Arenal, Tortuguero, SJ Report - semi-budget
Jul 26th, 2009, 11:31 AM
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Arenal, Tortuguero, SJ Report - semi-budget
Ah well, my PVSD (post-vacation stress disorder) is starting to subside now that we've been home a few days. Thanks so much to the generous, enthusiastic and knowledgeable Fodorites who helped me figure out the trip. I also have to mention that the trip wouldn't have been the same without the caring, amazing Ticos we met along the way.
My preferred style of travel to a new country is to try and experience different types of accomodations, typical foods, and adventures. I am less interested in large tours, resorts or chain hotels. My kids are pretty adventuresome and old enough to be open to the unexpected. I'm a single mom, so I'm always looking for a relatively low-cost option. Our entire trip, including airfare and souvenirs, was around $3,000.
I went to Costa Rica with my 3 kids; two sons, 21 and 18, and a daughter, 17, to meet up with my oldest, Jesse, after his summer semester abroad studying Tropical Biology with OTS (Organization for Tropical Studies). Sam and Zoe and I arrived in San Jose from Chicago after a 4:30 am cab and a two-hour layover in Miami at 1:00 pm. We each had a rolling carry-on and after changing $100 at the airport, flew through the relaxed customs and easily rendezvoused with Jesse outside. I had read here that you could skip the 12% rental tax if you took a $4 cab to the rental agency instead of their shuttle. I called the toll-free number before we left, and confirmed that to be true. So we hopped in a taxi and drove the short distance to Hertz where I'd reserved a Daihatsu Terios 4X4 for our first leg of the trip - $23/day! I waived the CDW, they waived the 12%, but it's required that you purchase personal damage insurance. The grand total was $120 for 3 days. I decided to rent a cell phone for the part of the trip where I was driving, just in case. The cost to rent the phone was $2.50 plus 99 cents per minute. I had not informed Mastercard that I was traveling out of the US, and the second charge was denied until we called and resolved that. It's a good idea to remember to do this before you leave!
It has been a while since I drove a stick, so I was admittedly nervous and none of my kids know how to drive a manual car (I've got Grandpa on that one now!), but it was no problem. I really didn't want to start the trip in the city, so as we arrived so early in the day, I had decided to head for the hills, well, volcano. The road to Arenal was well-marked, well-paved, scenic and curvy. The Ticos are a lot braver than I am about passing on a curve, but there wasn't a tremendous amount of traffic either. The most difficult part was keeping my eyes on the road as the overlooks were stunning, the fields verdant with the tropical plants I've got in my house. We stopped for a snack around La Tigre, some cheesy corn rings that got a mixed review, and some chewy guava cookies. Onward and upwards through small communities, each with the requisite church, school, sodas and soccer pitch.
We arrived in La Fortuna after about 2 1/4 hours without a hotel reservation. The day before we left, I was worried about not having received a confirmation for our three-day stay from the Arenal Observatory Lodge, my first choice. The reason I had no confirmation was because they didn't have my reservation and are booked solid through August! Argh. We drove around the volcano, partially shrouded in clouds, through the town filled with restaurants, shops, and accomodations, past the larger resorts I'd read about, and just after Tabacon Springs, we found the Tourist Information center. I have booked hotels around the world at these local resources, and I drove right in. Roger was fantastic. He tried in vain to score us a room at AOL. My main desire was to be on the active side of the volcano and Roger suggested we stay at Linda Vista del Norte, a place I'd not heard of. They only had a junior suite for the 2nd and 3rd nights. I took it. I told Roger that we didn't need anything fancy or large the first night and he showed us some pictures of the nearby Erupciones B&B for $70 including breakfast. We paid Roger for the three nights and drove the short distance to Erupciones. It was perfect, a spanking clean blue and orange stucco half of a two-unit cabinita, with a high, sloping roof and a porch, facing the west flank of Arenal. The room had two double beds, a TV and a clean bathroom with a big, tiled shower. No clock, which we rarely had at a hotel (why?) - bring a travel clock or watch with alarm. The owners raise Arabian horses and his mare had just foaled a week ago. That was an incredible addition to the view as they were encamped right outside our door, behind a subtle fence. We relaxed a bit and then walked over to El Novilla steakhouse, which has been recommended here before. We had lomo with garlic, plain and with black pepper (pimiento), yuca fries, thick and meaty, salads and delicious flan. Add my name to the folks who liked it! We walked back to the Inn, listening to the frogs and insects sing, and watched the stars until bedtime. Breakfast was fresh eggs, toast, fruit, great coffee and hot chocolate on the owner's front porch. We headed out for our first full day of hiking and fun.
This first entry is so long because of travel logistics...yikes!
My preferred style of travel to a new country is to try and experience different types of accomodations, typical foods, and adventures. I am less interested in large tours, resorts or chain hotels. My kids are pretty adventuresome and old enough to be open to the unexpected. I'm a single mom, so I'm always looking for a relatively low-cost option. Our entire trip, including airfare and souvenirs, was around $3,000.
I went to Costa Rica with my 3 kids; two sons, 21 and 18, and a daughter, 17, to meet up with my oldest, Jesse, after his summer semester abroad studying Tropical Biology with OTS (Organization for Tropical Studies). Sam and Zoe and I arrived in San Jose from Chicago after a 4:30 am cab and a two-hour layover in Miami at 1:00 pm. We each had a rolling carry-on and after changing $100 at the airport, flew through the relaxed customs and easily rendezvoused with Jesse outside. I had read here that you could skip the 12% rental tax if you took a $4 cab to the rental agency instead of their shuttle. I called the toll-free number before we left, and confirmed that to be true. So we hopped in a taxi and drove the short distance to Hertz where I'd reserved a Daihatsu Terios 4X4 for our first leg of the trip - $23/day! I waived the CDW, they waived the 12%, but it's required that you purchase personal damage insurance. The grand total was $120 for 3 days. I decided to rent a cell phone for the part of the trip where I was driving, just in case. The cost to rent the phone was $2.50 plus 99 cents per minute. I had not informed Mastercard that I was traveling out of the US, and the second charge was denied until we called and resolved that. It's a good idea to remember to do this before you leave!
It has been a while since I drove a stick, so I was admittedly nervous and none of my kids know how to drive a manual car (I've got Grandpa on that one now!), but it was no problem. I really didn't want to start the trip in the city, so as we arrived so early in the day, I had decided to head for the hills, well, volcano. The road to Arenal was well-marked, well-paved, scenic and curvy. The Ticos are a lot braver than I am about passing on a curve, but there wasn't a tremendous amount of traffic either. The most difficult part was keeping my eyes on the road as the overlooks were stunning, the fields verdant with the tropical plants I've got in my house. We stopped for a snack around La Tigre, some cheesy corn rings that got a mixed review, and some chewy guava cookies. Onward and upwards through small communities, each with the requisite church, school, sodas and soccer pitch.
We arrived in La Fortuna after about 2 1/4 hours without a hotel reservation. The day before we left, I was worried about not having received a confirmation for our three-day stay from the Arenal Observatory Lodge, my first choice. The reason I had no confirmation was because they didn't have my reservation and are booked solid through August! Argh. We drove around the volcano, partially shrouded in clouds, through the town filled with restaurants, shops, and accomodations, past the larger resorts I'd read about, and just after Tabacon Springs, we found the Tourist Information center. I have booked hotels around the world at these local resources, and I drove right in. Roger was fantastic. He tried in vain to score us a room at AOL. My main desire was to be on the active side of the volcano and Roger suggested we stay at Linda Vista del Norte, a place I'd not heard of. They only had a junior suite for the 2nd and 3rd nights. I took it. I told Roger that we didn't need anything fancy or large the first night and he showed us some pictures of the nearby Erupciones B&B for $70 including breakfast. We paid Roger for the three nights and drove the short distance to Erupciones. It was perfect, a spanking clean blue and orange stucco half of a two-unit cabinita, with a high, sloping roof and a porch, facing the west flank of Arenal. The room had two double beds, a TV and a clean bathroom with a big, tiled shower. No clock, which we rarely had at a hotel (why?) - bring a travel clock or watch with alarm. The owners raise Arabian horses and his mare had just foaled a week ago. That was an incredible addition to the view as they were encamped right outside our door, behind a subtle fence. We relaxed a bit and then walked over to El Novilla steakhouse, which has been recommended here before. We had lomo with garlic, plain and with black pepper (pimiento), yuca fries, thick and meaty, salads and delicious flan. Add my name to the folks who liked it! We walked back to the Inn, listening to the frogs and insects sing, and watched the stars until bedtime. Breakfast was fresh eggs, toast, fruit, great coffee and hot chocolate on the owner's front porch. We headed out for our first full day of hiking and fun.
This first entry is so long because of travel logistics...yikes!
Jul 26th, 2009, 01:08 PM
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Arenal/ La Fortuna
After breakfast, we drove to the Hanging Bridges. Be sure to bring a student ID for a discount; $12 instead of $22 for the hike. The tours are offered at 9 am, 10 am, 1 pm, 2 pm and we arreived at 10:20, so we self-toured for about 2 1/2 hours with the aide of my biology-minded son. It was hot and a beautiful hike, with gorgeous vistas and lush vegetation. We saw Morpho butterflies, macaws, an eyelash viper, click beetles and armies of leaf-cutter ants parading everywhere with their oversized loads. We took a dotted-line, optional detour to a mirador (overlook and encountered a troupe of white-faced capuchin monkeys. They objected to our presence and broke off dead branches to take aim and throw at us! Ginger, bromeliads and colorful butterflies everywhere. Then to town and lunch across from the plaza at La Parada Soda for chicken and beef casados and arroz con camarones, all inexpensive, filling and delicious.
We thought we would check-in at our new hotel, but time was ticking, so we headed for the Cataratas de La Fortuna, the stunning waterfall on the northwest side of the volcano. The ride to the falls was seriously bumpy and the 4X4 became necessary for the first time. Admission was $8 and we changed into bathing suits in the bathrooms. The guide book said a 25-50 minute climb, but the stairway carved out of the rock took us about 20 minutes tops, with peeks of the falls and the roar increasing as we descended. At the bottom, the kids tried to swim into the falls. The force of the water keeps you at a safe distance. We walked around using the short stairs toward the left to the sandy beach. We waded up and down the creek formed by the the falls, carefully setting our feet against the current as we climbed over rocks. Lots of fun and a frozen candy bar from the vendor back at the top. A fun hike for the afternoon.
On our way out, the sun poured in and Arenal was etched against the late afternoon sun, with a protective ring of clouds just below the rim. We stopped and stared and snapped our cameras all the way back around the volcano. Although we were headed to the northeast part, you can't drive due east to get there as there's no road along the northern edge. Circumnavigating the volcano was the best views we had the whole time we were there. Don't wait for a better view, take the picture now!
Linda Vista del Norte is off the road to AOL, which is hilariously potholed. The first 1/2 mile or so it's nearly impossible to dodge them, so go slowly and pretend you're on a roller coaster. We stopped because two other cars had stopped and people were standing and pointing at a troupe of howler monkeys. The hotel is perched up high, with small buildings scattered around, beautiful landscaping, a zero-depth pool and hot tub, and large restaurant. Our junior suite #23 was not too close to the public areas and faced both Lake Arenal and the volcano through a large enclosed porch and double glass doors. The room was tiled, clean, with a flat screen-TV and cable, refrigerator, hair dryer and small sitting area. The shower had a heavy curtain to separate it from the rest of the bath. Breakfast was nice, with fresh fruits, omelets to order and the more typical costa rican fare of gallo pinto, plantains, toast and even pancakes. We had dinner in the restaurant both nights and enjoyed the fresh tilapia and hearts of palm salads. We wrapped up dessert to take back to our room, too. Our room was $136/night, including taxes and breakfast.
After dinner, we grabbed our binoculars to watch for lava, and unbelievably, there it was! Two trails of the unmistakable neon red, moving down the volcano near the top! We learned later that Arenal doesn't spew liquid lava, but rather boulders and rocks that break up as they tumble down. We were so excited and so, so lucky!!
We slept to the sound of violent storms, anticipating white water rafting in the morning.
After breakfast, we drove to the Hanging Bridges. Be sure to bring a student ID for a discount; $12 instead of $22 for the hike. The tours are offered at 9 am, 10 am, 1 pm, 2 pm and we arreived at 10:20, so we self-toured for about 2 1/2 hours with the aide of my biology-minded son. It was hot and a beautiful hike, with gorgeous vistas and lush vegetation. We saw Morpho butterflies, macaws, an eyelash viper, click beetles and armies of leaf-cutter ants parading everywhere with their oversized loads. We took a dotted-line, optional detour to a mirador (overlook and encountered a troupe of white-faced capuchin monkeys. They objected to our presence and broke off dead branches to take aim and throw at us! Ginger, bromeliads and colorful butterflies everywhere. Then to town and lunch across from the plaza at La Parada Soda for chicken and beef casados and arroz con camarones, all inexpensive, filling and delicious.
We thought we would check-in at our new hotel, but time was ticking, so we headed for the Cataratas de La Fortuna, the stunning waterfall on the northwest side of the volcano. The ride to the falls was seriously bumpy and the 4X4 became necessary for the first time. Admission was $8 and we changed into bathing suits in the bathrooms. The guide book said a 25-50 minute climb, but the stairway carved out of the rock took us about 20 minutes tops, with peeks of the falls and the roar increasing as we descended. At the bottom, the kids tried to swim into the falls. The force of the water keeps you at a safe distance. We walked around using the short stairs toward the left to the sandy beach. We waded up and down the creek formed by the the falls, carefully setting our feet against the current as we climbed over rocks. Lots of fun and a frozen candy bar from the vendor back at the top. A fun hike for the afternoon.
On our way out, the sun poured in and Arenal was etched against the late afternoon sun, with a protective ring of clouds just below the rim. We stopped and stared and snapped our cameras all the way back around the volcano. Although we were headed to the northeast part, you can't drive due east to get there as there's no road along the northern edge. Circumnavigating the volcano was the best views we had the whole time we were there. Don't wait for a better view, take the picture now!
Linda Vista del Norte is off the road to AOL, which is hilariously potholed. The first 1/2 mile or so it's nearly impossible to dodge them, so go slowly and pretend you're on a roller coaster. We stopped because two other cars had stopped and people were standing and pointing at a troupe of howler monkeys. The hotel is perched up high, with small buildings scattered around, beautiful landscaping, a zero-depth pool and hot tub, and large restaurant. Our junior suite #23 was not too close to the public areas and faced both Lake Arenal and the volcano through a large enclosed porch and double glass doors. The room was tiled, clean, with a flat screen-TV and cable, refrigerator, hair dryer and small sitting area. The shower had a heavy curtain to separate it from the rest of the bath. Breakfast was nice, with fresh fruits, omelets to order and the more typical costa rican fare of gallo pinto, plantains, toast and even pancakes. We had dinner in the restaurant both nights and enjoyed the fresh tilapia and hearts of palm salads. We wrapped up dessert to take back to our room, too. Our room was $136/night, including taxes and breakfast.
After dinner, we grabbed our binoculars to watch for lava, and unbelievably, there it was! Two trails of the unmistakable neon red, moving down the volcano near the top! We learned later that Arenal doesn't spew liquid lava, but rather boulders and rocks that break up as they tumble down. We were so excited and so, so lucky!!
We slept to the sound of violent storms, anticipating white water rafting in the morning.
Jul 26th, 2009, 05:32 PM
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Thanks for the encouragement!
Arenal / Rafting
After a delicious breakfast and a look through the glass-walled dining room's telescope, Bernardo drove us in a van to Desafio Aventures for our white-water rafting trip down the II-III Rio Balsa. Desafio couldn't/wouldn't pick us up as their van was full and the town taxis wanted to charge us $40/each way! I was nervous about the rafting (not a strong swimmer and almost drowned once) and thought I'd relax and let someone else drive today. It was raining in La Fortuna and we waited for the rest of the folks to arrive while checking our e-mail on their free computers. We joined the van and began our 45 minute trip to the put-in for the Balsa. About midway, we stopped at a roadside fruit stand to buy snacks and fruits. I pointed to an unfamiliar looking fruit (vegie?) and asked Que es? The answer was jocote. (I looked it up later to find out it was a purple mombin, LOL, like that helps). I picked out a couple and the young man manning the cash picked out two different ones and traded them for my apparently inferior fruits. When I asked Quanto questa?, he waved me off and told me to give it a try. How nice! he was as interested in my new experience as I was! and yum! The fruit looks like a misshapen Roma tomato with a large oblong pit and tastes kind of like a mango-pear.
We arrived at the launch to brilliant sunshine and after a recap of the instructions we received on the ride, Ariel, our leader, broke us up into groups of six. There was a safety kayak following us and "paparazzi" stationed along the way. Our guide was Edgar, with a great sense of humor, a knowledge of the birds and trees on the river, and a commanding, reassuring captain for us newbies. He asked mischieviously if we were ready for a surprise. The other woman on our boat and I looked at each other and shook our heads no. The four kids were grinning and egging him on. But he deferred to my probably panicked expression and explained that we could flip the boat for fun in calmer waters. Okayyy...well, we flipped and twirled and had a blast. With a paddle high-five, a loud "pura vida" and a mighty slap on the river, we laughed our way down Rio Balsa. We stopped halfway for fresh pineapple and bananas laid out on the underside of the kayak. We changed our clothes at a rest stop and reboarded the bus for lunch, which was included, at a riverside cafe for comida tipico. I only had $20 plus some for a tip, so they sold me the CD for $20. It contains 35 pix of us documenting an exhilerating, out-of-my-comfort zone experience. I'm ready for a bigger, better river next! I would absolutely recommend Desafio to anyone and look forward to going canyoning with them next trip.
Bernardo was waiting for us at Desafio at 4:30 and we headed back to Linda Vista. It was still clouded over in La Fortuna and I realized again how lucky we'd been weather-wise. My intention was to shower and return to town for dinner but a crazy, impressive thunderstorm arrived and we opted for the hotel restaurant again. We watched some TV (Will Smith in "I, Robot" or rather en Espanol, "Yo, Robot" haha), ate Tres Leches cake, watched the storm and slept.
Arenal / Rafting
After a delicious breakfast and a look through the glass-walled dining room's telescope, Bernardo drove us in a van to Desafio Aventures for our white-water rafting trip down the II-III Rio Balsa. Desafio couldn't/wouldn't pick us up as their van was full and the town taxis wanted to charge us $40/each way! I was nervous about the rafting (not a strong swimmer and almost drowned once) and thought I'd relax and let someone else drive today. It was raining in La Fortuna and we waited for the rest of the folks to arrive while checking our e-mail on their free computers. We joined the van and began our 45 minute trip to the put-in for the Balsa. About midway, we stopped at a roadside fruit stand to buy snacks and fruits. I pointed to an unfamiliar looking fruit (vegie?) and asked Que es? The answer was jocote. (I looked it up later to find out it was a purple mombin, LOL, like that helps). I picked out a couple and the young man manning the cash picked out two different ones and traded them for my apparently inferior fruits. When I asked Quanto questa?, he waved me off and told me to give it a try. How nice! he was as interested in my new experience as I was! and yum! The fruit looks like a misshapen Roma tomato with a large oblong pit and tastes kind of like a mango-pear.
We arrived at the launch to brilliant sunshine and after a recap of the instructions we received on the ride, Ariel, our leader, broke us up into groups of six. There was a safety kayak following us and "paparazzi" stationed along the way. Our guide was Edgar, with a great sense of humor, a knowledge of the birds and trees on the river, and a commanding, reassuring captain for us newbies. He asked mischieviously if we were ready for a surprise. The other woman on our boat and I looked at each other and shook our heads no. The four kids were grinning and egging him on. But he deferred to my probably panicked expression and explained that we could flip the boat for fun in calmer waters. Okayyy...well, we flipped and twirled and had a blast. With a paddle high-five, a loud "pura vida" and a mighty slap on the river, we laughed our way down Rio Balsa. We stopped halfway for fresh pineapple and bananas laid out on the underside of the kayak. We changed our clothes at a rest stop and reboarded the bus for lunch, which was included, at a riverside cafe for comida tipico. I only had $20 plus some for a tip, so they sold me the CD for $20. It contains 35 pix of us documenting an exhilerating, out-of-my-comfort zone experience. I'm ready for a bigger, better river next! I would absolutely recommend Desafio to anyone and look forward to going canyoning with them next trip.
Bernardo was waiting for us at Desafio at 4:30 and we headed back to Linda Vista. It was still clouded over in La Fortuna and I realized again how lucky we'd been weather-wise. My intention was to shower and return to town for dinner but a crazy, impressive thunderstorm arrived and we opted for the hotel restaurant again. We watched some TV (Will Smith in "I, Robot" or rather en Espanol, "Yo, Robot" haha), ate Tres Leches cake, watched the storm and slept.
Jul 27th, 2009, 09:10 AM
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cheryl, I'm so glad you went to El Novillo; we heard it changed owners and chefs and were wondering if it was still good. It was one of my husband's favorite spots. Glad you loved the rafting - brave girl to do it!
Jul 27th, 2009, 01:22 PM
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if someone had pointed out that rafting necessarily means the river is shallow i would have calmed down a lot sooner! i envisioned myself flying out of the boat and cruising feet-first into ocean depths, lol.
more soon...thanks for reading!
more soon...thanks for reading!
Jul 27th, 2009, 01:59 PM
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That's funny; they told us to do the dead man's float when we got tossed, so I never realized how shallow it was either. At one point, two guys on our trip got tossed, and they just stood up in the river!
Jul 27th, 2009, 03:44 PM
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Dead man's float? That's a new one. We were told to head down the rapids feet first!
Great report Cheryl. Linda Vista del Norte always looked great to me so wonderful getting first hand perspective.
Great report Cheryl. Linda Vista del Norte always looked great to me so wonderful getting first hand perspective.
Jul 27th, 2009, 03:52 PM
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Arenal / San Jose - July 17
We fell asleep to a storm and awoke to continuous rain, nothing dramatic but steady. I've forgotten to mention how much I loved the cafe con leche each morning. I always need a cup in the morning to get me going and the local beans do the trick deliciously. I would recommend Linda Vista del Norte to anyone wanting to stay on the north end who cannot get into AOL. Yes, the road is nasty, but doable. It's our last day in the area and Brian, the desk manager, helped us decide to spend our final morning hiking in Parque Nacional Volcan Arenal. He and I had a fascinating conversation about the political and social problems facing Costa Rica in the light of her relative financial stability, high literacy rate and influx of immigrants. There is a worry about some of the Colombians who are moving here and their ties to the drug trade. As CR has no army, the US is apparently arming the police force in recognition of the country's general peacefulness and possible naivete. Here's hoping that the people's values and respect for themselves can stave off any organized crime from taking hold and tarnishing the paradise that Costa Rica has worked so hard to protect.
The park is on the rutted road back towards town, so we said goodbye, loaded the car and we're off. We suited up in our rain ponchos and took the 2 mile round-trip hike to the 1992 eruption site. The beginning of the walk is through emerging bamboo and shrubby trees taking root in the secondary forest, which suddenly gives way to a massive field of deep black, nearly iridescent lava boulders and rocks. The trail is marked by yellow-ribboned stakes at this point and we climbed more carefully as everything was slick from the rain. The scale is immense and it's sobering to imagine these gigantic boulders hurtling down the volcano, flattening and burning through vegetation, exploding into smaller rocks and stones as they fell. The view towards Lake Arenal is especially impressive and we lingered for the maximum time suggested - 20 minutes. I think anyone going to the area should include a visit to the Parque Nacional; it gives perspective to the location and affords magnificent views of the volcano area even on a misty, rainy day.
We were ravenous and stopped for lunch at La Choza de Laurel in La Fortuna. Sometimes an oft-recommended spot rests on its, um, laurels (sorry), but La Choza was fantastic. The boys and I demolished a whole rotisserie chicken, served with fabulous lemony guacamole and pico gallo, a shredded salad, and fresh, tender corn tortillas. Mmm, best tacos ever! Zoe's arroz con pollo was good, but, we'll remember those tacos...
The drive back to San Jose was through fog and clouds which was a bit more nerve-wracking than the trip up, but I took it easy and got the car back without incident to Hertz. I was a bit late due to rush hour traffic into the city but there were no problems checking out, no drama, no add-ons. They called us a cab and we headed to Hotel Inca Real, who we called on the way back to town. One note about the rental phone - it was handy once we got to San Jose but the reception in Arenal was nil. Our driver made a stop at an ATM for a cash infusion. As I posted elsewhere, my son and I were so busy deciding if we needed another transaction that the warning beeps went unheeded, and the machine ate my card! It was Friday after 5:00 and the driver kindly called customer service for us but everything was closed for the weekend. In the end, I just used Jesse's ATM card and emptied his account! Just a minor hiccup in the trip, but we sure paid attention after that!
I chose Hotel Inca Real for its close proximity to Gran Terminal de Caribe (locally known as Caribenos), as we were taking the morning bus to Tortuguero. The hotel itself is charming inside, with an interior courtyard surrounded by balconies of wrought-iron. Our first room was enormous, along the front of the hotel. Although the desk clerk assured me that after 9 pm the neighborhood quiets down, by 10:00 it was still very loud and chaotic. I hate to make trouble like this, but the night clerk switched the room without any hint of aggravation. The room was markedly smaller, and blessedly quiet. The breakfast was meager, just toast and eggs and coffee - no juice, no fruit, no tea except iced. The price was $80 which included a 10% discount for cash. The neighborhood was...colorful. Plenty of transvestite prostitutes but surprisingly, not particularly rundown. We walked to our restaurant for the night, Cafe Moro, which was literally around the corner, but I wouldn't take a midnight stroll, that's for certain.
My son's new friends from OTS happened to be in town to celebrate one of the professor's birthdays and were staying in a very nice hostel a couple blocks away; Tranquilo Backbackers. The common room was bright, with a bar and lots of happy, friendly travelers. We took his two girlfriends to dinner at Cafe Moro, which is in a 75 year-old Moroccan castle. The menu was extensive with both Moroccan and Italian specialties. The food was good but not outstanding. I had lamb couscous, which was tender and fragrant but very salty. The shrimp pasta and pesto oreganato fared better.
Jesse stayed to party with his friends and the three of us walked quickly and with purpose back to Inca Real. On the way, we spotted a familiar looking transvestite pick up some business. Kind of a bizarre day of mixed sights!
We fell asleep to a storm and awoke to continuous rain, nothing dramatic but steady. I've forgotten to mention how much I loved the cafe con leche each morning. I always need a cup in the morning to get me going and the local beans do the trick deliciously. I would recommend Linda Vista del Norte to anyone wanting to stay on the north end who cannot get into AOL. Yes, the road is nasty, but doable. It's our last day in the area and Brian, the desk manager, helped us decide to spend our final morning hiking in Parque Nacional Volcan Arenal. He and I had a fascinating conversation about the political and social problems facing Costa Rica in the light of her relative financial stability, high literacy rate and influx of immigrants. There is a worry about some of the Colombians who are moving here and their ties to the drug trade. As CR has no army, the US is apparently arming the police force in recognition of the country's general peacefulness and possible naivete. Here's hoping that the people's values and respect for themselves can stave off any organized crime from taking hold and tarnishing the paradise that Costa Rica has worked so hard to protect.
The park is on the rutted road back towards town, so we said goodbye, loaded the car and we're off. We suited up in our rain ponchos and took the 2 mile round-trip hike to the 1992 eruption site. The beginning of the walk is through emerging bamboo and shrubby trees taking root in the secondary forest, which suddenly gives way to a massive field of deep black, nearly iridescent lava boulders and rocks. The trail is marked by yellow-ribboned stakes at this point and we climbed more carefully as everything was slick from the rain. The scale is immense and it's sobering to imagine these gigantic boulders hurtling down the volcano, flattening and burning through vegetation, exploding into smaller rocks and stones as they fell. The view towards Lake Arenal is especially impressive and we lingered for the maximum time suggested - 20 minutes. I think anyone going to the area should include a visit to the Parque Nacional; it gives perspective to the location and affords magnificent views of the volcano area even on a misty, rainy day.
We were ravenous and stopped for lunch at La Choza de Laurel in La Fortuna. Sometimes an oft-recommended spot rests on its, um, laurels (sorry), but La Choza was fantastic. The boys and I demolished a whole rotisserie chicken, served with fabulous lemony guacamole and pico gallo, a shredded salad, and fresh, tender corn tortillas. Mmm, best tacos ever! Zoe's arroz con pollo was good, but, we'll remember those tacos...
The drive back to San Jose was through fog and clouds which was a bit more nerve-wracking than the trip up, but I took it easy and got the car back without incident to Hertz. I was a bit late due to rush hour traffic into the city but there were no problems checking out, no drama, no add-ons. They called us a cab and we headed to Hotel Inca Real, who we called on the way back to town. One note about the rental phone - it was handy once we got to San Jose but the reception in Arenal was nil. Our driver made a stop at an ATM for a cash infusion. As I posted elsewhere, my son and I were so busy deciding if we needed another transaction that the warning beeps went unheeded, and the machine ate my card! It was Friday after 5:00 and the driver kindly called customer service for us but everything was closed for the weekend. In the end, I just used Jesse's ATM card and emptied his account! Just a minor hiccup in the trip, but we sure paid attention after that!
I chose Hotel Inca Real for its close proximity to Gran Terminal de Caribe (locally known as Caribenos), as we were taking the morning bus to Tortuguero. The hotel itself is charming inside, with an interior courtyard surrounded by balconies of wrought-iron. Our first room was enormous, along the front of the hotel. Although the desk clerk assured me that after 9 pm the neighborhood quiets down, by 10:00 it was still very loud and chaotic. I hate to make trouble like this, but the night clerk switched the room without any hint of aggravation. The room was markedly smaller, and blessedly quiet. The breakfast was meager, just toast and eggs and coffee - no juice, no fruit, no tea except iced. The price was $80 which included a 10% discount for cash. The neighborhood was...colorful. Plenty of transvestite prostitutes but surprisingly, not particularly rundown. We walked to our restaurant for the night, Cafe Moro, which was literally around the corner, but I wouldn't take a midnight stroll, that's for certain.
My son's new friends from OTS happened to be in town to celebrate one of the professor's birthdays and were staying in a very nice hostel a couple blocks away; Tranquilo Backbackers. The common room was bright, with a bar and lots of happy, friendly travelers. We took his two girlfriends to dinner at Cafe Moro, which is in a 75 year-old Moroccan castle. The menu was extensive with both Moroccan and Italian specialties. The food was good but not outstanding. I had lamb couscous, which was tender and fragrant but very salty. The shrimp pasta and pesto oreganato fared better.
Jesse stayed to party with his friends and the three of us walked quickly and with purpose back to Inca Real. On the way, we spotted a familiar looking transvestite pick up some business. Kind of a bizarre day of mixed sights!
Aug 1st, 2009, 08:21 PM
#17
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Tortuguero
sorry about the delay...on to the east coast
I was really focused on creating a more individualized touring experience in Tortuguero than the larger lodges can provide while keeping the cost the same or lower. After e-mailing with the Watsons, several Lodges and Daryl Loth (a well-thought of local Canadian-expat guide and the owner of Casa Marbella B&B in Tortuguero village), I decided to book room and board ONLY at Laguna Lodge. There is nothing on the site or travel books that mention this option, but I figured I'd ask and sure enough! the price was $50 per person per day. Although Daryl and the Watsons both book their tours with accomodations at the Laguna Lodge, my total cost was much less than they could offer and they advised me to take the room only rate. The Watsons were booked so I made arrangements with Daryl before I left. That left the travel logistics. I thought about going straight from Arenal to Tortuguero as volcanogirl suggested, but I had to return my rental car to San Jose anyway.
In the morning we walked the short 2 blocks to the bus station. Following the directions printed and confirmed with Daryl from Tortuguerovillage.com, we took the public bus from Gran Terminal de Caribe to Cariari. The printed directions were pretty accurate about not buying or believing the guys standing in front of the waiting buses. It is cheaper to go inside to the ticket booth and buy the ticket there. Although we arrived about 15 minutes before the 9 am bus, it was full, but they assured us that a second bus would be brought in shortly. Sure enough the additional bus pulled into the slot and that was quickly - nearly - filled. However, the driver couldn't leave until the bus was completely full, so we waited and waited and waited. This first leg of the trip is supposed to take two hours and I became worried that we would miss our connection to La Pavona. The man sitting in front of us noticed the commotion as I shuffled through my papers and took it upon himself to let the other passengers and the driver know that there were tourists on the bus trying to make a transfer! Finally, four passengers showed up and we departed. The bus was a comfortable coach bus, much nicer than the transit buses at home! We leaned back, turned up the Ipods, pulled out the books and relaxed. It was rainy and foggy as we pulled out of the capitol.
About forty minutes later, we came to a dead stop up high above the city. We sat for some time and finally, we craned out of the bus windows to see the avalanche that was blocking our way! Two guys exited their car, rolled up their sleeves and began throwing rocks, branches and other debris over the side of the road and eventually emergency vehicles from both directions arrived to direct the mounting traffic jam. It was clear we were now going to miss the next bus. I've missed the occasional flight or bus before, but never because of an avalanche!
Our new friend Juan was wearing a Coopetraca shirt and turned out to be a driver for the company. Juan called ahead and implored the bus to wait but it departed anyway (1/2 hour earlier than posted which is supposedly against several regulations according to Daryl). Before we arrived in Cariari, Juan had called a friend with a taxi and arranged for him to take us to the second bus station to purchase a boat ticket and then onward to La Pavona for $20. We hadn't asked him for his help, he simply took the initiative and single-handedly saved our day!
The bumpy road through the banana plantation was scenic and interesting as our driver knew much about the local banana industry. After the 45 minute ride, we arrived at the boat put-in at La Pavona. There are two competing local boat companies, Clic Clic and Coopetraca, and although Daryl's recommendation was to take Clic Clic, we felt an obvious loyalty to Juan's company! The low-slung open boats provide transport down the river to the village, stopping to drop off local passengers and their bags filled with kitchen staples and string-wrapped packages. The boat took about an hour and deposited us in Tortuguero Village. The last leg of the journey involved a $2 water taxi to Laguna Lodge. It sounds more complicated than it felt, except of course for the avalanche! The difference in price was substantial; a tour or van would have cost $40 per person, this route cost $10/person and took the same amount of time. I also enjoyed a glimpse of the more typical Tico travel life.
We were met at the Laguna Lodge dock by Nelson, the manager, and before we had checked in, a smiling waitress handed us a hot towel and a cold frothy virgin pina colada. They had held lunch for us which was a relief as we were really hungry. The beef casado was delicious and the salad bar was a surprising and welcome sight. All the meals are buffet style with cook-to-order stations. A flat grill provides fried eggs and pancakes for breakfast, steak, fish or chicken grilled for lunch and a pasta bar is open for dinner. The food was certainly plentiful, the dining hours generous and the room is delightful. The lodge is decorated whimsically throughout, with tile mosaics on signs, benches and stairs. The pool is especially beautiful and sparkling clean, with a waterfall and warm, clear water. Most of the rooms are grouped in fours and raised up with dark wood floors, screens,and a fan. Our room, #27, was in the owners section and has tiled floors and a concrete foundation instead. The covered porches have comfortable leather and wood rocking chairs, umbrellas and a large water cooler. The grounds are lushly landscaped and the property lies between the river and the sea. There is a botanical garden, a soccer pitch that my boys enjoyed, a lively bar with TV and WiFi, and easy access to the black sand beach. I was content to walk the grounds armed with a pair of binoculars, a camera and a Tortuguero bird guide and I'm not even a birder! I saw hummingbirds, bats, several herons including a juvenile yellow-crowned heron, big fat toads and a giant lazy iguana sunning in a tree outside our room.
Nelson informed us that it was necessary to book a turtle-watching tour by 3:00 so the guide could apply for that night's permit. He arranged for us to go with Juan (a different Juan!), a personal friend of his in town. Our tour was confirmed for the 8-10 pm slot, which was preferable to the 10-midnight time. We donned our dark clothing, sprayed ourselves with mosquito repellent and met Juan at the dock. We traveled ninja-style down the river, silently, and Juan pulled the boat up to the shore and helped us clamber up the rocks. He escorted us to the waiting station and we were warned not to use cameras, flashlights, cell phones or any other devices that could spook a nesting turtle. We only had to wait about 5 minutes before a licensed turtle spotter showed up and informed our guide that a turtle was laying eggs at station #26. We followed Juan in a single file line until we hit the beach. Juan extinguished his small pen light in favor of a red laser pointer, which apparently disturbs the turtles less.
I never imagined that the green turtle would be so immense- nearly 4 feet long, about 150-200 pounds. We crept quietly up behind her and I crouched down. To my utter amazement, I was less than a foot from the edge of her nest, and we watched as she braced her rear flippers, dipped her tail, and laid egg after egg. There were three or four other larger groups on the beach and we retreated so they could share the view. I was blown away and found myself reacting emotionally to the wonder and privilege of the moment. We doubled back to watch her deposit more of the approximately 100 eggs she would lay and then the other groups departed, leaving us and another small group to linger. We stayed with her for the entire two hours allotted. After she finished laying the eggs, she moved in front of the nest and began to cover the cache, using all four powerful flippers to throw sand on the two-foot deep hole. We were covered in flying sand and giddy with laughter. Eventually, we were able to follow her as she made her way slowly back to the sea, characteristically lumbering over the sand. Suddenly, she was lifted up by the waves and swiftly disappeared. However, the waves had also reached the nest, dooming the eggs she had labored over. My children were unusually affectionate, holding my hand, hugging my waist, arms around each others shoulders, giving respect and savoring the experience we'd been lucky to witness together. It was a poignant, moving spectacle of nature that I will never forget.
sorry about the delay...on to the east coast
I was really focused on creating a more individualized touring experience in Tortuguero than the larger lodges can provide while keeping the cost the same or lower. After e-mailing with the Watsons, several Lodges and Daryl Loth (a well-thought of local Canadian-expat guide and the owner of Casa Marbella B&B in Tortuguero village), I decided to book room and board ONLY at Laguna Lodge. There is nothing on the site or travel books that mention this option, but I figured I'd ask and sure enough! the price was $50 per person per day. Although Daryl and the Watsons both book their tours with accomodations at the Laguna Lodge, my total cost was much less than they could offer and they advised me to take the room only rate. The Watsons were booked so I made arrangements with Daryl before I left. That left the travel logistics. I thought about going straight from Arenal to Tortuguero as volcanogirl suggested, but I had to return my rental car to San Jose anyway.
In the morning we walked the short 2 blocks to the bus station. Following the directions printed and confirmed with Daryl from Tortuguerovillage.com, we took the public bus from Gran Terminal de Caribe to Cariari. The printed directions were pretty accurate about not buying or believing the guys standing in front of the waiting buses. It is cheaper to go inside to the ticket booth and buy the ticket there. Although we arrived about 15 minutes before the 9 am bus, it was full, but they assured us that a second bus would be brought in shortly. Sure enough the additional bus pulled into the slot and that was quickly - nearly - filled. However, the driver couldn't leave until the bus was completely full, so we waited and waited and waited. This first leg of the trip is supposed to take two hours and I became worried that we would miss our connection to La Pavona. The man sitting in front of us noticed the commotion as I shuffled through my papers and took it upon himself to let the other passengers and the driver know that there were tourists on the bus trying to make a transfer! Finally, four passengers showed up and we departed. The bus was a comfortable coach bus, much nicer than the transit buses at home! We leaned back, turned up the Ipods, pulled out the books and relaxed. It was rainy and foggy as we pulled out of the capitol.
About forty minutes later, we came to a dead stop up high above the city. We sat for some time and finally, we craned out of the bus windows to see the avalanche that was blocking our way! Two guys exited their car, rolled up their sleeves and began throwing rocks, branches and other debris over the side of the road and eventually emergency vehicles from both directions arrived to direct the mounting traffic jam. It was clear we were now going to miss the next bus. I've missed the occasional flight or bus before, but never because of an avalanche!
Our new friend Juan was wearing a Coopetraca shirt and turned out to be a driver for the company. Juan called ahead and implored the bus to wait but it departed anyway (1/2 hour earlier than posted which is supposedly against several regulations according to Daryl). Before we arrived in Cariari, Juan had called a friend with a taxi and arranged for him to take us to the second bus station to purchase a boat ticket and then onward to La Pavona for $20. We hadn't asked him for his help, he simply took the initiative and single-handedly saved our day!
The bumpy road through the banana plantation was scenic and interesting as our driver knew much about the local banana industry. After the 45 minute ride, we arrived at the boat put-in at La Pavona. There are two competing local boat companies, Clic Clic and Coopetraca, and although Daryl's recommendation was to take Clic Clic, we felt an obvious loyalty to Juan's company! The low-slung open boats provide transport down the river to the village, stopping to drop off local passengers and their bags filled with kitchen staples and string-wrapped packages. The boat took about an hour and deposited us in Tortuguero Village. The last leg of the journey involved a $2 water taxi to Laguna Lodge. It sounds more complicated than it felt, except of course for the avalanche! The difference in price was substantial; a tour or van would have cost $40 per person, this route cost $10/person and took the same amount of time. I also enjoyed a glimpse of the more typical Tico travel life.
We were met at the Laguna Lodge dock by Nelson, the manager, and before we had checked in, a smiling waitress handed us a hot towel and a cold frothy virgin pina colada. They had held lunch for us which was a relief as we were really hungry. The beef casado was delicious and the salad bar was a surprising and welcome sight. All the meals are buffet style with cook-to-order stations. A flat grill provides fried eggs and pancakes for breakfast, steak, fish or chicken grilled for lunch and a pasta bar is open for dinner. The food was certainly plentiful, the dining hours generous and the room is delightful. The lodge is decorated whimsically throughout, with tile mosaics on signs, benches and stairs. The pool is especially beautiful and sparkling clean, with a waterfall and warm, clear water. Most of the rooms are grouped in fours and raised up with dark wood floors, screens,and a fan. Our room, #27, was in the owners section and has tiled floors and a concrete foundation instead. The covered porches have comfortable leather and wood rocking chairs, umbrellas and a large water cooler. The grounds are lushly landscaped and the property lies between the river and the sea. There is a botanical garden, a soccer pitch that my boys enjoyed, a lively bar with TV and WiFi, and easy access to the black sand beach. I was content to walk the grounds armed with a pair of binoculars, a camera and a Tortuguero bird guide and I'm not even a birder! I saw hummingbirds, bats, several herons including a juvenile yellow-crowned heron, big fat toads and a giant lazy iguana sunning in a tree outside our room.
Nelson informed us that it was necessary to book a turtle-watching tour by 3:00 so the guide could apply for that night's permit. He arranged for us to go with Juan (a different Juan!), a personal friend of his in town. Our tour was confirmed for the 8-10 pm slot, which was preferable to the 10-midnight time. We donned our dark clothing, sprayed ourselves with mosquito repellent and met Juan at the dock. We traveled ninja-style down the river, silently, and Juan pulled the boat up to the shore and helped us clamber up the rocks. He escorted us to the waiting station and we were warned not to use cameras, flashlights, cell phones or any other devices that could spook a nesting turtle. We only had to wait about 5 minutes before a licensed turtle spotter showed up and informed our guide that a turtle was laying eggs at station #26. We followed Juan in a single file line until we hit the beach. Juan extinguished his small pen light in favor of a red laser pointer, which apparently disturbs the turtles less.
I never imagined that the green turtle would be so immense- nearly 4 feet long, about 150-200 pounds. We crept quietly up behind her and I crouched down. To my utter amazement, I was less than a foot from the edge of her nest, and we watched as she braced her rear flippers, dipped her tail, and laid egg after egg. There were three or four other larger groups on the beach and we retreated so they could share the view. I was blown away and found myself reacting emotionally to the wonder and privilege of the moment. We doubled back to watch her deposit more of the approximately 100 eggs she would lay and then the other groups departed, leaving us and another small group to linger. We stayed with her for the entire two hours allotted. After she finished laying the eggs, she moved in front of the nest and began to cover the cache, using all four powerful flippers to throw sand on the two-foot deep hole. We were covered in flying sand and giddy with laughter. Eventually, we were able to follow her as she made her way slowly back to the sea, characteristically lumbering over the sand. Suddenly, she was lifted up by the waves and swiftly disappeared. However, the waves had also reached the nest, dooming the eggs she had labored over. My children were unusually affectionate, holding my hand, hugging my waist, arms around each others shoulders, giving respect and savoring the experience we'd been lucky to witness together. It was a poignant, moving spectacle of nature that I will never forget.
Aug 1st, 2009, 09:25 PM
#18
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Join Date: Jun 2003
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Tortuguero / San Jose
An intense thunderstorm woke me just before our 5:15 alarm. I had doubts about the weather, but we met Daryl Loth at 5:45 at our dock. I had a quick cup of coffee from the dining room and we nibbled on some granola bars I'd brought in my luggage. It was still lightly raining after we picked up another family of four and began our tour. We kept our cameras and binoculars hidden under our rain ponchos and whipped them out at the sight of each creature. Daryl has lived in the village for 15 years and is a humorous and engaging guide, knowledgeable about the flora, fauna and politics of the area. He spotted several troupes of howler monkeys and a baby sloth clinging to her mother's thick fur. My son Sam has had the nickname "Tookie" for years (get it, Toucan Sam...) and stated that he was not leaving Costa Rica until he saw one. Daryl managed to track two different kinds of toucans and we followed one along his flight path, much to Sam's delight. I was proud that Jesse was able to identify and spy so many birds after his studies and Daryl was quick to congratulate him and build on what he'd learned. It was very gratifying after I'd obsessed about this part of the trip! After approximately two hours of our three hour tour, it began to pour. The wildlife retreated and Daryl wisely headed back to the Lodge. He refused the full fee, pro-rating the amount, for which I was grateful. We even made it back in time for the full breakfast!
The remainder of the day was rained out for the most part. I followed your wise advice and we brought a DVD player and a deck of cards. We napped, read, watched the Costa Rican soccer team beat Mexico on TV, laughed and watched the rain. I regret not having gone into the village to explore or have a meal, but the long tours, early wake-ups and frequent rain made me a bit lazy. We took a walk on the beach in the late afternoon, outfitted in boots provided by the hotel. We were kind of shocked at the amount of trash on the beach. It seemed completely contrary to the eco-vision that is so crucial to the vitality of the area.
I had decided to fly back to San Jose and not waste another full half-day retracing our route. Laguna Lodge took us to the airstrip and Nelson had thoughtfully prepared box lunches for us. The flight was 35 minutes long and the Loco fare was $44 per person! The small 12-seater was the most beautifully painted plane I've ever seen and it was a spectacular flight over the canals, mountains and valleys of the country. The Tourist rep at Nature Air helped me book a room at Hotel Aranjuez and a taxi took us there for $20.
I requested one room for the four of us and I finally realized that most hotels think of it as a double bed and two singles. Hotel Aranjuez had told us that we would need two rooms, but upon check-in, after I explained that two double beds would be fine, Rudolfo, the day manager, handed over the key for room #23. It was not quite 9 am, and the room wasn't ready, so he gave us four complimentary breakfast tickets. The Hotel Aranjuez has gotten some bad travel press for their unwieldy or unreliable reservation system, which they are trying to update. I absolutely adored this property. The breakfasts were the best we enjoyed on the entire trip. A baker is on staff and the sweet breads were fantastic. There were eight or nine fresh fruits, interesting juices like carambola and blackberry, fresh omelets, baked hearts of palm au gratin, pinto gallo and wonderful coffee, served in their beautiful, tranquil garden. The hotel has grown out of three contiguous homes, linked behind by the gardens and offers private nooks and charming public sitting areas tucked amidst the rooms. Our room was quite large, with two doubles, a couch, flat screen cable TV, a big tiled bath, and a private garden. The price?...$56 for the four of us!!
We rested in our room and watched beach soccer before we went to Soda Isabel at Rudolfo's suggestion. The place was packed with locals and the kids wisely ordered the fried chicken that they saw other patrons eating. I had the casado del dia, which was a tender, flavorful brisket. We agreed it was the best local meal of the trip. We walked toward downtown, referring to our Fodor's guidebook to identify major buildings and ended up at the craft market. We bargained and shopped and had a blast. Further into the heart of downtown and the pedestrian mall, we stopped for mango and chocolate ice cream at Pop's and shopped for Lizano, coffee and guava marmalade at the grocery store. We walked around the Teatro Nacional and bought Suprissa jerseys from a street vendor. I would've loved to go into a museum, but ever since the disastrous Vatican tour...
On our way back to the hotel, laden with bags, we passed a couple of painters on the street. They were noshing on the strangest fruit I've seen; a golf ball-sized, hairy reddish spidery looking thing. I asked once again, Que es? Mamon, the older gentleman answered, and I asked, Es bueno? He picked up a fruit, deftly opened up the thin peel and motioned for me to eat the transluscent white fruit within. Oh my, YUM! It tasted like a tart lychee fruit. He then pressed a huge plastic bag of fruits into my hands, but I laughed, No, gracias and took out just a couple for the kids to try. His assistant replaced them with two handfuls of fruits and when I asked why, he answered in perfect English, Why not? They're his! Turns out they were rambutan, more commonly associated with Asian cuisine. Once again, the superb and genial generosity of the people we've met enriched our trip.
Dinner was good at Restaurant Vesuvius and as the night wore down, the packing began. We recounted our adventures and looked through our purchases and laughed and smiled the night away. People have gone to see Arenal, to later wonder if there really is a volcano in La Fortuna. The night before and after our turtle experience, no one saw any turtles at all. Our vacation really depended on the cooperation of nature and we were never disappointed.
Again I want to thank all of you who respond to our questions on this forum. You help to educate, entertain and inspire us!
An intense thunderstorm woke me just before our 5:15 alarm. I had doubts about the weather, but we met Daryl Loth at 5:45 at our dock. I had a quick cup of coffee from the dining room and we nibbled on some granola bars I'd brought in my luggage. It was still lightly raining after we picked up another family of four and began our tour. We kept our cameras and binoculars hidden under our rain ponchos and whipped them out at the sight of each creature. Daryl has lived in the village for 15 years and is a humorous and engaging guide, knowledgeable about the flora, fauna and politics of the area. He spotted several troupes of howler monkeys and a baby sloth clinging to her mother's thick fur. My son Sam has had the nickname "Tookie" for years (get it, Toucan Sam...) and stated that he was not leaving Costa Rica until he saw one. Daryl managed to track two different kinds of toucans and we followed one along his flight path, much to Sam's delight. I was proud that Jesse was able to identify and spy so many birds after his studies and Daryl was quick to congratulate him and build on what he'd learned. It was very gratifying after I'd obsessed about this part of the trip! After approximately two hours of our three hour tour, it began to pour. The wildlife retreated and Daryl wisely headed back to the Lodge. He refused the full fee, pro-rating the amount, for which I was grateful. We even made it back in time for the full breakfast!
The remainder of the day was rained out for the most part. I followed your wise advice and we brought a DVD player and a deck of cards. We napped, read, watched the Costa Rican soccer team beat Mexico on TV, laughed and watched the rain. I regret not having gone into the village to explore or have a meal, but the long tours, early wake-ups and frequent rain made me a bit lazy. We took a walk on the beach in the late afternoon, outfitted in boots provided by the hotel. We were kind of shocked at the amount of trash on the beach. It seemed completely contrary to the eco-vision that is so crucial to the vitality of the area.
I had decided to fly back to San Jose and not waste another full half-day retracing our route. Laguna Lodge took us to the airstrip and Nelson had thoughtfully prepared box lunches for us. The flight was 35 minutes long and the Loco fare was $44 per person! The small 12-seater was the most beautifully painted plane I've ever seen and it was a spectacular flight over the canals, mountains and valleys of the country. The Tourist rep at Nature Air helped me book a room at Hotel Aranjuez and a taxi took us there for $20.
I requested one room for the four of us and I finally realized that most hotels think of it as a double bed and two singles. Hotel Aranjuez had told us that we would need two rooms, but upon check-in, after I explained that two double beds would be fine, Rudolfo, the day manager, handed over the key for room #23. It was not quite 9 am, and the room wasn't ready, so he gave us four complimentary breakfast tickets. The Hotel Aranjuez has gotten some bad travel press for their unwieldy or unreliable reservation system, which they are trying to update. I absolutely adored this property. The breakfasts were the best we enjoyed on the entire trip. A baker is on staff and the sweet breads were fantastic. There were eight or nine fresh fruits, interesting juices like carambola and blackberry, fresh omelets, baked hearts of palm au gratin, pinto gallo and wonderful coffee, served in their beautiful, tranquil garden. The hotel has grown out of three contiguous homes, linked behind by the gardens and offers private nooks and charming public sitting areas tucked amidst the rooms. Our room was quite large, with two doubles, a couch, flat screen cable TV, a big tiled bath, and a private garden. The price?...$56 for the four of us!!
We rested in our room and watched beach soccer before we went to Soda Isabel at Rudolfo's suggestion. The place was packed with locals and the kids wisely ordered the fried chicken that they saw other patrons eating. I had the casado del dia, which was a tender, flavorful brisket. We agreed it was the best local meal of the trip. We walked toward downtown, referring to our Fodor's guidebook to identify major buildings and ended up at the craft market. We bargained and shopped and had a blast. Further into the heart of downtown and the pedestrian mall, we stopped for mango and chocolate ice cream at Pop's and shopped for Lizano, coffee and guava marmalade at the grocery store. We walked around the Teatro Nacional and bought Suprissa jerseys from a street vendor. I would've loved to go into a museum, but ever since the disastrous Vatican tour...
On our way back to the hotel, laden with bags, we passed a couple of painters on the street. They were noshing on the strangest fruit I've seen; a golf ball-sized, hairy reddish spidery looking thing. I asked once again, Que es? Mamon, the older gentleman answered, and I asked, Es bueno? He picked up a fruit, deftly opened up the thin peel and motioned for me to eat the transluscent white fruit within. Oh my, YUM! It tasted like a tart lychee fruit. He then pressed a huge plastic bag of fruits into my hands, but I laughed, No, gracias and took out just a couple for the kids to try. His assistant replaced them with two handfuls of fruits and when I asked why, he answered in perfect English, Why not? They're his! Turns out they were rambutan, more commonly associated with Asian cuisine. Once again, the superb and genial generosity of the people we've met enriched our trip.
Dinner was good at Restaurant Vesuvius and as the night wore down, the packing began. We recounted our adventures and looked through our purchases and laughed and smiled the night away. People have gone to see Arenal, to later wonder if there really is a volcano in La Fortuna. The night before and after our turtle experience, no one saw any turtles at all. Our vacation really depended on the cooperation of nature and we were never disappointed.
Again I want to thank all of you who respond to our questions on this forum. You help to educate, entertain and inspire us!
