Tuscany experience
Jan 26th, 2014, 02:46 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tuscany experience
We are a group of four and wanting to stay in a village or accommodation close to Florence so we can do a day trip to Florence. We would like to stay with the hosts. We will have a hire car so we can get out and about in Tuscany. We would like self catering but also the opportunity to cook with the family. Does anyone have any recommendations of a place that will tick those boxes?
Jan 27th, 2014, 04:19 AM
#2
How many days and what time of year? Some places require a week in season. What other areas of Tuscany are you planning to visit?
You can't drive into Florence as it's restricted (ZTL zones) so you would have to park on the outskirts.
I've had friends stay in these apartments that aren't too far from Florence. I think there is also bus service nearby so you wouldn't have to drive in. It might not be the best base location depending on what other towns you plan to visit.
http://www.letorri.com/
You can't drive into Florence as it's restricted (ZTL zones) so you would have to park on the outskirts.
I've had friends stay in these apartments that aren't too far from Florence. I think there is also bus service nearby so you wouldn't have to drive in. It might not be the best base location depending on what other towns you plan to visit.
http://www.letorri.com/
Jan 27th, 2014, 05:26 AM
#3
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,525
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I see it as 2 distinct destinations---Florence and rural Tuscany. You cannot do justice to both by hoping to mix the two from one location. The best of Tuscany is well south of Florence--more than an hour. And, trying to drive into Florence is folly. See Florence from Florence, then pick your ideal rural location and get the best of both.
Jan 27th, 2014, 06:26 AM
#4
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are there really no pretty towns with regular trains into Florence within a ~30 minute journey time?
Of course Prato is horrible. But Fiesole? Borgo San Lorenzo?
The Provincia di Firenze is stuffed with stations linked to the city centre. Surely some of the towns they're in meet some of Yvonne's criteria? It's just about possible to do what she's suggesting for London: for all the ineptness and corruption in awful Italy's controls over suburban sprawl, the crooks can't have ruined everywhere?
Of course Prato is horrible. But Fiesole? Borgo San Lorenzo?
The Provincia di Firenze is stuffed with stations linked to the city centre. Surely some of the towns they're in meet some of Yvonne's criteria? It's just about possible to do what she's suggesting for London: for all the ineptness and corruption in awful Italy's controls over suburban sprawl, the crooks can't have ruined everywhere?
Jan 27th, 2014, 08:17 AM
#6
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 7,962
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yvonne wants to stay in a village; villages with train stations aren't plentiful anywhere in the world, as far as I know. When I take the train in Italy, it passes through lots of very small towns that still have a station standing by the tracks, but where no trains stop any longer because of lack of demand.
A further problem in Tuscany is that many towns are on hilltops, and trains usually aren't very good at going up and down hills. The best you can hope for is a town that's fairly near a train station and that has adequate parking.
Bob is correct in saying that most of the places in Tuscany that tourists want to see are well south of Florence, making them less than ideal for day trips to Florence. The iconic towns of Montalcino, Montepulciano, and Pienza would be two hours or more from Florence by car to a station, and then a train.
Finally, Yvonne wants a place where the owners of the establishment would be happy to cook in the evening with their guests. Many people who work hard all day running a family business are not keen on giving over their evenings as well to entertaining their guests, and their English may not even be up to it. It would require a very special place, which may be hard to find.
You're most likely to find what you want at an agriturismo, which is a sort of farmhouse lodging, rather than smack in the middle of a village. I suggest that you search for the terms "agriturismo cooking classes Tuscany". Some of them may be much too far from Florence for a day trip, but you will get at least some suggestions, and you could also try searching for "near Florence" instead of "Tuscany". Once you have a short list, look for reviews of the places, and be a little wary of those that fall over themselves in econiums. I've noticed that most places that offer cooking classes have the classes during the day, but that may be a small compromise.
A further problem in Tuscany is that many towns are on hilltops, and trains usually aren't very good at going up and down hills. The best you can hope for is a town that's fairly near a train station and that has adequate parking.
Bob is correct in saying that most of the places in Tuscany that tourists want to see are well south of Florence, making them less than ideal for day trips to Florence. The iconic towns of Montalcino, Montepulciano, and Pienza would be two hours or more from Florence by car to a station, and then a train.
Finally, Yvonne wants a place where the owners of the establishment would be happy to cook in the evening with their guests. Many people who work hard all day running a family business are not keen on giving over their evenings as well to entertaining their guests, and their English may not even be up to it. It would require a very special place, which may be hard to find.
You're most likely to find what you want at an agriturismo, which is a sort of farmhouse lodging, rather than smack in the middle of a village. I suggest that you search for the terms "agriturismo cooking classes Tuscany". Some of them may be much too far from Florence for a day trip, but you will get at least some suggestions, and you could also try searching for "near Florence" instead of "Tuscany". Once you have a short list, look for reviews of the places, and be a little wary of those that fall over themselves in econiums. I've noticed that most places that offer cooking classes have the classes during the day, but that may be a small compromise.
Jan 27th, 2014, 10:05 AM
#7
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"Yvonne wants to stay in a village; villages with train stations aren't plentiful anywhere in the world, as far as I know. "
There are dozens in SE England - and around every major British city. Not to mention Paris and Lyons..
And there are at least 20 railway stations, in the Provincia di Firenze alone, outside Florence city limits, with hourly trains to one Florence station or another (http://www.trenitalia.com/cms/v/inde...003f16f90aRCRD )
And that's before we comb through villages with working stations in adjoining provinces that are also within the Florence travel to work area. Have any of the naysayers ever actually watched people getting off suburban trains at SMN or Campo di Marte around 0830?
I've no idea how many of those villages are clones of the now horrible Prato, and how many are near-clones (as Fiesole was decades ago when I was last there) of the village I live in, where the norm is to walk to the station if you want to go into town, or use the car you park in front of your house if you want to drive off somewhere else.
Yvonne's expectations about accommodation might be unrealistic. But we've no idea which bits of Tuscany she wants to drive into. My question is sparked by a long-standing idea of spending a spring month in rural northern Tuscany, renting a house and alternating between serious getting to grips with theses in Florence and pottering round the hills on days off.
Inaccurate sweeping generalisations are no substitute for asking whether anyone knows for certain that none of the dozens of stations in the provinces of Prato, Florence or Pistoia (which all, BTW, have regular passenger services) are in microtowns that are pleasing to rent a house in.
There are dozens in SE England - and around every major British city. Not to mention Paris and Lyons..
And there are at least 20 railway stations, in the Provincia di Firenze alone, outside Florence city limits, with hourly trains to one Florence station or another (http://www.trenitalia.com/cms/v/inde...003f16f90aRCRD )
And that's before we comb through villages with working stations in adjoining provinces that are also within the Florence travel to work area. Have any of the naysayers ever actually watched people getting off suburban trains at SMN or Campo di Marte around 0830?
I've no idea how many of those villages are clones of the now horrible Prato, and how many are near-clones (as Fiesole was decades ago when I was last there) of the village I live in, where the norm is to walk to the station if you want to go into town, or use the car you park in front of your house if you want to drive off somewhere else.
Yvonne's expectations about accommodation might be unrealistic. But we've no idea which bits of Tuscany she wants to drive into. My question is sparked by a long-standing idea of spending a spring month in rural northern Tuscany, renting a house and alternating between serious getting to grips with theses in Florence and pottering round the hills on days off.
Inaccurate sweeping generalisations are no substitute for asking whether anyone knows for certain that none of the dozens of stations in the provinces of Prato, Florence or Pistoia (which all, BTW, have regular passenger services) are in microtowns that are pleasing to rent a house in.
Jan 27th, 2014, 10:27 AM
#8
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Once while we were staying in San Quirico in the beautiful Val d'Orcia, we took a short drive to Bunonconvento, parked the car near the train station, and took the train to Florence. We stayed two nights. Then we returned to Buonoconvento.
Leave Buonoconvento at 8:23 & arrive in Florence at 10:05
Leave Florence at 18:10 and arrive in Buonoconvento at 20:17. 1 train change in Siena.
I suppose you could do this as a day-trip.
We stayed here in San Quirico.
http://www.house-in-tuscany.com/
We've stayed in over 60 different gites, apts, & houses in France & Italy. This was one of the best.
And here is something I wrote about scenic drives in the area
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...y-171368-2.cfm
Stu Dudley
Leave Buonoconvento at 8:23 & arrive in Florence at 10:05
Leave Florence at 18:10 and arrive in Buonoconvento at 20:17. 1 train change in Siena.
I suppose you could do this as a day-trip.
We stayed here in San Quirico.
http://www.house-in-tuscany.com/
We've stayed in over 60 different gites, apts, & houses in France & Italy. This was one of the best.
And here is something I wrote about scenic drives in the area
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...y-171368-2.cfm
Stu Dudley
Jan 27th, 2014, 02:19 PM
#12
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 7,962
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm truly happy for you, Flanner, that southern England is so well provided with train stations. Don't you just love it when people tell you how much better things are done where they live? We Italians more or less feel the same way. Rural Tuscany isn't southern England. The terrain is quite different, the population densities (ergo potential train users) are very different, and, of Europeans, Italians are among the least likely to use public transportation.
I didn't say Yvonne's request is impossible, and I actually tried to give her some useful suggestions to help her find what she's looking for, rather than just inveighing against other people's statements and counting train stations in the vicinity of Florence.
Buonconvento is in a very nice area, but the trip into Florence from a rural agriturismo would take much longer than just the train ride. I really think it's too far out.
Certaldo may actually be a good compromise.
There are two train lines that make numerous stops en route to Florence. One is the line from Arezzo to Florence. Arezzo is in a a very pretty area, and the old center of the city is quite attractive. In the church of San Francesco, you can see the fresco cycle of the Legend of the True Cross, one of the great masterpieces of Piero della Francesca. There is also a popular antiques market on the first Sunday of the month, and the Saturday of the same weekend.
If you search on the http://www.trenitalia.com/cms/v/inde...005817f90aRCRD site for trains from Arezzo to Florence (Firenze SMN), you'll see a little "i" next to the train type. Clicking on this "i" will show you the intermediate stations, and any of these would be nearer to Florence than Buonconvento. I don't know any of the towns along the valley of the Arno river, and they certainly aren't on the overly-beaten tourist trail, but that's perhaps not a bad thing.
The other train line is the line from Siena to Florence. I believe Certaldo is on this line. I know that Poggibonsi, near San Gimignano, is on the line.
I did a little searching, using the criteria I mentioned in my first post, and found these possibilities:
The first is near Montevarchi station, on the line from Arezzo to Florence. The owners specifically mention that they live on the premises and like to have personal contact with their guests. (The English page is rather more succinct than the Italian page.) They offer cooking classes and have some self-catering apartments.
http://villalevigne.it/en/
This is a similar sort of place near Poggibonsi.
http://www.agriturismolapaneretta.com/home.php?l=en
These are just places that turned up on a search, so I can't vouch for them. I suggest you do some searches of your own, using the keywords "agriturismo cooking class Tuscany", perhaps substituting the name of one of the towns for "Tuscany". Look for reviews, and then contact the hosts by phone, to see whether they seem congenial, and whether their English is serviceable. (Of course the person answering the phone may not be offering the cooking lessons.) Also, try to find out what the parking situation is at the nearest train station, because some train stations have very inadequate parking.
I didn't say Yvonne's request is impossible, and I actually tried to give her some useful suggestions to help her find what she's looking for, rather than just inveighing against other people's statements and counting train stations in the vicinity of Florence.
Buonconvento is in a very nice area, but the trip into Florence from a rural agriturismo would take much longer than just the train ride. I really think it's too far out.
Certaldo may actually be a good compromise.
There are two train lines that make numerous stops en route to Florence. One is the line from Arezzo to Florence. Arezzo is in a a very pretty area, and the old center of the city is quite attractive. In the church of San Francesco, you can see the fresco cycle of the Legend of the True Cross, one of the great masterpieces of Piero della Francesca. There is also a popular antiques market on the first Sunday of the month, and the Saturday of the same weekend.
If you search on the http://www.trenitalia.com/cms/v/inde...005817f90aRCRD site for trains from Arezzo to Florence (Firenze SMN), you'll see a little "i" next to the train type. Clicking on this "i" will show you the intermediate stations, and any of these would be nearer to Florence than Buonconvento. I don't know any of the towns along the valley of the Arno river, and they certainly aren't on the overly-beaten tourist trail, but that's perhaps not a bad thing.
The other train line is the line from Siena to Florence. I believe Certaldo is on this line. I know that Poggibonsi, near San Gimignano, is on the line.
I did a little searching, using the criteria I mentioned in my first post, and found these possibilities:
The first is near Montevarchi station, on the line from Arezzo to Florence. The owners specifically mention that they live on the premises and like to have personal contact with their guests. (The English page is rather more succinct than the Italian page.) They offer cooking classes and have some self-catering apartments.
http://villalevigne.it/en/
This is a similar sort of place near Poggibonsi.
http://www.agriturismolapaneretta.com/home.php?l=en
These are just places that turned up on a search, so I can't vouch for them. I suggest you do some searches of your own, using the keywords "agriturismo cooking class Tuscany", perhaps substituting the name of one of the towns for "Tuscany". Look for reviews, and then contact the hosts by phone, to see whether they seem congenial, and whether their English is serviceable. (Of course the person answering the phone may not be offering the cooking lessons.) Also, try to find out what the parking situation is at the nearest train station, because some train stations have very inadequate parking.
Jan 28th, 2014, 04:22 AM
#13
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for all your replies. I was beginning to think I had made it sound a bit vague etc as I didn't get any replies for a while. Thank you bvienci, for all your suggestions. I am onto it. 
Jan 28th, 2014, 05:16 AM
#15
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 7,962
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yvonne, I hope you'll let us know where you went, and whether you enjoyed it. I live in Le Marche, which is just about due east of Tuscany (even sharing a bit of border). If you ever decide to visit Le Marche, I could be of more help. However, I do know Tuscany fairly well.
Jan 28th, 2014, 06:36 AM
#16
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
>>>>We are a group of four and wanting to stay in a village <<<
>>Buonconvento is in a very nice area, but the trip into Florence from a rural agriturismo would take much longer than just the train ride. I really think it's too far out. <<
Yvonne wants to stay in a village, San Quirico d'Orcia (which I recommended) is a very nice village, and the apt is in the middle of town. It is not an agriturismo. Buonoconvento is about a 15 min drive from San Quirico. I specified the train schedule above. Yvonne can decide of that's too far away from Florence for a day-trip. We did a similar car/train day-trip from our Gite near Roanne France to Lyon this past July.
Stu Dudley
>>Buonconvento is in a very nice area, but the trip into Florence from a rural agriturismo would take much longer than just the train ride. I really think it's too far out. <<
Yvonne wants to stay in a village, San Quirico d'Orcia (which I recommended) is a very nice village, and the apt is in the middle of town. It is not an agriturismo. Buonoconvento is about a 15 min drive from San Quirico. I specified the train schedule above. Yvonne can decide of that's too far away from Florence for a day-trip. We did a similar car/train day-trip from our Gite near Roanne France to Lyon this past July.
Stu Dudley
Feb 1st, 2014, 07:56 PM
#17
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We spent a long weekend in Florence, as it's a destination worthy of more than one day.
We picked up a rental car as we we were leaving Florence and moved to an agriturismo apartment between Certaldo and San Gimignano for 4 restful nights.
Virtually every farm in Chianti and Tuscany have apartments and/or rooms as a secondary source of income.
We made great day trips to Siena, San Gimignano and Volterra.
Our rental car was turned in at Orvieto, another great hill town 70 minutes via train north of Rome.
I use Booking.com for accommodations, we just about every property in the area is listed there.
Tuscany is an area of rolling hills (not mountains), and they don't necessarily have quaint villages. The towns are a little larger than you realize. There are some great places to stay if you research them a little. TripAdvisor.com is another place to research places to stay.
We picked up a rental car as we we were leaving Florence and moved to an agriturismo apartment between Certaldo and San Gimignano for 4 restful nights.
Virtually every farm in Chianti and Tuscany have apartments and/or rooms as a secondary source of income.
We made great day trips to Siena, San Gimignano and Volterra.
Our rental car was turned in at Orvieto, another great hill town 70 minutes via train north of Rome.
I use Booking.com for accommodations, we just about every property in the area is listed there.
Tuscany is an area of rolling hills (not mountains), and they don't necessarily have quaint villages. The towns are a little larger than you realize. There are some great places to stay if you research them a little. TripAdvisor.com is another place to research places to stay.
Feb 4th, 2014, 12:16 AM
#19
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We stayed here for about 6 weeks 18 months ago. It is located in a loop of the Arno River, between Pisa and Florence. Note it is an agriturismo, not a fancy 4-starred villa; you will not meet nicer people!
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...a_Tuscany.html
The only option that would fit most of what you are looking for would be the Apartment, not their individual rooms. It has its own private entry and patio. The kitchen is well outfitted for your personal cooking and yet Enrico and Gianna will prepare dinner for you and other guests upon request. Though they don't give actual cooking lessons, you are always welcome to experience the farm life as they live it. We have sat and chatted with them as they prepared the ravioli or the home-made pastas for that night's dinner. We have harvested grapes with them and gone to crush the olives and the local mill. They will truly help you experience this portion of Tuscany as best they can for the season and the amount of time you spend.
You definitely need a car for this agriturismo, and would be within easy driving distance to visit Pisa, Lucca, Livorno and the Sanctuary of Montenero, San Gimignano, Volterra & Forte dei Marmi.
Cinque Terre is do-able as a full day's side trip, leaving the car in La Spezia and training. To visit Florence, you just have to drive 10 minutes to the Cascina train station, park, buy your 6,80 ticket and in an hour you are in Florence. Do NOT drive to Florence--taking the train is so much easier.
Others have given you option on the other areas of Tuscany, so good luck with your plans.
Ciao!
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...a_Tuscany.html
The only option that would fit most of what you are looking for would be the Apartment, not their individual rooms. It has its own private entry and patio. The kitchen is well outfitted for your personal cooking and yet Enrico and Gianna will prepare dinner for you and other guests upon request. Though they don't give actual cooking lessons, you are always welcome to experience the farm life as they live it. We have sat and chatted with them as they prepared the ravioli or the home-made pastas for that night's dinner. We have harvested grapes with them and gone to crush the olives and the local mill. They will truly help you experience this portion of Tuscany as best they can for the season and the amount of time you spend.
You definitely need a car for this agriturismo, and would be within easy driving distance to visit Pisa, Lucca, Livorno and the Sanctuary of Montenero, San Gimignano, Volterra & Forte dei Marmi.
Cinque Terre is do-able as a full day's side trip, leaving the car in La Spezia and training. To visit Florence, you just have to drive 10 minutes to the Cascina train station, park, buy your 6,80 ticket and in an hour you are in Florence. Do NOT drive to Florence--taking the train is so much easier.
Others have given you option on the other areas of Tuscany, so good luck with your plans.
Ciao!
Feb 4th, 2014, 02:36 AM
#20
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you want to stay in the countryside you can opt for apartments near Borgo San Lorenzo, just 20 minutes from Florence http://www.monsignordellacasa.com/apartments . Blissful and wild, this area is not so wellknown in Tuscany but it's really worth a stay.
