JES28

Can anyone recommend the best and most authentic spots for pintxos in SS? Places with a view?

What about great dinner spots-authentic representation of area and region with charm (prefer rustic decor to formal) that doesn't have a $200 pp prix fix?
Thanks!

kimhe

<best and most authentic spots for pintxos>

Here's a list of places that are both top quality and authentic:

In the Parte Vieja/Old town:

Small Goiz-Argi with fabulous prawn-skewers that have set the standard for decades: http://www.yelp.com/biz/goiz-argi-san-sebasti%C3%A1n-2

Close by Txepetxa is anchovies heaven and an institution in town: http://www.bartxepetxa.com/

Best cured ham in the world in emblematic La Cepa from 1948: http://www.barlacepa.com/en/

Ganbara is famous for fantastic mushroom pintxos in season: http://www.ganbarajatetxea.com/presentation

In the center (fewer tourists):

San Marcial/Alustiza, close to Hotel Londres, very popular with locals for decades: http://www.todopintxos.com/bares/bar..._bar&id_bar=99

Casa Valles with the perhaps most famous pintxo in town, the classical Gilda named after Rita Hayworths character in the movie of the same name. The Gilda history started in 1946 when the place of the Vallés brothers from Olite got license as a taberna. The then new house invention olive, anchovies and green, hot pepper on a toothpick was named after the Gilda movie which premiered the same year. Now it's in almost every bar in San Sebastian/Donostia, but it started here. As local Mikelg put it: "a touch of sin in your mouth". http://www.barvalles.com/

In the Gros district, just across the city river Urumea, even fewer tourists:

Bodega Donostiarra: https://es.foursquare.com/v/bodega-d...a8224ba167f53f
http://www.bodegadonostiarra.com/

Have a shark pintxo and a cocktail at Garbola just around the corner:
http://www.todopintxos.com/bares/bar...3&do=vista_bar

And Patxi Bergara was among those who started the Basque food revolution back in the 80's. He retired a couple of years ago, but the bar is now run by two of his nephews. Here you can easily stay all night: http://www.pinchosbergara.com/

<great dinner spots-authentic representation of area and region with charm (prefer rustic decor to formal) that doesn't have a $200 pp prix fix?>

You have of course Belle Epoque La Perla right on the La Concha beach. Spectacular views, especially when there are thunder storms and lightning by night: http://www.la-perla.net/restaurante/

The Alaia asador up at Monte Igueldo: http://restaurantealaia.com/

Branka on the Ondarreta beach and in the far end of the La Concha bay. Great views of both the bay and the city: http://www.branka-tenis.com/

You could also go to picturesque Pasai Donibane/Pasajes San Juan just out of town for a lunch in one of the several fine seafront restaurants. Walk here along the coast over the Ulia hill in a couple of hours, bus from central Plaza Guipuzkoa or a ten min taxi ride.
Restaurante Txulotxo: http://www.restaurantetxulotxo.com/
http://www.viamichelin.com/web/Resta...o-222194-41102
Restaurante Casa Camara:
http://www.casacamara.com/ http://www.viamichelin.com/web/Resta...a-222192-41102

Or have the seafood meal of your life in Getaria, just west of San Sebastian. Several fabulous places down in the small harbour. It goes like this: http://www.thepauperedchef.com/2007/...-in-getar.html

But not much beats the views and the food at Michelin three star Akelarre. Had a memory for life lunch here not long ago for about 100€ pp. We had the "Sea garden" appetizers, the traditional and local fish and shellfish soup "a la Donostiarra", Hake and its Kokotxa with Oyster and Oyster Leaf, Grilled Iberic “Secreto” with Pepper seeds and Garlic in three different versions (we had two half main dishes on their suggestion), chocolates and a couple of glasses of wine.

I will especially remember the Akelarre version of the fabulous San Sebastián fish and shellfish soup (which usually is excellent also in "normal" restaurants up here, highly recommended!), and the Hake and Kokotxa is perhaps the best thing I've ever eaten.
http://gastronomyblog.com/2010/06/04...san-sebastian/

No views to speak of, but I always have my first night dinner in San Sebastian in Casa Urola. Urola is a true San Sebastián classic, this is the first place many locals will take a visitor to experience what the traditional food culture in San Sebastián is all about. Same waitress last October as the first time I visited in 1987, and same sky high standard as ever. Pablo Loureiro is considered among the three best grill chefs in all of Euskadi/The Basque Country.
http://www.casaurolajatetxea.es/es/portada/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...e_Country.html
http://www.lomejordelagastronomia.co...tes/casa-urola

And this fun video is an excellent intro to the food culture in San Sebastian. Enjoy! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwmBAvqa_0U

kimhe

In my restaurant suggestions above I focused on views, but when it comes to "authentic representation of area and region with charm (prefer rustic decor to formal)" you should also check out the many local sidrerias. Some of them stay open also out of the cider season: http://www.sansebastianturismo.com/e...t/cider-houses
Dozens of cider houses in small Astigarraga just outside San Sebastian: http://www.sidrerias.ws/gipuzkoa/astigarraga

You should also check the traditional Asadores (grill houses), there are some fine and rustic places towards and up at Monte Igueldo in the western part of town. Or you have legendary grill houses like Casa Julian and Casa Nicolas in close by Tolosa:
Casa Nicolas: http://www.asadorcasanicolas.com/presentacion3/?idi=ing
Casa Julian: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...e_Country.html
Prepare for the steak excepeience of a lifetime: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOaLtnbKOos

And of course Rekondo. Classic Basque food in a traditional Basque house and over the top wine cellar (and views...):
http://www.rekondo.com/about/philosophy/index.html http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...e_Country.html

JES28

Kimhe, you are amazing!! Thank you SO much!!!! ����

kimhe

... and here's the correct link to Bar Bergara in the local atmosphere Gros district: http://pinchosbergara.es/

JES28

Also, kimhe we will have a car and will definitely take your recommendation and head to Elkano in Getaria. We will travel for a great spot and love to explore so if you have any other musts outside of SS too, we would love to hear. We will also be spending a cpl of nights in Bidart on the French side if any great reco's over that side. Thanks again!!!!

kimhe

<musts outside of SS>

Getaria and Elkano is a great choice.

Tolosa for steaks in either Casa Julian or Casa Nicolas.

In San Sebastian itself, you should perhaps explore the elegant Ondarreta area and the close by and charming Antiguo district in and around Calle Matia. Few tourists find their way out here (and a spectacular 20-25 min walk along the bay from the center). In Antiguo you'll find several fine pintxos bars and no fuss restaurants where locals have a traditional three course lunch with wine included for some 10-12€. http://www.sansebastianturismo.com/e...t-elegant-area
http://thingstodoinsansebastian.com/...tion/districts

Here are two excellent online guides with tons of suggestions on things to do, see, eat and experience in the area: http://www.euskoguide.com/
http://tourism.euskadi.eus/en/

JES28

So amazing, thank you!!!!!!!

kimhe

Here are some fine places in Calle Matia in Antiguo within a hundred meters. Not a bad idea to make a night of it out here, and the walk back to the center of town is spectacular at night.

Bar Antzara in Calle Matia 14: http://www.tripadvisor.es/Restaurant...e_Country.html

Vasco-Japanese fusion at Txubillo in # 5: http://www.txubillo.com/bar-carta.asp?Idioma=en

Bar Oliyos, just around the corner: http://www.tripadvisor.es/Restaurant...e_Country.html

Trikuharri Taberna in # 35: http://www.tripadvisor.es/Restaurant...sque_Coun.html

Albistur cider house in # 52. http://www.sidreriaalbiztur.com/

f1racegirl

Here's a link to my blog post about my recent trip to San Sebastián:

http://www.parisonadime.com/blog/

JES28

Kimhe,
So far we have been to Elkano - probably the best fish we have ever had in our lives together with amazing service and a beautiful little town, and Casa Nicolas which was equally outstanding for steak. Thank you so much for these incredible suggestions.
We head to San Sebastián today and can't wait to try some of you others.
One thing we are having trouble finding is a restaurant with dimmer lights and perhaps candles for more of a romantic atmosphere. All of the restaurants are so bright here and they put the lights on full force at night, which I'm guessing is just part of the culture.
But Before we venture out, Do any of your SS have a soft candlelight atmosphere?
Thanks so much again!!!!

kimhe

Glad to hear that you so much enjoyed both Elkano and Casa Nicolas!

You are right, in genereal the restaurants here are very bright. For more of a romantic atmosphere in San Sebastian, my wife and I have had great nights in especially La Cueva in small Plaza de la Trinidad and down in the basement in Egosari. La Cueva is the best atmosphere although perhaps not a culinary experience (a plain, good meal) and we've had great steaks in Egosari with fabulous sauces.

Have an especially soft spot for La Cueva. The first time here, in the late 80's, the son in the house ran down in the harbour to find us the fish we wanted. They left us with a free bottle of wine for the wait, and eventually, with a fabulous fish. On another occasion my wife was allowed to dry some of her clothes on the owen here after a heavy San Sebastian rainstorm. We were the only guests, and both we and the owner had a few glasses too many, a night to remember. Same family runs the place today. And it was in the Egosari basement where we decided to marry back in 1996...

La Cueva: http://restaurantelacueva.org/
Egosari: http://www.egosari.es/index.php/es/

kimhe

And take a look at Aita Mari with views of the small harbour. Have had great pintxos here, and plan for dinner in October: http://www.aitamari.com/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...e_Country.html