Venice Trip Report
Nov 5th, 2004, 06:51 PM
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Venice Trip Report
Enjoy and have a wonderful time.
Well we (wife, daughter and I) have been home for a little more than a week and have gotten over our jet lag. This is the first opportunity I have had to begin my trip report. First I want to thank all of you who contributed with their thoughts and comments, they were most helpful.
We left on the 18th in the evening from Detroit, Michigan and arrived in Venice around 4 pm the next day, thru Amsterdam. By the time we got to our hotel in Venice and checked in it was 5:30.
We stayed at a marvelous hotel, Suites Torre Delorlogio. http://www.sanmarcohotels.com/englis...orre/index.asp
It was not cheap, but the location was amazing. The Hotel is located in the very heart of Venice, only 25 metres from the famous St. Mark's Square and within walking distance of all major landmarks. Just 2 alley ways on the left from the clock tower just past the basillica. We had one Junior Suite with full central air, very large - one bedroom, one bathroom with all amenities, sitting room with sofa bed for 290,00 euro. There was a micro wave mini kitchen with fridge, taoster oven and stove. The room included breakfast, but not what you think or what we thought. The fridge was stocked with juices, yogurts, cheeses etc... There were also all types of crackers, croissants and other pastries, but these were all packaged and tasted like it. Additionally, the concierge were not helpful at all.
We were only in Venice for that Saturday afternoon, Sunday, Monday and left in the morning by train to Florence on Tuesday.
The first night we just walked around and took in the city. We walked to the Rialto bridge and found an amazing restorante just across the bridge to the left.
It was called Restorante Terrazza Sommariva. It was right on the grand canal, what a view. Proabaly a tourist spot but they had excellent grilled fish (sea bass and salmon) so fresh like it was just caught. Actually, it was one of our best fish meals in all of Italy. The cost was about 70 euro, first course, 2nd course, wine for 3, service included. Highly recommend it.
The next day it poured and poured. Our only bad weather day during our entire trip. We all had umbrellas but still got wet. We made the best of it and still had a blast. It was a Sunday so we went to the Doges palace, St. Marks Square and St. Marks Basillica. We also took in the Accademia museum. Do not miss the Doges palace, it is worth it, the Accademia was also very good. The basillica was gourgeous from the outside. The inside was nice, particularly the view from the roof. We did not do the bell tower. Of course just sitting and watching the people at the square is amazing. That evening we received a recommendation from our hotel concierge, Trattoria Alla Madonna. Just north from the Restorante Terrazza Sommariva on the same alley. It was crowded, we had to que. However, people who the owner knew or who could speak Italian were given preference to us, even though we were first in line. We felt as second class at this place and the food was not that great. In fact this is the only place in all of Italy were we felt like ?stupid americans?. I would not recommend it at all.
The next day was great. Since we are Jewish we took the long 45-60 minute walk to the Jewish Ghetto via the Rialto and market. We got to see the back waterways and the non-tourist areas. We took a guided tour thru the synagogues and had wonderful pizza and salad at a pizzeria just around the corner from Davids Judiaca. We bought a beautiful murano venetian glass menorah form Davids (the artist is his sister and we met her) The same thing was 500 euros near St. Marks Sq. and it cost only 120 euro there. From there we took the water vaparetto to the Accademia bridge and went to the Guggenheim museum. It was a let down. Nice but very small. The rest of the afternoon we shopped. Remember I was with my wife and daughter. Actually, I enjoyed it very much. While walking tot he ghetto we found a nice restorante Al Vargon. The food was very good. It too was along a canal. They had someone go around playing Italian music. Very romantic.
The next morning we left for Florence. Our hotel arranged a water taxi to the train station. The had someone lead us with us towing our luggage to the water taxi spot and then dumped us. Other hotels we doing the same but staying with their guests until the taxi showed up. All in all the hotel was great, the breakfast was do it your own in your own room and not that great and the concierge was very poor.
Trains, we took the eurostar and had reserved seats. If you had can swing it this is the way to travel. Even though we had to cart and load our own luggage the train was amazing. Reserved seats, air conditioning and diner car. There were also train attendants that went up and down the aisle with a beverage and snack.
Venice was enchanting, beautiful and romantic. It did not smell and it was not dirty contrary to other comments. We did not get to the lido or murano. There is no city on earth like it. St. Marks square with the people and pigeons and entertainment at night was amazing. Venice is sinking. We saw it first hand, when the tide comes in at night, the water comes thru the man hole cover in the sq and the square actually floods.
It is an expensive city but very worth it.
Well we (wife, daughter and I) have been home for a little more than a week and have gotten over our jet lag. This is the first opportunity I have had to begin my trip report. First I want to thank all of you who contributed with their thoughts and comments, they were most helpful.
We left on the 18th in the evening from Detroit, Michigan and arrived in Venice around 4 pm the next day, thru Amsterdam. By the time we got to our hotel in Venice and checked in it was 5:30.
We stayed at a marvelous hotel, Suites Torre Delorlogio. http://www.sanmarcohotels.com/englis...orre/index.asp
It was not cheap, but the location was amazing. The Hotel is located in the very heart of Venice, only 25 metres from the famous St. Mark's Square and within walking distance of all major landmarks. Just 2 alley ways on the left from the clock tower just past the basillica. We had one Junior Suite with full central air, very large - one bedroom, one bathroom with all amenities, sitting room with sofa bed for 290,00 euro. There was a micro wave mini kitchen with fridge, taoster oven and stove. The room included breakfast, but not what you think or what we thought. The fridge was stocked with juices, yogurts, cheeses etc... There were also all types of crackers, croissants and other pastries, but these were all packaged and tasted like it. Additionally, the concierge were not helpful at all.
We were only in Venice for that Saturday afternoon, Sunday, Monday and left in the morning by train to Florence on Tuesday.
The first night we just walked around and took in the city. We walked to the Rialto bridge and found an amazing restorante just across the bridge to the left.
It was called Restorante Terrazza Sommariva. It was right on the grand canal, what a view. Proabaly a tourist spot but they had excellent grilled fish (sea bass and salmon) so fresh like it was just caught. Actually, it was one of our best fish meals in all of Italy. The cost was about 70 euro, first course, 2nd course, wine for 3, service included. Highly recommend it.
The next day it poured and poured. Our only bad weather day during our entire trip. We all had umbrellas but still got wet. We made the best of it and still had a blast. It was a Sunday so we went to the Doges palace, St. Marks Square and St. Marks Basillica. We also took in the Accademia museum. Do not miss the Doges palace, it is worth it, the Accademia was also very good. The basillica was gourgeous from the outside. The inside was nice, particularly the view from the roof. We did not do the bell tower. Of course just sitting and watching the people at the square is amazing. That evening we received a recommendation from our hotel concierge, Trattoria Alla Madonna. Just north from the Restorante Terrazza Sommariva on the same alley. It was crowded, we had to que. However, people who the owner knew or who could speak Italian were given preference to us, even though we were first in line. We felt as second class at this place and the food was not that great. In fact this is the only place in all of Italy were we felt like ?stupid americans?. I would not recommend it at all.
The next day was great. Since we are Jewish we took the long 45-60 minute walk to the Jewish Ghetto via the Rialto and market. We got to see the back waterways and the non-tourist areas. We took a guided tour thru the synagogues and had wonderful pizza and salad at a pizzeria just around the corner from Davids Judiaca. We bought a beautiful murano venetian glass menorah form Davids (the artist is his sister and we met her) The same thing was 500 euros near St. Marks Sq. and it cost only 120 euro there. From there we took the water vaparetto to the Accademia bridge and went to the Guggenheim museum. It was a let down. Nice but very small. The rest of the afternoon we shopped. Remember I was with my wife and daughter. Actually, I enjoyed it very much. While walking tot he ghetto we found a nice restorante Al Vargon. The food was very good. It too was along a canal. They had someone go around playing Italian music. Very romantic.
The next morning we left for Florence. Our hotel arranged a water taxi to the train station. The had someone lead us with us towing our luggage to the water taxi spot and then dumped us. Other hotels we doing the same but staying with their guests until the taxi showed up. All in all the hotel was great, the breakfast was do it your own in your own room and not that great and the concierge was very poor.
Trains, we took the eurostar and had reserved seats. If you had can swing it this is the way to travel. Even though we had to cart and load our own luggage the train was amazing. Reserved seats, air conditioning and diner car. There were also train attendants that went up and down the aisle with a beverage and snack.
Venice was enchanting, beautiful and romantic. It did not smell and it was not dirty contrary to other comments. We did not get to the lido or murano. There is no city on earth like it. St. Marks square with the people and pigeons and entertainment at night was amazing. Venice is sinking. We saw it first hand, when the tide comes in at night, the water comes thru the man hole cover in the sq and the square actually floods.
It is an expensive city but very worth it.
Nov 6th, 2004, 04:38 AM
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rosedr - Thank you for the trip report. It brought back some great memories of our previous trips to Venice. I am with you, the Ghetto is fantastic and the prices are soooooo much better than other areas. That is one of our favorite areas of Venice. We have also eaten at Al Vagon on several occasions but the last trip we were somewhat dissappointed as the service was less friendly and the food was only mediocre. Maybe they were having a bad night as we have had excellent meals there in the past. Did you get a chance to meet Kiko the family dog at Al Vagon? I can tell you from experience he loves french fries and will keep you company throughtout your meal if a french fry occasionally hits the floor. Thanks for the report and the memories.
Nov 6th, 2004, 01:00 PM
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rosedr. thank you for a most interesting report.
Although I am not Jewish I have always loved the Jewish Ghetto. In fact I have taken Italian friends that live in the region of Veneto there and was amazed after a lifetime they had never visited that dear area of Venice. I was amazed.
Also, I personally was most interested,, but also sad regarding your comments on the Trattoria Alla Madonna. I have not been there for several years as always went to other restaurants which was fun and interesting. Back in the 70's and even 80's it was wonderful. But I have been hesitant to even recommend it as over years restaurants like anything can change. And obviously Alla Madonna has, at not for the best. What a shame.
Popularity does seem to ruin things sometimes.
Hope you have time to post the rest of your trip report. I also wanted to mention how clear you are as to where places are. A big help I am sure for first time travelers.
Thanks again and have a good weekend.
Although I am not Jewish I have always loved the Jewish Ghetto. In fact I have taken Italian friends that live in the region of Veneto there and was amazed after a lifetime they had never visited that dear area of Venice. I was amazed.
Also, I personally was most interested,, but also sad regarding your comments on the Trattoria Alla Madonna. I have not been there for several years as always went to other restaurants which was fun and interesting. Back in the 70's and even 80's it was wonderful. But I have been hesitant to even recommend it as over years restaurants like anything can change. And obviously Alla Madonna has, at not for the best. What a shame.
Popularity does seem to ruin things sometimes.
Hope you have time to post the rest of your trip report. I also wanted to mention how clear you are as to where places are. A big help I am sure for first time travelers.
Thanks again and have a good weekend.
Nov 7th, 2004, 05:39 AM
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rosedr,
enjoyed your report. Re: Jewish ghetto and David's store. I loved it, we bought few glass figures of Jews, very cute and humorous. Unfortunately, they got some pieces broken now. Next time I will buy new ones. Does he still have chess from the glass?
I had his card somewhere but cannot find it. Anyway, itr is probably expensive to order my mail.
We also were approached by Lubavitches there and were invited for shabbat dinner but since we only had 2 nights on that visit, we did not want to waste one Friday night and we politely declined. Actually, the kosher restaurant Gam Gam is pretty good for anytime eating (we are not kosher).
enjoyed your report. Re: Jewish ghetto and David's store. I loved it, we bought few glass figures of Jews, very cute and humorous. Unfortunately, they got some pieces broken now. Next time I will buy new ones. Does he still have chess from the glass?
I had his card somewhere but cannot find it. Anyway, itr is probably expensive to order my mail.
We also were approached by Lubavitches there and were invited for shabbat dinner but since we only had 2 nights on that visit, we did not want to waste one Friday night and we politely declined. Actually, the kosher restaurant Gam Gam is pretty good for anytime eating (we are not kosher).
Nov 7th, 2004, 07:11 AM
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rosedr,
Your report brought back wonderful memories of our trip to Venice and great anticipation for our return trip in May. We are thinking of taking the train to Rome and, having never used the trains, have a question regarding luggage (unfortunately we will have quite a bit). Is there a separate luggage compartment or do you keep your bags with you? My one concern is carting the luggage on and off the train, as I assume from your report there are not porters available to assist.
Thanks for sharing.
Your report brought back wonderful memories of our trip to Venice and great anticipation for our return trip in May. We are thinking of taking the train to Rome and, having never used the trains, have a question regarding luggage (unfortunately we will have quite a bit). Is there a separate luggage compartment or do you keep your bags with you? My one concern is carting the luggage on and off the train, as I assume from your report there are not porters available to assist.
Thanks for sharing.
Nov 7th, 2004, 07:41 AM
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Hi ccthomp, train travel in Europe is great. May I politely suggest that you rethink taking "quite a bit" of luggage on the train. You will have to lift it up several steps to get on the train, maneuver it down a narrow aisle to your seat, and (usually) lift it over your head to the rack over your seat. If you impede the progress of your fellow passengers in your endeavor, you'll experience their frustration with you. Sometimes it's possible to store your bags on shelves at the end of your car, but you'll need a cable lock to secure them. An easier alternative is to limit your luggage to one 22" bag and a carry-on. I speak from experience 
Nov 7th, 2004, 08:56 AM
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I second Betsy suggestion. Especially in Venice where your hotel might or might not be close to water taxi even if you take a private taxi, to carry the luggage from boat to hotel might also be hard. Unless you stay in deluxe hotel where all luggage carrying is taken care of you.
Nov 7th, 2004, 11:25 AM
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Artlover asked if the Jewish Ghetto Synagouge tour was something prearranged. No when we got the ghetto we went to the synagouge book shop and they have tours every hour.
They take you through 4 shulls. If you have any other questions you can email me directly.
They take you through 4 shulls. If you have any other questions you can email me directly.
