The Lisbon Dining Club.

CERVEJARIA DA TRINDADE review.

So having arranged to meet Lobo at 7.30 I caught the sunset ferry from Cacilhas to Cais do Sodre, here's the view I had:

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I wasnt't the only one enjoying the view:

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I got to the restaurant:

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And whilst waiting for Lobo had a beer in the bar:

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You wait to be seated, the first room is a large main hall with tiled walls and a vaulted ceiling:

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And so Lobo and I sat and got to know each other whilst choosing from the menu:

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We decided to start with Ameijoas Trindade (10.95 euros):

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...which are cooked in a garlic, butter and parsley sauce. (I personally found the sauce a little salty but the clams were fresh tender and the shells did not contain a hint of sand.)

Conversation flowed easily and it was an extension of the banter we share on this thread:

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(I blame having the camera in such close proximity to my face being the reason for my ugly mug!)

For the main meal we chose Bife Vazia Trindade (Steak in a thick onion sauce) topped with a fried egg. (9.70 euros).

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We chose for the steak to be medium but it came a little underdone, for us it was fine but others may want it "Bem Passado" - well done.

The wine we chose was Adega Vila - the house red at 4.95 euros - bot of us were driving so it didn't matter if we left some at the end. I hate paying for an expensive bottle and leaving some knowing I have to drive.

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For dessert we had Pudim Flan (1.75 euros):

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...which was okay but a little on the small side.

And to finish off we shared a drink with restaurant manager Ricardo Ferreira who was a gracious host:

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After which we had a couple of bicas and settled the bill which in total came to 41.75 euros plus a 2 euro tip.

A few notes made at the time...

Trindade is a large open plan restaurant though with seperate dining rooms for smokers. The walls are decorated with original medieval tiles and it has a high vaulted ceiling. As the night progresses it does become noisy and animated - we arrived at 7.30 and by eight there was a large queue of diners waiting to be seated.

The wine was nothing special, reflected in the price but with us driving it was good for a glass or two.

There isn't much cigarette smoke due to the high ceilings and seperate areas though by about nine it was becoming a little smoky.

So to sum up then with a quick tally out of ten:

Surroundings 9
Ambience 6.5
Company 10
Wine 4
Starter 7
Main 8
Dessert 5
Service 7

As a tourist restaurant it is perfect for the range of food and the decoration of the interior, however for those a little more daring or locals like ourselves there are smaller cheaper places to go just without the history. I think this makes a good locale for a large group or party, but suffers with lack of intimacy.

But I do like, and always take friends to eat here.

Matt

CASA DOS PASSARINHOS review.

Today was the second reunion of the recently formed "Lisbon Dining Club" and I'm pleased to say that membership has now doubled to four. Okay so Lobo and I took our spouses and they didn't exactly need arms twisting behind backs but you have to be cautious meeting persons unknown from the internet, but Lizzy (my wife) though Lobo had looked trustworthy from the previous report so had no qualms in joining us.

Casa dos Passarinhos can be found at the following address:

Rua Silva Carvalho, 195 - 1250-250, Lisboa (Tel 213 882 346).

Although it is not within the so called tourist centre it can be easily reached on foot from Amoreira shopping centre (5 mins) or from Campo d'Ourique (10 minutes). To get there from downtown it is probably easiest to catch a cab. Anyway, I ended up driving to Amoreiras and using their underground car park - which is too low for my Landrover and I ended up scraping the roof bars and tearing out the aerial! Lob met us and we were soon at the front door:

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The restaurant is comprised of two dining rooms, a smaller one by the bar and the lower one which is larger:

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(As you can see we arrived early at 7.30 ish as Friday nights many of the tables were pre booked)

I lingered at the extensive wine cabinet:

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Which is next to the open plan kitchen area upstairs:

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The girls were considering the menu whilst Lobo posed for photos:

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(One thing you will encounter in many places is no matter the amount of people at the table you will only be provided one menu. Ask for more - and here they have an English version if needed.)

Wine has a habit of breaking the ice and conversation was soon flowing between the girls:

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Whilst Lobo and I toasted the 2nd night of the dining club:

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"Cheers Lobo" The wine we had was Requengos Doc red from the Alentejo at 5.50 E

We started with prawns cooked in a butter garlic and picante sauce:

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Which was extremely nice. We were unsure of the main dishes and so the waiter brought a selection of fresh fish to the table for us to select from and we decided on the bream (Dourada grelhada):

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Which was served with boiled potatoes, carrots and turnip greens:

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We shared this 1 serving easily between the four of us and it was a meal in itself:

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The fish was extremely tender and light with a fresh taste, a squeeze of lemon juice drizzled over the top perfect. A slurp of wine and then in the interests of providing you the reader with the best information we order a second main meal

Secrets of the Black Pig and I'd wanted to try this for a while just to make sure it wasn't really deep fried testicles:

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What it in fact is are thinly sliced boneless cutlets from the back of the pig. (And I'll let Lobo talk about why the Black Pig is so special). I'm not a great pork fan but this was tender grilled and full of flavour, not at all salty as I'd feared it might be. Lizzy doesn't eat meat so we shared this one serving between three. On it's own with a side salad it would have been enough for a light lunch between us.

Desert consisted of - tarte Gelado bolacha (Frozen ice cream and biscuit tart):

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Two portions of Arroz doce (cold sweet rice pudding with cinamon):

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And chocolate mousse for me:

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(I had been scibbling on the paper table cloth and in my enthusiasm made a bit of a mess...)

So as we ate our puddings:

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We discussed the meal and compared it to our last outing to Trindade. And then we had coffee with the manager, Antonio Almeida and thanked him for his attention:

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In fact he told us a little of the restaurant's history - that it had been functioning since the 1920s and he had taken it over in the eighties and expanded it to the size it is now.

As I paid we were served complimentary glasses of Moscatel wine which wasn't a perk but served free to everybody.

So in total the bill came to 76 euros including tip and can be broken down thus:

Starters - bread cheese olives etc: 5.60E

Seafood - 9 E

Fish - 29.50 E (Although seemingly expensive this is per kilo which was 2 large fish including the vegetables)

Meat - 9 E

Wine - 5.50 E plus another 3.75 for a half bottle of Borba

Dessert 8.40 E

Coffee 2.60 E

A few notes made at the time:

The restaurant is comprised of 2 dining rooms which are nicely furnished and decorated in a traditional style with tiled walls. There is an open plan kitchen as you enter with the fish and meats displayed with a large wine cabinet to salivate over. There are No non smoking areas but I didn't notice the smell of smoke even as the place filled up. I advise arriving before 8pm especially on the weekend so not to wait for a table. Immediate parking outside is difficult though there are large carparks nearby.

In comparison with Trindade this is a less touristy restaurant more cosy and with more locals from that area eating. The mix of diners was both young and old and lively conversations circulated the room.

The service was good and two things I thought stood out was the waiter bringing us the fish and when we changed wine (1 bottle not enough for 4 so we ordered an extra 1/2 bottle) new glasses were provided.

It is a good idea to ask for 2 different main meals to be served one after the other as we did thus giving a contrast of flavours.

So to tally up (out of ten):

Surroundings - 7.5
Ambience - 7
Company - 10
Wine - 7
Starter - 8
Main - 9
Dessert - 8
Service - 8

Give this a big thumbs up for value: we paid less than 20 euros each, and without the prawns to start or puddings (which usually I don't eat but I'll make an exception for the Lisbon dining club) one could eat for a lot less. In fact the bream was enough to serve the four without the pork afterwards.

My only criticism (and it is only small) is that perhaps too many tables were in the lower dining room and that space is a little cramped. In terms of what a normal tourist would want afterwards it is a cab ride away from downtown or Bairo Alto, but for those prepared to take a trip and enjoy good company in nice surroundings (with excellent food) this is perfect. I for one will be returning...

ADEGA DAS GRAVATAS review.

Sunday 9th April 2006 marks an important date in the history of the recently formed “Lisbon Dining Club.” Following on from two previous succesful evenings where the membership grew from two to four, (with the addition of Elisabete and Gertrude) we were able to welcome our first foreign members, Patrick and Les from San Diego, California. Having spoken with Patrick on the phone, (so both were asured to some small extent that neither of us were crazed axe murderers) we arranged to meet at Cais do Sodre Metro Station. To get there of course I took the ferry across the Tagus river:

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And as always lapped up the best view of Lisbon city:
Towards Alfama:

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And Castelo St. Jorge:

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‘I’ll be wearing my New York Yankee's cap.’ I told him, and he told me to look out for a tall skinny guy with a goatee. Knowing that there aren't many tall skinny portuguese men with Goatees I felt assured I'd recognise Patrick easily. However the NY emblem has become such a watered down trademark that seemingly everyone owns a Yankees cap, without knowing a thing about baseball or the fact that the interlocked symbol was designed by Tiffany. (Of course I knew both facts having been to the house that Ruth built…) So having probably called out to a few hundred Portuguese Yankee cap wearing people who weren’t me – ‘Hi, I’m Patrick.' - ‘Como?’ with odd looks we eventually hooked up and delved down into the darkened tunnels of Lisbon’s Metro system.

Adega Das Gravatas can be found at the following address:

Trav. do Pregoeiro, 15 - Carnide, Lisboa (Tel 21 714 36 22).

I can assure you that unless with someone who knows the area, or better still João and I you will never find this popular restaurant. The nearest stop is Carnide on the blue line, one stop north from Colegio Militar/Luz. A pleasant walk through the old town square which has retained its 19th century buildings and intimate streets leads you there and as João said to me in some ways it is a little like Alfama though without the hills.

Here are Les and Patrick trying to look inconspicuous:

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After a few minutes in which Lobo talked a little of the area’s history we stopped for photo opp’s at the restaurant’s entrance:

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(From left to right - Les, Patrick, Gertrude and Lobo.)

On entering you pass through a small coffee shop area, then into the smaller dining room which houses a considerable wine cellar and open plan kitchen. Lobo had previously booked a table for six (unfortunately Elisabete couldn't come) so we were seated in the larger dining room:

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Adega das Gravatas roughly translated means “Wine Cellar of ties.” and you have to look up as you are seated:

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It is estimated that there are over 1500 different ties which have been donated by patrons, some famous, some not:

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We arrived early at 7.15 ish and this appears an excellent time to arrive unless you make a prior reservation. Lobo and his wife discuss our guests in Portuguese so they couldn’t understand what was being said about them:

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Whilst Patrick was convinced to eat the Octopus salad as a starter:

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The starters consisted of olives garlic and parsley drizzled in olive oil, fava bean salad, large prawns, the octopus salad and the usual suspects of bread rolls, butter, cheese and pate. Important as the food was more so was the wine and we chose a Periquita 2003:

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Which was served at a nice temperature giving it a smooth texture with a very fruity flavour. Of course much toasting took place as we celebrated the third dining club evening. ‘Cheers Lobo!’:

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Instead of each ordering a main meal Lobo ordered four different dishes comprising of – Açorda das Gambas, (Alentejanan bread stew with prawns):

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Bacalhau asada, (Codfish grilled over charcoal) which came with small jacketed potatoes and turnip greens in a hot olive oil and garlic dressing:

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Plumas de Porco preto (Black pig cutlets) grilled over charcoal served with chips rice and a braized red green and yellow pepper salad:

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And Olho de beef (type of steak) again charcoal grilled served with the same accompaniments:

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This is med - rarely cooked so to lock in the flavour and moisture.

Lobo did a great job in serving us:

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As we talked and ate (and perhaps the alcohol began warming my veins) I realised that Les who was sat to my right was in fact a dead ringer for Ernest Hemingway, one of my favourite authors:

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With another bottle of Periquita so we went onto deserts which consisted of Quente e frio (hot and cold chocolate pie?)

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and Sericaia

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which is very sweet drizzled in plum syrup/treacle and sprinkled with cinnamon. After bicas, essential so we didn’t all fall asleep at the table I presented a tie to Les so he could offer it to the restaurant manager:

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And likewise Lobo did the same for Patrick:

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In fact Lobo’s was quite horrendous with its paisley print but I think Patrick liked it so much he thought to take it back to the states:

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And when Les put mine on he assumed even more an air of Hemingway:

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Ties were offered to the manager in turn:

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and

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we thanked the manager, Luís CALEIRO for his fine hospitality:

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And likewise with the Patrick handshake:

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Obviously so stunned by the fact that two tourists from San Diego had even found his restaurant he asked Patrick:

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and Les:

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to sign the ties. I wanted assurances that he would indeed hang them up and insisted he would though I was suspicious that he would want to keep and wear that which had belonged to Lobo!

So in total the bill came to 99.90 euros including tip but between us we stumped up an extra five and it can be broken down thus:

Açorda – 10 E
Bacalhau – 10 E
Olho bife – 9.50 E
Plumas – 9.60 E
2 bottles Periquita – 18.60 E
Olives – 2 E
Fava bean salad – 3 E
Octopus – 4.95 E
Prawns – 10.50 E
3 x Quente e frio – 6.90 E
2 x Sericaia – 5.40 E
Water, bread butter coffees etc make up the rest.

So an incredible meal at 20 euros a head – indeed could have been less without the prawns and a second bottle of wine.

A few notes made at the time:

The restaurant is comprised of 1 large open plan dining room and a smaller dining area though I felt the larger one to be better as the smaller was squeezed between the toilets and kitchen. The larger dining room has a vaulted ceiling and beams from where the 1500 ties hang. Tables are spilt into groups and this is not an intimate place but as Les said it is authentic, the only foreign voices were ours and conversations circulate and you feel you are a part of the fun. I think being a Sunday and close to a church one mass had finished many families came here for dinner. The large room in which we were felt airy and spacious and though there is no division of smoking non smoking not once did I notice the smell of cigarettes. Like many Portuguese restaurants the kitchen is open plan and there are large displays of the meat and fish which rapidly decline so again another good reason to arrive early. I wouldn't worry about parking but take the metro as previously discussed.

This is not a tourists restaurant and therefore is perfect in my opinion. The food served is in large portions for a very resonable price and on this night the clientele was mostly families from the local área.

Service was excellent, and the waitress very knowledgable about the fish and meat and spoke English and smiled politely at my poor Portuguese! The wine was served at the right temperature and you will always be allowed to taste the wine before accepting it.

So to tally up (out of ten): voted for by all of us…

Surroundings - 8
Ambience - 8
Company - 10
Wine – 8.5
Starter - 9
Main – 9 (with Patrick and Les giving the Porco Preto 10 and I have to agree)
Dessert - 8
Service - 10

In terms of value for money this was unequalled in my opinion - we paid 20 euros each, and that included two excellent bottles of red wine. Lobo stated that each dining club night gets better in terms of quantity quality and value for money and I heartily agree: I love trying out new places but this (for a great dinner) hás become my favourite so far and I will understand should those who follow in Patrick and Les’s footsteps want to come here with us.

So, in summing up Adega das Gravatas receives the Lisbon Dining Club's thumbs up award and I cannot commend it highly enough. Well off the beaten track but worth the effort. Just remember to bring an old tie and call Lobo and myself to accompany you there!

PÁTIO DA MEMÓRIA and the Lisbon Dining Club

Last night, May 27th 2006 saw 12 people attending the latest Lisbon Dining Club: Lobo and his wife Gertrude, Jen and Gregg - (Bailey), Nancy and Mayer (sp?), Cindy and Jason, Vítor and Sofia and of course Lizzy and I. Unfortunately as documented on the thread Lyn and her partner were unable to make it and we hope that she is able to meet us for at least a coffee before heading back home. With such a large group there had been prolonged preparations, emails bounced between us and telephone calls made, photos exchanged and despite the fact that only four of us knew each other we managed to all meet up in Belém at the arranged time. In fact I barely needed to wear my Yankees cap once Jen and Greg had joined us.

Pátio da Memórias can be found at Calçada da Memória, 57-A, 1300 – 394 Lisbon. (Tel 21 364 44 51). It is approximately five minutes walk from the meeting place and on a very warm Lisbon evening our group strolled up the hill all the time getting to know each other.

The first stop was to photograph a very nicely presented house en route:

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Which displayed very nice traditional blue tiled panels. Halfway up the hill is “Igreja da Memória” which was a fine location to take a group photograph.

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From left to right: Gertrude and João (lobo Mau), Jason and Cindy, Mayer and Nancy, Greg and Jen (Bailey), Lizzy and Sofia and Vítor. This church is the burial place of Marques de Pombal who was responsible for the modern appearance of downtown Lisbon following the great quake in 1755. (Lobo can give you a better description than I.)

From there it was just a couple of minutes more and we arrived at about 7.30pm and sat down:

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(Mayer, Jason and Cindy)

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(Lizzy and Nancy)

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(Jen and Greg)

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(João and Gertrude)

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(Vítor and Sofia)

Of course once the Sangria was brought to the table the party atmosphere begun:

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and

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Starters consisted of octopus salad, pigs ear salad, tuna pate, olives and the usual suspects of bread cheese and butter etc. A nice extra was small chouriço sausages braized over aguardente. Everyone tucked in and no one was afraid to try the dishes. I toasted João for his successful organisation:

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The first main course was Açorda da Gambas – bread stew with prawns:

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A traditional dish from the Alentejo originally made with stale bread, it was considered as a poor man’s dish using ingredients easily to hand. So it is made with bread, garlic, coriander, and prawns cooked in boiling water. 2 raw eggs are added and once at the table, the waiter, (or manager, Sr Jaime in this instance) will mix it all together giving it a thick almost glutinous consistency: it has strong flavours from the garlic and coriander.

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(Mayer looks on with worried look on his face, perhaps having read about my food poisoning in Porto.)

The second main course was turkey breasts in a cream and butter sauce with sliced mushrooms, served with chips (fries) and white rice:

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And of course all the time was more red wine Sangria being brought to the table keeping everybody happy and talking:

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I was sat opposite Jen and Gregg and they certainly appeared to be enjoying the evening:

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In fact conversation did not stop and got louder the more was drunk and bearing in mind we were all virtually strangers at the start by mid way it was like we had known each other for ages. Obviously that is the “Fodors” effect.

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Deserts were chosen individually and included such delights as Pineapple Mousse, Sweet Rice Pudding, Biscuit cake, Chocolate cake etc. I’d lost count of the number of jars of Sangria we had consumed by this point but it was a few and I heard many positive comments on how good it was. Our table was in front of the main performance area situated in front of the fake doorway: the whole interior imitates an old Lisbon pátio from Alafama, hence the feeling that you are sitting outside:

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The rules of Fado dictate that the audience is quiet, and we sat listening to “Portuguese Blues” – A fado trio consists of the guitarra:

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Which hás a very metallic sound owing to the plectrums on the player’s fingers – in this instance José Manuel Castro. The acoustic guitar (viola) was played by Alex Ricardo:

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And whilst four different singers took the “stage” the main fadista was Sofia Gloria:

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The biggest cheer of the evening came at the rendition of Cheira Bem, Cheira Lisboa (Smells good, smells like Lisbon), which stirs the passion in any Lisbon resident. It seemed the whole dining room was singing along, including our guests! And all the time in the background was more of that Sangria being drunk, and Sr Jaime left two bottles of Port at the table which were soon emptied. And I could have listened all night to the Fado which is best heard in small intimate places like this as opposed to concert halls. But the evening had to end at some time and with both Cindy and Jason and Nancy and Mayer flying back home the next day, after coffees we settled the bill which in total came to 330 euros, 27.50 per person. (Is that right Lobo?) which included everything, drinks, Port, tips and all. Foregoing the offer of karoake we left as a group sometime around midnight and strolled down to Belém proper where we each departed in different directions. Goodbyes were said and hugs and kisses given, contacts exchanged and it was farewell to all our guests and new friends. For some it was the start of their holidays and for some the end: whichever it was I think we all had a good time and received good value for money. At a Fado house in Bairo Alto you would maybe have heard better fado, eaten better food but will have paid a lot lot more, and the atmosphere would have been more serious than was here – it was a perfect place to host a group keen to talk as we were.

I didn’t take as many photos as usual, there was so much conversation going round the table that I kept forgetting and my note taking was not as detailed so I’ll hope you’ll excuse me that fact but I’ll add a few more comments tomorrow morning. But to wrap up this post I hope that Cindy and Jason and Nancy and Mayer arrived home safely and want to wish Jen and Greg a good holiday as they continue their grand tour of Portugal.

Pátio da Memórias is a hard one to call: it's far enough off the beaten track to be un-touristy, (esp with it's small subtle entrance) and yet with the fado performances the manager says that tourists do come in - in fact a group of Japanese visited recently and joined in the fado. Other than us it was just locals and so one doesn't feel like eating downtown.

As part of the set group menu the starters in addition to the bread etc comprised of three different dishes, the pigs ear salad, octopus salad and chouriço. The main meals were large, (3 servings of each) and sadly much was left over. (As João said, next time we'll take tupperware containers...)

The service was good with the manager Jaime dealing with us personally. And the fado was enjoyable and sung with a passion, especially when everyone joined in. And for a scratch trio, (the viola player was drafted in at the last minute), they were tight. (Is that a musicla term?)

To be honest I have eaten better food, (see the review of Adega das Gravatas), but in terms of our group the location was perfect. The sangria and bottles of water were endless, and 2 bottles of port were left with us to finish.

So to tally up (out of ten):

Surroundings - 8
Ambience - 8
Company - 10
Drinks – 8
Starter - 8
Main – 7.5
Dessert - 7.5
Service - 9

(Just my opinion, please feel free any of you who were present to add your own summations.)

I think that with the fado this restaurant is perfect for a group such as ours - if alone or with just one couple I'd perhaps choose somewhere else, especially if the guests are Portuguese. But for a flavour of Lisbon's musical tradition this was just right. Our guests can now tick off a nice meal and a fado performance.

So now we better start preparing for Fado in the castle and Barb on Friday night...

L.D.C, the Alfama and Dulce Pontes.

Barbara (Barb65) and her husband Jim became official members of the Lisbon Dining Club last night, (June 2nd 2006) - welcome both of you. Following on from last weekend’s success this latest L.D.C was something a little different as I had secured 6 tickets in advance to the opening concert of Fado at the Castle, a séries of outdoor performances throughout June within Castelo Stº Jorge and we were priveleged to witness a superb concert by Dulce Pontes – but more about that later.

There was no need for my to wear my old Yankees cap this time out, (and in fact I should make enquiries about where are guests are from – perhaps Red Sox fans would see me and go elsewhere ) for João and his wife Gertrude had already met them under the archway at the top of Praça do Commercio.

As well as the meal we wanted to take Barbara and Jim through the Alfama, and they wanted to see whereabouts was the Fado museum en route. So we passed by Campo das Cebolas, with its old buildings and the famous Casa dos Bicos. From there it was a short walk to the Fado museum and then we began winding our way up through the narrow cobbled streets of Alfama. At this time of year everyone is getting ready for Festa Stº António and all of the buildings are decorated with coloured bunting. The sound of fado drifts from doorways and pleasant smells of sardines on the grill fill your noses. It must be noted that at present there is a lot of restoration work underway within Alfama and many building frontages are obscurred by scaffolding. However it is a charming area, washing is hung below windows, you pass by small local restaurants and cafés, and people smile as you pass by – “Boa Tarde”, “Tudo Bem?” you will hear.

After quite a climb which took me back to preparing for Kilimanjaro I took a group photo (less me) with a view to the Tagus:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/jim1.jpg

(Left to right – Jim, Barbara, Lizzy, João and Gertrude.)

It certainly worked up an appetite!

Tonight was somewhat different in that we decided to choose a place to eat as we walked to the castle, and we decided upon Frei Papinhas Restaurante – Bar.

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FREI PAPINHAS can be found at Rua de S. Tomé, 13, Alfama, 1100 – 561 Lisboa. (Tel. 21 886 6471). It seemed to be very popular and was almost full when we entered so I would suggest at the weekend perhaps arrive at 7.30 ish in order to be seated immediately.

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(Lizzy hás just finished saying – “Will you stop taking my bloody photo!”)

and

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As João jokes with Barbara and Jim.

For starters we had 2 servings of Amêijoas a Bulhão Pato:

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Followed by three servings of grilled Sardines:

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Barbara needed no prompting and proved to be a real pro at filleting the sardines which are filled with tiny bones:

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In fact we were all so impressed we passed all of her plates to her and that was her job for the rest of the evening .

Cheers Lobo, I couldn’t forget the now familiar Lisbon Dining Club toast!

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Okay Jim what wine do you want next?

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In fact we shared two bottles, 1 “Vinho Verde” a chilled sparkling wine perfect with the fish and later a bottle of my favourite Periquita with the grilled cutlets of which we had three servings again.

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It’s proved a good way of sampling different dishes and we always start with the fish and then move on to the meat. “How am I going to fit all that in?” Barbara thinks…

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I was getting a little concerned for the hour was getting late and the concert started at ten so we skipped dessert and just had coffees – the bill came to 15 euros per person inclunding wines and tip which we thought to be excellent value for money. The staff were very attentive but again as the place filled to the brim so the service slowed a little.

The castle was only five minutes walk up fairly steep cobbled streets and no matter that we were late the concert had not yet started. It was held in a large courtyard in which wild pine trees grow, and a fearsome statue of Saint George stands. Behind us was a wonderful view over the Alfama, downtown and Ponte 25 de Abril all light up. Christo Rei on the opposite side of the river looked out over Lisbon and the stars were bright. A cresent moon gave a little light and bats flitted from the trees.

Dulce Pontes mixed a combination of musical styles and she sang beautifully combining tracks from her latest album which has Galizan influences, using typical instruments from that area, percussion and drums, a large string section with violins, cellos and double bass and various guitars, both classical and the Portuguese Guitarra. Dulce is a great performer and encourages the crowd to join in, clapping and singing and for me the highlight of the first set was her fado renditions with just the 2 guitars. At the end of the second set she invited the crowd to close in around her as she sang out her final song.

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(The image is a little dark, my apologies)

With the excellent accompaniment of her backing band:

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And receiving our appreciation and applause she left into the darkness of the castle as she had appeared and the concert was over.

Both Barbara and Jim had enjoyed it - for Lizzy and myself it was a real treat to see Dulce in this excellent form. An absolute pleasure and should you ever get the chance to see her live then make sure you do. Also have a look at her website:

http://dulcepontes.net/site.php?lng=en

And so we wound our way down from the castle stopping off at the statue of Stº António himself where Barbara and Jim posed under the old streetlamps:

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The evening itself finished sitting at a table in Chiado at the famous coffee shop “Café Brasileira” watching late night people walk past and take note Tamaka, it is just opposite your appartment. We sat next to the statue of Fernando Pessoa – this coffee shop was well patronised by the intellectual crowd and obviously we kept up that tradition last night

Barbara and Jim were most excellent company and it was a true pleasure to host them this evening – obviously it was more than just the meal itself but in total the dinner and concert tickets came to 25 euros per person and was unbelievable value for money. I guess had it rained then the outside performance would have not been as enjoyable but when everything comes together right as it did last night then it was perfect.

Barbara and Jim – thanks for being part of it!

STº ANTONIO, ALFAMA AND THE L.D.C.

Festa Stº Antonio is celebrated on the night of June 12th each year and thus it is an annual event for Lizzy and I: dinner of grilled sardines in the lower Alfama and then we stroll up to the castle past Cathedral Se and then work our way down through the claustrophobic but joyous alleyways of Alfama itself. This year we had the pleasure of hosting Lily and her husband John from Georgia, Lobo (João) and his wife Gertrude and two of our long time Portuguese friends, Jorge and Lucinda.

We met up in the now usual place underneath the Triumph arch at the top of Praça do Commercio and Lily had no trouble recognising me from past reports. After introductions and a some photo opportunities so we begun walking to Alfama via Campo das Cebolas which is where we decided to eat. This whole area is dedicated to eating al fresco: the roads are closed to vehicles and tables line the streets: there were eight of us to sit and we chose a table outside of a Chinese restaurant of all places:

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Jorge and Lucinda.

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Lizzy and Gertrude – I think Jorge is exagerating about the size of something: my wife obviously doesn’t believe him And neither do Lily and John…

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And of course not forgetting João and Gertrude.

“Cheers Lobo!” as we tuck into the red wine Sangria:

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“À saúde.”

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“À saúde.”

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Obviously this night isn’t a traditional L.D.C evening - Stº António is about eating sardines so we started with 24 between us…

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As Lily gets to grips with the bones:

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In fact Lily had the biggest sardines of the lot:

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(Just joking, that was the second course of ribs.)

We were sat a couple of tables away from the barbeque and as the wind changed direction so this fragrant smoke blew across us. Up and down the street hundreds of people ate, music played out and the smoke blew across us: and the night was fine and warm and what a welcome to Portugal for Lily and John.

I think it was all getting too much for him and at one stage he was asleep…

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but coffees soon revived him for the long mad walk ahead:

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The bill came to 30 euros per couple which included the sardines, the ribs, boiled potatoes and side salads with grilled green peppers, I’ve forgotten how many jars of Sangria and the coffee. Really the food was only okay but on a night like this you are served quickly and everyone eats more or less the same wherever you go. And there isn’t a great choice especially when you are eight persons: you just grab the first available table and it pays to arrive early. In fact as we got up there were already people slipping into our seats just vacated and arguing over who got there first.

As the roads are closed off you can walk up to the castle without fear of cars or trams or buses descending the winding streets and so with many thousands of others we made our way slowly up to the castle. En route we visited the Roman ruins which are a hidden gem and at night were lit up: there is a dedicated museum too which obviously was closed – it is my intention to do a report on it soon as it really is a secret but worth seeking out. By the statue of Stº Antonio, and in front of the church of the same name candles are lit and prayers offered to the saint:

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Saint António it is said was somewhat of a ladies man, a flirt – and nowadays he is venerated as a protector of lovers. Should you wish for a husband or wife it is to him you pray or so it is said: in fact June 12th is the day when ladies propose to men rather than the more traditional way.

The tradition is to throw a coin so it lands in the open pages of his bible to bring you luck - Lily had a go but I think her dollar coin took someone's eye out on the other side of the statue and we quickly lost ourselves in the crowd

Another tradition is that those in love purchase a potted manjerico plant, (a basil like herb) with a paper carnation inserted. I tis said that you cannot smell the leaves directly or the plant will die but have to rub them with your fingers and then smell your hand: I actually think this is only to disguise the strong smell of sardines from dinner.

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Each one has a love poem attached and so John did the romantic thing and presented one to Lily and everyone went “ah…” yet he couldn’t read the text so Lizzy translated for him. Whereas Lizzy and I, having been married so long quickly passed them by

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Upon reaching the castle, via the art school district, one finds the gates to be closed but it seems traditional to go right up to them as if they will magically open just for you:

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And despite the fact of not being able to enter Lily was still smiling:

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There are so many street bars selling beer and sangria that you never go thirsty and many enterprising teens sell cans out of dustbins full of ice. Of course with so much liquid inside you you may want to use the toilet and close by the castle gates are the oldest conveniences in Lisbon:

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Note what the little boy is doing, and it is just a urinal against the wall big enough for three blokes standing together: like the castle gates tonight it was closed but that didn’t prevent many people from relieving themselves there anyway!

Once away from the urinals I managed a quick group photo which was difficult in the crowds:

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(From left to right: João, Gertrude, Lily, John, Lizzy, Lucinda and Jorge crouching and just whose is that mystery hand?)

Despite the party atmosphere and millions of people in the street having fun life still goes on for some and here is a local hanging out her washing above the masses:

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And I wasn’t the only one photographing the lamps:

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How did your’s come out John?

Down from the castle to the lookout point ‘Portas do Sol’ which again is closed, presumably so a thousand drunk revellers don't fall lemming like to their death, we descend the staircase at Rua Noberta de Araújo and usually this is a beautiful way to enter the lower area of Alfama. However tonight it was heaving; was claustrophobic and noisy with electronic music pumping from speakers, you were just carried down almost without your feet touching the ground:

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and

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(BTW it’s not that I’m taller than anyone else, I just held the camera aloft firing away and hoping that one shot would come out okay.)

And reaching the end of this passageway we hit the nearest bar for a round of well deserved beers and in fact Lobo’s didn’t even touch the sides!

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Lily was relieved to see that John was okay – they’d arrived in the morning had a few hours sleep in the hotel and then met us - brave people they were:

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Even at this late hour the barbeques were still smoking away and there was no end of people eating:

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Sardines and ribs and other delicious meats:

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In fact for those of you from New York it is not unlike the Saint Gennero festival in Little Italy but whereas that is just one long street, (from what I remember of my last trip over in September) Stº Antonio engulfs what seems to be most of Lisbon.

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Dancing and singing:

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Cheering and shouting and that was just us…

I really got to talk with Lily and John when the volume allowed it and they were a wonderful couple, enthusiastic and excited to be in Lisbon at last. It seems they have a good holiday ahead of them and I cannot think of a better way to start than Festa do Stº António. Granted the food was not on the level of Gravatas or the others places in which we have eaten, and the Sangria wasn’t as strong as I’ve had before, but tonight wasn’t about the food, it was about Lisbon celebrating. And on this night our city is at its best - and the people really make an effort to enjoy themselves. I wouldn't advise bringing young children along, (although we have taken our eldest daughter in the past) or for elderly or infirm people to walk the Alfama in the crowds because it is hot and cramped, claustrophobic and many times does one have to shove their way through the people but it is all good natured fun.

So no restaurant review, no summing up on the food or service – just a slow walk back to Praça Do Commerçio late at night and still behind us everybody celebrated on into the morning hours. We ended up having to catch the 1.40 am ferry back to Cascilhas and so bade everyone farewell and what a wonderful night it had been. But boy were my legs aching after all that walking up and down the narrow passages of Alfama!

Matt

This is wonderful, Matt! Thanks for all this information. Too bad we are not visiting Lisbon this year as we did last year or we would most certainly attend one of the dinners. This year it is Italy.

Matt.

We are counting the days. The only problem is that by the time we arrive there will be so many good places, how can we decide?

Sherry

Matt I think I preferred our slow walk up to the Castle but it looks like lots of fun and I can smell those sardines!

Thanks for explaining those plants. Now I understand some of the decorations as well as those plants I have seen as table decor in restaurants.

Jim is still away on business but he will get your photos soon. Thanks.

Barb

NAMAKA, TIES AND FESTA SÃO JOÃO

Last Friday Namaka, (AKA Gina) her husband Robert and their two children became the latest official members of the Lisbon Dining Club, joining us for a meal at Adega das Gravatas which you will be familiar with from a previous night out with Les and Patrick from San Diego. It had been prearranged to meet at Baixa Chiado Metro Station which in hindsight was a mistake, especially at the time we did, 7.00 pm because it was the end of the rush hour and with two seperate railway lines and no available phone communications finding one another took a little time. However Gina assured me they would recognise me from previous L.D.C reports - however it was in fact Robert I recognised first from Gina’s description and I must admit I am now pretty adept at spotting tall Americans within a crowd.

After a riding the metro from downtown across town we met João and his wife Gertrude at Carnide Metro station and took a short walk to the restaurant: it was windy and cold in contrast to the weather in Costa and I was beginning to regret not wearing a jacket. The old centre of Carnide was decorated for the Festa São João and people were just beginning to gather by the bandstand: later that night returning through the square we would squeeze through a large crowd dancing and cheering.

We were shown to our table by Luís CALEIRO who recognised us from the last time and sat us directly beneath the ties we had presented him. I thought they had been pretty ghastly but there are some truly horrendous ties hanging from the beams - it provides some entertainment trying to spot which is the worst.

Again we were sat by 8.00 pm:

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and it is a good idea to arrive early - shortly after we arrived there were very few tables free. As with each meal thus far conversation was free and unforced, and it is thanks to Fodors, (which has brought us together in the first place) that it really is like a meeting of old friends. Gina has been a resident on the threads for a long time and it is like being with family:

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(Gina with her son.)

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(Robert and their daughter)

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(And of course João and Gertrude).

Actually Gertrude took a shot of Lizzy and I but upon reviewing it I looked so awful that I didn’t wish to include it here L.O.L. Although those who have actually met me may well state that I am not that bad in the flesh: it is just that I am not photogenic.

When you sit you are confronted with various starters, the octopus salad, fava bean salad:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/nam5.jpg

Fresh prawns:

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However one should note that the prawns as a starter can be as expensive as a main course dish and as nice as they may be without care you can be tripling your bill without realising. Robert proved to be a prawn peeling expert:

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and a nice touch is that you are provided with wet wipes for your fingers before moving on.

“Cheers Lobo!” the now familiar L.D.C toast:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/nam8.jpg

Smile for the camera, “Á Saùde!”

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Much the same as the last time here we had the Acorda da Gambas – bread stew with prawns, and Plumas da Porco Preto which was an excellent option again. Robert went for the grilled Salmon:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/nam10.jpg

which came with the carrots, potatoes and shredded green beans. Whilst the younger guys shared a steak and many French fries with cokes – we had a couple of bottles of Periquita from José Maria Fonseca, and a few beers…

At the end of the meal Gertrude gave Robert one of João's old ties to present to the manager and it is lucky Lobo is pretty laid back and doesn’t like wearing ties to work:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/nam11.jpg

The bill, which included coffees, deserts (both ours and ice creams for Namaka’s children) came in at 140 euros, 20 euros a head per adult and ten each for the junior L.D.C members which was pretty good and true to the original L.D.C price regulations.

The zone surrounding the restaurant is very photogenic especially in the dusk with the old street lamps and we spent a few moments taking photographs in the area. Of course by the time we reached the town square the Festa São João was well underway:

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And Gina was so excited at seeing the Farturas van that she had to rush right up and buy a big bagful:

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Farturas are made from a thick donut dough deep fried and covered in sugar: it is rolled in a circular form and then lengths cut off and served: it usually works out a 1 euro per piece:

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Despite the fact of having just finished dinner nobody but your’s truly could resist and Gertrude was so desperate she went to eat João's as well!

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Actually it was such an unexpected treat for we had forgotton it was tonight the Festa would happen and eating farturas took Gina back to those long distant days as a child in the Lisbon area eating farturas at the seaside with her parents. Music playing in the background and couples dancing, the bright lights and bunting, farturas and laughter long into the night, another successful evening for us all:

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(Left to right: Namaka’s daughter, Gina, Namaka's son, Robert, Gertrude, João and Lizzy "Get that bloody camera outa my face" Fernandes Wilkinson.) Now I have to apologise to Gina’s children for in the intervening days I have forgotton their names and it is a sure enough reason for me to post L.D.C reports sooner…

And to finish off the evening a demonstration of Portuguese fast food – Pão com Chouriço:

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Notice the following: the real wood fire oven in the background, the freshly made bread dough, how she is rolling the chopped chouriço sausage into the dough. No deep fat friers, no fries or cokes or extra bacon and cheese, no ‘Supersize me’ options – if you want to eat more you just buy a second, or third…

Perhaps it was a little boring for the children but I think they enjoyed the food, and perhaps I am being rude calling them children, young adults is a better phrase. We really enjoyed talking with Gina who explained why her screen name is Namaka, (I’ll let her explain) and Robert – it turned out we had a little past history in common: thankyou for the gift by the way: I wore it with pride on the Sunday against Equador and will do so again on Saturday versus Portugal. It seems that they were having an exciting family holiday to say the least, (again should they wish to expand in their trip report I’ll let them do so) with Paris behind them and London ahead and a lot of enthusiasm for travelling – any time you come back this way be sure to give us a call and next time should he wish to come don’t forget your father, Gina! Thankyou for your excellent company and I hope you all enjoyed it as much as we did. And interestingly enough on the day they leave Sarasara takes over the apartment in Chiado so one hopes Namaka didn’t make too much of a mess! Speak soon guys and happy trails…

Now Lobo, other than names which I’ve forgotton is there anything I have missed?

Matt. Again. Thank you for a delightful report.

Sherry

While I am truly excited about going to the LDC outing planned for July 18 at Pateo da Memoria, I think I'm going to have to find a way to get to Adega das Gravatas on one of the other nights. If I can't get my travel companions to go, I may have to try it alone. These reports are killing me.

(And if you are not photogenic, Matt, who was that Indiana Jones fellow posing with a Masai elder in the picture you posted previously?)

SARASARA’S BELATED L.D.C REPORT.

As those of you whom have been with us for a while know, SaraSara joined us here in the Lisbon threads back in March this year: in fact I recall our first exchanges regarding Fátima and in personal emails she expresed some hesitancy at meeting up for dinner. And that is understandable, bearing in mind, (in addition to her husband Scott) she brought her three daughters, Margaret, Gillian and Grace along to the restaurant. However over the intervening months that bond of trust so became stronger and I’m sure having seen Gertrude and Elisabete joining in the various L.D.C events Sara realised Lobo and I weren’t crazed Internet psychopaths.

A phone call on the Sunday morning promised good things ahead, Sara’s voice was full of joy and laughter: whereas mine in contrast was ragged and raw from having spent the previous afternoon shouting at a television screen, getting drunk and cursing England’s loss on penalties to Portugal in the World Cup. Not to mention the pain inside my skull which only numerous paracetemols dulled.

Today’s L.D.C event was a special event as the younger diners almost outnumbered the (ahem) senior ones: my eldest daughter wanted to come to and thus Carolina becomes the youngest member at five years of age. And despite some reticence on her part by midway through the meal she had mustered up the courage to sit alongside Sara and her youngest daughter with whom she quickly made friends. But more of that later. Ignoring my own advice previously, (see NAMAKA, TIES AND FESTA SÃO JOÃO) we arranged to meet up by the ticket booth in Baixa Chiado metro station and being a Sunday night we did not encounter the crowds as previously with Namaka. I think Sara was pleased we had brought Carol and after introductions and many double kisses, (the tradition Portuguese way) we were presented with a “Goody Bag” from America full of gifts and thankyou again Sara and Scott for that unexpected gesture. And so down we dropped into the tunnels below old Lisboa and the metro took us north on the blue line to Carnide, about a fifteen minute ride.

Now, due to traffic problems into Lisbon we were already late and João, (Lobo Mau) and Gertrude were patiently awaiting us in Carnide’s small town square. There was an exchange of greetings, (and some light hearted ribbing about the previous night’s result - thankfully Sara’s family didn’t understand my Portuguese swear words…) and then we were off to Adega das Gravatas. Of course I took a group photo en route:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/sw1.jpg

(Left to right: me, (Wow, almost a first!) Carolina, Margaret, Scott, Grace, Gillian, Sara, Gertrude and João. Lizzy refused to be in front of the lens and I bowed to the combined pressure to be in shot…)

Now it must be noted that this report will contain less photos than usual and this is for a couple of reasons: many of the food shots would only be repetitions of those in previous reports and at some stage Carolina sneaked the camera from my possession and took pictures that were of interest to her…

We were greeted by the manager who recognised us immediately now and we were seated at a table he had reserved for us. We scanned the ceiling and pointed out ties the L.D.C had previously donated. The starters were excellent as usual consisting of octopus salad, fava bean salad, olives and bread, cheeses and all the other usual suspects. In fact there were more starters than we cared for and so we sent them back.

Sara was still to sample vinho do Porto so before the main meal she and Scott had a glass of Tawny each.

The main dishes we ordered were:

Plumas de Porco Preto x3 (With fries, white rice and a braized hot red and green pepper salad)
Bife da Vazia x2 (Steak well done with fries)
Grilled Tuna steak x1 (With boiled new potatoes and lightly steamed broccoli and carrots)
Dourada escalada x1 (As with the tuna)

and to accompany mineral water and my preferred José Maria Fonseca’s “Periquita”.

“Cheers!”

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/sw2.jpg

And Sara was really getting into the spirit of the Lisbon Dining Club:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/sw3.jpg

João keeps up a pretence of looking interested whilst we discuss my visit last year to New York and Yankee Stadium:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/sw4.jpg

Whilst Gertrude and Lizzy no doubt dissect the match from the night before:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/sw5.jpg

I think Scott has just seen the number of deserts we have ordered!

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/sw6.jpg

Whilst Gillian and Carolina become international friends….

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/sw7.jpg

Here Grace is modelling the tie which Scott will later present to the manager:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/sw8.jpg

We ordered a selection of deserts which included chocolate mousse, quente e frio, serecia, bolo do bolacha, chocolate cake and so on, more than enough for everyone to sample a little of everything and with the coffees so was the meal concluded: it was then that Sara admitted that they had to check in at some ridiculous hour for their London flight in the morning and likewise for Carolina it was a schoolday following and we made to leave… but not before Scott presented a tie to manager Luís CALEIRO for his collection;

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/sw9.jpg

The bill came to I think 150 euros, (I’ve looked everywhere but cannot find the receipt to confirm) for the ten of us which provided excellent value and without doubt the food was of its usual high standard: especially the Porco Preto which I can eat each time and never get bored of.

And thus we walked back to the metro station through Carnides town square, Gillian and Carolina hand in hand and talking away to each other - Carolina teaching Gillian how to count to ten in Portuguese!

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/sw10.jpg

And so to London the next day and what to do… Sara had said her girls had had enough of old castles and churches and so it was my suggestion to go on the London Eye, the great ferris Wheel over Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament - I hope the weather was good for you Sara, did you go on it in the end?

And by the way I hope I got all the names in the right order, please correct me if I’m mistaken.

And so another metro ride back to Baixa Chiado and again farewells: more hugs and kisses, handshakes and best wishes and more Internet friends who have gone from being virtual to actual: Sara and Scott, Margaret, Grace and Gillian it was a true pleasure to meet you all and we look forward to hooking up again some day. Think of us when you think of Portugal, old Lisboa and Plumas de Porco Preto, we’ll always be here, or there in your memories which will never fade. Happy trails.

Matt

Beautiful report as usual!

great report! Your children are all so beautiful!

Matt, I love it: "crazed internet psychopaths.

Enjoyable as always.

Sherry

Another great evening and report.

I like that it has become a family get together

Can't wait to return!
Barbara

Matt, I have been busy with girl scout camp for a week so I am just now reading your report. How wonderful it is! I would love so much to be back there right now! Your report is so well written and the pictures are great, except for the one of me that makes me look like a drunken pirate! I swear to you all that I was not drunk, I was just having a great time. I was especially pleased to see Gillian and Carolina getting along so wonderfully. We really do appreciate what wonderful hosts you and Jao and your wives were. We sincerely hope that we will meet again someday and hope that you know you are always welcome here in the USA.

Drunken Pirate

Sarasara

If you can, would you please email me with the details of your car rental?

Someone has just posted a horrible report about economycarrentals and since it is the first time they have posted, I really don't know how valid it is.

Thanks
ccsheen@zoominternet.net

Matt..your LDC reports and pics. are wonderful. Surely makes us want to get over there. Ruth and my planning is going well now that I am not tied to the TV so much! The LDC with Sara and family report was especially exciting to read..made my mouth water just to read what was on the menu. Have also posted some questions on the Lisbon part III site. Looking forward to meeting you and Lobo and family. Bob

BELEM, RAIN AND THE L.D.C.

The sky was full of a storm’s premonition – sun cutting through the grey to shine upon the old River Tagus:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/2-1.jpg

(On the right can just be made out Torre de Belem)

And upon leaving the ferry behind did I feel the first light drops of rain,

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/3-1.jpg

but I didn’t care for the early evening light was incredible and thunderclaps accompanied me through Belem’s gardens.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/4-1.jpg

Meeting point for tonight’s meal was the green cow lurking just outside McDonald’s but I happened across the group sheltering from the rain underneath the awning of a newspaper stand. (I’m sure the guy was trying to close up and was waiting impatiently for us to depart.)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/5-1.jpg

(Left to right: João, (Lobo), Jorge, (George), Isabel, Gertrude, Mindy, Jaclyn, Adam and Nikki.) – Perhaps dressed not expecting the weather to change.

So it was a short walk uphill to Pateo da Memorias, sheltering momentarily from the rain and catching enticing glimpses of Ponte 25 de Abril down through the side streets. You walk up past the Botanical gardens and it is a place that I keep meaning to visit but never do – perhaps now the school holidays are upon us.

Entering the restaurant we were greeted by Jaime, the owner and manager and once more had he laid out an expansive spread for us:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/6-1.jpg

The starters were the same as last time with pigs ear salad, octopus salad, olives and bread etc with the nice little chouriço sausages braized over aguardente. In fact everybody seemed not to be put off when told what the plates were, although I did feel sorry for Jaclyn who I feel was not as adventurous as her brother…

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/7-1.jpg

(Isabel and Mindy)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/8-1.jpg

(George and Jaclyn – a great shot this one, I managed to capture a rare smile )

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/9-1.jpg

(João and Nikki)

For some reason Adam didn’t appear – were you in the bathroom? and the self portrait I took of myself with Gertrude was so horrendous, (me, not Gertrude) that I daren’t upload it for fear of putting future meal go-ers off.

When booking the private fado nights at Pateo Jaime will arrange a menu with set main courses which everybody can share, and tonight it was the turn of Açorda das Gambas:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/10-1.jpg

And Arroz do Pato, duck with rice glazed with egg yolks and topped with slices of carrot and chouriço sausage:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/12-1.jpg

Drinks included red wine sangria and water – and as much sangria as one drinks there never comes the sensation of getting drunk – perhaps more wine next time?

I’m not sure what João and Nikki were talking of here:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/11-1.jpg

Perhaps we can have a sort of funny caption competition? I’ll start off –
João: “If you don’t like it you can alway be sick into this bowl.”
Nikki: “Okay. BLEUGHHHH.”

Now Isabel who was sat opposite me has obviously been studying Lizzie’s reactions to my camera’s presence…

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/13-1.jpg

However we ended up taking many photos each and I was warned not to publish any that turned out real bad as she’d only go ahead and upload images of me and you know how much I hate having my photo taken.

As the main meals were cleared away so the fado singing began and Nikki chose to sit down next to me: in the quiet moments we had some most excellent conversation regarding classical music, the moon landings and Yankee baseball, this was done out of earshot of João as I think it bores him a little. (Just wait till I take him to a game – then he’ll understand…)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/14-1.jpg

Deserts were made up of various choices from the cold cabinet – Bola do Bolacha, (biscuit cake) cheesecake, ice cream, chocolate cake and so on: I’m not really a pudding person so had the biscuit cake with a coffee.

The fado lasted much longer than on the last occasion and as it was only us left in the restaurant by the end, (not because of the singing I hasten to add) it really was a personal performance and the encore as Nikki has said elsewhere was “Cheira bem, Cheira Lisboa!” (Smells good, smells of Lisbon) in which everybody was singing:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/17.jpg

I got the impression talking with everyone that they really enjoyed the fado – in fact it is a pleasure to see it in this way where the atmosphere is less serious than a proper fado house, where one can join in and have a go should you be thus inclined. Actually João who mineswept all the untouched Ports was there at the end singing along… And following coffee I managed to talk some with Adam and Jaclyn and George who was keen to practise his Portuguese. (Though perhaps I was the wrong person with whom to try.)

Now owing to the fact that we were less in the group this time the bill came to 30 euros per person and although the fado performance offered good value for money I feel there is some justified criticism to be levelled at the food. The starters were fine but the Açorda was very poor with a chewy texture owing to the type of bread used. It was not as good as the last time, or indeed other restaurants in which we have eaten and I actually felt awkward that this was an introduction to Portuguese food as I myself was not impressed. But the duck rice was good and so to were the deserts. But I think that should we return then this set menu idea needs to be addressed: not everyone eats meat (as in the case of Lizzy) and thus would feel very let down with only the poor açorda to eat. Likewise others may not be that adventurous and as people have commented the idea of raw eggs going into a dish, (if you are not used to eating this way) can be somewhat off putting. I don’t think Jaclyn ate much if anything at all.

But, complaint aside it was an excellent evening and you can overlook shortcomings with the quality of the fado performance. Conversation was very interesting with so many backgrounds present round the table, and I’m always keen to hear a little after dinner politics should the subject be raised.

The internet is a great resource and once again Fodor’s has brought more people together – it so turned out none of us were crazed axe murderers which came as a relief and the enthusiasm for travel and experience shone. So thankyou everyone for coming, sorry that the food was not to the usual high standard but I sincerely hope you enjoyed the fado, execpt for the fact of Joãos drunken singing in the background

Take care and happy trails,

Matt

Matt, if you ever take Joao to a Yankees game, I insist on being notified so I can join you. I'll be wearing a Red Sox hat though.

I don't really care for baseball, so I will be the mediator.

Matt, thank you again.

Matt, it was all included!!! There was no point in leaving untouched Ports behind
And it's always a pleasure to listen from you. I was not bored by your talk at all. I even love you imitation of an hyena, which you fail to do this time.

Hey, I didn't get the hyena imitation?
I feel so left out (lol)!

And if you ever make it to a Yankee's game, I too would love to maybe make that trip to NY. Maybe since I couldn't talk my father into Lisbon, I could at least talk him into NY;as long as it included going home to Rhode Island.Plus, he is a die-hard Yankee's fan!

Many thanks for the delightful reports, wish these threads had been on this spring while I was in Lisbon.

How much fun it would be if fordorites in othere cities had the same idea and researches!

I echo JudyC's sentiment - "How much fun it would be if fordorites in othere cities had the same idea and researches!". Is there some fodorite out there in cyber space who would set up something similar for Madrid? To be totally selfish, Madrid is one of our next vacation destinations.

Matt...Ruth and I certainly enjoyed this LDC report and the great pictures..was sorry to hear the Acorda dos Gambas was not up to your expectations as I have told Ruth how wonderful it is...perhaps at our LDC event. Planning for trip is going well and we become more anxious each day to get on the way....see you soon, Bob

Hi Matt and Lobo, I'm from the UK and would
like to find out more about the Dining Club - it sounds fascinating . I'm curious as to when the next meet is planned.. do either of you have an email address/telephone number, so I can contact you directly?.

bests.

Hi Jay
The LDC is a non profit and non-governmental organization
How does it work?
The main purpose is to talk and share good food and wine. When there are Fodorite fellows in town willing to meet us (I've never understood why, but there are some), we arrange a meeting point, and after that we follow to a restaurant previously booked.
LDC already included diners in Trindade, Casa dos Passarinhos, Adega das Gravatas, Páteo da Memória (with Fado performace) and a place in Alfama that I don't remember the name. There are side activities like Dulce Pontes show in the Castle, Santo Antonio in Alfama, coffee in a Brazileira, drinks in Catacumbas bar and tea in Pavilhao Chinês.
The food is varied, but the most popular choices are Açorda de Gambas and Secrets of black pig, camel spit, saw dust, etc. The drinks include usually red wine and sangria.
When everybody is satisfied, we ask the bill and divide it according to the head count. The bill has been kept around 20 euros, except in Pateo where it was 27.5 euros. By the end we share emails, telephone numbers, hugs and kisses.

LDC scheduled events:

- 25 August - LDC with Bob (BYoung4u2) + Ruth + Frog (?) + boy friend (?)
- 21 September - LDC with David (dwsnyder) + Susan + Kenderina + Emilio - Páteo da Memória (?)
- from 8 to 12 October - cheese and wine in Leslie's (Imernal) appartment
- x>20 September - LDC with Sher

As you might understand, I don't post my telephone number here, but I'll be glad to send it by mail. My email is j1962@netcabo.pt , Matt's email is easily found in "Thinks do to in and around Lisbon" thread.

Camel spit? Sawdust? So that's what that stuff was.

Matt and Lobo

I am dying to join the LDC! As you may remember, I live in Salvador da Bahia, Brazil, and Lisbon is my gate in and out of Europe. I will be there on the evening of September 30 and, again, on November 10. Anything planned for those dates? I would love to join you!

Lobo/Matt...unfortunately we have had to make a major change in plans...while still stopping off in Spain on business we will be going on to Croatia. I want to thank both of you and other LDC members for all your help in designing our trip through Portugal...hopefully we will be able to make it there in the not too distant future. Best of luck to all of you. Bob and Ruth

Brazilnut, nothing planned for those dates, but we can change it easily

Byoung, don't worry. We are staying here, and so is Lisbon.
Matt, are you out there?? What about a private mini-LDC???

Lobo mau,

Any suggestions? In September, a friend of mine will be with me (another fiftiesh woman like me), also Brazilian.

We were thinking about going to Cantinho do Bem Estar - we love to eat there! But we welcome other suggestions, specially with good company!

We will be flying from Rome on Satuday, sept 30, and will stay overnight at the Hotel Olissippo Oriente, by Parque das Nações and the Airport (we are living early on Sunday, back to Salvador da Bahia).

LDC scheduled events:

- 21 September - LDC with David (dwsnyder) + Susan + Kenderina + Emilio
- 29 September - LDC with Brazilnut + friend (the 1st LDC to be held in Portuguese language) in "O Cantinho do Bem Estar"
- 9 or/and 10 October - cheese and wine party with Leslie + ?? + Judi + ?? in Leslie's (Imernal) appartment
- x>20 September - LDC with Sher

Jay1, contact me j1962@netcabo.pt (I'll reply back my telephone number). Matt posted his mail address several times.

Lobo, I think you've already spoken with Jay1...

Matt

Leslie, I can't find a post that tells where you are staying. Did you find an apartment? We would be happy to host the wine and cheese party at our apartment, the "Fodors' VRBO".

I propose king's Solomon justice. Let's party one day in Leslie's appartment and the other day in Judi's appartment. This way nobody is feeling as left behind

That sounds like a plan to me!

Hello Matt;

Two friends and I (all originally from just outside Toronto, but now one lives in London, one in San Fran and me in Halifax, Nova Scotia) have decided to celebrate turning 40 with a few days excitement in Lisbon. We are still firming up our plans but it looks like we will be in Lisbon November 1 - 3 and then going somewhere for 3 additional days of golf. Anyway, having never been to Portugal previously, I am arriving on Oct 29 and plan on spending those few days in Lisbon on my own (all wives have graciously allowed us to proceed on our own!), therefore if anything happens to be going on with the LDC for any of the 29-31, I would be interested in joining you. I will be in Portugal through Nov 12 and would like to spend the 7th - 12th outside of Lisbon, likely Central Portugal and north to Porto (I am a bit of a wine enthusiast) and would look forword to any suggestions you (or anyone else o course) may have for my time in these areas (still solo travelling).

Thanks in advance.

Those who met Matt, or know him by photos may be unable to recognize him, because since he let his beard grow, he looks the twin brother of Chewbacca. I believe it makes me Han Solo, his companion of adventures

I am already on record as saying that the picture of Matt with the Masai elder makes him look like Indiana Jones. So if you, Lobo, are Han Solo, that must make you and Matt twins.

Pictures of Chewbacca please.

Here it is the picture of Chewbacca:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chewbacca
For a picture of Matt with grown blond beard, you have to wait for the next LDC

It's the Matt/Chewie picture I'm interested in. Guess I'll have to wait, but someone other than Matt has to bring a camera, as he won't allow pictures of himself unless he pre-approves the shot.

I am so glad I am finally able to read these posts as well as respond!!

My husband and I are goig to Seville and Portugal in Jan. Great information!!! I can't wait! I have never been to Portugal before.

Anne

I also will be interested in seeing the photo of Matt as Chewie. For anyone who wants a good look at him sans beard, I got one in July. It's at: www.pbase.com/annforcier/image/65256619

I'll just repeat what I said in my trip report, that the LDC was one of the highlights of our Portugal trip. I definitly encourage anyone who visits Lisbon to try and attend one.

I'vw just brought the Millenium Falcon in from blowing up the Death Star and am enjoying a space beer and enjoying these last postings. I prefer to think of myself going through an Ernest Hemingway stage, or Jim Morrison or my musical hero Jerry Garcia but perhaps a wookiee is more recognisable.

David, got your email, I'll reply soon with my home tel number.

Anne hope to see you soon on the "Things to do in and around Lisbon Part III" thread.

The best LDC so far? A private affair this past weekend.

Menu:

Chilled melon bread and cream soup with toasted almond and farinheira topping.

Duck rice with gently steamed brocolli and red cabbage.

Steamed salmon steaks with potatoes and brocolli.

Mango mousse.

Wines were Porca da Murça Red and white, (reserves) starting with the white and working onto the red.

Ending with a crushed ice whisky and coffee cream Sorbet.

Unfortunately this "restaurant" is very private and the waiting list for a table is many years long. And one can see why, the food was divine, the location perfect, the hosts charming - even if I did bore them with my New York reminiscances...

Oh and terribly expensive to boot.

Now Mexican, my place?

Chewie.

Is that an invitation? On behalf of the whole wolves' pack, it's more than accepted

I just found your thread a few days ago and I'm addicted!! Your group sounds like way to much fun and I hope we can meet up in Lisbon. Four of us (two couples) are traveling from Austin, TX to Portugal arriving in Lisbon the morning of Oct. 2 and departing from Lisbon early Oct. 12. We plan to travel to many of the places talked about in other people's travel reports so that has been very helpful. We'll be in Lisbon the night of the 2,3, and 4th. Let us know if anyone is available for dining. I'm sure i'll have some questions before we leave. We are all really looking forward to seeing your beautiful country! (My husband has even selected a tie for a trip to Adega das Gravatas)

LDC scheduled events:

- 21 September - LDC with David (dwsnyder) + Susan - Adega das Gravatas
- 29 September - LDC with Brazilnut + friend (the 1st LDC to be held in Portuguese language) in "O Cantinho do Bem Estar"
- 2...4 October - LDC with Nardah + DH - Adega das Gravatas
- 9 or/and 10 October - cheese and wine party with Leslie + ?? + Judi + ?? in Leslie's (Imernal) appartment
- x of y - LDC with Sher

Feel free to contact me anytime j1962@netcabo.pt

If I forgot someone, please let me know.

Oh Lobo, how I wish I were still on the dining list. Perhaps one day, we will dine again!

Are there dining club get togethers in January?

Of course there are. At least I don't plan to move anywhere. Post here your window of opportunity or email to me.

I will also be there in Jan!! At the end of the month. We will be driving from Seville.
I will def email you too. YOur pics are great and as trip report so informative.

Your wish is my command.

Just let Bob and I know when and where and we will be there.

Any day is good for us between Oct. 24-28, as we leave on Saturday morning.

Sherry

LDC scheduled events:

- 21 September - LDC with David (dwsnyder) + Susan - Adega das Gravatas
- 29 September - LDC with Brazilnut + friend (the 1st LDC to be held in Portuguese language) in "O Cantinho do Bem Estar"
- 2...4 October - LDC with Nardah + DH - Adega das Gravatas
- 9 or/and 10 October - cheese and wine party with Leslie + DH + Judi + DH in Leslie's (Imernal) appartment
- 24...27 October - LDC with Sher + DH (27th favourite option) - with an option for an additional Estremoz/Alandroal Dining Club GTG if the calendars match.
- 15<x<31 Jan - LDC with Laartista + Annsherrod (x to be acknowledged)
- somewhere in the near future - LDC with Kenderina + Emilio
- somewhere in the near future - LDC with Namaka + Robert + lovely children

We will be in Estremoz Oct 17th until Oct 21st when we are planning to move to Vila Nova de Milfontes.

BUT we have not made reservations in Vila Nova although we have a place in mind. We wanted a little flexibility for the Alentejo in the event we wanted to stay longer.

So we would be there in any case on Friday the 20th of October, and could actually stay the next night of Oct 21st which is a Saturday. If our rental is not available for Friday night, I am sure we can find something. In fact, we have a apartment outside of Estremoz, so we can host a pre dinner drink. The owner is setting us up with a winery in the area and I am looking forward to buying and tasting some of the local wine.

And the 27th of October is perfect in Lisbon.

Hey lobo
I don't have my dates yet but it will definitely be in that 2 week period in Jan. So I'll post here when I know for sure. What's the weather like then, do you guys get much of a winter?

Hey Laartista - we may be there the same time. I think for me it is the last week of Jan. It could be a regualr dining club GTG!!!

I too will post when I know particulars!!

that would be great annes- I usually get my tickets in Nov. because I use miles and noone ever travels in Jan. Feb. My schedule is really flexible then but def. mid to end Jan.

Engines are already warming up for the 21st Sep LDC. Today we will have a mini LDC just for ice breaking before the full LDC next Thursday.
Brazilnut, are you out there??? I'd like to receive some news from you!!! please email me. I was doing some field work with Loba last Sunday we went to Cantinho do Bem Estar. Boy!!! the place is so tiny!!! I think 6 of us can't seat there at the same time May be we have to seat in shifts But anyway it will be great

I see that there is nothing in the works for Oct. 18, 20, 21, or 22. I'll keep checking this thread in case at least a mini LDC, if not a full-fledged fado and/or dining experience is planned. I know I've arrived a bit late on the scene, but you guys are having such fun...

Dear Newcomer
I hope you understand we are limited to 1 or 2 formal LDC's each month, by reasons you might understand easily. However, our availability to do mini LDCs around a table sharing a couple of beers and some pestiscos is eventualy unlimited Tell us where you are stayng, your preferences, and we will make our way to spent a nice hour or two.
Feel free to email me anytime.

Obrigada, Lobo. Yes, I know that you can't dine out every night - just wishful thinking on my part! I will definitely e-mail you about meeting for drinks, and not tie up this thread any longer.

newcomer. I am sure no one that posts here feels that you are tying up this thread.
Sherry

Hi Sherry,

You asked on another thread if I am off to Portugal soon.......Yes! We will arrive on October 3 and will stay eight nights before going on to Nerja. We are so ready for the departure day to arrive! I am sorry that we will be gone when you get there.

The wine and cheese party at Leslie's apartment on October 9 sounds fun.

Hi Lobo Mau,
I just now realized that you have us scheduled for Sept 29, but we will only arrive in Lisbon on the 30th...Can you still make it?

Yes. It does sound like fun. I hope you have a great trip.

Sherry

LDC scheduled events:

- 30 September - LDC with Brazilnut + friend (the 1st LDC to be held in Portuguese language) in "O Cantinho do Bem Estar"
- 2...4 October - LDC with Nardah + DH + friend + DH
- 9 October - cheese and wine party with Leslie + DH + Judi + DH in Leslie's (Imernal) appartment
- 27 October - LDC with Sher + DH
- 15<x<31 Jan - LDC with Laartista + Annsherrod (x to be acknowledged)
- somewhere in the near future - LDC with Kenderina + Emilio
- somewhere in the near future - LDC with Namaka + Robert + lovely children
-------------
Brazilnut, 30th is perfect. I suggest you a post diner meeting (10:30 pm?). We could go to "Caldo Verde", which is 50 steps from "Cantinho do Bem Estar" and drinking some sangria while listen to some Fados. We (lobo and loba) were there last Saturday and the place is very funny.
Matt, are you out there? Are you joining us? Please do!!!
Brazilnut, send me a mail, since I don't want to post my telephone number here.

Hello Lisbon Dining Experts,

I've been following your dining adventures with interest and envy.

I'm putting together a school trip for my adult English students. They are from the German part of Switzerland, ages 25 - 70. We would be about 15 people and are flying to Lisbon from Zürich for a four-day extended weekend.

Now, my question. Would you mind if we joined your lively group for
1) a wonderful dining experience
2) a great cultural exchange of ideas and experiences?

Some of my students speak English fluently and would love to have the opportunity to meet you. We've been doing these trips on a yearly basis and know each other well.

As for me, I'm a female Swiss/American who's been in Switzerland for over 20 years. Your dining experiences sound like major fun and I'd love to take part if I may.

We will be in Lisbon from March 16-17, 2007. (That's Friday - Monday.)

We would be delighted if we could arrange something.

Thanks!

30th - that's Saturday is it not? I'll check with the Boss but for now I'll tentatively confirm.

Schedule's starting to look good, but everyone must be aware that Matt_from_England will be in England from 11th-22nd of November and thus Lobo and Loba will be in charge of all things Cullinary during these times.

Matt

welcome back Matt. Your posts have been too few lately!

Dear Schuler, it sounds very nice! It's already marked in LDC agenda. Keep in touch.

Newcomer, don't be shy and keep in touch (j1962@netcabo.pt)
Narda, I've been trying to contact you, but there is some problem with the mail delivery. Stay tuned. I loved the picture.

Dear Lobo,

Thanks for the confirmation! I'll be sure to put the Lisbon Dining Club down on my itinerary.

See you in March!

Lobo Mau

Caldo Verde at 10:30 pm is Ok with me. But I can't stay very late, have to catch my flight back to Salvador on Sunday morning so that I can be home in time to vote...
I am in Rome now, but will check this site tomorrow and Friday night to confirm, OK!
my e-mail: ceciliasard@yahoo.com.br

Dear Brazilnut. I sent you a mail a few minutes ago. We will be at the door of Caldo Verde at 10:30. I hope Matt is able to join us. Our plans include sharing a Caldo Verde soup, a Chouriço Assado with bread and a Jar of Sangria. If you want something more substantial, they have other offers like Febras Grelhadas or Bitoque. If you want to have diner in advance in Cantinho do Bem Estar or outher place, please do. Até já...

Hello All-
My husband and I soon hope to join the LDC. I've been salivating over some of the dining experiences described in this thread. We will be visiting Lisbon for the first time November 8-14. If others will be there during that time, perhaps we can get a larger group together. We are from Chicago and as I understand it may be the first diners from the Windy City to joing the LDC, we are up for all foods and are very excited to try the local cuisine.
Matt-Thanks for your reply, I look forward to meeting you all.

LDC scheduled events:

- 30 September - LDC with Brazilnut + friend (the 1st LDC to be held in Portuguese language) in "Caldo Verde"
- 2...4 October - LDC with Nardah + DH + friend + DH (see note)
- 9 October - cheese and wine party with Leslie + DH + Judi + DH + mjanensch(?) in Leslie's (Imernal) appartment followed by fado and sangria and chouriço assado party in Caldo Verde
- 27 October - LDC with Sher + DH
- 20 November (tentative) - LDC with JenG + DH (due to the professions of our dear guests I don't know if I dare to show up, but Matt and Lizzy and Loba will sure do)
- 15<x<31 Jan - LDC with Laartista + Annsherrod (x to be acknowledged)
- 17 March - LDC with Schuler + 15 friends from Switzerland (German speaking). I have to see again the whole series of Kommissar Rex and try to learn a few words The first attempt wasn't successful
- somewhere in the near future - LDC with Kenderina + Emilio
- somewhere in the near future - LDC with Namaka + Robert + children
-------------
note: Narda, I have tried unsuccessfuly to mail you. It seems that my ISP doesn't know where Texas is. I'll try to call the hotel during the dates you told you were there. If I can't find you, I wish you all a very pleasant stay. Enjoy and return soon. And we loved the picture.

LDC scheduled events (correction):

- 30 September - LDC with Brazilnut + friend (the 1st LDC to be held in Portuguese language) in "Caldo Verde"
- 2...4 October - LDC with Nardah + DH + friend + DH (see note)
- 9 October - cheese and wine party with Leslie + DH + Judi + DH + mjanensch(?) in Leslie's (Imernal) appartment followed by fado and sangria and chouriço assado party in Caldo Verde
- 20 October (tentative) - LDC with newcomer
- 27 October - LDC with Sher + DH
- 10 November (tentative) - LDC with JenG + DH
- 15<x<31 Jan - LDC with Laartista + Annsherrod (x to be acknowledged)
- 17 March - LDC with Schuler + 15 friends from Switzerland (German speaking).
- somewhere in the near future - LDC with Kenderina + Emilio
- somewhere in the near future - LDC with Namaka + Robert + children
-------------
note 1: In my last post I was referring the fact that we will have 2 teachers of English language and literature here in Lisbon, but in fact I'm lost since I just lost the track about who's who
note 2: Our friends from Switzerland are English speakers, so any other Fodorites are more than welcome to join us.

Okay, so having recovered from the celebrations following Tuesday's result I'm looking through the list:

Lobo, there is no way we can do 10.30pm Saturday night - toooo late and no baby sitters. Can we not do something earlier that night?

Later next week with Nardah should be okay pending final instructions...

Again October 9th yes, but not so late, I am preferring an earlier time due to the girls...

So for now I await further details,

Matt

Oh and we never said what a wonderful night it was with David and Susan at Adega das Gravatas - unfortunately I forgot the camera but David has all the photos and when he sends them across the report will be up.

You know... wolves are night predators...
For Saturday we have to check with Brazilnut. Do you think 7pm is a good tentative schedule?
For the cheese and wine, a nice plan would be start the party sooner with you, Lizzy, children and our foreigner guests, and we will arrive whenever is possible for us.

Lobo, I am delighted to see that we are on the LDC schedule; I didn't know if you had received my e-mail. I will put the Oct. 20 on my itinerary and await further details! Keeping track of all of these engagements must be turning into a full time job for you - but we all REALLY appreciate it!

It's not a job, it's a pleasure

Lobo,

I am sure I speak for all of us, when I say that the pleasure has truly been ours!

Matt,
Earlier should be fine for us foreigners. It would be great to have your girls there. What time were you thinking?
Those with stamina can do Caldo Verde with Lobo and Loba! (I'm in, for sure!)

Leslie

Lobo
I did get your email today! We arrive in Lisbon Mon. Oct 2 at 10:40 am. Great idea to meet up later that day and then we can see what is best for your schedule and Matt's for dining. We would love to meet everyone. With this forum it feels like we already know you! I have your phone number and will call when we arrive.

Narda

Dear Brazilnut, if you see this message, please call me. I sent you a mail a few minutes ago, but I don't know if you are able to receive it.

- 4 October - LDC with Nardah + DH + friend + DH - Adega das Gravatas
- 9 October - cheese and wine party with Leslie + DH + Judi + DH + mjanensch(?) in Leslie's (Imernal) appartment followed by fado and sangria and chouriço assado party in Caldo Verde
- 20 October - LDC with newcomer + DH
- 27 October - LDC with Sher + DH
- 10 November - LDC with JenG + DH
- 15<x<31 Jan - LDC with Laartista + Annsherrod (x to be acknowledged)
- 17 March - LDC with Schuler + 15 friends from Switzerland
- somewhere in the near future - LDC with Kenderina + Emilio
- somewhere in the near future - LDC with Namaka + Robert + children
--------------------
PS: Schuler, we will try to reserve a room just for us in Adega das Gravatas. It will be great. Just a question: Some cultures have a kind of "wine songs" that friends sing together after a few glasses. Is there something similar in Switzerland?

We are leaving today and will be in Lisbon tomorrow!

Thank you, Lobo, for being so welcoming to us all. I am looking forward to meeting you all on October 9.

Hi Lobo:

Adega das Gravatas is perfect! Thank you! Just let me know when we should meet. We'll be staying at Hotel Mundial.

Singing:
Well, the only time my group has got into singing was in a Dublin pub. After a few beers, they started jodeling and singing some wonderful Swiss songs. It was real nice. If they feel real comfortable, I'm sure they'll do it again.

Restaurant with entertainment:
I'd like to go with them to a restaurant with some live entertainment on Friday or Sunday night. Preferably with Fado. Do you think I should try to book PÁTIO DA MEMÓRIA or do you have any other suggestions?

I've found a company called "Walking around Lisbon" that offers tours in German. I think we'll use them for the old town/castle area and Belem. However, if you know of any other private German guides, please feel free to suggest one. (Not all my students are fluent in English and having an English tour would be a waste of money for some.)

Thank you so much for reserving the restaurant and for any other advice. It's nice to know I have a friend in Lisbon.

Tschüss!

Pateo da Memoria's lost a star in LDC classification due to a meal below our (high) standards. We are looking for alternatives. Keep tuned.

Will do. Danke!

mjanensch-
Judi is now in Lisbon, and may not get your email. She and Paul are coming to our apartment on Oct 9, around 8PM. Feel free to arrive then. Lobo and Loba will arrive ~9-9:30. We're not sure if Matt and his wife are coming, but hope so. After wine,cheese,etc, we will go to Caldo Verde for light dinner and fado. If you need the address, email Lobo Mau at j1962@cabo.pt. He also has my cell phone number. Could you bring a bottle of wine and a small hors d'oeuvre of some sort?
Look forward to meeting you and Philip.
Leslie

minor correction: j1962@netcabo.pt

Another night of worship took place at the altar of the Lisbon Dining Club: grand wizard Poobah Lobo Mau initiated 4 more cult members into the appreciation of fine wine, cuisine and conversation: please note that the next evening those attending will be required to wear moose headresses and flowing white robes, and will only be admitted if able to perform a complicated handshake whilst chanting Benfica Olé three times.

Now where will I find time to update this thread with 2 dining club reports and photos?

Less drinking eating talking and goat sacrifices more time at the computer I think, Mr from England.

Matt

Brilliant Mr from England!

Hi all,

I believe i have all the info. I emailed Lobo to confirm.

We will certainly bring some wine and food.

We are looking forward to the initiation ceremony. I have packed my black robe and branding iron.

Alas, no room in the suitcase for white robe and headdress (maybe hotel robe and shower cap can suffice..). On all other counts, this sounds like our kind of group!!

Really glad to have joined before the new initiation requirements. I don't look good in moose.

Benfica Olé ? You will have to teach me .. till then, I'd rather prefer to sing Barça's Hymn...it's better for my voice

I've just received a call from Leslie regarding the wine and cheese party today. I have a great expectation for tonight and I'm sure it will be a lot of fun.
Nikki, who said you don't look good in moose? I'd love to see it kind regards to Mindy.
Kenderina, your seat in one of the next LDCs is secured, but I understand that in this moment LDCs are the least of your concerns. I hope everything goes ok with your father. I emailed you in Portuguese a few weeks ago and I hope you were able to decypher it.
According to my records, Judi is in Lisbon, Mjanensch is in Lisbon, Nardah and the gang are roaming somewhere in central Portugal and Newcomer is arriving tomorrow.

Okay so run things by me again for tonight Lobo. Lizzy cannot come nor the girls - no babysitters no car (still) so I'll be coming alone with my time share leaflets to hand round and hard sell. So perhaps then it makes sense to arrive with yourself and Gertrude (Stª) a little later?

Things will be a little complicated but what if I were to meet you both in the region of Cais de Sodre Railway St having caught the ferry across?

Speak later,

Matt

Time share hard sell aside it was another fine evening last night and many thanks go to Leslie for hosting us all at their appartment. (NB - I was impressed with it as a place to stay and its views to the castle were worth every penny). After sampling many wines and most excellent conversation, especially surrounding the Brooklyn Dodgers and the perfect game, we were off for fado and caldo verde which again was an excellent choice of João's.

Full report to follow but for now a roll call:

Leslie and Skip.
Judi and ...... (sorry getting old)
Mike and Phil (?)

Speak later,

Matt

Judi and Paul, I think.
Matt, we love to do field work, it's almost as fun as the real thing. Regarding the yesterday meal and fado show, I found it to be an excellent quality/cost relation. My expectations were in the range 15...20 euros, and it turned to be 13. It's hard to beat this price.

Next scheduled events:

- 14 October - tex-mex LDC (no foreigner guests this time) in a very selective restaurant in Rive Gauche
- 20 October - LDC with newcomer + DH
- 10 November - LDC with JenG + DH
- 15<x<31 Jan - LDC with Laartista + Annsherrod (x to be acknowledged)
- 17 March - LDC with Schuler + 15 friends from Switzerland
- somewhere in the near future - LDC with Kenderina + Emilio
- somewhere in the near future - LDC with Namaka + Robert + children

Portuguese have very creative names for food. We had previously the "camel spit" and yesterday we tasted the "saw dust" and the "woodpecker".
For our next visitors with sensitive stomachs, I can assure that in neither situation it is what the name claims it to be.

OK, you've got me. I am coming to Lisbon for a day, then heading to Lagos to visit a friend. I thinking a Friday in November, possibly the 10th, though I have to talk to my friend in Lagos first, but perhaps I could talk to Kenderina and we could set dates. We have a pending meeting.

A quick thanks to Joao, Matt and Gertrude for a terrific LDC last night. We had a great time sitting around the apartment with all of you, and going through 5 bottles of wine {all very good}. Iºm not sure how we made it to Caldo Verde and back {after 2 more pitchers of Sangria}! The conversation was far-ranging, to say the least, and the company was the best. Thanks to Judi, Paul, Mike and Philip for being there, and to everyone for bringing food and drink. It will be the most memorable time of our trip, without a doubt. By the way,Matt, it's not the age that makes you forget, it's the Vinho Verde!

So glad to see the good times are continuing!
Sher if you are out there - have a great trip - it has been awhile in the planning and I know you will enjoy all you have planned.
Our best to the LDC and maybe we will join another outing in 2007!

Dinner with David: a belated L.D.C report.

It was clear from the outset that David, (Dwsnyder) and his wife Susan were looking forward to the Lisbon Dining Club: in fact just by going back through the Lisbon thread, (Part three) leading up to their arrival the excitement level was building tempting David to try cooking for himself some Sardines

http://www.dwsnyder.com/images/Food/IMG_1333.JPG

which to me looked pretty good.

I think it can be ascertained by now from our various postings that neither João nor I are mad or dangerous, (although perhaps Lizzy might say different), or are Time Share Salesmen but even so it is nice to have some email contact before the big day and messages were bouncing around between us all. But then on the very day of the meal itself (21st Sept) Susan was ill and last minute phone calls confirmed that she would keep her chin up and struggle through. So with the old faithfull Yankee's cap covering my bald spot we met up in Cais do Sodre metro station and sharing some Yankee's banter headed down into the tunnels.

Our destination was the now well known Adega das Gravatas and despite its popularity tourists are a rarity other than on L.D.C nights. We took Carolina, (our eldest daughter along) as the youngest member but it should be noted that there are no non-smoking areas in the restaurant and when full it can become quite hazy - to be honest I don’t think we’ll be taking her again because of this problem. Despite her initial retiscence she was soon teaching David to count to ten in Portuguese and it was obvious he had been practising for Lizzy commented that his accent was pretty good.

I think that Susan really was suffering but she put on a brave face throughout the night:

http://www.dwsnyder.com/Portugal/TripReport/images_ldc/IMG_1424.jpg

And the best I could do was describe each course for her, the bouquet of the wine and so on...

The starters consisted of such delights as octopus salad and fava beans with morcela, (a kind of crumbly blood sausage)

http://www.dwsnyder.com/Portugal/TripReport/images_ldc/IMG_1426.jpg

and those of you who have read the reports will know how tasty they are. Big fresh prawns and olives drizzled in olive oil with chopped garlic, bread and cheese and of course it was important to place a wine order so the trusty Periquita was placed before us. (And usually I’m not one for having my photograph taken but David snuck this one off before I realised!)

http://www.dwsnyder.com/Portugal/TripReport/images_ldc/IMG_1427.jpg

First course was the Açorda das Gambas - bread stew with prawns which was originally a poor man's stew from the Alentejo region: simple ingredients, (except for prawns) stale bread, coriander, garlic, olive oil, salt and raw egg all of which would have been to hand. I know since David has tried cooking it upon his return perhaps he’ll tell you how easy it is to prepare…

Before:

http://www.dwsnyder.com/Portugal/TripReport/images_ldc/IMG_1431.jpg

And during mixing at the table:

http://www.dwsnyder.com/Portugal/TripReport/images_ldc/IMG_1429.jpg

The raw egg is mixed in cooking it – you let the stew stand for a couple of minutes. Full of strong flavours we had 2 servings which was enough for all of us and more…

Here’s Lizzy and Gertrude getting drunk and discussing the guests.

http://www.dwsnyder.com/Portugal/TripReport/images_ldc/IMG_1432.jpg

The main course was the famous Plumas de Porco Preto – feathers (my best translation) of the black pig and despite there not being any photos to show once more it was excellent: the black pig being free range and fed solely on acorns in the Alentejo – it has very little fat and the meat is very flavoursome grilled over charcoal. With a little squeeze of lemon and served with “Liberty” fries, white rice and a braized red green and yellow pepper salad it is a dish that I can eat over again without becoming bored. Carolina had her own childrens menu which was a scaled down in size steak with fries rice and salad but it is important to ask for the meat to be “Bem Passado” well done otherwise it comes rare which she wouldn’t have eaten.

A view up the table as we finish the deserts – and I seem to remember it was Quente e frio, (frozen ice cream cake with hot chocolate sauce), sericaia, (a delicate sponge topped with a plum and plum syrup) and bola da bolacha, (biscuit cream and coffee cake).

http://www.dwsnyder.com/Portugal/TripReport/images_ldc/IMG_1436.jpg

As per usual round the table conversation becomes smoother with the amount of wine consumed…

http://www.dwsnyder.com/Portugal/TripReport/images_ldc/IMG_1438.jpg

(Notice my eyes) and

http://www.dwsnyder.com/Portugal/TripReport/images_ldc/IMG_1439.jpg

I actually think David here was trying some of his Portuguese and Carolina was busy correcting him.

No meal at Gravatas is complete without the ritual tie presentation and here David is with the manager, Luís Caleiro:

http://www.dwsnyder.com/Portugal/TripReport/images_ldc/IMG_1440.jpg

I always wonder whether Luís takes the ties home with him and I find him trying to sneak off with it on...

http://www.dwsnyder.com/Portugal/TripReport/images_ldc/IMG_1441.jpg

But no, later it was hung above someone’s head and you can look out for it next time you’re there!

The bill, now I’m having to wrack my brains but I can assure you it was no more than 20 euros per adult if that but I felt somewhat guilty for Susan had only a bland meal which was prepared for her of rice and potatoes and had to be contented with the smell alone - next time Susan...

And a nice touch at the end of the meal was that our most excellent waiter presented David and Susan with a goody bag full of reminders to take back to the U.S: wall tiles and place mats and other bits and pieces which is something small and personal but much appreciated.

http://www.dwsnyder.com/Portugal/TripReport/images_ldc/IMG_1445.jpg

I know David and Susan had a great night and it was a pleasure to be with them for this one evening, can’t wait to try their home cooking when we pay them a visit sometime next year. Once more in a short time two more internet friends became true friends and were a part of our two families for the evening – and the memories they take away and those that stay with me will be of laughter and joy, the waiter’s English and David's Portuguese, wonderful food and company and my daughter smiling and enjoying herself. I know these nights are about food but the true joy in meeting and knowing new people from far away is imeasureable. So David and Susan - "Á saude." and I'll always think of you with my glass of red at the end of the night. And Susan, it pains me to know that for one more year the Yankees will not be disputing the World Series…

Happy trails and until next time, be good,

Matt.

Next scheduled events:

- 20 October - LDC with newcomer + DH + beachman + DW
- 10 November - LDC with JenG + DH + Laclaire (?)
- 15<x<31 Jan - LDC with Laartista + Annsherrod (x to be acknowledged)
- 17 March - LDC with Schuler + 15 friends from Switzerland

That might just be laclaire +1. I need to figure that out, but will keep you posted. Where can I find your e-mail so I can confirm? Or shall I just do it all here?

Just sent you a mail to pradisima@gmail.com
kind regards

Matt & Lobo, just checking in to see what is happening with the LDC. Great report! I could almost taste the food again. Looks like you had a great time. I am missing Portugal very much.

Hi Sara - still trying to find the time to complete another 2 reports with photos: life is getting on top of me a bit...

How's the family?

Matt

ttt

This just in! I got a call from a very close friend in the US and he said "I finally did it!" Meaning that he has finally bought a ticket to Barcelona, arriving Nov. 10th. Good thing I had not purchased my Portugal tickets yet! So, I can't go on the 10th, but will see if I can do the weekend before or after and get back to you. Now that I had plans, I was really looking forward to the whole thing!

Laclaire, Matt and Lizzy are not in the country for a couple weeks after the 10th Nov and you don't want to meet us without them since they mean a lot of fun. You have several options:
- come earlier (3 Nov)
- come later (24 Nov) - if Matt is alreday in town
- bring your US friend with you.
If neither option is valid or if Matt is not available on 24th Nov, the next opportunities are 30 Nov and 7 Dec (Thursdays). We usually prefer Fridays but 1 and 8 Dec are holidays and I don't want to commit to these long weekends.
7 Dec has an extra bonus since the Christmas lights should be already turned on.

- 3 Nov - LDC with Jill (to be confirmed)
- 10 Nov - LDC with JenG (to be confirmed)
- 24 Nov - LDC with Laclaire (to be confirmed)
- 15<x<31 Jan - LDC with Laartista + Annsherrod (x to be acknowledged)
- 17 March - LDC with Schuler + 15 friends from Switzerland

I just booked our accomodations and my husband and i will be staying at the Hotel Britania. We are starting to get excited about the trip and look forward to the LDC on November 10. Just tell us where and we'll be there!

Well Lobo, it has to be Adega does it not?

We're home and I will start on my trip report shortly. I just wanted to thank Joao and Gertrude for arranging the LDC & fado evening - it truly was one of the highpoints of our trip! We didn't get back to the hotel til after 3 a.m. - later than we've been out since our college days!! It was so kind of you, Lobo, to drop us at the hotel afterwards - I was having so much fun that I didn't realize how late it was. I just want to encourage every visitor to Lisbon to try and experience the LDC - I think we learned more about Lisbon from Lobo's commentary than we did on our professional walking tour. Anyway, no timeshares were sold (maybe because Matt was absent?), but I enjoyed our visit so much that I might have been tempted...

No need to thank. After leaving you in the hotel, 5 minutes later we were home. No problem at all. I wish Matt and Lizzy were there, but "first things first" and family is always first.
Matt, regarding 10th November, we'll be nearby the band stand at 7:45. I'll make the reservation for 6. If there is any change in the number of participants, please let me know.
If Laclaire confirms for 24th Nov, I suggest Caldo Verde, since they prefer the mini-LDC version.

I am a bit late in thanking Leslie and Skip for hosting the fun LDC wine and cheese party on October 9. I was happy to finally meet Matt, Joao and Gertrude and disappointed not to get to meet Lizzie. Along with Mike and Phillip in attendance it was a great group. I join the people who say this was the highlight of our stay in Lisbon. If anyone has an LDC event scheduled, you are in for a treat.

Thanks again to all of my new best friends.

We are gearing up for our trip. Thought I'd just check in to see where to meet up with you on the 10th. After reading all the posts, we can't wait to enjoy a meal with the LDC at Adega.
Should we look for the Yankees cap?

Health problems are getting this weary old traveller down a bit at the moment, 1 reason (excuse?) for not having completed the 2 outstanding dinner reports, my apologies to all who await them.

Jen, I'll rouse myself for the 10th with Lizzy - drop me an email and I'll fill you in on the meeting point and times.

And yes I can wear the Yankees cap if need be

Matt

Hi Matt, I hope the weary old traveler is feeling better soon.

Hi Y'All Lisbon Diners,

I just wanted to report that 18 people have signed up for our Lisbon weekend. We are all very much looking forward to meeting the infamous diner experts of Lisbon.

Wishing Matt a speedy recovery and special greetings to Lobo.

See you on Saturday, March 17th!

Hi all. My first post to this thread. We've (the we being two females, colleagues and friends) just booked our flights to Lisbon for March 2006. We'll be in town the LDC that's already scheduled for March, but that looks to be quite a large party already. Let me know if there's any interest in scheduling a second one around that time.

Therese,

Why not join the party? The more, the merrier. You'll be glad you did!

You would be more than welcomed to join our group!

My group would love to practice their English and it would be a great cultural exchange: Swiss - US - British - Portuguese

What a night!

Thanks for inviting us to join your group, schuler. Sounds like fun, and certainly polyglot---I'm U.S. born but speak French and Italian, and my friend is Croatian.

I'll check with her and post back. We've only just started making plans at this point.

Next sceduled events:

- 10 Nov - LDC with JenG + DH in Adega das Gravatas
- 17 March - LDC with Schuler + 18 friends from Switzerland + Thérèse (?) + friend (?)

t

Hello Gang,

Firstly, let me start by saying that dinner with Jen and Mitch last friday was another excellent night out, great food and company. More to follow...

I have finally downloaded photos from the 2 previous LDCs to the PC and need to get some time in writing.

However, this Wednesday I'm off to England for 10 days returning on Nov 27, and unfortunately on the 28th then go to hospital for an operation on this health problem which turns out to be 50% kidney failure with the left having packed up completely. Won't bore you all with gory details but I hope that soon shall it be functioning again and is once more able to process all the red wine we drink on our nights out

So in terms of time I am going to be rather limited by circumstance and will be handing the reigns over to Lobo Mau for the foreseeable future. Then when I'm back on my feet again I promise to get my backside in gear and post some more.

Until that time comes, happy trails and be good,

Matt.

LDC's scheduled activities:

- 28 November - LDC with Matt + Lizzy + Loba + Lobo at Lisbon's Hospital. Menu: chicken soup and mineral water

Matt, have an extra gulp of chicken soup for me. Your friends all over the world are hoping you have an easy surgery and a speedy recovery.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery, Matt. Looking forward to meeting you and the others in March.

Dear Matt.
Have a safe and wonderful trip to England.

Also, you will be lucky if you are allowed to have chicken soup. My thoughts are with you and also my best wishes for a speedy recovery.

Matt,
We're thinking of you back here in San Francisco. We will invoke the spirits of Allen Ginsburg, Ken Kesey, Jerry Garcia, and the Jefferson Airplane to speed you in your recovery. Make sure they give you lots of pain meds, and don't drink any Electric Kool Aid!
Get well fast.

Leslie

Matt,
hoping you'll have good-looking nurses, great hospital food, a short stay and a speedy recovery!

Greetings to all the Lisbon experts,

Matt (and Liz):

You guys are absolutely wonderful people and (with Lobo and Loba) major contributors to one of the most memorable travel experiences of our lives. I'm sure you've touched many others in the same way !

Our thoughts will be with you and we'll hope to see you in May 2007 !

David & Susan

Matt, good luck on your surgery; there are many people wishing you a speedy recovery.

Matt, our prayers are with you.

gina & family

Matt, I am so sorry to hear of your health problems. I wish you a speedy recovery. In the meantime, I hope you are having a pleasant time in England.

Our thoughts are with you.

Paul and Judi

radio silence?

Lobo, et al.

I've been checking the boards daily in hopes of learning about Matt's condition. Any word ? Hope it's good news.

Our thoughts and prayers are certainly with Matt, Lizzy and Caroline !

David & Susan

Dear Matt and Lizzy,

We're adding our heartfelt wishes for Matt's easy and swift recovery to all those whose lives you've enriched by your generosity and fun-loving spirit.

Nancy and Meyer

Another successful mini-LDC to welcome 2 more outstanding representatives of the windy city. And the fado program we experienced in Cado Verde was the better, so far.

Next sceduled event:

- 17 March - Adega das Gravatas - LDC with Schuler + 18 friends from Switzerland + Thérèse (?) + friend (?)

Hi Schuler, Wie geht's? I know it's a long time (2 months and a half) but if you could sent me a mail (j1962@netcabo.pt) just to say if your plans are standind, I'd appreciate.

Okay, we're in for sure for the March 25 LDC. I just emailed lobo with contact info.

Hi Therese (nice name)
I hope you meant the March 17 LDC.

Hi Lobo,
Danke, gut!

Yes, I meant the March 17 LDC. Precisely how I managed to enter March 25 instead I can't say. Maybe I'm just a bit excited about the upcoming trip.

What a read! I think it's taken me over an hour to make my way through, and that was with skimming. What fabulous experiences - and meals - so many of you have shared!

First, my best wishes and hopes that Matt is making a good recovery.

And second, an inquiry as to whether the LDC might be in session March 31 or April 1?

Now, it's time to start researching "Things to Do...Parts I, II and III"

Okay my merry band of food fanatics - flight arrives ol' Lisboa tommorrow afternoon and I'll be back in the hotseat later that night. Some previous photos to upload and a montage of past reports to finalise then we'll be rocking and rolling for another succesful year of LDCs.

Cheers!

Matt

Hi Matt & Lobo

matt glad to see you're doing better. Sorry I didn't post back sooner dates were up in the air but I've pinned them down. Lisbon Feb. 6-10 Staying at the sofitel. Any chance for LDC on 7th, 8th or 9th? best wishes

As far as I am concerned, 9 Feb is a good day for a mini LDC (in fact all days are perfect for miniLDCs). If I remember correctly from previous mail exchanges, you prefer a miniLDC version. 10pm for a Caldo Verde, pão com chouriço and some drinks suits us perfectly.

Hi

Mini or otherwise is great. Feb. 9 sounds good. Is that the name of the place. Also any thoughts on Sofitel.
looking forward to it.

Dear Laartista

I remembered incorrectly since we've never exchanged any emails. It seems I have to organize better the LDC files in order to know who is who.

Please send me an email to j1962@netcabo.pt and I'll reply you my phone number and some suggestions for meeting place, time, etc.

Sofitel has a good location since it's near the south end of Av. Liberdade. From there you may easily walk to Rossio, Chiado, Bairro Alto and the other spots. The access to metro and tram system is very easy too.

Tuckerdc, please send me an email. As you can see our schedule is becoming tight but if we know you are in town, we can always meet for a coffee or a drink and some talk and photos.

Next scheduled activities:

- 9 Feb - miniLDC with Laartista
- 17 Mar - LDC with Schuler + 17 friends from Switzerland + Teresa + friend - Adega das Gravatas
- 7 Apr - miniLDC with Artnuvo

I have great expectations for the huge and very international LDC. We are already 24, but opened to more inscriptions. The waiter in Adega das Gravatas who is always looking to learn to say "thank you" in different languages will have a nice opportunity to practice

Matt, are you still alive??? It's time to start planning the NYDC.

I am all ears.

The Lisbon Dining Club on tour.

Well after much speculation I can announce now that the Lisbon Dining Club will be coming to America in March.

I will be coming with Lizzy and my oldest daughter, João with Gertrude and his boys arriving in New York on the 26th March and departing back to Portuguese shores on April 3rd. So that leaves enough time to arrange a big night in the big apple where we can all get together again, en masse.

I'll be posting a few more details in short time but for now don't change the channel...

Matt

Next scheduled activities:

- 9 Feb - miniLDC with Laartista
- 17 Mar - LDC with Schuler + 17 friends from Switzerland + Teresa + friend - Adega das Gravatas
- 30,31 (?) Mar - LDC in NYC
- 7 Apr - miniLDC with Artnuvo

Matt. Do you think you should also announce your LDC in NYC on the US board.
Maybe you have a place in mind or maybe someone from New York that would like to attend can give you some ideas.

Hi Sher:

While planning a trip to Portugal I have been spending hours on my train rides to work in NY reading the "veteran's" postings on this Forum. I found them very helpful and fun.

I am noticing plans for a LDC gathering in NYC. If I can be of any help please let me know.

Hi Suzanna. I wrote you some very humble opinions on your other post.

If a LDC in NYC gets planned, I am sure there will be a post here. Some help will be needed as I am not a native from Manhattan and really have no idea where such an event could take place.

You will love Portugal.

Sher, thanks again for your reply to my other post. If I can help (when time comes) w. the NYC gathering or anything else related to Matt's trip, let me know. The easiest way to do it is by sending me an email to steu1@optonline.net as I am not checking this forum every day.

Suzanna

The whole gang who is relocating to America for the March/April version of the LDC, gathered yesterday to outline the agenda. The outcome resulting in 99% from Matt's suggestions is too big, I'm affraid. Our next job is trimming it into the available time. Loba and Lobo and young Lobinhos are very excited about the trip.
In addiction to the attractions, the social program, will be great and all together will make this week an experience of a life time.

Hi Lobo, Loba and Matt!

Paul and I had planned a little trip to Las Vegas in the spring until I told him about the LDC in NYC. We had such a good time with you all in Lisbon that I think we may change our plans and show up in NYC instead!

I will be checking this spot for details.....

Last minute news!!!! The NYC LDC venue is already chosen.

After a trimming process that last the whole weekend and part of today, the LDC already has a place to meet. The selection was tough. First it was necessary to reach a short list of 10 places, and after all the pros and cons were evaluated, the board of directors of LDC have announced the winner in a press conference held today in Lisbon, Portugal.

As an appetizer, we disclose a picture of the place:
http://www.rushyoung.com/usa/newyorkstate/newyorkcity/manhattan/centralpark/centralpark.html

Keep tuned.

Ah, comfort food from my youth. Count me in.

Well, the price is right!

You guys are a hoot!

Knowing prices in NYC that'll be our 20 euros limit pp reached...

At least for your 20 Euros in the US, you can get a $25 meal.

Just think of us poor folks in Europe where 20Euros cost us $26. But in Lisbon, of course you can eat a nice meal for $26.

I don't envy you that.

Wish we could join you in NY but Arizona is too far for a few days. Love to show Matt Yankee Stadium. My wife and I will be in Lisbon Nov 3,4 & 5 and hope we can get together for a LDC experience one of those nights. (Prefer the 3rd or 4th as we have a very early flight out on the 6th. We'll be staying at the Mundial Hotel. I know that's a long way off but the way you guys attract people we wanted to get on the "waiting list". I know you'll enjoy NYhaving spent a great deal of my working life there.

3rd, 4th and 5th November are working days
It's most likely a mini LDC than a full LDC.
KR

hi matt and lobo,

looking forward to the mini ldc on april 7 and hope matt and others may be able to join.

as for nyc, let me suggest several central restaurants we visted about 2 weeks ago with great food: Hell's Kitchen at 9th and W46th St, reservations before 7, small and mostly locals, a french bistro about 2 blocks away, Marseilles which takes reservations,and for lunch or dinner, the small brasserie on W53rd st next door to the fancy "Brasserie Restaurant"-has an old fashioned zinc bar and inexpensive prixe-fixed L/D menus--also, on fridays, the Museum of Modern Art is free after 4pm and the line starts at 3pm-most of the line can be avoided after the first rush at about 6pm, with several really good shows including a Picasso show. If Matt and family will be in Washington, DC prior to our april 1 departure for lisbon, please contact me.

artnuvo@comcast.net

havent read this whole post just too long, is anyone invited to your meqals?

I can't believe this! My bad luck. I have been reading postings on this forum for a few days now and reading guide books as well. All in preparation for an upcoming trip to Portugal. I wanted to have all of my homework done before I came for help with my trip - but my trip to Lisbon is planned for the exact time that all of you Portugal experts will be in NY! And I am coming from NY to Lisbon! I had so much wanted to get your help and then try to meet some of you. Well, I guess I will just have to settle for getting your advice on my trip. I will be back with questions soon - Susan

That is bad luck, Susan! Talk about bad timing...

You will miss the fun of the LDC but Lisbon is a great city and you will have a good time there, I'm sure.

There was some vestigial snow fall today in Lisbon.

Schuler, tell your friends to bring their skiing equipment

Grüezi Lobo,

Snow in Lisbon? Is that usual? We are in dire need of more snow. Many of our regional snow lifts have barely enough to open. I put some deep scratches into my skis today.

Have fun sledding down those cobblestone streets!

I think you are bom but I respect your wish, Lobo_Mau, "Vestigial", eh? Whew!

Do you meet monthly in Lisbon? When in April?

Dear Comfy
It's 7th April if Artnuvo confirms. Otherwise it may be in any Friday or Saturday. I'm thinking in a miniLDC.
MiniLDCs differ from LDCs both in co$t and lenght.

lobo mau,

good evening,

am planning to see you on april 7 for the mini ldc we have been talking about. I thought I emailed you a week or so ago but if not this should confirm. were you planning to go with matt to nyc in late march?

artnuvo

Lobo_Mau, Sorry been a bit busy at work and forgot to respond earlier. 7th doesn't work. I am in Lisbon but for couple days in third week of April.

Have fun. Adeus.

Hi all
I have been away from the posts for awhile and now catching up on the news.

A NYDC sounds great! And the cart in Central Park may be the best spot - depends on the weather but that can be a gorgeous time in NY. Course can also be snow. This has been a crazy winter on the east coast. Be sure to post the best day to fit in with your tourist plans and maybe some of us can make it to NY to join you.

Sorry I have no idea of places to have a nice group dinner.

Are there any plans to see Washington DC as well? I am sure you will be busy enough in NY for week.

Hope to see you in the USA!
Barbara

Hi Barb

Nice to listen from you. We don't have an idea where to meet either but I´m sure Matt will have some.

We have already started filling some gaps in our agenda. On 28th we are going to see a Broadway production, on 30th we were invited to a private home and on 31st we'll have our NYC LDC.
The lobo's gang has to fit a short train ride to Philadelphia to see old friends and let the boys see something out of New York city.

Believe me, we'd love to see Washington, but one week is too short to do everything we´d like to.

Next scheduled activities:

- 17 Mar - LDC with Schuler + 17 friends from Switzerland + Teresa + friend - Adega das Gravatas
- 31 Mar - LDC in NYC
- 7 Apr - miniLDC with Artnuvo

Hi Lobo

Sounds like you really have a full week planned.

We are very seriously looking into coming to NYC for the weekend of March 31 to try to meet up for the great LDC in NYC! I hope others will make it as well.

Keep us updated.

Barb, if you can, please do. We have to find a meeting place. I'll talk to Matt about this. 6pm in Lobo's hotel seems convenient (at least to the wolves' pack). Whatever we decide we'll let you know by email.

Unfortunately the Namaka clan will be unable to attend. We were seriously looking at it when May was on the table, but March is out of the question. I hope you all have a wonderful time! I still hope to meet up with you again in Lisbon (one day).

Namaka. I was hoping you would be in New York so we could meet.

I go quite often and if you are there again, please let me know so we can get together for lunch or dinner or whatever.

I just spent a week visiting my brother and I got stuck an extra day because of the snow.

Sherry

"les beaux esprits toujours se rencontrent". I'm sure we will meet again in either side of the Atlantic.
The farturas and the street dance and music we experienced was the most unexpected and perfect of LDC endings.

Barb. I will definitely be there unless the snow gets me again.
Shouldn't it be gone by then?

Lobo_mau, count me and my DH in.

DH and I will also be there on March 31. I look forward to meeting those I have not met yet and seeing some familiar faces again. It would be a good opportunity for me to hear about your trip to Portugal, Sher.

I will look forward to it!

Looking forward to meeting everyone in NYC on March 31.

Anyone have an idea for a good place to have this get together?

Not sure where we will stay or where everyone else will be but I guess for a big city we can find each other fairly easily.

As of now I think we will arrive by train from DC on March 31 and stay 2 nights.

All suggestions welcome!

Everything is on the right trails
Since last Wednesday, the renewals of Lobo family passports are being produced.
A lot of ppl has given unvaluable information on "things do to in and around NYC".
I must apologize my absence of email replying during the last few days, but will reply individualy to all emails.
KR/LM

- 17 Mar - LDC with Schuler + 17 friends from Switzerland + Teresa + friend - Adega das Gravatas
- 31 Mar - LDC (somewhere in NYC)
- 4 Apr - miniLDC in Caldo Verde with artnuvo + 1 and elmoldo + 1

This is my first posting after many months of enjoyment following your interesting reports and outings.

I will finally be in lisbon april 18th, 19th and 20th. I have virtually all day the 19th free, the others i am busy at a convention and dinners.

Is there anything going on at lunch time i could attend between my touristy jaunt around the areas of lisbon? or that i should not miss besides the normal tourist fare?

thanks in advance, your NYC trip sounds great.

i have used priceline for hotels there. up to four rooms are bookable at once..

and the south street seaport half price ticket booth is never crowded like the times square one.

have fun!

Consider the 'Snout' clan IN ! We're looking forward to seeing Joao, Gertrude, Matt, Liz, Caroline again and meeting everyone else ! This time - Susan WILL be healthy !!

We'll probably get into the city on Thursday or Friday and would be happy to get together with some Fodorites / LDC folks when we aren't otherwise stuffing our faces with Italian food at Carmine's !!

Hello Lobo and Matt,
I just booked our tickets to Lisbon for June 27-July 10. Can’t wait to experience Portugal and already wish we had more time there.
We are not too far from NY and hope if schedule permits to meet you on March 31. Please let me know if it’s possible. My email is travfirst@yahoo.com.
Looking forward to meeting LDC in NYC!

Many thanks to lobo mau and Matt for organizing dinner at Adega das Gravatas at the most recent meeting of the LDC on March 17. Fantastic food (really, it was exceptional and that's not something I say casually) and lovely company by way of Switzerland.

We loved absolutely everything about Lisbon, and this evening was particularly nice.

We are a family of 12! coming to Lisbon on August 3, staying for 6 nights and then heading up north to find my mother's roots! we are 4 sisters (42, 49, 50, 51) my mother (78 and spry!), assorted spouses and 4 children, (ages 15 to 20. we would love to know YOUR Lisbon and your restaurants, maybe even a night at Fado or Campo Pequeno. My mother and I speak Portuguese (mine has become more Brazilian as I studied in Rio and work in the states with Brazilians). We are a big family that loves to eat and drink, and have a good time. Any chance we can arrange something? I read your view about Marvao instead of Obidos, we plan on going there, too!

Hi everybody
LDC is reporting live from NYC after a uneventful flight from Lisbon, with empire state in line of sight.
Susana, keep tuned, I'll reply later.
Joao "lobo mau"

Welcome to the USA.

Hi, Lisbonites! Welcome to the US. I hope you have a wonderful time.

I wish we could be there but the timing is wrong for us.

We certainly have fond memories of the LDC back in October. You are the best!

Welcome to the US. I have celebrated your arrival by finishing up The Maias this afternoon and by going to hear a concert by Mariza last weekend in an audience that was mostly Portuguese. Ready to welcome the Portuguese delegation to New York now.

Glad all the lobos are safe and sound in the USA. Welcome!

Have a great week - weather looks good until the weekend

See you Sat.
Barb and Jim

Hey, Joao !! We're missing you all here at the peninsula Hope you have a great time there !

Oh boy! I didn't previously understand how big the apple was!!!
We walked all the way from Penn station to the middle of Central Park and back. It was quite a long ride. Boys slept non stop since 10pm to 7 and a half this morning.
Everything is beautiful so far. The high notes are the pond views (central park) with nice views of the NYC skyline and the atmosphere in Times Square after it gets dark. Never very dark anyway. We were too tired to appreciate, but we plan to return there. KR from lobo mau and the wolves' pack.

Hi Lobo and Gang,
Wishing you a safe and enjoyable trip in NYC. Dazzle them with your Portugese charm!

Lobo, sorry the Texans gave been so quiet!! About a week or so after our return from Portugal last Oct. I encountered a rather serious health issue. All is better now and I will email you later. BUT I wanted to wish you and sweet Loba and kids the best of times in NY. We will be thinking of you and all LDC members Sat. wishing we could be there. HI Matt and LIz, too!!

ps. the pictures of the Azores are beautiful!

We've been to the Statue of Liberty, ground zero, Ellis Island, to a Broadway production (the phantom of the opera) and to Philadelphia (liberty bell, independence hall, etc)
The higher point has been the feeling of security in NYC at any time.
We haven't find negative points, so far. Stay tuned. Lobo Mau reporting live, somewhere in NYC.

Oh fun! Hope your having a great time here. See you guys tomorrow night. Looking forward to it.

We've been to Met, NBC studios, top of the rock, the Village, grand central station. A continuous stream of wows!!
LDC had a remarkable NYC GTG 2 nights ago. It was attended by Lobo+3, Matt+2, Barb65+3, Baileys+DH, Sher+DH, Dwsnyder+DW, Travfirst+DH, Laartista+Robin and a local Matt's friend.
After the discovery phase and the social phase, we are now in the end-of-party phase.
We all carry home a strong willingness to return one day and explore more of NYC and other areas we couldn't physicaly fit into one week (e.g. Washington DC)
Stay tuned. Lobo Mau reporting live, somewhere in NYC (this is most likely the last message in American soil)

Nardah, we saw your message with great concern but it's good to know you are better. I'll return to you by regular mail after my return.

It was really great to meet you nad Matt and your lovely families. we had alot of fun. Glad you made it to the Met and are having a great time in this great city.

We had wonderful time at the LDC dinner. Really enjoyed meeting everyone.
Here's the link to the group photo:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/travfirst/detail?.dir=e049re2&.dnm=dbdere2.jpg&.src=ph

Once again I have managed to avoid having my picture posted on this Forum.

I guess I will always be the phantom poster.

We had a great time meeting so many of you.

Enjoy your trip to Portugal.

Shery

Caldo verde and chourico assado in a fado club? Any chance of this for our party of 12 coming in August?

Susana, were I you I'd probably skip as much of the food aspect of fado as possible. The quality of the food relative to that served in a conventional restaurant is comparable to the quality of food served at, say, dinner theatre in the U.S. relative to a conventional restaurant in the U.S. There are lots and lots of restaurants in Bairro Alto where you could eat first and then snack and drink later at the fado club (possibly shedding members of your party who didn't want to or shouldn't keep a late night).

Since the fado club may expect you to order food I'd even consider ordering the cheapest thing on the menu and simply not eating it. Consider it the equivalent of a cover charge that you'd pay at a bar with live music in the U.S. and it will seem like money well spent.

The Portuguese section of the LDC is home again. Thank you very much to all who have contributed with comments and suggestions to our trip to NYC. It was phisically impossible for us to follow most of them, but they will be included them in future NYC explorations.
This night lobo and loba will host 2 Bruces from USA in a chouriço assado and a caldo verde soup, in Caldo Verde itself. Susana49, come and join the party

Lobo, I am looking to join the party in August! I am with that party of 12 that emailed you, looking for ideas for Lisbon and while up north in Montalegre. I have read the discoverportugal2day website, and am planning the trip. We will be in Lisbon August 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. Looking for restaurants, a night with the LDC or a night of fado.
Susana

Here are a few pictures of Matt kickin' some serious chess butt in NYC. Also a really great horn player we watched for a while.

http://www.dwsnyder.com/LDC_NYC/

It was sure great to see all the Lisbon folks and to meet the 'non-Lisbon' contingent !

Hope we can get together with some of you again !

David & Susan

Thanks to all for a great GTG. We had fun in NYC as well seeing new things.

Great photo!

Hope to meet everyone again someplace, someday!

Barb & Jim

Lobo
I have been thinking about places to eat for my party of 12 coming to Lisbon in August...Adega das Gravatas sounds wonderful, a night of Fado sounds great too, Pateo? or Caldo Verde or something else you mentioned, I am not sure of the names. Seafood in Sesimbra, or where was it you mentioned in one your posts? We have Saturday night August 4th as definitely available, but Friday the 3rd is also a possibility. In addition, Monday the 6th may become available. By the way, on your advice we will be eating in Pedro dos Leitoes in Mealhado on Thursday on our way to Oporto and ultimately Montalegre. Obrigada por tudo..
Susana

Any chance the club will be meeting April 13-15? My husband and I will be in Lisbon (visiting from Massachusetts, US) and your group sounds like great fun!

Dear Matt and Lobo: We three great older women from the Washington D.C. area are coming to Lisbon on May 15th and are leaving Sunday the 19th in the a.m. Having read - all winter- about your dining club we are hoping that you will be having a "dinner meeting" while we are there, and that we may join you. (We will be in Porto from the 11th to the 15th). Here's hoping! Gail at gailwwg

My hussband and I will be in Lisbon on Sunday, May 6 and 7 as part of a tour group. We would very much like to experience the true flavor of Lisbon, not touristy, and meet people other than those in our group. What do we need to do to be a part of the Lisbon Dining Club?

Hi Susana, I hope everything is ok with you trip preparation. If you need some queries answered and/or need local support, please let me know.
I wouldn't like to commit myself, but if the Lobos are in Lisbon by that time, we'd love to meet you and your group.
August is good time to visit Lisbon, because everybody goes out of town (most to the Algarve) and you have all attractions just for you.

Hi lori, gailw and deeps. Sorry we haven't find the opportunity to meet you. May be next time. I hope you found your Lisbon visit enjoyable.

Hi Lobo
My preparations are going along, thanks. I will keep in touch and see if anyone is around in August when we come. What are your thoughts on getting 12 people from the airport to our apartments near Rossio and the Praca dos Restauradores? Should we hire a minibus and make it easier, or take 3 taxis? The minibus is about 74 euros, 3 taxis would be about 10 euros each taxi. Would it be alot of hustling to get the 12 people into the 3 taxis?
Thanks so much, for everyones suggestions.
Susana

Take the 3 taxis.
When you leave the airport, there is a long queue of taxis waiting. There is at least one airport employee and some police agents, making sure that the process of taking taxis is done in good order. Nothing to worry about.

Lobo, Lisbon's answer to George Clooney, is right on target.

Our group consisted of 17 people and we took the aerobus from the airport to Rossio. We had to fight to get on the bus and the trip took longer than by taxi.

At the end of our stay, we paid about 7 Euros for a taxi ride from Hotel Mondial (near Rossio) to the airport. Much better and faster than the aerobus.

Thanks everyone, my group of 12 is going in taxis.
Susana

Hi Matt and Lobo,
We will be visiting Lisbon on June 27 – 29 (can’t wait!!!) and on July 9. Do you have any LDC plans for that time? It will be wonderful to see you and your lovely wives again.

Dear Trav 1st
As you know June is the month of Santos Populares. The craziest of Lisbon's nights is 13th June evening (Saint Anthony, patron of Lisbon) with 24rd (Saint John) and 29th (Saint Peter) coming close. The mandatory meal for these days are grilled sardines with sangria, eaten in the open space in improvised restaurant areas of popular districts of Lisbon, while listening to louzy music.
Tradition says sardines should be eaten with the hepl of bare hands, but I indulge myself with the cooperation of a fork and a knife.
Lizzy and Gert and their lovely husbands are eating out tonight and we'll make use of the occasion to discuss dinner on the 28th. Whatever is the outcome of this discussion, I think is very convenient for you to make a reservation of 28th dinner in your agenda. I think I have your email address. Kind regards to Mr Travfirst.

In my last post I meant 24th and not 24rd.
I suggested previously 28th June, but after checking the calendar, I think 29th is better.

Dear Lobo, We rely on you completely with choose of time and the place. Any day that works for you is fine with us.
I remember reading about Saint Anthony celebration in one of Matt’s posts. Hope you had lots of fun last night.

With 29th being the holiday, will museums and Castelo be open that day?

Lisbon City Holiday is 13th June. The 29th June AFAIK is an ordinary working day. I wish we had all and every saint's day as a city holiday, but that's not possible
I prefer 29th since it's Friday and we have more peace of mind thinking that the next day is not a working day. If you like the idea, after the sardines, we can move to Bairro Alto to a Fado Club to have some (more) drinks.
How is Mr Travelfirst Portuguese language pronunciation going? At least from the writen form, if he is able to read French, he should be able to read Portuguese since Latin is behind both languages. Even English is not that different.
I left some notes on your itinerary on other thread.
KR/Joao

Yes I spoke with Joao over St Antonio and am really looking forward to hooking up. Drop me an email at liz.matt@netcabo.pt and go from there.

Take care and safe flight.

Matt

Liz and Matt, I sent you an email, are you still around. Thanks for all your great info!!
johnb
marlton,nj

First, thanks to you all for so much great information about Lisbon and Portugal.
I am meeting up with a Tauck tour of Portugal and Spain starting the afternoon of October 21, 2007. Since I arrive in Lisbon the morning of the 20th, I would really appreciate some suggestions for sightseeing on my own. What should I see in the two half-days before the tour?
Also, if the Lisbon Dining Club is still meeting, I would love to join you on the evening of October 20th.

Hello GrandMa
Please check the 1st post of "thinks to do in and around Lisbon part I", posted by Matt_from_England. That 1st and original post comprehends what you are looking to.

Matt-We would like to join the LDC if it is still going strong Sept 2008.I am hoping to spend 4 days in Lisbon (Our trip also includes Madeira & the Algarve area with some nights maybe in Castelo de Vide & Evora.We were in Portugal in 89 & I knew I'd go back. Now as I'm researching it I'm seeing one more trip is not enough. This site is so helpful-Thanks all Chris

Hi Matt and Lobo,

We (two couples and two kids age 1.5 and 2.5) will be in Lisbon from Nov 21-25 (just bought our tickets and are VERY excited!). If you guys have any LDC meetings planned, would love to join (esp in a non-touristy fado place). Is it OK to bring the kids on these outings? Both of them love to sampel new food (sushi, prosciutto, goat cheese, are big favorites) but of course being toddlers, they are subject to the occasional meltdown!
Looking forward to hearing from you!

Econmom, I'm affraid LDC was temporarily put in hold due to other commitments of the founding members. However, at least for a drink and/or local support, Loba and I are always available.
Toddlers in a Fado Club are not a problem per se, but if they start crying of doing noise, it might be embarassing for you to listen to a lot of shhhhhhh signals. You should go with them early in the night. I think that in a Fado Club with performances between 8pm and 2 am next day, you should target your presence there in the period 8pm - 10pm. To avoid any unpleasant surprise, I'd suggest to to call in advance to know their policies towards children. If you want, I can make some contacts on your behalf, and then let you know.
Feel free to email, call, text, etc anytime

Thanks a lot, Lobo. I'll get in touch with you closer to the date, so that I can get more info/details. And I'll keep checking in case the LDC starts up again!

Matt & Lobos...

Will the LDC be available during the week between Christmas and New Year's? How long is it "on hold"?

Is Matt still around? I have sent him a couple of emails with no reply?
johnb

Thanks for correction. English prepositions are killing me.
Keep us updated on your plans, either here or by email. Loba and Lobo are hosting a micro ADC (Alentejo Dining Club) next 13th August. We can always do something similar in December. Insh'Allah.

"Put on hold" is a figure of speech. No way to figure out which preposition makes sense, it's just a whole phrase that goes together.

Is no one going to tell me what happened to Matt?

Bookmarking for a future trip to Lisbon. Sounds wonderful and I hope the LDC begins again before I arrive.

Have to admit that I haven't read all the posts, but did spend a good hour reading lots.

SIL and I will be in Lisbon one night--and would love to do LDC if it happens to fall with others: 5/22/2008. Just keep us in mind.

I will be in Lisbon in late November! Thanks for all the tips! I hope the LDC is up and running again soon...

The fodorites who attended the Lisbon Dining Club event in Pateo da Memoria on 27th May 2006 may recognize Ricardo Ribeiro ( http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/Matt_from_England/ldc24.jpg ) starring in the recently releases film Fados from Carlos Saura ( http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1056422/ )