S Urchin checking in from Sorrento
Nov 25th, 2004, 07:52 AM
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S Urchin checking in from Sorrento
Hi, I have been in Positano all week and right now I am biding some time in Sorrento at the internet right underneath the infamous webcam.
When I answer a few emails from home I will bop around a little in front the cam. I have some family who will stop cooking long enough to wave back at me I hope, maybe some of you too!
It has been really warm in the day in Positano, bright and sunny with little puffy white clouds blowing by, as soon as the sun goes down though it gets chilly. Last night it wasnt very cold and I took a nice walk down into Positano by the water, then caught the local internal bus back to the apartment.
Today I sunbathed and read my book and drank some Proscecco on my porch near the hotel Pasitea. It is really is a nice part of town and I havent stayed on this side before. My friend showed me some of the secret passages that connect the streets by steep steps so on one hand they are short cuts and on the other hand they are breathtaking. And to think I pay to walk on fake stairs at the gym at home !
I trudge up the steps and the locals of every age and capability pass me by carrying groceries and babies.
I came over to Sorrento and checked out my favorites shops and bought a little purse and some genuine Italian sunglasses. I went over to see the man who takes care of homeless and stray dogs in his woodcarving shop. He is such a nice person and takes donations to help the dogs, his shop is Fernando on via s. francesco.
One funny thing you might enjoy. I asked one of my friends why only a tabacci shop which is closed in the afternoon sold bus tickets when the busses run all day. I said what is the logic of this? And he looked at me with a straight face and said, well, would you buy oranges at a butcher shop? You just have to laugh it off and enjoy La Dolce Vita!
I am going back to Positano in a little while and have some thinly sliced turkey wrapped around proscutto and cheese for my Thanksgiving dinner.
Happy Thanksgiving to all Fodorites!
When I answer a few emails from home I will bop around a little in front the cam. I have some family who will stop cooking long enough to wave back at me I hope, maybe some of you too!
It has been really warm in the day in Positano, bright and sunny with little puffy white clouds blowing by, as soon as the sun goes down though it gets chilly. Last night it wasnt very cold and I took a nice walk down into Positano by the water, then caught the local internal bus back to the apartment.
Today I sunbathed and read my book and drank some Proscecco on my porch near the hotel Pasitea. It is really is a nice part of town and I havent stayed on this side before. My friend showed me some of the secret passages that connect the streets by steep steps so on one hand they are short cuts and on the other hand they are breathtaking. And to think I pay to walk on fake stairs at the gym at home !
I trudge up the steps and the locals of every age and capability pass me by carrying groceries and babies.
I came over to Sorrento and checked out my favorites shops and bought a little purse and some genuine Italian sunglasses. I went over to see the man who takes care of homeless and stray dogs in his woodcarving shop. He is such a nice person and takes donations to help the dogs, his shop is Fernando on via s. francesco.
One funny thing you might enjoy. I asked one of my friends why only a tabacci shop which is closed in the afternoon sold bus tickets when the busses run all day. I said what is the logic of this? And he looked at me with a straight face and said, well, would you buy oranges at a butcher shop? You just have to laugh it off and enjoy La Dolce Vita!
I am going back to Positano in a little while and have some thinly sliced turkey wrapped around proscutto and cheese for my Thanksgiving dinner.
Happy Thanksgiving to all Fodorites!
Nov 25th, 2004, 08:52 AM
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Sorrento must be like a second home for you!
I saw an old video of Venice, and it said that one thing that made life difficult is that you had to know exactly where to buy things. You might find safety pins at the a pet store for example, or shoelaces at a flower shop (can't remember the exact details, but along those lines). I don't know if that's the case anymore and if that was just restricted to Venice.
I saw an old video of Venice, and it said that one thing that made life difficult is that you had to know exactly where to buy things. You might find safety pins at the a pet store for example, or shoelaces at a flower shop (can't remember the exact details, but along those lines). I don't know if that's the case anymore and if that was just restricted to Venice.
Nov 25th, 2004, 11:54 AM
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SeaUrchin, I just took a quick break from the Thanksgiving dinner and read this. I think it is too late to check for you at the webcam but I am thinking of how wonderful it must be to be in Sorrento and Positano for Thanksgiving. Well, time for dessert and coffee. MIL brought delicious Italian pastries and, of course, we have mince and pumpkin pies, too!
Have a wonderful trip!
Have a wonderful trip!
Nov 25th, 2004, 01:58 PM
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Oranges at a butcher shop, pins at a pet shop.... In the same vein, an old joke:
A middle aged couple from the Wisconsin was visiting New York City. They decided to take a walk around some “ethnic” neighborhoods, because they had never seen such places at home. While they were at it, they were doing some window shopping, and they were hoping to get some Christmas shopping done—a nice watch for their niece, maybe. They passed store fronts with dishes, radios, linens, babies clothes, men’s clothes, and finally one that had nothing but watches in the window. Perfect, they thought. They entered the store, and indicated that they’d like to know the price of a pretty gold watch on the left of the display window. The elderly shopkeeper explained that it was not for sale. They selected another one. That one was also not for sale. Patiently, they asked to see the ladies’ watches that were for sale. “I dun’t sell vatches,” said the shopkeeper, with a heavy accent. “Oh, well, what other kinds of jewelry do you sell?” “I dun’t sell jewelry,” was the reply. “OK, so what DO you sell? We’re looking for a nice gift for our niece from New York.” The shopkeeper said, “I dun’t sell anything. I’m a mohel.” Exasperated, the woman blurted out, “Well, then why do you have watches all over your shop window for God’s sake?” And the mohel replied, with a shrug, “And vat ELSE I should put in the vindow?”
A middle aged couple from the Wisconsin was visiting New York City. They decided to take a walk around some “ethnic” neighborhoods, because they had never seen such places at home. While they were at it, they were doing some window shopping, and they were hoping to get some Christmas shopping done—a nice watch for their niece, maybe. They passed store fronts with dishes, radios, linens, babies clothes, men’s clothes, and finally one that had nothing but watches in the window. Perfect, they thought. They entered the store, and indicated that they’d like to know the price of a pretty gold watch on the left of the display window. The elderly shopkeeper explained that it was not for sale. They selected another one. That one was also not for sale. Patiently, they asked to see the ladies’ watches that were for sale. “I dun’t sell vatches,” said the shopkeeper, with a heavy accent. “Oh, well, what other kinds of jewelry do you sell?” “I dun’t sell jewelry,” was the reply. “OK, so what DO you sell? We’re looking for a nice gift for our niece from New York.” The shopkeeper said, “I dun’t sell anything. I’m a mohel.” Exasperated, the woman blurted out, “Well, then why do you have watches all over your shop window for God’s sake?” And the mohel replied, with a shrug, “And vat ELSE I should put in the vindow?”
Nov 26th, 2004, 02:50 AM
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Ciao, I am back at the computer because I went into a dress shop here in Positano and it is an internet site too! You just never know. Ladies are trying on skirts and tops right around the partition, funny.
It is another beautiful and sunny day, very warm in the sun and a little cool in the shade. I am on the way down to the beach to breathe some salt air and read my book in the sun.
It is a lazy day and tonight it is dinner in Montepertuso I think. Thank you for all the good wishes and I may be back in Sorrento tomorrow and will wave again. I spoke to the tabacci-man in front of the web cam and his name is Mauricio and the ceramic man introduced himself too but I was looking into his beautiful eyes and forgot his name. But I thought since we watch them all day on the web cam we Fodorites should know their names. They laughed when I told them about all of the women who are watching them every day. The ceramic man seemed to like the idea! I asked him to wave at us sometimes! He said OK!
Ciao for now, S.Urchin
It is another beautiful and sunny day, very warm in the sun and a little cool in the shade. I am on the way down to the beach to breathe some salt air and read my book in the sun.
It is a lazy day and tonight it is dinner in Montepertuso I think. Thank you for all the good wishes and I may be back in Sorrento tomorrow and will wave again. I spoke to the tabacci-man in front of the web cam and his name is Mauricio and the ceramic man introduced himself too but I was looking into his beautiful eyes and forgot his name. But I thought since we watch them all day on the web cam we Fodorites should know their names. They laughed when I told them about all of the women who are watching them every day. The ceramic man seemed to like the idea! I asked him to wave at us sometimes! He said OK!
Ciao for now, S.Urchin
Nov 27th, 2004, 07:13 AM
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Here I am again, it was moodily cloudy in Positano this morning so we leisurely drove over to Amalfi for lunch at Smeraldinos Restaurant on the bay. It is a wonderful place to sit and watch the sea churning and the little boats bobbing and whirling in the wind. We had the best lunch of seafood risotto and fresh whole fish, mixed salad, white wine and an array of creamy desserts with liquor as we lingered at the bay windows.
The waves were splashing the seawall and the swells were frantically slapping the rocks in the bay and it was misty but not raining.
The drive back through Positano was in the middle of the storm and I got to experience Inverno at its finest on the Amalfi Drive. The wind and rain were whipping the car and then breaks would appear in the clouds and we could see the islands and the coast farther along the road. My friend said The Coast is sad this time of year but I said it is exciting and makes your heart race and makes you feel alive.
Now I am in calm serene Sorrento at the internet for a while then I will do some Christmas shopping in a terracotta shop nearby where there are handmade figurines of nativity, local life and others of the local area. Ciao for now.
The waves were splashing the seawall and the swells were frantically slapping the rocks in the bay and it was misty but not raining.
The drive back through Positano was in the middle of the storm and I got to experience Inverno at its finest on the Amalfi Drive. The wind and rain were whipping the car and then breaks would appear in the clouds and we could see the islands and the coast farther along the road. My friend said The Coast is sad this time of year but I said it is exciting and makes your heart race and makes you feel alive.
Now I am in calm serene Sorrento at the internet for a while then I will do some Christmas shopping in a terracotta shop nearby where there are handmade figurines of nativity, local life and others of the local area. Ciao for now.
Nov 27th, 2004, 09:50 AM
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How thoughtful and clever of you to report back to all of us homebodies. Thank you for sharing your reports with us! You are so fortunate to be able to take the time to travel!!!!Have a wonderful time!
Nov 27th, 2004, 09:16 PM
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Hi Seaurchin-thanks for your little story of driving the Amalfi Coast in the early winter. That's one of my favorite times of year there and it was fun to catch a brief glimpse, which brings back so many beautiful memories..
I think you and your "friend" are both right, there is a certain sad quality in the off season, but at the same time a different current of excitement in the air. I love it- Enjoy the rest of your time there..
I think you and your "friend" are both right, there is a certain sad quality in the off season, but at the same time a different current of excitement in the air. I love it- Enjoy the rest of your time there..
Nov 28th, 2004, 03:51 AM
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Seaurchin, I wonder if you have ever checked the 3 blogging sites mentioned in the thread "Blogging from Paris.....".
They say you can get a free blogging account and then you can post the links here on the forum so people can read them! It might be a great way to give a running account of your Amalfi Coast adventures!
They say you can get a free blogging account and then you can post the links here on the forum so people can read them! It might be a great way to give a running account of your Amalfi Coast adventures!
Nov 28th, 2004, 06:53 PM
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Awww, I had to come back home today so no blogging! I do want to mention that one of the days we drove over to Napoli to visit Via San Gregorio Armeno where they have all the shops of the handmade creche figurenes and scenes. It is by the Benedictine Convent and includes some of the side streets nearby. This time of year it is so festive and lively, if you are in the area it will really get you in the holiday mood. But you don't have to just stick to religious motifs either, there are figures of Pulcinella and animals and almost any scene of daily life you can think of.
They are dark narrow pedestrian streets that have been lit up with hanging Christmas lights and you are serenaded by strolling musicians. You can taste and smell the roasting chestnuts on an open fire and Jacko Frostini nipping at your nose too!
The figurines are hand carved from wood or terracotta with very fine details on the better ones. The creche scenes are the best though, some are animated electrically with baby Jesus flailing his arms and legs and the cows moving their heads. There are animated daily scenes too such as breadmakers with little ovens and pizza makers putting their pizzas in their ovens. Some are about three feet high or more with waterfalls and there are some tiny ones with families dining at a table.
I was on an angel finding mission and went into so many shops and stands to find just the right one with a pretty face, we interweaved around the streets so much I got all mixed up and couldn't retrace to find my favorite for a while (while dragging a man along who was getting a more and more glazed expression!).
Well, I found her, she is about a foot tall, playing a lute and she is wearing beautiful flowing scarves! Hey, who says angels can't be fashionable! And she made it home in my suitcase in one piece.
They are dark narrow pedestrian streets that have been lit up with hanging Christmas lights and you are serenaded by strolling musicians. You can taste and smell the roasting chestnuts on an open fire and Jacko Frostini nipping at your nose too!
The figurines are hand carved from wood or terracotta with very fine details on the better ones. The creche scenes are the best though, some are animated electrically with baby Jesus flailing his arms and legs and the cows moving their heads. There are animated daily scenes too such as breadmakers with little ovens and pizza makers putting their pizzas in their ovens. Some are about three feet high or more with waterfalls and there are some tiny ones with families dining at a table.
I was on an angel finding mission and went into so many shops and stands to find just the right one with a pretty face, we interweaved around the streets so much I got all mixed up and couldn't retrace to find my favorite for a while (while dragging a man along who was getting a more and more glazed expression!).
Well, I found her, she is about a foot tall, playing a lute and she is wearing beautiful flowing scarves! Hey, who says angels can't be fashionable! And she made it home in my suitcase in one piece.
Nov 28th, 2004, 10:55 PM
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Lucky you SeaUrchin! I will be back there next month (Dec 25!) can't wait. I love Italy during the winter months. The off-and-on showers give the weather a melancholy air, but combined with Christmas festivities, makes it quite fun! I would take the cold over the hot any day (plus easier to walk in cooler weather!) Glad you had a trip.
Nov 29th, 2004, 07:55 AM
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Hello again, I am on Italy time so I have some spare time this morning before I have to go back to the office, back to the old grind the day after returning!
I know some of you go to the Coast off the tourist season and some of you are curious about the atmosphere at that time.
It is alot quieter and alot of hotels and restaurants in Positano, such as the ones on the beach except the lower floor of Buca de B., and various ones in that area are closed. It seems that on November 26 the employers treat their employees to an end of the season celebration dinner at the local restaurants. We were in the middle of one by accident in Montepertuso and it was a really festive party.
It is quieter in Sorrento too, some of the shops are closed or renovating and so are some of the hotels and restaurants but there is alot/most open and since it is more of a city the locals are out in force. They still do their nightly passegiata and are in shopping moods for the holidays.
There are some of the people from the outlying areas who come into towns this time of year to perform musically in Sorrento. We saw one man who went from store to store playing a bagpipe like instrument for the shoppers for tips. It was an eerily beautiful sound and he was playing local holiday songs. As I was on a little shopping spree myself it almost seemed like we were on the same schedule in and out of stores.
I rested with a sip of beer at a pub and the door flung open and in he came, stood with both feet planted on the floor and started piping on his "bagpipe" which is made of a goat skin with pipes (the skin still looks a little like a goat). Well, the docile sweet dog who holds reign at the bar jumped up in terror and ran to attack the musical instrument. He had a look on his face that told all, he was affronted at the state his fellow animal had been turned into! He was unconsolable (sp?) and howled and nipped at the poor goat bag. The man was good natured and stopped to hold his hand to the dog who sniffed it and then backed off and glared at the bagpipe in disgust, the owners had to physically hold him back. All the patrons thought this was the funniest thing and gave alot of tips to the musician, so he will probably be back again! They said this was his first visit this year.
So, I think that if you enjoy winter weather with crisp sunny days and cool nights or even rain and mist, less touristic crowds and want to see the locals being locals go in the Winter.
I know some of you go to the Coast off the tourist season and some of you are curious about the atmosphere at that time.
It is alot quieter and alot of hotels and restaurants in Positano, such as the ones on the beach except the lower floor of Buca de B., and various ones in that area are closed. It seems that on November 26 the employers treat their employees to an end of the season celebration dinner at the local restaurants. We were in the middle of one by accident in Montepertuso and it was a really festive party.
It is quieter in Sorrento too, some of the shops are closed or renovating and so are some of the hotels and restaurants but there is alot/most open and since it is more of a city the locals are out in force. They still do their nightly passegiata and are in shopping moods for the holidays.
There are some of the people from the outlying areas who come into towns this time of year to perform musically in Sorrento. We saw one man who went from store to store playing a bagpipe like instrument for the shoppers for tips. It was an eerily beautiful sound and he was playing local holiday songs. As I was on a little shopping spree myself it almost seemed like we were on the same schedule in and out of stores.
I rested with a sip of beer at a pub and the door flung open and in he came, stood with both feet planted on the floor and started piping on his "bagpipe" which is made of a goat skin with pipes (the skin still looks a little like a goat). Well, the docile sweet dog who holds reign at the bar jumped up in terror and ran to attack the musical instrument. He had a look on his face that told all, he was affronted at the state his fellow animal had been turned into! He was unconsolable (sp?) and howled and nipped at the poor goat bag. The man was good natured and stopped to hold his hand to the dog who sniffed it and then backed off and glared at the bagpipe in disgust, the owners had to physically hold him back. All the patrons thought this was the funniest thing and gave alot of tips to the musician, so he will probably be back again! They said this was his first visit this year.
So, I think that if you enjoy winter weather with crisp sunny days and cool nights or even rain and mist, less touristic crowds and want to see the locals being locals go in the Winter.
Nov 30th, 2004, 06:53 AM
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Seaurchin, thank you for posting from the Amalfi Coast. It is on my agenda for my Spring trip and it is a relief to know that places are open year around.
Did you find Naples intimidating? I would like to stay there near the airport when I arrive and leave.
Did you find Naples intimidating? I would like to stay there near the airport when I arrive and leave.
