mkosseim

My husband are I planning a trip to Portugal at the end of May/early June. We're meeting up with friends near Lagos on June 2, and we'd like to visit Porto and the Douro Valley before June 2. We are 59 and 70, pretty active, enjoy walks and hikes and not too difficult bike rides, gorgeous scenery, good food, history, train and boat rides, and soaking up the local culture. We don't like huge crowds. We are interested in a wine tasting / vineyard tour, but probably only one or two over the course of the days in Douro Valley. Here is what we're thinking:

1. Fly from Newark to Porto on the night of May 27
2. Stay 2 nights in Porto
3. Morning of May 30 rent a car from Porto and drive to a Quinta/hotel in the Douro Valley, staying 3 nights
4. Morning of June 2: drive from Quinta in Douro Valley to Lagos. (I realize it's a 6-7 hour drive, but since we don't have a ton of days, we'd prefer not to change hotels between Douro valley and Lagos).

Since my husband especially LOVES trains, we are thinking of taking the train out to Pinhao from Porto on our second day in Porto, and then back to Porto for dinner.

General feedback on itinerary?
Lodging suggestions in Porto? I've seen Porto Bay Flores, Intercontinental, Infante Sagres, Vignette Collection Casa da Companhia. These are a little pricey for us... anything a little less expensive that you'd recommend?
Lodging suggestions in Douro valley?
What is not to miss in Douro?

Obrigado!
Mona from southwestern Connecticut, US

rialtogrl

If you are spending three nights in the Douro Valley, it does not make a lot of sense to take the train there and back beforehand. Better to arrive in the Douro Valley and take the train from Pinhão to Pocinho and back as a day trip in the valley, if the times work ok.

‘Porto is a victim of its own success and accommodation is crazy expensive now. I usually stay in apartments (Old Stone Flats in Ribeira) but if you post your budget I’m sure you’ll get some suggestions.

mkosseim

Thanks for the suggestion @rialtogrl about the train within Douro valley -- makes much more sense! (head slap).

Re our budget for lodging in Porto: Up to 175 - 200 euro a night. I normally prefer boutique hotels, but given just 2 nights, and frankly to take advantage of some points I have, I'm considering the Marriott Renaisance Porto Lapa Hotel. It looks to be about 20 minutes walk from old town, which we're fine with. Any big red flags about this property?

Maribel

As rialtogrl says, "If you are spending three nights in the Douro Valley, it does not make a lot of sense to take the train there and back beforehand. Better to arrive in the Douro Valley and take the train from Pinhão to Pocinho and back as a day trip in the valley, if the times work ok."

For the views, do try to take the scenic train from Pinhâo to Pocinho.
For your stay in the Douro Valley, I would choose the Quinta de la Rosa right outside of Pinhâo or a bit further on, the Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros, which are both easy to access with a car, without hills to climb and sharp turns.

I've been pricing Porto hotels recently for the early summer, and those on Rua das Flores and Aliados, many you mention above, have become very, very, very pricey, as rialtogrl notes. It's just crazy!

But for your first visit to Porto, I wouldn't stay at the Marriott Renaissance Porto Lapa, as it just isn't central. The Marriott branded Porto hotels just aren't handy for the first time visitor.

To stay under your 200 euro/day budget, either the apartments that rialtogrl mentions or the Chic and Basic Gravity. The latter gets a solid 9.1 rating on booking.com, and it's new. The deluxe w/balcony rooms should fit your budget.

rialtogrl

I have stayed at Quinta de La Rosa many times and the best thing is the view. In May I went to see Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros and I was blown away… from the front it is not much but the gardens in back - wow! It’s magical back there. And I loved the vibe. Plus it’s walking distance to my favorite port cellar, the quirky Quinta do Infantado. Quinta de La Rosa is closer to Pinhão, if you want to be able to walk there for tasting or meals.

if you want to do something close to Pocinho in between train trips, you could check out the prehistoric drawings in the Côa Valley or the museum. You have to book visits to the drawings and you go in with an archaeologist. The restaurant in the museum is pretty good too. More info here - https://arte-coa.pt

Maribel

rialtogrl,
How does one get to the drawings from the Pocinho train station?

The reason I ask: Since we're living here now, we're planning to drive over to Castelo Rodrigo and stay at the Casa da Cisterna, whose hostess gives dusk tours of the Côa Valley from the inn.

But if there are taxis available (???) at the tiny Pocinho station or if one could order one in advance (???), we could also access the museum at least from the train trip Pinhão to Pocinho on our next Douro trip.

Michael

Depending on how far up the Douro valley you are staying, the guided tour of petroglyphs in Fos de Côa may interest you:

rialtogrl

There should be taxis, but I’m not sure if they can be pre-booked. I’m sure the museum staff can answer that question and probably has on a gazillion occasions. I don’t think you would want to go by taxi to the drawings, because you need to go in with a guide. More likely to Castelo Melhor (where there is a visitors center) to meet the guide, or to the museum. But I’m honestly not 100% sure as I’ve never taken a taxi myself.

Having said that, I’ve always wanted to visit the drawings at night… magic!

mkosseim

Thank you all for the great tips!

I've just booked lodging at Chic and Basic Gravity in Porto. Looks great.

I will check out both the Quinta de la Rosa and the Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros. The latter looks particularly nice -- I like that it is set apart from the road as well.

The prehistoric drawings look fabulous.

Again thanks!

maitaitom

I stayed at Quinta de la Rosa and Quinta do Pego last year. Both excellent.

Check out Chapters 14 - 16 of trip report below (with photos).

https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/portugal-2022/

skatedancer

We stayed at Chanceleiros this May. Absolutely magical!! Loved it! And we took wonderful hikes right from the hotel (really we just took the same route twice but it was so incredible and we did some deviations along it). The only wine tour we did was indeed the one right across the street at Infanto do Sagrado: we were the only ones and the owner spent hours with us, including serving us a lunch he had cooked himself. The breakfasts were phenomenal, the dinners a little mixed, sometimes wonderful, sometimes just okay. Dinners are optional but it was fun to stay in for them. We also ordered lunch by the pool twice, just simple salads but so fresh and just the most wonderful setting! The owner designed and cares for the gardens herself, and did the restoration of the building (IIRC originally to have as their family home and eventually turning it into a hotel). Truly a work of art. Quite an interesting history of how she got there and what she has done with the place.

We had plans to do more in the area, but once we settled in at Chanceleiros it was not worth budging away. We went into Pinhao to do the boat ride and have lunch at Cozinha da Clara (at Quinta de la Rosa): that was a spectacular meal.

No ideas for Porto because we stayed at Casa da Companhia. I found Porto the hardest place to figure out where to stay. Sorry that it's gotten so pricey. It is a fantastic place to stay.

I am also from Southwestern CT!

Maribel

Thanks so much rialtogrl
You´re right, of course, that the museum probably answers that question a gazillion times! Didn't think of that!

I think we'll try to stay at the Casa de Cisterna in Castelo Rodrigo and take the night tour from there that the hostess offers. Or drive to Castelo Melhor and take the tour that Marco of Ambieduca offers.

mkosseim

Thanks skatedancer! I've just confirmed 3 nights at Chanceleiros. We're so excited! And appreciate your commentary on meals, hikes, and activities. We're staying 3 nights... and now I wish we could stay longer... Another trip

I live in Stamford; lived in Riverside for 20+ years, and moved to Stamford as empty nesters. Where are you?

rialtogrl

Marco is a wonderful guide. Here is a link to his company if anyone needs it.
Home - Default - AMBIEDUCA

kja

I've been assured that there are taxis there.

ms_go

This is a very timely post! Thanks for posting and to those who have contributed. We are resurrecting a trip that we had to cancel in 2020 and will spend a few nights in the Douro Valley. We had planned to stay at Quinta do Vallado in 2020, and I recall discussing that with Maribel. This time, we've booked Chanceleiros - in part after reading this and a few other discussions.

Maribel

ms_go,
Yes!! So glad you booked at the Chanceleiros; you'll have a great time!

Maribel

kia and rialtogrl,
I too have been assured there are taxis.

The email response from the museum regarding my inquiry re taxis at Pocinho rail-
"Good afternoon!
Normally there is always a taxi driver waiting for the arrival of each train, but we send you the information (in attach) about the transportation companies in the region, in Portuguese, to check with them.
Remember to add the number +351 to each phone number.
We are happy to provide any further information you may need."

I've also emailed [email protected] to inquire about approximate price.

kja

Thanks, Maribel. I wonder -- can you post the telephone numbers?

Maribel

Hi kia,
I can't find the phone number for Taxis Rui Calvo:

The address-
Táxi Rui CalvoR. de Moçambique, 18, 5150-633 Vila Nova de Foz Côa, Portugal
The Facebook page, but it's not updated (surprise, surprise, lol)
https://www.facebook.com/p/TAXIS-Poc...0054202553547/

Here's another with a phone number. +351 964 051 035
https://taxis-pocinho.business.site

Here's an article about the museum by a Portuguese travel writer that I follow
https://nelsoncarvalheiro.com/coa-va...​​