lrice

Hi all,

I am having analysis paralysis ... and can't decide between a few apartments in Madrid for myself, my husband, and 4 adult children (23,24, 27, 33).

We plan to spend three days seeing the Prado, the Arte Reina Sofia, the Royal Palace, El Retiro Park, Casa Dani at Mercado de la Paz and go to some tapas bars in Las Letras. We are assuming it will be too cold to sit outside this time of year. We all fly back to the U.S. on New Year's Day.

The three apartments I have found are on:
1. Plaza Santa Ana in Las Letras
2. Calle de los Madrazo (A boring central residential street between Puerta del Sol and Paseo del Prado)
3. Paseo del Prado near Calle de Atocha across from the Botanical Garden

There also is Roommate Alba in Las Letras and I just read about the 7 Islas Hotel, one of the last family-run hotels in Madrid: https://www.7islashotel.com/

Does anyone have any thoughts on these?

Thanks in advance!

indyhiker

We’ve stayed twice in apartment just a few doors down from Roommate Alba (just steps away from Plaza de Santa Ana) and have really enjoyed the centrality of it. It’s an easy walk to the things you want to see. Lots of lively activity. It’s sort of on the edge of a more heavily touristed area, but go off in other directions and it feels much more local.

Revulgo

Plaza de Santa Ana is too noisy; IMO Paseo del Prado across the Botanical Garden is not the best stretch of Paseo del Prado. I would go for the one on Calle Los Madrazo, its location is excellent within walking distance to the main sights. Instead of seeing it as "boring", I see it as "quiet" something highly valued at night in the crowded Christmas season.

lrice

Thank you IndyTraveler and Revulgo!

I am thinking that locals and tourists won't be sitting outside in cafes or milling around in plazas at night because it will be cold at the end of December. Am I wrong about that?

Revulgo

Wrong. The locals sit at the sidewalk tables year-round because they love the terraces. Some terraces also have heaters.

MadridProfessor

Out of the 4 locations Plaza de Santa Ana would be my choice.

Maribel

I agree completely with Revulgo about the noise level on the Plaza Santa Ana, especially in the late evening, early morning hours (my family and I have been guilty of adding to that noise level at midnight on a weekend). it's surrounded by terraces. You would want absolute assurance that the room/s facing the square have excellent double glazing. The bedrooms may be interior, I would imagine.

I also agree with Revulgo that locals will sit on outdoor terraces, some with heaters and some not, all year long.

And for a third agreement with Revulgo, that stretch of Paseo del Prado across from the Botanical Gardens is not attractive, at least to me, not at all. I would never stay in a hotel or apartment on that stretch for that reason. It's quite a hectic, busy stretch.

I love the Room Mate Alba. I've seen rooms in all categories (an occupational hazard) and even the entry level rooms exude comfort.

Maribel

Lrice,
Is this the apartment you're considering on the Plaza Santa Ana perhaps? (It changed names, used to be the Oboe apartments). If so, the comments from past renters indicate that it was very noisy. I know from past experience of staying on Dec. 31 in a hotel in a street-facing room on the Calle Prado just below Plaza de Santa Ana that you will have quite a bit of revelry in that area into the early morning hours on NYE.

https://tinyurl.com/49yrhjdj.

I do know the 7 Islas location, although I've never stayed there. For me, being just 2 blocks from the always bustling, hectic Gran Vía, it wouldn't be as attractive, but I'm not a big fan of the Gran Vía area in general.

Calle Madrazo is a much quieter location on a small, 3 block long side street in the Las Cortes area, just a short walk from the Museo Thyssen. It´s near one of my favorite moderately priced bistrots, Casa Mortero. And it´s walkable to just about everything and only a block and a half from the Paseo del Prado, the more attractive section of the Paseo del Prado than the section across from the Real Jardín Botánico.

Maribel

Lrice,
Enjoy the Christmas lights, which will be illuminated until Jan. 6, Epiphany. Last year they were just gorgeous--they really pulled out all the stops. I loved the giant illuminated Menina on the Paseo de Recoletos.
We took the Naviluz Christmas Bus from Serrano (the stop is at the large stone monument, next to the MAN Museo Arqueológico Nacional) to see them, and it was warm enough to sit on the upper deck. Tickets sell out very quickly, like hotcakes, as it's a very popular family activity, but the bus doesn't run on Jan. 5, due to the Kings' Parade. I adore Madrid during the holiday season, such a festive time.

https://www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on/christmas-bus.

lrice

Thanks so much Revulgo, MadridProfessor and Maribel!

And Maribel! So glad to see you here!! It has been a bit!

We need a 3-bedroom apartment. This is the one run by MintyStay on Plaza Santa Ana. Is Plaza Santa Ana in Barrio Las Letras?

It looks like the green bedroom faces the street and we could give that to the 23-year-old. https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/2395908...4-8b23ffc6760e

I just found another apartment with two balconies that overlook Plaza de Chueca but I gathered from this forum that Barrio Las Letras is more charming, filled with oodles of cafes and coffee shops, and pedestrian cobblestone streets ...

The apartment on Calle Madrazo also has two balconies. But it just overlooks the quiet street -- although looking at somewhat pretty buildings with iron balconies.

While the Prado, the Arte Reina Sofia, the Royal Palace, El Retiro Park, and now the Christmas Bus are our priorities, we definitely want to enjoy sitting at charming cafes, bars, and restaurants. Hoping to make our way to La Raquetista!

Maribel

Hi Irice,
Yes, Plaza Santa Ana is in the Barrio de las Letras, aka Huertas. The official barrio name is Cortes, but people usually refer to it as Letras or Huertas (Huertas is also a street in the barrio).

For me the Barrio de las Letras is more charming, with cute boutiques, shops, while the area around Plaza de Chueca, I would call a bit more "urban gritty", although Chueca is filled with many reasonably priced bistrots.
I enjoyed recent meals in Chueca at La Llorería, Taberna La Carrmencita (charming, tile filled, 2nd oldest in city), La Burbujería, Haranita, Arallo Taberna and there´s Comparte Bistró, a Michelin Bib Gourmand.

If the Calle Madrazo has two balconies, you won't have as much street noise, as it's such a short street not lined with pubs, bars, outdoor terraces.

Just around the corner on Marqués de Cubas, past the Hotel NH Casa de Suecia (with a rooftop terrace open to the public), you´ll have the Círculo de Bellas Artes, both with a large and popular ground floor outdoor terrace and a huge rooftop terrace run by the Azotea group. It's called the Azotea del Círculo de Bellas Artes, which as gorgeous 360 degree views and is one of the city's most popular rooftop terraces. It will be open during the holidays but not sure about the hours. So you will have those outdoor cafes, rooftop bars for a cocktail. And remember my favorite, Casa Mortero (great croquetas), a 2-min. walk away.

It's not that far to walk from there to these restaurants in Letras:
Vinoteca Moratín, A Mano, Alimentación Quiroga, Casa González (a great deli with back dining room, popular prices, nice wine list), Taberna Elisa and Triciclo, Ocafú Taberna Gallega, Cervecería Cervantes for canapés, Casa Alberto for trad fare and vermouth on tap.

From either the Santa Ana or the Madrazo apartments, you can also walk up to the Galería Canalejas (next to the Four Seasons), which has a large gourmet food court in the basement with lots of dining options, from paella at St James, to Galician at Taberna Garelos to burgers, poke, dim sum and sushi. Something for every taste.

My favorite holiday activity, besides gazing at the pastry shop display windows with their Christmas treats, like King Cakes on display, is to go to the iconic LHARDY (from 1839) for a cup of consomé and a plate of croquetas de cocido in the downstairs deli. It´s a tradition. In addition Lhardy sells several interesting flavors of turrón, another Christmas treat.

https://lhardy.com/en/
,
The beauty about the holiday in Madrid--it lasts for 12 days!

The Plaza Santa Ana apartment does look great and the reviews all very solid.

Revulgo

On December 31st, the Reina Sofia, the National Archaeological and the Sorolla museums are closed but the Prado, the Royal Collections Gallery, the Royal Palace and the Thyssen-Bornemisza are open as usual although they close at 2 or 3pm. Weather permitting, the Palacio de Cristal in the Retiro Park is open until 5pm. Starting at 11am, free admission to the Mercadillo del Gato pop-up market at Gran Via 13 where over 50 exhibitors will offer stylish products related to fashion, handcrafts, accessories, cosmetics and costume jewellery. The events on the latest day of the year begin with the San Silvestre Vallecana race, one of the only four 10K races in the world to boast the IAAF Gold Race Running Label. The event consists of two parts, the popular run, up to 40,000 participants which anyone over 16 can take part in, and the international race. It's regarded as a fairly easy competition since 8 of the 10 kilometres are slightly downhill. Although the popular run officially kicks off at 5pm from outside the Real Madrid stadium, it has a wave start, meaning runners start at different intervals. The professional race, which features some of the world's best long-distance runners, starts at 8pm being the finish line inside the Rayo Vallecano stadium.The route goes through some central streets such as Serrano, Alcalá, Plaza de Cibeles and Paseo del Prado. Info and registration: https://sansilvestrevallecana.com/index_en.php

As of 6pm, many stores and bars will begin to close —Mercado San Miguel closes at 7pm— although others will remain open until 8pm. There are always some bars open until dinner time for those little groups of friends or work colleagues who want to socialize in the latest hours of the year. Luxury hotels and trendy restaurants offer gala dinners, but not many classic restaurants open on NYE due to their staff also want to celebrate NYE at home with their families. Open restaurants have a very expensive menu because they have to extra pay the staff to get them to agree to work that night. The quality of the NYE menu is usually not up to its price. Some ethnic restaurants with not expensive menu might also be open. Don't expect to get dinner delivered to your door because delivery will be completely overflowed. Finally, if you want to dine in a classic Spanish restaurant near Puerta del Sol, Los Galayos next to Plaza Mayor, usually offers a NYE dinner, but it is essential to book well in advance. https://www.losgalayos.net/en

In Spain passing from one year to the next is not marked by a second countdown timer but by counting up from the first chime of a clock to the 12th chime. Tradition indicates that with each chime you must eat a grape —something almost impossible to do without the risk of choking— If achieved, the twelve "lucky grapes" will bring prosperity for every month of the upcoming year. Some reprehensible cheaters 🙂 peel the grapes in advance and remove the seeds.

Puerta del Sol is the 'times square' of Madrid and the chimes of the turret clock are the ones that 'officially' set the pace for the eating of the grapes. Thousands of people flock to the square to eat the twelve lucky grapes at twelve strokes of the clock and welcome the New Year. However, for security reasons, the capacity is limited to a few thousand people. To avoid the massive influx from the Metro, on the 30th and 31st the Sol metro station will remain closed from 6pm until the end of the service at 1:30 am, although the Metro and Cercanías lines that pass through Puerta del Sol will continue running without the trains stopping at Sol. At 9pm the public is evicted from the square and afterwards the police install barriers at the four access streets —Alcalá, San Jerónimo, Mayor and Arenal— being Preciados and Carmen reserved for exiting. From 9:30pm the police will allow entry the square after checking the bags to prevent unauthorized objects such as firecrackers, glass bottles, flares and other items considered annoying or dangerous. The Civil Protection officers will be counting the people who enter the square and when the maximum capacity allowed for that night is reached, the police prevent the entry of more people. The police will also use drones that evening, SAMUR-Civil Protection will be present with several vehicles and medical devices, there will also be a crew of firefighters and a cleaning team with street sweepers and trucks ready to proceed with a quick cleaning up of the square after the gathering for the chimes.

Days before NYE, the watchmakers of Losada, the firm that made the clock in the 19th century, thoroughly clean and overhaul the clockwork so that everything goes well on NYE. They also rehearse the chimes at 12 midday and 12 midnight on the 30th and at 12 midday on the 31st. These tests informally called 'pre-uvas' have become so popular that lots of people also come to "rehearse" the eating of the grapes and the police at evening have to install the same barriers to control access to the midnight rehearsal on the 30th. Many tourists and families with children use to attend the rehearsal on the 31st at 12 midday. Since the use of grapes is supposed to be reserved for the "genuine" chimes on NYE, jelly beans or similar small trinkets are used. After the last rehearsal on the 31st, the tapas bars near Plaza Mayor become busy from 1pm. These are suggested bars for you to do your own tapas crawl nearby the Plaza Mayor: https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer...eaeiliY6Y5Vrog

Most of the attendees at Puerta del Sol on NYE are tourists from other parts of Spain because the locals use to celebrate the eating of the grapes at home by watching Puerta del Sol on television with the family while, following a superstition, the girls wear red lingerie underneath clothes to attract good luck. At around 11:50 pm on December 31st, RTVE 1 channel, that has been broadcasting the chimes from a balcony since 1962, and other TV channels start their shows live from Puerta del Sol. Since 1911, just a few seconds before midnight, a ball located in the upper part of the tower descends by a manual mechanism to the sound of the carillon. This is followed by the pealing of the bells (four warning tolls) and then, finally, the 12 chimes for your 12 grapes. Since the chimes are hard to hear over the bustle in the square, a knock counter illuminates the building's façade so you can eat each grape at a time with each stroke. Right after the New Year chimes, a neon light close to the clock says happy-new-year and the fireworks are launched, however they are not as spectacular as those in other big cities. Once you’ve managed to swallow the grapes, it's time to kiss and hug everyone within reach and cheers with a glass of 'cava', the champagne-like sparkling wine. After that, the young crowd heads to the pre-booked parties and clubs to dance; in addition, shortly after midnight some cocktail bars re-open in Las Letras neighborhood. At 1am or so will be some traffic jams on the central avenues and the Christmas lights will be on until 6am.The party typically ends at dawn by having chocolate with churros in the cafes open early for that, but the prices are higher than usual.

If you have a TV set in your hotel room or apartment, my advice is to head out on the morning of December 31st or better yet, on the prior day, to stock up on whatever you feel like to indulge yourself in. Bread, cheese, jamón, snacks, canned olives, perhaps smoked salmon and cooked 'langostinos' (king prawns) to accompany with mayonnaise, Xmas sweets such as 'turrón' (nougat) and 'mazapán' (made up with ground almond and sugar), beer cans, a bottle of 'cava' (some well-known brands are Juvé & Camps, Codorniu, Freixenet) and plastic champagne glasses to toast. Don't forget the grapes! (there is a seedless variety). Do not buy the cheapest ones because they are usually hard and its skin is thicker. To make things easier, supermarkets sell "latas de uvas de la suerte", small cans containing twelve peeled grapes for NYE, although the purists argue that only fresh grapes should be used. The well-stocked El Corte Inglés supermarket next to Puerta del Sol (open until 8pm on December 31st) is perfect to cater to all your needs.

lrice

Oh my Revulgo! I am speechless! Thank you so very much for the detail! I am unsure how anyone would navigate this without the detail you laid out here. I think I should've planned more time in Madrid -- so much to see and do! We won't have much free time to meander.

I'm not sure we will really want to go to Puerta del Sol for the midnight celebration. But our 20-something kids may motivate us. If we want to go, do we need a ticket to get admitted in at 9:30 pm? Or do people simply line up?

I like your idea of a wonderful charcuterie platter and a couple bottles of cava and staying in the apartment! That said, we will probably roam the streets and if we don't go to Puerta del Sol, we will at least watch the fireworks from afar.

The Prado, Royal Palace and Reina Sofia are all open from 10am - 3pm on December 31. Do you think we should tackle one of the major sights that day? I guess the weekend will be mobbed so it probably doesn't matter. Crowds crowds everywhere!

Maribel, thank you for the detail on the two apartment areas and for so many restaurant and bar suggestions! I will make reservations for 12/29 and 12/30 for dinner. 9:00 pm?

Sounds like I need to figure out how to spend NY Eve!
.

Revulgo

You don't need a ticket but a lot of patience. First, to get a good place from 9pm at the police barrier to make sure you are one of those admitted to the square and then standing in the square until 12 midnight. I would better go to the rehearsal at 12 noon on the 31st with my gummy jelly (gominolas in Spanish) or my canned grapes. You will see many young people with ridiculous Christmas hats wanting to have a good time.

It's your vacation. Do not feel obligated to "do" the main sights; if you are interested in a museum you choose when to go. Just keep in mind the weekly closing day. I highly recommend the Royal Collections Gallery but it is essential to get the ticket in advance for any day of the week you choose https://tickets.patrimonionacional.e...cciones-reales

Maribel

What we did last NYE in Madrid while staying at our Letras hotel:
We went to the noon rehearsal on Dec. 30 rather than trying to tackle the crowds on NYE and enduring the very long wait.

In lieu of splurging on a gala, blow out dinner (expensive!) at one of the hotel restaurants offering such a NYE tasting menu, we decided to stay "home" and have a self-catered in room "picnic".
We went to the wonderful deli, Casa González, at Calle León 12 in Letras and purchased a charcuterie platter, cheeses, cava (all very well priced), then purchased our bread and grapes at the Mercado de Antón Martín. If you stay in the Plaza Santa Ana apartment, you´ll have both very close by and can avoid the crowds at the El Corte Inglés supermarket.

We watched the San Silvestre Vallecana race on TV then festivities on the Puerta del Sol. We didn't attempt a museum on Dec. 31 because the city was absolutely packed.
If you do want to sightsee that morning/afternoon, as Revulgo suggests, I also highly recommend the new Royal Collections Gallery, but securing a ticket well in advance.

You will definitely need reservations well in advance for restaurant dining on 12/29 and 12/30. 9 pm is fine.
On Dec. 29 we went to La Catapa, with reservations made online a month in advance (or you could also go to La Raquetista nearby but the upstairs dining room has only 5 tables).
On Dec. 30 we dined at Casa Mortero, around the corner from the Museo Thyssen on Calle Zorrilla.
On Dec. 31, because we had purchased "picnic" items for our late NYE dinner in our hotel, we booked a late (3 pm) lunch at my favorite rice restaurant, Berlanga, on Av Menéndez Pelayo for a paella feast, after strolling through Retiro Park with a visit to its Palacio de Cristal.

Revulgo

* Christmas market running from the 19th century on Plaza Mayor. It's old-fashioned and rather tacky compared to other central European Christmas markets, but the locals love to carry on this Christmas tradition of coming to buy some figurines for the "belén" (nativity scene) at home. Open until December 31st from 10am to 9pm https://www.mercadonavidadplazamayor.com/

* Arts and Crafts Fair on Paseo de Recoletos. Exhibition of artisan gift items. The participants include representatives from a wide variety of artisan trades such as ceramicists, costume jewellers, leather goods makers, engravers, artistic glassmakers... Open until December 30th from 11am to 9pm.

* Ice rink at Matadero Madrid. The old Madrid slaughterhouse built at the beginning of the 20th century along the banks of the River Manzanares, is today a cultural hub. The ice rink is open until early January. https://www.mataderomadrid.org/en

* La Navideña on Plaza de España. Little Christmas market offering some crafts and street food stalls, as well as an ice rink, some theatrical shows and circus performances. Open until early January from 12 noon to 9 pm https://www.lanavidena.com/

* Cabalgata de Reyes (Three Kings Parade) running from Plaza San Juan de la Cruz to Plaza de Cibeles. January 5th from 6:30pm https://www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on/three-kings-parade

* Picasso: Untitled. La Casa Encendida displays fifty works from the artist’s last period (1963-1973). Of these, twelve had not been shown to the public until now and twenty-three are being displayed in Spain for the first time. All of them have a title and a new description, proposed by each of the fifty guest artists. La Casa Encendida, Ronda de Valencia 2 Metro Lavapiés and Embajadores. Until January 7th https://www.lacasaencendida.es/en/ex...led-exhibition

* Monet. Masterpieces from the Musée Marmottan Monet. The first major exhibition in Madrid devoted to the French painter Claude Monet, the father of impressionism, featuring more than 50 masterpieces from the Musée Marmottan Monet in Paris. CentroCentro, Plaza de Cibeles. Open until February 25 from 10am to 7pm. https://www.centrocentro.org/en/exhibition/monet

* Sorolla's Summers. This exhibition follows one of the painter's favourite themes: beach scenes. MAPFRE Foundation, Paseo de Recoletos 23. Open until January 7th From 11am to 7pm https://www.fundacionmapfre.org/en/a...e/exhibitions/

Maribel

I've always suspected, Revulgo, that you must be the director of the Madrid Tourist Board, but if not, they certainly should hire you!!
This is great information to know as we plan our Christmas-New Year's-Epiphany holidays in Madrid.

I'm really looking forward to the Monet exhibit.

For opera fans, Rigoletto will be performed at the Teatro Real in late December and Jan. 2.

Revulgo

It's just "seek and find" 🙂

Maribel

Hmm,
Somehow I think it's a bit more than "seek and find", as you have an unusually remarkable "heads up" regarding the very new and noteworthy in Madrid. 🙂

Revulgo

Until June 2024, the new Royal Collections Gallery presents a temporary exhibition entitled "Moving. Vehicles and carriages of Spain's National Heritage". In the exhibition you can see unique pieces due to their beauty and advanced technology for the time, such as the Berlina Dorada (Golden Brougham), from the mid-18th century, the Landó de Bronces (Landau of Bronzes), from 1829, the Coche de Caoba (Mahogany Carriage), the Coche de Concha (Hawksbilly Carriage) or the Coche de Cifras (Monogram Carriage) which belonged to King Carlos IV and Queen María Luisa de Parma. In addition to their historical relevance, the carriages reflect the enormous quality and refined aesthetics of all the artisans who participated in their manufacture: cabinetmakers, sculptors, saddlers, gilders, and even miniaturists. Spain's National Heritage preserves some unique vehicles that are also exhibited in the exhibition, such as Queen Isabella's children's carriage and two richly decorated wooden sleds, one of them in the shape of a dragon, possibly a gift from Czar Alexander III to Alfonso XII. Two Mercedes-Benz automobiles complete the exhibition; one Mercedes-Benz 770 'Grosser Mercedes' model from 1942 and the Mercedes-Benz 540 G4 W131, a six-wheeled armored all-terrain vehicle that Adolf Hitler gave to General Franco in 1940. It is the only collector's item of this model that survived World War II. Mercedes-Benz wanted to buy it at any price for its museum, but Spain's National Heritage did not sell it.