daviescj

Ciao from Bill and Carla!

This was our first trip to Italy. Why'd we go? It had always been my passion to visit Italy---Tuscany in particular. On September 3rd (at granddaughter Emma's 2nd birthday party) I basically stamped my foot and announced to my husband Bill, "We're going NOW." For two weeks prior to "the decision", it seemed everyone I bumped into (even a cashier at Trader Joe's) had just been or would be leaving soon for Italy. I was my only hold up. Reservations were made within a week. After watching Netflix DVD documentaries about the Roman and Medici Empires and travelogues about Italy, we left on 10/22. We flew American Airlines from Los Angeles to London and British Airways from London to Rome. The only way I'd buy a house in Tuscany would be if I owned a jet. That is a loooooong flight. We chose not to travel with a tour and not to purchase tours once we arrived in Italy. We are happy with that decision because our goal was NOT to race through Italy. Three of our 11 days involved the travel/nine hour time difference so we only had 8 actual days in Italy.

10/23-10/25: Rome was awesome, overwhelming, bustling and noisy but you HAVE to see it. We spent one full day and one short evening touring Rome using our feet and taxi---oh yes---and another half day trying to exit Rome. The first day we eagerly headed towards the Trevi Fountain --- as we skirted taxi's and Bill's favorite little SMART cars (http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/5217861). Bill had his money belt securely in place and I clutched my purse so that a Vespa-riding Italian gypsy wouldn't snatch it (we’d been warned). We snapped pictures of the Trevi during the day and returned that evening just to gaze and sigh. I didn't know if I should throw a Euro or a US coin into the fountain. To insure my return to Italy, I threw one of each. Speaking of throwing, before we were allowed into St. Peter's, Bill had to throw away a pocketknife given to him by son-in-law Steve. We viewed the Colosseum (and most of Rome) from the Monument to Victor Emmanuel (known as the "wedding cake" or, unaffectionately, "The typewriter&quot. Both are massive. We had 'tea' at Babington's in the Piazza di Spagna (next to the Spanish Steps). We bumped into the Pantheon (not to be confused with the Trevi Pantheon). Just when you think you have seen the biggest and the best Rome has to offer, you turn the corner and WHAM! --- another monument or statue.
We were not attacked by any gypsies the entire trip…and by the way, when they are not picking pockets, they caravan in motor homes.

Too much time was spent picking up our rental car in order to exit Rome. The taxi dropped us two blocks from Europcar near the Villa Borghese. This might be convenient when you are NOT pulling four suitcases and three carry-ons. The agent wasn't real concerned about helping us get out of Rome and so we partially blame him for the two hours it took us to find the illusive G.R.A towards the A1/Firenze---to Cortona. Next time we'll pick up the car from the Leonardo Da Vinci Airport. Driving in Tuscany is really not bad...at least not on the Autostrada and various other "no name/no number roads". The roads are in great condition and the driver's know what they are doing. Bill quickly got used to the speed and loved our Renault six-speed. My only request was that he slows down once he'd exit the Autostrada or other major roads and began driving around the small cities --- also when we approached directional signs (love that Camucia/Cortona turn around). He had a hard time with that so I gave him a hard time and then he'd give me a harder time and so on. However, we eventually figured out that all roads do lead to Rome or Firenze (Florence). It’s IMPOSSIBLE to find which road you were on but EASY to know what city you are in or near.

10/25-10/31: In Tuscany breakfast was always leisurely and there we'd trade info with other tourists and then discuss the plan for the day which usually involved a visit to an ancient walled city, fall-colored vineyard or olive grove--trees dripping with black olives. We LOVED Tuscany and visited typical Tuscan hill-town walled cities/villages: Cortona, Pienza, Montepulchiano, Siena, San Gimignano, and Montalcino, Montereggiano and one in Umbria--Assisi, where we attempted to order Chianti. That's a definite no-no in Umbria-land. I'd read about walled cities but hadn't accurately visualized one. Each has a unique personality---some have larger piazzas and more ornate duomo's and some have more flowers on their windowsills and more shops. Each of them has stone buildings and narrow cobbled streets that wend around and up and down (and up again). At the top looking down, you see the tiled roofs of the buildings below and piazza's--and always the laundry. Many of the shops open up into dirt-walled caves. Of course, the city walls were for purposes of defense. Cortona was our home base and our favorite city. It is an Etruscan city that pre-dates Roman times with sections of its walls dating back 2500 years. We visited the Cortona Etruscan Academy and Museum. If you have seen the movie Under the Tuscan Sun, you have heard of Cortona. Hotel Cory’s is just outside and within walking distance of the walled city of Cortona, as is the real Bramasole. This house was made famous by author Frances Mayes who wrote the book on which the movie was very very loosely based (http://www.randomhouse.com/features/mayes/ ). Along with hubby Ed, they bought, restored, and then she wrote a book about the process. During our second visit to the house (Bill thinks I'm obsessed) we had an opportunity to talk to Ed Mayes' sister. She was on a three-week visit to help pick olives from their 200 trees. They sell their olive oil (http://www.thetuscansun.com/ ). I included my email address when I signed Bramasole's visitor’s book located at a Madonna and Child wall alter. I expect an email from Frances momentarily.

After our third attempt at finding Lake Trasimeno, we gave up. I mean how can one lose a huge lake? Well part of the reason was the fog. Almost every morning there was a thick layer of fog that wouldn't burn off until late afternoon. Hotel Corys was above the fog. We spent that time driving to and spending the day in the walled cities away from the fog. On the worst of the foggiest days, we accidentally found and visited one winery--Fattoria de Palazzo Vecchio in Valian on our way to Montepulciano. They sell wine and are a vendita diretta (sold direct… or direct seller) not to be confused with a vendita diretta of formaggio (cheese)". We think the winery thought we were there to purchase cases so they treated us like VIP’s. We only bought one bottle. Most days we would drive to our destination, park, and walk. Walking is what Italians do. Since most of the walled cities are Zone a Traffico Limitato (limited traffic zone), you have no choice but to walk. Our leather walking shoes were the best! We actually enjoyed walking up and down and all around (sometimes twice when we got lost). We vowed to make walking a priority at home. Anyway, it's the only way to see and capture Italy. On our Sony Handycam we recorded eleven 8cm DVD's and on our Kodak digital about 300 still shots of charming alley ways, arches, shuttered windows, flower pots/planters, hanging laundry, ceramic shops, cheese shops, piazzas, duomos, vineyards, rolling hills, olive groves, farmhouses, and the locals on a Saturday night in Piazza Signorelli and Piazza della Repubblica in Cortona. All this walking tuckered me a couple of times, so I leaned against a wall in Siena to rest. Bill had warned me NOT to do that with pigeons perched above. Well Bill used his comb to remove pigeon poop from my hair. Later he told me that he scrubbed his comb with my toothbrush! Now, you KNOW he wouldn’t do that to me (??)

I'd searched Fodors and Trip Advisor, and In Italy (http://www.initaly.com) for Rome hotel recommendations. I found out about Hotel Corys (http://www.corys.it/inglese/home_eng.htm) from reading Frances Mayes' books. We stayed two nights at the Hotel Britannia in Rome (http://www.hotelbritannia.it/home.htm) -- quaint, old world, two-person elevator, three floors, small room and bathroom, very narrow tub. The website makes it look much grander than it is though. We stayed six nights at the Hotel Corys in Cortona -- seven rooms, two floors, simple decor, spectacular view of the Valdichiana (Chiana Valley), and great ristorante. The staff was professional and personable. Renato, the owner of Hotel Corys, offered a tour of his 400+year old home across the street. The first night at Hotel Corys we stuffed ourselves on a delicious porcini five-course dinner. That same evening we walked to, around, and from the walled city of Cortona and felt much better (a total of 6 km). We could not find a laundromat in Cortona. I read that there are no clothes dryers in Italy. Hotel Corys acted like it was an unusual request for us to require a laundry service. Actually, we weren't in dire need but sent out six pair of pants and one sweatshirt for a total of 45 Euro ($52 US). It's all down the "drain" anyway because when they were returned they felt, looked and smelled funny---they were washed as soon as we got home. Since we had an early morning return flight home on 11/1, I chose a hotel ten minutes from the airport: Rome Airport Hotel (Courtyard Marriott) (http://marriott.com/property/propert...rshaCode=ROMCY). It was nicer than any Marriott I've stayed --- more on the level of a W Hotel. We loved the details at Hotel Corys and Hotel Britannia such as the at least 400 thread-count sheets (I bought some as soon as we returned home), complimentary slippers, Perigina chocolates and full breakfast. I gave up using their hairdryer-hoses --- don't even think they can be used for styling. I didn't attempt to figure out the Bidets at any of the three hotels but I can't speak for Bill (this time).

Along the way we chatted with other tourist's---people from Canada, Portland, Seattle, Hawaii. The locals we spoke to were mostly shop owners or hotel staff and they were all professional and pleasant. They dress with a simple sophistication. The uniform for women over 70 seems to be a straight wool skirt, simple pullover sweater, quilted jacket, stockings and sensible shoes. Other ages wear mostly black--leather boots, jacket, black pants. Communicating was not a problema. Learn boun giorno (good morning), and grazie (thank you), quanto (how much), ciao (hello), arrivederci (good bye), per favore (please) mangiare (eat) and, of course, VINO (needs no translation). I saw signs in shops that read maglietta. My eyes popped because my maiden name is Maglietto. I found out that maglietta means T-SHIRT! My cousin Nancianne informs me that Maglietto means "hammer". According to the Italian-to-English translator I checked maglietto just means maglietto. According to Nanci, who has spent a lot of time researching our family tree, the name originated in the region of Piedmont.... in Assisi, actually, around the time of St. Francis of Assisi.
Esoteric dictionary: http://translate.google.com/translat...lr%3D%26sa%3DG


What can I say about the food! Mangia! Mangia! It was wonderful--light and simple. Try some pasta mixed with just olive oil and salt and pepper—no garlic. We got used to the salt-less bread (but still prefer salted). Bill tried eel, boar stew, and boar sausage. We both fell in love with the porcini mushroom and more in love with pecorino cheese. I slurped up pistachio and walnut gelato. Hotel Corys served biscotti called “Brutti ma buoni” (literally means "awful but good" --except that it's delicious! It's a drop pine-nut cookie but, after searching the web, I find there are many variations of this cookie. They don't make theirs with chocolate. Silvia, the hotel clerk, extracted the recipe from their chef and typed it. Could I have been the only guest to ever request the recipe?
I had to convert the grams to something understandable. Cortona has many really good ristorantes:
Hostaria La Bucaccia (http://www.labucaccia.it/ on via Ghibellina). They have won awards for authentic
Tuscan food. Other ristorantes: Taverna Pane e Vino (basically an Etruscan cave--- http://www.pane-vino.it/
Piazza Signorelli), Ristorante Il Cacciatore (Via Roma), and, Ristorante/Hotel Corys. Twice we attempted to make reservations at Ristorante Tonino (http://www.ristorantetonino.com/ ) but they were booked (and attitudy about it). We'd heard about Toninos from the director of the movie Under the Tuscan Sun. In Sienna: Osteria da Cice (Via San Pietro). In San Gimignano for pranzo (lunch), we had a piece of yummy pizza---Naples-style thin crispy crust topped with fontina and mozzarella cheese. Now imagine yourself sitting under an umbrella at a small round tavolo (table) in Siena's Piazza Del Campo sipping a cappuccino. Parts of "Il Campo", as the locals call it, were built between the 12th and 14th centuries. This is surreal but absolutely REAL! I had to keep saying, “This is NOT a movie studio back lot!” The one thing all ristorantes have in common is uncomfortable chairs. They are these little wooden things with weaved seats. Considering Italians spend so much time at the tavolo, you'd think they would want a soft place to sit! Of course, the locals are very fit from all the walking they do, so their rears fit better! One unexpected great meal was found at O'Neill's Pub at the Heathrow Airport in London---delicious colcannon.

The first question I learned in Italian was Quanto Costa? (How much does it cost?) We didn't buy many souvenirs--just brought home one small suitcase full of small items. Much to some people’s astonishment, we did not bring home Italian leather jackets, purses, or shoes. Hey, I can buy Italian leather at TJ Maxx! However, we bought several leather items from Heathrow Airport. Bill found a leather beer mug and I found leather bookmarks. We also found really nice scarves made in Scotland. Before I bought the scarves, I asked, "Where are these made?" “Scotland” was the answer (and I verified the label). Bill thinks everything is made in China. From Tuscany we brought home a wheel of pecorino, sunflower honey, balsamic, dried porcini, ceramic painted bottle stoppers and pitchers, ceramic plate and trinket boxes uniquely painted in Siena by www.studioartistico.it . We bought our two son-in-laws 'sword' letter openers. From Assisi: matching blue striped, hand-embroidered dresses for Emma and Mandy, and a cross necklace for Jordyn to put into her ceramic unicorn trinket box from Siena, I found a holy water wall receptacle made by Assisi monks. It has three sculptured angel faces at the top that remind me of the sweet faces of our three granddaughters. We bought pashminas, olive wood ladles, nutcrackers, and wine bottle stoppers, hand-embroidered bags of lavender, and a Madonna and Child Della Robbia (which will eventually be placed near the grape-leaf covered arbor Bill will construct off the side deck. That was my idea #826.) I bought it because it's pretty and not because I'm Catholic and besides, Frances Mayes has one too! I found a marble fig in Rome -- looks edible! Oh, and rocks from the ground near Bramasole’s wall. The Italian shopkeepers really do take their 1-4PM “breaks” seriously. Customers or not, they lock up their shop to mangia (eat) and/or to pisolino (nap). Many ristorantes remain open during this time.

It was 10/31 (Halloween) and our last morning in Cortona. While packing I threw open the shutters to get one last view of the Valdichiana. There was just a thin layer of fog that morning. A raven flew into our room and perched atop the desk chair back and promptly pee’d on a stack of plastic bags sitting on the chair. He then flew back to the windowsill where Bill already had placed broken bits of cashews. I momentarily freaked because I was sure this was a bad omen. I mean a RAVEN flying into one's room on HALLOWEEN just HAS to be a BAD sign! But I got over it and fed him too. Later, Silvia said that it's good luck and that Corvo's (Raven's) are like a "man or human". When we returned home, I searched the Internet and found and focused in on the good folklore: If a raven perches on a house in Wales, it will bring prosperity to the family within. In legends, the Raven is an animal almost universally exalted and accepted as symbolically being associated with the soul, as a messenger of the gods, a carrier of souls, an oracle or seen to possess the spirit of loved ones whilst also being a symbol of good or evil.

Rather than to take the Autostrada directly back to Rome where we would spend our last night, I decided that it would be fun to drive across to Grosseto to get a glimpse of the Ligurian Sea. I again tried finding Italian music on the radio. Nothing! Not even Frank or Dean. All we found was American music and talk/news shows. The lack of Italian music was a disappointment this trip. We did hear bits of a guitar player in Assisi and one in Cortona and harpsichord musicians playing in a piazza in San Gimignano. Bill liked one so well, that he bought a CD. Hotel Corys played an Andrea Bocelli’s Romanza CD non-stop. That's it! The radio was turned off for good. We stopped in Montalcino at an alimentary (grocer) to buy fontina, bread and olives for a picnic that we planned to eat later.
The grocer did not speak any English but hand gestures worked fine. We pulled into a beautiful vineyard near some large rocks, opened a bottle of wine and pigged out. Bill had purchased a salsiccia di cinghiale (wild boar sausage) a few days before and hadn't had a chance to try it. He consumed half of it. I thought it was brutti! He left the remainder in the mini-fridge of the Marriott. I'd been craving olives and couldn't wait to sink my teeth into one. Again, bruitti, however, the picnic was lovely. We continued on towards Grosetto. On the map I noticed a coastal town called Ansedonia that was right at the sea. The driver became tense. Then I saw the exit. I yelled, “TAKE THAT EXIT!” This is a phrase men just love to hear. We drove quite a ways down and through a winding road past adorable beach cottages where the road finally ended at the entrance of a village taverna. By that time we needed a drink. We threw back a 'double' espresso while watching the crashing waves. You could see Monte Argentario across the water. There is a way to drive there. On a return trip I’d like to see Port Santo Stefano. Around us were cliffs, ruins, sheep, and unique coastal homes. All this calmed "Mario Andretti" and me down. The sun was setting. It was time to get serious about returning the car to the Leonardo Da Vinci airport. Arrivederci Italy!

---------------------
Our animals, Coco, Matey, and Jibbers were spoiled rotten by The Roach family and my daughter Jenny. They didn't miss us a bit.

My Italian roots: my paternal grandmother’s family (Papas and Carnevales) were from San Fele, Potenza, Basilacata (that's at the instep of the boot) and my paternal grandfather’s family (Maglietto) were from Foggia. The 'g' in Maglietto is silent. I'm the worst with foreign words. I was pronouncing San Gimignano as San G MIG NON YO instead of San JIM YANO. And it went like that our entire trip. My ancestors are rolling in their graves! I searched the Rome Internet white pages and found many Maglietto’s. However, this trip I wasn’t in Italy to look up cousin’s many times removed---perhaps next time.

SeaUrchin

Thank you, Carla. What a great read, really enjoyed "traveling" with you here on Fodors. (I've taken notes too)

SeaUrchin

BTW, is this your first post on Fodors?

LoveItaly

Beautiful and fun trip report Carla, an interesting read!!! You obviously had a wonderful time in Italy. Oh yes, the Mario Andretti husband driver, I can relate, LOL!! Hope you two can return to Italy soon.

MichelleY

Dear Carla & Bill:

This is what I posted on the US site:

Very nice report! My maternal grandparents were from Moliterno, Potenza. My mom, sis, and I visited the area 3 years ago. Basilicata will have to be part of your next trip to Italy.

MY

daviescj

Davies’ in Italy, 2005
VERSION 9
(as of 11/21/05)
Ciao from Bill and Carla!

This was our first trip to Italy. Why'd we go? It had always been my passion to visit Italy---Tuscany in particular. On September 3rd (at granddaughter Emma's 2nd birthday party) I basically stamped my foot and announced to my husband Bill, "We're going NOW." For two weeks prior to "the decision", it seemed everyone I bumped into (even a cashier at Trader Joe's) had just been or would be leaving soon for Italy. I was my only hold up. Reservations were made within a week. After watching Netflix DVD documentaries about the Roman and Medici Empires and travelogues about Italy, we left on 10/22. We flew American Airlines from Los Angeles to London and British Airways from London to Rome. The only way I'd buy a house in Tuscany would be if I owned a jet. That is a loooooong flight. We chose not to travel with a tour and not to purchase tours once we arrived in Italy. We are happy with that decision because our goal was NOT to race through Italy. Three of our 11 days involved the travel/nine hour time difference so we only had eight actual days in Italy.

10/23-10/25: Rome was awesome, overwhelming, bustling and noisy but you HAVE to see it. We spent one full day and one short evening touring Rome using our feet and taxi----oh yes---and another half day trying to exit Rome. The first day we eagerly headed towards the Trevi Fountain --- as we skirted taxi's and Bill's favorite little SMART cars (http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/5217861). Bill had his money belt securely in place and I clutched my purse so that a Vespa-riding Italian gypsy wouldn't snatch it (we’d been warned). We snapped pictures of the Trevi during the day and returned that evening just to gaze and sigh. I didn't know if I should throw a Euro or a US coin into the fountain. To insure my return to Italy, I threw one of each. Speaking of throwing, before we were allowed into St. Peter's, Bill had to throw away a pocketknife given to him by son-in-law Steve. We viewed the Colosseum (and most of Rome) from the Monument to Victor Emmanuel (known as the "wedding cake" or, unaffectionately, "The typewriter&quot. Both are massive. We had 'tea' at Babington's in the Piazza di Spagna (next to the Spanish Steps). We bumped into the Pantheon (not to be confused with the Trevi Pantheon). Just when you think you have seen the biggest and the best Rome has to offer, you turn the corner and WHAM! --- another monument or statue.
We were not attacked by any gypsies the entire trip. We did check all our pockets, etc after a suspicious-looking guy in Cortona wanted to look through our Handycam. As we were roaming the countryside, we saw what looked like gypsies in motor home caravans http://www.findarticles.com/p/articl...01/ai_80744519 .

Too much time was spent picking up our rental car in order to exit Rome. The taxi dropped us two blocks from Europcar near the Villa Borghese. This might be convenient when you are NOT pulling four suitcases and three carry-ons. The agent wasn't real concerned about helping us get out of Rome and so we partially blame him for the two hours it took us to find the illusive G.R.A towards the A1/Firenze---to Cortona. Next time we'll pick up the car from the Leonardo Da Vinci Airport. Driving in Tuscany is really not bad...at least not on the Autostrada and various other "no name/no number roads". The roads are in great condition and the driver's know what they are doing. Bill quickly got used to the speed and loved our Renault six-speed. My only request was that he slows down once he'd exit the Autostrada or other major roads and began driving around the small cities --- also when we approached directional signs (love that Camucia/Cortona turn around). He had a hard time with that so I gave him a hard time and then he'd give me a harder time and so on. However, we eventually figured out that all roads do lead to Roma (Rome) or Firenze (Florence). It’s IMPOSSIBLE to find which road you were on but EASY to know what city you are in or near.

10/25-10/31: In Tuscany breakfast was always leisurely and there we'd trade info with other tourists and then discuss the plan for the day which usually involved a visit to an ancient walled city, fall-colored vineyard or olive grove---trees dripping with black olives. We LOVED Tuscany and visited typical Tuscan hill-town walled cities/villages: Cortona, Pienza, Montepulchiano, Siena, San Gimignano, Montalcino, and Montereggiano. We crossed the 'border' to Umbria in order to visit Assisi, where we attempted to order Chianti. That's a definite
no-no in Umbria-land. I'd read about walled cities but hadn't accurately visualized one. Each has a unique personality---some have larger piazzas and more ornate duomo's and some have more flowers on their windowsills and more shops. Each of them has stone buildings and narrow cobbled streets that wend around and up and down (and up again). At the top looking down, you see the piazza's and tiled roofs of the casas below ---and always the laundry. Many of the negozi (shops) open up into dirt-walled caves. Of course, the city walls were for purposes of defense. Cortona was our home base and our favorite city. It is an Etruscan city that pre-dates Roman times with sections of its walls dating back 2500 years. We visited the Cortona Etruscan Academy and Museum. If you have seen the movie Under the Tuscan Sun, you have heard of Cortona. Hotel Cory’s is just outside and within walking distance of the walled city of Cortona, as is the real Bramasole. This house was made famous by author Frances Mayes who wrote the book on which the movie was very very loosely based (http://www.randomhouse.com/features/mayes/ ). Along with hubby Ed, they bought Bramasole, restored it, and then she wrote a book about the process. During our second visit to the house (Bill thinks I'm obsessed) we had an opportunity to talk to Ed Mayes' sister. She was on a three-week visit to help pick olives from their 200 trees. They sell their olive oil (http://www.thetuscansun.com/ ). When I signed Bramasole's visitor’s book located at a Madonna and Child wall alter, I included my email address. I expect an email from Frances momentarily.

After our third attempt at finding Lake Trasimeno, we gave up. I mean how can one lose a huge lake? Well part of the reason was the fog. Almost every morning there was a thick layer of fog that wouldn't burn off until late afternoon. Hotel Corys was above the fog. We spent that time driving to and spending the day in the walled cities away from the fog. On the worst of the foggiest days, we accidentally found and visited one winery---Fattoria de Palazzo Vecchio in Valian on our way to Montepulciano. They sell wine and are a vendita diretta (sold direct… or direct seller) not to be confused with a vendita diretta of formaggio (cheese). We think the winery thought we were there to purchase cases so they treated us like VIP’s. We only bought one bottle. Most days we would drive to our destination, park, and walk. Walking is what Italians do. Since most of the walled cities are Zone a Traffico Limitato (limited traffic zone), you have no choice but to walk. Our leather walking shoes were the best! We actually enjoyed walking up and down and all around (sometimes twice when we got lost). We vowed to make walking a priority at home. Anyway, it's the only way to see and capture Italy. On our Sony Handycam we recorded eleven 8cm DVD's and on our Kodak digital about 300 still shots of narrow alley ways, arches, shuttered windows, flower pots/planters, hanging laundry, ceramic shops, cheese shops, piazzas, duomos, vineyards, rolling hills, olive groves, farmhouses, and the locals on a Saturday night in Piazza Signorelli and Piazza della Repubblica in Cortona. All this walking tuckered me a couple of times, so I leaned against a wall in Siena to rest. Bill had warned me NOT to do that with pigeons perched above. Well Bill used his comb to remove pigeon poop from my hair. Later he told me that he scrubbed his comb with my toothbrush! Now, you KNOW he wouldn’t do that to me (??)

I'd searched Fodors and Trip Advisor, and In Italy (http://www.initaly.com) for Rome hotel recommendations. I found out about Hotel Corys (http://www.corys.it/inglese/home_eng.htm) from reading Frances Mayes' books. We stayed two nights at the Hotel Britannia in Rome (http://www.hotelbritannia.it/home.htm) ---quaint, old world, two-person elevator, three floors, small room and bathroom, very narrow tub. The website makes it look much grander than it is though. We stayed six nights at the Hotel Corys in Cortona ---seven rooms, two floors, simple decor, spectacular view of the Valdichiana (Chiana Valley), and great ristorante. The staff was professional and personable. Renato, the owner of Hotel Corys, offered a tour of his 400+year old home across the street. The first night at Hotel Corys we stuffed ourselves on a delicious porcini five-course dinner. That same evening we walked to, around, and from the walled city of Cortona and felt much better (a total of 6 km). We could not find a laundromat in Cortona. I read that there are no clothes dryers in Italy. Actually, we weren't in dire need of laundry service but sent out six pair of pants and one sweatshirt for a total of 45 Euro ($52 US). It's all down the "drain" anyway because when they were returned they felt, looked and smelled funny---they were washed as soon as we got home. Since we had an early morning return flight home on 11/1, I chose a hotel ten minutes from the airport: Rome Airport Hotel (Courtyard Marriott) (http://marriott.com/property/propert...rshaCode=ROMCY). It was nicer than any Marriott I've stayed --- more on the level of a W Hotel. We loved the details at Hotel Corys and Hotel Britannia such as the at least 400 thread-count sheets (I bought some as soon as we returned home), complimentary slippers, Perigina chocolates and full breakfast. I gave up using their hairdryer-hoses --- don't even think they can be used for styling. I didn't attempt to figure out the Bidets at any of the three hotels but I can't speak for Bill (this time).

Along the way we chatted with other tourist's --- people from Canada, Portland, Seattle, Hawaii. The locals we spoke to were mostly shop owners or hotel staff and they were all professional and pleasant. They dress with a simple sophistication. The uniform for women over 70 seems to be a straight wool skirt, simple pullover sweater, quilted jacket, stockings and sensible shoes. Other ages wear mostly black---leather boots, jacket, and pants. Communicating was not a problema. Learn boun giorno (good morning), and grazie (thank you), quanto (how much), ciao (hello), arrivederci (good bye), per favore (please) mangiare (eat) and, of course, VINO (needs no translation). I saw signs in shops that read maglietta. My eyes popped because my maiden name is Maglietto. I found out that maglietta means T-SHIRT! My cousin Nancianne has spent a lot of time researching our family tree. She informs me that the meaning of Maglietto is "gavel" and that the name originated in the region of Piedmont.... in Assisi, actually, around the time of St. Francis of Assisi. My Italian roots: my paternal grandmother’s family (Papas and Carnevales) were from San Fele, Potenza, Basilacata (that's at the instep of the boot) and my paternal grandfather’s family (Maglietto) were from Foggia. I searched the Rome Internet white pages and found many Maglietto’s. However, this trip I wasn’t in Italy to look up cousin’s many times removed----perhaps next time. The 'g' in Maglietto is silent. I'm the worst with foreign words. I was pronouncing San Gimignano as San G MIG NON YO instead of San JIM YANO. And it went like that our entire trip. My ancestors are rolling in their graves!

What can I say about the food! Mangia! Mangia! It was wonderful---light and simple. Try some pasta mixed with just olive oil and salt and pepper—no garlic. We got used to the salt-less bread (but still prefer salted). Bill tried eel, boar stew, and boar sausage. We both fell in love with the porcini mushroom and more in love with pecorino cheese. I slurped up pistachio and walnut gelato. Hotel Corys served biscotti called “Brutti ma buoni” (literally means "awful but good" ---except that it's delicious! It's a drop pine-nut cookie but, after searching the web, I find there are many variations of this cookie. They don't make theirs with chocolate. Silvia, the hotel clerk, extracted the recipe from their chef and typed it. Could I have been the only guest to ever request the recipe?
I had to convert the grams to something understandable. Cortona has many really good ristorantes:
Hostaria La Bucaccia (http://www.labucaccia.it/ on via Ghibellina). They have won awards for authentic
Tuscan food. Other ristorantes: Taverna Pane e Vino (basically an Etruscan cave--- http://www.pane-vino.it/
Piazza Signorelli), Ristorante Il Cacciatore (Via Roma), and, Ristorante/Hotel Corys. Twice we attempted to make reservations at Ristorante Tonino (http://www.ristorantetonino.com/ ) but they were booked (and attitudy about it). We'd heard about Toninos from the director of the movie Under the Tuscan Sun. In Siena: Osteria da Cice (Via San Pietro). In San Gimignano for pranzo (lunch), we had a piece of yummy pizza---Naples-style thin crispy crust topped with fontina and mozzarella cheese. Now imagine yourself sitting under an umbrella at a small round tavolo (table) in Siena's Piazza Del Campo sipping a cappuccino. Parts of "Il Campo", as the locals call it, were built between the 12th and 14th centuries. This is surreal but absolutely REAL! I had to keep saying, “This is NOT a movie studio back lot!” The one thing all ristorantes have in common is uncomfortable chairs. They are these little wooden things with weaved seats. Considering Italians spend so much time at the tavolo, you'd think they would want a soft place to sit! Of course, the locals are very fit from all the walking they do, so their rears fit better! One unexpected good meal was found at O'Neill's Pub at the Heathrow Airport in London---delicious colcannon.

The first question I learned in Italian was Quanto Costa? (How much does it cost?) We didn't buy many souvenirs; just brought home one small suitcase full of small items. Much to some people’s astonishment, we did not bring home Italian leather jackets, purses, or shoes. Hey, I can buy Italian leather at TJ Maxx! However, we bought several leather items from Heathrow Airport. Bill found a leather beer mug and I found leather bookmarks. We also found really nice scarves made in Scotland. Before I bought them, I asked, "Where are these made?" “Scotland” was the answer (and I verified the label). Bill thinks everything is made in China. I found a marble fig in Rome; looks edible! From Tuscany we brought home a wheel of pecorino, sunflower honey, balsamic, dried porcini, ceramic painted bottle stoppers and pitchers, ceramic plate and trinket boxes uniquely painted in Siena by www.studioartistico.it . We bought our two son-in-laws 'sword' letter openers. From Assisi: matching blue striped, hand-embroidered dresses for Emma and Mandy, and a cross necklace for Jordyn to put into her ceramic unicorn trinket box from Siena, I found a holy water wall receptacle made by Assisi monks. It has three sculptured angel faces at the top that remind me of the sweet faces of our three granddaughters. We bought pashminas, olive wood ladles, nutcrackers, and wine bottle stoppers, hand-embroidered bags of lavender, and a Madonna and Child Della Robbia (which will eventually be placed near the grape-leaf covered arbor Bill will construct off the side deck. That was my idea #826.) I bought it because it's pretty and not because I'm Catholic and besides, Frances Mayes has one too! Oh, and rocks from the ground near Bramasole’s wall. The Italian shopkeepers really do take their 1-4PM “breaks” seriously. Customers or not, they lock up their shop to mangia (eat) and/or to pisolino (nap). Many ristorantes remain open during this time.

It was 10/31 (Halloween) and our last morning in Cortona. While packing I threw open the shutters to get one last view of the Valdichiana. There was just a thin layer of fog that morning. A raven flew into our room and perched atop the desk chair back and promptly pee’d on a stack of plastic bags sitting on the chair. He then flew back to the windowsill where Bill already had placed broken bits of cashews. I momentarily freaked because I was sure this was a bad omen. I mean a RAVEN flying into one's room on HALLOWEEN just HAS to be a BAD sign! But I got over it and fed him too. Later, Silvia said that it's good luck and that Corvo's (Raven's) are like a "man or human". When we returned home, I searched the Internet and found and focused in on the good folklore: If a raven perches on a house in Wales, it will bring prosperity to the family within. In legends, the Raven is an animal almost universally exalted and accepted as symbolically being associated with the soul, as a messenger of the gods, a carrier of souls, an oracle or seen to possess the spirit of loved ones whilst also being a symbol of good or evil.

Rather than to take the Autostrada directly back to Rome where we would spend our last night, I decided that it would be fun to drive across to Grosseto to get a glimpse of the Ligurian Sea. I again tried finding Italian music on the radio. Nothing! Not even Frank or Dean. All we found was American music and talk/news shows. The lack of Italian music was a disappointment this trip. We did hear bits of a guitar player in Assisi and one in Cortona and harpsichord musicians playing in a piazza in San Gimignano. Bill liked one so well, that he bought a CD. Hotel Corys played an Andrea Bocelli’s Romanza CD non-stop. That's it! The radio was turned off for good. We stopped in Montalcino at an alimentary (grocer) to buy fontina, bread and olives for a picnic. The grocer did not speak any English but hand gestures worked fine. We pulled into a colorful vineyard near some large rocks, opened a bottle of wine and pigged out. Bill had purchased a salsiccia di cinghiale (wild boar sausage) a few days before and hadn't had a chance to try it. He consumed half of it. I thought it was brutti! He left the remainder in the mini-fridge of the Marriott. I'd been craving olives and couldn't wait to sink my teeth into one. Again, bruitti; however, our picnic was lovely. We continued on towards Grosetto. On the map I noticed (and mentioned to Bill) that the coastal town of Ansedonia was right at the sea. The driver became tense. Then I saw the exit. I yelled, “TAKE THAT EXIT!” This is a phrase men just love to hear. We drove quite a ways down and through a winding road past adorable beach cottages where the road finally ended at the entrance of a village taverna. By that time we needed a drink. We threw back a 'double' espresso while watching the crashing waves. I spotted Monte Argentario. It looks like it's an island but there is a way to drive there. On a return trip I’d like to visit Port Santo Stefano. Around us were cliffs, ruins, charming coastal homes, and even sheep. All this calmed "Mario Andretti" and me down. The sun was setting. It was time to get serious about returning the car to the Leonardo Da Vinci airport. Arrivederci Italy!

---------------------
Our animals, Coco, Matey, and Jibbers were spoiled rotten by The Roach family and my daughter Jenny. They didn't miss us a bit.

dina4

ttt

ira

Thanks for sharing.

yeadonite

Nice report!!!