Trip Report: a Week at Italian School in Verona
Apr 30th, 2015, 08:42 AM
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Trip Report: a Week at Italian School in Verona
I’ve recently returned from 8 fabulous nights in the Veneto region of Italy, on my second solo trip. This will be brief, but I wanted to share some highlights, particularly about my language school experience since it seems there are a few people here that take classes or are interested in doing so in the future.
I’ll also try not to gush TOO much, but it will be tough – this was probably one of my favorite trips ever, which is saying a lot considering I’ve never met a vacation I didn’t like.
<B>BACKGROUND</B>
Last year I spent a very enjoyable solo week taking an Italian class at Scuola Leonardo da Vinci in Rome. I've continued my Italian studies since then, so when I found myself again traveling solo to Italy, I knew I wanted to include a week at a language school.
I zeroed in on Verona rather randomly – I was able to find an almost-free reward-travel direct round-trip flight to Venice from my home airport PHL… so Venice it was!
The rub was that even though I had never been to Venice, I didn’t have a ton of interest in spending a week there. After a little research it seemed to me that Verona would be a good fit -- easy travel distance from Marco Polo Airport, a decent-sized city, the pics online looked lovely, and transportation connections were easy and plentiful with lots of potential day-trip options. I did have some initial concern that there wasn’t enough to see and do there for a week, but this was not an issue for me. In fact, there are still plenty of things on the “to-do list” for next time.
In the end, I booked 6 nights in Verona, including five days at a language school, and finished the trip with two nights in Venice.
I’ll also try not to gush TOO much, but it will be tough – this was probably one of my favorite trips ever, which is saying a lot considering I’ve never met a vacation I didn’t like.
<B>BACKGROUND</B>
Last year I spent a very enjoyable solo week taking an Italian class at Scuola Leonardo da Vinci in Rome. I've continued my Italian studies since then, so when I found myself again traveling solo to Italy, I knew I wanted to include a week at a language school.
I zeroed in on Verona rather randomly – I was able to find an almost-free reward-travel direct round-trip flight to Venice from my home airport PHL… so Venice it was!
The rub was that even though I had never been to Venice, I didn’t have a ton of interest in spending a week there. After a little research it seemed to me that Verona would be a good fit -- easy travel distance from Marco Polo Airport, a decent-sized city, the pics online looked lovely, and transportation connections were easy and plentiful with lots of potential day-trip options. I did have some initial concern that there wasn’t enough to see and do there for a week, but this was not an issue for me. In fact, there are still plenty of things on the “to-do list” for next time.
In the end, I booked 6 nights in Verona, including five days at a language school, and finished the trip with two nights in Venice.
Apr 30th, 2015, 10:12 AM
#2
Hi, jmct,
As someone who has now spent 4 weeks at 4 different language schools in Italy, I'm agog to read about your experiences.
Was the school you attended in Rome the one round the back of St peter's? I forget the name of the road but you should be able to lace it from that description.
Ancora di piu per favore!
As someone who has now spent 4 weeks at 4 different language schools in Italy, I'm agog to read about your experiences.
Was the school you attended in Rome the one round the back of St peter's? I forget the name of the road but you should be able to lace it from that description.
Ancora di piu per favore!
Apr 30th, 2015, 10:15 AM
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<B>LA SCUOLA</B>
There are several language schools in Verona, and I read as many reviews as I could find (not many) and debated about which to attend. In the end, I selected InClasse, and I was very (very very very) pleased with that decision.
http://www.inclasse.it/ita/index.php?lang=en
Before arriving, I was asked to take a written test (hard!) to assess my level. On the first day, I arrived early for a chat with one of the instructors to determine my speaking and comprehension, and was placed in a suitable class.
The daily class is 9-1 with a 20 minute break halfway through. Before the break, we worked on grammar with one teacher (focus of the week – pronouns!) and after the break worked with another teacher on conversation and vocabulary, often through games and roll playing.
My old brain was tired by the end of each day, but I really liked the format. It was fun and there were a lot of laughs, but it was also very organized and professional. I had originally intended to only take the grammar half, to give myself more free time for excursions after school. But, on the advice of annhig, I chose to do both, and am so very glad that I did (thanks Ann! )
Classes were small – there were four students in the grammar part and 5-7 in the conversation part –with plenty of opportunity for everyone to talk and ask questions. The teachers (who are also the owners) took great care to make sure everyone was clear on whatever we were reviewing before moving on. They did a terrific job fostering a sense of community and inclusion. I felt comfortable from the minute I arrived, which is important when you only have a week, and critical when learning a language – you can’t feel bashful or shy to try if you want to improve. That can be a hard barrier to overcome (for me, anyway). But everyone was so kind and warm, and I got a chance to become friendly with quite a few of the other students, as well (I loved going to the bar down the street for a coffee at break time with everyone).
I was sad when the week came to an end. It flew by. My Italian still needs a lot of work (I think I need immersion! ), but I feel like a learned a ton in just a week. It was a great experience, and I cannot recommend this school more highly. I hope I am lucky enough to return.
There are several language schools in Verona, and I read as many reviews as I could find (not many) and debated about which to attend. In the end, I selected InClasse, and I was very (very very very) pleased with that decision.
http://www.inclasse.it/ita/index.php?lang=en
Before arriving, I was asked to take a written test (hard!) to assess my level. On the first day, I arrived early for a chat with one of the instructors to determine my speaking and comprehension, and was placed in a suitable class.
The daily class is 9-1 with a 20 minute break halfway through. Before the break, we worked on grammar with one teacher (focus of the week – pronouns!) and after the break worked with another teacher on conversation and vocabulary, often through games and roll playing.
My old brain was tired by the end of each day, but I really liked the format. It was fun and there were a lot of laughs, but it was also very organized and professional. I had originally intended to only take the grammar half, to give myself more free time for excursions after school. But, on the advice of annhig, I chose to do both, and am so very glad that I did (thanks Ann! )
Classes were small – there were four students in the grammar part and 5-7 in the conversation part –with plenty of opportunity for everyone to talk and ask questions. The teachers (who are also the owners) took great care to make sure everyone was clear on whatever we were reviewing before moving on. They did a terrific job fostering a sense of community and inclusion. I felt comfortable from the minute I arrived, which is important when you only have a week, and critical when learning a language – you can’t feel bashful or shy to try if you want to improve. That can be a hard barrier to overcome (for me, anyway). But everyone was so kind and warm, and I got a chance to become friendly with quite a few of the other students, as well (I loved going to the bar down the street for a coffee at break time with everyone).
I was sad when the week came to an end. It flew by. My Italian still needs a lot of work (I think I need immersion! ), but I feel like a learned a ton in just a week. It was a great experience, and I cannot recommend this school more highly. I hope I am lucky enough to return.
Apr 30th, 2015, 10:22 AM
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Hi Ann,
No, the school I attended in Rome was in the Navona/Campo de Fiori area, between Via del Governo Vecchio and Corso Vittorio Emanuele. I also had a great experience there, but the school was MUCH bigger than the one in Verona with many more students in the class.
No, the school I attended in Rome was in the Navona/Campo de Fiori area, between Via del Governo Vecchio and Corso Vittorio Emanuele. I also had a great experience there, but the school was MUCH bigger than the one in Verona with many more students in the class.
Apr 30th, 2015, 10:40 AM
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Hi jmct,
Thank you for your report, it sounds like a great experience. I've been to three different schools in Italy and always go to smaller cities/ towns as I think it provides better opportunities for practicing my Italian. Verona is a gorgeous city and I'm happy to find out that it has a good school. I will certainly consider it next time.
Did you stay at a hotel or apartment?
What kind of after class activities did they offer?
Thank you for your report, it sounds like a great experience. I've been to three different schools in Italy and always go to smaller cities/ towns as I think it provides better opportunities for practicing my Italian. Verona is a gorgeous city and I'm happy to find out that it has a good school. I will certainly consider it next time.
Did you stay at a hotel or apartment?
What kind of after class activities did they offer?
Apr 30th, 2015, 10:48 AM
#6
hi again,
I'm glad that what I said was helpful and that you had such a terrific time. I am listening to an italian DVD at the moment [from Tutto Italiano] and they say at the beginning that Italian is the 4th most popular language for foreigners to learn. [I wonder what 1,2, & 3 are?] so it's no wonder that there are so many schools teaching it; on the whole they seem to be pretty good.
looking forward to reading more......
I'm glad that what I said was helpful and that you had such a terrific time. I am listening to an italian DVD at the moment [from Tutto Italiano] and they say at the beginning that Italian is the 4th most popular language for foreigners to learn. [I wonder what 1,2, & 3 are?] so it's no wonder that there are so many schools teaching it; on the whole they seem to be pretty good.
looking forward to reading more......
Apr 30th, 2015, 02:13 PM
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hi cruiseluv,
I chose to stay in a hotel, which I arranged myself. One of the women in my class was renting a room in the apartment of one of the teachers. She said it was a good experience for her and the location was good.
There were a few free activities - a movie night and a tour of the garden in Verona. I didn't make it to either of those. I went on two excursions with the school - one to Sirmione and a second to Lazise, which also included a with a wine tasting. I also lucked out because there was a party celebrating the school's 4th birthday on my last day in Verona. All great fun.
I chose to stay in a hotel, which I arranged myself. One of the women in my class was renting a room in the apartment of one of the teachers. She said it was a good experience for her and the location was good.
There were a few free activities - a movie night and a tour of the garden in Verona. I didn't make it to either of those. I went on two excursions with the school - one to Sirmione and a second to Lazise, which also included a with a wine tasting. I also lucked out because there was a party celebrating the school's 4th birthday on my last day in Verona. All great fun.
Apr 30th, 2015, 09:36 PM
#8
I studied for a week at La Scuola Leonardo da Vinci in Rome last summer. It was your report that inspired me. I had a wonderfully fun week, so thank you. And now thank you again for this report! I hope you plan to tell us a bit about your time outside of school activities in Verona and how you enjoyed Venice.
May 1st, 2015, 04:47 AM
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Some non-school detail...
<B>VERONA</B>
My journey to Verona was a bit long but painless. The US Air flight from Philly was surprisingly pleasant (and very early!) and getting through Marco Polo was a breeze.
While I waited for my luggage, I found an ACTV machine and printed out the Vaporetto pass that I had pre-purchased online for the Venice portion of my trip. Pre-purchasing isn’t really necessary, but I was glad I had a ticket in-hand when I arrived at the Venice train station later in the week and was greeted by mobs at the ticket lines.
http://www.veneziaunica.it/it/e-commerce/services
From the airport, I took the ATVO bus (very clearly marked, right outside of baggage claim/arrivals; the bus had under-carriage luggage storage)to Mestre Train Station (about 20 mins), the train to Verona (a little over an hour) and a taxi to the hotel, all without any major hiccups. A good start!
I immediately liked Verona, and by the end of my stay I was in love. Piazza Bra, one of the main piazzas and home of the Arena, was bustling with a food and wine festival when I arrived, complete with brilliant sunshine, tons of food stands and live music. The energy was great. I couldn't wait to explore and taste.
I was very fortunate to have perfect spring weather all week, and every day included miles of walking and admiring this beautiful city. There were certainly a lot of tourists around the main attractions (many more than I expected at this time of the year, pre-opera season, to be honest), but it was easy to take a turn down a pretty side street and find yourself fairly alone, or perhaps at a little café for a spritz or glass of the local Soave white wine.
I also had some nice strolls along the beautiful Adige River that wends itself around the city center, and spent time visiting the Duomo, Basilica San Zeno (stunning), the Castle (Castelvecchio) and the Arena (sadly no opera in April). Of course I took an obligatory peek at "Juliet's House" and a snap of the balcony. It seems a bit silly to me, but my Mom loved the pic I sent her, so I was glad I went.
I got into the spirit of the aperitivo pretty quickly. A few were spent with the tourists in the cafes around Piazza Bra for some people-watching and spritz-sipping (there were many spritzes this week), as well as in pretty Piazzas Erbe and Signora. Verona is stuffed with cafes, bars, restaurants, etc. to choose from.
Overall, I found Verona to be a relaxing, picture-perfect place. Bonus was that even though English was widely spoken, almost everyone I interacted with kindly allowed me to practice my Italian, no matter how badly I butchered it!
<B>VERONA</B>
My journey to Verona was a bit long but painless. The US Air flight from Philly was surprisingly pleasant (and very early!) and getting through Marco Polo was a breeze.
While I waited for my luggage, I found an ACTV machine and printed out the Vaporetto pass that I had pre-purchased online for the Venice portion of my trip. Pre-purchasing isn’t really necessary, but I was glad I had a ticket in-hand when I arrived at the Venice train station later in the week and was greeted by mobs at the ticket lines.
http://www.veneziaunica.it/it/e-commerce/services
From the airport, I took the ATVO bus (very clearly marked, right outside of baggage claim/arrivals; the bus had under-carriage luggage storage)to Mestre Train Station (about 20 mins), the train to Verona (a little over an hour) and a taxi to the hotel, all without any major hiccups. A good start!
I immediately liked Verona, and by the end of my stay I was in love. Piazza Bra, one of the main piazzas and home of the Arena, was bustling with a food and wine festival when I arrived, complete with brilliant sunshine, tons of food stands and live music. The energy was great. I couldn't wait to explore and taste.
I was very fortunate to have perfect spring weather all week, and every day included miles of walking and admiring this beautiful city. There were certainly a lot of tourists around the main attractions (many more than I expected at this time of the year, pre-opera season, to be honest), but it was easy to take a turn down a pretty side street and find yourself fairly alone, or perhaps at a little café for a spritz or glass of the local Soave white wine.
I also had some nice strolls along the beautiful Adige River that wends itself around the city center, and spent time visiting the Duomo, Basilica San Zeno (stunning), the Castle (Castelvecchio) and the Arena (sadly no opera in April). Of course I took an obligatory peek at "Juliet's House" and a snap of the balcony. It seems a bit silly to me, but my Mom loved the pic I sent her, so I was glad I went.
I got into the spirit of the aperitivo pretty quickly. A few were spent with the tourists in the cafes around Piazza Bra for some people-watching and spritz-sipping (there were many spritzes this week), as well as in pretty Piazzas Erbe and Signora. Verona is stuffed with cafes, bars, restaurants, etc. to choose from.
Overall, I found Verona to be a relaxing, picture-perfect place. Bonus was that even though English was widely spoken, almost everyone I interacted with kindly allowed me to practice my Italian, no matter how badly I butchered it!
May 1st, 2015, 06:00 AM
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A few additional notes from Verona:
<b>Hotel Torcolo</b> – this hotel is fairly basic, with a central location close to Piazza Bra and good internet, but few frills and perhaps a tad noisy at night, even with the windows closed. The star of the hotel is the staff. Everyone I encountered was kind, helpful and friendly. One day I planned a trip to Vicenza and asked about the bus to the train station – the lovely woman at the desk reached into her purse to get a bus ticket for me, and refused to take a cent for it.
<b> Day trip to Vicenza </b>– I spent a few hours one afternoon after school in Vicenza, wandering the streets and admiring the Palladian architecture, window shopping and picture-taking. I was also lucky to catch a really well-done exhibit at the Palladian Basillica, called Tutankhamen, Caravaggio, and Van Gogh: Night Scenes. The train ride was about 45 minutes from Verona. It was an easy walk from the train station to the centro, and a nice way to spend an afternoon.
http://www.museicivicivicenza.it/it/...nti.php/106076
<b>Day trips to Sirmione and Lazise </b>– I had hoped to visit Lake Garda on my own at least once during my stay, via train and/or bus, but as luck would have it, the school had two excursions planned to Garda.
Sirmione was beautiful, and I think a warm April day was the best time to see it… I would think that it gets quite mobbed during the summer months.
We climbed to the top of the castle for wonderful views of Garda and the surrounding mountains, and visited the Grotto of Catullus, the remains of a villa that the Roman poet Catullus may or may not have lived in 50 or so years B.C. I found this fascinating, and the experience was enhanced by the explanations of our teacher (all in Italian! Woot!). Per my phone, we walked about 8 miles in Sirmione, thoroughly exploring the town. This gal was tired, but it was a great day and I saw and learned much more than if I had gone on my own.
The following day the school arranged a trip to a small vineyard near Bardolino for a wine and olive oil tasting, followed by a wander around the Lake town of Lazise. Again, a lovely town and a beautiful day. I would love to return here one day for a stroll along the coast, or better yet a bike ride to Bardolino. Stunning.
There are some pretty pics of it here
http://luxeadventuretraveler.com/sirmione-italy/
<b>Dining</b>
This wasn’t really a foodie trip at all for me, but I did have a few notable experiences
Nastro Azzurro - this restaurant was around the corner from my hotel, and I also read about it in a trip report here. I had a lovely lunch here of risotto and asparagus paired with a Soave (or two). Delicious.
I returned another night for dinner to try the Risotto with Amarone. This was also quite tasty, and it turned out to be a really fun night, too. I was seated near a very chatty Australian gal, also traveling solo, who ultimately joined me for dinner. We struck up a conversation with a lovely British couple nearby, and had a great time chatting and laughing into the night.
http://www.ristorantenastroazzurrove.../en/index.html
Cangrande Ristorante & Enoteca - also near my hotel, I tried the guanciale all’amarone. I’m not normally a big carnivore, but this was mouth-wateringly fabulous. The service was professional without being overly stuffy, and they had a pretty little outdoor space for al fresco dining. I wish I had found this place earlier. They had an interesting menu with many local dishes, and I would have liked to sample a few other offerings.
http://enotecacangrande.it/
Panino from Verona train station vending machine – not recommended
<b>Hotel Torcolo</b> – this hotel is fairly basic, with a central location close to Piazza Bra and good internet, but few frills and perhaps a tad noisy at night, even with the windows closed. The star of the hotel is the staff. Everyone I encountered was kind, helpful and friendly. One day I planned a trip to Vicenza and asked about the bus to the train station – the lovely woman at the desk reached into her purse to get a bus ticket for me, and refused to take a cent for it.
<b> Day trip to Vicenza </b>– I spent a few hours one afternoon after school in Vicenza, wandering the streets and admiring the Palladian architecture, window shopping and picture-taking. I was also lucky to catch a really well-done exhibit at the Palladian Basillica, called Tutankhamen, Caravaggio, and Van Gogh: Night Scenes. The train ride was about 45 minutes from Verona. It was an easy walk from the train station to the centro, and a nice way to spend an afternoon.
http://www.museicivicivicenza.it/it/...nti.php/106076
<b>Day trips to Sirmione and Lazise </b>– I had hoped to visit Lake Garda on my own at least once during my stay, via train and/or bus, but as luck would have it, the school had two excursions planned to Garda.
Sirmione was beautiful, and I think a warm April day was the best time to see it… I would think that it gets quite mobbed during the summer months.
We climbed to the top of the castle for wonderful views of Garda and the surrounding mountains, and visited the Grotto of Catullus, the remains of a villa that the Roman poet Catullus may or may not have lived in 50 or so years B.C. I found this fascinating, and the experience was enhanced by the explanations of our teacher (all in Italian! Woot!). Per my phone, we walked about 8 miles in Sirmione, thoroughly exploring the town. This gal was tired, but it was a great day and I saw and learned much more than if I had gone on my own.
The following day the school arranged a trip to a small vineyard near Bardolino for a wine and olive oil tasting, followed by a wander around the Lake town of Lazise. Again, a lovely town and a beautiful day. I would love to return here one day for a stroll along the coast, or better yet a bike ride to Bardolino. Stunning.
There are some pretty pics of it here
http://luxeadventuretraveler.com/sirmione-italy/
<b>Dining</b>
This wasn’t really a foodie trip at all for me, but I did have a few notable experiences
Nastro Azzurro - this restaurant was around the corner from my hotel, and I also read about it in a trip report here. I had a lovely lunch here of risotto and asparagus paired with a Soave (or two). Delicious.
I returned another night for dinner to try the Risotto with Amarone. This was also quite tasty, and it turned out to be a really fun night, too. I was seated near a very chatty Australian gal, also traveling solo, who ultimately joined me for dinner. We struck up a conversation with a lovely British couple nearby, and had a great time chatting and laughing into the night.
http://www.ristorantenastroazzurrove.../en/index.html
Cangrande Ristorante & Enoteca - also near my hotel, I tried the guanciale all’amarone. I’m not normally a big carnivore, but this was mouth-wateringly fabulous. The service was professional without being overly stuffy, and they had a pretty little outdoor space for al fresco dining. I wish I had found this place earlier. They had an interesting menu with many local dishes, and I would have liked to sample a few other offerings.
http://enotecacangrande.it/
Panino from Verona train station vending machine – not recommended
May 1st, 2015, 12:09 PM
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<B>VENICE</B>
For whatever reason, Venice has never ranked high on my vacation priority list. I tried to get myself excited for my time there by reading trip reports, looking at pics, and learning about the history of the city, but I’ll admit that I arrived with a bit of skepticism.
In fact, my original plan was to go to Padua after Verona, and miss Venice altogether. But, after much waffling, I ultimately decided that since I was going to be so close to Venice, I should make a visit. Padua would have to wait until next time.
I was to arrive in Venice on Saturday April 25th – an Italian holiday and a Venetian holiday. This concerned me, but I pushed through with my plan. Perhaps because of the weekend holiday, the train to Venice from Verona was packed. Luckily Verona was the origination point for the Regionale Veloce train, so I was able to get a seat and space for my bag for the hour+ trip.
When I stepped out of the train station in Venice, I immediately started to question my choice. There were hoards of people, with long lines in front of the vaporetto stops and a lot of general confusion (or perhaps I was the only one confused. But I doubt it). I don’t know if it was because of the holiday, or because it was Saturday, or if it’s always like that, but … yikes.
Since I already had my ticket, I was able to bypass the ticket buying lines. I eventually worked out which vaporetto to take to my hotel in Dorsoduro, and how to get on it, and was pretty much carried on by the crowd when it arrived. I gave up trying to take in any views, and went to my happy place for the duration of the ride.
I easily found my hotel, showered off the morning stress, and set out to explore. I walked around Dorsodoro a bit before making my way to the Zattere area for a tasty canal-side lunch, took the edge off with a glass of wine, and then on to Canareggio.
I had signed up for a cicchetti food tour with Urban Adventures, which met in the Canareggio sestiere. My plan was to take the vaporetto to Ca D’Oro, visit awhile, then maybe wander the area a bit before meeting the tour.
After an infinitely more pleasant vaporetto ride than my morning trip, I was disappointed to arrive at Ca D’Oro to find that most of the palace rooms were closed. They would be open on Sunday, but they weren’t able to open on Saturday, the nice man working there explained. He suggested that I visit the garden area now (at no charge), because that may be closed tomorrow, but was open today. I looked around, took some snaps, then decided to just explore Canareggio a bit more before my tour.
I didn’t enjoy this area at all. I couldn’t seem to escape the crowds and tourist tack. I’d try to walk down a smaller alley, and still find myself somehow sucked back into the throng. I walked to the lovely Madonna dell’Orto for a visit and some quiet, but then got lost trying to find the meeting place for the tour, and once again found myself engulfed by crowds. I was tired. I was crabby. I went back to the hotel.
Day 1 was a bit of a bust, but there was some redemption later in the day. After a rest at the hotel, I took an early-evening stroll (let’s be honest – in search of a glass of wine), and it was just lovely. Crowds were thinner, the light was pretty. I can see the allure.
Since I bungled the cicchetti tour, I attempted to make my own tour… but found a place I loved, and never left. Oops. I won’t lie -- I went there three times in two days. It was fun sampling different cicchetti and sipping a spritz or prosecco canal side, overlooking the gondola repair yard.
https://osteriaalsquero.wordpress.com/
Now in a much better mood, I walked back to the hotel and settled in for a much-needed sleep.
For whatever reason, Venice has never ranked high on my vacation priority list. I tried to get myself excited for my time there by reading trip reports, looking at pics, and learning about the history of the city, but I’ll admit that I arrived with a bit of skepticism.
In fact, my original plan was to go to Padua after Verona, and miss Venice altogether. But, after much waffling, I ultimately decided that since I was going to be so close to Venice, I should make a visit. Padua would have to wait until next time.
I was to arrive in Venice on Saturday April 25th – an Italian holiday and a Venetian holiday. This concerned me, but I pushed through with my plan. Perhaps because of the weekend holiday, the train to Venice from Verona was packed. Luckily Verona was the origination point for the Regionale Veloce train, so I was able to get a seat and space for my bag for the hour+ trip.
When I stepped out of the train station in Venice, I immediately started to question my choice. There were hoards of people, with long lines in front of the vaporetto stops and a lot of general confusion (or perhaps I was the only one confused. But I doubt it). I don’t know if it was because of the holiday, or because it was Saturday, or if it’s always like that, but … yikes.
Since I already had my ticket, I was able to bypass the ticket buying lines. I eventually worked out which vaporetto to take to my hotel in Dorsoduro, and how to get on it, and was pretty much carried on by the crowd when it arrived. I gave up trying to take in any views, and went to my happy place for the duration of the ride.
I easily found my hotel, showered off the morning stress, and set out to explore. I walked around Dorsodoro a bit before making my way to the Zattere area for a tasty canal-side lunch, took the edge off with a glass of wine, and then on to Canareggio.
I had signed up for a cicchetti food tour with Urban Adventures, which met in the Canareggio sestiere. My plan was to take the vaporetto to Ca D’Oro, visit awhile, then maybe wander the area a bit before meeting the tour.
After an infinitely more pleasant vaporetto ride than my morning trip, I was disappointed to arrive at Ca D’Oro to find that most of the palace rooms were closed. They would be open on Sunday, but they weren’t able to open on Saturday, the nice man working there explained. He suggested that I visit the garden area now (at no charge), because that may be closed tomorrow, but was open today. I looked around, took some snaps, then decided to just explore Canareggio a bit more before my tour.
I didn’t enjoy this area at all. I couldn’t seem to escape the crowds and tourist tack. I’d try to walk down a smaller alley, and still find myself somehow sucked back into the throng. I walked to the lovely Madonna dell’Orto for a visit and some quiet, but then got lost trying to find the meeting place for the tour, and once again found myself engulfed by crowds. I was tired. I was crabby. I went back to the hotel.
Day 1 was a bit of a bust, but there was some redemption later in the day. After a rest at the hotel, I took an early-evening stroll (let’s be honest – in search of a glass of wine), and it was just lovely. Crowds were thinner, the light was pretty. I can see the allure.
Since I bungled the cicchetti tour, I attempted to make my own tour… but found a place I loved, and never left. Oops. I won’t lie -- I went there three times in two days. It was fun sampling different cicchetti and sipping a spritz or prosecco canal side, overlooking the gondola repair yard.
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Now in a much better mood, I walked back to the hotel and settled in for a much-needed sleep.
May 1st, 2015, 12:37 PM
#17
I haven't been to Venice in over a decade, but I remember finding peace, quiet and solitude in Canareggio--maybe a different part? I was in the former Jewish Ghetto and a little outward from there, around Rio della Misericordia, Rio della Sense, etc. It was a Saturday and none of the Jewish sties were open, so perhaps that's why it felt so quiet.
I want to revisit Venice someday too, so reading this with interest.
I want to revisit Venice someday too, so reading this with interest.
May 1st, 2015, 06:38 PM
#18
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In fairness, I think bad timing, bad luck and bad navigational skills contributed greatly to my less than positive experience. IM sure there are lovely areas of canareggio - I just couldn't seem to find them. Just wasn't my day!
May 1st, 2015, 11:00 PM
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You need time to discover Venice. I have now stayed twice in Venice, in Cannaregio, and love it. It is true that Strada Nova is usually crowded but there are lovely parts in Cannaregio, quiet and atmospheric.
And even if this was my second trip and second stay in a part of Venice I knew from my previous visit in 2010, it still took me half a day to get my bearings and really like Venice once again. From then on it was fierce love...
I also had stayed in Verona before, for 3.5 days, and didn't want to leave. I had the same feeling after spending 5 days in Venice later on, and having to leave it.
Thanks for a great report which brings fantastic memories, our trips coincided, I also visited that fabulous food fair in Verona. I absolutely adore this town.
And even if this was my second trip and second stay in a part of Venice I knew from my previous visit in 2010, it still took me half a day to get my bearings and really like Venice once again. From then on it was fierce love...
I also had stayed in Verona before, for 3.5 days, and didn't want to leave. I had the same feeling after spending 5 days in Venice later on, and having to leave it.
Thanks for a great report which brings fantastic memories, our trips coincided, I also visited that fabulous food fair in Verona. I absolutely adore this town.
May 2nd, 2015, 01:15 AM
#20
jmct, your description of your dismay at the crowds you found in Cannareggio made me laugh as when we found ourselves there at the end of our week at the language school in Campo San Margherita, my companions were amazed at the amount of life and people that they saw along the Strada Nova. They had thought that Venice was all like the little calle and spacious campi that they had seen in Dorsoduro, or the architectural treasures [and tourist hotspots] of San Marco. So seeing the crowds in the chain shops and McDonalds was quite a shock.
anyway I'm glad that you finally started to appreciate Venice. like you, if I find somewhere I like I tend to keep going back; having found my favourite breakfast bar on my way to school on y last visit, I don't bother to go anywhere else. And in Florence, I ate at the same restaurant both nights and doubt very much if I could have done better.
Annw - I have indeed done trip reports about my italian language school trips - just click on my screen name. The one for Venice this last Feb isn't quite finished but I've only got the last afternoon and evening to go, I think.
anyway I'm glad that you finally started to appreciate Venice. like you, if I find somewhere I like I tend to keep going back; having found my favourite breakfast bar on my way to school on y last visit, I don't bother to go anywhere else. And in Florence, I ate at the same restaurant both nights and doubt very much if I could have done better.
Annw - I have indeed done trip reports about my italian language school trips - just click on my screen name. The one for Venice this last Feb isn't quite finished but I've only got the last afternoon and evening to go, I think.
