RobynFrance

Greetings all?jetlagged and happy, DH and I return from our trip?we had more bumps on the way home than the whole trip, but more about that later. Just a note?we were booked with Air France and Delta on code-shared flights?this element provided non-stop problems from the initial booking, where Air France called with changed flights, Delta denied it?spent hours trying to get our tickets straightened out up front?and almost missed our flight home for the same reasons?crazy?as all had been confirmed by phone multiple times, but as Air France informed us, their systems don?t work together so problems occur daily. Just a warning to others, allow extra time at the airport and reconfirm repeatedly. I should have some pictures to attach to this after a few days, if you are interested.

We settled into our seats for an earlyish flight to Paris?note to myself here?it really is better to take the later flight as there really is hardly any time to sleep on flights that leave US at 4:30 and arrive in Paris at 6:30 AM. As I had confirmed my fruit plate the night before, I was feeling quite virtuous as we settled in for dinner?should have guessed, not there. But the AF flight attendant was so sweet?she said she would invent a light plate for me from a combination of things they had on the other plates and the business class items. Perfect!?fortunately I had brought several tipped-in cards with me with signed images of my paintings and I gave her one later?she seemed very pleased. Flight late into Paris--7:10 -so we figured we were doomed to miss our 7:30 Bordeaux flight. We scooted off the plane and were thrilled to find an Air France agent with a huge sign saying Bordeaux-Stockholm?as she said to a small group of about 8 of us?follow me and walk quickly so we can make your flights?we were stunned as she took us through a maze of halls at breakneck speed?completely avoided immigration?and took us through security on a private basis and to the gate where we boarded. We were impressed! Settled into our comfortable seats on the Bordeaux flight, served pain au chocolat and croissants with some coffee (fruit plate be damned), took a deep breath and said---ahhhh?we are in France. Wound up sitting next to a gentleman who owned homes in Sarlat?our first stop?and Montpellier, my first university town in France many years ago?so we had a pleasant conversation.

Arrived in Bordeaux?raining lightly?picked up rental car?National?and off we went?decided to stop in St. Emilion on the way?pretty spot, but we were interested to get on our way and settled in. In the end, we are local wine people and the grand cru wines are not of particular interest. We stop at Beynac for lunch on our way to Sarlat and take a little walk up the main stone street?sky has cleared quite a bit and it is pretty?buy a French phone card at the Poste?and call our hosts. We are on our way.

Arrived at our B & B?DH doing yeoman?s job of negotiating Sarlat streets?navigation in these medieval cities always tricky?but arrive we did at Chambre d?hôtes Toulemon, a block off the main square of Sarlat in a large private home?we get keys to gate, our private entrance and room. Love the fact that we are right in town, but still private?garden could definitely use some clean-up and care?it could be a perfect spot but is sadly forlorn and neglected and is not inviting in its current condition. Very nice owners pile us high with info, bring us some juice and we settle into our room?very large, but with 3 beds?one queen, one single and one double?a lot of beds for 2 people, but a pleasant enough décor and a quite nice bathroom?more on pluses and minuses of this spot later. We spend the next 5 nights here?quickly head down to the main square a short block away, Place de la Liberté and stroll around, getting a feel of the town. We had been here for a short stay about 10 years ago?more breathtaking than we remembered?perfect streets and alleyways, lovely stone walkways filled with gorgeous medieval buildings everywhere?and no feeling of a Disney recreation, as we find some towns which have been too spiffed up. The Hôtel de Ville dominates the square, with towers, sculptures, and two story buildings forming an enclosed feeling?window boxes are everywhere filled to overflowing with geraniums and ivy?spilling over the Hôtel de Ville and the large terrace where the café goers settle in. Love to hear the clock sound twice for each hour. Decide to stop for a glass of Pécharmant at the café on the square and watch the world go by. It is still grey out, but no rain for the moment. We buy a paper?we each have a good book to read for the trip?and decide we will come back each afternoon and read, sip and watch the world go by late in the day.
We clean up for dinner, decide to wear my paisley shawl, as it is chilly, to the Auberge du Mirandol?Al has the foie gras, then steak with cepes, the famous Sarlardais potatoes, cheese and dessert?I --the salade de gesiers (hold the gizzards I tell them)?filled with walnuts and ham?way too much for a first course?duck breast, the ever present potatoes ?which are divine -- and custard and figs for dessert--nice atmosphere, good food, reasonable, but we both agree we can?t eat this much, even though we leave things on our plates?one oops?we had forgotten how much the Dordogne menus are dominated by foie gras, goose, and duck in every conceivable manner?and we prefer other items. ?Duck duck goose? becomes our battle cry in menu perusing as we select our restaurants this week. As we leave the restaurant, the church and all the buildings are lit with amber lighting under the night sky and the yellow stone shines golden. A few people strolling, but it is a quiet Tuesday night, on the fringes of tourist season. To bed and a well-deserved night of sleep.

We wake the next morning, have breakfast in our room and head out to see what the Wednesday market is like---WOW!! It is so much more than we ever dreamed?just a block from our quiet quarters is a bustling square with booths lining the streets---garlands of garlic varieties, including the pink garlic of Lautrec, occupy a whole stand, sausages in every variety, some shaped like big cow pies which are local sausages filled with cepes, beautiful bunches of red and white radishes, gourds for the season and people offering samples of all---cheeses, sausages, cake, breads, jams?it is the best market we have ever been to---and we have been to so many in the past?the medieval setting is perfect. A musical group sets up in the middle of things?Paris-Londres and plays a bit?sort of a blue grass type of fiddle with guitar and singing?then hawk their CDs a bit. We have resos for the Font de Gaume caves this morning at 11?when DH makes a pronouncement learned at a New Year?s Eve party in his youth---?Never leave a great party to go to another?the second one is never as good.? Great I say, as I am loving the market and just strolling in the festive morning?sunny too after arriving in the rain?and I figure we can catch another tour at Font de Gaume later in the week. So we stay and walk and sample and absorb zhy we come to France ?the pure enjoyment of life. We talk with a few artists who are displaying their works and head in and out of a few galleries. As a painter, I always like to talk to other artists on any trip--we approach a bright courtyard with the Gallery Pierre and find gorgeous impressionist-type oils. I chat with the owner who questions me about my French and doesn?t want to believe that I am American?I convince him by speaking English?turns out he is Dutch but lives in Sarlat and his brother is the ?Pierre??apparently quite renowned. The paintings are expensive, so I console myself with 6 of the beautiful cards--and think of what I shall paint upon return. The market starts breaking up around 1, and we decide to get a bite. Despite the promises of last night, we stop in at the Coup de Fourchette, where we order omelettes aux cepes, accompanied by the Sarladais potatoes?and this for the person who has been trying to stay on the Low-carb diet for a few weeks before departure?and glasses of red wine. We sit out on the terrace with the sun streaming down on us and just enjoy. The bread we?ve seen so far tends toward the pain de campagne rather than the traditional white baguettes?which is just an additional temptation?I grew to love the pain de campagne?often with quite a bit of rye in it?when I went to school in France and we would take trips out to the country?it?s my fave. We spend a few hours in the afternoon visiting La Roque Gageac and Domme, but we are so sated with the beauty of that market and lunch that we sort of purr through the rest of the day. We return to keep our late afternoon cafe promise and read and people watch for a good hour.

Tonight I am sticking to my guns re dinner?we go to a lovely restaurant, but before they seat us I check to be sure it is ok if I just order an appetizer (and wine of course)?they are very welcoming?and Al orders a full dinner. We have a super time recalling our day, walk around town and then return back to our room to read a bit before bed. What a blissful day.

RobynFrance

oh gracious--something has turned all my little dashes into ? --so sorry.

Michael

To avoid the ? you must specify text only in your word processor before you write the text.

toni

Dear RobynFrance, your report is a delight. Such a great writing style. I'm going to the Dordogne next June and your report is pushing me over the edge with excitement. Thankyou and keep it coming.

RobynFrance

Thank you Michael--does that mean I save it as plain text or is there another step I need to take. I'll With 8 days to go on the trip, I certainly want to fix it now--sorry.

Michael

With my word processor, I open a new document and immediately save as plain text. Then I type the document and save over the original blank document. If I save it after doing the typing, the question marks will still appear.

I always thought the the Auberge de Mirandol offers good value for its price, but I felt that the steaks looked a little <i>semello&iuml;de</i>.

RobynFrance

I'll try your method on the next go-round Michael--will do a short one to be sure it works for me--in terms of the steak, it was quite tasty, although a bit rare but with a delicious sauce--definitely not shoe leather style--although heavens knows we've had a few of those too.

Sue4

I love your report. Can't wait for more!
I'm planning a trip to the Dorgogne next May, so your details are just great for me. Keep it coming!

OReilly

Robyn:

This is delightful!

Thank you and please give us MORE gt

regards Ger

cigalechanta

Yes, Robin, <b> more </b>
Are there any on your paintings on line for us to see?
Welcome back, so enjoying your report.

RobynFrance

Thanks all--you give me lots of encouragement--and we did see some places which won my heart about which I have seen very little on our board, so I shall get with it--especially since we are getting the remains of Jeanne today in NC. Mimi--I'll be glad to post a few paintings along with my photos, once I figure that little deal out.

ira

Hi Robyn,

Thanks for a great report.

Where was the Wednesday market in Sarlat? I am planning a trip to the Dordogne in 2005.

Can you tell me something about P&eacute;charmant wine? I googled, but got no info.

RobynFrance

Ira--the Wednesday market is in the Place de la Libert&eacute; and in the little streets and squares leading to it. It is quite a large market, but didn't seem to have the clothing and kitchen stuff that has its display on the commercial drag right beyond the medieval center. There are fewer people than at the Saturday market, but plenty to get a good spirit. Honestly with the background, flowers, barkers and music, you will feel as if you are starring a movie.

Re P&eacute;charmant, it is a red wine of the Dordogne, and most caf&eacute;s serve it by the glass, along with Bergerac red, rose and white and C&ocirc;tes de Bergerac. There is a really dark ruby toned Ros&eacute;, Bergerac that some of the restaurants serve by the glass or pitcher that is tops for an inexpensive wine (bears no resemblance to the soda-pop rose served in this country which we don't touch). We usually order a glass at lunch, have one late in the afternoon and order an ap&eacute;ro at dinner and then another glass or small pitcher with dinner. Ira, as we like to go every year, we are rather budget oriented travelers, so if you are looking for more refined wine info, there are probably lots on this site who are connoisseurs and can help.

cigalechanta

Another praise for the P&eacute;chachment!

ira

Hi Robyn,

Thanks for the response.

&gt;we are rather budget oriented travelers, so if you are looking for more refined wine info,...&lt;

Oh no. I'm very interested in what's good in local wines. Thanks.

hopingtotravel

Looking at the calendar I think we will be in the Sarlat area on the religious holiday in May (Ascencion? I can't remember the spelling). Will the streets be clogged and the shops closed?

RobynFrance

Hi everyone--I had tried saving my Word document in every way possible--no dice--the ? keep appearing--have now tried to substitute .. for my -- So please forgive--no matter how I save, I get problems in this window. I can keep my report shorter and will avoid my -- in the future--can't do anything about the Word apostrophes though. So sorry!

We are sleeping well..it seems to get light much later than at home in September and we are snoozing until 8 ..amazing, we never wake up that late at home. As we breakfast in our room, we make 2 decisions..#1, we will not continue to get breakfast in the morning at our B &amp; B..it is very reasonable and they provide juice, but I don?t care for their coffee and half the reason I come to France is for a wonderful bowl of caf&eacute; au lait in the morning..also, you cannot put huge baskets of bread in front of us..sadly, we are not yet adults, but rather kids who eat too much candy when presented with quantities..so we agree to find another alternative so that we eat lightly in the morning and a reasonable lunch and then we will feel like a 4 course dinner. Decision #2..today we will attempt to get a tour at the Font de Gaume and work our schedule around it. My phone call there is met by a recorded announcement telling us to get reservations before coming..but then following the announcement, there is the telling click..but I say, hey, I?ve been down this road with the airlines many a time..that?s not enough to stop me. So off we go to Les Eyzies and we find the little office at Font de Gaume..I jump out of the car just as a Swiss tour bus pulls up and keep my fingers crossed..there is a ?complet? sign in the window but in I go..I ask about any available tours today and she informs me that there is room on the 4 o?clock tour..great I say..give her the credit card and off we go. We find parking in Les Eyzies readily..walk about the town and then head up to the Musee National de Prehistoire?it is a fabulous building, just opened in July set into the rocky promontory about Les Eyzies and into the ruins of an old chateau from the 16th century. But the interior is very modern, with the exhibits well lighted and set against stone walls. It is interesting, beautiful and not too crowded..nice restrooms too..a definite upgrade that France has undertaken in the past few years. Some of the exhibits have life size prehistoric animals who are quite scary..a little babe in arms points to one of the animals and starts yelling..une vache une grande vache..a big cow..everyone laughs as I think it was a giant mammoth..he got my attention in a hurry...enormous. Some of the early man re.creations were so lifelike it gave me the willys..actually looked like a few people I?ve known along the way.

We finish at the museum and decide to head on to LeBugue for a stroll and lunch. St. Cirq has talked about it so often, I want to know it first hand. We walk up the river and into some of the little ruelles..it?s very quiet and pretty..we approach a park where there is a little lake with a spout shooting water up in the center?we meet some British folks there who tell us that there is usually a swan couple who live on the lake, but they have been gone for the past few days. They love Le Bugue and come often. We then head on down to the river..the bridge has lovely flower baskets hanging and it is a calm spot..as it is lunchtime, not much shaking. As we walk along the river banks, a fisherman hears us speaking English and introduces a little patter?a Brit ..it seems he has had a home near here for 20 years and loves to come to Le Bugue to fish and chat. We head on to a little restaurant on the main street which should have a terrace right over the river?it does. It is a warm, sunny day, the view can?t be beat and we chill a bit after we order?each have a salad..Al the nicoise and I the campagnarde..a glass of Bergerac and we are ready to go. We decide to head on the St. L&eacute;on de V&eacute;z&egrave;re from here..the road gets very narrow, tiny white road on the map, which passes at very close proximity Roque St. Christophe...it is fascinating, but DH can?t look too much or he may hit tourists getting off the bus..but it is sort of a rock ledge cliff dwelling in the midst of the primeval forest. We don?t stop but wind our way along the dense, green road to St. L&eacute;on..beautiful river with the weeping willows overhead..dappled sun reflecting on the water..picture perfect. The town is tiny, streets are really small lanes, with pretty old houses tucked in..off we go to the church, a Romanesque church with round towers, different than others we?ve seen..sort of a Camelot feel to it..it was on the St. Jacques de Compostelle pilgrim route..a little pedestrian bridge from the river..peaceful. And may I mention nice clean public restrooms (I spent my earlier years in France perfecting usage of the toilettes &agrave; la turque, so I am quite pleased with this acquiescence to more modern options..although it did encourage strong thighs).

We follow our road back..Al hits no tourists and gets a real glimpse at St. Christophe..and get back to Font de Gaume in plenty of time. We have quite a small group..aybe 10.12 and a very informative guide. He shows us countless cave drawings, many of which use the contour of the walls to develop the concept of the animals..we bring a warm sweater and rain jacket, but we?re actually a bit warm with all that. It is very interesting, but to me, not as impressive as Pech Merle (for drawings and formation) or La Grotte des demoiselles, which we found to be fantastic for its formations several years ago. We thank our guide and head back to Sarlat..gosh, we?ve had a good day. We decide to follow the advice one of our fellow Fodorites who recommended the Pizzeria Romane?had divine pizza..the best..Al mushroom and ham, I artichokes, each with a salad and share a pitcher of chianti. We?re on the run from duck, duck goose tonight and it feels good. Back to our B &amp; B and I am about the finish up L?Affaire of Diane Johnson..it?s a fun one, and I think better than Le Divorce and Le Mariage. Al is reading something deeper.

elisabet

RobynFrance, I was all set to go to Greece in June. You have given me cause to rethink that plan. My last trip out of the US was to most of the Dordogne towns you described so beautifully. Drat! I thought I had my mind made up! Loved your descriptions.
Thank you.

toni

RobynFrance, I feel like I've been sitting in your back seat. Where are we going next? Such a wonderful report that I am devouring every word. My children however are tiring of me stealing their computer time to check on your updates, ah well c'est la vie!

padbrasher

RobynFrance,
Merci beaucoup. I am enjoying your trip report so much that I am looking at Air France's Winter Specials for our annual March trip. The Dordogne is one of the few regions in France that I have yet to visit and it sounds so wonderful(sans foie gras). Please continue your lovely narrative.