2023 : A Highland Odyssey
#1
Original Poster
2023 : A Highland Odyssey
Over breakfast at our B&B in Glencoe in October of 2017 as our holiday was drawing to a close, my wife and I were recounting our many memorable experiences with our friendly host. I lamented that this trip had set a very high bar for future holidays : how could anything possibly rival the raw, unspoilt beauty of Skye and Mull? Or the adrenaline rush from trekking in Glencoe? Or the sophisticated elegance of cities like Edinburgh or Glasgow? Our host smiled and replied reassuringly “Don’t worry. You haven’t seen anything yet.” Intrigued by this response, I promised we would return.
I spent several months distilling travel forums, websites and guidebooks about the North Coast 500 (“NC500”) – a driving route traversing through the far reaches of the Northern Highlands covering the remotest regions of Easter Ross, Sutherland, Caithness and Wester Ross (Game of Thrones fans, give a cheer!).
Following extensive research, I put together a detailed 3 week driving itinerary taking a counter-clockwise loop along the NC500 with two additional detours – Orkney in the North and the Outer Hebrides in the West. Logistically, this entailed flying into Inverness and out of Glasgow, and renting a vehicle for the entire journey including the islands (serviced by car ferries to and from the mainland). After the heartbreak of cancelling a fully booked holiday in May 2020 courtesy the pandemic, we decided to pull the trigger in May 2023, come Brexit or high water.
I hope to post this trip report in installments over the course of this month, but please bear with me as I'm dealing with an overwhelming backlog of stuff having returned form a 3 week trip (and a potentially problematic tooth, that requires surgery!).
I spent several months distilling travel forums, websites and guidebooks about the North Coast 500 (“NC500”) – a driving route traversing through the far reaches of the Northern Highlands covering the remotest regions of Easter Ross, Sutherland, Caithness and Wester Ross (Game of Thrones fans, give a cheer!).
Following extensive research, I put together a detailed 3 week driving itinerary taking a counter-clockwise loop along the NC500 with two additional detours – Orkney in the North and the Outer Hebrides in the West. Logistically, this entailed flying into Inverness and out of Glasgow, and renting a vehicle for the entire journey including the islands (serviced by car ferries to and from the mainland). After the heartbreak of cancelling a fully booked holiday in May 2020 courtesy the pandemic, we decided to pull the trigger in May 2023, come Brexit or high water.
I hope to post this trip report in installments over the course of this month, but please bear with me as I'm dealing with an overwhelming backlog of stuff having returned form a 3 week trip (and a potentially problematic tooth, that requires surgery!).
#2
Original Poster
Day 1 : Inverness
After a long overnight flight to London (with a tight transit at Heathrow T5 for our Inverness connection (thank God that went OK), we finally arrived in Inverness. Inverness is a pleasant city, which serves a good base for a number of activities and attractions (e.g. Culloden) nearby – and in our case the logical starting point for our NC500 route. We just needed a good night’s rest before picking up our rental car from Arnold Clark to embark on our adventure the next day.
The Inverness town centre
The Market Brae Steps
The Victorian Market
Having visited before, we kept things light and easy - a short stroll around the compact city centre, followed by walking the Ness Islands circuit along the river banks.
Along the River Ness banks
.. we found Nessie !!
Views of Friar's Bridge
The Inverness town centre
The Market Brae Steps
The Victorian Market
Having visited before, we kept things light and easy - a short stroll around the compact city centre, followed by walking the Ness Islands circuit along the river banks.
Along the River Ness banks
.. we found Nessie !!
Views of Friar's Bridge
#3
Original Poster
Day 2 : Dornoch
After breakfast, we were picked up from our accommodation in Church Street by Arnold Clark and taken to their rental office in Harbour Road. After some quick paperwork, we received a near brand new Suzuki Grand Vitara – a two category upgrade over the midsize sedan we had booked. I consciously selected a mid-size car expecting to navigate narrow single track and mountainous roads and squeeze into available parking spaces. However, the car proved a blessing in retrospect with some of the rough terrain and dirt tracks we encountered.
We detoured through the Black Isle (which is neither black nor an isle, but a pretty peninsula!) – enjoying views of the Moray Firth from Chanonry Point (this is a famous spot for dolphin spotting, sadly we didn’t see any!). A quick visit to the nearby Fairy Glen was also fun (barring my full-on tumble in the slippery and boggy path).
Chanonry Point : No dolphins sighted, but a canoe passed by!
Chanonry Point : Lighthouse
Chanonry Point : Beach, Rosemarkie in the distance
Fairy Glen : The path
Fairy Glen : Waterfalls
We then visited the Singleton distillery in the Muir of Ord for an interesting tour and tasting. As members of The Friends of Classic Malts, we try to include any distilleries en route wherever possible, and add to our collection of stamps in our whisky journals!
The Singleton : Shop displays
The Singleton : Cellar
The Singleton : The bar/tasting area
We reached Dornoch by evening, and settled in to our luxury pod – a unique, first-time experience for us. As I logged into the wifi network to check emails, an ominous message awaited me in my inbox. Pentland Ferries (operate the Gills Bay-St Margarets Hope route) had just cancelled our sailings to and from Orkney (2 days away) indefinitely due to an accident. I swung into action and thankfully secured last-minute bookings on the Northlink Ferry (ply the Scrabster-Stromnes route). While this impacted my logistics (and very nearly gave me a heart attack), at least we salvaged our Orkney itinerary (later in the trip we met impacted travellers who were forced to drop their Orkney plans altogether).
Outside the pod
Inside the pod
Our little garden
With this episode behind us, we set off to see the town – which wore a deserted look, given everything is closed on Sundays. We dropped by the beach but headed back soon after an unexpected bout of rain which didn’t seem to deter the golfers nearby.
Dornoch beach
Golfers at the Royal Dornoch Golf Club, by the beach
Dornoch Cathedral
Dornoch Castle
We detoured through the Black Isle (which is neither black nor an isle, but a pretty peninsula!) – enjoying views of the Moray Firth from Chanonry Point (this is a famous spot for dolphin spotting, sadly we didn’t see any!). A quick visit to the nearby Fairy Glen was also fun (barring my full-on tumble in the slippery and boggy path).
Chanonry Point : No dolphins sighted, but a canoe passed by!
Chanonry Point : Lighthouse
Chanonry Point : Beach, Rosemarkie in the distance
Fairy Glen : The path
Fairy Glen : Waterfalls
We then visited the Singleton distillery in the Muir of Ord for an interesting tour and tasting. As members of The Friends of Classic Malts, we try to include any distilleries en route wherever possible, and add to our collection of stamps in our whisky journals!
The Singleton : Shop displays
The Singleton : Cellar
The Singleton : The bar/tasting area
We reached Dornoch by evening, and settled in to our luxury pod – a unique, first-time experience for us. As I logged into the wifi network to check emails, an ominous message awaited me in my inbox. Pentland Ferries (operate the Gills Bay-St Margarets Hope route) had just cancelled our sailings to and from Orkney (2 days away) indefinitely due to an accident. I swung into action and thankfully secured last-minute bookings on the Northlink Ferry (ply the Scrabster-Stromnes route). While this impacted my logistics (and very nearly gave me a heart attack), at least we salvaged our Orkney itinerary (later in the trip we met impacted travellers who were forced to drop their Orkney plans altogether).
Outside the pod
Inside the pod
Our little garden
With this episode behind us, we set off to see the town – which wore a deserted look, given everything is closed on Sundays. We dropped by the beach but headed back soon after an unexpected bout of rain which didn’t seem to deter the golfers nearby.
Dornoch beach
Golfers at the Royal Dornoch Golf Club, by the beach
Dornoch Cathedral
Dornoch Castle
#4
on for the ride, more likely a St. Ayles Skiff than a canoe
#5
You were unlucky to miss the dolphins -- they really are a common sight. That pod does look like a fun place to stay. I
Bringing back such good memories - Stayed in the Dornoch Castle hotel a couple of times. By chance there was a touring Swedish youth choir performing in the Cathedral -- absolutely ethereal. Dornoch Cathedral has terrific acoustics.
Bringing back such good memories - Stayed in the Dornoch Castle hotel a couple of times. By chance there was a touring Swedish youth choir performing in the Cathedral -- absolutely ethereal. Dornoch Cathedral has terrific acoustics.
#6
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We were in Dornoch early last June and had a lovely dinner at the Dornoch Castle. If you're still there on Saturday evening the local Bagpiper Band does a loop around the town square which we enjoyed as well. Great memories.
#7
Original Poster
Thank you bilboburgler and janisj for your encouragement.
ckiskie, we returned from our trip last week. Admittedly, Sunday wasn't the best day for Dornoch, but it's hard to optimise a long itinerary.
ckiskie, we returned from our trip last week. Admittedly, Sunday wasn't the best day for Dornoch, but it's hard to optimise a long itinerary.
#8
Original Poster
Day 3 : John o'groats
The next morning, we ventured up the east coast enjoying some imposing castles (Dunrobin), ruins (Hill O’ Many Stanes), charming fishing villages (Brora) and natural wonders (the Golspie Big Burn, Whaligoe Steps, Duncansby Head) before reaching our B&B in John O Groats.
After an early breakfast, we set off for our first stop - the Big Burn walk in Golspie. As the trailhead parking by the old mill was closed, we parked very close to the bridge across the gorge itself that cut out a lot of the walking !
The path
Overlooking the falls at the bridge
By the bridge
We passed by Dunrobin Castle much earlier than its opening hours, so skipped the tour but walked around the estate to admire the French chateau inspired castle and grounds from outside its walls.
Dunrobin Castle
Gardens and grounds
Our next stop was the charming village of Brora, with its gorgeous beach and harbour.
Brora harbour
Brora beach
Bench with a view
Brora golf course
We really enjoyed our tour at Clynelish Distillery. The “Flavour Journey Tour” began with a very theatrical orientation in the experience room, followed by a walkthrough of the facilities and a tasting. Clyneslish primarily produces Johnny Walker, but also makes very small quantities of its own (very good) eponymous brand which is only sold locally.
Outside the Clyenlish Distilllery
The shop
The experience room
At the tasting table
We then stopped at the Whaligoe Steps, 330 very steep and winding steps cut into the rock and descending into the remotest harbour in Scotland enveloped by steep cliffs – a beautiful spot.
View from top
The descent
At the bottom
Our final stop was the impressive sea stacks at Duncansby Head.
Walking to the stacks from the parking lot
Views
Walking around the cliffs
The lighthouse
We stopped briefly at John o’Groats, taking the mandatory photograph at the iconic signpost, and headed off to our B&B calling it an early night.
John O Groats
At the signpost
After an early breakfast, we set off for our first stop - the Big Burn walk in Golspie. As the trailhead parking by the old mill was closed, we parked very close to the bridge across the gorge itself that cut out a lot of the walking !
The path
Overlooking the falls at the bridge
By the bridge
We passed by Dunrobin Castle much earlier than its opening hours, so skipped the tour but walked around the estate to admire the French chateau inspired castle and grounds from outside its walls.
Dunrobin Castle
Gardens and grounds
Our next stop was the charming village of Brora, with its gorgeous beach and harbour.
Brora harbour
Brora beach
Bench with a view
Brora golf course
We really enjoyed our tour at Clynelish Distillery. The “Flavour Journey Tour” began with a very theatrical orientation in the experience room, followed by a walkthrough of the facilities and a tasting. Clyneslish primarily produces Johnny Walker, but also makes very small quantities of its own (very good) eponymous brand which is only sold locally.
Outside the Clyenlish Distilllery
The shop
The experience room
At the tasting table
We then stopped at the Whaligoe Steps, 330 very steep and winding steps cut into the rock and descending into the remotest harbour in Scotland enveloped by steep cliffs – a beautiful spot.
View from top
The descent
At the bottom
Our final stop was the impressive sea stacks at Duncansby Head.
Walking to the stacks from the parking lot
Views
Walking around the cliffs
The lighthouse
We stopped briefly at John o’Groats, taking the mandatory photograph at the iconic signpost, and headed off to our B&B calling it an early night.
John O Groats
At the signpost
#12
Original Poster
Day 4 : Orkney
Due to the forced rerouting on Northlink, we had to drive from John o'Groats to the port of Scrabster near Thurso to catch the ferry to Orkney. We made quick stops at the Castle of Mey (shut ahead of the impending coronation) and Dunnet Head (the northernmost point on the mainand) en route.
Castle of Mey
At Dunnet Head
Dunnet Head lighthouse
Views of Orkney along the horizon from Dunnet Head
The journey from Scrabster to Stromness was fine – personally I think Northlink is the best ferry services provider in Scotland. The sailing route also passes the Old Man of Hoy, a red sandstone stack popular with hikers.
Hoy, in the distance
Close up
We arrived into Stromness, where we had a quick look around this port town and shopped at the local Co-Op.
Church in Stromness
Store in Stromness
Stromness main street
Our next stop was the Unstan chambered cairn, where you had to get on all fours to enter !
Outside
Crawling in
This was followed by the Standing Stones of Stennes and the Ring of Brodgar, both very impressive sites which are free to access.
Stones of Stenness
Barnhouse Village nearby
Stones of Stenness
Ring of Brodgar
Ring of Brodgar, from distance
We finally checked into our B&B in Kirkwall, and strolled around the elegant town, celebrating our success in getting to Orkney (despite the ferry ordeals) with generous ice cream cones at Sinclairs.
View from our B&B
Kirkwall main street
St Magnus Cathedral
Earl's Palace Ruins
Castle of Mey
At Dunnet Head
Dunnet Head lighthouse
Views of Orkney along the horizon from Dunnet Head
The journey from Scrabster to Stromness was fine – personally I think Northlink is the best ferry services provider in Scotland. The sailing route also passes the Old Man of Hoy, a red sandstone stack popular with hikers.
Hoy, in the distance
Close up
We arrived into Stromness, where we had a quick look around this port town and shopped at the local Co-Op.
Church in Stromness
Store in Stromness
Stromness main street
Our next stop was the Unstan chambered cairn, where you had to get on all fours to enter !
Outside
Crawling in
This was followed by the Standing Stones of Stennes and the Ring of Brodgar, both very impressive sites which are free to access.
Stones of Stenness
Barnhouse Village nearby
Stones of Stenness
Ring of Brodgar
Ring of Brodgar, from distance
We finally checked into our B&B in Kirkwall, and strolled around the elegant town, celebrating our success in getting to Orkney (despite the ferry ordeals) with generous ice cream cones at Sinclairs.
View from our B&B
Kirkwall main street
St Magnus Cathedral
Earl's Palace Ruins
#14
Original Poster
Day 5 : Orkney
After a heavy cooked Scottish breakfast, we headed towards Stennes for our 10am tour of Maeshowe (reservations necessary, guided visits only). A short bus ride later, we arrived at what seemed like a mere green mound, but presented a fascinating discovery of a chambered cairn. No pictures are allowed inside. Our guide brought this Neolithic building to life, and also showed us some of the Viking runic inscriptions that survive to this date.
Maeshowe
Maeshowe
We then left for to join our pre-booked 12pm tour of Skara Brae (reservations needed, self guided visits only). Skara Brae are the remains of a stone-built Neolithic settlement, with a cluster of houses complete with stone hearths, beds, and cupboards! We also spent some time at Skaill House, which belonged to the family that discovered Skara Brae on its estate and supported the eventual excavation efforts.
Skara Brae
Skara Brae
Typical house strcture
Gorgeous stretch of sand right by Skara Brae
Outisde Skaill House
Inside Skaill House
Our next stop was the Brough of Birsay, an island reachable by a natural causeway from the mainland only during low tide. We were lucky to have a two hour window to this after our Skara Brae visit. A quick look at the nearby Earl’s palace and geological feature of layered rock called Skiba Geo, and we headed back to Kirkwall.
Crosing over
Along the causeway/seabed
Remains of settlement on Birsay
Pictish stone at site
Birsay lighthouse
Skiba Geo
Earl's Palace ruins
Maeshowe
Maeshowe
We then left for to join our pre-booked 12pm tour of Skara Brae (reservations needed, self guided visits only). Skara Brae are the remains of a stone-built Neolithic settlement, with a cluster of houses complete with stone hearths, beds, and cupboards! We also spent some time at Skaill House, which belonged to the family that discovered Skara Brae on its estate and supported the eventual excavation efforts.
Skara Brae
Skara Brae
Typical house strcture
Gorgeous stretch of sand right by Skara Brae
Outisde Skaill House
Inside Skaill House
Our next stop was the Brough of Birsay, an island reachable by a natural causeway from the mainland only during low tide. We were lucky to have a two hour window to this after our Skara Brae visit. A quick look at the nearby Earl’s palace and geological feature of layered rock called Skiba Geo, and we headed back to Kirkwall.
Crosing over
Along the causeway/seabed
Remains of settlement on Birsay
Pictish stone at site
Birsay lighthouse
Skiba Geo
Earl's Palace ruins
#16
Original Poster
Day 6 : 0rkney
We spent our third day in Orkney, exploring the often-overlooked eastern and southern reaches of the Orkney mainland.
We drove through the narrow channel separating St Peters Bay and Dingyshowe to visit the Brough of Deerness and a collapsed sea cave called The Gloup. We walked a fair way upto Mull Head before the rain got heavier, and retraced to our parking.
Driving along St Peter's Pool
Dingyshowe beach
Lots of bird sightings at desolate Newark Bay
The Gloup
Near Brough of Deerness
Views of Mull Head in the distance
Our next stop was the wonderful Deerness Distillery, producing gin and unique liqueurs (we bought some as well), with a whisky in the pipeline.
Inside the craft distillery
At the tasting table
We then headed south where the cluster of islands is connected by a series of causeways (called the Churchill Barriers). A number of points of interest en route included the Italian Chapel (built by Italian POWs during WW2) and remains of sunken warships in the Scapa Flow destroyed in the war.
Sheila Fleet jewellery store en route, a former church !
At the start of the Churchill Barriers
The Italian Chapel
Sunken ship destroyed by the Germans
Returning along the casueways
We drove as far south as St Margaret’s Hope (where we could see our original Pentland Ferry the MV Pentalina docked following the accident, visibly damaged by a fire) before heading back to Kirkwall. That evening, we visited the wonderful Orkney Museum (which brought perspective to a lot of the sights visited over the last few days), and enjoyed our last stroll through the town.
Orkney museum, outside
Orkney museum, inside
Views of charming Kirkwall, from the harbour
We drove through the narrow channel separating St Peters Bay and Dingyshowe to visit the Brough of Deerness and a collapsed sea cave called The Gloup. We walked a fair way upto Mull Head before the rain got heavier, and retraced to our parking.
Driving along St Peter's Pool
Dingyshowe beach
Lots of bird sightings at desolate Newark Bay
The Gloup
Near Brough of Deerness
Views of Mull Head in the distance
Our next stop was the wonderful Deerness Distillery, producing gin and unique liqueurs (we bought some as well), with a whisky in the pipeline.
Inside the craft distillery
At the tasting table
We then headed south where the cluster of islands is connected by a series of causeways (called the Churchill Barriers). A number of points of interest en route included the Italian Chapel (built by Italian POWs during WW2) and remains of sunken warships in the Scapa Flow destroyed in the war.
Sheila Fleet jewellery store en route, a former church !
At the start of the Churchill Barriers
The Italian Chapel
Sunken ship destroyed by the Germans
Returning along the casueways
We drove as far south as St Margaret’s Hope (where we could see our original Pentland Ferry the MV Pentalina docked following the accident, visibly damaged by a fire) before heading back to Kirkwall. That evening, we visited the wonderful Orkney Museum (which brought perspective to a lot of the sights visited over the last few days), and enjoyed our last stroll through the town.
Orkney museum, outside
Orkney museum, inside
Views of charming Kirkwall, from the harbour
#17
Birsay Lighthouse used to be wind turbine powered, but they blew away, now on solar
The ship sunk by Germans is correct but... they were there because that was where they were being stored after WW1. There the German crew sank them.
The metal from these ships is the major source of pre-radioactive era steel and used in MRI machines
The ship sunk by Germans is correct but... they were there because that was where they were being stored after WW1. There the German crew sank them.
The metal from these ships is the major source of pre-radioactive era steel and used in MRI machines
#18
Original Poster
bilboburgler, I was surprised to see solar panels at the Birsay lighthouse (infact, they appear in the photo too). Like the sunken ships, my WW history is also rusty- thanks for that info..
#20
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Enjoying this report! I was in Scotland last May, although mostly different places. It's a country with such beautiful and dramatic landscapes.
If you haven't read it already, I recommend Winter Tales by George Mackay Brown. It's a delightful book of short stories about a community in Orkney.
If you haven't read it already, I recommend Winter Tales by George Mackay Brown. It's a delightful book of short stories about a community in Orkney.