ekscrunchy

I'm planning to return to the Costa de la Luz, near Vejer, in March. I have about 5-6 days prior to my stay there to explore somewhere else. Since I've only been to Cordoba once, about 40 years ago, that city seems like a good idea for me. (Alternatively, I'm tempted to return to Jerez, where I spend a wondrous 3 nights last year). I'm open to any options within easy reach of Vejer.

I hope to spend a few days in Madrid before returning home, after my Vejer stay. So I wanted to avoid having to come into the city twice, but it looks as if the train from Madrid is the best way to reach Cordoba, since the city has no airport.

SO: Looking for a great hotel in Cordoba. Hospes Palacio de Bailio looks great but I wonder if it is too far from the main "sights?" If you've stayed there, do you recommend? And if not that hotel, where else might suit?

Just as important, I'm looking for restaurants/bars in the city. Far back, its reputation for dining was not the best but it looks as if things have changed quite a bit in recent years. I've long had NOOR marked down but in general, I like a la carte rather than tasting menus.

Lots of talk on this forum about LA REGADERA. And I like the idea of the roast meats at TABERNA DE ALMODOVAR, but I'm open to anything, really. Prefer dinners to lunches if I have my choice.

From Cordoba I need to pick up my rental car at Jerez airport....if I have time, might stay a couple of nights in Jerez itself but how to get there from Cordoba? (It's a 3-hour drive which is a little long for me to do alone but I could chance it...or maybe stop someplace interesting overnight between Cordoba and Jerez???? (For me, Sevilla is not a one-night stand, so I've eliminated this as much as I adore the city).

Please give any and all tips or advice....they will be welcomed!!

Maribel

hi ekscruncy,
No, the Palacio de Bailío isn't too far. I was just there this past winter, before meeting you, and I walked up from the Judería. It's Córdoba's luxury hotel, private, serene, with indoor pool, Arbequina restaurant (Michelin recommended), lovely terrace, a member of Mr. and Mrs. Smiths, I-escape and Tablet Hotels. I can't promise that you'll love it as much as the Casa Palacio in Jerez but it has all the bells and whistles.

I have some Córdoba suggestions on Ziggy;s Hungry Onion thread, "Andalucía anyone".
Recently, the Ermita de la Candelaria, for updated traditional in a lovely setting, a former hermitage, the Taberna El Pisto for the Córdoban classics, La Cuchara de San Lorenzo (a Bib Gourmand), Garum 2.0 for one of the city's best salmorejos (very casual, tapas style), Terra Flea (another Bib Gourmand), La Casa de Manolete Bistró, housed in a beautiful mansion, the former home of the late matador Manolete, a contemporary bistrot (Michelin rec) .

If you want to go to Noor, it's tasting menu only. I've been three times to the chef's casual place in the modern quarter, El Bar de Paco Morales, and everything I've had there has been a bit hit. Very, very popular and must reserve. I got luck the last time grabbing an empty seat at the bar. Paco sometimes makes an appearance at lunch time.

La Regadera on the river walk is also casual and gets a steady stream of visitors due to its location.

From Córdoba to Jerez, either train (some trains are direct, others have a train change) or drive, stopping for an overnight in Carmona, which has a nice Parador (I've stayed there).

Maribel

About el Bar de Paco Morales, which I love:
signature dishes, classic but with an updated, very creative twist: ajo blanco, papas aliñás, salmorejo topped with mozzarella foam and pine nuts, flamenquín (made in a different way with a roasted green pepper), roasted chicken croquettes (from his parents' asador), a mini baguette of calamares in a brioche bun, charcoal grilled bone marrow with tuna and almonds, tomato tartar. For dessert, orange sorbet with ginger and mint. He's constantly updating his menu with new creations, so you may not find all of these. Let your server be your guide.
https://elbardepacomorales.com/

It used to be named "Nanita Bar" but the locals told him to change it, to put his name on the place. Very, very popular with locals.

We'll be in Córdoba right before Holy Week, so unfortunately we'll miss you!

Several typos, including ekscrunchy
My day has been very hectic and my brain somewhat foggy.

Carmona info,
https://turismo.carmona.org/en/

halfapair

We stayed at Hospes Palacio de Bailio and easily walked to all the main sites in Cordoba. We only stayed one night - I wish we could have stayed at least three. The breakfast was fresh, beautiful, and delicious. And as I recall, the floor in the breakfast room was interesting, too.
We did take a taxi from the train station to the hotel, and they arranged a taxi to take us back to the train station.
Definitely recommend Hospes Palacio de Bailio.

Maribel

ekscrunchy,
Also the Palacio del Bailío is a Virtuoso selection. I remember that you've used Virtuoso hotels in the past.

studenttobe

I can only say that thanks to Maribel's excellent advice we will be staying at Hospes Palacio de Bailio for three nights at the end of Nov-start of December. I am happy to report back after we return. But I am VERY excited to stay there. I read pages of reviews and room tips on Booking.com as well. The staff have been lovely in my bit of correspondence with them regarding room type (as privacy and esp quiet are important to us--DH is a light sleeper) and a specific request (to have a kettle in our room, in addition to the Nespresso machine that is in every room).

halfapair

Feeling jealous!!

Maribel

ekscunchy,
Yesterday at the EU leaders' summit in Granada, the 2-Michelin starred Paco Morales was in charge of the gala dinner, for the European leaders and Zelenski, held at the Parador de San Francisco in the Alhambra.

These are the chef's own suggestions for dining in Córdoba
https://elpais.com/gastronomia/2023-...o-morales.html

ekscrunchy

Thanks to all! Maribel you are my star!

Will definitely book at the Hospes. Will return with more questions once I settled the dates.....the Cordoba part will likely be the first stop, so about 1 March arrival, or close to that....

mike1728

Currently in your prized Vejer area now. Left Cordoba about 12 days ago. Just a suggestion, but if you cross over the Roman bridge away from the old part of town you will find several quality restaurants without the tourists and the overpriced tourist menus. Just solid neighborhood restaurants full of locals.

adlmllr

mike1728, do you have any specific recommendations in that area? based on one of your prior posts, we've reserved an apartment on *that* side of the bridge, so it would be lovely to have a dinner or late lunch in the neighborhood!

mike1728

Yes,
highly recommend Sala Flamenca Ana Rodriguez (Calle Acera San Julian) read the reviews and check out the photos on Google Maps. Busy, popular place of locals, loud, but great atmosphere, and a wonderful menu. But our favorite establishment in which we ate three times was Bar Seneca (Calle Algazel). Again, check out the reviews and photos on GMaps. In a small neighborhood it’s a no frills loud, busy restaurant. But it’s a great atmosphere, the employees are very friendly and the food is delicious with very reasonable prices. Both restaurants are about a 10 min walk from the Roman Bridge on the Torre de la Calahora side of the bridge. For your apartment needs check out Deza supermarket (Carre. de Castro). Great medium sized market with fresh foods and a nice bakery and butcher.
Coffee every morning was at Cafe LLENKA. Very nice family run establishment for your Cafe con leche and pane with tomato and olive oil.

Maribel

Thanks mike1728,
And Bar Seneca is even Repsol Guide recommended, with a "solete". It's been in the same family for 3 generations. Closed Wednesday.

ekscrunchy

Thanks, Mike. Where are you near Vejer? Any great meals around there? Where are you staying if you don't mind saying..?

Maribel

I think mike's in Zahara de los Atunes, right, mike? Where Antonio is located out towards Atlanterra? We'd love to know the places you like in central Zahara!

ekscrunchy

Yes! Please.

Maribel do you know when Antonio re-opens in the spring, by any chance? I have a date in mid-March marked on my calendar for 2024; no. idea where I came across the information so far in advance (I must have written it months ago!) but I certainly hope they will be open for most of my time there...I have booked 8-21 March.

Maribel

I checked our emails back and forth (I have an eskcunchy file. ), and I believe they told you they would open on March 15, 2024, although that could change. Seems like you'll be able to dine there during your stay!

"Restaurante Antonio tiene prevista su apertura en 2024 el 15 de Marzo, aunque es una fecha que podría variar."

mike1728

Maribel is correct. We are in Zahara de los Atunes but sadly leave tomorrow after 11 wonderful days of pure sunshine, temps in the low 80’s with a gentle breeze. Ocean water is like swimming in a lake it’s so warm. Crowds are thin this type of year so the village is fairly quiet and there are long stretches of the beach with hardly a soul in sight. Although the Retinto Festival is October 11-15 so the village will be jam packed as most of the restaurants compete for the best Retinto based dish/tapas award. Eks, this a must for a “foodie”. As for the restaurants, I believe the majority of them are super quality especially those (95%) that are fish based. Spaniards drive for hours to enjoy the tuna based dishes. I say I believe, because we don’t eat seafood (I know crazy with the freshest seafood in Zahara). We enjoy Retinto based tapa and so we drive over to Barbate, (10 min drive) for smaller tapa portions. The restaurants in Zahara tend to be more full plates. Our apartment which is purely magical has one the best terraces in Zahara to view the beach and so we buy at the local butcher/markets for our food needs and eat Al fresco from our deck. On a clear day we view all of Barbate, Vejer, the Trafalger Lighthouse and Morocco, not to mention 6 miles of the incredible beach. And the sunsets here are legendary and again people travel here from other villages just to hang on the beach and watch the sunset. The apartment is on the VRBO sight with the title “Enjoy stunning sea views from this gorgeous sea front apartment”.

Maribel

mike,
You're so lucky with the weather. From my perch it's still hot as Hades. I read about the Retinto festival going on soon and wish I were there. You've found your paradise!
And what a cute ocean front apartment, a great find!

Maribel

Speaking of Retinta cows, have you seen them slowly meandering around Bolona? Here's a funny picture of one commandeering a bather's sunbrella on Bolonia Beach.

https://www.diariodesevilla.es/masco...588641830.html