Sweet Home Triana: Spring Break in Seville's left bank
Apr 27th, 2014, 09:19 AM
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Sweet Home Triana: Spring Break in Seville's left bank
Oh, the orange blossoms. The air. The sunshine.
My daughter H is studying in London this semester of her last year at university, and after I had a couple of weeks there we spent her Spring Break in Seville.
Why Seville for a week? I originally thought, well, Paris of course, because it's there. H thought, somewhere else, of course, where we'd never been. My mother was campaigning for us to visit her first cousins in Western Ireland, but what we seemed to require was something more southern and spring-break-y. EasyJet flies from Gatwick to Seville. I'd had a few years of high school Spanish. Fodorite opinion was favorable, and I think PalQ even called it a "brilliant' idea. So, ta da!
OUR APARTMENT
We've had good luck with airbnb.com in the past, so I started there, and was very impressed at the range of affordable apartments. The more I looked, and I do enjoy looking, the better Triana sounded. One day this one popped up, https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1748727
and it was perfect for us.
My daughter H is studying in London this semester of her last year at university, and after I had a couple of weeks there we spent her Spring Break in Seville.
Why Seville for a week? I originally thought, well, Paris of course, because it's there. H thought, somewhere else, of course, where we'd never been. My mother was campaigning for us to visit her first cousins in Western Ireland, but what we seemed to require was something more southern and spring-break-y. EasyJet flies from Gatwick to Seville. I'd had a few years of high school Spanish. Fodorite opinion was favorable, and I think PalQ even called it a "brilliant' idea. So, ta da!
OUR APARTMENT
We've had good luck with airbnb.com in the past, so I started there, and was very impressed at the range of affordable apartments. The more I looked, and I do enjoy looking, the better Triana sounded. One day this one popped up, https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1748727
and it was perfect for us.
Apr 27th, 2014, 12:41 PM
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The apartment location was excellent for our purposes, just off the river and just 10 minute walk from last stop for the airport bus at Plaza de Armas. I like staying in more residential areas anyway to get a better idea of local life.
The place was spotlessly clean, on second (our third) floor with elevator that was nice with baggage on arrival and departure. Recently remodeled, with tile floors, white tile bathroom, a well appointed basic kitchen. The bedroom window overlooks the central patio, and the living room has two french windows open to the street. I had the bedroom, entirely quiet at night, and H took the foldout sofa near the windows. The Saturday night we had a little street noise from the bar across the street, but nothing to speak of. There are wooden shutters for noise and sunlight control as needed.
The host Maria's English is very good, but I started trying to brush my Spanish up a few months in advance, and was glad I did. I also looked on yelp.com under "tapas Triana" and found several places with good ratings but no reviews in English, so brushed up a bit more, felt like Espanol Insider. Our first day there, a Saturday, we walked through the crowds along the Calle Sierpes and Av de la Constitution, past the Cathedral, and heard no English at all. Spanish, even rusty ancient brushed up kind, came in very handy.
The place was spotlessly clean, on second (our third) floor with elevator that was nice with baggage on arrival and departure. Recently remodeled, with tile floors, white tile bathroom, a well appointed basic kitchen. The bedroom window overlooks the central patio, and the living room has two french windows open to the street. I had the bedroom, entirely quiet at night, and H took the foldout sofa near the windows. The Saturday night we had a little street noise from the bar across the street, but nothing to speak of. There are wooden shutters for noise and sunlight control as needed.
The host Maria's English is very good, but I started trying to brush my Spanish up a few months in advance, and was glad I did. I also looked on yelp.com under "tapas Triana" and found several places with good ratings but no reviews in English, so brushed up a bit more, felt like Espanol Insider. Our first day there, a Saturday, we walked through the crowds along the Calle Sierpes and Av de la Constitution, past the Cathedral, and heard no English at all. Spanish, even rusty ancient brushed up kind, came in very handy.
Apr 30th, 2014, 07:12 AM
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FOOD: THE BEST
Our first Saturday evening, still a little disoriented and unused to speaking Spanish, we headed out looking for tapas, guided by my list from yelp. Blanca Paloma was jammed, so we ended up a few doors down at at Las Golondrinas, the one on Calle Pagés del Corro. (Not the original one nearby, that turned out later to be a little disappointing.)
There was no room at the bar, so we went up to the little upstairs loft and looked around, saw that it was also full. A friendly couple near the stairs noticed our clueless touristness, told us it would be worth it to wait, that they would be done soon and we could have their table. We stepped out of the way, but an authoritative manager/server told us to go downstairs and wait our turn, took our name, said he would call us. After just a few minutes standing, we were motioned upstairs and to the front table along the rail overlooking the bar.
The original bossy man, who turned out to be a sweetheart, came and told us that tapas were not allowed upstairs, raciones only, but that he would take care of us with 3 tapas each, specialties of the house, and wine. About this time I feared it would be an expensive proposition, but H has worked as a hostess at our hometown's finest restaurant and she told me to relax and enjoy it because we were getting the premium treatment, and this one was on her. I did relax, we soaked up the atmosphere and the deeply satisfying feeling of being taken care of.
Their champiñones are amazing; don't miss them. Puntas de Solomillo, our first, and they melted in mouths. Chipirones. All excellent. The total was < €23. As we left, I told my favorite bossy manager ever, by now frantically busy behind the bar, that we loved him.
Our first Saturday evening, still a little disoriented and unused to speaking Spanish, we headed out looking for tapas, guided by my list from yelp. Blanca Paloma was jammed, so we ended up a few doors down at at Las Golondrinas, the one on Calle Pagés del Corro. (Not the original one nearby, that turned out later to be a little disappointing.)
There was no room at the bar, so we went up to the little upstairs loft and looked around, saw that it was also full. A friendly couple near the stairs noticed our clueless touristness, told us it would be worth it to wait, that they would be done soon and we could have their table. We stepped out of the way, but an authoritative manager/server told us to go downstairs and wait our turn, took our name, said he would call us. After just a few minutes standing, we were motioned upstairs and to the front table along the rail overlooking the bar.
The original bossy man, who turned out to be a sweetheart, came and told us that tapas were not allowed upstairs, raciones only, but that he would take care of us with 3 tapas each, specialties of the house, and wine. About this time I feared it would be an expensive proposition, but H has worked as a hostess at our hometown's finest restaurant and she told me to relax and enjoy it because we were getting the premium treatment, and this one was on her. I did relax, we soaked up the atmosphere and the deeply satisfying feeling of being taken care of.
Their champiñones are amazing; don't miss them. Puntas de Solomillo, our first, and they melted in mouths. Chipirones. All excellent. The total was < €23. As we left, I told my favorite bossy manager ever, by now frantically busy behind the bar, that we loved him.
May 1st, 2014, 08:16 AM
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FOOD: THE WORST
Yes, literally the worst, most expensive, and most disappointing meal was at the acclaimed El RInconcillo on our last evening in the city.
Yelp and fodorites praise the tapas of this admittedly beautiful restaurant/tavern, established 1670. Our last night in town, after a week of mind-expanding tapas meals, we decided to head for something truly special at El RInconcillo and then afterwards try to find La Carboneria for a drink and flamenco.
It had been sunny all week, but started to sprinkle as we threaded our way from the
Museo Arqueológico through the back streets, and finally found it, tucked away. http://www.elrinconcillo.es
What a gorgeous interior. The bar was pretty full, and in any case has room to stand only. If you won't stand there, no tapas. Sitting = raciones.
(And it's funny how you can know someone literally her whole life, as I have known my daughter, without realizing that she refuses to stand while eating. We'd gone three weeks together to pubs in London and tapas joints in Seville, and the subject never came up. Here at El R it became an issue.)
Still assured the food would match the dazzling interior and reputation, we were led to the small dining room off the bar. There we encountered the only rude, indifferent, and to all appearances clinically depressed server of our entire trip. H ordered water with our wine, and after several minutes he plopped an unopened plastic bottle of water in front of her. No glass. Much later when we ordered and I said that I'd want flan for dessert, he said, "No hay flan." All right, fine. But H's revueltos arrived a lukewarm and tasteless mess, obviously chopped off a large prepared pan. My thick rustic gazpacho (can't remember what they call it there) was marginally better. The salads were adequate, and the bread that we'd had to request, along with water glass, cutlery and napkins. As a final annoyance, I heard him recommend their flan to the table of four adjacent. We made eye contact, he shrugged. I still regret the one euro tip I left him.
It was raining a little harder when we left around 2200. With some difficulty we found La Carboneria's street, and its approximate storefront. Along several blocks we had heard the sounds of TV sports jubilation; clearly a major fútbol match was near conclusion. Posted street numbers are optional in Seville, and it's often impossible to tell what sort of business is behind the aluminum doors that they pull down when they don't want customers. We stood outside the place I thought must surely be it for a minute or two and heard the sounds of sports happiness. Maybe if we'd loitered there in the rain until the game was over?
We decided to head back to sweet home Triana. Rain had made cobblestones slick, and some of the streets in that section are very narrow, with minimal or no sidewalks. After a few minutes' walking, a series of at least ten taxicabs roared down the street as we hugged the walls. The game must have ended. We thought we were probably going in the right direction, since the river was downhill, right? After many minutes of hazardous walking, we found ourselves at Av de Maria Luisa, even farther from our destination. We sat down at a bus stop, determined what bus would get us to the river, and counted our change. Yup, just about one euro short of having enough, and Why oh Why did I reward that terrible service at El Rinconcillo. And I was wearing my dressier heels for this farewell evening.
I have two daughters who consider taxicabs to be a wild extravagance, so that was nixed. Complaining about sore feet was out. H suggested we redeem the evening with an ice cream at an helado joint we'd passed, since we'd been almost tempted by them several times already, and then walk home. She is really a wonderful sport.
However, she thought "helado" would be as good at "gelato" she'd had in Florence. We got a few of the more attractive flavors and started walking. After a couple of blocks, each of us realized that the other was trying to remain positive by praising it, that this ice cream was really bad, and all three flavors tasted as if they'd thawed and refrozen at least once. Time to stop being phony positive! H dumped her portion with a dramatic flourish in the nearest trashcan, and so did I. If you happened to be near an open window that rainy midMarch evening, and hear two women calling, "That's It! Sevilla Stinks! (or somewhat saltier versions thereof) Why did we ever leave Triana?" , well, we had been pushed just a little too far.
Yes, literally the worst, most expensive, and most disappointing meal was at the acclaimed El RInconcillo on our last evening in the city.
Yelp and fodorites praise the tapas of this admittedly beautiful restaurant/tavern, established 1670. Our last night in town, after a week of mind-expanding tapas meals, we decided to head for something truly special at El RInconcillo and then afterwards try to find La Carboneria for a drink and flamenco.
It had been sunny all week, but started to sprinkle as we threaded our way from the
Museo Arqueológico through the back streets, and finally found it, tucked away. http://www.elrinconcillo.es
What a gorgeous interior. The bar was pretty full, and in any case has room to stand only. If you won't stand there, no tapas. Sitting = raciones.
(And it's funny how you can know someone literally her whole life, as I have known my daughter, without realizing that she refuses to stand while eating. We'd gone three weeks together to pubs in London and tapas joints in Seville, and the subject never came up. Here at El R it became an issue.)
Still assured the food would match the dazzling interior and reputation, we were led to the small dining room off the bar. There we encountered the only rude, indifferent, and to all appearances clinically depressed server of our entire trip. H ordered water with our wine, and after several minutes he plopped an unopened plastic bottle of water in front of her. No glass. Much later when we ordered and I said that I'd want flan for dessert, he said, "No hay flan." All right, fine. But H's revueltos arrived a lukewarm and tasteless mess, obviously chopped off a large prepared pan. My thick rustic gazpacho (can't remember what they call it there) was marginally better. The salads were adequate, and the bread that we'd had to request, along with water glass, cutlery and napkins. As a final annoyance, I heard him recommend their flan to the table of four adjacent. We made eye contact, he shrugged. I still regret the one euro tip I left him.
It was raining a little harder when we left around 2200. With some difficulty we found La Carboneria's street, and its approximate storefront. Along several blocks we had heard the sounds of TV sports jubilation; clearly a major fútbol match was near conclusion. Posted street numbers are optional in Seville, and it's often impossible to tell what sort of business is behind the aluminum doors that they pull down when they don't want customers. We stood outside the place I thought must surely be it for a minute or two and heard the sounds of sports happiness. Maybe if we'd loitered there in the rain until the game was over?
We decided to head back to sweet home Triana. Rain had made cobblestones slick, and some of the streets in that section are very narrow, with minimal or no sidewalks. After a few minutes' walking, a series of at least ten taxicabs roared down the street as we hugged the walls. The game must have ended. We thought we were probably going in the right direction, since the river was downhill, right? After many minutes of hazardous walking, we found ourselves at Av de Maria Luisa, even farther from our destination. We sat down at a bus stop, determined what bus would get us to the river, and counted our change. Yup, just about one euro short of having enough, and Why oh Why did I reward that terrible service at El Rinconcillo. And I was wearing my dressier heels for this farewell evening.
I have two daughters who consider taxicabs to be a wild extravagance, so that was nixed. Complaining about sore feet was out. H suggested we redeem the evening with an ice cream at an helado joint we'd passed, since we'd been almost tempted by them several times already, and then walk home. She is really a wonderful sport.
However, she thought "helado" would be as good at "gelato" she'd had in Florence. We got a few of the more attractive flavors and started walking. After a couple of blocks, each of us realized that the other was trying to remain positive by praising it, that this ice cream was really bad, and all three flavors tasted as if they'd thawed and refrozen at least once. Time to stop being phony positive! H dumped her portion with a dramatic flourish in the nearest trashcan, and so did I. If you happened to be near an open window that rainy midMarch evening, and hear two women calling, "That's It! Sevilla Stinks! (or somewhat saltier versions thereof) Why did we ever leave Triana?" , well, we had been pushed just a little too far.
May 1st, 2014, 07:39 PM
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Other tapas places we liked:
Taberna de Triana on C/Rodrigo de Triana just off C/ San Jacinto, yelp.com/biz/taberna-de-triana-sevilla
Nice ambience, good tapas.
and just next door Bodega de Vargas yelp.com/biz/bodega-vargas-sevilla
We liked the casual funkiness of this place. The evening we were there, it was all men watching the football match on TV. Espinaca con garbanzos here, I can't remember what other tapa, two glasses of wine. My favorite tab: "Seis siete."
Taberna de Triana on C/Rodrigo de Triana just off C/ San Jacinto, yelp.com/biz/taberna-de-triana-sevilla
Nice ambience, good tapas.
and just next door Bodega de Vargas yelp.com/biz/bodega-vargas-sevilla
We liked the casual funkiness of this place. The evening we were there, it was all men watching the football match on TV. Espinaca con garbanzos here, I can't remember what other tapa, two glasses of wine. My favorite tab: "Seis siete."
May 2nd, 2014, 07:13 AM
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More Triana food:
Bodega de Vargas has a sign posted above the bar:
"HORARIO
Abrimos cuando llegamos
Cerramos cuando nos vamos
Y si Usted ha venido y no stamos
Es que no hemos coincidido."
Boy, does that sum up quite a few businesses there. I admire Sevilla's widespread indifference to commerce. Unsuspected shops that had been shuttered for days would be open one morning, then never emerge again from behind the metal shutters.
The apparently father and son counter men got a kick out of H's taking a photo of it. We lingered at Bodega de Vargas after the game ended and most of the customers drifted away.
Another evening we made it to Blanca Paloma. www.yelp.com/biz/blanca-paloma-sevilla-2
On San Jacinto. Well cooked, non fancy, full of locals. Four tapas including ravioli, brocheta, alcachofa, and rulo de cabra I think, plus our customary one glass each of wine cost 19€. Very good value.
We found the Blanca Paloma atmosphere less comfortable that evening because of a group of men in suits standing by the bar who kept looking at my daughter, obviously commenting on her. She does not like that sort of thing, especially when she's trying to relax and eat. Not the taverna's fault, obviously. (She is above the average in attractiveness, and knows how to ignore the usual male admiration. The piropos/flirtatious remarks she drew in Spain never became obnoxious, at least when she was with her Mama. I get used to the feeling of having disappeared when I'm out with her.)
H wanted to avoid going to the same tapas place twice, which I agree with in theory. And we probably couldn't have duplicated the magic of that first night at Las Golondrinas II. So another evening we went, early, to Las G I, the original tucked away one around the corner from II. www.yelp.com/biz/las-golondrinas-i-sevilla
This was a little disappointing. It was empty when we arrived just past opening time 2000 hrs. We asked for a selection of six tapas, specialty of the house, and two of them came out as a plate of olives. Olives? a specialty of the house? We did get their fabulous mushrooms, and it has a beautiful, cozy interior. Maybe we caught the cook and bartender on an off night.
Our first lunch on arrival was at Casa Cuesta, just down the street from our apartment.
www.yelp.com/biz/casa-cuesta-sevilla-2
At this point we were still a little fuzzy-headed from our early flight after a late London opera, and my Spanish was not yet up to the task. It was a good first stop, though. Gorgeous inside, with corrida posters and wood bar. Our server was patient and kind, and tried one English word on us, timidly. Probably by the time tourist season rolled in at Semana Santa she was more adept. I had an excellent salad with warm goat cheese and honey, and I wish I had another one right now. Definitely recommend.
Bodega de Vargas has a sign posted above the bar:
"HORARIO
Abrimos cuando llegamos
Cerramos cuando nos vamos
Y si Usted ha venido y no stamos
Es que no hemos coincidido."
Boy, does that sum up quite a few businesses there. I admire Sevilla's widespread indifference to commerce. Unsuspected shops that had been shuttered for days would be open one morning, then never emerge again from behind the metal shutters.
The apparently father and son counter men got a kick out of H's taking a photo of it. We lingered at Bodega de Vargas after the game ended and most of the customers drifted away.
Another evening we made it to Blanca Paloma. www.yelp.com/biz/blanca-paloma-sevilla-2
On San Jacinto. Well cooked, non fancy, full of locals. Four tapas including ravioli, brocheta, alcachofa, and rulo de cabra I think, plus our customary one glass each of wine cost 19€. Very good value.
We found the Blanca Paloma atmosphere less comfortable that evening because of a group of men in suits standing by the bar who kept looking at my daughter, obviously commenting on her. She does not like that sort of thing, especially when she's trying to relax and eat. Not the taverna's fault, obviously. (She is above the average in attractiveness, and knows how to ignore the usual male admiration. The piropos/flirtatious remarks she drew in Spain never became obnoxious, at least when she was with her Mama. I get used to the feeling of having disappeared when I'm out with her.)
H wanted to avoid going to the same tapas place twice, which I agree with in theory. And we probably couldn't have duplicated the magic of that first night at Las Golondrinas II. So another evening we went, early, to Las G I, the original tucked away one around the corner from II. www.yelp.com/biz/las-golondrinas-i-sevilla
This was a little disappointing. It was empty when we arrived just past opening time 2000 hrs. We asked for a selection of six tapas, specialty of the house, and two of them came out as a plate of olives. Olives? a specialty of the house? We did get their fabulous mushrooms, and it has a beautiful, cozy interior. Maybe we caught the cook and bartender on an off night.
Our first lunch on arrival was at Casa Cuesta, just down the street from our apartment.
www.yelp.com/biz/casa-cuesta-sevilla-2
At this point we were still a little fuzzy-headed from our early flight after a late London opera, and my Spanish was not yet up to the task. It was a good first stop, though. Gorgeous inside, with corrida posters and wood bar. Our server was patient and kind, and tried one English word on us, timidly. Probably by the time tourist season rolled in at Semana Santa she was more adept. I had an excellent salad with warm goat cheese and honey, and I wish I had another one right now. Definitely recommend.
May 2nd, 2014, 03:47 PM
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One morning early, before H was up and at em, I went looking for a tapas place recommended here by ekscrunchy, PuraTasca. Our apartment faced the eastern end of C/Procurador, which winds down towards C/Numancia. Also at all times I wanted just one more cup of cafe con leche, and I knew there was one out there with my name on it.
I found Puratasca, or the building where it surely must have been, shuttered and unsigned or numbered but with fish and meat paintings on the windows. The little bar across the street was open and serving coffee, but seemed a little small and crowded.
I headed back up to C/San Vicente de Paul, saw a bar with a service window on the sidewalk, and outdoors tables full of people; it was just warm enough to sit outside at that hour. Triana was traditionally the Gypsy area, along with being the area for tile artisans. Further west, away from the river, it starts to get just a tad grittier.
I was delighted to realize that three tables full of my fellow cafe patrons were Roma. Ten or so men sat at one long table, with somen sitting in two smaller groups. I couldn't tell what language they were using to shoot the breeze, but it didn't sound like Spanish. They glanced over at me occasionally at my adjacent table, as I nursed my cafe con leche and caught up on my journal, but did not seem to mind my alien presence.
That night, a Thursday around 2100, H and I went back to Puratasca to find it still shuttered. Obviously ne hemos coincidido.
Twice we sat along the river on C/Betis and drank manzanilla (me, because that's what Carmen promised Don Jose they'd drink at Lillas Pastia's www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlGMlxElB3A) or wine (H, because not crazy about manzanilla and not about to order something just because some fictional character liked it.)
OTHER TRIANA FOOD:
Dulcería Manu Jara, near C/San Jacinto and the northern end of C/Betis, is a lovely pastry shop. They close Mondays and siesta times.
Mercado de Triana www.yelp.com/biz/mercado-de-triana-sevilla-2
An excellent market at the end of C/Castilla, so a quick walk from our apartment. Many excellent stalls with vegetables, fruit, meats, cheese. When I asked a cheese man for Manchego, asked me if I wanted Forte? (with appropriate he-man arm motion) Yes, definitely! I had difficulty finding just the right place to get churros con chocolate, and at the end we realized this was the place. You can sit on the end under one of the taxidermy bull heads, and admire the ancient stone wall from I presume the castle that gave the street its name.
I found Puratasca, or the building where it surely must have been, shuttered and unsigned or numbered but with fish and meat paintings on the windows. The little bar across the street was open and serving coffee, but seemed a little small and crowded.
I headed back up to C/San Vicente de Paul, saw a bar with a service window on the sidewalk, and outdoors tables full of people; it was just warm enough to sit outside at that hour. Triana was traditionally the Gypsy area, along with being the area for tile artisans. Further west, away from the river, it starts to get just a tad grittier.
I was delighted to realize that three tables full of my fellow cafe patrons were Roma. Ten or so men sat at one long table, with somen sitting in two smaller groups. I couldn't tell what language they were using to shoot the breeze, but it didn't sound like Spanish. They glanced over at me occasionally at my adjacent table, as I nursed my cafe con leche and caught up on my journal, but did not seem to mind my alien presence.
That night, a Thursday around 2100, H and I went back to Puratasca to find it still shuttered. Obviously ne hemos coincidido.
Twice we sat along the river on C/Betis and drank manzanilla (me, because that's what Carmen promised Don Jose they'd drink at Lillas Pastia's www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlGMlxElB3A) or wine (H, because not crazy about manzanilla and not about to order something just because some fictional character liked it.)
OTHER TRIANA FOOD:
Dulcería Manu Jara, near C/San Jacinto and the northern end of C/Betis, is a lovely pastry shop. They close Mondays and siesta times.
Mercado de Triana www.yelp.com/biz/mercado-de-triana-sevilla-2
An excellent market at the end of C/Castilla, so a quick walk from our apartment. Many excellent stalls with vegetables, fruit, meats, cheese. When I asked a cheese man for Manchego, asked me if I wanted Forte? (with appropriate he-man arm motion) Yes, definitely! I had difficulty finding just the right place to get churros con chocolate, and at the end we realized this was the place. You can sit on the end under one of the taxidermy bull heads, and admire the ancient stone wall from I presume the castle that gave the street its name.
May 2nd, 2014, 04:02 PM
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I meant to include a link to the bakery: http://www.yelp.com/biz/dulcer%C3%AD...NJAG-MRqO8fc-w
As H and I looked in the window, a young man across the street called out that it is "el mejor de Espana."
I'm going to abuse El Rinconcillo just a little more, since I'll never see that euro tip again: They charged us 3 euros for a basket of unspecial bread that we hadn't requested. Some places give you a small plate of olives at no charge, and some give you the olives and then charge you a little.
As H and I looked in the window, a young man across the street called out that it is "el mejor de Espana."
I'm going to abuse El Rinconcillo just a little more, since I'll never see that euro tip again: They charged us 3 euros for a basket of unspecial bread that we hadn't requested. Some places give you a small plate of olives at no charge, and some give you the olives and then charge you a little.
May 3rd, 2014, 07:55 AM
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We were able to supply all of our food needs on the Triana side, with warm rustic bread in the morning from the Mercado, milk, cream (nata, not crema as I had thought) and juice (zumo, not jugo, ditto) from the nearby little shops that oddly stay open all day. Down San Jacinto on the right, a sweet little olives shop where the woman lets you sample until you're satisfied.
While on the subject of my antiquated Spanish of the Americas, I tried to veer towards saying "gra(th)ia(th), not really pronouncing the th's, and the same with "buena(th) dia(th)",skipping the th preferable to saying an "s". Also, next time I will remember to say "luego", skipping the "hasta" and "nada", skipping the "de", so I will sound cool.
Our favorite place for Seville-side tapas was the Ignacio Vidal on Canaleja. After a couple of hours on Sunday at the Museo de Bellas Artes, it was just what we needed. We had a table on the sunny sidewalk, though it's pleasant and modern inside. Taquitos de Salmon, Setas Empanadas, Patatas Tres Salsas, and Huevo Estrellado were all very good. (they charged just 0,80 € each for pan/picos here.)
Here I discovered the joy of a cerveza pequeña on a warm afternoon, and my that was refreshing. A passing server knelt down to write "Alhambra" for me when I asked ¿qué tipo? Charming. I think you can also ask for "un corto."
We also had drinks a couple of times in the picturesque Barrio Santa Cruz, after wandering the streets, but H's by far favorite drinks experience was a fodorite tip: the lobby at Hotel Alfonso XIII. Tasteful opulence, a jazz pianist, fancy cocktails. And, not surprisingly, English Spoken Here. No doubt several other languages, too.
While on the subject of my antiquated Spanish of the Americas, I tried to veer towards saying "gra(th)ia(th), not really pronouncing the th's, and the same with "buena(th) dia(th)",skipping the th preferable to saying an "s". Also, next time I will remember to say "luego", skipping the "hasta" and "nada", skipping the "de", so I will sound cool.
Our favorite place for Seville-side tapas was the Ignacio Vidal on Canaleja. After a couple of hours on Sunday at the Museo de Bellas Artes, it was just what we needed. We had a table on the sunny sidewalk, though it's pleasant and modern inside. Taquitos de Salmon, Setas Empanadas, Patatas Tres Salsas, and Huevo Estrellado were all very good. (they charged just 0,80 € each for pan/picos here.)
Here I discovered the joy of a cerveza pequeña on a warm afternoon, and my that was refreshing. A passing server knelt down to write "Alhambra" for me when I asked ¿qué tipo? Charming. I think you can also ask for "un corto."
We also had drinks a couple of times in the picturesque Barrio Santa Cruz, after wandering the streets, but H's by far favorite drinks experience was a fodorite tip: the lobby at Hotel Alfonso XIII. Tasteful opulence, a jazz pianist, fancy cocktails. And, not surprisingly, English Spoken Here. No doubt several other languages, too.
May 3rd, 2014, 12:20 PM
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Hi Stoke,
Continuing to follow you and your daughter's adventure in Seville. Too bad about your unfortunate experience at El Rinconcillo. I have no epicurean bent but found the food in Spain not among my favorites except for the tapas - and the very reasonable red wine.
"Why did I reward that terrible service at El Rinconcillo. And I was wearing my dressier heels for this farewell evening." That's what I love about your writing - your humor, warts and all. A friend asked my lately how many pairs of shoes I plan to bring to London in June. Answer - one, Ecco black walking sandals (possibly a pair of dressy flats, but who knows?)
Good for you using your Spanish. Did you do the museums?
Continuing to follow you and your daughter's adventure in Seville. Too bad about your unfortunate experience at El Rinconcillo. I have no epicurean bent but found the food in Spain not among my favorites except for the tapas - and the very reasonable red wine.
"Why did I reward that terrible service at El Rinconcillo. And I was wearing my dressier heels for this farewell evening." That's what I love about your writing - your humor, warts and all. A friend asked my lately how many pairs of shoes I plan to bring to London in June. Answer - one, Ecco black walking sandals (possibly a pair of dressy flats, but who knows?)
Good for you using your Spanish. Did you do the museums?
May 3rd, 2014, 12:46 PM
#14
Stoke, we were staying just down the street from El Rinconcillo so we went in a couple of times during our 3 nights and days in Seville. Having no problem with standing at the bar and eating, at least for a while, we were able to try the tapas and though they weren't brilliant, they were certainly better than OK, and of course the atmosphere was a lot of fun. I don't remember the service being good, or bad, which suggests to me that it was pretty ordinary.
One night we started off there then worked out way all round the nearby square, having a drink and tapas in each, before finally pouring ourselves into bed. other nights we just ate where our feet had taken us, which seemed to work out quite well. The best tapas we had was near the cathedral of the black madonna in a rather fly-blown cafe that looked nothing special but had the best jamon [at the best price] I've ever had.
We're returning to Spain for just a few nights in Valencia at the end of this month - I'm so looking forward to trying the food!
One night we started off there then worked out way all round the nearby square, having a drink and tapas in each, before finally pouring ourselves into bed. other nights we just ate where our feet had taken us, which seemed to work out quite well. The best tapas we had was near the cathedral of the black madonna in a rather fly-blown cafe that looked nothing special but had the best jamon [at the best price] I've ever had.
We're returning to Spain for just a few nights in Valencia at the end of this month - I'm so looking forward to trying the food!
May 10th, 2014, 05:05 PM
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I really loved the food in Spain-even though I was am a quasi veggie person and eat no red meat. Loved the bruschetta like breakfast and I still haven't found the perfection of a Spanish cafe con leche.
After learning Latin-American Spanish, I too started to pronounce gracias with a th sound. It became so ingrained i have a hard time readjusting.
I also found that customer service is not a Spanish forte. I once sat at a table in a Granada restaurant waiting for a waiter to take my order. Waited and waited until finally I got up and left - and found a great tapas bar.
But still love the country.
After learning Latin-American Spanish, I too started to pronounce gracias with a th sound. It became so ingrained i have a hard time readjusting.
I also found that customer service is not a Spanish forte. I once sat at a table in a Granada restaurant waiting for a waiter to take my order. Waited and waited until finally I got up and left - and found a great tapas bar.
But still love the country.
May 11th, 2014, 03:27 AM
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Triana is an excellent neighbourhood and lots of fine tips here!
Regrading your Rinconcillo experience. The tapas culture is traditionally all about standing in the bar and having a glass and a bite. No tapas at any tables or outside the bar area in traditional places all around Spain. No wonder they keep it the original way in Rinconcillo from 1670.
If you go a next time, they do a fabulous Sevilla classic Espinacas con granbanzos here: http://laalacenadelaabuela.blogspot....al-estilo.html
Regrading your Rinconcillo experience. The tapas culture is traditionally all about standing in the bar and having a glass and a bite. No tapas at any tables or outside the bar area in traditional places all around Spain. No wonder they keep it the original way in Rinconcillo from 1670.
If you go a next time, they do a fabulous Sevilla classic Espinacas con granbanzos here: http://laalacenadelaabuela.blogspot....al-estilo.html
May 11th, 2014, 04:53 AM
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I did notice spain was very much a counter culture much like the USA diners of old. Almost all eateries had a counter where patrons could stand eat. I grew to like it especially as a solo traveler.
May 11th, 2014, 07:27 AM
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Thanks, Lateday. H came home from London last week, so I haven't spent much computer time. Museums, yes!
What fun, Ann. I envy and admire your and Mr. Hig's travels.
I suspended my quasi-veg ways for this trip, emily. When our man at Las Golondrinas said he'd do right by us, I went with it. With the exception of the Rinconcillo guy, we tended to have good luck with servers.
Thanks for that, kimhe!
I'd gladly stand for tapas, would love to return to Seville. I don't think I'd give El Rinconcillo a second chance, though.
What fun, Ann. I envy and admire your and Mr. Hig's travels.
I suspended my quasi-veg ways for this trip, emily. When our man at Las Golondrinas said he'd do right by us, I went with it. With the exception of the Rinconcillo guy, we tended to have good luck with servers.
Thanks for that, kimhe!
I'd gladly stand for tapas, would love to return to Seville. I don't think I'd give El Rinconcillo a second chance, though.
May 11th, 2014, 09:22 AM
#19
What fun, Ann. I envy and admire your and Mr. Hig's travels.>>
out of the blue, we are now booked to do a short [4 night] trip to Valencia at the end of this month. we haven't been to Spain since Seville about 3 years ago so I'm feeling quite excited about it! i love the fact that you can get something to eat, somewhere, more or less 24 hours a day - that's what i call civilised! it's the only place I can think of where arriving at 11pm, as we will, is not really a disadvantage.
if you don't mind my taking us off topic a tad, stoke, may I ask Kimhe if he's got any flamenco or tapas tips for Valencia?
out of the blue, we are now booked to do a short [4 night] trip to Valencia at the end of this month. we haven't been to Spain since Seville about 3 years ago so I'm feeling quite excited about it! i love the fact that you can get something to eat, somewhere, more or less 24 hours a day - that's what i call civilised! it's the only place I can think of where arriving at 11pm, as we will, is not really a disadvantage.
if you don't mind my taking us off topic a tad, stoke, may I ask Kimhe if he's got any flamenco or tapas tips for Valencia?
May 11th, 2014, 11:00 AM
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FLAMENCO, UP VERY CLOSE
Sunday night late, cutting back from the Puente de San Telmo and down c/Rodrigo de Triana, we noticed the shuttered Manuel Betanzos Academia de flamenco, http://www.manuelbetanzos.com/
and that the schedule of classes posted outside included "bajo" level. H is a dancer, trained since age 4 or so, and she enjoys going out for salsa and tango. It sounded like just the thing to do.
We went back Monday evening after a long day, to find Hannah could take a class just about to start, and again Tues and Wed evening, for 35 euros altogether. Though they'd have probably loaned her shoes, Hannah was too tired and hungry to jump right; they let us go back and peek at the classes in session, and we signed her up for the next two evenings. www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BtJSFus_60
That was so fun for both of us. We bought her some proper leather flamenco shoes, made in Sevilla, at one of the shoe stores on c/San Jacinto.
They let me sit in and observe, with the charismatic and adorable profesor Juan Manuel Zurano, a room full of women students, pretty-to-very good and in the palm of his hand, and a guy, ditto. All in Spanish, of course, and the universal language of ba pa PAH! It would be tricky for a true beginning dancer, and I'd have just as soon tried to swim across the river as attempt it, but H was able to keep up with the combinations. Some of the students were able to maintain intense facial expression and looked pretty snazzy to me. It was especially a kick to observe the Advanced class just before that; hearing that many heels hitting a wood floor in unison, to a flamenco beat, smelling all that sweat, watching that many colors of swirling skirt, is a thrill.
www.manuelbetanzos.com/profesores/
Sunday night late, cutting back from the Puente de San Telmo and down c/Rodrigo de Triana, we noticed the shuttered Manuel Betanzos Academia de flamenco, http://www.manuelbetanzos.com/
and that the schedule of classes posted outside included "bajo" level. H is a dancer, trained since age 4 or so, and she enjoys going out for salsa and tango. It sounded like just the thing to do.
We went back Monday evening after a long day, to find Hannah could take a class just about to start, and again Tues and Wed evening, for 35 euros altogether. Though they'd have probably loaned her shoes, Hannah was too tired and hungry to jump right; they let us go back and peek at the classes in session, and we signed her up for the next two evenings. www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BtJSFus_60
That was so fun for both of us. We bought her some proper leather flamenco shoes, made in Sevilla, at one of the shoe stores on c/San Jacinto.
They let me sit in and observe, with the charismatic and adorable profesor Juan Manuel Zurano, a room full of women students, pretty-to-very good and in the palm of his hand, and a guy, ditto. All in Spanish, of course, and the universal language of ba pa PAH! It would be tricky for a true beginning dancer, and I'd have just as soon tried to swim across the river as attempt it, but H was able to keep up with the combinations. Some of the students were able to maintain intense facial expression and looked pretty snazzy to me. It was especially a kick to observe the Advanced class just before that; hearing that many heels hitting a wood floor in unison, to a flamenco beat, smelling all that sweat, watching that many colors of swirling skirt, is a thrill.
www.manuelbetanzos.com/profesores/
