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Glover's ongoing report on Guatemala, Honduras, and Nicaragua

Glover's ongoing report on Guatemala, Honduras, and Nicaragua

Old Jan 2nd, 2016, 08:15 AM
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Glover's ongoing report on Guatemala, Honduras, and Nicaragua

Our annual winter trip is off to a good start! I'll try to do a continuing trip report.

We're happy to be retired for many years and able to escape (usually!) cold DC for January and February. So we aim for places with warmer temps, interesting culture, and good hiking/birding.

We had originally planned to go to Australia and New Zealand this year, but a friend who planned to accompany us needed more time to recover from hip replacement, so we put that off till next year. Thus we two went back to the drawing board for destinations. Thought first to go to South America to places we'd not visited, but then read that this year's strong El Niño could bring heavy rains to SA, but drier than norm Central America. Bingo! Central America it was. We had enjoyed both Costa Rica and Panama in past, so chose a few locations in Guatemala, Honduras, and Nicaragua for this trip. We also like to settle for awhile in a location or two.

We left warm! DC Dec in a roundabout way. We found the best prices for our multi flight itinerary on COPA air, so our flight went DC to Panama City and then on to Guatemala City
With a 5 hour layover in PC (where the temp was 95!). The good news was that we got a free upgrade to biz class from Copa. Checking in on line, we found that there was no possibility to select seats. Never like that, so called airline. They put us in biz class for both legs. Yay! Thanks, Copa!

Arrived in Guatemala City that night on schedule. Were picked up by driver from airport hotel "Villa Toscana." It was just as billed - small hotel, very close to airport (expect plane noise before midnight and after 6), helpful staff, super comfortable bed. Chatted up a woman there who had shared our flight. She's a volcanologist. Husband suggested we'd probably never meet another, but she said our little hotel would be crawling with them and indeed it was. They were convening for a workshop. Had some interesting conversation with some of them at breakfast next day.

Set off from hotel with taxi driver about 11:30. Jesus picked us up in a beat up oldToyota.
Drove carefully through slow traffic out of city. On the outskirts of town was a long strip of auto repair garages. Not too scenic. Stopped on way for gas and ATM for us. Later stopped again when Jesus realized the car was overheating. A long drink of water solved the problem well enough for us anyway to get to our destination in Antigua. But even with the "address",
Our apartment wasn't easy to find. Jesus had several calls with the owner as we entered town. "Where did you find that taxi driver," owner said when we arrived. Haha.

We're thrilled with our apt here in Antigua. Apartmentos Los Nazarenos are a 10 or 15 minute pleasant walk on cobblestone streets to center of town. The apartments are brand new, airy with loft bedroom. Nice outside space and modern well equipped kitchen and bath. All great since we'll be here tillJan 12. There are 4 apts, plus owners home surrounding a small courtyard. Well managed by a young couple and family. We enjoyed a great New Years Eve dinner with them and another tenant couple at table in courtyard: champagne, Iberian ham, delicious chicken and rice dish, mousse like dessert and warmed fruit punch. Great conversation in English and Spanish at table.

We have enrolled in Spanish class at Antiguena academy just around the corner from our apt and survived our first 4 hour one on one sessions. We'll go every afternoon next week as well.
I hope to boost out of my long standing status as a perpetual intermediate. Husband more of a newbie.

The weather here in Antigua is perfect. Cool in the eves and ams, but warm and sunny to 70s and 80s in afternoon. The town is beautifully surrounded by mountains and volcanoes. It's a UNESCO site, so well conserved, has a lovely Central Park and all cobblestone streets, population of only about 40,000.

We've been pretty lazy so far, since we have lots of time here. Did a quick exploration of the huge mercado, where I bought, as is my tropical custom, a bouquet of Cala lilies for about a dollar. Love having them around! Have taken long walks around town and spent a little time observing the scene from a park bench. It's fun to see all the families out of course, but also sad to see the usual many poor indigenous vendors, including small children of course, purveying the same, if lovely, things. Here in the park they aren't aggressive vendors, so sell even less I imagine. I got some insight from my Spanish teacher regarding how public schools manage to discourage poor students.

Had a great dinner at the very cozy and popular Hectors restaurant one night. A bistro with small menu and great food. I had great beef filet and h had spicy shrimp. Also wonderful potato "disks", creamy on inside and super crusty out. Ate some decent tacos al pastor at Fridas Mexican restaurant for lunch another day, decent woodfired pizza and great vegetable salad at a deserted Christophes pizza restaurant another night. Lots of good restaurant choices in town it seems.

Plan to hit a few museums and do a day trip or so this weekend.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2016, 09:42 AM
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Hi! Well, you finally escaped the cold as it is actually winter weather here now. I love buying cala lillies for pennies a stem. I can still remember a huge bouquet we had in Antigua that we got at the market there. There also used to be a candle shop off one of the side trees around the square that you could buy beautiful candles for practically nothing. I still have some from one of our trips.

I'll be interested in following along with you. Have fun!
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Old Jan 2nd, 2016, 09:45 AM
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Hi yes! Glad you'll be leaving cold weather soon too.

Forgot to mention we had a 5.0 few seconds of earthquake the other night...
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Old Jan 2nd, 2016, 11:36 AM
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Following along too... Central America is a region I don't know much about other than what was picked up in history class.

Hope the earthquake was uneventful.

Today is the first day it truly feels like winter here in DC, so you escaped at the right time.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2016, 10:06 AM
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Antigua is beautiful! I would love to go back.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2016, 10:08 AM
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So happy to read this, watching the snow fall outside (I live in north eastern Oregon) and wishing for the 'eternal spring' climate! Consider a chocolate class or to at Chocomuseo if you haven't already.
http://www.chocomuseo.com/english/ou...s/antigua-gua/

Looking forward to more!
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Old Jan 3rd, 2016, 03:40 PM
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Enjoying following your reports!
I leave for Guatemala in one week and just posted our new itinerary for comments! Can't wait.
I will look for that chocolate store, the class sounds like fun.
It is snowing outside my window also. I live in western Washington.
Keep sending reports! Thank you!
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Old Jan 7th, 2016, 12:34 PM
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Glover--I imagine we haven't heard from you in a little while as you're busy being a dutiful student doing your Spanish homework and then enjoying travel opportunities when you're not. I hope you feel your making progress at the school-- I know however that gaining confidence in a non-native language is a long road that requires much perserverance and occasionally feeling discouraged that you're getting nowhere. Presently reading la Reina del Sur by Arturo Perez Reverte to keep my Spanish active, I'm hoping to improve in the spoken language again this summer with an idea of a return visit to a language school in Queretaro, followed by some Central American travel (including Antigua), so I read your report with interest.

Best wishes, Daniel
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Old Jan 10th, 2016, 09:37 AM
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Thanks for following along, all.

Susan, where are you off to this year?

Daniel, lucky you to be returning to Queretaro. Love that place, and Mexico in general.

Yes travel - Buen viaje a Colombia!!

This will be just a short (famous last words) update on our time in Antigua, which ends on Tuesday.

We did 20 hours of One on one Spanish classes. Basically we each spent 4 hours per day talking to a teacher each with correction. Lots of good practice. The Antiguena academy where we went was super convenient for us since its beautiful garden location (it's office and other classrooms are more in center of town) is just around the corner from our apt. It was fine. Because of its convenience, we didn't investigate other schools. We would disagree with those who say Antigua is not as good a spot to study Spanish because of its level of tourism. There were lots of tourists in town as the holidays ended. Fewer now. And the majority of them tend to be more local. While English will certainly be spoken in more touristy restaurants, you will certainly have many opportunities to practice your Spanish everywhere else . . . Do not get the impression that Antigua is a place overrun by North American or European tourists. It does not feel like that to us at all.

We continued to be fairly lazy here. Explored some more city sites. We walked to the top of Cerro de la Cruz, a 15 or 20 minute walk on a smooth sidewalk up to an open area with a big cross, nice views of volcanoes, and a few vendors. Lots of people up there.

We spent several hours on the grounds and in the small museums of the Casa Santo Domingo. This is the remains of a church and convent dating from mid 1600s, mostly now restored and the site of a beautiful hotel, as well as the small museum spaces. Well worth a visit. The following day we returned to take the hotel's free shuttle up another hill to Santo Domingo del Cerro. There are two lovely outdoor restos up there and a few art installations. A great place to walk around and get fabulous views of nearby volcanoes. Fuego volcano was really smokin the day we were up there.

We enjoyed walking around the standing and ruined churches and convents. We spent an hour or so in the small textile museum not far from our apt. An articulate
(In English) guide took us around the displays and pointed out features of the designs from various villages. He himself was wearing an amazing shirt with a beautifully detailed collar. Watched a demo of a woman doing back strap weaving.
Lots of beautiful work available for purchase, but didn't buy.

Yesterday we did an all day (6 to 6) birding trip with Claudia from Cayaya Birding.
She was an excellent guide. We saw half dozen new species. Stopped for short coffee/breakfast at la barista in town, then went to Cerro de Alux, a very nice park with trails in forest. Didn't see many birds there, saw more at the next location, Finca El Pilar. Had a nice lunch at Cabanas Suizas outside town. A lovely location with hummingbird feeders. Highly recommend Claudia and company!

We were pretty much wrecked when we returned, so collapsed on our couch and ate leftover pizza and salad. Will relax today and regroup for big hike to Pacaya Volcano tomorrow and then departure Tuesday for Lake Atitlan.

We are continuing to enjoy Antigua's restaurants. Had a wonderful meal at Como Como the other night , owned by Belgian chef and his Guatemalan wife. It has just relocated so it was an adventure itself to find. Another good dinner was at Fridas
Mexican joint in center of town. And we also went back to Hectors..... I know, I know, these don't serve typical food, but we figure time enough for that in the locales to come.
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Old Jan 11th, 2016, 06:17 AM
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Glover--

Your comment about loving Mexico got me curious, especially since I'm highly considering visiting Guatemala this summer.

Do you find Guatemala different in "feel" from what you've seen in Mexico or quite similar? I know there are a few differences in the Spanish used in Guatemala, such as the use of voseo, for example.

Did you see the quetzal on the birding expedition? (Not sure if it's in that part of Guatemala.)

Best wishes, Daniel
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Old Jan 11th, 2016, 06:30 AM
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Glad you've enjoyed your time in Antigua--makes me want to go back there.

Daniel - we've been to Mexico many times and Guatemala twice. I found them to be very different beyond being latino countries. Guat City, for example is not nearly as culturaly rich, vibrant and interesting as I think Mex City is. Of course its nowhere near the size or having the international flavor. I can't think of any place in Mex that I would say is closely like Guat. Both are very nice in their own way.
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Old Jan 11th, 2016, 07:18 AM
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I'm enjoying your report as well and following along. I had to do a double take when I read that Jesus picked you up in a beat up old Toyota.
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Old Jan 11th, 2016, 07:10 PM
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Yestravel-- I enjoyed reading your perspective on Guatemala with relation to Mexico. Thank you!
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Old Jan 17th, 2016, 10:53 AM
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An eye catching title for this segment might be "Tourists incarcerated during Guatemala regime change" But more about that later.

We had scheduled a hike up the relatively easy Pacaya volcano for our last day in Antigua, but sadly it was cancelled when not enough people signed up on a Monday am. We were offered the option of an afternoon hike, but feared coming down in the dark. We are determined Not to fall down on this trip. And that is not an easy goal in the land of broken sidewalks and cobblestone streets.

Bid a sad goodbye to our nice Antigua digs and our kind landlord and family. Took a shared shuttle (about $30 for both of us) to the major Lake Atitlan hub of Panajachel.
Some jolly conversation with other riders along the way. Nice drive for the most part, mountainous with nice views of crops: cauliflower, broccoli, etc.

We were dropped at our lodging for one night: Jenna's River. B and B. it's a funky collection of rooms furnished with things from Jenna's many travels. Our room turned out to be probably the smallest, up a narrow ladder like set of steps. See fear of falling above. But bed was very comfortable and Jenna was delightful. Had a wonderful included breakfast round a lovely set table with her and other guests. Otherwise didn't much care for Pana, streets busy with motors and Tuk and Tuk, all lined with vendor stalls selling same collection of Guatemalan textile items. Had an odd dinner at the Maya Vietnam ?? restaurant next to Jenna's (she had recommended). We were the only customers as two young Guatemalan women tried to open a bottle of wine with a broken corkscrew. At last husband went to their rescue, though he didn't have an easy time of it either. Quite funny. They then rousted a young hip looking Vietnamese from a nap and she cooked us our fairly decent Vietnamese orders.

Next am after delicious breakfast, we took a tuk tuk to the boat dock for our 40 minutes trip to the lake village of San Marcos. Nice to be out on the beautiful volcano surrounded lake on a gorgeous day. We were a few hours early for our 3 pm check in at our new digs "Lush" , so we walked down a dirt path to Restaurant Tul y Sol and had a nice lunch looking out on the lake. Nice little restaurant run by a Frenchman Went back to our hotel and cooled our heels some more in the very lush common gardens waiting for our room "Pescado" to be ready. It's an ideal location. We have a small bedroom with a stone shower on one floor and then several outside stone steps up to an outside kitchen/seating area with a fabulous view from on high of the lake. Needless to say this is where we've been spending our time! We have 9 nights here. Thus far have spent our time wandering the little village (though only so much of that can be done, as it is indeed small, just 2000 residents and is basically now a center for holistic/spiritual healing.) Not really our scene, and of course we 're older by several decades than most of the other tourists here. No matter, we love our lodging by the lake here. Our lush hotel even has a lovely little outside restaurant, that makes great food, a different menu every night. So we've even eaten at the hotel restaurant several times.

One Eve we went to a special once a month event at the funky little Japanese restaurant called Alala. They make lots and lots of sushi like rolls and miso like soup and people begin rolling in to stack their plates and wait for the live music to begin.. We went on the invitation of husband's Indiana high school !! classmate who would be playing that night with her group. She has lived in San Marcos for decades and runs a small B and B there. We enjoyed watching the whole scene and hearing the music.

Earlier the same day we had decided to tromp around in the nature reserve just next to our hotel. So we went over there about 3 or so, paid the small admission and walked some of the trails in this lovely little park. We got not even the most minimal welcome orientation from the guys who took our admission fee. Enjoyed the exercise, nice views of the lake, and saw a few birds. Went back down to the gate at 4:30. It was chained and locked!! Employees gone, office shut. Aargh! Looked at various possibilities for climbing over fence etc, but all appeared too risky (see fear of falling above). Within a few minutes a group of young locals appeared, wanting to visit. AYUDEnos! We cried . Estamos en cancel. In fact, they spoke some English and were quite jolly. One got on his phone (I thought perhaps he was calling someone official, but later realized probably just a friend.). Heard him say "hay dos ancienes aqui en la parque cerrada." I then laughingly said, "no somos ancienes, somos jovenes. " One guy laughed and handed me a rock through the gate to throw at his friend on the phone for insulting us. They decided we could be rescued via the lake shore with a little help and encouragement from them. They went down a short steep gravel hill outside the gate and waded a few steps in shallow water to the other Waters edge gate of the park. There was enough flexibility in the wooden gate to create just enough space for me to limbo under it. (Thank you stretching exercises!). I then waded the few steps along the water's edge and my savior gave me a hand up the loose gravel hill to sidewalk outside the gate. Husband was another issue. Too big and inflexible to limbo under the beach gate, he had to go over a wall and drop down a significant drop.. He did manage to do that with help from the locals, without killing himself. What an adventure! We had some jolly English/Spanish conversation with them and thanked them profusely. Offered to buy them a beer at nearby restaurant but they graciously declined, showing us that they had already purchased a few beers they were planning on drinking at dock..

When we told this story to other locals, they seemed to think that the guards had closed the park earlier than its normal 6pm, because of "change of administration."
I thought that meant they wanted to join in the festivities happening in the center to celebrate the inauguration of a new village mayor.

Next day we had arranged to go out with a nice local guide, Luis. He met us here at the hotel. We took a boat ride to his much more interesting and traditional village of San Juan. Showed us the house where he grew up (very very basic) and the new house he has built for himself. We walked the trails in a nearby coffee plantation, looking at birds and plants. Then we took a tuk tuk to San Pedro village where we had coffee and a sandwich. On the way down the steep hill to the boat dock, he ran into a friend, whom he introduced to us as the guy who works at "our " nature reserve. I asked him in Spanish if he had worked yesterday and what time he'd left. He said 4. I told him we left at 5. It took him a few minutes to get it and then he sheepishly apologized. He said it was his last day working there because of the administration change. So guess the new mayor brings in a completely new coterie, down to reserve guards.

Who should we then run into on the path back to our hotel but our rescuers from the day before. They too got a kick out of hearing that we'd met our jailer.

Another piece of excitement here at Lush was noticing a 2 1/2 inch scorpion on our bedroom floor one eve as we were going to bed. Husband who was standing nearby stomped on it, spewing a little scorpion entrails that we decided we'd deal with in the am. Much to my surprise when I got up a few hours later to use the bathroom, the dead body was completely gone. Voracious ants will do this someone told us. I was glad to hear that as I had envisioned something even larger and more terrifying coming in as we slept and carrying it off.

We were treated to a great fireworks show from the comfort of our balcony - celebrating the new mayor, then were "treated". To very loud and repetitious Rancho like music till about 3 am also celebrating the new mayor. No real surprise.

Today we are laying low, catching up on notes etc having managed to contract the Guatemala Gallops yesterday. The sandwich at the coffee shop, sushi rolls, quien sabe? Hopefully we'll be well tomorrow.
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Old Jan 17th, 2016, 01:58 PM
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Glover, sounds like you're having a wonderful time. . We're heading to Merida (Mexico) in February for 2 weeks. I'm still working, so I like to divide up my vacation. I'm really looking forward to it. We've rented a little house, and it'll be interesting to stay in one spot for the entire 2 weeks. It's been 20+ years since we were last in Merida.

In August, we're planning something completely different - we're going to Iceland!

Daniel_Williams, I agree with Glover that Guatemala and Mexico are different. I've travelled a lot in Mexico, only the one trip in Guatemala. However, I did think that Antigua in Guatemala was similar in some ways to San Cristobal de las Casa in Mexico. Both are lovely places to visit.
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Old Jan 17th, 2016, 02:51 PM
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Sounds like a fun trip. Hope you feel better soon and have time to explore the traditional part of San Marcos, too, and not just the new age-hijacked area near the lake.
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Old Jan 17th, 2016, 03:25 PM
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OMG! What a story! Lake Aitilan sounds as if it has changed a lot since we were there ~15 years ago. Vietnamese food! Although Panchel sounds the same. I can so relate to the "no falls" motto. Broken sidewalks seem to abound in so many places, so tread warily.
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Old Jan 18th, 2016, 08:05 AM
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I don't know... voracious ants capable of carrying off a scorpion sound pretty frightening too! I like the interchange you had with the younger gentlemen who offered you the rock when his friend said "hay dos ancianos aqui en el parque".

Susan-- Thanks for your perspective. I've never been south of Mexico City in Mexico, so the prospect of a differing experience makes me look forward all the more!
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Old Jan 18th, 2016, 08:42 AM
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Great story, glover - glad you were able to escape your prison.
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Old Jan 29th, 2016, 04:42 AM
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Continuing in Atitlan. One quiet day of recovery (we amused ourselves by brainstorming alliterative names for the disease). Guatemala gallops not too bad, but perhaps Guatemala Ghastlies, Guatemala Grunts? Or maybe Mayan Malaise? Suggestions, anyone? A few days later we went out again with our new friend/guide Luis Cholotio.. It was a spectacularly clear, sunny, warm day. He led us on a wonderful hike. Met us at our hotel at 9 and we hopped on the public boat for a 20 min or so boat ride to the village of Santa Cruz. Just the boat trips across the lake are great fun! From the Santa Cruz dock we walked straight up hill to view the village of Santa Cruz itself. Walked around the small square and peeped in the simple but lovely old church. A large group of village women were assembled outside the church for what looked to be a meeting of.some sort. So interesting to see so many of the women all together dressed in the colors and patterns of their village. They were all listening to one man speak. Luis thought they were talking business/opportunities.

From the village we then hit the trail for our 7 mile hike. It was just challenging enough for us, Requiring a little scrambling up rocks, reminding us we could still do just a little of that (with trusted hiking sticks of course). Lots of variety along the way: Up on ridges with fabulous views of the lake, down into forest areas, through some more interesting villages. Walked down and checked out the very lovely Casa del Mundo lodging, built down side of a hill, wonderfully terraced with beautiful tropical plants and seating areas looking out on the lake. Stopped for lunch at another lovely spot: Lomas de Tzununa. The best yet view of the lake! Good food too. We shared guacamole and chips, a beautiful caprese salad, and our friend Luis had lasagna. A cute little place and neat as a pin. Definitely recommended.

That night we went to another musical event promoted by our high school friend. Went to the cozy restaurant called Paco Real in San Marcos. It's owned by a very jolly Swiss guy and his Mexican wife. Had great pizza and a few drinks while listening to a talented group of young guys from Guatemala City play a kind of rock (?). Our high school friend then joined them for a few songs on her flute. She had loaned them her sound equipment for the eve and brought along her extended adopted family. A very nice eve.

We had several more wonderful dinners at our hotel. Really enjoyed the tasty imaginative food, lovely outdoor space and super nice staff.

Spent a great part of our last day in San Marcos with our high school friend. She kindly treated us to a nice brunch at her B and B, then gave us a further tour of her hobbit house and property. Some other friends of hers showed up, further extending the tour. Her workers created some amazing rooms, conveniences, and furniture for her, mostly from wood and all quite whimsical and artistic. A unique home indeed!

We bid farewell to our Lush hotel and jumped on the public boat for longish ride back to the hub village of Panajachel. A beautiful breezy ride and nice chat with seat mates - two contemporaries from Montreal. From the dock in Pana took a quick tuk tuk ride to the office of Atitrans, our shared van transport to Guat City. That was pretty much an all afternoon drive, with a stop and van change in Antigua. Lots of interesting rural Guatemala scenery though. Horrendous rush hour traffic when we got into Guat City.
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