UMBRIA: from Perugia to Ascoli Piceno, Truffles to Oliva all Ascolana
Nov 11th, 2012, 10:39 PM
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UMBRIA: from Perugia to Ascoli Piceno, Truffles to Oliva all Ascolana
A continuation of my trip report on the Veneto:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-di-seppie.cfm
Next stop PERUGIA
I had been anticipating exploring the lively town of Perugia ever since seeing it on Bella Italia, I believe a BBC special series.
That show was filmed from a helicopter, giving a unique view of Perugia. It intrigued me, with its medieval dark past in contrast with the modern sight of it all light and blue sky, white buildings with red roofs, surrounded by thick green pine trees, and all those staircases.
How bad can a place be that is known for its language school? Of course, there is also the intrigue of the Amanda Knox affair hanging in the air.
We have scheduled the afternoon and evening to explore the town. GPS guides us to the parcheggio close to our hotel, Sangallo Palace. There is a hot wind blowing, making it difficult to expend too much energy. Happily, there are the escalators that take visitors up to the top of the town.
Somewhere half way up is the Rocca Paolina, the fortress that covered and preserved parts of the medieval city hundreds of years ago, which is now observable, like a sort of Middle Ages Pompeii. Also preserved is the Etruscan Gate of Mars. Fascinating stuff, this underground world.
At the top of the escalators is Piazza Italia, and a beautiful view over the valley. Down the wide Corso Vanucci to the other end is Piazza IV Novembre, with its Fontana Maggiore. All the buildings are white, but weathered, stone.
This we explore, the obvious, but with a full day planned tomorrow, there is no time for anymore of this town suspended in mid-air.
Hungry now, we find La Taverna, for supper, down the stairs of an alleyway, of which Perugia has many.
Here we have another stupendous meal for a very good price. Our antipasti starter includes bruschetta of both white and dark truffles, chicken liver, and the most flavourful olive oil, along with a salad made with radicchio, and also sausage and salumi. About this time, we are wishing we hadn't ordered anything else, but we have. ....
We share a pasta dish, then a secondi, perhaps it was veal escalope, and comes with the most incredible roasted potatoes. Total €64. Including wine.
Ristorante La Taverna Via Delle Streghe 8 Perugia
Okay tomorrow, I vow not to eat a thing! I can tell already, Umbria will be about the food!
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-di-seppie.cfm
Next stop PERUGIA
I had been anticipating exploring the lively town of Perugia ever since seeing it on Bella Italia, I believe a BBC special series.
That show was filmed from a helicopter, giving a unique view of Perugia. It intrigued me, with its medieval dark past in contrast with the modern sight of it all light and blue sky, white buildings with red roofs, surrounded by thick green pine trees, and all those staircases.
How bad can a place be that is known for its language school? Of course, there is also the intrigue of the Amanda Knox affair hanging in the air.
We have scheduled the afternoon and evening to explore the town. GPS guides us to the parcheggio close to our hotel, Sangallo Palace. There is a hot wind blowing, making it difficult to expend too much energy. Happily, there are the escalators that take visitors up to the top of the town.
Somewhere half way up is the Rocca Paolina, the fortress that covered and preserved parts of the medieval city hundreds of years ago, which is now observable, like a sort of Middle Ages Pompeii. Also preserved is the Etruscan Gate of Mars. Fascinating stuff, this underground world.
At the top of the escalators is Piazza Italia, and a beautiful view over the valley. Down the wide Corso Vanucci to the other end is Piazza IV Novembre, with its Fontana Maggiore. All the buildings are white, but weathered, stone.
This we explore, the obvious, but with a full day planned tomorrow, there is no time for anymore of this town suspended in mid-air.
Hungry now, we find La Taverna, for supper, down the stairs of an alleyway, of which Perugia has many.
Here we have another stupendous meal for a very good price. Our antipasti starter includes bruschetta of both white and dark truffles, chicken liver, and the most flavourful olive oil, along with a salad made with radicchio, and also sausage and salumi. About this time, we are wishing we hadn't ordered anything else, but we have. ....
We share a pasta dish, then a secondi, perhaps it was veal escalope, and comes with the most incredible roasted potatoes. Total €64. Including wine.
Ristorante La Taverna Via Delle Streghe 8 Perugia
Okay tomorrow, I vow not to eat a thing! I can tell already, Umbria will be about the food!
Nov 12th, 2012, 04:30 AM
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Lovely description. The Rocca Paolina is one of the things I missed - incredibly. Because we took a taxi to and from the train station and never left to take a day trip. Over the three nights we spent in Perugia we walked near the entrance several times - but didn't realize it. Oh this pains me - will have to go back to Perugia to see the underground area.
Nov 12th, 2012, 09:28 AM
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Thanks, davispeets. We would have liked to spend more time, like you did, just exploring Perugia.
Our hotel, Sangallo Palace, is located at the spot where the buses stop, about half way up the escalators, if you take them from the very bottom. It was perfect for exploring the city, only 5 minutes to the top, and we got to pass the Rocca Paoline each time.
I can't say the same for Sangallo's air conditioning, though! Sometimes I think they give you the older, not so nice rooms when you book through Expedia.
Our hotel, Sangallo Palace, is located at the spot where the buses stop, about half way up the escalators, if you take them from the very bottom. It was perfect for exploring the city, only 5 minutes to the top, and we got to pass the Rocca Paoline each time.
I can't say the same for Sangallo's air conditioning, though! Sometimes I think they give you the older, not so nice rooms when you book through Expedia.
Nov 12th, 2012, 10:28 AM
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Some photos of Perugia, with some shots of the view and of Rocca Paolina:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gu7djkqilnry6qp/B_OLJrGFPA
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gu7djkqilnry6qp/B_OLJrGFPA
Nov 12th, 2012, 01:43 PM
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Macdogmom The food in Puglia is good... But so is the food in Umbria...mmmm truffles
I guess it depends somewhat on when you are going, as to what's in season.
TDudette, Perugia is pretty unique, isn't it?
I guess it depends somewhat on when you are going, as to what's in season.
TDudette, Perugia is pretty unique, isn't it?
Nov 12th, 2012, 05:20 PM
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Luckily for us, remembering our vow from the night before, the breakfast at Sangallo Palace is 'a la tour group', so we have a (horrible) cup of coffee and keep going.
My planned tour for the day was to start at the celebrated Galleria Nazionale di Umbria in Perugia, then continue with Spello, and circle across the valley to Bevagna, Bettona, and Torgiano.
The museum, housed in the beautiful Palazzo Dei Priori, is indeed a fine record of Umbrian art, with works by Perugino, Piero de la Francesca, Fra Angelico, and others. It's a shame about the audio guides that will not work, no matter what you try.
Along with the museum in Sansepolcro, we are about in "Madonna con Bambino" overload mode.
My husband's eyes are glazing over, so I promise, no more Madonnas and bambinos.
We retrieve our car, and are off for the countryside, but are a bit dismayed by the valley seeming to be very industrial and busy. Maybe that was because we were on the main highway. Then Assisi appeared, then Spello, and, happily, we are distracted.
I remember Spello for its picturesque views of Assisi and pretty flower pots, the steep lanes, and the lovely lunch we had in a small square partway up the hill. We passed a lot of places that looked like holiday rentals, probably a very nice place to stay.
Our GPS was determined we were not going to go on the back roads, but we finally get across the valley and up into the hills to Bettona.
Here in Umbria, as in all Italy, but particularly so in the smaller towns, the afternoons are reserved for siesta time.
There is a total of 3 people that we see in Bettona, men standing outside a bar engaged in lively conversation. They watch us as we walk to the main piazza, which is completely empty, and back to our car. Hmmm....not too much action here, although there's a very nice view.
Determined to find a memory of the day to bring back, we continue on to Torgiano, where the Museum of Olives is open. We learn a lot about that queen of trees, then continue on to the Museum of Wine, but we get hung up in the Cantina next door, tasting wines, cheeses, and aged balsamic vinegar. Never did get to that museum.
Originally, I thought we might hit Torgiano in time to have supper at Le Tre Vaselle restaurant, but the town is just now coming back to life, and we are getting antsy to get back to Perugia for sunset.
Again, our gps guides us flawlessly towards our hotel, and the parcheggio. Feeling flushed with success, at the last moment, we make the right hand turn, but the wrong one, unfortunately.
After going into and out of the ZTL several times, and having to back up a narrow steep lane, we get out of town...... Waaay out of town.
There's not too much sunset to be seen from the east side of the mountain which is Perugia. But hey, it was a nice drive, aside from the harrowing experiences!
We have supper in a little outdoor place in a corner of Piazza IV Novembre. In this quiet corner, it's a beautiful piazza with grand white marble buildings that make a wonderful backdrop for the Fontana Maggiore.
On one side is the Palazzo dei Priori, and on the other side, the steps of the Duomo provide a lurking place for beer drinking students, all of whom seem to be dressed in dark colors, and who leave their litter along the streets and in the corners.
It almost feels like being in the middle of a black and white photo, only with peach coloured tablecloths.
We share a simple supper. I only remember the lamb chops, which were surprisingly good from a restaurant on the main piazza that we had thought might be a tourist trap, but wasn't. Da Cesarino di Milletti Palmiero, piazza IV Novembre 4/5 Perugia
After a stroll around the town, attempting a few long staircases, but finding it too dark, I think I'm ready to face our sauna of a hotel room for the night.
(Is it just me, or is it hot in here?)
My planned tour for the day was to start at the celebrated Galleria Nazionale di Umbria in Perugia, then continue with Spello, and circle across the valley to Bevagna, Bettona, and Torgiano.
The museum, housed in the beautiful Palazzo Dei Priori, is indeed a fine record of Umbrian art, with works by Perugino, Piero de la Francesca, Fra Angelico, and others. It's a shame about the audio guides that will not work, no matter what you try.
Along with the museum in Sansepolcro, we are about in "Madonna con Bambino" overload mode.
My husband's eyes are glazing over, so I promise, no more Madonnas and bambinos.
We retrieve our car, and are off for the countryside, but are a bit dismayed by the valley seeming to be very industrial and busy. Maybe that was because we were on the main highway. Then Assisi appeared, then Spello, and, happily, we are distracted.
I remember Spello for its picturesque views of Assisi and pretty flower pots, the steep lanes, and the lovely lunch we had in a small square partway up the hill. We passed a lot of places that looked like holiday rentals, probably a very nice place to stay.
Our GPS was determined we were not going to go on the back roads, but we finally get across the valley and up into the hills to Bettona.
Here in Umbria, as in all Italy, but particularly so in the smaller towns, the afternoons are reserved for siesta time.
There is a total of 3 people that we see in Bettona, men standing outside a bar engaged in lively conversation. They watch us as we walk to the main piazza, which is completely empty, and back to our car. Hmmm....not too much action here, although there's a very nice view.
Determined to find a memory of the day to bring back, we continue on to Torgiano, where the Museum of Olives is open. We learn a lot about that queen of trees, then continue on to the Museum of Wine, but we get hung up in the Cantina next door, tasting wines, cheeses, and aged balsamic vinegar. Never did get to that museum.
Originally, I thought we might hit Torgiano in time to have supper at Le Tre Vaselle restaurant, but the town is just now coming back to life, and we are getting antsy to get back to Perugia for sunset.
Again, our gps guides us flawlessly towards our hotel, and the parcheggio. Feeling flushed with success, at the last moment, we make the right hand turn, but the wrong one, unfortunately.
After going into and out of the ZTL several times, and having to back up a narrow steep lane, we get out of town...... Waaay out of town.
There's not too much sunset to be seen from the east side of the mountain which is Perugia. But hey, it was a nice drive, aside from the harrowing experiences!
We have supper in a little outdoor place in a corner of Piazza IV Novembre. In this quiet corner, it's a beautiful piazza with grand white marble buildings that make a wonderful backdrop for the Fontana Maggiore.
On one side is the Palazzo dei Priori, and on the other side, the steps of the Duomo provide a lurking place for beer drinking students, all of whom seem to be dressed in dark colors, and who leave their litter along the streets and in the corners.
It almost feels like being in the middle of a black and white photo, only with peach coloured tablecloths.
We share a simple supper. I only remember the lamb chops, which were surprisingly good from a restaurant on the main piazza that we had thought might be a tourist trap, but wasn't. Da Cesarino di Milletti Palmiero, piazza IV Novembre 4/5 Perugia
After a stroll around the town, attempting a few long staircases, but finding it too dark, I think I'm ready to face our sauna of a hotel room for the night.
(Is it just me, or is it hot in here?)
Nov 13th, 2012, 05:18 AM
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One of our favourite things in Europe is to buy goodies at the farmer's market, then at lunch, find a nice spot for a tailgate party. We found only a limited market in Perugia, but there was a Coop store, where we got cheese, wine, and oil, but no bread. Oh well, we're bound to see a bakery somewhere along our way.
We are excited to see the frescoes in Assisi today. It's an unexceptional drive along the main highway, then a short drive up to the parking lot, then a long walk past hordes of trinket hawking shops to arrive at the Basilica.
On our way, we peak into the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, with its blatant baroque decoration, and sky blue frescoes on the ceiling. This church was built over a First Century BC Roman temple, which was believed to be dedicated to Minerva, and still has 6 original columns in the front.
If you look carefully, you will see it featured as a temple in the fresco depicting the Legend of St Francis in the Basilica.
The Basilica di San Francesco is a very impressive church, dedicated to such a humble man.
It is not allowed to take pictures, not even in the courtyard. Husband sneaks a few anyway. We make our way downstairs to see the star of the ball.
Although it is beautiful, I don't remember feeling blown away, like I did in Ravenna and Padova. Maybe it's because there are so many more people here.
Perhaps it's the hunger pains. Tim is getting the "Feed me now or I fear I'll turn into the Hulk" look. Soon the shops will be closing and we still have not found bread. Desperate, Tim goes into a farmacia to ask the non-English speaking woman for a place to buy bread.
Pa--ne he says, and she thinks he's trying to describe some disease or rash he has; after all, this is a drug store.
Finally, the linguistics get sorted, and she points him up the street to a small grocery.
Tim covers the mile or two back to the car in record time. After scrounging enough cash to pay for the parking, he then has to wait for his gps challenged wife to figure out where we are going to find "the spot" for a picnic and how we are going to arrive there.
Suddenly he remembers we only have 10 minutes to get out of the parking lot. We race to the gate, but are a minute too late. Oo...ooh boy. Back up, drive back to the booth, explain to the non-English speakers what happened, scrounge up another €1,50, and take off to who knows where.
There is evidently 'nowhere to stop', so we keep driving, and finally find ourselves by coincidence in the parking lot where we were the day before, in Spello.
I say, "Stop, just stop, and eat something!" Tim has low blood sugar. He parks next to the garbage bins, opens the tailgate, pulls out the pane and olive oil and cheese and rips into it, his shaky hands spilling the olive oil liberally on his bread, and the ground.
Gradually, the Hulk turns back into my husband.
After we finally get on the road again, I turn to Tim and say, "You wanna know the truth? I hate tailgate parties!"
And we thus decide the quest for the perfect tailgate lunch is over! Rejoice!
We are excited to see the frescoes in Assisi today. It's an unexceptional drive along the main highway, then a short drive up to the parking lot, then a long walk past hordes of trinket hawking shops to arrive at the Basilica.
On our way, we peak into the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, with its blatant baroque decoration, and sky blue frescoes on the ceiling. This church was built over a First Century BC Roman temple, which was believed to be dedicated to Minerva, and still has 6 original columns in the front.
If you look carefully, you will see it featured as a temple in the fresco depicting the Legend of St Francis in the Basilica.
The Basilica di San Francesco is a very impressive church, dedicated to such a humble man.
It is not allowed to take pictures, not even in the courtyard. Husband sneaks a few anyway. We make our way downstairs to see the star of the ball.
Although it is beautiful, I don't remember feeling blown away, like I did in Ravenna and Padova. Maybe it's because there are so many more people here.
Perhaps it's the hunger pains. Tim is getting the "Feed me now or I fear I'll turn into the Hulk" look. Soon the shops will be closing and we still have not found bread. Desperate, Tim goes into a farmacia to ask the non-English speaking woman for a place to buy bread.
Pa--ne he says, and she thinks he's trying to describe some disease or rash he has; after all, this is a drug store.
Finally, the linguistics get sorted, and she points him up the street to a small grocery.
Tim covers the mile or two back to the car in record time. After scrounging enough cash to pay for the parking, he then has to wait for his gps challenged wife to figure out where we are going to find "the spot" for a picnic and how we are going to arrive there.
Suddenly he remembers we only have 10 minutes to get out of the parking lot. We race to the gate, but are a minute too late. Oo...ooh boy. Back up, drive back to the booth, explain to the non-English speakers what happened, scrounge up another €1,50, and take off to who knows where.
There is evidently 'nowhere to stop', so we keep driving, and finally find ourselves by coincidence in the parking lot where we were the day before, in Spello.
I say, "Stop, just stop, and eat something!" Tim has low blood sugar. He parks next to the garbage bins, opens the tailgate, pulls out the pane and olive oil and cheese and rips into it, his shaky hands spilling the olive oil liberally on his bread, and the ground.
Gradually, the Hulk turns back into my husband.
After we finally get on the road again, I turn to Tim and say, "You wanna know the truth? I hate tailgate parties!"
And we thus decide the quest for the perfect tailgate lunch is over! Rejoice!
Nov 13th, 2012, 10:01 AM
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Photos of Assisi
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g7kmfcsmnau45er/bp837TcHUM
Pics of Spello and countryside:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9gcmwsoteo4a0yl/KMvDd-rRG9
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g7kmfcsmnau45er/bp837TcHUM
Pics of Spello and countryside:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9gcmwsoteo4a0yl/KMvDd-rRG9
Nov 13th, 2012, 09:02 PM
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On to SPOLETO
Southward we go, to spend a few days in Spoleto. After our morning in Assisi and our lunchtime adventure, we are eager to get to Spoleto and get settled in to our hotel. The pictures on the website look very nice.
I have read about the teeny parking lot, which I haven't mentioned to Tim, yet.
Just follow the GPS and feign ignorance, that's my theory. She's pretty helpful today, and gets us right to the narrow, narrow lane where we have to turn into a teeny weeny parking lot. I run in to ask the hotelier if there is somewhere else to park, but by the time I come out, Tim has done an Austin Powers turn, and we are all set.
Our hotel is beautiful, with a garden overlooking the valley below. Our room is absolutely spotless and well appointed, and the breakfast next morning is lovely as well.
Palazzo Leti also has a charming terrace in the garden which we are able to enjoy, and that mitigates the slight disappointment of our room being 2 levels down with no view.
Over a glass of wine, we visit with another couple, who happen to be from BC as well, but the central part.
We dine together at a small restaurant just down the hill. After dinner, Tim and I opt for a walk around town, as we have just arrived, and as yet, have seen nothing.
The Rocca, above the town, looks very interesting all lit up, as does the Duomo, and we look forward to the next day.
On our second lap around the town, we are walking down an incline when suddenly a car comes around the corner. I look up and miss the step, and take a tumble.
Tim helps me up, but I have scraped and banged my knee pretty hard.
The young woman driving the car jumps out, runs over to us, takes me by one arm and Tim takes the other, and I hobble down the street to the restaurant where we had had supper. The whole family, I think, rushes over to help me, and within seconds has me sitting down, a glass of water, some antiseptic spray, and a bag of ice at the ready.
Signora makes me sit and keep the ice on, while she chats away in Italian, which we understand (somewhat) with the help of gestures and sign language.
After a few minutes, she brings out a plate of freshly baked cookies for me.
It's almost worth the fall, just to experience that kindness!
Il Mio Vinaio, Via Arco di Druso 31 Spoleto
Well, the cookies make me feel MUCH better....
Hopefully the knee will be okay tomorrow....
Southward we go, to spend a few days in Spoleto. After our morning in Assisi and our lunchtime adventure, we are eager to get to Spoleto and get settled in to our hotel. The pictures on the website look very nice.
I have read about the teeny parking lot, which I haven't mentioned to Tim, yet.
Just follow the GPS and feign ignorance, that's my theory. She's pretty helpful today, and gets us right to the narrow, narrow lane where we have to turn into a teeny weeny parking lot. I run in to ask the hotelier if there is somewhere else to park, but by the time I come out, Tim has done an Austin Powers turn, and we are all set.
Our hotel is beautiful, with a garden overlooking the valley below. Our room is absolutely spotless and well appointed, and the breakfast next morning is lovely as well.
Palazzo Leti also has a charming terrace in the garden which we are able to enjoy, and that mitigates the slight disappointment of our room being 2 levels down with no view.
Over a glass of wine, we visit with another couple, who happen to be from BC as well, but the central part.
We dine together at a small restaurant just down the hill. After dinner, Tim and I opt for a walk around town, as we have just arrived, and as yet, have seen nothing.
The Rocca, above the town, looks very interesting all lit up, as does the Duomo, and we look forward to the next day.
On our second lap around the town, we are walking down an incline when suddenly a car comes around the corner. I look up and miss the step, and take a tumble.
Tim helps me up, but I have scraped and banged my knee pretty hard.
The young woman driving the car jumps out, runs over to us, takes me by one arm and Tim takes the other, and I hobble down the street to the restaurant where we had had supper. The whole family, I think, rushes over to help me, and within seconds has me sitting down, a glass of water, some antiseptic spray, and a bag of ice at the ready.
Signora makes me sit and keep the ice on, while she chats away in Italian, which we understand (somewhat) with the help of gestures and sign language.
After a few minutes, she brings out a plate of freshly baked cookies for me.
It's almost worth the fall, just to experience that kindness!
Il Mio Vinaio, Via Arco di Druso 31 Spoleto
Well, the cookies make me feel MUCH better....
Hopefully the knee will be okay tomorrow....
Nov 14th, 2012, 09:16 AM
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Oh no, hope it wasn't serious. I had to laugh about the Madonnas in Perugia. In the gallery was a Madonna of the orchestra--did you see it? I saw a sign for Madonna in the bath from the car but can't remember where that was.
Nov 15th, 2012, 08:40 AM
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Next day, I do not have a huge bruise, thanks to the ice pack, and we are able to continue our plans to visit the Duomo, the Roman aqueduct, as well as the Rocca.
The duomo has an unbeatable setting. At the bottom of a epic staircase, and with the Piazza del Duomo introducing it to the world, it has no less than eight rose windows decorating the Romanesque facade.
The golden mosaic on the front is signed and dated 1207.
Inside is the colourful and detailed fresco cycle by Filippo Lippi, Life of the Virgin, and Pinturicchio's Madonna and Child.
This church has a very interesting floor, mosaics in the Cosmatesque style.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmatesque
Beautiful, indeed, but I really prefer to ponder the gorgeous exterior from the cafe on the Piazza, and imagine what it's like to be here when it is used for a stage during the Spoleto Festival of arts.
From the Rocca one can see views on all sides. Spoleto has a beautiful location. We make our way around the interior of the Rocca Albornoziana on a self guided tour of this former papal fortress, where Lucrezia Borgia once lived.
One can imagine life in medieval Spoleto from the interesting frescoes in the Rocca. One portrays what looks to be the Fontana Maggiore in Perugia full of bathing maidens. I'm not too sure who is the watcher.
We enjoy our day immensely, and would recommend anyone to use Spoleto as a base for Umbria. If we return to Umbria, it will be to spend more time in Perugia and the area of the upper Tiber, Arrezzo and Gubbio, also more of Spoleto, Trevi, and Marmore Falls, places we missed seeing.
Again, another week here would have been nice.
The mid day break is a good time to do laundry. Our hotel gives us a map and instructions on how to get to the laundromat downtown. A couple of tall young men are there, with their duffle bags unpacked, laundry in, smoking cigarettes on the bench outside.
We can't quite figure out where to find the soap and how to put it in, and hand gestures are not doing the trick.
With the help of the phrase book which I downloaded before we left, our new friends give us directions, and the task begins.
Laundry in, we wonder across the street to the Coop store, and buy bottled water for 18 cents each, deposit in the back of the car, and wonder back to the lavanderia.
Soon, three of the young men's friends arrive, and the little laundromat is getting very crowded. I decipher from their duffle bags that they are army lads.
Funny how our laundry becomes a community affair, with reminders when the load is done, how much money to put in the dryer, a few other hints on this and that.
Backpacks loaded, we're done for another week or so.
During the day we had spotted a restaurant just down and around the corner where the menu looks very impressive. So we head down in that direction to make a reservation, only to find they are not open because of a private party.
We are disappointed, but even more so when our friends from the night before come round just in time to inform us it's the best restaurant in Spoleto. And tomorrow we are leaving. Well, next time...
Our hotel recommends Ristorante del Mercato, on the piazza of the same name, and we order pasta. Mine was made with beets, and is very good. Tim enjoys the whole fish in cartoccio. My pork, however, is medium rare and not at all tender, although it looked promising. We have a really good bottle of the local sagrantino wine.
Its time to repack our bags with our clean laundry, and head off on another adventure, through the Sibillini mountains....
The duomo has an unbeatable setting. At the bottom of a epic staircase, and with the Piazza del Duomo introducing it to the world, it has no less than eight rose windows decorating the Romanesque facade.
The golden mosaic on the front is signed and dated 1207.
Inside is the colourful and detailed fresco cycle by Filippo Lippi, Life of the Virgin, and Pinturicchio's Madonna and Child.
This church has a very interesting floor, mosaics in the Cosmatesque style.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmatesque
Beautiful, indeed, but I really prefer to ponder the gorgeous exterior from the cafe on the Piazza, and imagine what it's like to be here when it is used for a stage during the Spoleto Festival of arts.
From the Rocca one can see views on all sides. Spoleto has a beautiful location. We make our way around the interior of the Rocca Albornoziana on a self guided tour of this former papal fortress, where Lucrezia Borgia once lived.
One can imagine life in medieval Spoleto from the interesting frescoes in the Rocca. One portrays what looks to be the Fontana Maggiore in Perugia full of bathing maidens. I'm not too sure who is the watcher.
We enjoy our day immensely, and would recommend anyone to use Spoleto as a base for Umbria. If we return to Umbria, it will be to spend more time in Perugia and the area of the upper Tiber, Arrezzo and Gubbio, also more of Spoleto, Trevi, and Marmore Falls, places we missed seeing.
Again, another week here would have been nice.
The mid day break is a good time to do laundry. Our hotel gives us a map and instructions on how to get to the laundromat downtown. A couple of tall young men are there, with their duffle bags unpacked, laundry in, smoking cigarettes on the bench outside.
We can't quite figure out where to find the soap and how to put it in, and hand gestures are not doing the trick.
With the help of the phrase book which I downloaded before we left, our new friends give us directions, and the task begins.
Laundry in, we wonder across the street to the Coop store, and buy bottled water for 18 cents each, deposit in the back of the car, and wonder back to the lavanderia.
Soon, three of the young men's friends arrive, and the little laundromat is getting very crowded. I decipher from their duffle bags that they are army lads.
Funny how our laundry becomes a community affair, with reminders when the load is done, how much money to put in the dryer, a few other hints on this and that.
Backpacks loaded, we're done for another week or so.
During the day we had spotted a restaurant just down and around the corner where the menu looks very impressive. So we head down in that direction to make a reservation, only to find they are not open because of a private party.
We are disappointed, but even more so when our friends from the night before come round just in time to inform us it's the best restaurant in Spoleto. And tomorrow we are leaving. Well, next time...
Our hotel recommends Ristorante del Mercato, on the piazza of the same name, and we order pasta. Mine was made with beets, and is very good. Tim enjoys the whole fish in cartoccio. My pork, however, is medium rare and not at all tender, although it looked promising. We have a really good bottle of the local sagrantino wine.
Its time to repack our bags with our clean laundry, and head off on another adventure, through the Sibillini mountains....
