2010

My husband & I will be in Venice, arriving on September 16th & leaving on the 20th. We are staying at the Locanda Orseolo near St. Mark's Square. This is our first trip to Italy!

In planning our 4 night stay in Venice, I used Rick Steves' itinerary as a framework and tweeked it to suit our interests. We hope to have time between visiting sights just to wander & see things along the way! We have used a myriad of guidebooks & websites to glean information from. Now for the final test: to pass it by your collective "experienced eyes"! Your comments will be greatly appreciated!

Day 1:
Arrive at Marco Polo airport at 13:35

Question: After a long international flight, is the Golden (Oro) Alilaguna worth the 25€ per person cost for a non-stop 35 minute ride to San Marco-Giardinetti stop?

Settle into the Locanda Orseolo.
Do Rick Steves' St. Mark's to San Zaccaria walk. Dinner. Sleep. (Not necessarily in that order. It will depend how we feel upon arrival!)

Day 2:
St. Mark's Basilica & Square
Correr Museum
Shop, wander, have lunch
Doge's Palace
Ascend Campanile bell tower
Gondola ride
Dinner

Day 3:
Walk from St. Mark's Square to Frari Church; stop at Rialto market along the way.
Tour Frari Church
Lunch
Tour Ca' Rezzonico
Explore Dorsoduro, the neighbourhood
around the Accademia.
Tour the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.
Cruise Grand Canal in vaporetto
Dinner

Day 4:
Explore the lagoon by vaporetto, visiting Murano ... and Burano, if time.
Visit the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore.
Dinner

We plan to buy the Museum Pass (18€ per person) and "pay as we go" for the other sights not covered by the pass, as well as a 72 hour vaporetto pass (30€p/p).

Many thanks for taking the time to read through our itinerary & for sharing any insights you might have!

2010

cathies

Hi 2010, Fodors has itineraries that are also very good. Enter Venice into the search frame above your forum, then click on Venice under the heading - Fodor's Destination Guides, Scroll down a little bit and you will see a heading "Great Itineraries" this will give you options for two days, four days etc.

If you don't mind me asking what does 2010 stand for? It sounds like an Sydney Postcode,??

We have four days in Venice in May, so I will be keen to see how other travellers respond to your plan. Cheers, Cathie

annhig

hi 2010,

you are right to make time for just wandering - one of heh joys of Venice. for our trip which starts in less than 3 weeks [we've got a whole week!] I've purchased "Venice for pleasure" which is a book that takes you round all the back streets without actually visiting any of the "sights". we have been before but our kids, aged 20 & 17 haven't so i suppose we'll have to do some of the sights as well!

the itinerary you've planned looks fine, but don't be frightened NOT to stick to it if you feel like doing something else.

as for the allilaguna, I've never used it, and won't be on this trip, as w are arriving at night as with 4 of us, a water taxi will be the same price. however,as you arriving after lunch, unless you are in a real hurry, I'm not sure that the fast one is a great advantage over the standard one, and it's twice the price. Both get you into the same place, which is pretty close to your hotel.

why not decide when you arrive? if it's a nice day, you might just appreciate the longer more relaxed trip!

regards, ann

jdraper

2010 - I think your itinerary is very workable for the amount of time you have. Do make sure you leave a lot of time for wandering and getting lost in Venice as that is the real enchantment of this wonderful city. Get away from the "tourist" areas and discover the back streets.

As for the Alilaguna - We have taken this mode of transport two times, once on our first trip to Venice and the second time when we took our adult children so they could experience it. In my opinion there is no better way to get your first glance of this beautiful city than from the alilaguna as it turns into the Grand Canal. That being said, it is more expensive and, if money is an issue, you can simply take the bus/vaporetto combination for much less money. That is what we would have done on our secod trip if we did not have the children being with us. Instead we spent the extra money for the alilaguna and I turned around to look at the kids as we entered the Grand Canal and all four of them we sound asleep with their heads resting on their luggage. I should have put them on the bus in retrospect. For us it was worth the extra money on our first trip as it is an excellent way to get your first glimpse of Venice but it is the bus for us from here on out. Euro or impact, your choice.
Enjoy beautiful Venice. J

Dayle

Hi 2010,

I think your plan sounds just right. I'm usually a fairly ambitious sightseer and it's what I would plan. You will still have plenty of time for wandering.

Just two notes, Il Frari church is closed a lot for services, lunch, etc. You may need to be flexible in stopping back a second time before you get in. Maybe head straight there in the morning and do the rest of your itinerary after, since the other sights are more easily available.

My other suggestion would be to skip Murano and visit Burano (50 min ride) and Torcello instead since you will already be out there. Unless you are set on seeing glass blowing (most people have seen this before), Murano is much like Venice. Burano is very different and the multi-colored houses a delight. Torcello is right next to Burano. I missed it, but wished in hindsight I had gone there to see the mosaics instead of spending most of the day on Murano.

Buon viaggio!

Ruff

I agree with the suggestion to skip Murano in favor of Burano and Torcello. I also think that part of the wonder and fun of Venice is just wandering around and popping in churches and other places as you feel like it. We usually have a list of places we want to visit, and we revisit it every morning over breakfast and see what we want to do that particular day. I envy your trip -- that first glimpse of Venice -- heart-stopping -- just incredible!

notbob

In answer to your question about linea oro, No it doesn't seem to be worth the extra money. It appears from the alilaguna website that it takes an hour to get from the airport to your stop. The blue and the red line take about an hour 15 to an hour 20. The blue line is usually what we have taken and it stops on Murano and the Lido for about 5 minutes (if that long). Normal fare on Alilaguna is 12 euros each.

I think the 35 minutes would be a water taxi for about 80-100 euros.

Itinerary looks good but as mentioned be flexible. As far as the Rialto market goes get up early (get there by about 7 am) and watch them set up the real fish and vegetable market farther past the bridge. You'll also miss the swarm of people later.

2010

Thanks for all of your replies!

Cathie: Yes, I agree that Fodors is a great source of information! Also, my screen name reflects that I am from Vancouver, B.C. Canada and we are hosting the Winter Olympics in 2010! Thanks for asking!

Ann: What a great suggestion to decide which alilaguna to take upon our arrival! We are travelling overnight for the first time so maybe, just maybe we will get some sleep during our flights. Perhaps we will arrive in Venice feeling not too weary!

J: This is our first trip to Venice so we are going for "high impact"! The question for us is how quickly do we want to reach our destination? Or will I also be one of those travellers who falls asleep during the ride & misses the entry into the Grand Canal? LOL

Dayle & Ruff: The purpose of our trip to Murano is to purchase a piece of art glass. We are not interested in seeing a glass blowing demonstration but are somewhat interested in going to the museum. How would you catagorize the shopping on Murano versus Venice? Any recommendations for shops in either place? BTW, your suggestion of Burano and Torcello sounds very appealing indeed!

2010

CltLwyr

We went with my sister and husband in 2003. They found the Doge's palace tour very long and boring...what do you guys think?

I'll be going again in June and I am wondering if it was just them or should I recommend it to the couple we will be going with this time.

Steve

elaine

IMO, the Doge's Palace has ornate and intricate decoration, masterpieces of art and architecture, a very interesting history, and lots to see and learn about regarding Venice's past.
You don't need to take a guided tour. There's an excellent audio guide that lets you move along at your own pace.

The Basilica opens for the public at 9:45 (?) am on weekdays and the long line starts to form at about 8am., but there's a morning mass at 8 or 8:30. Ask at your hotel. Facing the Basilica, look for an entrance on the left side, go in, and, if asked, say you want to attend the mass. You will not be allowed in wearing shorts, or with sleeveless tops. You won't be allowed to stroll while you are inside. I am not Catholic, but listening to the priest chant the mass while surrounded with the beauties inside the Basilica was a memorable experience. After the mass, which is only a half-hour, you should have time inside the Basilica with almost no other people inside. When it does open to visitors, you can be among the first in line to buy a ticket inside to see the Pala d'Oro (gold and jeweled altar piece) and Treasury if you decide to see them. You may also go up to the Loggia dei Cavalli (the outdoor terrace where the horses overlook the Piazza. These horses are copies; the originals from Constantinople are upstairs also, but inside. You should be able to leave the Basilica around 10 am, perfect time imo to start the tour of the Doge's Palace. If you don't want to go to the mass, here's a
website for reserving a very short visit to the Basilica www.alata.it

Torcello http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
Torcello/ is considered dull by some because it is sparsely populated and deserted-looking. It is where the settlement of the Venetian lagoon first began. At one time 20,000 people lived there, today it has fewer than 100 inhabitants. However Torcello has a church and a cathedral, part of which dates from the 7th century, with exceptionally beautiful mosaics and for me, Torcello is an unforgettable experience. It is always one of the best things I do in Venice.
You can’t get lost on Torcello, there is really only one path, Fondamenta dei Borgognoni, that leads from the boat landing, along an overgrown and murky canal. It takes about 15 minutes to walk to the Cathedral. You will cross a stone bridge, passing the very nice Locanda Cipriani http://www.locandacipriani.com . Gorgeous terrace garden to eat on, or dine inside. Reserve in advance, and warning: it's pricey. www.locandacipriani.com Ernest Hemingway wrote part of his Across the River and into the Trees there. I can’t think of a better way of spending a couple of hours on a sunny afternoon than sitting in one of the table here, on the terrace, overlooking the garden, and having a leisurely lunch.
Past that restaurant, you will quickly come to first, the church of Santa Fosca, and then the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta.
In the cathedral in front of the altar is a beautifully carved marble pulpit incorporating part of the original from the 7th century. You will note the Byzantine style of the architecture and the mosaics. The most striking for me was the Weeping Madonna set on the gilded background of the half-dome. One book called this image "A sad young woman holding god". On the opposite wall is the mosaic of the Last Judgement.
The next-door church of Santa Fosca, in the form of a Greek cross, was started around the 11th century. It has a spartan interior, beautiful marble columns and a wooden roof. On the grass in front of the churches is an ancient stone seat known as "Attila's Throne", though most probably Attila had nothing to do with it.

Another place to eat: Trono di Attila (Attila’s Throne).. From www.thingstodo-venice.com: “open Tuesday to Sunday. Unless you plan to splurge at the famous Locanda Cipriani, try this place, also between the ferry stop and the cathedral. You will want to dine in the charming garden with pergola. Generally it opens for lunch only, unless you book ahead for dinner. tel 041 73 00 94"

Torcello can be reached by boat from the Fondamenta Nuova, a 15-20-minute walk from Piazza San Marco, on the north side of Venice proper near the Church of the Gesuiti. You can also take a vaporetto from San Zaccaria to Fondamenta N., and change boats. At Burano, you change for the T line, a five-minute ride to Torcello. Check current vaporetto routing and schedules at www.actv.it

enjoy your trip

Dayle

2010,

On my two trips to Venice, I've seen too many shops selling gorgeous glass art to count in Venice. Plenty to choose from there.

I think you might have a larger selection on Murano, but I hope you are prepared for the prices $$$$$$. I only window shopped because those items are beyond my budget. I did buy some beautiful glass Christmas ornaments for myself and family that I could carry back myself.

Dayle

PS - our 2002 Olympics in SLC were a fabulous sporting event and big party! Don't miss it - participate in as much as you possibly can. It's a great experience and even better when it's your home town hosting.

fabrizio

2010, Murano was nice, but $$$$$$. We purchased several small murano pieces in venice that we were able to take home in our carry-on luggage.Much cheaper. Although the glass-blowing demonstration was awesome, the museum was very pricey. I would purchase murano glass items in venice (St, Marks Square has several nice shops). Good luck and have fun.

Thomarob

I found Rick Steves' book (along with Fodors) to both be very helpful. Don't skip the LaSalute church, not far from the Peggy Guggenheim Collection - those two were my favorites, along with San Georgio Maggiore (well worth the boat ride). The Rick Steves book mentions a baggage check just around the corner from San Marco which enables you to skip the line - be sure to use it (just show you're baggage check and they let you right in). It's hard to explain where it is, but the book has a good map.

butnotrmpt

bookmarking

annhig

Hi again, 2010,

I agree about looking for glass in venice itself, not Murano. there are some nice reasonable shops along the strada nuova as well as near St. Mark's square which seemed to me to have more original pieces than i saw later on Murano itself.

regards, ann

annabelle2

2010
You will love Venice! I have been three times, so not an expert like some of the fodorites are, but I loved each of my visits and can't wait for more.

I agree that you can fit all this in, but I have found that Venice is one of the best places to just wander and savor. The water sounds, the echoing footsteps late at night on a tiny side alley, the decaying builidings in beautiful soft colors, the unique Venetian architecture with those whimsically shaped chimneys, the Venetians themselves going about their lives amidst tourists from all over the world - it is a special place.

I also like to leave extra time to browse in the shops & galleries. I am not usually a big shopper, but Venice shops are quite inviting

Besides the art-glass you mention, there is lots of nice glass jewelry, masks, great selections of paintings & prints (and small enough ones to pop in your suitcase), art supplies, etc.

Another fun thing to do is go to one of the many concerts that take place - lots of Vivaldi, of course, and often in churches or other interesting locations.

I finally went to the Guggenheim on my last trip and enjoyed it, and that corner of Dorsoduro, very much. I read John Berendt's "City of Falling Angels" when I got back, which has lots of references to the museum as well as other events, people and places related to Venice.

If you like mysteries, the Donna Leon books (set in Venice) are quite good; I mostly read them for the Italian atmosphere!

2010

To those who replied to the question of shopping for Murano glass, thank you! I shall take the time to look in Venice shops for that special piece ... plus glass Christmas tree ornaments!

To those who replied with descriptions of the sights & sounds of Venice & Torcello, thank you! Oh, I can't wait to experience Venice --- a place like no other! And it is the start of our 3 week holiday in Italy!

Just one more question: I will make a reservation to enter St Mark's Basilica. Are there other sights on my list for which I should make a reservation?

2010

abbydog

Gee, I may be a total nerd but I loved the Doge's Palace -- mainly because I took the "secret itineraries" tour where you see all sorts of state rooms, courtrooms, private offices, and even Casanova's cell. The stories were great and the views through the upper story windows were very cool. I thought it was a terrific way to get immersed in the history and lore of Venice.

I had an early tour, around 9:30, which was perfect because it wasn't yet crowded or hot.

bachslunch

Looks like a very good itinerary.

One place you might perhaps want to consider adding: close by the Frari Church is the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, which has some excellent Tintoretto works on its walls and is small enough to fit into your plans easily.

And I'll echo everybody else in suggesting that you wander a lot. Venice is a great place to do so.

Enjoy!