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Roman (and Florentine, Venetian) Holiday with la Principessa

Roman (and Florentine, Venetian) Holiday with la Principessa

Old Mar 18th, 2017, 04:33 PM
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Roman (and Florentine, Venetian) Holiday with la Principessa

She's not really a principessa. She's my daughter, therefore comes from what I consider sturdy peasant stock. Calvin Trillin once wrote that he referred that way to his wife when traveling to get extra respect, as in "La Principessa would like a canal view table." I never actually remembered to call her that, just as I forgot to use my hands when talking. But we had a lot of fun anyway, and our last night there she bought me a little refrigerator magnet with that photo of Gregory Peck looking so cool on a scooter with Audrey Hepburn behind.

She's been living in London for a year and a half, thrilled to land a job with a river view, and I hadn't seen her for a year. Her visa status added tension: was coming, then not, then unexpectedly arrived. So we got to leave the UK, and after my time in London we spent ten nights in Italy.

I flew UA for the first time, STL - IAD - LHR, and was delighted both ways overseas to have an entire 3 seats to stretch out. The food was good, planes were new. Would definitely go that way again.

GLOBAL ENTRY, ha, AND THE AIRPORT I NOW DISLIKE A LOT: IAD
Now my rant. In early spring 2016, when they were predicting hours-long TSA lines all summer, I had just endured lengthy Border Control at ORD and had three domestic trips planned between May and late September. Easy decision: I applied for and paid the $100 for Global Entry, thinking how nice it would be to flounce past the shuffling proletariat with that fancy card. When I got the date for my interview, the soonest possible was two days after returning from my last summer trip. Oh, well.

This trip, TSA security in STL was lovely. Border control at the UK had a shorter line than usual at noon on a Wednesday, and the agent and I had a friendly little chat. Border Control at Marco Polo was downright charming, and when I got patted down leaving Rome it almost felt like a backrub. LHR security rightly judged me to be entirely benign.

Then I got back to the good old USA and Dulles. When you deplane they send you down one of two Arrivals chutes, depending on whether you're making a connection. Finally, I thought, my Global Entry will pay off. I entered Border Control, a huge room where I was the only passenger. There I was "randomly selected" for a customs check, my passport trapped in an orange box. Three officials so far had dealt with the threat posed by me, and I was waved to a third. He opened my suitcase and looked at every item inside. " What's this?" "Those would be fancy Italian candy bars for my husband. He likes chocolate." "What's this?" "That is a Mason Pearson hairbrush, also a gift for my husband." (He peered at and practically sniffed the box, but did not open it.) "And this?" (Here he attempted to wrench open the John Lewis box containing a truffle-filled Easter Egg, sealed as purchased. I offered to break it open. He declined, apparently disappointed.) This went on for several post-Atlantic flight minutes. He asked probing questions. Finally I was allowed to stagger away.

Now, to my surprise, I encounter a TSA security station where nine agents lounged, waiting for the potential troublemakers. Since they surreally only had me, they had to make the best of it. Shoes off. I stood in the XRay thing with arms overhead, and emerged to get a very thorough and surly frisking indeed. When she told me she had to swab our hands (for explosives), I said, "Of course you do."

Can I be excused for lapsing into sarcasm? The poor thing was only doing her job. Should I have been glad that all nine of those idle agents didn't practice their malefactor-detecting skills on me?
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Old Mar 18th, 2017, 04:43 PM
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As I walked down an empty hallway to my gate, I yelled, "I hate Dulles Airport!" It will be on a security camera somewhere.
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Old Mar 19th, 2017, 03:03 AM
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I thank my lucky stars I'll never have to see Dulles Airport again.
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Old Mar 19th, 2017, 05:44 AM
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Hi Stokebaily! I'm very much looking forward to your report.
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Old Mar 19th, 2017, 07:36 AM
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I feel your pain, Stoke. it is the utter pointlessness of it that grates, isn't it? They simply do it [IMO] because they can.

anyway, I hope that it hasn't spoilt your memories of what sounds like a stellar trip and I'm looking forward very much to reading your TR.
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Old Mar 19th, 2017, 10:14 AM
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Yes, StCirq. What is it with the place?

Thank you, marigross.

Ann, thank you. I just wanted to get my whining out of the way early.

I like staying in hotels when traveling by myself. We did rent an apartment for our five days in Rome, to give Hannah some elbow room. We liked every one of these reasonably priced places:

First, my dear old CELTIC HOTEL (formerly St. Margaret's) in Bloomsbury. Since Hannah lives in W14 she wanted me within walking distance, but I stayed my first two nights at the Celtic for the ideal tourist location and for the warm hospitality of dear Mrs. Marazzi and her loyal staff. Also the breakfasts. I had a single room with shower on the first floor, liked it just fine. Half a flight up to toilets, never a problem.

http://www.stmargaretshotel.co.uk/W_e_l_c_o_m_e.html

Next, to be closer to Hannah for five nights, the GARDEN VIEW HOTEL. Halfway between the Earl's Court and West Kensington tube stops. I had a single room ensuite on the first floor, overlooking quiet and lovely Nevern Square, one of those blocks of Edwardian white porticos. Easy walk to some good bus lines. Probably a little far out for the first time tourist, but very reasonably priced, comfortable, clean. It was fun to stay in a different, more residential part of town.

http://www.gardenviewhotel.co.uk/

We had one night at the PREMIER INN North Gatwick to avoid a frantic morning rush to the airport. What can I say? They run a taut ship.

In Venice, found on Tripadvisor and booked almost last minute when we found we could visit after all, LOCANDA AI BARETERI. A lovely place with a family-run feeling. Luca carried our bags up, and his young daughter carried one of them down, over my protests, when we left. Our room was on the fifth floor, so more than a few stairs, but it was perfect for us. I'd been concerned about the central location between the Rialto Bridge and San Marco, since it was Carnevale, but crowds became intense only on the Saturday morning we left. Very quiet at night, on small side street. Lavish continental breakfast, cappuccino made to order.

http://locanda-ai-bareteri.all-venicehotels.com/
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Old Mar 19th, 2017, 10:22 AM
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IAD is the closest international airport and I hear you about their border staff. There are a few good ones but most bark out order like a rejected prison guard.
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Old Mar 19th, 2017, 11:03 AM
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In Florence, partly because so reasonably priced and centrally located, and partly because Hannah and her sister loved it when they were teenagers traveling on their own, HOTEL BAVARIA. The lobby and breakfast room are three long flights up. One afternoon walking down we passed a couple of young men coming up with backpacks, and half a flight down a father paused with huge suitcase and dismayed expression. Formerly a palazzo I think, frescoed façade with coats of arms, and ceilings are very high. When we asked to switch rooms after one noisy night, we got a lovely courtyard room with shower, bathroom down the hall. 40 euros/night, including a good continental breakfast.

http://hotel-bavaria.florencehotelitaly.net/

In Rome, we had an apartment three minute walk from Vatican Museum entrance and in a residential area, DOMUS VALERI. Three blocks from Ottaviano metro stop and two blocks from the excellent Mercato Trionfale indoor market. Good bus lines nearby. Comfortable, spacious, classic furnishings with nice antiques, fourth floor with elevator.

http://www.domusvaleri.com/eng/

Last night, just for me, one night at THE CAPTAIN COOK, Fulham. 20 minute walk to Hannah's. Cozy comfort, and a fun pub downstairs that has Sunday Quiz Night.

http://thecaptaincook.com/
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Old Mar 19th, 2017, 11:06 AM
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Ha, emily71. Thank you for validation. I wondered whether it was new TSA "shackles off" or proximity to DC, or what. One surreal part was all that manpower and entire lack of fellow passengers. Just a fluke, I guess, and I think they face a big budget cut.
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Old Mar 19th, 2017, 11:48 AM
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all your accommodations looked very good, Stoke - and I particularly enjoyed the claim on the website of the locanda ai bareteri that they are 10 minutes from the airport "by car". Sounds like an interesting journey.
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Old Mar 19th, 2017, 03:36 PM
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Funny, Ann. I missed that. They might as well offer free parking while they're at it. I loved having no millstone of a car on our travels.

After emerging from Russell Square Tube Station and checking in at the Celtic, I took a pair of shoes down to Sicilian Avenue, where last time I had found my favorite shoe repair shop. Dark and empty storefront.

Sorry, will have to pick this up later.
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Old Mar 20th, 2017, 02:24 PM
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oh dear - what a shame that your favourite cobblers has disappeared. We are very lucky to have a branch of the shoe repairers Timson in Truro - did you know that the owner deliberately employs ex prisoners? I'm not sure about the antecedents of the chaps in our local branch but they are certainly friendly and efficient.

Keep it coming when you can.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2017, 02:35 AM
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Great so far. Looking forward to more. I had a pat down visiting Parliament in London a few years back while going through their security. She asked me "what's this in my pocket?" It was a used tissue. Seriously! I was the only one in a big group going through security randomly chosen to be pulled aside. My husband and son were next to me but I was pulled over. Sorry you experienced that with TSA.
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Old Apr 3rd, 2017, 05:24 PM
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Yes! for hiring ex-prisoners, Ann. I'd take my shoes to Timson, if I could. Getting to a shoe repair shop in my town requires a 15 minute drive, then paying a hefty sum for new heels or whatever, then a 3-5 week wait. I was delighted the next day to find Michael's Shoe Care on Proctor St. near High Holborn. He said, "By lunchtime?" and meant it, charged a very reasonable fee. London gets its moneys worth out of shoe leather.

Funny, novice. Do they pick the most innocuous-looking person to prove that they're not profiling? In the case of IAD that evening, any randomness necessarily involved me, 100% of the incoming throng. We should be grateful, of course, and bear in mind that they're doing their job, but it's difficult not to take the intimate patdown personally.

Speaking of shoes, I fret more about which pairs to take than any other thing. My intended activities included muddy Hampstead Heath paths, the opera and plays, and many miles of uneven city pavement. My suitcase had to be EasyJet size, and as light as possible. I ended up bringing lightweight Clark's oxfords, black leather Dansko clogs, and taking -- then abandoning -- my beloved Marylebone High Street Oxfam 12£ tall wellies. The sandals I only used in hotel corridors at night I should have left home.

That first midday I ended up carrying my shoes to meet Hannah and a friend for lunch near her office. I had two hours, so decided to walk from Sicilian Ave. to the Southbank as I'd done before. This time I dawdled, stopped for coffee, realized that my phone was not ever going to give me internet access with the lunch spot location. I got as far as St. Paul's, jumped on a westbound bus and then off at London Bridge. It started to rain and time got shorter. I decided that a taxi would be my best bet for finding the place, so hailed one on the northern end of the bridge. He looked the cafe up on his computer as we crossed the bridge, told me it was "just down there" past the London Bridge tube stop, didn't charge me anything, waved his hand in a vaguely eastern direction, let me off. I liked that. Fueled by caffeine and desperation, and through the kindness of strangers, I made it to Cinq just a few minutes late to reunite with my daughter.
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Old Apr 4th, 2017, 01:32 AM
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Stoke - I have never heard of a London cabbie not charging, not even for the shortest of runs. You were lucky! It sounds as if there is a real need for more shoe repairers in your area if they take 3-5 weeks - like the London firm you found, typically our local Timsons will do heels or other simple repairs in a couple of hours, or while you wait if you are desperate. and the dry cleaner's does a drop off service with a 2-3 day turnaround. perhaps americans don't get their shoes repaired any more.
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Old Apr 4th, 2017, 11:15 AM
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I'm afraid not, Ann. Buy cheap and discard is more common in this neck of the woods.

There's another London driver I'm still grateful to, on the 59 bus back to Bloomsbury after lunch. When I alighted at Southampton Row, I realized I didn't have the umbrella I'd bought last year at the beautiful umbrella and walking stick shop on the edge of Covent Garden. The bus had pulled away from the curb but was stuck in traffic, so I struck a pleading palms-pressed-together dramatic pose, and he opened the door. I dashed upstairs, and there my favorite London souvenir lay. Thank you, kind driver. "You're a good man." I called as I jumped back off.

I love London buses. The next day after good Celtic Hotel breakfast I caught the #168 to Hampstead Heath. Last year in walking shoes I couldn't get very far for the deep mud. Wearing my Oxfam wellies now I followed my nose up past the bathing ponds and ancient oaks, beeches, hollies to Kenwood House. Swans. Another duck-like fowl with short neck the thrusts its head forward with every swimming stroke. Wood ducks, mallards.
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Old Apr 5th, 2017, 07:09 AM
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Kenwood House is wonderful. How can they let us just wander in, sit on the couches? http://www.geni.com/projects/Kenwood...-England/29424

I scraped my boots thoroughly, then headed for the room with the Vermeer, Hals, and Rembrandt. It's best to read the explanatory cards in each room, I think, before looking at the paintings. This not only gives you interesting background, but also a chance to eavesdrop on what the volunteers are telling other visitors. Then you can sidle up afterwards and get them to expand on it.

The man in this first room that morning was especially good; he clearly loves the art, the building and its history. I heard some fun gossip about loose women long dead, and got a recommendation for the Emma Hamilton exhibition at Greenwich. An architect volunteer discussed the library and what it is about the design that makes it so effective. Another treasure of a volunteer in the last northern wing said she's been coming there since she was a little girl, when Lawrence's Miss Murray was her favorite, and we gossiped some more about Emma. These are not mere guards.

The combination of the walk, the art, and conversations with fine volunteers made it as satisfying a day as I could have on my own. Walking back down the Heath to the bus stop I was able to talk to a TMobile tech who helped me figure out how to get internet access.

Hannah and I rendezvoused at the Old Vic for the perfect end to that day: the play Art. Funny, touching, well-acted. The week I was in town was half-term holidays or something like that, and seems to be an in-between time for plays with some things just closing and others about to open. The Almeida was doing Hamlet with that Irish heartthrob from Sherlock, sold out months in advance then rave-reviewed so inaccessible, the NT had Peter Pan and other kid-aimed plays, and Hedda Gabler on days before and after I was there.

The funky Cuban restaurant a block away from Old Vic was jammed, but we found a table out of the rain for quick refreshment. I had walked from the Celtic to the Old Vic, hoping to buy movie-based postcards from the great selection at the British Film Institute gift shop. The last time I was in town on the way to the War Museum I was an hour too early, and this time the shop was closed for renovation. Maybe next time.
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Old Apr 5th, 2017, 07:12 AM
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PS: I love how Kenwood House puts crossed thistle heads on furniture where they don't want you to sit. Subtle but effective.
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Old Apr 5th, 2017, 09:41 AM
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A little bit more London culture: ROH Adriana Lecouvreur was a little disappointing, partly because of the Upper Slips seats. Extremely false economy, or I'd made a just plain ordering mistake months before. Lower Slips seats and standing room always work just fine. As I waited for Hannah in the lobby I chatted with a young German man waiting for a friend and having trouble getting his tie just right, possibly because I was distracting him. He said he'd paid a lot to hear the title role soprano whose name escapes me right now. I am not the big voice critic, but I did notice that she sometimes could not be heard over the orchestra.

We could often not see which character was singing, which made the complicated plot not seem worth following. The bright spots were the third act ballet, wonderful, and the two intermissions where we always enjoy chatting over a glass of wine and people watching, and where we now know where the water jugs and glasses are kept (far left-hand corner from the staircase). We left after 2nd intermission, both a little tired.

Another play, another night: An Inspector Calls, down the block from Sherlock Holmes Pub near Charing Cross/ground zero. Inventive set, but the plot struck me as maybe a little safe and dated. It was fun, anyway.

I took the Thames Clipper to Greenwich, especially fun on a sunny day, to the National Maritime Museum. Love that place. Had soup on the cafeteria terrace, then took my time in Emma Hamilton: Seduction and Celebrity. (Still on a couple more weeks, till April 17.) Well worth lingering. What a beauty she was, and what a story. There are several Romney portraits; so much better in person.

Thames Clipper back to town, just in time to decide, disembark, and dash across Millenium Bridge for Evensong at St. Paul's. Monday's guest choir day. This time Chad's College choir, heavier on discordant organ than I like, but heavenly vocal harmonies.
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Old Apr 5th, 2017, 03:10 PM
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Staying at the Garden View, near Earl's Court tube, would not have been my first choice as a first-time tourist, but it was fun to stay in another part of town this time. Good bus routes run nearby, interesting ethnic shops around North End Road.

Hannah and I rented Boris Bikes (OK if I keep calling them that?) on Sunday, rode down to Hammersmith Bridge and down the path on the other side, then around Putney. We stopped in for a bite at The Duke's Head, a lovely riverside pub. The neighborhood was heaving with male football fans until it suddenly emptied across Putney Bridge to Fulham.

I spent one day resting up, reading newspapers and watching TV: high quality history programs and others with a real estate fascination. I don't watch TV news at home, but could not get enough of the fresh madness unfolding daily in Washington DC.
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