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San Jose, El Remanso, Bosque del Cabo & Xandari - Nov 2009

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San Jose, El Remanso, Bosque del Cabo & Xandari - Nov 2009

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Old Nov 22nd, 2009, 05:45 AM
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San Jose, El Remanso, Bosque del Cabo & Xandari - Nov 2009

I should jot this down before I forget details. Went to CR Nov 5th-13th, the near end of the rainy season which really wasn't a factor all that much.

Since I was getting in around noon and leaving the next day early from Pavas on Nature Air, I decided to not stay in Alajuela this trip but San Jose instead. After looking at so many hotels, I couldn't make up my mind and decided to try something different - Priceline. I decided my budget for the night would be $65 and if not accepted I would just book the Crowne Plaza Corobici. My bid was accepted and I ended up getting the Palma Real Hotel, which is less that a block from the Crowne Plaza and is on the north side of Sabana Park. The hotel was actually pretty nice, more of a business oriented hotel and somewhat chain-like, but I thought for $65 (including tax & a big breakfast) it was nicer than expected. The staff were all pleasant, the room a good size and a casino attached to it. I went in to the mostly empty casino with $10 and came out an hour later with $20, so not a bad hour spent. There is an excellent Italian restaurant next door called L'Olivo, huge portions in a nice atmosphere. Plenty of taxi's outside - a quick trip to Mas x Menos and 5 minutes waiting on me cost only $5 and the under 10 minute drive to Pavas was only $10.

On the 6th I flew from nature Air to Puerto Jimenez to go to El Remanso for 2 nights and Bosque del Cabo for 4 nights. I lucked out on check in as I had my 24 lb bag plus another small bag weighing 15 lbs (was taking a laptop down to PJ for someone) and though she noted I was over, she didn't make me pay an extra charge.

There was a taxi driver waiting for me, cost to El Remanso was $30 or $35, I forget. The driveway turn-off to El Remanso is literally right next door to Bosque's entry, maybe 40 feet past. Arrived in blazing sunshine which was a good sign in rainy season. Greeted by Cindy C (who used to be at Bosque) and shown around ER and to my cabina La Guinda. This is a beautiful, new cabina set a little further down the ridge than the others. Lovely big deck with a view of the forest with water in the background. Big tiled tub with a picture window as well as a shower. The room was very simply decorated, no mosquito net and very private. The walk back up to the main restaurant/reception area was around 2-3 minutes. It's not lit at night so make sure to have flashlights. Had a couple small colourful beetles at night but nothing really of consequence. I did love the 3 little bats that spent the day outside the back screen, listening to them chatter and squabble.

I did the Carablanca trail not long after arriving. It's about a 10 minute hike up the driveway to the trailhead. I saw a bird, and took down (walked thru) an enormous amount of spider webs, that was about it but the waterfalls were nice. A couple places were a little slippery due to the ubiquitous Osa red clay/mud and I was very satisfied for not eating it a couple times. Of course until I did. I decided to use both hands to protect my camera instead so got a good amount of it on me but no harm done.

Lunch and dinners usually consisted of 2 choices that you needed to make at the previous sitting. All the servers and staff were friendly and helpful and coffee was always available, beginning around 5:30am. I ended up staying up quite late (for CR) my first night there. Four women from CO and I were the only guests so we ended up playing card games and having quite a good time. Two of the staff joined us later for a pretty vicious couple rounds of UNO Odd thing - as we were playing I heard a thump but didn't look into it. Few minutes later I looked over on the floor and saw a bat that had flown into something and was laying stunned. Very close-up look and he did not look very happy. One of the staff safely picked him up and set him back outside.

Saturday morning around 8 I did the Ridge trail hike with Gerrardo. Or at least we got off to a good start. Back up the driveway and about an hour into the hike it started to rain sheets. We tried for a few minutes to keep going but it was impossible, it was coming down so hard we were standing in small rivers and couldn't see well. By the time we made it back to the lodge we were drenched. Luckily after an hour it already started to taper off and I went down to the Pacific via their trail. Little slippery trail, especially after the rain. Most of it is a slope rather than stairs and on the red clay, so watch your footing. I didn't walk to the waterfall, instead just sat on the beach and watched the hermit crabs disassemble a crab. Hiking up took 20 minutes. Had a massage which was really excellent, first time I've ever actually fell asleep. Laura was excellent and a massage is excellent after hiking. One thing I wish I had was a fleece, yes on the Osa I was cold! After the drenching from that morning I seemed to get a chill that I just couldn't get rid of for the rest of my trip, luckily they have an extra blanket in the room. Went up to reception and checked my email, they have a computer there with a pretty decent connection.

Sunday morning I packed up to head over to Bosque around 11am. Did a quick walk up the driveway and started the Passiflora trail but the exit was sort of blocked by debris/branches so I walked back to the entry of the trail and that was blocked as well. So I just kept going up the driveway to the end and saw some coatis and agoutis foraging along the side. Checked out (10% discount for cash) and Cindy was nice enough to run me over next door to Bosque.

Sum up for quick stay - Very nice place, great cabins and staff. I'd been thinking that since they were neighbors it would be very much like Bosque but it is not. I don't mean that in a bad way, but just note there is a difference. There is little flat land at El Remanso, and obviously much less land, so not sure if it was just timing or the land or certain trees or whatever, but I did see much less mammals than I usually do at Bosque. I would have no hesitation recommending it, other than to say I do simply prefer Bosque. I think the value was a good deal and is a very nice place to spend a few nights on the Osa.

I'll continue on with Bosque del Cabo later......
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Old Nov 22nd, 2009, 06:35 AM
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Tully, I have beem watching for your report! Great as usual.
Which Cindy? Tall/slim? or shorter?

Hubby and I loved the pictures of ER you posted, the cabina does look wonderful.
Nice to have a comparison between the 2 lodges since they are so close together.

Looking forward to the rest! Need a BdC fix
Toni
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Old Nov 22nd, 2009, 06:40 PM
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Thanks Toni. Cindy C is the taller/slimmer at ER now, the other Cindy at Bosque is expecting in June, so she will be rounding out soon The cabina at ER was indeed very nice, I like the clean lines of it. I will get to Bosque hopefully tomorrow.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2009, 08:58 AM
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Hi tully -- Hadn't thought of using Priceline for CR. Way to gamble! Can't complain with $65 total price, that's for sure! The pics of ER look great! Weird that being so close to BDC you didn't have more wildlife. Must have something to do with the presence of primary/secondary forest/corridor...? Sounds like you had a wonderful time though with new friends. How was the food?
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Old Dec 1st, 2009, 07:17 AM
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Tully, where are you???? Looking forward to the rest of your trip report.
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Old Dec 1st, 2009, 02:58 PM
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Sorry, I'll get back to it, I didn't really think anyone was reading it (not that you Toni and HVC aren't anyone, lol)
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Old Dec 1st, 2009, 03:57 PM
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Okay, so on to Bosque del Cabo.....

Cindy C was nice enough to run me over from El Remanso, where I was greeted by the other Cindy (who is expecting in June, along with other people ) I ended up in Lapa, my original cabina from years ago, and my how it's changed! All new everything, inside and out, including a huge deck. The deck mind you is sans railings, as are all others, which I prefer and hope they don't put them up! All new spiffy interior as well, and the lighting seemed a little brighter at night even though they use the same low-watt bulbs as before. Made reading at night easier. Ran into Kevin at lunch (tuna melt, stat!) who may be returning soon to Bosque, I hope so.

It rained during lunch and then tapered off but then the wind came in strong. So of course I decided to take the trail to the suspension bridge, over and back thru the garden to the other entry to the garden, up the driveway and to the Titi trail. Not my greatest idea. Luckily the umbrella protected me from all the flying twigs and larger branches. By the time I reached the Titi the umbrella stood in as a walking stick and I ended up seeing a whole troop of squirrel monkeys and enough birds to keep shillmac happy. At the exit ran into a troop of capuchins and on the way back a couple of toucans and the ubiquitous spider monkeys. Let me say I did that whole trek in strapless crocs and I loved them. I stomped thru puddles, the mud and so easy to wash off and they dry so quickly. You'll see the staff in them too, and who knows...maybe you will come across my sky blue and white tie-dyed pair that I donated as I left.

It was a good thing I arrived that day, or that someone else did, as it turned out dinner was just two of us! A very nice traveler, Anglea, from the UK who had been to BdC a couple of years ago and was happy to be back. We had a nice fish dinner and turned in early, there were more people on the way tomorrow.

Early, early riser at Bosque like always, 5:05am and I chided myself for 'sleeping in'. Angela was up at the restaurant already as we awaited that wonderful moment of the first batch of coffee as toucans and lots of birds that I surely have forgotten their names flew by. Sent a huge hazardous bag of laundry off, breakfast and more coffee then off on my fave trail the driveway I do love all the trails, and the wonder of what may be around the next corner or freezing trying to pinpoint a sound but I must say a huge majority of my wildlife spottings have come right from the good old driveway. This morning didn't disappoint - squirrel monkeys (twice), spider monkeys and capuchins, several agoutis and many, many of the reddish squirrels (more than I've ever seen on previous visits), a couple of toucans and a roadside hawk. I also discovered a new animal. Walking I heard an unusual sound, think a baby animal with gas. Freezing in place, waiting, I continued on after I didn't hear it again. Then I heard it again. This went on for about 5 minutes until I was so annoyed I was about to just walk thru the brush to find the darn thing. Jumping off the road a little I could finally see where my 'animal' was - it was too very thin trees that had grown so they criss-crossed at the top and every time the wind would blow they would emit that sound. That was my palm to forehead moment.

So anyway, not to continue day by day but to just sum up some things. We ended up having more and more guests join us every day so by the time I left there were 11 of us. Maybe we had unusual weather but I was surprised by how little it rained, I had really been expected torrential downpours 24/7; in all I think it rained 3 times hard enough to send me under cover and none of them for very long. I did get a "dampness" though to my skin that lasted pretty much my whole time on the Osa and really wished I'd had, yes, a light fleece. (A caveat - I'm a wimpy FL gal who breaks out the sweaters and hoodies when it's 65). The food as always was great, the soups especially were wonderful. I took the morning bird walk with Carlos which was interesting though I can't claim (despite shillmac's protests) a huge interest in birds. He would point out a fascinating, I'm sure, bird and I would be blurting out 'but look, a spider monkey mommy!'. I didn't do a huge amount of trails - the Titi twice, the Manakin trail, the Creek trail (to the creek) and the driveway several times. Also walked up to Coco hoping to spy some peccaries but no joy. One morning several of us had gathered having early coffee and were joking by 7:30 we were "done", as down by Tucan cabina there were 3 different troops of monkeys (howlers, spiders & capuchins), an incredible amount of toucans flying back and forth between 2 trees and a few agoutis. I was also very happy to come back from a walk one day about 11:30 and find a troop of spider monkeys next to my cabina and eventually right off the deck. Even nicer I went to lunch at 12:30, came back and they were still there for another hour or so.

Some other thoughts and comments....Congo cabina, the most requested cabina, was undergoing a complete overhaul as well and was almost done by the time I was leaving. The entry has changed sides, as has the location of the shower. Still has that awesome view of course! All the walkways are now done to all the cabinas and they are continually as always upgrading and making improvements all over the lodge and grounds. I did notice much less coatis this trip, may be a seasonal thing or maybe the puma has been busy. Berni, the bartender is a funny guy once you get him going, he entertained us with his many puma stories and tales of going down the Pacific trail at midnight (!) to go fishing.

All told, nothing to change my thinking that Bosque del Cabo is just my 'happy place' and already has me planning my next trip there. From the staff (always so friendly and genuine) to the wildlife (everywhere!), to the drop-jaw views from the cabinas, to the simple peace and tranquility it has, it is unsurpassed. Kim and Phil and the whole staff make it feel like home, no matter how short or long or how many times you've been there.

Left early on a Thurday for the Nature Air flight back to Pavas and on to Xandari. It's fun running into people in PJ, where it seems so easy to do so. Saw Berni and Jose (the old bartender from BdC), the taxi driver who'd taken me to El Remanso plus Elyers from ER as well.

I'll finish up with Xandari later!
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Old Dec 2nd, 2009, 05:10 AM
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I've been lurking and reading! Always enjoy reading your reports, Tully.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2009, 05:21 AM
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Me too - I'm reading it! Tucan is an excellent cabin. We loved staying in it and saw a ton of monkeys there; I think it's on the unofficial monkey highway. Interesting about all the changes and upgrades at BdC!
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Old Dec 2nd, 2009, 07:41 AM
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I didn't realize Kevin had left Bosque. I told my sister and her husband to look out for him! Oh well.

In any case, reading with interest as it seems that my 4th trip to CR may be coming up next February--and that Xandari will be one of the places we stay.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2009, 08:17 AM
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Sounds like a near perfect trip tully! BDC is indeed a place that fills the happy place need. Hmmm...maybe I'll tag along on a fishing trip with Berni. LOL! Not! I can just see myself trying to do that trail in the dark.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2009, 08:27 AM
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I didn't realize Kevin had left either - where did he go? We practiced our Spanish on him, and he acted like he knew what we were saying - lol.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2009, 09:50 AM
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hip, you crack me up! You would too go fishing with Berni, even on a dark trail! I love it!

tully, just started reading today. I've been "off Fodor" for awhile. Great report--love your details and sense of humor as usual. You put me right there with you through your retelling! Thanks!
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Old Dec 2nd, 2009, 10:20 AM
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Thanks for following up on your report. One of these days I hope to get to BdC. You regulars make it sound so amazing!
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Old Dec 2nd, 2009, 10:41 AM
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Ha-ha shillmac! You're right...I probably would (and I'd drag you along with me)!
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Old Dec 2nd, 2009, 02:26 PM
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Thank you all, I didn't want to be typing for naught


Yes Tucan seemed quite the hot spot every morning between 5-7am for the monkeys and they seemed to like the trees between Palma & Lapa in the late mornings/early afternoons. Kevin hopefully will be back soon, not sure, I know he was working thru some things in life as we all do but was happy the day I saw him, same Kevin Still thinks I'm fluent in Spanish which I do a great impression of.

I just don't think I could go down that trail in the dark, we kept calling him loco but to him it was perfectly sane I would be oh so busy looking in front of me, behind me, to the side of me, and all the while making sure I don't miss one of zillion steps. Bet it would be a lot of fun though. We'll do it on the next GTG

wannatrvl you gotta make it one day, you just have to!

I'll try to get to Xandari tomorrow night!
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Old Dec 2nd, 2009, 02:32 PM
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Tully, so glad to check and see that your trip report on BdC was posted. I laughed at your... can't get as worked up as Jill birding !! Last trip,I did 2 solo guided bird hikes one in Arenal one w/Carlos at BdC. My hubby who also birds along w/me, said he wasn't going with me b/c he doesn't get quite as worked up and as excited as I do! hahaha
Nice to hear about Bernie and Kevin. We really enjoyed Bernie and he is quite funny. He had us laughing pretty hard telling us some tales about those fantastic flower arrangements he does and also some of his treks!
Nice to hear about people we know. I liked that BdC is your happy place, great way to state it!
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Old Dec 2nd, 2009, 02:45 PM
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Okay, I'm picturing it now. We're doing the Pacific Trail during the middle of the night. And DH and I will lead you guys right to the waterfall (unlike our daylight adventure). Can you see me wading through that little lagoon in the dark? Ho Ho Ho. I'll bet the P Trail is an interesting experience at night. Hmmm. Wonder how long it would take us to get down there?

Anxious to hear about Xandari. Of COURSE we're reading your stuff! You write the best reports--always. Loved hearing about Kevin--bless his little heart. Always such a nice smile. Was Trino still working? I miss Bosque!
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Old Dec 2nd, 2009, 05:59 PM
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Great report tully! Loving it. You're really making it come to life. Sounds like you had a delightful but too-short stay at BdC, as usual. I think I WILL have to walk up the driveway next Saturday and say hello -- but I'm hoping ER will come through for me so I don't have to... we'll see.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2009, 03:56 AM
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plumboy--buen viaje! Have a great trip!
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