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Three and half days in Venice

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Three and half days in Venice

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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 07:14 AM
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Three and half days in Venice

I would like some help in planning our 3.5 days in Venice in June. We will be arriving on a Friday at 4 pm and leaving Tuesday at 9 Am. We ere traveling with our 2 daughters (18 &22). We are staying in an apartment in Dorsoduro. We are the type of people that love to walk around and really get the feel of the place. I need help planning our itinerary.
Friday afternoon by the time we get to our place I though just go out and walk around Dorsoduro and find a place to eat. Any restaurant recommendations ( $60-70 euros max for 4) or a good pizza place will be great.
Is Saturday a good day to to to St. Marks Basilica or shall we wait for Monday? If that is the case I would love to go to Burano (do we spend one day there or do we hop to the other islands like Murano & Torcello?
Sunday walk around the neighborhoods like Cannaregio, Castello and just stop wherever we feel like it. Restaurant recommendations??
Monday: St Mark's and surrounding areas if we did not go on Saturday.
I have seen that there are some tours for St. Mark's Basilica. Are they worth it, or its better to do it on our own.

Another question is regarding the Vaporetto tickets. Is there like a 3 day pass or do we need to get a ticket as needed?

Any input you can give me will be appreciated.

Thanks a lot
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 08:03 AM
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One more question, do we need another day in Venice. We're heading to Barcelona and planning on staying there 5.5 days. We could add a day to Venice and take one from Barcelona. Any comments?
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 08:22 AM
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I've been to both Venice and Barcelona. I like both places. I think 3.5 days in Venice is nice and the right amount of time. I love winding the back streets with no agenda. It is so atmospheric. and charming. Barcelona is a big city and has a lot to do. The architecture is awesome and was my favorite part of the city. Spend time checking out Gaudi and the church he built (it's not finished) la Sagrade Familia. Browse the shops, enjoy all the tapas. There's also the Picasso museum, etc. We even took in a basketball game. We tacked on a side trip from Barcelona to Gerona, an ancient town a train ride to the north. All said, you can't go wrong with what you choose. Both Venice and Barcelona are enriching places. Don't forget to have a cup or two of the rich hot chocolate in Barcelona.
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 08:38 AM
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Anneslex5 did you get the train tickets ahead of time or did you buy them at the station. Where does the train leave from? We're staying in an apartment at L'Exaimple.

Any tapas place you recommend.

Thanks a lot
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 08:49 AM
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One thing we never miss in Venice is the Rialto Market. It is a marvel. Go early one mornong (I think it may be closed Sunday) to see it at its best.
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 09:29 AM
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Your time allocation is reasonable and I wouldn't change it unless you could add more time to both.

I am not a plan to the hour kind of person, I prefer to play it by ear. So no suggestions on an 'itinerary' from me.
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 10:10 AM
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The Rialto market is closed Sunday and Monday, so go there on Saturday morning. Friday when you arrive is when I would go to Piazza San Marco. I assume you will get vaporetto passes? Take the vaporetto from the Accademia or Salute stop in Dorsoduro to San Zaccaria stop in San Marco. You will pass by the Doge's palace and the Piazzeta and it is a stunning thing to see from the water - a great entry that has amazed visitors for many hundreds of years. Then get off the boat and walk in to Piazza San Marco through the Piazzeta.

Sunday is a great day to stroll Cannaregio and Castello. I would not go to Burano with the amount of time you have.

Your food budget is kind of low, but you can eat reasonably at Taverna San Trovaso in Dorsoduro on that if you don't order too much. The portions are large and they also have pizza. For a quick snack in a fun environment get crostini and wine at Gia Schiavi.

In Cannaregio my favorite pizza place is Casa Mia on Calle Oca or you might opt for excellent crostini at Al Timon close to the ghetto.
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 11:16 AM
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Rialtogrl, thank you for the input. Our budget for meals is around $150 euros for the day for the 4 of us. Do you think that is enough? We can have breakfast in the apartment.
Do we get vaporetto tickets as needed or do we need to get a 3 day pass. Do we get that at the airport?
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 12:03 PM
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There's a big difference between $150 and 150 Euros. Which is your budget?
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 12:09 PM
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Rialtogirl's recommendation for Taverna San Trovaso is good. Another place to consider is Casin de Nobile, just off Campo San Barnaba for a meal. A family kind of place, and they have a range of inexpensive meals, pizza. And the like.

Gia Shiavi is fun.
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 12:14 PM
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I got screwed up by that $60-70 euros above. And I am with Holly - are you talking dollars or euros?

With either budget I would take a list of recommended places (you can search here there have been many threads, also on chowhound.com) and would be very careful not to sit down and eat somewhere random.

Are you taking the train in and out of Venice or is there a flight involved? A 36 hour vaporetto pass would be more effective than buying individual tickets. But it would help to know how you are getting into town and also how you are getting out.
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 12:17 PM
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Wandering -- We stayed in the same area in Barcelona. Great base for us. Are you asking about the train within Spain? I believe we got the tickets for Gerona at the station right beforehand and I know it was a bit confusing, but it all worked out. I would check the Rick Steves book for details like that. I don't recall the exact procedure. I ate potato bravas wherever they had it!
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 01:33 PM
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I have to offer a bit of a caveat here - Lou and I are Venetian nut cases, totally seduced by Venice. I don't know Barcelona much, having visited there only once, three decades ago. But Guardi's architecture is really worth seeing. That being said, I'd add a day to Venice, and subtract one from Barcelona.

I you click on my user name, you'll find trip reports that I've written for Venice - we have visited three times for extended periods, but never in June.

I'm assuming that you will fly into Marco Polo, and fly out to Barcelona from Marco Polo. In that case, the easiest way to get to Dorsoduo is to take the Alilaguna water bus from Marco Polo to Dorsoduro. Take the Arancia / Orange line, and it will take you to the Ca'Rezzonico vaporetto stop. It depends a bit on where your apartment is - if you are at the Salute end of Dorsoduro, then land bus and vaporetto might be easier. The Alilaguna costs about 15 euro, and the Alilaguna and ATV water buses are separate organisatins, so a vaporetto pass gives you access to ACTV water buses, but not Alilaguna services to the airport.

The area around San Marco, the Piazza, Doges Palace and Basilica gets very crowded during the day, but the Piazza is great in the very early morning, or in the evening once the day trippers have departed and the cruise liners have sailed. The main drag, from Rialto to San Marco can be very crowded, best avoided during the day. The restaurants in the Piazza (Florians, Quadri et al) are formidably expensive, and costs are generally higher closer to San Marco. In the Piazza, take a look at the Olivetti showroom, same side of the Piazza as Quadri, about 50 metres to the left of Quadri. The showroom was designed by Carlo Scarpa, Venice's best known modern architect, and there are Frank Lloyd Wright and also Japanese touches to his work. A nice contrast to Guardi's work that you will see in Barcelona.

I think that with three or four days only, Murano/Burano/Torcello is not viable, and the water bus to Burano can be horribly crowded. Venice is not noted for night life, but your daughters might enjoy hanging out in Campo Margerita in Dorsoduro. Heaps of bars, and that is where the students hang out.

Cantina Gia Schiavoni is fun for lunch. They serve chicheti, Venice's answer to the Spanish tapa. Point to what you want, each piece costs one euro. The lady will hand your plate to the barman, and you will pay him. Order a glass of wine, which will cost about 1.50 euro. If it's crowded, you can take your food outside - if you are going outside, order your wine in a plastic cup, as you can't take glasses outside.

The Rialto market is fun. Go as early as you can, when the fish is still being unloaded and the market is being set up. Go before breakfast, and then get a coffee at croissant in a bar for breakfast. Eat it at the bar, rather than sitting down, as it is cheaper to stand rather than sit. A coffee and croissant will cost you about 2.50 euro.

Things to see and do. The Basilica is a must, as is riding the No 1 vaporetto the length of the Grand Canal. The Doges Palace is impressive, takes about two hours to see, depending on how crowded it is. The Frari church is great, soaring, take your breath away, Gothic. Check out the pyramid shaped monument to Canova, emotion rendered in marble.The bar immediately over the bridge in front of the Frari, Al Archivo, is a bit of a favourite, and good for lunch. The church of San Polo is a must (for me, at least), with the Stations of the Cross in the Sacristy a great cycle of paintings by Tiepolo. The story of the crucifixion told in fourteen paintings, almost like a film strip.

Two galleries, the Academe and Ca' Rezzonico, are both worth visiting. I believe that the building works at the Academe have been finished, so it should be pretty special. Ca' Rezzonice (Byron lived there for a while) is great, as the building retains much of its original decor.

Churches charge three euro for admission, and you can buy a Chorus pass for 13 euro, giving admission to many churches, so it pays off if you are visiting more than three churches. The Basilica is free - but can have a long line to get in.

There is a supermarket (Billa) on the Zattere near the San Basilio vap stop, also a Punto supermarket in Campo Margerita, at the San Barnaba end of the Campo. The pizza place opposite Punto does pizza by the slice. If you are buying fruit or veg in a supermarket, you bag your produce, weigh it and fix the bar coded label to the bag. Avoid supermarkets from about 5:30 onwards - all of Venice is then buying their evening meal, and you can lose 20 minutes at the check out.

You will get lost for sure - that's part of the Venetian experience. It is worth having a good map!
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 02:24 PM
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 02:54 PM
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Where in Dorsoduro is you apartment? Some parts of Dorsoduro are quite close to transportation at Piazzale Roma, some to Ca' Rezzonico, and some to Salute. To reach each of these would requre different transportation routes.

If you go all the way to Burano (a 30 minute ride), you will be quite close to Torcello, so you should probably visit while you are there.

For your group, since you will be there so many days, I would probably buy travel cards so you can hop on and off a vaporetto any time you feel like it without thinking about to cost of yet another ticket.

Here is my trip report from a few years ago. While the prices may be a bit outdated, the information about sights, neighborhoods, and wandering may be helpful to you.

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 05:03 PM
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Thank you for all the information. I agree that it's better to go to the restaurants that have been recommended than to experiment with a random place. Here are some answers to the questions I have been asked.
- the budget for food is $ 150 euros per day for 4 people. We can allow $175 euros if needed.
- we are flying in and out of MarcoPolo airport.
-We're staying at the Palazzetto da Schio. It says to take the “Alilaguna ferry at the airport.
Can you recommend a good map and guide book. I just went to Barnes and Noble and there were many choices in books. DK eyewitness, Fodors, Ray Stevens. What is the best?
Another question, somebody said to go to St. Marcos the afternoon if our arrival and others said to go early in the morning. What would be best?
Again thanks a lot for all the info. I need to sit down and get my thought in order and familiarize myself with the area and place everything in a map.
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Old Feb 16th, 2014, 05:07 PM
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Another question is the language. I'm fluent in English and Spanish. Is there a good book for Italian for travelers or English will be enough.
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Old Feb 17th, 2014, 06:42 AM
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You still haven't clarified what your food budget is. At today's exchange rate, $150 = 109 Euros. 150 Euros = $205.
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Old Feb 17th, 2014, 06:52 AM
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Wandering, using the $ symbol indicates dollars. Writing $150 Euros indicates what? Either use the $ symbol or LEAVE it off and write 150 Euros or 150E if you mean Euros.
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Old Feb 17th, 2014, 06:58 AM
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It is definitely easiest to take the Alilaguna to your lodgings.
I'd get the 3 day vaporetto pass when you arrive and go to Piazza San Marco the night you arrive. You will be blown away. But the Basilica may be closed by the time you get over there. If you have vaporetto passes, it will be no big deal because you can just hop back on and go back another morning.

I'm a little confused by your guidebook question. Are you asking if there are guidebooks in Italian? You can get the DK guides in Spanish, Italian, English....
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