San Sebastián how many ways can I say I love you?
Jul 14th, 2015, 07:37 AM
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San Sebastián how many ways can I say I love you?
San Sebastián I love you.
San Sebastián te quiero.
Donostia maite zaitit.
I think you get my point.
San Sebastián carried high expectations as I made my way into town last Wednesday, July 8. Having been built up in the words of Fodorites, many other World Wide Web writers, travel reporters and indeed my own friends and families, I expected big things from this gastronomic coastal wonderland. On day five of my first trip to Europe, from Australia, My two friends and I left the thriving metropolis of Barcelona early in the morning on the Renfe, arriving around lunchtime in San Sebastián. I think it's fair to say that train stations don't often paint the best impression of a town, and while this one certainly wasn't bad, the long snaking line for taxis that didn't seem to be appearing didn't look promising. I would have been happy to walk but with dozens of kgs in luggage between us, we decided I would to get the keys to our apartment from the company we had booked through, while the other two ladies waited for me to return. Whoever could get a taxi first would pick the others up. Sounded easy. Things were going ok til I was almost at my destination but couldn't quite see the street I was told to go to. I asked a local and was quickly helped despite their lack of English and my lack of Spanish, or Basque. This was repeated when I then couldn't find the taxi rank (turns out instructions to go left and left should have included a third left - so simple but no so when you're tired, in a strange place and don't speak the language), as an elderly lady understand the word taxi when I asked and placed her hand on my back to walk me to the rank. I had a wait here too, but managed to get one before the other girls. The driver spoke no English so I used my phrase book to give him our address, but to first ask him to go back to the train station for mis amigos. It worked! My first attempt in such a situation and it wasn't a disaster. I liked San Sebastián immediately!
While everyone - or almost everyone - seemed to speak English in Barcelona, this turned out not to be the case in San Sebastián, with French more commonly taught in schools, I was told, due to the proximity of the beach haven to France's border.
Where to start? Rather than give a blow by blow description of my 3.5 days and four nights in San Sebastián, I will give an overview of the things I did, and summarise what I loved.
1. Massage at La Perla (my tired and aching body, recovering from a foot injury had been put through the ringer in Barcelona, walking and walking for hours a day on top of a couple of runs). My masseuse was a lovely local lady and I thoroughly enjoyed our conversation as she gave me a local perspective on the Spanish economic situation among other things.
2. Walking tour of the old town. Our guide, a young but very mature local who studied history at university, gave a terrific overview of the local history, politics, etc. We toured parts of the old town I hadn't even known were there (this was day three) including the monastery and museum.
3. Lay on La Concha and talked to a fellow traveller, from France. Neither of us spoke each other's language but we each tried and it was a nice experience - it's good to be outside your comfort zone and communicating with strangers beats staying locked in your shell sometimes.
4. Had my hair done at a local salon, Peluqueria Maitesv. The ladies spoke a couple of words of English but I had to use my phrase book to communicate what I wanted. They did a brilliant job of my colour and were absolutely delightful people to meet. That was consistent with most people in Spain, I found.
5. Found good coffee at
San Sebastián te quiero.
Donostia maite zaitit.
I think you get my point.
San Sebastián carried high expectations as I made my way into town last Wednesday, July 8. Having been built up in the words of Fodorites, many other World Wide Web writers, travel reporters and indeed my own friends and families, I expected big things from this gastronomic coastal wonderland. On day five of my first trip to Europe, from Australia, My two friends and I left the thriving metropolis of Barcelona early in the morning on the Renfe, arriving around lunchtime in San Sebastián. I think it's fair to say that train stations don't often paint the best impression of a town, and while this one certainly wasn't bad, the long snaking line for taxis that didn't seem to be appearing didn't look promising. I would have been happy to walk but with dozens of kgs in luggage between us, we decided I would to get the keys to our apartment from the company we had booked through, while the other two ladies waited for me to return. Whoever could get a taxi first would pick the others up. Sounded easy. Things were going ok til I was almost at my destination but couldn't quite see the street I was told to go to. I asked a local and was quickly helped despite their lack of English and my lack of Spanish, or Basque. This was repeated when I then couldn't find the taxi rank (turns out instructions to go left and left should have included a third left - so simple but no so when you're tired, in a strange place and don't speak the language), as an elderly lady understand the word taxi when I asked and placed her hand on my back to walk me to the rank. I had a wait here too, but managed to get one before the other girls. The driver spoke no English so I used my phrase book to give him our address, but to first ask him to go back to the train station for mis amigos. It worked! My first attempt in such a situation and it wasn't a disaster. I liked San Sebastián immediately!
While everyone - or almost everyone - seemed to speak English in Barcelona, this turned out not to be the case in San Sebastián, with French more commonly taught in schools, I was told, due to the proximity of the beach haven to France's border.
Where to start? Rather than give a blow by blow description of my 3.5 days and four nights in San Sebastián, I will give an overview of the things I did, and summarise what I loved.
1. Massage at La Perla (my tired and aching body, recovering from a foot injury had been put through the ringer in Barcelona, walking and walking for hours a day on top of a couple of runs). My masseuse was a lovely local lady and I thoroughly enjoyed our conversation as she gave me a local perspective on the Spanish economic situation among other things.
2. Walking tour of the old town. Our guide, a young but very mature local who studied history at university, gave a terrific overview of the local history, politics, etc. We toured parts of the old town I hadn't even known were there (this was day three) including the monastery and museum.
3. Lay on La Concha and talked to a fellow traveller, from France. Neither of us spoke each other's language but we each tried and it was a nice experience - it's good to be outside your comfort zone and communicating with strangers beats staying locked in your shell sometimes.
4. Had my hair done at a local salon, Peluqueria Maitesv. The ladies spoke a couple of words of English but I had to use my phrase book to communicate what I wanted. They did a brilliant job of my colour and were absolutely delightful people to meet. That was consistent with most people in Spain, I found.
5. Found good coffee at
Jul 14th, 2015, 07:58 AM
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Agh the perils of an iPhone!
I am sorry, I accidentally hit submit. Let me continue ...
5. Found good coffee at Koh Tao. It's a grungy little cafe, which does a fantastic breakfast of toast, tomato and olive oil for a tiny price, around €3.50. I went there twice.
6. Enjoyed a champagne breakfast for my birthday on Saturday at a little cafe between our apartment in San Bartolme and the beach. Another Spanish toast, tomato and olive oil breakfast went down well.
7. These last few points are my favourites. I enjoyed a terrific 12km run with a local running group I found online, which starts at Ondaretta each morning. They were so lovely and kind, overjoyed that someone from Australia had found them online and come to run with them. They asked a passer by to take our photo so they could put it online - and now they have! I ran with a small representation of them, around five, but they have up to 100 active members who take part in any number of twice daily runs. I will not forget this experience and they way the shared enjoyment of running can create instant amigos, again even when the runners do not speak much of each other's language.
8. Lunch for my birthday at the Michelin three star Akelare. Wow. I do not know how to describe the experience other than with that word - wow. I have never eaten such good, fresh, innovative, beautiful and delicious food. And I may never again. But that will be ok because I was lucky enough to experience Akelare. If anyone would like to know more about this stunning venue overlooking San Sebastián I would be happy to expand.
9. How can I get this far into a San Sebastián trip report and not talk about the pinxtos you ask? I was saving one of the best experiences (actually it's difficult to pick any of these listed as the best) for last. Thanks to kimhe I had a great list of local pinxtos bars, including those rated as the best. However in the end we were so transfixed by the old town's laneways and stunning vistas that we just meandered open mouthed, completely bewitched by the magic of each bar, wandering in and out until we found what we liked. We started in Calle Mayor, at Sirimiri, and would return here at least three other times. The pinxtos was so fresh, so beautifully presented, and the bar so well designed - we could watch as food was prepared - that it was hard not to be attracted to it. Other bars I liked included Nagusta Lau (I recommend the prawn and capsicum pinxtos salad for lunch with a glass of Rioja) and I went here twice and Ubarrechna, where we sampled the seafood paella. I understand Donostia is not known for its paella, but when in Spain ... And we didn't do one in Barcelona.
10. Shopping. I didn't mean to but I spent up in San Sebastián. It's array of boutiques so hard to resist, summer sales and stylish affordable outfits seemingly throwing themselves at me!
I miss San Sebastián already. And I really do hope I get the chance to go back. It's perhaps the most friendly, welcoming, sincere place I have ever been. While it has the right to scream arrogance with its stunning good looks, it chooses to be humble in its beauty.
Til next time San Sebastián ...
I am sorry, I accidentally hit submit. Let me continue ...
5. Found good coffee at Koh Tao. It's a grungy little cafe, which does a fantastic breakfast of toast, tomato and olive oil for a tiny price, around €3.50. I went there twice.
6. Enjoyed a champagne breakfast for my birthday on Saturday at a little cafe between our apartment in San Bartolme and the beach. Another Spanish toast, tomato and olive oil breakfast went down well.
7. These last few points are my favourites. I enjoyed a terrific 12km run with a local running group I found online, which starts at Ondaretta each morning. They were so lovely and kind, overjoyed that someone from Australia had found them online and come to run with them. They asked a passer by to take our photo so they could put it online - and now they have! I ran with a small representation of them, around five, but they have up to 100 active members who take part in any number of twice daily runs. I will not forget this experience and they way the shared enjoyment of running can create instant amigos, again even when the runners do not speak much of each other's language.
8. Lunch for my birthday at the Michelin three star Akelare. Wow. I do not know how to describe the experience other than with that word - wow. I have never eaten such good, fresh, innovative, beautiful and delicious food. And I may never again. But that will be ok because I was lucky enough to experience Akelare. If anyone would like to know more about this stunning venue overlooking San Sebastián I would be happy to expand.
9. How can I get this far into a San Sebastián trip report and not talk about the pinxtos you ask? I was saving one of the best experiences (actually it's difficult to pick any of these listed as the best) for last. Thanks to kimhe I had a great list of local pinxtos bars, including those rated as the best. However in the end we were so transfixed by the old town's laneways and stunning vistas that we just meandered open mouthed, completely bewitched by the magic of each bar, wandering in and out until we found what we liked. We started in Calle Mayor, at Sirimiri, and would return here at least three other times. The pinxtos was so fresh, so beautifully presented, and the bar so well designed - we could watch as food was prepared - that it was hard not to be attracted to it. Other bars I liked included Nagusta Lau (I recommend the prawn and capsicum pinxtos salad for lunch with a glass of Rioja) and I went here twice and Ubarrechna, where we sampled the seafood paella. I understand Donostia is not known for its paella, but when in Spain ... And we didn't do one in Barcelona.
10. Shopping. I didn't mean to but I spent up in San Sebastián. It's array of boutiques so hard to resist, summer sales and stylish affordable outfits seemingly throwing themselves at me!
I miss San Sebastián already. And I really do hope I get the chance to go back. It's perhaps the most friendly, welcoming, sincere place I have ever been. While it has the right to scream arrogance with its stunning good looks, it chooses to be humble in its beauty.
Til next time San Sebastián ...
Jul 14th, 2015, 08:00 AM
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PS perhaps someone can help me - because I didn't mean to hit submit before I was finished, I hadn't selected 'trip report', or tagged Spain. Is there any way this can be done? It doesn't look like it from my phone ...
RT
RT
Jul 14th, 2015, 10:33 AM
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Sebastian bat ba da zeruan, Donosti bat bakarra munduan...
/There is only one San Sebastián in heaven, and there is only one Donostia on earth... (The march of San Sebastián, 1861)
Thanks for a spirited report with great tips and observations. Pretty sure this is not your last visit to Donostia.
The annual Tamborrada (drum festival) celebration in mid winter is a quintessential expression of the San Sebastián spirit. Here is the city choir Orfeón Donostiarra leading the crowds on the main square in San Sebastián's Old town singing for the 75th anniversary of one of the city's most famous gastronomic societies (Gaztelubide) during the Tamborrada in 2008. Poor quality video, but everything else is out of this world (or San Sebastián ;-)) : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhncDjXMeQ4
/There is only one San Sebastián in heaven, and there is only one Donostia on earth... (The march of San Sebastián, 1861)
Thanks for a spirited report with great tips and observations. Pretty sure this is not your last visit to Donostia.
The annual Tamborrada (drum festival) celebration in mid winter is a quintessential expression of the San Sebastián spirit. Here is the city choir Orfeón Donostiarra leading the crowds on the main square in San Sebastián's Old town singing for the 75th anniversary of one of the city's most famous gastronomic societies (Gaztelubide) during the Tamborrada in 2008. Poor quality video, but everything else is out of this world (or San Sebastián ;-)) : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhncDjXMeQ4
Jul 15th, 2015, 11:05 AM
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@RT2015 You should totally go back and get it! 
I feel a bit in love with the place just by reading your review honestly!
Precious tips too, I'll make a note of them for future travels around that area!
I feel a bit in love with the place just by reading your review honestly!
Precious tips too, I'll make a note of them for future travels around that area!
Jul 17th, 2015, 10:04 AM
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I would lovoe to hear any and all details about lunch at Akelarre.
I will be returning to San Sebastian in October and while I plan to eat at Extebarri, I've not booked any multi-starred restaurants in San Sebastian. Thinking about doing so but which to choose? I enjoy so much the wandering around and snacking on pinxtos that I am loathe to commit to a long, long sit down dinner. But I can be persuaded!
Where did you stay.I must ahve missed that detail..many thanks!
I will be returning to San Sebastian in October and while I plan to eat at Extebarri, I've not booked any multi-starred restaurants in San Sebastian. Thinking about doing so but which to choose? I enjoy so much the wandering around and snacking on pinxtos that I am loathe to commit to a long, long sit down dinner. But I can be persuaded!
Where did you stay.I must ahve missed that detail..many thanks!
Jul 25th, 2015, 09:20 PM
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Thanks Unboundly. I have since left more of my heart in Monterosso and Ortisei so it's going to be in pieces by the time I get home!
ekscrunchy, I totally know what you mean. We did lunch and it wasn't just sitting and eating ... Ok yes it was ... A lot!!! But wow the experience. I would never ever normally spend so much on myself but I will treasure this experience forever and ever. It was out of this world. The service, the wine (which was very reasonable and they didn't even try to up sell - in fact they offered us one of the lower priced ones as their recommendation). I had the classic tasting menu, a friend had the akanori and our other friend had a specially prepared menu as she is vegetarian. Read below and if you have any questions let me know. But it was sensational. A benefit of lunch is the amazing view. We had a cloudy day but it was still beautiful!
http://www.akelarre.net/public_cocina/ctrl_cocina.php
ekscrunchy, I totally know what you mean. We did lunch and it wasn't just sitting and eating ... Ok yes it was ... A lot!!! But wow the experience. I would never ever normally spend so much on myself but I will treasure this experience forever and ever. It was out of this world. The service, the wine (which was very reasonable and they didn't even try to up sell - in fact they offered us one of the lower priced ones as their recommendation). I had the classic tasting menu, a friend had the akanori and our other friend had a specially prepared menu as she is vegetarian. Read below and if you have any questions let me know. But it was sensational. A benefit of lunch is the amazing view. We had a cloudy day but it was still beautiful!
http://www.akelarre.net/public_cocina/ctrl_cocina.php
Jul 26th, 2015, 12:55 AM
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<they didn't even try to up sell>
That's also my experience. Had a memory for life lunch at Akelarre for about 100€ pp a couple of years ago. A long tradition for witchcraft in the Basque country, and Akelarre means "witches sabbath" in Basque. The restaurant definitely uses its witchcraft to create much positive magic. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Akelarre_(witchcraft)
We had the "Sea garden" appetizers, the traditional and local fish and shellfish soup "a la Donostiarra", Hake and its Kokotxa with Oyster and Oyster Leaf, Grilled Iberic “Secreto” with Pepper seeds and Garlic in three different versions (we had two half main dishes on their suggestion, made it much more affordable!), chocolates and a couple of glasses of wine.
I will especially remember the Akelarre version of the fabulous San Sebastián fish and shellfish soup (a la Donostiarra, which usually is excellent also in "normal" restaurants up here, highly recommended!), and the Hake and Kokotxa is perhaps the best thing I've ever eaten. This page gives you an idea: http://driftingepicure.com/2013/03/28/akelarre-review/
And here is a serious Akelarre in the Zugarramurdi caves 25 miles from San Sebastian. From the horror-comedy Las Brujas de Zugarramurdi "The Witches of Zugarramurdi" (2013). The brilliant singer-songwriter Mikel Laboa from San Sebastian (1934-2008) sings Baga Biga Higa backed by the San Sebastian city choir Orfeon Donostiarra. Enjoy! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vc-xVbHlNM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxVFemjuJjM
They've even got a Museo de las Brujas (Witches museum) in Zugarramurdi: http://www.turismozugarramurdi.com/s...de_las_brujas/
So guess we should all take good care of our Akelarre moments ;-)
That's also my experience. Had a memory for life lunch at Akelarre for about 100€ pp a couple of years ago. A long tradition for witchcraft in the Basque country, and Akelarre means "witches sabbath" in Basque. The restaurant definitely uses its witchcraft to create much positive magic. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Akelarre_(witchcraft)
We had the "Sea garden" appetizers, the traditional and local fish and shellfish soup "a la Donostiarra", Hake and its Kokotxa with Oyster and Oyster Leaf, Grilled Iberic “Secreto” with Pepper seeds and Garlic in three different versions (we had two half main dishes on their suggestion, made it much more affordable!), chocolates and a couple of glasses of wine.
I will especially remember the Akelarre version of the fabulous San Sebastián fish and shellfish soup (a la Donostiarra, which usually is excellent also in "normal" restaurants up here, highly recommended!), and the Hake and Kokotxa is perhaps the best thing I've ever eaten. This page gives you an idea: http://driftingepicure.com/2013/03/28/akelarre-review/
And here is a serious Akelarre in the Zugarramurdi caves 25 miles from San Sebastian. From the horror-comedy Las Brujas de Zugarramurdi "The Witches of Zugarramurdi" (2013). The brilliant singer-songwriter Mikel Laboa from San Sebastian (1934-2008) sings Baga Biga Higa backed by the San Sebastian city choir Orfeon Donostiarra. Enjoy! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vc-xVbHlNM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxVFemjuJjM
They've even got a Museo de las Brujas (Witches museum) in Zugarramurdi: http://www.turismozugarramurdi.com/s...de_las_brujas/
So guess we should all take good care of our Akelarre moments ;-)
Jul 26th, 2015, 02:30 AM
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I also went to San Sebastian the first time with a list of recommended places but it wasn't long before I'd put the map and list to away and just followed my nose and whims. Who knows what I missed, but I ended up some very atmospheric places eating some shockingly good and mainly seasonal food that suited my palate perfectly, and over the entire evenining, it worked as a whole -- meaning, the sequence of things that I ate flowed as entire taste experience, instead of being disjointed and a jumble of eating something recommended just because it was next on the map and I was there, even if it didn't really match well with what I had eaten at the last stop. Also, while the elaborate and creative pinxtos are definitely fun, there are a some local bar staples that are deeply delicious and made so well, with such good ingredients, they were just as rewarding to discover even though people rarely talk about them.
If it didn't rain so much there, I would be happy to live in San Sebastian.
If it didn't rain so much there, I would be happy to live in San Sebastian.
Jul 26th, 2015, 02:54 AM
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"If it didn't rain so much there, I would be happy to live in San Sebastian."
I think San Sebastian is at its prettiest during and right after rain-storms. Also very special atmosphere in the bars and under the archways when people run in anywhere to take cover, could be the start of an unplanned great night out...
But this definitely gives meaning to the Donostiarras: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZ8IoszA4Y0
I think San Sebastian is at its prettiest during and right after rain-storms. Also very special atmosphere in the bars and under the archways when people run in anywhere to take cover, could be the start of an unplanned great night out...
But this definitely gives meaning to the Donostiarras: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZ8IoszA4Y0
Jul 26th, 2015, 04:08 AM
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When so in the San Sebastian mood, here is Mikel Laboa singing the unofficial Basque national anthem Txoria Txori with the Orfeon Donostiarra. The Basque lyrics translates "If I had cut off its wings, it would have been mine, it couldn't escape. But then, it would no longer be a bird". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83J1hlXNR5M
Joan Baez did Txoria Txori in the Bilbao bullring in 1988, and was warmly welcomed to say the least...: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63GO1URJKOs
About the life and work of the remarkable child psychiatrist and artist Mikel Laboa (1934-2008). Laboa has been, and still is, very important for his home town San Sebastian and Basque culture in general. http://www.theguardian.com/music/200...laboa-obituary
Joan Baez did Txoria Txori in the Bilbao bullring in 1988, and was warmly welcomed to say the least...: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63GO1URJKOs
About the life and work of the remarkable child psychiatrist and artist Mikel Laboa (1934-2008). Laboa has been, and still is, very important for his home town San Sebastian and Basque culture in general. http://www.theguardian.com/music/200...laboa-obituary
Jul 26th, 2015, 12:49 PM
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SAndra and Kimhe, thank you for your insightful comments above.
I am about to book San Sebastian for 5 nights (have been several times but not with current partner). So now am about convinced to book Akelarre as well but need more research as I said above, do not want to reserve too many long fancy mid-day meals and dinner is served pretty late for me to be comfortable.
So Kimhe, here is a personal question: have you been to Mexico and if so, do you like any of the music of that country? I am an aficionado of (some would call it an old fashioned genre) ranchera, among other types of Mexican music, and curious if you have any interest there….
The legend, the one and only, the best of the best:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jos%C3...o_Jim%C3%A9nez
Perhaps the most beautiful of all the voices:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Javier_Sol%C3%ADs
Not a beautiful voice but oh, the emotion:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chavela_Vargas
And speaking of old fashioned but marvelous female singers:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lola_Beltr%C3%A1n
I am about to book San Sebastian for 5 nights (have been several times but not with current partner). So now am about convinced to book Akelarre as well but need more research as I said above, do not want to reserve too many long fancy mid-day meals and dinner is served pretty late for me to be comfortable.
So Kimhe, here is a personal question: have you been to Mexico and if so, do you like any of the music of that country? I am an aficionado of (some would call it an old fashioned genre) ranchera, among other types of Mexican music, and curious if you have any interest there….
The legend, the one and only, the best of the best:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jos%C3...o_Jim%C3%A9nez
Perhaps the most beautiful of all the voices:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Javier_Sol%C3%ADs
Not a beautiful voice but oh, the emotion:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chavela_Vargas
And speaking of old fashioned but marvelous female singers:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lola_Beltr%C3%A1n
Jul 27th, 2015, 01:09 AM
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Never been to Mexico, but would love to go and should be making plans for a little down the road.
I know none of those you listed, but first listenings were brilliant!
Somewhat related, I've been a big fan of Mexican-American Lila Downs since she released La Linea/The border in 2001. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsCH22nSlvo
Think she made a fabulous work in the Frida Kahlo movie, almost scary how she almost impersonates the real Kahlo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNHqPGTMNWQ
And here's Kahlo's close friend Chavela Vargas singing the same La Llorona in the same movie: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg1J3m1FazU
Lila Downs together with fabulous Cayetano Veloso on Frida: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTMSojPcF1g
The Llorona legend seems to be the stuff that much imagination and art can be made of: http://www.inside-mexico.com/la-llor...d-lamentation/
And La Llorona seems to have good resaons to live on in Mexico. I'm just now reading Roberto Balaño's masterpiece last novel 2666. Eventually revolves around the brutal killings of hundreds of women in Ciudad Juárez (Santa Teresa in the book, same place that the plain fantastic "The Savage detectives" left off) from the early 1990's. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/11/09/bo...anted=all&_r=0
Thanks for reviving some old Maexico travel plans!
I know none of those you listed, but first listenings were brilliant!
Somewhat related, I've been a big fan of Mexican-American Lila Downs since she released La Linea/The border in 2001. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsCH22nSlvo
Think she made a fabulous work in the Frida Kahlo movie, almost scary how she almost impersonates the real Kahlo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNHqPGTMNWQ
And here's Kahlo's close friend Chavela Vargas singing the same La Llorona in the same movie: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg1J3m1FazU
Lila Downs together with fabulous Cayetano Veloso on Frida: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTMSojPcF1g
The Llorona legend seems to be the stuff that much imagination and art can be made of: http://www.inside-mexico.com/la-llor...d-lamentation/
And La Llorona seems to have good resaons to live on in Mexico. I'm just now reading Roberto Balaño's masterpiece last novel 2666. Eventually revolves around the brutal killings of hundreds of women in Ciudad Juárez (Santa Teresa in the book, same place that the plain fantastic "The Savage detectives" left off) from the early 1990's. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/11/09/bo...anted=all&_r=0
Thanks for reviving some old Maexico travel plans!
Jul 27th, 2015, 05:11 AM
#15
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Yes! I saw Lila Downs in Carnegie Hall a few years ago. She now has a restaurant outside Oaxaca city so another reason for you to plan that trip!
(I did not make it there but will in future)
https://www.facebook.com/tierradelsol.mx
Take a look at this photo!!
http://www.sacurrent.com/sanantonio/...nt?oid=2324476
This is an excellent book for you during travel planning for Mexico; marvelous!
http://www.amazon.com/First-Stop-Wor...+the+new+world
Also see my own trip report from last fall, mostly about food but we did go to hear mariachis in the Sheraton iin Mexico City which I recommend highly.
http://www.fodors.com/community/mexi...bla-oaxaca.cfm
I have sick partner here at home so while I play nurse (no uniform, though!) we are listening to old Mexican cd's of mine…..another one for you to hear is the classic by Edyie Gorme and Trio Los Panchos; this is not ranchera but harmonic trio music, sung by a Jewish female from the Bronx. Legendary and still fresh after all these years.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Los_Panchos
http://www.amazon.com/Canta-Espanol-.../dp/B000002DFR
And I cannot leave now without a mention of Mariachi Vargas and, surprisingly, Linda Ronstadt:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vargas_de_Tecalitl%C3%A1n
http://www.amazon.com/Linda-Ronstadt.../dp/B000002H5C
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canciones_de_Mi_Padre
(I did not make it there but will in future)
https://www.facebook.com/tierradelsol.mx
Take a look at this photo!!
http://www.sacurrent.com/sanantonio/...nt?oid=2324476
This is an excellent book for you during travel planning for Mexico; marvelous!
http://www.amazon.com/First-Stop-Wor...+the+new+world
Also see my own trip report from last fall, mostly about food but we did go to hear mariachis in the Sheraton iin Mexico City which I recommend highly.
http://www.fodors.com/community/mexi...bla-oaxaca.cfm
I have sick partner here at home so while I play nurse (no uniform, though!) we are listening to old Mexican cd's of mine…..another one for you to hear is the classic by Edyie Gorme and Trio Los Panchos; this is not ranchera but harmonic trio music, sung by a Jewish female from the Bronx. Legendary and still fresh after all these years.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Los_Panchos
http://www.amazon.com/Canta-Espanol-.../dp/B000002DFR
And I cannot leave now without a mention of Mariachi Vargas and, surprisingly, Linda Ronstadt:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vargas_de_Tecalitl%C3%A1n
http://www.amazon.com/Linda-Ronstadt.../dp/B000002H5C
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canciones_de_Mi_Padre
Jul 27th, 2015, 05:33 AM
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really must add this to this thread, since it has veered into Mexican-American female singers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpcWW5UIP6Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpcWW5UIP6Y
Jul 27th, 2015, 09:04 AM
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Thanks ekscrunchy for great information on both Lila Downs, Mexican music, litterature etc, and to Sandralist for the great Ciudad Juárez/Chicano tune. This made me exited. For a long time I thought I would go to Argentina as a first country south of the US, but it might just as well be Mexico. Had plans to go here some 30 years ago, and we loved living in the Bay Area and visiting Southern California in 2001. Here is perhaps just the push I needed to go on with the Mexico plans. But first I have to land Bolaño's massive epos about the dark sides of "Santa Teresa" ;-)
And now back to the OP's San Sebastian and the Basque Country, and there is of course also a very high number of people of Basque descent in Mexico... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basque...tion_to_Mexico
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basque_diaspora
And now back to the OP's San Sebastian and the Basque Country, and there is of course also a very high number of people of Basque descent in Mexico... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basque...tion_to_Mexico
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basque_diaspora
Jul 28th, 2015, 01:07 AM
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Goodness, not sure how we got to Mexico but I do love the weaves and turns of a conversation on here.
I meant to say I stayed in an apartment in San Bartolme which I booked through Airbnb. I was with two friends so we had a three bedroom. It was basic, but clean and inoffensive. It was noisy for my friend in the front room though as our place was opposite a nightclub!
I meant to say I stayed in an apartment in San Bartolme which I booked through Airbnb. I was with two friends so we had a three bedroom. It was basic, but clean and inoffensive. It was noisy for my friend in the front room though as our place was opposite a nightclub!
Aug 7th, 2015, 02:33 PM
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<Goodness, not sure how we got to Mexico>
I just found out that in his famous "Teoría y juego del duende" (Theory and play of the duende") Lorca says": "In all the world only Mexico can grasp my country’s hand." ;-) http://www.poetryintranslation.com/P...orcaDuende.htm
I just found out that in his famous "Teoría y juego del duende" (Theory and play of the duende") Lorca says": "In all the world only Mexico can grasp my country’s hand." ;-) http://www.poetryintranslation.com/P...orcaDuende.htm
Aug 7th, 2015, 06:36 PM
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Dear RT2015.
Thank you thank you for this wonderful trip report. Just came across it and read it to my husband as we sip a bit of post work day wine and discuss the world and our future travels to Spain.
We too are going to Akelare which I gather is a bit more relaxed in form than some of the other wonderful restaurants in the area. Your description of the dining experience brought tears to our eyes. So beautiful. We will hold down our expectations. Just in case. Cant imagine why.
We have booked a drive of the coast line between San Sebastian and places close to Bilboa due to not wanting to spend loads of driving to visit the Rioja. Too much for old folks like us!
Can any of you wonderful Fodorites recommend a simple fresh restaurant on the coast say at Getaria or somewhere else along that part of the coast line?
Any help you can provide would be terrific. Figure folks reading this amazing report might have opinions on this.
Cheers,
Thank you thank you for this wonderful trip report. Just came across it and read it to my husband as we sip a bit of post work day wine and discuss the world and our future travels to Spain.
We too are going to Akelare which I gather is a bit more relaxed in form than some of the other wonderful restaurants in the area. Your description of the dining experience brought tears to our eyes. So beautiful. We will hold down our expectations. Just in case. Cant imagine why.
We have booked a drive of the coast line between San Sebastian and places close to Bilboa due to not wanting to spend loads of driving to visit the Rioja. Too much for old folks like us!
Can any of you wonderful Fodorites recommend a simple fresh restaurant on the coast say at Getaria or somewhere else along that part of the coast line?
Any help you can provide would be terrific. Figure folks reading this amazing report might have opinions on this.
Cheers,
