Rome, Birthday trip
Mar 25th, 2013, 10:58 AM
#1
Original Poster
Rome, Birthday trip
I'm still in Rome, but "resting " today. I ignored my own profile guidance that I always pack hiking boots, took a comfortable pair of smart trainers, and have regretted it since day 3.
Even my blisters have blisters - I have been hobbling so badly tat I am sure that if I'd carried a plastic cup with me, I could have raised a lot of small change.
As I have "wasted" today, I thought I'd start to write up the trip report.
This year marks one of those “significant” birthdays; depressing, but I thought if I am going to feel old it may as well be in ancient surroundings. Being that is exactly 10 years since I was last there, I planned a trip to Rome.
I am in awe of some Fodorites who can plan a week’s tour to Rome and have it mapped out with military precision with months to spare before they go. I am far too lazy and disorganised to do this, so as long as I get flights and accommodation sorted out, the rest of the trip will sort of make itself up as it goes along.
I found an apartment 15 minutes walk away from St Peter’s Square that was within my price bracket and had numerous excellent reviews on the Homelidays website. Having confirmed the reservation, I looked for flights, and the much maligned Ryanair again proved much cheaper than the competition even if I did have to travel from Stanstead.
Day 1.
Despite the 4am start it all went rather well except for Ryanair's planning. Trying to fly 5 flights from a 8 gate hub within 25 minutes of each other just lead to complete bottlenecks in narrow corridors which lead, in turn, to some confrontations. Strangely we managed to get over wing exit seats with vast amounts of legroom – many people had boarded before us, but obviously assumed the seats were reserved.
We caught the Terravision bus from Ciampino into Rome termini. Having bought the “Special online” offer from their website we found that they were no more expensive either on the flight or at the airport.
The Weather was cold but bright and sunny. We had been given detailed instructions on how to get to the apartment, and it was recommended that we buy integrated transport tickets as soon as we arrived. Easier said than done – The station was absolutely full of Irish rugby fans, all trying to get metro and bus tickets. There were “helpful” Roma people at each of the ticket machines. Hearing my accent, the Irishman in front of me turned, grinned, and said “I’d watch that one if I were you, she’ll have your fec***n' wallet”. Two stereotypes for the price of one – the gypsy thief and the sweary Irishman
We found our way to the apartment, Everything was as advertised and "booking in" went smoothly. As we were very early, we dropped off our bags and set out exploring the local area , stopping to grab some takeaway pizza slices. The location is fine – nearly all apartment blocks, but plenty of coffee bars and the odd restaurant. A fresh food market is about 5 minutes walk – we have always felt safe. We returned a couple of hours later, and after an afternoon snooze, walked down to Vatican taking plenty of pictures as evening falls. Onwards down to the river and Castel San’t Angelo – very picturesque, but the travel was taking its toll so we headed back homewards.
Supper at local Ristorante dal Sardo. Marinated seafood starter, sautéed clams mussels (Too salty and overcooked), potato and mint ravioli (Too stodgy and to my palate, lacked taste), tiramisu, litre house red disappointing €56. A pity really because I liked the atmosphere and service – would give it another chance later. It had been a long day, so back to the apartment and a relatively early night,
Even my blisters have blisters - I have been hobbling so badly tat I am sure that if I'd carried a plastic cup with me, I could have raised a lot of small change.
As I have "wasted" today, I thought I'd start to write up the trip report.
This year marks one of those “significant” birthdays; depressing, but I thought if I am going to feel old it may as well be in ancient surroundings. Being that is exactly 10 years since I was last there, I planned a trip to Rome.
I am in awe of some Fodorites who can plan a week’s tour to Rome and have it mapped out with military precision with months to spare before they go. I am far too lazy and disorganised to do this, so as long as I get flights and accommodation sorted out, the rest of the trip will sort of make itself up as it goes along.
I found an apartment 15 minutes walk away from St Peter’s Square that was within my price bracket and had numerous excellent reviews on the Homelidays website. Having confirmed the reservation, I looked for flights, and the much maligned Ryanair again proved much cheaper than the competition even if I did have to travel from Stanstead.
Day 1.
Despite the 4am start it all went rather well except for Ryanair's planning. Trying to fly 5 flights from a 8 gate hub within 25 minutes of each other just lead to complete bottlenecks in narrow corridors which lead, in turn, to some confrontations. Strangely we managed to get over wing exit seats with vast amounts of legroom – many people had boarded before us, but obviously assumed the seats were reserved.
We caught the Terravision bus from Ciampino into Rome termini. Having bought the “Special online” offer from their website we found that they were no more expensive either on the flight or at the airport.
The Weather was cold but bright and sunny. We had been given detailed instructions on how to get to the apartment, and it was recommended that we buy integrated transport tickets as soon as we arrived. Easier said than done – The station was absolutely full of Irish rugby fans, all trying to get metro and bus tickets. There were “helpful” Roma people at each of the ticket machines. Hearing my accent, the Irishman in front of me turned, grinned, and said “I’d watch that one if I were you, she’ll have your fec***n' wallet”. Two stereotypes for the price of one – the gypsy thief and the sweary Irishman
We found our way to the apartment, Everything was as advertised and "booking in" went smoothly. As we were very early, we dropped off our bags and set out exploring the local area , stopping to grab some takeaway pizza slices. The location is fine – nearly all apartment blocks, but plenty of coffee bars and the odd restaurant. A fresh food market is about 5 minutes walk – we have always felt safe. We returned a couple of hours later, and after an afternoon snooze, walked down to Vatican taking plenty of pictures as evening falls. Onwards down to the river and Castel San’t Angelo – very picturesque, but the travel was taking its toll so we headed back homewards.
Supper at local Ristorante dal Sardo. Marinated seafood starter, sautéed clams mussels (Too salty and overcooked), potato and mint ravioli (Too stodgy and to my palate, lacked taste), tiramisu, litre house red disappointing €56. A pity really because I liked the atmosphere and service – would give it another chance later. It had been a long day, so back to the apartment and a relatively early night,
Mar 25th, 2013, 12:01 PM
#2
Original Poster
Day 2 overcast and chilly.
We walked towards the Vatican. Pope Francesco was due to make his first public blessing and St Peter’s was extremely crowded with hordes arriving from all directions . Not able to get near the square from our closest entrance near the San Pietro station, we join the throngs walking through the road tunnels towards the Tiber, then walked up the Via della Conciliazione getting about halfway along before hitting the overflow from the Piazza.
We were far too far from square to get view other than on big screens, but it was fun to be part of the historical event. There was definitely an almost party atmosphere with flags of all nations and regions being waved enthusiastically while waiting for the pope to appear.
We crossed the river ahead of the masses of the faithful, so were inadvertently in a great position to see a wonderful chaotic scene some 15 minutes later when the outflow from the Vatican found that half the roads on the far side of the Tiber were blocked by some of the 15,000+ runners competing in the Rome marathon.
The elite athletes were long finished, but the normal runners now were 10 abreast along the roadways. Some churchgoers would have diverted away, looking for an alternative route, but this is Italy.
We saw numerous people trying to make a break for it across the road into the smallest gaps – this included clergy and nuns. Imagine running for 20 miles, and ending your marathon by colliding with a nun while still 6 miles from the end.
We spent afternoon walking aimlessly (always a pleasure in Rome) Piazza Novana (more runners) , Trevi Fountain (ditto), Trajan’s column, the Qurinel and then finally down towards the Roman Forum and Colosseum. This proved to be end of Marathon so runners everywhere , roads restricted and chaos on narrow stairways as tired, irritable runners on the way down met fraught tourists fighting their way up after finding the normal roads inaccessible.
We struggled to find any of the local restaurants open, and walked a very roundabout way until we found Al Vecchio Galeone. OK starter of mixed antipasta, superb seafood pasta and very good sausage and Gorgonzola pizza. We consumed far too much wine which pushed the bill up to €50
We walked towards the Vatican. Pope Francesco was due to make his first public blessing and St Peter’s was extremely crowded with hordes arriving from all directions . Not able to get near the square from our closest entrance near the San Pietro station, we join the throngs walking through the road tunnels towards the Tiber, then walked up the Via della Conciliazione getting about halfway along before hitting the overflow from the Piazza.
We were far too far from square to get view other than on big screens, but it was fun to be part of the historical event. There was definitely an almost party atmosphere with flags of all nations and regions being waved enthusiastically while waiting for the pope to appear.
We crossed the river ahead of the masses of the faithful, so were inadvertently in a great position to see a wonderful chaotic scene some 15 minutes later when the outflow from the Vatican found that half the roads on the far side of the Tiber were blocked by some of the 15,000+ runners competing in the Rome marathon.
The elite athletes were long finished, but the normal runners now were 10 abreast along the roadways. Some churchgoers would have diverted away, looking for an alternative route, but this is Italy.
We saw numerous people trying to make a break for it across the road into the smallest gaps – this included clergy and nuns. Imagine running for 20 miles, and ending your marathon by colliding with a nun while still 6 miles from the end.
We spent afternoon walking aimlessly (always a pleasure in Rome) Piazza Novana (more runners) , Trevi Fountain (ditto), Trajan’s column, the Qurinel and then finally down towards the Roman Forum and Colosseum. This proved to be end of Marathon so runners everywhere , roads restricted and chaos on narrow stairways as tired, irritable runners on the way down met fraught tourists fighting their way up after finding the normal roads inaccessible.
We struggled to find any of the local restaurants open, and walked a very roundabout way until we found Al Vecchio Galeone. OK starter of mixed antipasta, superb seafood pasta and very good sausage and Gorgonzola pizza. We consumed far too much wine which pushed the bill up to €50
Mar 25th, 2013, 10:59 PM
#7
Original Poster
Thanks for the comments. The feet are my own fault. Traveling Ryanair with carry on luggage only meant no room for shoes. I should have done my normal thing and worn the heavy duty footware. Standard soles, blisters and cobbled streets are a very poor combination - and it's not like I am going to visit Michelin starred restaurants on this trip.
http://preview.tinyurl.com/cggs4hq is the apartment page on the homelidays website. Highly recommended: It has everything you need , the owner is super helpful.
I'm off to see if I can find a large pair of 2nd hand boots at a flea market - then on to the Vatican museum. I have about 1500 photos so far, but will post them at the weekend when I get back home - There is wi fi in the flat via a dongle but I would not want to abuse the data limits by uploading from here.
http://preview.tinyurl.com/cggs4hq is the apartment page on the homelidays website. Highly recommended: It has everything you need , the owner is super helpful.
I'm off to see if I can find a large pair of 2nd hand boots at a flea market - then on to the Vatican museum. I have about 1500 photos so far, but will post them at the weekend when I get back home - There is wi fi in the flat via a dongle but I would not want to abuse the data limits by uploading from here.
Mar 25th, 2013, 11:58 PM
#8
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Yikes - so sorry to hear about the feet and the blisters. I prefer to have at least 3 pairs of footwear with me (including hiking boots) to avoid just this sort of thing, as I have had it happen to me too.
But nonetheless - enjoy Rome. Take transit.
But nonetheless - enjoy Rome. Take transit.
Mar 26th, 2013, 06:35 AM
#9
Even my blisters have blisters - I have been hobbling so badly tat I am sure that if I'd carried a plastic cup with me, I could have raised a lot of small change.
As I have "wasted" today, I thought I'd start to write up the trip report.>>
oh dear, willit, I remember it well - roman foot.
do you want to post an address for your apartment - we were staying near the Vatican [very close to the san Pietro Station] about a month ago so i might have some restaurant ideas. [or click on my screen name for my TR, which I still haven't quite finished]]
a place that i've now eaten at several times which seams to be reliable [recommended by our apartment landlady 3 years ago and still good last month] is the Antica Taverna in via Monte Giordiano - it's quite difficult to find but because of that may be less crowded than other places. There are also lots of other choices in that area - Il Fico nearby is also good.
http://www.anticatavernamangiabene.it/
those crowds sound amazing!
carry on enjoying your trip!
As I have "wasted" today, I thought I'd start to write up the trip report.>>
oh dear, willit, I remember it well - roman foot.
do you want to post an address for your apartment - we were staying near the Vatican [very close to the san Pietro Station] about a month ago so i might have some restaurant ideas. [or click on my screen name for my TR, which I still haven't quite finished]]
a place that i've now eaten at several times which seams to be reliable [recommended by our apartment landlady 3 years ago and still good last month] is the Antica Taverna in via Monte Giordiano - it's quite difficult to find but because of that may be less crowded than other places. There are also lots of other choices in that area - Il Fico nearby is also good.
http://www.anticatavernamangiabene.it/
those crowds sound amazing!
carry on enjoying your trip!
Mar 27th, 2013, 10:47 AM
#10
Original Poster
Day 3 – wet wet wet
Set off for Capitoline museum but it was shut, as are most museums on a Monday in Rome. This should not have come as a surprise as I have read it enough times in various guidebooks and on this forum. The rain is heavy and within half an hour we are soaking wet – this despite having expensive, and usually very efficient waterproof coats.
There were umbrella salesmen everywhere – where do they stash their supplies where they are accessible within seconds of the first drops? The quality of the umbrellas is obvious from looking at nearly any roadside bin – piles of mangled and bent umbrellas litter the surrounding areas.
Exploring the Vittoro Emmanule monument we ended up museum of the Risorgamento – far more interesting than I would have imagined from descriptions in various guidebooks and does a good job of trying to explain the long and complicated unification of modern Italy. I felt quite sorry for the two military sentries guarding the tomb of the unknown soldier. Even in their camouflaged waterproofs they looked cold and miserable.
Lunch was slices of pizza at a place next to Torre Argentina. While there we visited the cat sanctuary. As it continued to be extremely wet, went home early to hang up our sopping clothes. We decided against going back out in the rain later, so made a quick trip to the supermarket for bread, cheese and salami for supper.
Set off for Capitoline museum but it was shut, as are most museums on a Monday in Rome. This should not have come as a surprise as I have read it enough times in various guidebooks and on this forum. The rain is heavy and within half an hour we are soaking wet – this despite having expensive, and usually very efficient waterproof coats.
There were umbrella salesmen everywhere – where do they stash their supplies where they are accessible within seconds of the first drops? The quality of the umbrellas is obvious from looking at nearly any roadside bin – piles of mangled and bent umbrellas litter the surrounding areas.
Exploring the Vittoro Emmanule monument we ended up museum of the Risorgamento – far more interesting than I would have imagined from descriptions in various guidebooks and does a good job of trying to explain the long and complicated unification of modern Italy. I felt quite sorry for the two military sentries guarding the tomb of the unknown soldier. Even in their camouflaged waterproofs they looked cold and miserable.
Lunch was slices of pizza at a place next to Torre Argentina. While there we visited the cat sanctuary. As it continued to be extremely wet, went home early to hang up our sopping clothes. We decided against going back out in the rain later, so made a quick trip to the supermarket for bread, cheese and salami for supper.
Mar 27th, 2013, 10:54 AM
#11
Original Poster
Day 4 - sunny
Papal inauguration day and there were major events at the Vatican. A no parking rule had been enforced along Gregorio VII and the surrounding roads and no buses were running. The normal cars had been replaced by the police, and I would estimate there must have been up to 1000 police vehicles from all branches virtually blocking the road for half a mile.
There were also thousands of police including Carabinieri, National police, municipal police , Garda Finanzia and bizarrely the forestry police (in green land rovers) alongside every road and junction. The cafés and bars were doing a roaring trade although you can barely see the counters for the massed ranks of coffee drinking police.
We walked down as far as Tiber, then alongside the river crossing over at Trastevere to Torre Argentina (more cat photos) then into the ghetto to see the fountain of the turtles before crossing back to Trastevere.
Aimless wandering brought us to local bar , then on to Hosteria Capo de Fero – superb meal mixed salami, Rigatoni Democratici ( very creamy cheesy sauc), bucattini amatriciana (Bacon, pecorino and chilli), bottle of house red and water. €39.
After lunch we visited the church of Santa Maria di Trastevere and admired the very good mosaics, reminiscent of churches in Sicily. We then took the long walk up hill to Giancolo to look out over view. Because of misunderstanding we then headed back to the main piazza in Trastavere to watch puppets, before reading that shows actually back where we started up on on Giancolo.
After a short trip to Isola Tiber and spending a few minutes in the church admiring the modern stained glass . Finally we took bus this back up the hill(with unexpected stopover in bus station.) All this was in vain as we found out that the puppetry only at weekends.
At a guess we had walked around 10-12 miles and were very tired, so we took a combination of buses home (The joy of the integrated ticket means not worrying how many changes or trips you are making)
Papal inauguration day and there were major events at the Vatican. A no parking rule had been enforced along Gregorio VII and the surrounding roads and no buses were running. The normal cars had been replaced by the police, and I would estimate there must have been up to 1000 police vehicles from all branches virtually blocking the road for half a mile.
There were also thousands of police including Carabinieri, National police, municipal police , Garda Finanzia and bizarrely the forestry police (in green land rovers) alongside every road and junction. The cafés and bars were doing a roaring trade although you can barely see the counters for the massed ranks of coffee drinking police.
We walked down as far as Tiber, then alongside the river crossing over at Trastevere to Torre Argentina (more cat photos) then into the ghetto to see the fountain of the turtles before crossing back to Trastevere.
Aimless wandering brought us to local bar , then on to Hosteria Capo de Fero – superb meal mixed salami, Rigatoni Democratici ( very creamy cheesy sauc), bucattini amatriciana (Bacon, pecorino and chilli), bottle of house red and water. €39.
After lunch we visited the church of Santa Maria di Trastevere and admired the very good mosaics, reminiscent of churches in Sicily. We then took the long walk up hill to Giancolo to look out over view. Because of misunderstanding we then headed back to the main piazza in Trastavere to watch puppets, before reading that shows actually back where we started up on on Giancolo.
After a short trip to Isola Tiber and spending a few minutes in the church admiring the modern stained glass . Finally we took bus this back up the hill(with unexpected stopover in bus station.) All this was in vain as we found out that the puppetry only at weekends.
At a guess we had walked around 10-12 miles and were very tired, so we took a combination of buses home (The joy of the integrated ticket means not worrying how many changes or trips you are making)
Mar 27th, 2013, 11:03 AM
#12
"We consumed far too much wine "
I believe that is an impossibility in Italy. For a cool wine experience, try Cul de Sac, Piazza Pasquino 73, on an alley near Piazza Navona. Sometimes it's hard to get a seat, but good food and great vino.
I believe that is an impossibility in Italy. For a cool wine experience, try Cul de Sac, Piazza Pasquino 73, on an alley near Piazza Navona. Sometimes it's hard to get a seat, but good food and great vino.
Mar 27th, 2013, 11:10 AM
#13
Original Poster
Anne, Thanks for the restaurant recommendation, I will look out for it. I have started to read your language school report - I smiled at the Tripe experience. I thought I had to try it once , and I am glad I did, although I am not sure I will bother again.
I had to buy some more Ibuprofen(Nurofen)today, and off course you can only get them at a pharmacy. €5 for 12 ! I am used to paying £0.35 for 16 in our local supermarket in the UK.
I had to buy some more Ibuprofen(Nurofen)today, and off course you can only get them at a pharmacy. €5 for 12 ! I am used to paying £0.35 for 16 in our local supermarket in the UK.
Mar 27th, 2013, 11:18 AM
#14
Original Poster
"We consumed far too much wine " "I believe that is an impossibility in Italy."
Phew that's a relief. We went out for a pizza last night in a very small restaurant where were were place virtually on the laps of a party of three Americans at the next table. As our litre of house red arrived, in an unguarded moment the elder of the two men said "My god, you're going to drink all that yourself?" Realising that he'd said it aloud, he apologised profusely, but we explained that we are British, so virtually alcoholics from the start, so took no offense.
Phew that's a relief. We went out for a pizza last night in a very small restaurant where were were place virtually on the laps of a party of three Americans at the next table. As our litre of house red arrived, in an unguarded moment the elder of the two men said "My god, you're going to drink all that yourself?" Realising that he'd said it aloud, he apologised profusely, but we explained that we are British, so virtually alcoholics from the start, so took no offense.
Mar 27th, 2013, 11:28 AM
#15
Original Poster
I have just been reminded of what I found very interesting on the day of the Papal inauguration. Were in the restaurant when a party containing several Englishmen arrived. They were behind me so I could hear their voices.
One was loud and obnoxious, but very well spoken with an "Oxbridge" accent. From the greetings (In Italian) to the waiting staff, it was obvious he was a regular, and he praised the food to his associates.
During the course of the meal he launched a diatribe against the new Pope, condemning him for being populist, trying to pacify the poor and likely to turn his back on tradition, and for the "lack of sophistication of his Latin". There was much in the same vein and the speakers views were extremely right wing.
As we left, I got my first look at the table and was shocked (although the clues were there had I listened). They were priests who had just come down from the ceremony at the Vatican. Such dissent at the new leader of the church!
One was loud and obnoxious, but very well spoken with an "Oxbridge" accent. From the greetings (In Italian) to the waiting staff, it was obvious he was a regular, and he praised the food to his associates.
During the course of the meal he launched a diatribe against the new Pope, condemning him for being populist, trying to pacify the poor and likely to turn his back on tradition, and for the "lack of sophistication of his Latin". There was much in the same vein and the speakers views were extremely right wing.
As we left, I got my first look at the table and was shocked (although the clues were there had I listened). They were priests who had just come down from the ceremony at the Vatican. Such dissent at the new leader of the church!
Mar 27th, 2013, 12:07 PM
#16
Original Poster
Day 5 – overcast becoming deluge later.
Time for a daytrip and I thought we would try Ostia Antica, This meant getting a train from near the Piramide metro station. Unfortunately Jen’s integrated ticket got soaked on Monday, and cannot go through the barriers, so we resort to buses across Rome rather than the simpler metro.
From a point of view of ignorance, I have always been slightly cynical about Ostia Antica when it is offered as an alternative to Pompeii or Herculaneum, but again I am wrong and the Fodor’s consensus is right. It is a great trip, a fascinating place and you do get a real impression of Roman life. I also really liked the small medieval “Borgo” around the castle – well worth a 20 minute deviation from the main site.
Our trip was cut short after a couple of hours by another torrential rain storm – slippery Roman cobbles are no fun in a downpour, and the rain showed no let up during a trip to the onsite museum, so we headed back having visited only about half the ruins. On the way by train we had passed the so called Square Colosseum at EUR. We tried to visit, but the site is surrounded by fences and gates, and it seems to have been that way for some time. Walking around the area we were tempted to try and find some of the museums in the area, but the intensity of the rain meant that we were becoming soaked and cold.
We took a bus back to the centre of the city that took a slow roundabout way round. I was shocked to see shanty towns on the side of the Tiber, and a scrap metal depot way full of people with bits and pieces brought along in shopping trolleys.
I wondered if this is where all the Rome bike share bicycles ended up. So far on our stay I have seen numerous bike stands advertising the scheme, but only one bike (Damaged). Apparently the scheme was poorly thought out and there was either no security deposit required, or it was easy to bypass the system.
That night we went back to the Al Vecchio Galeone – spaghetti with clams, pizza with sausage, A litre of house red wine and water for €31 – again very pleasant food.
Time for a daytrip and I thought we would try Ostia Antica, This meant getting a train from near the Piramide metro station. Unfortunately Jen’s integrated ticket got soaked on Monday, and cannot go through the barriers, so we resort to buses across Rome rather than the simpler metro.
From a point of view of ignorance, I have always been slightly cynical about Ostia Antica when it is offered as an alternative to Pompeii or Herculaneum, but again I am wrong and the Fodor’s consensus is right. It is a great trip, a fascinating place and you do get a real impression of Roman life. I also really liked the small medieval “Borgo” around the castle – well worth a 20 minute deviation from the main site.
Our trip was cut short after a couple of hours by another torrential rain storm – slippery Roman cobbles are no fun in a downpour, and the rain showed no let up during a trip to the onsite museum, so we headed back having visited only about half the ruins. On the way by train we had passed the so called Square Colosseum at EUR. We tried to visit, but the site is surrounded by fences and gates, and it seems to have been that way for some time. Walking around the area we were tempted to try and find some of the museums in the area, but the intensity of the rain meant that we were becoming soaked and cold.
We took a bus back to the centre of the city that took a slow roundabout way round. I was shocked to see shanty towns on the side of the Tiber, and a scrap metal depot way full of people with bits and pieces brought along in shopping trolleys.
I wondered if this is where all the Rome bike share bicycles ended up. So far on our stay I have seen numerous bike stands advertising the scheme, but only one bike (Damaged). Apparently the scheme was poorly thought out and there was either no security deposit required, or it was easy to bypass the system.
That night we went back to the Al Vecchio Galeone – spaghetti with clams, pizza with sausage, A litre of house red wine and water for €31 – again very pleasant food.
Mar 27th, 2013, 02:14 PM
#17
we ended up museum of the Risorgamento – far more interesting than I would have imagined from descriptions in various guidebooks and does a good job of trying to explain the long and complicated unification of modern Italy.>>
we went there on our last-but-one trip to rome - probably for the same reason as you! we thought that is was interesting but rather dusty. have they cleaned it up yet?
maitai - i finally found cul-de-sac on my 3rd trip to Rome. Hooray! we were walking last laden with shopping at about 4pm on our last afternoon and somehow my feet just led me in there against my will. it being so late [for lunch] or so early [for dinner] there were very few people in there, so we were able to get a table straight away. what a wonderful wine list. No chance of my being able to try even 1/100th of the wines they've got, even if I lived there, but we had a couple of very nice glasses of wine and a good sit so our feet could recover.
willit - glad you liked Ostia. we were lucky in that it was a lovely afternoon, and that we had a guide [the director of the language school who adjusted his italian so that we could understand him] but the kids in our group did tend to dawdle, so we didn't see as much as we'd have liked. we also liked the Borgo, but didn't see into the church, which is said to be very beautiful, as they had a christening.
we went there on our last-but-one trip to rome - probably for the same reason as you! we thought that is was interesting but rather dusty. have they cleaned it up yet?
maitai - i finally found cul-de-sac on my 3rd trip to Rome. Hooray! we were walking last laden with shopping at about 4pm on our last afternoon and somehow my feet just led me in there against my will. it being so late [for lunch] or so early [for dinner] there were very few people in there, so we were able to get a table straight away. what a wonderful wine list. No chance of my being able to try even 1/100th of the wines they've got, even if I lived there, but we had a couple of very nice glasses of wine and a good sit so our feet could recover.
willit - glad you liked Ostia. we were lucky in that it was a lovely afternoon, and that we had a guide [the director of the language school who adjusted his italian so that we could understand him] but the kids in our group did tend to dawdle, so we didn't see as much as we'd have liked. we also liked the Borgo, but didn't see into the church, which is said to be very beautiful, as they had a christening.
