sglass

This trip report will be helpful if you are considering exploring the French Riviera without a car, although hopefully my impressions and experiences will apply even if you are planning to rent one! I am so grateful for all the assistance I received while researching this vacation and hope that I can do the same for others, now.
I used the Rick Steves Provence and the French Riviera guidebook pretty extensively, as well as suggestions here on the Fodor's site. It was in the Rick Steves book that I found the Hotel Darse in Villefranche. Our top floor room had a small balcony, with table and chairs, and a gorgeous view over the harbor for 85 euro/night in July’s high season. You must request early for the top floor! It is about a five- ten minute walk from the center of the town along the beautiful shore-hugging cobbled promenade (depending on whether you are slowly strolling with an ice cream in the moonlight or walking quickly to catch the train!). A caveat: there is not an elevator to that top floor, if you travel with a lot of luggage. Although I used only a carry- on bag for the walk from the train station to the hotel so it wasn’t a problem, after walking all day long on various outings the trek up to the top was sometimes weary. I mention this because of mobility issues. If walking is difficult or not always enjoyable for you or someone with whom you are traveling, you might be happier with the Hotel Welcome (rated # 1 on Trip Advisor (still?), Hotel Darse is # 2) sited smack in the middle of all the cafes and closer to the beaches…
This location was perfect for me, though, as it was about an equal distance to either the bus or the train stations. Depending on the day trip destination, sometimes one was more efficient than the other and on Sunday it pretty much has to be the bus. The bus station is a steep, steep climb up to the more modern “real” part of Villefranche. The train station can be 15 minutes of walking, with another steep climb at the end! You will not be able to avoid an incline anywhere in Villefranche, anyway, except right along the water! There is a very helpful and very well supplied TI next to the bus stop. Villefranche is essentially a suburb of Nice, and you can see Monaco from Villefranche. I emphasize how close they are because I had some doubts about that when making my plans- but it’s true! If you prefer to stay outside a city, Villefranche is such a relaxing place to return at the end of the day.
I also toured Monaco, Vence and St. Paul de Vence, Nice, and Entreveux (taking the little train out of Nice) as day trips. From Villefranche you can also walk to the Rothschild Mansion and gardens and hang out watching yachts at Cap Ferrat- tres chic! I did that, too.
I am not a big “foodie”, so can’t help you much with restaurant suggestions. (Food is where I try to make budget concessions for the trip! Example: I am happiest with a take away melted cheese panini eaten, while still walking, at about 4:30 in the afternoon, for dinner!) I can tell you that Villefranche is just packed with restaurants and cafes, mostly in what I would consider the moderate range, with fixed- price menus ranging from 20 euro and upwards. The atmosphere is casual- some people were very dressed up for outdoor dining, others in shorts…
Depending on the time of year, I should also mention about the cruise ships and their impact. The first morning I stepped onto the balcony to admire the sunrise and sparkling water and- a humungous Disney cruise ship lurking just outside the harbor limits. Is there a bigger word than humungous?! Every day there was a big one, they would pull in at about 7 in the morning and leave in the evening. One day there were even two! Because I was gone most of the days, I didn’t really notice the influx in the twon as the ship tenders dropped off the day trippers, but the passengers were definitely a presence on the trains and buses. Sometimes it got very crowded- for example, the day I took the bus back from Monaco it was simply packed and most of those on board were from the ship.
I would not let that deter you from all the charms of Villefranche and would stay there again absolutely- but, if you have an aversion to cruise ships it’s just information to have for the summer season.
I hope this is helpful, and will post again about the other fabulous destinations I toured from Villefranche!

Byrd

Thank you, sglass, for the report confirming what we have heard about Villefranche-Sur-Mer--that it's delightful.

We are a group of four couples, all old friends and veterans of many trips together. I think this will be the ninth to Europe.

We are flying to Nice and renting two or maybe three cars. The cars, along with the train and bus service, will, we feel, afford eveyone the means to go where they want, when they want.

We are staying at the Hotel Provencal, which I saw recommended here.

We were in Nice about 10 years ago, but at that time didn't visit many riviera locales. We did go to Monaco and will probably return this year.

We may even take appropriate casino clothes--just to see what it's like..

We are in the midst of planning our daytrips, with the aid of helpful posters like you.

From now until October there will be lots of planning sessions, where any number of ideas and suggestions will be brought up (and shot down) by our lively bunch.

Again, thank you for your help as we plan our trip.

Byrd