Back from lovely Costa Rica
Feb 2nd, 2012, 12:24 PM
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Back from lovely Costa Rica
Day 1 - Saturday
Woke up in NYC to snow (first of the season), but flight status was on time. Uneventful trip to Newark, boarded the plane as scheduled…then, after 3 rounds of de-icing, a return visit to the gate and a 5 hour delay in total, we were off. During the delay I contacted our driver (sent both text and email), Wilson Rojas ([email protected]), just to make sure he was aware of the delay, and asked him to contact our hotel (Lost Iguana) to let them know we’ll be late arrivals.
Finally landed in CR. Met Wilson, and off we went. He provided us with a cooler of beer and soft drinks, as well as some snacks (those lime/salt plantain chips are addictive!). We asked him to make a stop so we could get something ‘to go’, for dinner. He stopped at a place called Mario’s in San Ramon. It was excellent. We didn’t want to get too adventurous (it was late, we were tired), so I ordered the BBQ chicken (actually a grilled chicken breast) and my DH had the chicken quesadilla. Both were very good, and the portions, quite large.
We arrived at Lost Iguana at 11pm. Luckily Wilson did call them. Their reception area closes at 10, so our keys were left with security. Wilson, and a security guard, took us to our room. It was very comfortable, and we both looked forward to a good night’s sleep so we could hit the ground running on Sunday.
Note: We booked Lost Iguana with a Groupon deal. I never used Groupon for anything, but heard about this deal in this forum. I checked with Lost Iguana to confirm the deal and our dates, and went with it. We paid $145/night (the regular place was around $250). Even at $250 though, it would have been worth it!
Day 2 – Sunday
Woke up to sounds like I’ve never heard before. So many birds! And the view, the Arenal Volcano in the distance, and greenery everywhere, just delightful and very relaxing. Officially checked in and arranged for cab to La Fortuna waterfalls for after breakfast. The Lost Iguana breakfast was good, eggs/omelets to order, fruit, toast, potatoes or plaintains, rice, beans, juice, and pancakes or French toast. The big disappointment – coffee of all things. Weak compared to what we’re used to (we like our coffee strong).
There is a bird feeder just outside the restaurant. Lots of birds visited, including 2 yellow throated toucans. This actually turned out to be a daily pattern. As we learned, many of these animals have certain patterns of behavior that are repeated regularly.
Our Cab driver, German (pronounced Herman) showed up on time (these are punctual people in general, always on time). He took us to the waterfalls and we arranged for him to pick us up as well. All the drivers give you their card, so you can call for a ride if need be at any time. You can walk to the falls from town, but the road and scenery, not appealing, very gravely, and uphill with nothing of interest around. We didn’t swim at the base of the falls, because we were carrying lots of things (we had a long day planned) and didn’t want to leave them unattended, although lots of people were. We actually finished the roundtrip a lot quicker than anticipated and called German to come earlier than originally planned. The hike back up, was not too bad at all, in fact, it took no more time then the hike down.
German picked us up and took us into town. We arranged for him to pick up at a designated time and place in town, for Eco-Termales later that evening. In the meantime, we walked around town, checked out some of the shops, stopped to pick up some snacks for the room and had lunch at Lava Rocks (which was perfectly adequate, but nothing special).
We had plans to meet up with Geovani Bogarin (recommended by Wilson) at My Coffee, for a tour of a private reserve he oversees. After lunch and walking around town, we went to My Coffee and ordered the “tipico” coffee, where they have this wood stand with a cloth drip setup (and is sold in many of the souvenir shops). Again, a little disappointed with the coffee, maybe we should have just gone with the espresso. Geovani showed up on time, and we took a short cab ride to the reserve. This was a great little tour, interesting and educational. He brings along a telescope, so he can show us things we would have never otherwise even noticed. This man is so dedicated to nature. He oversees this reserve, spending much of his time in a tree house there. He’s written up in this blog: http://fortunaguide.blogspot.com/ and also in the NYTimes (link is in the blog). Wilson arranged this for us. It was only $15pp. He can be contacted directly, (506) 8626-9348.
Toward the end, we once again contacted German, and asked him to pick us up at the reserve instead of in town. He then took us to Eco-Termales (natural hot springs), and once again, we arranged to have him pick us up. The springs were relaxing, and the frozen Margaritas, good, but was it worth it? I’d say NO at $51pp including dinner. Dinner was not good. I had the chicken and DH had the fish. The salad was nice, but it was downhill from there. Fish didn’t seem fresh and chicken was swimming in some creamy sauce which was not my cup of tea. Dessert was rice pudding and inedible. We would have been just as happy having cocktails in the hot-tub at Lost Iguana, and dinner elsewhere. Don’t get me wrong, we did have a pleasant time there, but just didn’t see the value, and I would definitely not recommend the meal option.
Woke up in NYC to snow (first of the season), but flight status was on time. Uneventful trip to Newark, boarded the plane as scheduled…then, after 3 rounds of de-icing, a return visit to the gate and a 5 hour delay in total, we were off. During the delay I contacted our driver (sent both text and email), Wilson Rojas ([email protected]), just to make sure he was aware of the delay, and asked him to contact our hotel (Lost Iguana) to let them know we’ll be late arrivals.
Finally landed in CR. Met Wilson, and off we went. He provided us with a cooler of beer and soft drinks, as well as some snacks (those lime/salt plantain chips are addictive!). We asked him to make a stop so we could get something ‘to go’, for dinner. He stopped at a place called Mario’s in San Ramon. It was excellent. We didn’t want to get too adventurous (it was late, we were tired), so I ordered the BBQ chicken (actually a grilled chicken breast) and my DH had the chicken quesadilla. Both were very good, and the portions, quite large.
We arrived at Lost Iguana at 11pm. Luckily Wilson did call them. Their reception area closes at 10, so our keys were left with security. Wilson, and a security guard, took us to our room. It was very comfortable, and we both looked forward to a good night’s sleep so we could hit the ground running on Sunday.
Note: We booked Lost Iguana with a Groupon deal. I never used Groupon for anything, but heard about this deal in this forum. I checked with Lost Iguana to confirm the deal and our dates, and went with it. We paid $145/night (the regular place was around $250). Even at $250 though, it would have been worth it!
Day 2 – Sunday
Woke up to sounds like I’ve never heard before. So many birds! And the view, the Arenal Volcano in the distance, and greenery everywhere, just delightful and very relaxing. Officially checked in and arranged for cab to La Fortuna waterfalls for after breakfast. The Lost Iguana breakfast was good, eggs/omelets to order, fruit, toast, potatoes or plaintains, rice, beans, juice, and pancakes or French toast. The big disappointment – coffee of all things. Weak compared to what we’re used to (we like our coffee strong).
There is a bird feeder just outside the restaurant. Lots of birds visited, including 2 yellow throated toucans. This actually turned out to be a daily pattern. As we learned, many of these animals have certain patterns of behavior that are repeated regularly.
Our Cab driver, German (pronounced Herman) showed up on time (these are punctual people in general, always on time). He took us to the waterfalls and we arranged for him to pick us up as well. All the drivers give you their card, so you can call for a ride if need be at any time. You can walk to the falls from town, but the road and scenery, not appealing, very gravely, and uphill with nothing of interest around. We didn’t swim at the base of the falls, because we were carrying lots of things (we had a long day planned) and didn’t want to leave them unattended, although lots of people were. We actually finished the roundtrip a lot quicker than anticipated and called German to come earlier than originally planned. The hike back up, was not too bad at all, in fact, it took no more time then the hike down.
German picked us up and took us into town. We arranged for him to pick up at a designated time and place in town, for Eco-Termales later that evening. In the meantime, we walked around town, checked out some of the shops, stopped to pick up some snacks for the room and had lunch at Lava Rocks (which was perfectly adequate, but nothing special).
We had plans to meet up with Geovani Bogarin (recommended by Wilson) at My Coffee, for a tour of a private reserve he oversees. After lunch and walking around town, we went to My Coffee and ordered the “tipico” coffee, where they have this wood stand with a cloth drip setup (and is sold in many of the souvenir shops). Again, a little disappointed with the coffee, maybe we should have just gone with the espresso. Geovani showed up on time, and we took a short cab ride to the reserve. This was a great little tour, interesting and educational. He brings along a telescope, so he can show us things we would have never otherwise even noticed. This man is so dedicated to nature. He oversees this reserve, spending much of his time in a tree house there. He’s written up in this blog: http://fortunaguide.blogspot.com/ and also in the NYTimes (link is in the blog). Wilson arranged this for us. It was only $15pp. He can be contacted directly, (506) 8626-9348.
Toward the end, we once again contacted German, and asked him to pick us up at the reserve instead of in town. He then took us to Eco-Termales (natural hot springs), and once again, we arranged to have him pick us up. The springs were relaxing, and the frozen Margaritas, good, but was it worth it? I’d say NO at $51pp including dinner. Dinner was not good. I had the chicken and DH had the fish. The salad was nice, but it was downhill from there. Fish didn’t seem fresh and chicken was swimming in some creamy sauce which was not my cup of tea. Dessert was rice pudding and inedible. We would have been just as happy having cocktails in the hot-tub at Lost Iguana, and dinner elsewhere. Don’t get me wrong, we did have a pleasant time there, but just didn’t see the value, and I would definitely not recommend the meal option.
Feb 2nd, 2012, 12:55 PM
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Ooh, you're making me miss the Lost Iguana. We were just there and paid $165, and I was thinking that was a great deal, but yours was even better! The chicken we had at Eco T was good - sorry yours wasn't. Rice pudding is one thing I could live without seeing again. Every tour we went on served rice pudding for dessert, and I don't think rice pudding is all that great.
Do you know if Geovani Bogarin is related to Carlos Bogarin? Carlos is the driver for the Lost Iguana, and we've had him a couple of times - wonderful guy. Thanks for the info. on the reserve. I haven't heard much about it before.
Do you know if Geovani Bogarin is related to Carlos Bogarin? Carlos is the driver for the Lost Iguana, and we've had him a couple of times - wonderful guy. Thanks for the info. on the reserve. I haven't heard much about it before.
Feb 2nd, 2012, 01:44 PM
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V, I don't know if they are related. He didn't share much about his personal life, but was completely passionate about nature, especially the animals. He's actually looking for volunteers to put some large rocks along the trail so it's easier to navigate in the rain. He's willing to provide a place to live for any interested parties.
Feb 3rd, 2012, 10:06 AM
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Day 3 – Monday
This was our r&r day. After breakfast, we did the hanging bridges hike. The hotel shuttled us there (walkable, but all uphill). It was a pleasant hike, somewhat hilly in spots (seems everything is in CR!). We didn’t see too many animals though, but some very nice views. We opted not for a guide, but there are many, and when you see them stopped, you can then listen in to find out what they are looking at. We had lunch there as well and it was good. We walked back to the hotel (downhill), and stopped at the hotel shop to pick up a few gifts. We noticed that the prices and items were fairly comparable to those in town.
The rest of the day we relaxed by the pool. The one negative about the pool area is the lounge chairs. They are made out of some kind of woven plastic-like material, and when you sit on them, you kind of slide down. Another person at the pool having similar problems came up with a somewhat awkward solution – he sat on his rubber sandals and that seemed to put the breaks on the sliding!
We decided to have dinner there, instead of the $20+ cab fare each way to town. Their restaurant is pricier than the town places, but not too bad. The food is decent, but nothing extraordinary. The menu though has lots of offerings. The setting is very pleasant as well (same as breakfast).
Day 4 – Tuesday
Woke up early and walked to the trails in the maze area on the Lost Iguana property. Lots of birds to be seen and heard. We had arranged the Eco-Glide zipline tour including pickup/dropoff for after breakfast. On the ride there, the driver spotted a Tamandua which apparently is not a common sight, and pulled over for us to take a look. The zipline was fun, and well organized. It also included a tarzan swing which both my DH and I declined (and we weren’t alone). Although the people that did it, said it was great despite all the screaming. Afterwards they gave us a voucher for a beverage of choice (beer or soft drinks). They also make DVDs of photos and videos they take, along with some general info on Costa Rica and offer it at a fee (I think it was $30).
At the end of the tour, we asked if they could drop us off in town instead of LI., which they did. We did a little shopping and had lunch at La Choza de Laurel. This place was very good and I would certainly recommend it for lunch or dinner. This was recommended by the Eco-Glide assistant in our van. We hailed a cab to return to the hotel. What we found out was there is a different rate for a van-type cab (German’s cab) as opposed to sedan cabs (which we hailed), both were metered. This driver told us that hotels tend to call the van-type cabs. I don’t know if this is in fact, true, but it was our experience. The ride back to Lost Iguana was a few dollars cheaper than German’s.
The rest of the day we took it easy, once again at the pool for happy hour (3-6pm, 2 for 1, but limited drink menu), and had dinner at LI.
A couple of things we noticed while in Arenal, cows on occasion end up in the road instead of behind the fences in their pastures, so drivers have to proceed with caution. Also, locals like to hang out, literally. On the 2 lane bridge on the way to LI in the evening, they’d park their cars, set up folding chairs, and drink, smoke and socialize. This apparently is not uncommon, according to our cab drivers.
This was our r&r day. After breakfast, we did the hanging bridges hike. The hotel shuttled us there (walkable, but all uphill). It was a pleasant hike, somewhat hilly in spots (seems everything is in CR!). We didn’t see too many animals though, but some very nice views. We opted not for a guide, but there are many, and when you see them stopped, you can then listen in to find out what they are looking at. We had lunch there as well and it was good. We walked back to the hotel (downhill), and stopped at the hotel shop to pick up a few gifts. We noticed that the prices and items were fairly comparable to those in town.
The rest of the day we relaxed by the pool. The one negative about the pool area is the lounge chairs. They are made out of some kind of woven plastic-like material, and when you sit on them, you kind of slide down. Another person at the pool having similar problems came up with a somewhat awkward solution – he sat on his rubber sandals and that seemed to put the breaks on the sliding!
We decided to have dinner there, instead of the $20+ cab fare each way to town. Their restaurant is pricier than the town places, but not too bad. The food is decent, but nothing extraordinary. The menu though has lots of offerings. The setting is very pleasant as well (same as breakfast).
Day 4 – Tuesday
Woke up early and walked to the trails in the maze area on the Lost Iguana property. Lots of birds to be seen and heard. We had arranged the Eco-Glide zipline tour including pickup/dropoff for after breakfast. On the ride there, the driver spotted a Tamandua which apparently is not a common sight, and pulled over for us to take a look. The zipline was fun, and well organized. It also included a tarzan swing which both my DH and I declined (and we weren’t alone). Although the people that did it, said it was great despite all the screaming. Afterwards they gave us a voucher for a beverage of choice (beer or soft drinks). They also make DVDs of photos and videos they take, along with some general info on Costa Rica and offer it at a fee (I think it was $30).
At the end of the tour, we asked if they could drop us off in town instead of LI., which they did. We did a little shopping and had lunch at La Choza de Laurel. This place was very good and I would certainly recommend it for lunch or dinner. This was recommended by the Eco-Glide assistant in our van. We hailed a cab to return to the hotel. What we found out was there is a different rate for a van-type cab (German’s cab) as opposed to sedan cabs (which we hailed), both were metered. This driver told us that hotels tend to call the van-type cabs. I don’t know if this is in fact, true, but it was our experience. The ride back to Lost Iguana was a few dollars cheaper than German’s.
The rest of the day we took it easy, once again at the pool for happy hour (3-6pm, 2 for 1, but limited drink menu), and had dinner at LI.
A couple of things we noticed while in Arenal, cows on occasion end up in the road instead of behind the fences in their pastures, so drivers have to proceed with caution. Also, locals like to hang out, literally. On the 2 lane bridge on the way to LI in the evening, they’d park their cars, set up folding chairs, and drink, smoke and socialize. This apparently is not uncommon, according to our cab drivers.
Feb 3rd, 2012, 10:47 AM
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Sitting on sandals using them for breaks - oh, I envision a photo of my husband doing it posted on the Internet 
He doesn't mind when I embarass him like that, and I love to snap out-of-the-ordinary situations!
He doesn't mind when I embarass him like that, and I love to snap out-of-the-ordinary situations!
Feb 3rd, 2012, 10:54 AM
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My husband did give it a try but I didn't get a photo.
Day 5 - Wednesday
There was some heavy rain that night. Again, we woke up early with the birds. We went to check out the trails on the property, but the rain returned. Wilson was picking us up at 8:30am for our trip to Manual Antonio so it was breakfast and checkout.
The drive went fairy smooth. There was some roadwork that slowed things down (only 1 lane open), but other than that it was fine. Wilson was very particular when it comes to stops, whether for food or rest room, or anything else, and we appreciated his concerns, as all his stops while riding with him, were good choices. He stopped occasionally also to point out animals. We made a macaw stop along the way, and also some sloths (which basically look like furry blobs high in a tree).
We had lunch along the way at El Pelicano on the beach in Herradura. Wilson recommend the shrimp quesadilla, so I went with that and it was very good. They also have a salad and soup bar. During the drive, Wilson, told us about certain areas (for good and bad), where he met his wife, and so on. He also took us to a grocery store as we approached our destination so we could buy some food and drink for our room. We thoroughly enjoyed his company, and even a 6 hour drive went by quickly. He also made some restaurant recommendations.
We arrived at Tulemar in the late afternoon. We were staying in the lower level of Villa Mot Mot. It’s basically the size of a hotel room, with a small sink, microwave, refrigerator and balcony with ocean and sunset views. Once again, a jungle type setting. Bill, the concierge, drove us around for a tour and introduced us to staff. We were a bit confused, and didn’t think of asking for a map of the property. Lots of winding paths, streets and hills.
That night we decided to take a walk and look for a dinner spot. We took a flashlight along which was a life saver. It’s dark! We were confused just exiting the property but finally found out way to the main road. It’s hard to walk along the road. No sidewalks to speak of, and just a little gravely shoulder here and there. Victoria’s (recommended by many) is right across the street, but it’s Italian/Pizza and we were looking for something more “tipico”. We walked a while and stopped in one place but the music was blasting so we left. We ended up hailing a cab to Rafael’s Terrazo’s (the cab was $6, no meters, just ask what it will cost in advance) which had been recommended by Wilson and had a nice dinner. We then returned to Tulemar also by cab (it’s too far to walk, especially given the conditions of the roads).
Day 5 - Wednesday
There was some heavy rain that night. Again, we woke up early with the birds. We went to check out the trails on the property, but the rain returned. Wilson was picking us up at 8:30am for our trip to Manual Antonio so it was breakfast and checkout.
The drive went fairy smooth. There was some roadwork that slowed things down (only 1 lane open), but other than that it was fine. Wilson was very particular when it comes to stops, whether for food or rest room, or anything else, and we appreciated his concerns, as all his stops while riding with him, were good choices. He stopped occasionally also to point out animals. We made a macaw stop along the way, and also some sloths (which basically look like furry blobs high in a tree).
We had lunch along the way at El Pelicano on the beach in Herradura. Wilson recommend the shrimp quesadilla, so I went with that and it was very good. They also have a salad and soup bar. During the drive, Wilson, told us about certain areas (for good and bad), where he met his wife, and so on. He also took us to a grocery store as we approached our destination so we could buy some food and drink for our room. We thoroughly enjoyed his company, and even a 6 hour drive went by quickly. He also made some restaurant recommendations.
We arrived at Tulemar in the late afternoon. We were staying in the lower level of Villa Mot Mot. It’s basically the size of a hotel room, with a small sink, microwave, refrigerator and balcony with ocean and sunset views. Once again, a jungle type setting. Bill, the concierge, drove us around for a tour and introduced us to staff. We were a bit confused, and didn’t think of asking for a map of the property. Lots of winding paths, streets and hills.
That night we decided to take a walk and look for a dinner spot. We took a flashlight along which was a life saver. It’s dark! We were confused just exiting the property but finally found out way to the main road. It’s hard to walk along the road. No sidewalks to speak of, and just a little gravely shoulder here and there. Victoria’s (recommended by many) is right across the street, but it’s Italian/Pizza and we were looking for something more “tipico”. We walked a while and stopped in one place but the music was blasting so we left. We ended up hailing a cab to Rafael’s Terrazo’s (the cab was $6, no meters, just ask what it will cost in advance) which had been recommended by Wilson and had a nice dinner. We then returned to Tulemar also by cab (it’s too far to walk, especially given the conditions of the roads).
Feb 3rd, 2012, 12:50 PM
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Day 6 – Thursday
We were up bright and early, as our pickup for the Mangrove Boat Tour (Iguana Tours) was at 5:45am. They come to the parking area closest to our villa, and naturally, right on time. A family of 6 was with us on this tour. When we arrived, they offered us coffee and snacks, and this coffee was the best we had to date. This tour was very pleasant. The guide pointed out all kinds of flora and fauna, and taught us how to identify the various mangrove trees. Many animals were out and about. After the tour they served us a very good breakfast (scrambled eggs, cheese, bread, rice, beans, juice and more good coffee). I would definitely recommend this tour. Even the early pickup wasn’t an issue since the tour itself was not active. We were back at Tulemar by 9am, with a full day in front of us.
We took this opportunity to get better acquainted with the Tulemar grounds and then go to the beach. We stopped at reception and they did have a map, so that was helpful (there was one in the book in the room, but we needed one to carry with us). We took the south trail to the beach (there’s 2 trails and a road with a shuttle van running back and forth). As we walked, I saw what I thought was 2 odd looking mushrooms at the base of a tree. I got up close to take a photo. One was about 10” in diameter, and the other, about 5”. After I took the photo, my DH suggested they may not be mushrooms, but snakes! When we got to the beach, David set us up with chairs and towels. I showed him my photo, and he said it was a coiled up boa with a viper wrapped around it. Let’s just say, no more trails to the beach for me! I later showed the photo to Bill and Diego (the manager). They were surprised, apparently snakes of that size are rarely seen on the property.
The beach it self was very peaceful, but not the clear water/white sand beaches typical in the Caribbean or similar areas. The water was calm, and the sand dark and grainier than the US east coast sand I’m used to. There were many squirrel monkeys and some howlers (who I think should be called growlers, based on the noise they make). The squirrel monkeys are adorable.
We had lunch at the beach. The people working there are very nice and friendly. Daniella at the bar was sweet as could be. We met up with our upstairs neighbors who told us that the monkeys pass through Mot Mot at about 7:30am each morning. They also recommended a restaurant down the road called La Luna in the Gaia hotel, for a meal a bit more upscale than the usual “tipico” places. Bill and Diego stopped by to check up on us, and offer use of snorkel gear and kayaks, although we didn’t take them up on it. We took the shuttle back to Mot Mot to avoid another uphill climb.
After the beach we decided to try out the local bus (someone on the tour had told us about it) which runs from Manual Antonio park to Quepos for all of about 50 cents. This is a great deal. We went to Quepos, walked around town and over to the dyke, and scoped out some restaurants for possible dinner options. A restaurant called El Gran Escape was recommended although we never did get to try it. There were some other seafood places in the area that looked good as well.
Our room had been stocked with some fresh fruit upon our arrival yesterday (pineapple, bananas, water melon and papaya). We cut some up and put it in the white wine we had bought the day before. We sat on the balcony, watched the sunset, and had some wine & fruit. The sunset was spectacular!
Earlier Bill had offered us a ride to La Luna, so we took him up on it. We had a lovely meal there. It’s on an upper floor of the hotel, and also has sunset views, and I believe has a happy hour during sunset with tapas. We thoroughly enjoyed our meals. The seafood there couldn’t be fresher. They also offer an amuse bouche to start and mango sorbet to cleanse the palate between courses. The portions were big, the presentations lovely and the prices moderate. After we told our waiter how much we enjoyed the meal, he brought the chef to our table. The chef, I believe, was from a Caribbean island, not Costa Rica.
We were up bright and early, as our pickup for the Mangrove Boat Tour (Iguana Tours) was at 5:45am. They come to the parking area closest to our villa, and naturally, right on time. A family of 6 was with us on this tour. When we arrived, they offered us coffee and snacks, and this coffee was the best we had to date. This tour was very pleasant. The guide pointed out all kinds of flora and fauna, and taught us how to identify the various mangrove trees. Many animals were out and about. After the tour they served us a very good breakfast (scrambled eggs, cheese, bread, rice, beans, juice and more good coffee). I would definitely recommend this tour. Even the early pickup wasn’t an issue since the tour itself was not active. We were back at Tulemar by 9am, with a full day in front of us.
We took this opportunity to get better acquainted with the Tulemar grounds and then go to the beach. We stopped at reception and they did have a map, so that was helpful (there was one in the book in the room, but we needed one to carry with us). We took the south trail to the beach (there’s 2 trails and a road with a shuttle van running back and forth). As we walked, I saw what I thought was 2 odd looking mushrooms at the base of a tree. I got up close to take a photo. One was about 10” in diameter, and the other, about 5”. After I took the photo, my DH suggested they may not be mushrooms, but snakes! When we got to the beach, David set us up with chairs and towels. I showed him my photo, and he said it was a coiled up boa with a viper wrapped around it. Let’s just say, no more trails to the beach for me! I later showed the photo to Bill and Diego (the manager). They were surprised, apparently snakes of that size are rarely seen on the property.
The beach it self was very peaceful, but not the clear water/white sand beaches typical in the Caribbean or similar areas. The water was calm, and the sand dark and grainier than the US east coast sand I’m used to. There were many squirrel monkeys and some howlers (who I think should be called growlers, based on the noise they make). The squirrel monkeys are adorable.
We had lunch at the beach. The people working there are very nice and friendly. Daniella at the bar was sweet as could be. We met up with our upstairs neighbors who told us that the monkeys pass through Mot Mot at about 7:30am each morning. They also recommended a restaurant down the road called La Luna in the Gaia hotel, for a meal a bit more upscale than the usual “tipico” places. Bill and Diego stopped by to check up on us, and offer use of snorkel gear and kayaks, although we didn’t take them up on it. We took the shuttle back to Mot Mot to avoid another uphill climb.
After the beach we decided to try out the local bus (someone on the tour had told us about it) which runs from Manual Antonio park to Quepos for all of about 50 cents. This is a great deal. We went to Quepos, walked around town and over to the dyke, and scoped out some restaurants for possible dinner options. A restaurant called El Gran Escape was recommended although we never did get to try it. There were some other seafood places in the area that looked good as well.
Our room had been stocked with some fresh fruit upon our arrival yesterday (pineapple, bananas, water melon and papaya). We cut some up and put it in the white wine we had bought the day before. We sat on the balcony, watched the sunset, and had some wine & fruit. The sunset was spectacular!
Earlier Bill had offered us a ride to La Luna, so we took him up on it. We had a lovely meal there. It’s on an upper floor of the hotel, and also has sunset views, and I believe has a happy hour during sunset with tapas. We thoroughly enjoyed our meals. The seafood there couldn’t be fresher. They also offer an amuse bouche to start and mango sorbet to cleanse the palate between courses. The portions were big, the presentations lovely and the prices moderate. After we told our waiter how much we enjoyed the meal, he brought the chef to our table. The chef, I believe, was from a Caribbean island, not Costa Rica.
Feb 5th, 2012, 07:01 AM
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Apparently snakes sleep for 2-3 weeks after a big meal (consisting of what I can only imagine). These snakes were sound asleep (if they weren't I probably would have passed out!).
to be continued...
to be continued...
Feb 5th, 2012, 07:46 AM
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I am very much enjoying this report. We are traveling on a similar route next month. Staying at Los Lagos in Arenal (allegedly, good for kids) and then staying at Tulemar as well. The snake siting has me a little freaked about the walk to the beach. Might need to take the shuttle as well.
Feb 6th, 2012, 08:29 AM
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Day 7 - Friday
We were hoping to see monkeys on our balcony this morning, but no luck. We had an 8:40 pickup for the Valmy hourseback riding tour (http://www.valmytours.com/) which was both recommended by Wilson and Diego. We had breakfast at the Tulemar Café. We were the only people having breakfast at that time, and there was no one at the adjoining pool. Breakfast was fine, but the bacon was unlike any bacon I had ever seen (not in a good way).
Our tour pickup was on time and picked up 2 other couples as well. Valentin, our driver, also runs the farm (been in his family for years). Che was our guide. Every one in the group had little or no experience. Che was a great guide and during the ride, told us all kinds of stories about his background, and also was knowledgeable of many of the plants and trees in the area and their medicinal qualities (he’s clearly into herbal type medicine). You ride along a mountain to a waterfall, where there is a break. They provided water and “maria” cookies, and we could take a dip in the lagoon at the base of the falls to cool off. The return ride he took a different route and allowed the horses to pick up the pace, if you wanted to try a canter or gallop (no problem if you wanted to continue to take it slowly). These horses are more or less on cruise control in any case. There were some other animals at the farm, including a few 10 day old goats which he allowed us to hold. They were just the cutest.
After the tour Valentin took us to what appeared to be his home for lunch. His wife prepared a chicken and rice dish. He also gave us a sample of liquor made from a local fruit (can’t remember which). The ginger ale he had (not Canada Dry, may have been Seagrams) was the best I ever had. I’m not a big soda drinker, but this was so ginger-y (it's made in CR and clearly a different recipe than in the US).
Back at Tulemar we decided to check out the family pool (there are a few, but this one is the closest to our villa). There are great views from the pool, and comfortable lounge chairs (that you don’t slide off!). There is also a small bar with some food offered. We ordered frozen margaritas, but were a bit disappointed. They were mostly chunky ice with little lime or any other flavor. While at the pool, these Yellow Kissadees were in the area and every now and then took a quick dip in the pool. This turned out to be their afternoon routine because they did the same thing at the same time the following day.
For dinner we decided to try a place called El Arado, It had excellent reviews in Tripadvisor, and when we asked some locals about it, they all recommended it as well. What I had read was that there is no menu. They only serve what they get fresh that day. We took a cab there (too far to walk). It was a cute place with an open kitchen. It seemed to be exactly what we were looking for…until a group of about 70 European tourists showed up and started rearranging tables, and just raising the noise level from all the chatter. The place was not equipped to handle that many simultaneous orders, and I think it threw them off some.
We shared Mahi Mahi Cerviche to start and it was very good. I am not a big fish eater normally, but have to say the fish in the MA area in general was so fresh, that I had it every night. For dinner my DH had Saltim, which is some kind of fish stew, and I had the grilled red snapper (it’s wrapped in foil, and grilled that way). My fish was not cooked through, but they took care of that. I think they may have been rushing a bit because of the large group, many of which ordered BBQ’d chicken and the grill itself was quite small. What could have been an excellent meal turned to be more of a zoo scene. I do recommend this place, but would call in advance to make sure no large groups were showing up.
We were hoping to see monkeys on our balcony this morning, but no luck. We had an 8:40 pickup for the Valmy hourseback riding tour (http://www.valmytours.com/) which was both recommended by Wilson and Diego. We had breakfast at the Tulemar Café. We were the only people having breakfast at that time, and there was no one at the adjoining pool. Breakfast was fine, but the bacon was unlike any bacon I had ever seen (not in a good way).
Our tour pickup was on time and picked up 2 other couples as well. Valentin, our driver, also runs the farm (been in his family for years). Che was our guide. Every one in the group had little or no experience. Che was a great guide and during the ride, told us all kinds of stories about his background, and also was knowledgeable of many of the plants and trees in the area and their medicinal qualities (he’s clearly into herbal type medicine). You ride along a mountain to a waterfall, where there is a break. They provided water and “maria” cookies, and we could take a dip in the lagoon at the base of the falls to cool off. The return ride he took a different route and allowed the horses to pick up the pace, if you wanted to try a canter or gallop (no problem if you wanted to continue to take it slowly). These horses are more or less on cruise control in any case. There were some other animals at the farm, including a few 10 day old goats which he allowed us to hold. They were just the cutest.
After the tour Valentin took us to what appeared to be his home for lunch. His wife prepared a chicken and rice dish. He also gave us a sample of liquor made from a local fruit (can’t remember which). The ginger ale he had (not Canada Dry, may have been Seagrams) was the best I ever had. I’m not a big soda drinker, but this was so ginger-y (it's made in CR and clearly a different recipe than in the US).
Back at Tulemar we decided to check out the family pool (there are a few, but this one is the closest to our villa). There are great views from the pool, and comfortable lounge chairs (that you don’t slide off!). There is also a small bar with some food offered. We ordered frozen margaritas, but were a bit disappointed. They were mostly chunky ice with little lime or any other flavor. While at the pool, these Yellow Kissadees were in the area and every now and then took a quick dip in the pool. This turned out to be their afternoon routine because they did the same thing at the same time the following day.
For dinner we decided to try a place called El Arado, It had excellent reviews in Tripadvisor, and when we asked some locals about it, they all recommended it as well. What I had read was that there is no menu. They only serve what they get fresh that day. We took a cab there (too far to walk). It was a cute place with an open kitchen. It seemed to be exactly what we were looking for…until a group of about 70 European tourists showed up and started rearranging tables, and just raising the noise level from all the chatter. The place was not equipped to handle that many simultaneous orders, and I think it threw them off some.
We shared Mahi Mahi Cerviche to start and it was very good. I am not a big fish eater normally, but have to say the fish in the MA area in general was so fresh, that I had it every night. For dinner my DH had Saltim, which is some kind of fish stew, and I had the grilled red snapper (it’s wrapped in foil, and grilled that way). My fish was not cooked through, but they took care of that. I think they may have been rushing a bit because of the large group, many of which ordered BBQ’d chicken and the grill itself was quite small. What could have been an excellent meal turned to be more of a zoo scene. I do recommend this place, but would call in advance to make sure no large groups were showing up.
Feb 6th, 2012, 09:35 AM
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Day 8 – Saturday
Once again no monkeys this morning. As per recommendations given in this forum and also by a friend, we went to Café Milagro for breakfast and what a great breakfast place this is. The perfect café serving the perfect coffee (along with great omelets, etc). After breakfast we took the local bus to Manual Antonio Park. There is a big public beach outside of the park, and a lively scene (more of a spring break type vibe than anywhere else we’d been to in CR). There was a long, slow line to buy tickets to get into the park. I overheard someone say that you can pickup tickets the afternoon before when there is little or no line, for the following day but I’m not sure this is a fact. There also were dozens of guides. The guides charge $20pp (does not include admission), general admission is $10 (it’s cheaper for CR citizens). We decided to go without a guide. There were so many guided groups, that it’s easy enough to listen in to what they were talking about and pointing to.
There were lots of people, many carrying picnic gear for the beach inside the park. We followed the crowd to Manual Antonio beach. It was mobbed. There are also rest rooms and showers available here. In the area there were dozens of monkeys, along with some sloths and raccoons. The raccoons were having a field day trying to steal food and the monkeys were everywhere. We kept walking along the beach trail, and the crowd pretty much dissipated. The rest of the beaches we saw were beautiful and empty. Definitely worth spending time there if you can. We exited the park at a different spot, and chatted briefly with a park ranger. We asked him where we should have lunch and he recommended Marlins. As you exit the park, there is a strip of vendors. We peaked in a few of the booths, the the vendors seemed willing to make a deal, but we didn’t get anything.
We went to Marlins for lunch. The waiter recommended the combo fish platter for 2. We misunderstood the price (it was more than we would have typically spent for lunch, I think about $40), but we went with it. It was enormous! Easily could be shared by 3 or even 4. There was grilled mahi mahi, seared tuna, jumbo shrimp and fried calamari, along with 2 dipping sauces. We each also got a plate of vegetables and potatoes. Needless to say, it was delicious and we ate the entire thing!
After lunch we poked our heads into a couple of souvenir shops, and picked out a few items in one on the main drag. There was a young girl who offered help but spoke little English. We asked if she could make a deal since we had a few items we wanted to purchase. Either she didn’t understand or wasn’t in the authority to bargain, so no deal on her behalf. But her (I believe) manager came over, and he did speak English, was more than happy to make a deal, so that being said, it’s definitely worth giving bargaining a try.
After returning to Tulemar (by the bus), we returned to the pool. Afterwards we cleaned up and watched the sunset from our balcony with the last of our fruit and a couple of beers (we had previously bought at the grocery store).
We had asked the cab driver from the night before, where he likes to eat, and he recommended, a more “local” joint, a bit past Quepos, called Kukula. We also asked Diego about it, and he said it’s a great local favorite so we decided to go a bit off the beaten path and try it. Diego arranged for a cab. This also had an open kitchen (many of the “tipico” places do). When we arrived there was only 1 other family there, and someone selling shoes to the staff (we actually saw someone sell pots and pans in restaurants back in La Fortuna). We shared the guacamole and plantain chips for a starter. The plantain chips served here more resembled a potato pancake and they were delicious! The food here was very simple and fresh (we both ordered fish). I don’t know if it’s worth the ride, but if in or near the Quepos area, it’s a pleasant low key, neighborhood spot to consider.
Once again no monkeys this morning. As per recommendations given in this forum and also by a friend, we went to Café Milagro for breakfast and what a great breakfast place this is. The perfect café serving the perfect coffee (along with great omelets, etc). After breakfast we took the local bus to Manual Antonio Park. There is a big public beach outside of the park, and a lively scene (more of a spring break type vibe than anywhere else we’d been to in CR). There was a long, slow line to buy tickets to get into the park. I overheard someone say that you can pickup tickets the afternoon before when there is little or no line, for the following day but I’m not sure this is a fact. There also were dozens of guides. The guides charge $20pp (does not include admission), general admission is $10 (it’s cheaper for CR citizens). We decided to go without a guide. There were so many guided groups, that it’s easy enough to listen in to what they were talking about and pointing to.
There were lots of people, many carrying picnic gear for the beach inside the park. We followed the crowd to Manual Antonio beach. It was mobbed. There are also rest rooms and showers available here. In the area there were dozens of monkeys, along with some sloths and raccoons. The raccoons were having a field day trying to steal food and the monkeys were everywhere. We kept walking along the beach trail, and the crowd pretty much dissipated. The rest of the beaches we saw were beautiful and empty. Definitely worth spending time there if you can. We exited the park at a different spot, and chatted briefly with a park ranger. We asked him where we should have lunch and he recommended Marlins. As you exit the park, there is a strip of vendors. We peaked in a few of the booths, the the vendors seemed willing to make a deal, but we didn’t get anything.
We went to Marlins for lunch. The waiter recommended the combo fish platter for 2. We misunderstood the price (it was more than we would have typically spent for lunch, I think about $40), but we went with it. It was enormous! Easily could be shared by 3 or even 4. There was grilled mahi mahi, seared tuna, jumbo shrimp and fried calamari, along with 2 dipping sauces. We each also got a plate of vegetables and potatoes. Needless to say, it was delicious and we ate the entire thing!
After lunch we poked our heads into a couple of souvenir shops, and picked out a few items in one on the main drag. There was a young girl who offered help but spoke little English. We asked if she could make a deal since we had a few items we wanted to purchase. Either she didn’t understand or wasn’t in the authority to bargain, so no deal on her behalf. But her (I believe) manager came over, and he did speak English, was more than happy to make a deal, so that being said, it’s definitely worth giving bargaining a try.
After returning to Tulemar (by the bus), we returned to the pool. Afterwards we cleaned up and watched the sunset from our balcony with the last of our fruit and a couple of beers (we had previously bought at the grocery store).
We had asked the cab driver from the night before, where he likes to eat, and he recommended, a more “local” joint, a bit past Quepos, called Kukula. We also asked Diego about it, and he said it’s a great local favorite so we decided to go a bit off the beaten path and try it. Diego arranged for a cab. This also had an open kitchen (many of the “tipico” places do). When we arrived there was only 1 other family there, and someone selling shoes to the staff (we actually saw someone sell pots and pans in restaurants back in La Fortuna). We shared the guacamole and plantain chips for a starter. The plantain chips served here more resembled a potato pancake and they were delicious! The food here was very simple and fresh (we both ordered fish). I don’t know if it’s worth the ride, but if in or near the Quepos area, it’s a pleasant low key, neighborhood spot to consider.
Feb 7th, 2012, 10:32 AM
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Day 9 – Sunday
It’s our last morning at Tulemar and we were determined to see the monkeys! We woke up bright and early, and decided to sit out on the balcony with a lookout for monkeys. Finally heard the rustling in the trees and sure enough the monkeys were making their morning rounds. As it turns out, Mot Mot lower, was a bit too low. The balcony, not in the tree line of their path, but the upper level was big time. These monkeys were having a field day. We watched as much as we could see, but what a sight for the people staying in that unit. There were dozens passing through, even going for a swing in the hammock.
After our monkey viewing, it was back to Café Milagro for breakfast. Our driver was picking us up around noon, so we decided to make a last visit to the beach (via paved road, not the nature trails!).
Bill showed up to help us with our bags and to check us out. Our driver this time was Jose, who works for Wilson. Wilson had already been booked for that date. Jose was perfectly fine, and the trip to Santa Anna, went by pretty quickly. He made one stop on a bridge to view the crocodiles (which we didn’t bother stopping at on the way to Tulemar) down below. Water level was low so the place was crawling with crocs. It was the things nightmares are made of. They are ugly creatures to say the least.
We decided to spend our last night at Casa Bella Rita in Santa Anna to be closer to the airport. The area leading to the B&B was not particularly interesting or scenic, but the B&B itself, along with it’s owners (Steve and Rita) is charming. In fact there’s lovely views from the back of the house. The place is very comfortable with plenty of sitting areas both indoors and out. We met the various pets (dogs and birds) then went out for lunch. Rita directed us to the only lunch place in the area, Sabor a Pueblo. Not much along the way. We walked (maybe ¾ mile), and there actually was some sidewalk en-route, so it wasn’t too bad, but not much to see along the way.
Back at the B&B we were introduced to the other family staying there. We had planned in advance for Steve to prepare us dinner (this is optional at a cost of $15-20pp depending on the meal). The other family opted for dinner as well, so all of us (including Rita and Steve) had a nice family meal. Turns out Rita was a caterer, but Steve does all the cooking now. When we arranged this, they said they cook whatever we wanted. I had read that Steve makes great ribs so that’s what I requested. The ribs were excellent. I had ribs one other time in CR, and they weren’t nearly as good. If we had to go out to dinner, we would have needed a cab. There wasn’t much in the immediate area, so having the home cooked meal here is the way to go, and worth every penny. They also offer wine and beer (at a minimal fee).
It’s our last morning at Tulemar and we were determined to see the monkeys! We woke up bright and early, and decided to sit out on the balcony with a lookout for monkeys. Finally heard the rustling in the trees and sure enough the monkeys were making their morning rounds. As it turns out, Mot Mot lower, was a bit too low. The balcony, not in the tree line of their path, but the upper level was big time. These monkeys were having a field day. We watched as much as we could see, but what a sight for the people staying in that unit. There were dozens passing through, even going for a swing in the hammock.
After our monkey viewing, it was back to Café Milagro for breakfast. Our driver was picking us up around noon, so we decided to make a last visit to the beach (via paved road, not the nature trails!).
Bill showed up to help us with our bags and to check us out. Our driver this time was Jose, who works for Wilson. Wilson had already been booked for that date. Jose was perfectly fine, and the trip to Santa Anna, went by pretty quickly. He made one stop on a bridge to view the crocodiles (which we didn’t bother stopping at on the way to Tulemar) down below. Water level was low so the place was crawling with crocs. It was the things nightmares are made of. They are ugly creatures to say the least.
We decided to spend our last night at Casa Bella Rita in Santa Anna to be closer to the airport. The area leading to the B&B was not particularly interesting or scenic, but the B&B itself, along with it’s owners (Steve and Rita) is charming. In fact there’s lovely views from the back of the house. The place is very comfortable with plenty of sitting areas both indoors and out. We met the various pets (dogs and birds) then went out for lunch. Rita directed us to the only lunch place in the area, Sabor a Pueblo. Not much along the way. We walked (maybe ¾ mile), and there actually was some sidewalk en-route, so it wasn’t too bad, but not much to see along the way.
Back at the B&B we were introduced to the other family staying there. We had planned in advance for Steve to prepare us dinner (this is optional at a cost of $15-20pp depending on the meal). The other family opted for dinner as well, so all of us (including Rita and Steve) had a nice family meal. Turns out Rita was a caterer, but Steve does all the cooking now. When we arranged this, they said they cook whatever we wanted. I had read that Steve makes great ribs so that’s what I requested. The ribs were excellent. I had ribs one other time in CR, and they weren’t nearly as good. If we had to go out to dinner, we would have needed a cab. There wasn’t much in the immediate area, so having the home cooked meal here is the way to go, and worth every penny. They also offer wine and beer (at a minimal fee).
Feb 10th, 2012, 09:49 AM
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Nice report, when we stayed at Tulemar (actually Buena Vista Villas) our villa was in the path of the monkeys, I was woken up every morning by the monkeys making their way over our roof into the jungle, it was quite amusing. At night, when we were having our cocktails on the deck, they would make their way back. Highlight of our stay there.
