Switzerland itinerary check Lauterbrunnen/Appenzell, hiking attire?
Aug 6th, 2012, 03:09 PM
#1
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Switzerland itinerary check Lauterbrunnen/Appenzell, hiking attire?
I have done some research and so far have reserved 7 nights in October in Lauterbrunnen. My plan is to arrive in Zurich and get a train to Lauterbrunnen that day. Other option is to stay one night In Zurich. Then stay 7 nights in Lauterbrunnen as a base for hiking in the region. Then, I know that this is out of the way, but I was hoping to spend a few hours one day back and forth on the Bernina Express (or actually the equivalent standard trains) at least for the most scenic part of the route, then I am planning on spending 3 nights in Appenzell for more walking/hiking. Then take train from Appenzell to Zurich for flight home.
So my questions are -- should I add another leisurely night for an 8 night, 7 day stay in Lauterbrunnen if there is a lot to see in the region (e.g. scenic boat rides as I have seen thoroughly described on other posts, visiting Jungfrau and the Falls, Murren and Wengen sides, some downtime, etc.). I was thinking of getting some form of 8 day Swiss pass because with a 3 night stay in Appenzell, most hotels give you the Appenzell card that covers local travel. If I need more than 8 days, maybe the flexipass is an option so I do not use the full pass on days of lighter travel and save a day for my last trip from Appenzell to Zurich.
What are the logistics in getting from Lauterbrunnen to start the Bernina route and then to Appenzell. Is it doable in one day or do I need a separate one night stay somewhere in between?
And I have never been hiking (I am sticking with easy to intermediate routes). Any advice on attire for mid October would be greatly appreciated. I was hoping that comfortable full coverage Merrill walking shoes would do the trick, not sure how heavy a jacket I should have, do I need a hat for the sun?I know to have sunblock. I have been told different things about jackets -- some say stick with windbreakers and a thermal underneath or some form of layering. I also plan on having a collapsible walking pole for downhill ease on my knees.
So my questions are -- should I add another leisurely night for an 8 night, 7 day stay in Lauterbrunnen if there is a lot to see in the region (e.g. scenic boat rides as I have seen thoroughly described on other posts, visiting Jungfrau and the Falls, Murren and Wengen sides, some downtime, etc.). I was thinking of getting some form of 8 day Swiss pass because with a 3 night stay in Appenzell, most hotels give you the Appenzell card that covers local travel. If I need more than 8 days, maybe the flexipass is an option so I do not use the full pass on days of lighter travel and save a day for my last trip from Appenzell to Zurich.
What are the logistics in getting from Lauterbrunnen to start the Bernina route and then to Appenzell. Is it doable in one day or do I need a separate one night stay somewhere in between?
And I have never been hiking (I am sticking with easy to intermediate routes). Any advice on attire for mid October would be greatly appreciated. I was hoping that comfortable full coverage Merrill walking shoes would do the trick, not sure how heavy a jacket I should have, do I need a hat for the sun?I know to have sunblock. I have been told different things about jackets -- some say stick with windbreakers and a thermal underneath or some form of layering. I also plan on having a collapsible walking pole for downhill ease on my knees.
Aug 7th, 2012, 03:51 AM
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Boat excursions are reduced in the month of October (Lakes Thun and Brienz).
Check schedules here:
http://www.bls.ch/e/schifffahrt/fahrplan.php
I hiked the first week in November 2010, though every year can be different. Think layers! Comfortable shoes with a good tread and hiking poles can make or break your day!
I was often sweaty and hot with the exertion under the sun, yet at the top destination, when still, and with a cold wind blowing or snow all around, a medium-thickness jacket is nice!
I used thin gloves just once. A hat and sunscreen are good ideas, if balding or prone to skin cancer of the scalp or ears (otherwise, don't bother with the hat). My nose peeled the day I forgot sunblock!
Sorry, can't advise re the Bernina Express, but train schedules in Switzerland can be accessed at www.sbb.ch and click on the engish or US option. Enter your city of origination, then destination for options.
Others on the forum will 'dis' staying one night in Zurich, but I really like Zurich as a small city. Since it is 2hr 25 min from Lauterbrunnen, it is not a good 'daytrip', but if you can squeeze in a one-night stay enroute, I'd say 'go for it'! If churches (Fraumunster, Grossmunster), museums (Landesmuseum just outside the train station) or shopping are not your interests, skip it. Hotels and restaurants will be expensive. If you go, check with the Tourist Info in a corner of the Hauptbahnhof for info on a daily city orientation tour (2 hrs), I believe at 11 AM and 3 PM daily (reduced frequency in October).
If you click on my name and scroll down to my trip reports, I give a little more info on Zurich from two visits in 2010.
Have a great trip! I myself will be in Brunnen (Lucerne area) for 10 days early October...I'll wave to you from Pilatus or Rigi!
Check schedules here:
http://www.bls.ch/e/schifffahrt/fahrplan.php
I hiked the first week in November 2010, though every year can be different. Think layers! Comfortable shoes with a good tread and hiking poles can make or break your day!
I was often sweaty and hot with the exertion under the sun, yet at the top destination, when still, and with a cold wind blowing or snow all around, a medium-thickness jacket is nice!
I used thin gloves just once. A hat and sunscreen are good ideas, if balding or prone to skin cancer of the scalp or ears (otherwise, don't bother with the hat). My nose peeled the day I forgot sunblock!
Sorry, can't advise re the Bernina Express, but train schedules in Switzerland can be accessed at www.sbb.ch and click on the engish or US option. Enter your city of origination, then destination for options.
Others on the forum will 'dis' staying one night in Zurich, but I really like Zurich as a small city. Since it is 2hr 25 min from Lauterbrunnen, it is not a good 'daytrip', but if you can squeeze in a one-night stay enroute, I'd say 'go for it'! If churches (Fraumunster, Grossmunster), museums (Landesmuseum just outside the train station) or shopping are not your interests, skip it. Hotels and restaurants will be expensive. If you go, check with the Tourist Info in a corner of the Hauptbahnhof for info on a daily city orientation tour (2 hrs), I believe at 11 AM and 3 PM daily (reduced frequency in October).
If you click on my name and scroll down to my trip reports, I give a little more info on Zurich from two visits in 2010.
Have a great trip! I myself will be in Brunnen (Lucerne area) for 10 days early October...I'll wave to you from Pilatus or Rigi!
Aug 7th, 2012, 04:43 AM
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Regarding your trip sequencing, get a detailed map and try to arrange a loop to minimize time spent in transit.
I'm not sure how fixed your lodging dates are...
But for example:
Lauterbrunnen to Chur (by train, start of Bernina route)= 3h50min-4h
Appenzell to Chur = 2-2h30min
Zurich to Chur = 1h22min
Appenzell to Lauterbrunnen = 4h22min
Maybe consider starting (or ending) at Chur with a
night in Chur. IMO the stretch Chur to Poschiavo was especially scenic (takes roughly 3 hr 30min).
Investigate lunch in Poschiavo, then return if this is an ABSOLUTE must-see for you. From Chur to Appenzell takes 2-2h30 minute.
I'm not sure how fixed your lodging dates are...
But for example:
Lauterbrunnen to Chur (by train, start of Bernina route)= 3h50min-4h
Appenzell to Chur = 2-2h30min
Zurich to Chur = 1h22min
Appenzell to Lauterbrunnen = 4h22min
Maybe consider starting (or ending) at Chur with a
night in Chur. IMO the stretch Chur to Poschiavo was especially scenic (takes roughly 3 hr 30min).
Investigate lunch in Poschiavo, then return if this is an ABSOLUTE must-see for you. From Chur to Appenzell takes 2-2h30 minute.
Aug 7th, 2012, 06:05 AM
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Thanks for the breakdown mokka4. Maybe I should consider dropping the Bernina route from my trip as many have suggested. I'm just not sure how I would fit it into a future trip back to the area. I am not sure if I have a particular interest in Northeren Italy to combine with it -- I'd rather visit Rome and the Tuscany region on a trip to Italy. I do have ample time for my upcoming trip, but it still seems like lengthy train rides to and from Chur to then sit on the train for the Bernina route. I am somewhat wary of how I will find the Appenzell region but many have enjoyed their stay there.
Yes, Dukey1, I have heard about the library and will likely make a visit.
Yes, Dukey1, I have heard about the library and will likely make a visit.
Aug 7th, 2012, 08:39 AM
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Don't know what to say...
On the one hand,I have never seen anything like the Bernina stretch from St. Moritz to Poschiavo, with the desolate glacier stretching in the area of Alp Gruem and Diavolezza...BUT, to get to this area will involve 'realistically' TWO nights in Chur....(which is still a nice town!)
UNLESS, you either change your order to:
Zurich-->Chur, explore city, perhaps a quick visit up to Arosa (one hour) then overnight in Chur. Next day, train to Poschiavo, St.Moritz or similar town.
Have lunch, look about and return (long day on the rails).
Overnight again Chur.
Next morning, early start to Appenzell. Maybe shave a night here and just stay TWO nights, do hike/Saentis mountain trip/Urnaesch museum/St.Gallen (have to be choosy).
From Appenzell to Lauterbrunnen is another long train trip at 4+ hours. Finish trip with ? 6-7 nights in Lauterbrunnen.
I 'personally' would want a less rushed trip, so would regretfully omit Bernina Express this time. Maybe consider the Golden Express, as per swandav's input....
On the one hand,I have never seen anything like the Bernina stretch from St. Moritz to Poschiavo, with the desolate glacier stretching in the area of Alp Gruem and Diavolezza...BUT, to get to this area will involve 'realistically' TWO nights in Chur....(which is still a nice town!)
UNLESS, you either change your order to:
Zurich-->Chur, explore city, perhaps a quick visit up to Arosa (one hour) then overnight in Chur. Next day, train to Poschiavo, St.Moritz or similar town.
Have lunch, look about and return (long day on the rails).
Overnight again Chur.
Next morning, early start to Appenzell. Maybe shave a night here and just stay TWO nights, do hike/Saentis mountain trip/Urnaesch museum/St.Gallen (have to be choosy).
From Appenzell to Lauterbrunnen is another long train trip at 4+ hours. Finish trip with ? 6-7 nights in Lauterbrunnen.
I 'personally' would want a less rushed trip, so would regretfully omit Bernina Express this time. Maybe consider the Golden Express, as per swandav's input....
Aug 7th, 2012, 09:18 AM
#7
Re the library...check the hours as it is not open all day and every day. By all means take a look inside the abbey, as suggested. It has been called, by some, the most beautiful church interior in the entire country.
Appenzell is very nice but also very small. There is not, IMO, a whole lot to see and do in the town itself.
Appenzell is very nice but also very small. There is not, IMO, a whole lot to see and do in the town itself.
Aug 7th, 2012, 09:47 AM
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Thanks, mokka4. A lot to think about. I am going to dwell on this option for a couple of days:
1. Fly into Zurich, eventually that same day get train to Lauterbrunnen.
2. Lauterbrunnen for about 7 nights.
3. Train from Lauterbrunnen to Chur, overnight in Chur, Bernina route the next day up to Poschiavo, lunch, then back to Chur for overnight.
4. Chur to Appenzell for 3 nights in Apprenzell
5. Appenzell to Zurich for flight home.
I'll have to work out how long the ride from Chur to Poschiavo takes. From reviews I have read, I'm guessing that after my stay in Lauterbrunnen that the Bernina route will still be breathtaking and not more of the same?
1. Fly into Zurich, eventually that same day get train to Lauterbrunnen.
2. Lauterbrunnen for about 7 nights.
3. Train from Lauterbrunnen to Chur, overnight in Chur, Bernina route the next day up to Poschiavo, lunch, then back to Chur for overnight.
4. Chur to Appenzell for 3 nights in Apprenzell
5. Appenzell to Zurich for flight home.
I'll have to work out how long the ride from Chur to Poschiavo takes. From reviews I have read, I'm guessing that after my stay in Lauterbrunnen that the Bernina route will still be breathtaking and not more of the same?
Aug 7th, 2012, 10:14 AM
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Dukey1 - Yes, I gather there is not much to do in each town in the Appenzell region. I am hoping any hiking options can occupy my time. If others do not think so, by all means let me know. I have found that I tend to overestimate the time I need in a city by at least one day on my European vacations.
Aug 7th, 2012, 02:00 PM
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Hmmm . . . after some research, another option is to drop Bernina route for this trip and combine it with a trip to the Dolomites and Northern Italy in the future. Just don't know enough about Northern Italy right now and how conducive the Dolomites would be for me as a solo traveler. I may have to repost.
Aug 7th, 2012, 03:39 PM
#11
Your Merrills should be fine, but...a thick sole and ankle coverage/support is always a good idea to prevent broken/twisted ankles, which can easily happen when stepping on/over rocks and tree roots.
A word about Merrills - spouse had the kind with Gortex and he hated them - they held moisture in instead of keeping it out and made his feet sweat. They went into the bin. Keeping your feet dry could well be an issue if there's been snow. We now have Keens, which keep out moisture surprisingly well, w/o Gortex.
We're avid hikers and for us, a fleece layer and a lightweight waterproof/windproof layer that fits over the fleece is perfect for hiking - that way we can wear them together or separately as need be. We also carry a fleece hat and fleece mittens/gloves in the cooler months.
For pants, we wear comfortable roomy pants that dry quickly when wet. In wet/cold situations, I've found that a pair of waterproof pants worn over a pair of silk thermals is perfect, but once the rain goes away and the sun comes out, they get uncomfortable (warm), so it pays to have a spare pair of pants in your backpack.
Water, sunblock, walking sticks....you're good to go.
Have a great trip!
A word about Merrills - spouse had the kind with Gortex and he hated them - they held moisture in instead of keeping it out and made his feet sweat. They went into the bin. Keeping your feet dry could well be an issue if there's been snow. We now have Keens, which keep out moisture surprisingly well, w/o Gortex.
We're avid hikers and for us, a fleece layer and a lightweight waterproof/windproof layer that fits over the fleece is perfect for hiking - that way we can wear them together or separately as need be. We also carry a fleece hat and fleece mittens/gloves in the cooler months.
For pants, we wear comfortable roomy pants that dry quickly when wet. In wet/cold situations, I've found that a pair of waterproof pants worn over a pair of silk thermals is perfect, but once the rain goes away and the sun comes out, they get uncomfortable (warm), so it pays to have a spare pair of pants in your backpack.
Water, sunblock, walking sticks....you're good to go.
Have a great trip!
Aug 7th, 2012, 03:54 PM
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Thanks Melnq8. A friend of mine told me that one walking stick would be enough to ease the joints, so I am planning on buying one for now. Less to carry. Let me know if two is a must.
Aug 8th, 2012, 04:11 AM
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Don't forget sunglasses!
As noted earlier, the Chur to Poschiavo trip takes roughly 3.5 hours one-way, whether you take the actual Bernina Express or the local trains. The BE is either direct or requires a stop in St. Moritz.
The regional trains require a change in Samedan (nice little town) and Pontresina.
Re: whether the 'same' as Berner Oberland-
I have been to Switz 6 or 7 times, but was impressed by the Alp Gruem to Diavolezza stretch/expanse of ice as something I hadn't seen before....
As noted earlier, the Chur to Poschiavo trip takes roughly 3.5 hours one-way, whether you take the actual Bernina Express or the local trains. The BE is either direct or requires a stop in St. Moritz.
The regional trains require a change in Samedan (nice little town) and Pontresina.
Re: whether the 'same' as Berner Oberland-
I have been to Switz 6 or 7 times, but was impressed by the Alp Gruem to Diavolezza stretch/expanse of ice as something I hadn't seen before....
