dwdvagamundo

My spouse and I are contemplating a driving trip to Spain this year. We would have about two and a half weeks and would probably go in the fall, but we might go in May if airfares, workload and currency all come together.

Very tentative plan is to fly into Barcelona, spend a couple of days there, then drive to Roncevalles via Zaragoza and then follow the Camino to Santiago de Compostella stopping at Burgos and Leon. Leaving SdC, we'd drive to Salamanca then drop the car in Madrid and stay for a day or two, one of which would probably be a day trip or an overnite to Toledo. It looks like the driving distances and times are all doable.

Our interests are history, architecture, art, archaeology, museums, food and scenery (in that order).This is our second time in Spain--the first time we visited Estremadura and Andalusia, as well as Madrid and its surroundings (Toledo, Avila, Segovia). We will probably see the Basque Country from southern France next time we go to France so we're omitting it on this trip.

One reason we've delayed returning to Spain is the difficulty of locating good base cities in the north. Looks to me like the cities are pretty much spread out, so that basing somewhere for a few days doesn't make sense. But maybe I'm wrong.

So--thoughts? Ideas for bases? Time in each of the cities mentioned above? Things to do in and around each? BTW--We're committed to driving because (a) my wife has mobility issues that make trains difficult, (b) we like the freedom a car gives and (c) we like to drive.

Gracias, amigos.

Robert2533

We've done 2-1/2 weeks just driving around northern Galacia let alone all the way from Barcelona to Santiago and then to Salamanca before dropping the car off.

Although the distances don't seem like much, you'll soon realize you're trying to cover a lot of ground. But if you're heart is set on a road trip, then you can consider the following:

Leg 1: Barcelona to Roncesvalles via Zaragoza and Pamplona. Overnighting in Pamplona with a day trip up to Roncesvalles. (I recommend spending a little more time in the area)

Leg 2: Pamplona to Burgos and then on to the Parador in Leon for a night or two.

Leg 3: Leon to Ponferrada and lugo and then into Santiago.

By then, without taking any detours, you would have covered about 1400 kms.

Leg 4: Santiago to Salamanca for a couple of days. Then down to Madrid, adding another 650 kms to the route.

ribeirasacra

2 and a half weeks to see part of Northern Spain?
Cut down the traveling and see more.
One nighters do not work.
Do not forget you IDP.
***Our interests are history, architecture, art, archaeology, museums, food and scenery (in that order)****
Well as this is your second visit you will understand that Spain has all of these in bucket-loads.
First my I suggest you cut down on the driving. When you have planned which area to visit come back and we tell you which are the "good bases" to use.

IMDonehere

Yes, you must cut down on your distances. Do not a rent a car until you leave Barcelona. Cars are often a burden in Spanish towns because they weren't designed for them and that includes Santiago.

dwdvagamundo

Well, at least no one said to spend the entire two weeks in Barcelona or Madrid

Robert--your itinerary is what I have in mind and, according to sources I found on the internet, we can drive it in a total of about 20 hours on toll roads. As we will not take only toll roads, obviously the driving times will be longer, but I still think it's doable, particularly as we do not intend to drive more than three or four hours a day. We live in Atlanta so we're used to long drives--often drive to Tampa (seven hours) and DC (about ten hours)and in Spain, there'll be a lot more to see from the windows of the car than to either of those places.

Thanks for suggestions re stops and time at each stop.

rebeirasacra--I know that most anywhere we go in Spain will fill our interest list. I view this as sort of a "survey" trip--we're in our late sixties, too many places that we've not seen, and too few remaining years to travel. We're between the "slow travel" crowd ("Two weeks? Spend it in Paris"!) and the "five countries in two weeks" crowd.

I don't like "one-nighters" either, but sometimes it's necessary and it works out alright, even though we often wish we'd had more time. And we'll get IDPs--usually bring them but have never been asked; if we go in May, ours from last October will still be valid.

IM--we won't rent a car for while we are in Barcelona, and we'll take the train to Toledo--learned that the first time a car is a burden in any sizeable Spanish city.

So for all of you, given our interests, if we should cut down, what should be cut? And, how much time should we spend around the places you would leave in?

Robert2533

There are several good hotel options in Pamplona. If you are a Marriott member, try the AC Ciudad de Pamplona, otherwise there is the AlmaPamplona, on the north side, and the Palacio de Guendulain, which is in the old quarter.

dwdvagamundo

Thanks Robert.

Una cosa mas--In discussing this trip, my spouse and I continually mention three places we'd like to visit: Barcelona and SdC (and at least part of the Camino) for the first time and Toledo (for a second). So it will be difficult to cut down distances very much.

dwdvagamundo

Thanks everyone.

On our first trip to Spain, we were very impressed by how good the roads were. We weren't in the mountains as much as we plan to be on at least part of this trip, but the only problem (outside the cities) was the 3@$#^&* truck traffic and the sheep.

We've driven the Amalfi Coast, A1A (the Pacific Coast Highway) in California, the UK (with its right-hand drive and sheep-filled country lanes), and in Napoli and Sicily, so we're ready for Spain!!

But having said all that, would it make sense for us to take trains for part of this? For example, could we get a fast train Barcelona/Zaragoza and rent the car there?

Also, while we like wine, that's not the focus of our travels--we were in Burgundy last year and did not do a single wine-tasting. But we did buy and drink a lot of wine.

Gracias

Bedar

Ribeira, hey, you, too, promote your business on this site. BTW, your place looks VERY nice, and the prices are reasonable.
Driving in Spain is not bad nowadays. The roads, even tertiary ones, have all been fixed, and the Spaniards now drive better. It has been a couple of generations since they got off their burros. In our village, burros and all animals have been outlawed. Sad but more heathful - less flies.

Bedar

Ribeira, the link to your business is in your profile !

rialtogrl

dwdvagamundo, since you really want to see Barcelona and Santiago de Compostela and part of the camino, maybe you could spend a few days in Barcelona, then fly to Santiago de Compostela. Spend some days there, then pick up a car and see part of the camino up into the Bierzo area, which is very pretty. And then drive down to Salamanca, you could even drop the car off there and take the train to Madrid. I am not sure I would want to drive in Madrid but that is just me.

I agree that Monforte de Lemos is not so interesting. The parador is wonderful to stay and hang out in (though I probably had the worst meal I have ever had in Spain at that place) and O Grelo is a really good restaurant, but the rest... meh. maybe Robert can fill us in on some interesting parts. It is a good place to stay if you for a night if you are headed east into the Bierzo area.

Happy planning.

IMDonehere

Ribe represents one place as far as I can tell, but does not push it. He does promote Galicia but the entire area and not just Ribeira Sacra.

Robert seems to represent many places and rarely discloses any affiliation.

Bedar

But Ribe is constantly poking at Robert. Some sort of jealousy, I think. From another forum, i know that Robert has been in Spain for a very long time and his knowledge is vast. No need for Ribe's behavior. He could learn from him. This isn't a competition.

ribeirasacra

Strange conflict a location where, with in walking distance, one can have an excellent meal and the other the worse in Galicia. But I have recently heard hospital food in Galicia is not so good either ;-)

ribeirasacra

BTW the road between Bierzo and Monforte could prove a disappointment too. The Camnio heads over the mountains to O Cebreiro and on towards Sarria.
If you took that route maybe a quick stop at O Cebreiro to see the pallozas.
http://www.spain.info/en/que-quieres..._cebreiro.html
Forget about Samos, maybe on the same level or lower than Monforte in locations that are intresting. Stay in the city of Lugo with it's world heritage status plus other Roman remains.
http://www.spain.info/en/que-quieres...inos/lugo.html

kja

@ bedar -- I believe that by posting the link to his business, ribeirasacra has complied with Fodor's guidelines, which state: "If you represent a commercial business (e.g., travel agency, hotel, airline) or charitable organization, please post the URL to the relevant site in your member profile instead of linking to it in your posts."


I have not been aware of any instance in which any poster named in this link has promoted his/her financial / business concerns in violation of Fodor's rules.

Moreover, I have been impressed by, and appreciative of, the generosity of these (and so many other) Fodorites in sharing their expertise. I might not always agree with them, but I would never expect ANY pair of travelers to agree about everything, nor would I expect experts to agree about everything. I often find valuable information in reading about the ways in which experts' opinions vary -- and I hope this forum continues to be a place where even experts (including those who have a link to a relevant organization, but work within Fodor's rules) CAN disagree.

dwdvagamundo

Thanks everyone.

Rialtogirl, we were thinking over the weekend of doing the following: drive Barcelona to Roncevalles via Zaragoza. Then drive more or less along or parallel to the Camino to Santiago --this is the route that Robert mentions in his first response. We'd take four nites or so to get there. Drop the car there and fly or train to Madrid and, if we have time, spend a nite or two in Toledo.

Agree about not driving in Madrid--we did it on our first trip, and it wasn't bad, but that was years ago. We had much more trouble with the car in Sevilla and Granada.

Hate to have to forego Salamanca, but one can never see everything.

To Robert and Ribeira--thank for all the tips. We are not nearly at the stage of planning where to stay or where to eat.

dwdvagamundo

I've checked a couple of travel guides, and they both say we can drive from Roncevalles to SdC in six days. So if we decide to do this, I think it's doable, particularly as we'll probably have from 17 to 20 nites on the ground.

One other thought was to drive from Barcelona to Perpignan, then (via Carcassonne) to Pau and down to Roncevalles that way. It looks like it's only a couple of hours more than via Zaragoza.

Now, the only problem is persuading Mrs. Vagamundo to do it, as she does not like one-nite stops. I don't either, but don't see any other way to do this, as there does not appear to be any good base cities we could use.

Robert2533

The drive to Pau can be a little boring unless you to up through the pass at Formiga, but heading in to Roncesvalles you'll be passsing along the route of the cheese and into the a couple of great wine regions including the Jurançon and Irouléguy.

Stop for lunch in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port at Les Pyrénées (http://hotel-les-pyrenees.com), considered by most to be the best restaurant in the region. There is also La Ferme Gourmande (www.restaurant-fermegourmande.com) in Landaburia, a few kms away. Reservations are required.

If you do drive on the French side, be sure to check out the wines from the Ariège appellation, which is perched in the peaks and foothills of the Pyrenees, along the French border with Andorra and Spain.

joannyc

I did this trip of northwestern Spain an about 3 1/2 weeks. If you play it slideshow mode, you can see the descriptions I've added to many of the pics.

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-pictures.cfm