amsdon

1. If you had to choose between seeing Sevilla during Semana Santa and Feria de Abril, which would you recommend first and why?

This would not be the first time visiting Sevilla just these events.

2. Is there another city that you would recommend for Semana Santa as well?
Thanks

hanl

I'd vote for Semana Santa, because (I think) it is easier for a foreigner/tourist to enjoy and appreciate the events. The feria is great too, but unless you dance sevillanas or have an invitation to a caseta, I think it would be less fun. The funfair is OK, and the horses and general atmosphere are pretty special, but I think it's more enjoyable for locals than for tourists.

That's not to say the feria isn't great fun or you wouldn't have a good time there, I just think if you had to choose one or other, you'd get more out of your trip if you were there during Semana Santa.

I also love the atmosphere in Granada during Semana Santa, particularly the "gypsy" procession ("el cristo de los gitanos&quotwhich I think is on Ash Wednesday (i.e. the Wed before Easter Sunday). As is the case for all the "pasos", they carry their effigies through the streets of the city, but unlike the others, the gypsies actually *run* with theirs, barefoot. After night falls, as they return up the hill to the Sacromonte area, people light bonfires along the paths and the hillside, so it's quite an amazing spectacle. When they return to their starting point at the end of the procession (at about 4 am), they make the effigy of the Virgin "dance" with Christ, accompanied by lots of flamenco singing. (At least, this is what they did when I last saw the procession in 1995 - am assuming things haven't changed!)

Lolly100

I was in Seville this past April during Feria. I was just a tourist & not invited to any of the casetas, but I still thought it was wonderful. It's so much fun to see everyone dressed in flamenco dresses and it's such a joyous atmosphere! Literally people dancing in the streets. Are you going with children? During Feria, they also have a large carnival with rides and games.

I was not there during Semana Santa, so I can't really say which is better. But I wanted to let you know of my experience during Feria.

Also, keep in mind hotel rates are double during these times.

blackduff

I would agree with Lolly. It's still fun to visit during the Feria. I've been to both and the Feria beats the Semana Santa to my tastes. The latter is a lot of standing and waiting.

I managed to visit the casetas and this improves the fun but overall it's a great period to visit in Sevilla.

Blackduff

Christina

I would choose the Feria because Semana Santa is a religious holiday, and I am not. In fact, I really dislike the whole thing and a lot of things about religion, but I do not believe in that stuff.

QueScaisJe

Another vote for Feria in Sevilla. I think it more clearly shows the unabashed exuberance of the people of Seville than Semana Santa. And Feria's way more fun!

Audie79

My husband and I were in Seville during the Feria this past April. I think the Feria would be more enjoyable if you are a local and are able to party with friends in the private casetas. We did enjoy walking around and taking in the fair atmosphere, but we didn't stay on the grounds long as there wasn't much to do. If you have children, the rides and games could be fun!

I think the parts we did enjoy about the fair were not on the grounds. For example, I was delighted each time I saw women in the city dressed in their traditional dresses.

We did go to a bull fight while there, which is a popular fair tradition and it was definately interesting!

Book a room soon though, as they are snatched up quickly and prices skyrocket!

Lolly100

Audie - I agree - the best part of Feria were all the beautiful dresses! Even little girls and babies wore flamenco dresses - so cute!

I also went to a bullfight during Feria. Audie, what did you think of it? I was suprised at the seating in the rink in Seville - no aisles! I am glad I went since it is a part of the culture, but I wouldn't want to go again. I knew it would be hard for me to watch, but it was even harder than I thought!

Audie79

Lolly - I'm with you in that I'm glad we went to see it becase it is part of their culture, but I do not need to go again! Sitting in such tight quarters was an experience! I was glad I was in formal dress like many there. I found a lot of things interesting - from the fact that it seems more of an art then a sport to all of the whispering to get people to be quiet.

Audie79

Sorry, I was NOT in a formal dress, thankfully!

Lolly100

Audie,
So interesting to hear your thoughts about the bullfight because I thought the exact same things! I was surprised to see many people formally dressed. And I was also surprised how quiet arena was. I expected more noise, but you're right, everyone was whispering and "shush-ing" people who talked too loudly. They definitely take it seriously!

blackduff

Okay, maybe I'm sour grapes about bullfighting. I find that this is the most horrible and as you learn more, it's even worse.

My collegues that I knew when I lived in Spain were split. About 50% were pro and 50% had the same of my mind. I find that the younger people are moving away from the Corrida.

To me, the starting of the corridas, is a negative of the feria.

Now, I'll get off from my stool and be positive about the feria. Here's a good part of the feria. Young girls about five years old can dance on the Seviallana. No wonder the girls dance so well.

Blackduff

amsdon

I am enjoying the feedback.
Thank you very much.

I want to see and hear a saeta in person during Semana Santa but also experience Feria personally. I have no problem with the casetas I know they are private in general.

So far few have experienced Semana Santa...

I also was hoping to have feedback about Semana Santa in one city versus another.... any comments

amsdon

BTW Hanl...Granada during SS sounds great too. The Granada Semana Santa sounds great and different from the others cities. Again I have no prob with that either just unfortunately only so much time. Like this would be at trip in 09. Have you experienecd it elsewhere in Spain too?

When you were in Granada where did you stay?

Thanks

ams

WTnow

We experienced Semana Santa this year in our small white village ( first night) and then the rest in Seville.

I LOVE the festivals in our tiny , beautiful white village...partly because I know all of the people that are in it and watching it. ( very small town).

I enjoyed it in Seville, but was a little disappointed as it is a mad house and the weather was the worse that we have experienced in a whole winter in Spain.

We had spent time in early March in Seville in glorious weather with family and that was so much nicer...no crowds.

Of course I am someone who does not enjoy crowds stuffed into tiny areas as I think it can be dangerous.

Nevertheless we did have some thrilling moments and I am glad I saw Semana Santa in Seville, but I do not care to go again.

As an outsider,there is not that much difference between each procession...once you have seen one, you have basically seen them all. Too much waiting, crowds, bad weather, late nights, hard work figuring it out.

We will try the Fiera next year I think as I do want to see the girls dressed in flaminco dresses on horses and such.

We will enjoy the small town Holy Week.

WTnow

Here is what I wrote about it at the time:

http://www.soultravelers3.com/blog/C...225526B71.html

hanl

Amsdon, time is always the big issue on holiday isn't it!! (so much to see, so little time...!)

I have experienced Semana Santa in Seville and in Granada. I know Seville has the more famous processions, but I really liked the atmosphere in Granada best. However, I was living right on Plaza Bib'Rambla in Granada at the time and many of the pasos passed right underneath my bedroom window, so that probably added to my enjoyment.

In Granada, also loved the "silent" night-time procession that passed through the streets marked only by the beat of a drum. Sent shivers down my spine.

I've been to the Feria too, and though I enjoyed it, I spent much of the time wishing I knew how to dance sevillanas, as it looked like a lot of fun but I was disappointed I couldn't join in. There were so many people I also found things a bit overwhelming (I got separated from my friends and found myself lost, alone in the middle of the feria at 2 am!)
Since then, I've learned how to dance sevillanas and am hoping to go back to Seville so that I can really join in the fun and dancing! Friends of my family have a caseta, so if I do go I should be able to enjoy celebrating with the locals a bit more.

hanl

Oh, forgot, have also been in Nerja (Costa del Sol) during Semana Santa. Much smaller scale, but still enjoyable. Lovely beach there too

Aduchamp1

A non-sequitor.

If you want to experience a different Semana Santa, try Antigua, Guatemala. Early Easter Sunday, before the final procession, carpets of colorful sawdust directly in the route. They can be highly eloborate or simple.

My wife and I have given up on religion but are still curious how the rest of the world lives. Which to us, is the basis of travel. Travel is not about us but others.

NEDSIRELAND

I wouldn't recommend either for Sevilla.
I don't know how flexible your schedule is, but may I suggest you consider the Feria del Campo and Romeria to the Santuario de la Virgen del Rocio (Huelva Province, near Almonte)? It peaks on Pentecost Sunday weekend (28 May 2008) and ends the following Tuesday. The last time I was there (5-years ago) people claimed there were a million Pilgrims: Police estimated 650,000 ... but that's still a lot of people!