zebec

"YIA PATMOS!" shouted the Nyssos Kalymnos ferry crewman as we arrived at that sacred isle. Found in the northern Dodecanese (or if you like the southern Sporades), the island gets a lot of visitors to its high-profile Monastery. But there is plenty more on offer for the traveler. Various royals and celebrities have chosen Patmos as their isle over the decades, David Bowie being but one. This fourth part to our ongoing 'Metaxi Mas' Greek TR (part five Folegandros will later conclude this series) will feature music immediately, in the form of acoustic guitarist Don Ross' evocative instrumental 'Patmos'.

Please enjoy.

zebec

As always, we begin with an overview.

The aforementioned ferry 'Nyssos Kalymnos'.

Arty nocturnal shot of same.

Lambi beach is renown for its billions of colorful volcanic pebbles.

A Parisian financier arranged for these historic meloi (windmills) to be restored with proper masonry. Wholemeal flour is apparently milled at one.

The Hora village occupies the highest spot on the island, surrounding the famed St. John Monastery.

Tunnels abound up in the Hora.

Some are shadier than others.

Greek God.

Greek gourd.

Young Patmian.

Fishermen make a living here.

The accretions of the sea layered atop an ancient anchor.

Where there are fish, there are always cats.

Some are sneakier than others.

Stylized door knockers are popular on this island.

Holy Cross Chapel.

Dual domes.

A Patmos medley.

zebec

*click on images for possibly better quality Our ferry route went past Mt. Zeebekicos and also

the tiny island of Agathonisi.

Reflections from Agathonisi harbour.

Our ferry also passed the luxury cruiser 'Star Flyer', which bore a Turkish flag. The Monastery can be seen afar at top right.

That cruiser was impressive.

Skala port in Patmos. The man at the edge was responsible for securely tying off arriving craft.

Our whitewashed rental up in Hora. We were its final clients of the season that October 2014.

Called 'Spitaki' (little house), it had been leased by actor John Malkovitch a few months prior. *His performance in the true Greek story 'Eleni', is essential viewing for those wanting to learn about the Greek Civil War that followed WWII.

Old-fashioned lace curtains inside Spitaki.

The superb views down to Skala port had from Spitaki's patio. Note the NK ferry at anchor down in the bay.

We used that patio at all times of day.

We'll never forget the wonderful 'whoosh' sounds made by the wind going through these leaves by the patio.

The key of Spitaki.

Spitaki starfish.

Spitaki was the annex of the nearby Archontariki ('old mansion') B&B. Apparently that whole outfit is in turn owned by the Monastery.

Our French-speaking neighbours had a sense of humour. Their other door had the sign: 'CHAT TRES ENERVE'!

Spitaki was part of the same building as a small supermarket, one with

a delivery promo sign for the ages.

The local produce truck served that small shop.

But the best added-value for Spitaki was the Loza cafe, an everyday people kinda' place located a mere 10' directly across the lane!

Loza cafe owners Rigas and Sofia Fegaros run a laid-back oasis with a terrific view. Their salads are worth crossing an ocean for. It seems that rockstar Bono had brought his sons there to chill out a week earlier.

Another shop was also close by.

That shop had a colourful sign and

silver dollars for sale.

Gift item.

zebec

The local Simadaris folklore museum was a hodge-podge with varying levels of interest. But one historical portrait hanging there caught our eyes.

An apparently authentic rendering of a teen Marie Antoinette.

The Hora (chora) makes for a great sunrise walkabout.

Hora Dora.

Hora Dora two.

Hora window.

That Hora window's moodier sibling.

Hora windows and doors.

Hora chapel.

Another Hora chapel. Detect a pattern?

Hora sign.

Hora tiles.

Costas, a Hora man.

A Hora woman who slipped away before we could ask her name.

TDudette

Nice shots and good glimpses of local activities. Keep them coming, zebec.

zebec

Thx TD!

zebec

TO ALL THE CATS: we agree to your terms. In exchange for the safe return of our Nikons, a caiqueful of sardines will be delivered to your place of residence, plus the following feline foto collection (featuring yourselves) will be displayed forthwith. M'kay?

zebec

Incense for sale by the Monastery entry. Signs read: 'Please be quiet upon entering the Monastery'.

We were the first entrants that morn at the Monastery. Mrs Z and I kept our voices to a whisper.

All alone, we went up to the carillon area. Quietly.

More signs read: 'Please be quiet here at the Monastery'.

The views from up on the terrace were special. The September 2013 issue of Lonely Planet's 'Traveler' magazine has a spectacular shot taken from nearby. Note that surrounding signs read, 'Please be quiet at this Holy Monastery place of worship'.

So imagine our surprise, plus the angry reaction from church officials there, when a trio of Russian tourist gals soon barged in and continued SHOUTING all their comments non-stop for 15 minutes! Nyet duja dobre.

Arches abounded.

Monastery mosaic of holy man.

Ancient art above a wooden chair.

Historic paintings and mosaics covered the interior courtyard , most of which was open to the sky.

Monastery lamp shadow.

Monastery flowers.

as above

Religious iconograhy.

One of two chapels right outside the Monastery entry.

Prayer beads for sale at close by Gift Shop.

Assorted items there.

A holy melon

zebec

A walk around Patmos, starting from the Hora, then heading out into the countryside.

Our patio view seemed to promise a beautiful day.

Starting at sunrise, a new day breaking through.

Church bells rang.

Whose home? Julia Roberts? Richard Gere? Diplomat Negroponte? Princess Whatserface?

The excellent main square up in the Hora.

Hora got style.

Window window.

Perhaps this was the Patmos Bee-keepers house? *Spare a thought for Evia isle and its famed honey industry. It was recently almost wiped out by wildfires.

Rare marble door-frame at one of the countless other chapels across Patmos.

Carved stone handrail at yet another old chapel.

Bougainvillea.

Plant life on Patmos.

View below a branch.

Some couples like to bike.

And they are not alone.

Quiet corners everywhere.

Another elaborate shadow.

Carved door detail.

Colourful hanging laundry.

Typical Patmos hora scene.

Blue berries.

Out in the hinterland.

The fresh smell of the country air filled our nostrils.

Landscape looking (I think) south.

A remote chapel.

Another isolated chapel just waiting for an artist to sketch or paint it.

An image from the local cemetery.

Prickly pear cacti.

Pigeon coop.

Rural residence.

Clump of dried vegetation used as natural barometer when hung above front door. Other versions seem to also have a superstitious component, with attached feathers, garlic clumps and even red necklaces.

Country road.

Farm object atop roof.

Young rural resident.

A farmer and his grand-daughter.

Cute child.

One of the many bays across this lovely island.

This shows a part of the isle designated by a young Swiss businessman who has commenced setting up a new vineyard.

Heading back into the Hora, with its whitewashed, cubist houses clustered below another religious building.

The backside of the Monastery dominates the townscape.

The distinctive, red-tiled roof of this Orthodox church was not seen on other isles on this trip.

It had a wonderful mosaic and

historic stonework.

We were given permission to shoot fotos at a wedding held at the Aloni cafe next to the windmills. Our taxi driver, Mihalis, was in the band.

Wedding bouquet detail.

A wooden plaque announcing the marriage. *Next: some shadows.

zebec

(voice of exasperated travel photographer)

'DAMN YOU CONFOUNDED CATS! GIVE US BACK THOSE MEMORY CARDS TOO! WHAT? ok........ok, I'll uh, make that announcement here now. But we expect that you'll live up to your end of the bargain this time and fork over those cards!
Ahem...
Observe in these images how legions of wonderful felines mew and stretch their muscular forms, showing their awesomeness and superiority over the measly humans both local and foreign. So far superior are the Cats. Always. We are done. the end.'

zebec

Shadow one.

Shadow two.

Shadow four.

KayF

Fabulous photos. Thanks so much! Greece is an incredibly inviting place. It's very high on my list to return, once we can escape.

zebec

And now for nauticalia.

White boat, blue trim.

Red boat, blue trim.

alt. shot

Boat ID nameplate.

Fixing nets.

"Endhaksi, take my picture!"

as above

Boat part detail.

Skala and also its neighbouring bay, were where most fishermen had their boats.

Maritime scene.

Remote coastal area.

Remote port.

Consulting an elder man-of-the-sea.

Land meets sea.

Rocky coast.

Wind on water.

* a tease for what comes next, a special subject: Lambi Rocks.

zebec

Thx Kay. I hope that you and yours return to traveling immediately if not sooner.

zebec

Ah Lambi rocks. I featured some of these beauties in a separate photo essay about a year ago. Those stones were OK visuals, but the following were our faves. Ancient volcanic eruptions created Lambi beach, a remote spot on Patmos, known for its many colourful pebbles. We returned more than once.

From afar, the beach does not reveal its secret.

Some come for lunch at the lone taverna. What a setting!.

The sole thing on the simple menu is like, fish.

OK, and a few other items too.

But the rocks were our main reason for coming.

When wet, their colours are spectacular.

Unique beauty not so common around the globe.

Mother Nature surprises one with her unexpected reveals.

Gems, absolute gems for the avid shutterbug.

Magical imagery.

zebec

Finally, a few stragglers. *Please don't hesitate to add here either some of your own photos of Patmos and/or you fave Greek music of whatever sort. Trip Reportage from there also welcome.
Part five of this ongoing 'Metaxi Mas TR' will later on towards Xmas feature Folegandros, and that'll be the conclusion to our Odyssey.
I hope that you enjoyed this.

Straggler.

Son of straggler.

Return of the son of straggler.

Blue door straggler.

Metal plate straggler.

Lambi straggler.

Lambi straggler's pet octopus.

Final straggler. Lambi *check out the creamy-pink rock at the top. I am done. the end.

Judy

Your photos are stunning!! Will make our 4th trip to Folegandros in May.....can't wait to see those pics.

Nelson

I always love your photos zebec, thanks for sharing. The attention to detail is impressive. Greece is a top three contender if we decide to start international travel again.

Adelaidean

Always enjoy your photos, zebec, thanks for sharing them.

zebec

Hey Jude, thank you and hopefully Folegandros won't take as long to upload and all that. I remember your trips past and upcoming. May should be purrfect ('It better be'--the cats)
For those unaware, both Nelson and Ade have also posted travel photos here on Fodors, including Kangaroo Island, Vancouver Island, China, Europe and more.
I am done. the Lambi