in Clifden, Delphi, or Westport and enjoying Connemara. I was not going to go to Galway City, though it’s a lovely city, because I was thinking the coast is so spectacular how could we forgo it. However, maybe at this point the itinerary will have become repetitive and perhaps I am not putting myself in the shoes of the teens on the trip so really open to anything.

Final Night 13: Stay at The Old Ground in Ennis before flying out from SNN on Day 14.

Thank you again so much for any advice an insight on activities, pacing and which towns/cities to stay in!

AlessandraZoe

I first saw Ireland with my young teens around two decades ago when you and your husband toured, and my husband and I just finished our 5th (or is it 6th?) return trip last June. So I do have some observations regarding your itinerary...

1) Inis Mor was a nightmare for us this year. My girls and I spent the day there 20ish years ago mid-June, leaving on a small ferry from Doolin at dawn with our bikes. Both our cycle route and our trail climb to Dun Aengus were peaceful and free of traffic and crowds. The girls and I had room to crawl out on our bellies to overlook the cliffs and we had no worries about someone scooting us over. No road traffic. We had lunch at the cafe at its base and enjoyed a wonderful view. We then took the ferry to Rossaveel and were shuttled to Clifton, where we began all our Connemara adventures.

Flash forward--this year, at the same time in June, crowds overwhelmed everything. Cyclists and minivans and horse carriages were dodging each other over clogged roads the entire way out and back. The view at the cafe had been obscured by new buildings, new ventures, and new touring vans. I had hoped to recreate that first experience for my husband, who could not be there then. Instead, I provided him with everything he hated in this world: crowds, traffic, and an endless boat ride. And it wasn't even August yet.

Interestingly enough, some of the people on our return ferry were absolutely delighted with the experience. It seemed only the people who were revisiting were the ones upset.

I'm sure an overnight stay would provide a better experience as long as you are ONLY there without the crowd portion. But is that even worth it? There are so many other ways to spend time.

2) I'm mixed on Killarney. We don't drive in Ireland (yeah, we had always cycled, as though THAT's safer. Family joke). This year we stayed in Killarney three nights, and two different drivers were responsible for getting us around to things we should see. Both were crowd-avoidance experts and both had childhood histories with the area, which added to our enjoyment. Without a doubt, we LOVED the scenery. And we longed for our old cycling days--one of the companies with which we always cycled had re-routed the trip to go through The Gap now.

The downside? Wall-to-wall Americans. I had become ill, and when we weren't out touring, my "outside-of-the-VRBO" experiences were limited. Even so, I had never become so annoyed by being surrounded with endless countrymen before. Even with any other stops we made this trip, we never felt so overwhelmed by the home team. I asked a bartender if it was my imagination, and she looked at her co-worked and said, "I swear there's no one Irish in the town." My husband did leave the VRBO constantly, and he would come back to report about "The Situation." I shall quote what I wrote in my trip report (I'll link to that later)

"Each time he came back, he reported what he did--and he kept saying that while he had met a few Irish folk, almost everyone in town was American. All wanted to talk about why they were here and invariably they would ask him why he was here. He finally told one group that he was here to get away from them and obviously hadn't been successful."

The whole area reminds me of La Tourista areas around The Grand Canyon. Constant tour buses not only doing the Ring of Kerry but also ones transporting all those "tour people" to local hotels and motels lining the roads outside. I'm happy we went; we won't be going back anytime soon--and I've hiked The Bright Angel trail in the Grand Canyon three times and put up with tourists there, so that should you tell you something.

3) Kenmare or Killarney? We had stayed in Kenmare before eons ago, but I had worried the town would not be lively enough this time for our goal to search out good Trad Music and had gone with Killarney. My husband thinks we made a mistake, but I told him, "We don't know how many wall-to-wall Americans are there right now, so we have no way to judge." In other words, I'm not helpful. We had spent so little time in the actual town even 20 years ago. We did LOVE cycling the Beara Peninsula then. We cycled the climb to Healy Pass and also worked our way out of the area over the Caha Pass. Fun. Sigh.

4) Skellig Michael landing tour I hope everything works out. I'm a birdwatcher and going out to the islands was a real hope of mine in my trip planning. The possibility that weather could so easily wipe out our plans, especially because we needed transport there as non-drivers, meant I had to scotch it. I asked our local guide, Mary G., what she thought of my original plan. She agreed that with our time and transport limitations, we could not have done it. One bad weather warning could have wiped out all sails for the day. But she said--and I heartedly concurred--that if we had been willing to stay TWO nights, we would have had a good shot. Quite frankly, we liked the little town of Portmagee. Being stuck there didn't seem awful. Your kids, though? Hmmm.

5) Skipping Galway. Hmm, actually I think this will be the place your kids will most enjoy. We've been three times, twice when kids were ages they could not drink. They adored it then; they'd adore it now. Touristy? Americans? Yeah--but not like Killarney. You could let the kids just walk and explore away. But I have to present what we, even our kids, are like as tourists--our favorite thing to do in Paris is plop at a cafe and watch what everyone else is doing. Galway has that FEEL.
At least it did last June. Note: While we had zillions of conversations with locals there, I only had one pub conversation with Americans there, a honeymoon couple. Cute.
And yeah, we took a walking tour with some Canadians.
And yeah, we talked to a Vancouver couple at Kirwan's Seafood Restaurant, having dinner at the bar like us, but their desire to mix with locals was exactly like ours. We four were soon chatting with a local Irish couple.

4) Westport. I suggest you take it off the itinerary for now. We had a great time there this past June, but that was because we fell in with evil companions and because we do endless Trad Music in pubs (your kids can't attend). I suggest you devote more time to Connemara. The scenery in Connemara is EDIBLE. Do more there in various ways (hiking, cycling) to take it in.

Good luck planning! I know it's hard to be The Trip Goddess. But then again, if I allowed my husband to plan...
AZ

June 2023 Ireland Trip Report Ireland Portion starts at Post #17

FYI--I do have a "return to Ireland" trip report from 2005ish that covers Doolin, Galway, Connemara somewhere on the forum, but it's not indexed. I had posted as a guest, which they allowed back then. But 2005 is SO outdated, I'm leery of even posting a link if I somehow find it.

bvlenci

I visited Inis Mór 19 years ago, in June. It was indeed crowded, but there were no tour buses; as a matter of fact, almost no motor vehicles. 19 years later, and in August, I can imagine it would be chaotic.

I suggest you go to one of the other Aran islands. Inis Oirr is the closest to Doolin, and is the smallest. I visited Inis Oirr in 1986, so maybe it would be crowded now, but I don't think it's much visited. You could easily walk from one end to the other. It was a magical landscape, and we were three of about 10 tourists on the island. A young girl, about 10 years old, was on the ferry with us, because her father was going to the island. She took a fancy to my children. Her father spent hours in the bar, and she took us to her favourite spots on the island. People there spoke Irish.

Inis Oirr has a renowned traditional music bar. You would have to spend the night to hear the music, but I don't know that I would spend 24 hours on such a small island. Maybe you could go in the afternoon and leave in the morning.

I've never been to Inis Meain, the least-visited island. This might be a good choice for spending the night, and seeing unspoiled Irish traditional culture.

This website has a wealth of information about the islands, including ferry schedules and accommodation.

https://www.aranislands.ie/

The Connemara is extremely beautiful, and Westport is charming, but I agree that your teens would probably enjoy Galway most of all.

CardiganCorgi

Thank you so much bvlenci, this is great and thoughtful info. Your evocative description of Inis Oirr is sort of how I remember my visit to the Aran Isalnds in 1991 with my parents. Just kind of magical. And it was the opposite of touristy which seems cheeky to be worried about as a tourist but just is not our preference. It sounds like it may be very different in 2024. I will look more at the site you gave thanks again for the insight.

CardiganCorgi

Thank you much AlessandraZoe, this is just exactly the insight I was hoping for, you have made so many good points and just really helped clarify things in my mind. You have a wonderful writing style and this was such a pleasure to read as well. My itinerary may now change a bit. I had booked Inis Mor but had to book 2 nights minimum which I wasn’t thrilled about. We did the “glamping” place (only one fully cancelable) which would have us all in bunk beds—I may be too old for that! I’m thinking of now perhaps skipping Inis Mor because it really just sounds so different from what I experienced back in 1991. Perhaps we will do a night in Galway then instead as you touched on. I remember when I was in college really liking Galway a lot, I think it was my favorite of the Irish cities. I also will skip Westport and do Clifden as a base for the end of the trip. Thank you again for the above brilliant advice and your trip report link. It is hard to plan!, I cannot relinquish it because of my ahem “control issues” ;-)

AlessandraZoe

How kind of you to thank bvlenci and me. You won't believe the number of people who don't think to do so. And you are very welcome to the advice.

I was discussing your trip with my husband last night over dinner (at a bar, of course ) We related to your kids' ages so much. Our daughters were 4 1/2 years apart and great travel companions. As I told you, he was the man "on the loose" in Killarney. He said that Galway was still the place where, as a couple, we could have a "set-down" on a sidewalk cafe and let the kids loose to have their own exploration, which is always what we did in Paris. He felt Killarney had NOTHING to offer in that way. We both agree--we loved the entire Killarney scenery once we got out of the tourist fray.

I don't know what Clifton has to offer these days, so don't go by me. We (the girls and I) had stayed at a little B&B with our cycling group for one (maybe two) night, and of course, I could not do pubs with them there. Our mussels in cream at a local eatery were first class, and I remember a great bakery. Our cycling group then moved out to Roseleague Manor for a few days because that was a good location to do all the cycling routes. Do check those out.

We cycled again later with a more "upscale" biking company, and they had us in Ballynahinch. Cute place, but just not the "real deal." But they moved us to Roseleague later on, too.

So your investigation should continue!

So wishing you well (because these were the happiest years of our lives),
AZ

janisj

I just have one very quick comment (others have addressed the crowds/changes over the years)

I would not drive to Kerry the first day. Jet lag, micro sleeps, 'wrong side of the road' driving, and the initially confusing road signage with the Irish place names displayed on top could all lead to problems and maybe even disaster. I'd Stay the first night near the airport and collect the car the morning of day 2.

coral22

What a lovely anniversary! You are making beautiful memories. Are your kids boys or girls? What do they like to do? Do they have an "always on the go style" or a "sleep in and go with the flow approach?"

Janisj, I had just pulled up the map, thinking that is too far to be driving after the flight, and I completely agree with you, it is.
So spend the night in Shannon and get your car in the morning. There are billboards everywhere stating driving tired is the same as driving drunk, I don't think they would have invested in those if it wasn't an issue.

In regards to Killarney, we were there in May 2022, and it was delightful! We hardly saw a tour bus and it wasn't crowded at all. But August will be different. I think the town does have enough to do, but I would recommend staying at The Lake Hotel. It has its own serene location right before you get to the main busy drag, which is where your hotel is.It has plenty of things to do on site and you could eat any meal there. It also has easy access to Killarney Park, Torc Falls, Muckross House and Muckross Abbey. I think being in Killarney would give you a jump on the Gap of Dunloe and other sites before the crowds show up. Then you can head into town for dinner when it has clear out a little.

https://www.lakehotelkillarney.ie

Then heading into Dingle, I would stay in the middle of town, it is so fun and charming. We stayed at Pax House and LOVED it. The views are gorgeous, the rooms are luxurious and the breakfast is sublime. But it is definitely a couples spot, and very low key, I think your kids would be bored there. Going into town for dinner was a little bit of a hike and coming back on the dark road afterward was challenging after having some cocktails. I think they would have more fun wandering around from right in the middle of town.

I don't have experience with the Aran Islands, but I imagine the crowds could be unpleasant. If I went, I would definitely stay at least one night, leaving from Rossaveel. And then I would stay in Galway at least 2 nights. The town is delightful and the waterfront is beautiful, it seems bike riding would be great there and I think there are 2 beach areas that could be a nice change. Enjoy!

CardiganCorgi

Thank you so much janisj that is great advice regarding driving. We certainly want to be safe and be well rested on the roads. Much appreciate your kind suggestion!

AlessandraZoe

JanisJ and coral22 are right about driving to Kerry right out of the gate from Shannon. It is a haul. I wasn't looking at that at all. Even though we never drove in Ireland, we'd never consider hopping on a cycle down the street within 24 hours.

Do you want to rearrange your Ennis Old Ground Hotel stay for the first night? That's certainly doable and logistically perfect. It's where we stayed our very first night ever on Irish ground. We've stayed at Bunratty before, too. The touristy Folk Park actually is pretty cute. At least it's a place that ADMITS it's touristy.

Egads, I know this type of planning switch-up will be driving you nuts. As Trip Goddess to Trip Goddess, I am so sympathetic.
----------------------------------------------
And yes, as to your remarks, my husband, a quite intelligent, productive, and kind man, will NEVER ever get to plan a trip unless I am both mentally and physically incapacitated. He planned our Toronto honeymoon. I did not mind the destination (I really like Toronto). It's just that he didn't have a clue as to how one visited a city.
It was the last trip he ever planned. Even when he planned just one day in Rome because I was in "touring exhaustion" mode, instead of ending up at the Colisseum, he walked us instead to Travestere and had no clue that he had done so.

The family rule became "When Mom needs a break, one of us (our daughters) will lead." Hey, it worked.

CardiganCorgi

AllessandraZoe Oh that is wonderful to hear your husband’s recollections too, they add even more color to your lovely description of time there with your girls. We have just made room for us to be in Galway City for 2 nights right on Eyre Square. I am so grateful for your kind assistance, thank you!

Ha! I just saw your newer response! Yes Ennis may be in the wrong direction for us initially, so maybe not but will consider. Was in Ennis the night before leaving SNN on a trip once and loved it so that was my thinking. I hope my daughter loves trip planning as much as I do, it’s so fun!

CardiganCorgi

Thank you so much coral22, this is so helpful. This was amazing to read… I have to tell you I was delighted to see what you wrote about where to stay—I had already booked the Lake House in Killarney thinking it sounded lovely to walk around! And then, lo and behold, you mention Pax House which is where I booked in Dingle! It just looked and sounded like a special place and we let John know we have teens and have nearby rooms. I have a 16YO son and 14YO daughter and they are quiet and should not be bothersome (actually for the most part they are quiet, though they do carp with each other a bit on long road trips!). Good to know about the road back, something to consider. I just really liked the look and feel of Pax House so May keep it. Anyway, thank you for the tips, they are much appreciated!

coral22

Yes, you will love Pax House, John is wonderful! I was just concerned your kids would think it was boring, but you will be out and about all day so it will be fine. And, hey, it is your anniversary and you will enjoy the ambiance. In terms of getting back at night, you could always walk and take a cab back, or one night we just drove into town and back, it is not far.


You had mentioned the Park Hotel in Killarney, and that is on the busy main drag. I am so glad you booked the Lake Hotel, instead.

CardiganCorgi

Aww that’s great to hear Coral22 yes, I had the Killarney Park but couldn’t get it for the whole stay so do the Lake Hotel, so nice to hear that sounds like it was the right call. I am excited about the Pax House, and we were lucky enough to book the Cedar Terrace room as one of our rooms, which appears to have a small balcony with a view! So excited to have “A Room with a View” (one of my favorite books/movies) in the very special Dingle —

janisj

"In terms of getting back at night, you could always walk and take a cab back"

In mid August it will be light until after 9PM (sunset around 8:45 PM) so unless you are staying out pretty late, anyplace one could walk to -- they can walk back from no problem.