Quick notes from 2 weeks in Turkey
Nov 4th, 2013, 05:58 PM
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Quick notes from 2 weeks in Turkey
We got back from Turkey a couple weeks ago, and all I can is…wow! It was wonderful, and exceeded all expectations. Lots of thanks to this board who helped me with everything for planning the trip.
I will not do a day by day trip report, but will try to list some things that hopefully will help the others.
Domestic flights in Turkey – we flew both Turkish Airlines and SunExpress. They were all very good, always on time. I booked them online before leaving, and the booking process was easy. On all flights we got a snack (sandwich, salad, cookie) plus soft beverages, water, coffee, tea. Much better than any US domestic flight.
Car rental – we rented from Budget, who had the best price for what we wanted. We got an automatic diesel Citroen of some sort, and had no problems with it. Yes, gas is expensive in Turkey, but the car was very efficient and we used less than a tank in a week. There is no traffic, unless you drive through bigger cities, so you almost own the road.
GPS – we had our own which was in most cases useless (see the ton of bad reviews for Garmin/Turkey maps on Amazon). While it found our hotel each time, it never found any point of interest. In our case, the ruins…
Language barriers – there were none. Even in restaurants without an English menu and with nobody speaking English, people were so friendly and eager to help that we always managed to communicate with them.
Istanbul Card – we got it mostly to skip the lines, and it worked well for us.
Time in Istanbul – we had 3 ½ days and I think this would be the minimum to spend there. More would be better, as there is so much to see. Here is how we spent our time there:
Day 1 (the ½ day) – we were hoping to do the Bosphorus Cruise, but customs and getting to our hotel took longer than anticipated, so we decided to skip it. We just walked around, soaking the atmosphere.
Day 2 – Topkapi Palace (spent 4-5 hours there), then after lunch Hagia Sophia (about 2 hrs, maybe more), Basilica Cistern (~ 1hr) and the Blue Mosque (another hr or so). It helps that are all close-by. At Topkapi, we were there at 9am, and visited the Harem first, which was a very good approach to avoid the crowds. Hagia Sophia was absolute amazing.
Day 3 - Yenii Cami, the Spice Bazaar, Rustem Pasha, Süleymaniye Mosque and the Grand Bazaar. Finding an entrance to the Grand Bazaar was not as easy as expected, but it gave us the opportunity to see some parts of Istanbul we would have missed otherwise.
Day 4 - Dolmabahçe Palace and Chora Church. It was raining and we did not have time to go back to Galata Tower. But for Chora Church it was all worth it.
We did not get on the Asian side of Istanbul, so we will have to go back some day.
Public transportation in Istanbul – you can pay per ride (3 TL/ride), or get a card that costs 5TL (you get that back when you return the card) which allows you to pay just 2 TL/ride. The only problem was that while you can buy regular tokens at any tram stop, you can add TL to your tram card only in some places, and these places are not always a tram stop. In once instance we walked in circles to find the kiosk that would let us add more TL to the card, did not find it and bought regular tokens instead. So use the card, but make sure you add more TL in advance, to have enough on the card when you need it.
Trams are fast and frequent, easy to use.
Restaurants in Istanbul - let’s start with food in general in Turkey. Delicious! We did not have a single bad meal. We drank the local tap water sometimes, and had no funny stomach issue.
• Amedros – good food close to our hotel
• Sarnic – magic atmosphere in an old candle-lit cistern. Very good food, too.
• Pasazade – another great meal. The restaurant was at street level, but after dinner they invited us to have our drinks on their terrace on the 8th floor. Great views.
• Imbat – good food, nice service, but while we were enjoying our dessert they told us we need to move to a different table because ours was reserved by someone else. Couldn’t they waited another 10 minutes? We would have been out of there…oh well.
Ephesus – we did that as a very early flight from Istanbul, and spent the following night in Selcuk. Our hotel picked us up at the airport, so we were in Ephesus at about 10:30am.
We spent more than 3 hrs there, and it was amazing. Glad we went, even though the crowds were a lot worse than in Istanbul. We spent the rest of the afternoon visiting the St.John basilica in Selcuk. Too bad the archeological museum was closed…
The terrace house require an additional entry fee, but it’s soooo worth it.
Cappadocia – we had about 3 1/2 days there, and were happy with that amount of time. Unfortunately the weather did not cooperate, and while we expected temperatures in the 60s, we got them in the 30s with periods of drizzle. It was only on our 3rd day there that we found a store selling hats and gloves…
We stayed in Goreme (in a cave hotel – I strongly recommend the experience), and given the Goreme – Urgup debate, we are happy we picked Goreme. It gave us a great base for exploring the area. We did not rent a car, but took a green tour one day for the Ihlara Valley and an underground city, and another ½ day tour for the Cavusin / Pasabagi Valley area. We passed through Urgup, and it looked much bigger than Goreme. We tend to like smaller towns.
I read a lot about how crowded the Goreme Open Air Museum was, but we found it ok. Maybe because of the rain? Again, the Dark Church requires an additional fee, but it deserves it.
Restaurants in Goreme:
• Seten
• Dibek – definitely one of the favorites of the trip
• My Mother’s House – ok. We wanted to try Topdeck, but it was closed that day (I think it was a Sunday), and the hotel recommended this instead. Not as good as the other two, but really, not bad.
We did not do the balloon ride. We originally wanted to, but changed our mind after the fatal accident in May. While we were there, the flights were canceled for 4 days in a row due to weather (is it “flights” when it comes to balloons?). Anyway, the 5th day they finally went up, and what a show that was!
Unfortunately, the winds were still stronger than ideal, and one balloon crashed into one of the fairy chimneys. There were no injuries, but a couple staying in our hotel happened to be in that balloon, and they said it was scary. Other people we talked to who were in a different balloon talked about spinning out of control at a point, although they did not have any incident. I guess after 4 days of no income, balloon companies were a little too eager to get back in the air, cutting some security corners. It made me wonder how many other “small” accidents were there, but without any fatality, that we never heard about.
Turquoise Coast – we flew from Cappadocia via Istanbul to Dalaman, and rented a car. We kept it for 6 days (4 in Kas, 2 in Cirali).
About Kalkan-Kas debate – we were happy to pick Kas. It’s smaller, with a nice pedestrian only zone, good restaurants, and a good base for the area.
Restaurants in Kas, all recommended:
• Ikbal – very good, we returned a 2nd time
• Maya
• Bahce
Cats in Turkey: they are everywhere, all very clean and (or at least so it seems), very well fed. They have good manners (if you can say that about cats), and while they are around when you eat, they never beg, never harass you for food. If you offer…then it’s appreciated.
How we spent our time:
Day 1 - Patara and Letoon
Day 2 – day trip to a Greek island (Turks call it Meis, Greeks call it "Kastellorizo" (or "Castellorizo"). It’s a small island, with not much to do, but a totally different atmosphere than Turkey.
Day 3 – Xanthos and Saklikent gorge
Day 4 – Kekova island and Simena (our hotel arranged the boat), then St. Nicholas Church, in Demre and Myra on our way to Cirali
Day 5 – Olympos
We flew back from from Antalya. Returning the car was easy, the only tricky part was figuring out that we needed to get INTO the airport parking lot for that, behind the barrier. The car rental return sign was small, on the left hand side.
I know this is just a summary, and if I had time and some talent I could write a book about it, but instead I will let you see the pictures and just encourage everybody to go to Turkey.
http://ioana-mark.smugmug.com/Travel...4024&k=wBkSGCM
I will not do a day by day trip report, but will try to list some things that hopefully will help the others.
Domestic flights in Turkey – we flew both Turkish Airlines and SunExpress. They were all very good, always on time. I booked them online before leaving, and the booking process was easy. On all flights we got a snack (sandwich, salad, cookie) plus soft beverages, water, coffee, tea. Much better than any US domestic flight.
Car rental – we rented from Budget, who had the best price for what we wanted. We got an automatic diesel Citroen of some sort, and had no problems with it. Yes, gas is expensive in Turkey, but the car was very efficient and we used less than a tank in a week. There is no traffic, unless you drive through bigger cities, so you almost own the road.
GPS – we had our own which was in most cases useless (see the ton of bad reviews for Garmin/Turkey maps on Amazon). While it found our hotel each time, it never found any point of interest. In our case, the ruins…
Language barriers – there were none. Even in restaurants without an English menu and with nobody speaking English, people were so friendly and eager to help that we always managed to communicate with them.
Istanbul Card – we got it mostly to skip the lines, and it worked well for us.
Time in Istanbul – we had 3 ½ days and I think this would be the minimum to spend there. More would be better, as there is so much to see. Here is how we spent our time there:
Day 1 (the ½ day) – we were hoping to do the Bosphorus Cruise, but customs and getting to our hotel took longer than anticipated, so we decided to skip it. We just walked around, soaking the atmosphere.
Day 2 – Topkapi Palace (spent 4-5 hours there), then after lunch Hagia Sophia (about 2 hrs, maybe more), Basilica Cistern (~ 1hr) and the Blue Mosque (another hr or so). It helps that are all close-by. At Topkapi, we were there at 9am, and visited the Harem first, which was a very good approach to avoid the crowds. Hagia Sophia was absolute amazing.
Day 3 - Yenii Cami, the Spice Bazaar, Rustem Pasha, Süleymaniye Mosque and the Grand Bazaar. Finding an entrance to the Grand Bazaar was not as easy as expected, but it gave us the opportunity to see some parts of Istanbul we would have missed otherwise.
Day 4 - Dolmabahçe Palace and Chora Church. It was raining and we did not have time to go back to Galata Tower. But for Chora Church it was all worth it.
We did not get on the Asian side of Istanbul, so we will have to go back some day.
Public transportation in Istanbul – you can pay per ride (3 TL/ride), or get a card that costs 5TL (you get that back when you return the card) which allows you to pay just 2 TL/ride. The only problem was that while you can buy regular tokens at any tram stop, you can add TL to your tram card only in some places, and these places are not always a tram stop. In once instance we walked in circles to find the kiosk that would let us add more TL to the card, did not find it and bought regular tokens instead. So use the card, but make sure you add more TL in advance, to have enough on the card when you need it.
Trams are fast and frequent, easy to use.
Restaurants in Istanbul - let’s start with food in general in Turkey. Delicious! We did not have a single bad meal. We drank the local tap water sometimes, and had no funny stomach issue.
• Amedros – good food close to our hotel
• Sarnic – magic atmosphere in an old candle-lit cistern. Very good food, too.
• Pasazade – another great meal. The restaurant was at street level, but after dinner they invited us to have our drinks on their terrace on the 8th floor. Great views.
• Imbat – good food, nice service, but while we were enjoying our dessert they told us we need to move to a different table because ours was reserved by someone else. Couldn’t they waited another 10 minutes? We would have been out of there…oh well.
Ephesus – we did that as a very early flight from Istanbul, and spent the following night in Selcuk. Our hotel picked us up at the airport, so we were in Ephesus at about 10:30am.
We spent more than 3 hrs there, and it was amazing. Glad we went, even though the crowds were a lot worse than in Istanbul. We spent the rest of the afternoon visiting the St.John basilica in Selcuk. Too bad the archeological museum was closed…
The terrace house require an additional entry fee, but it’s soooo worth it.
Cappadocia – we had about 3 1/2 days there, and were happy with that amount of time. Unfortunately the weather did not cooperate, and while we expected temperatures in the 60s, we got them in the 30s with periods of drizzle. It was only on our 3rd day there that we found a store selling hats and gloves…
We stayed in Goreme (in a cave hotel – I strongly recommend the experience), and given the Goreme – Urgup debate, we are happy we picked Goreme. It gave us a great base for exploring the area. We did not rent a car, but took a green tour one day for the Ihlara Valley and an underground city, and another ½ day tour for the Cavusin / Pasabagi Valley area. We passed through Urgup, and it looked much bigger than Goreme. We tend to like smaller towns.
I read a lot about how crowded the Goreme Open Air Museum was, but we found it ok. Maybe because of the rain? Again, the Dark Church requires an additional fee, but it deserves it.
Restaurants in Goreme:
• Seten
• Dibek – definitely one of the favorites of the trip
• My Mother’s House – ok. We wanted to try Topdeck, but it was closed that day (I think it was a Sunday), and the hotel recommended this instead. Not as good as the other two, but really, not bad.
We did not do the balloon ride. We originally wanted to, but changed our mind after the fatal accident in May. While we were there, the flights were canceled for 4 days in a row due to weather (is it “flights” when it comes to balloons?). Anyway, the 5th day they finally went up, and what a show that was!
Unfortunately, the winds were still stronger than ideal, and one balloon crashed into one of the fairy chimneys. There were no injuries, but a couple staying in our hotel happened to be in that balloon, and they said it was scary. Other people we talked to who were in a different balloon talked about spinning out of control at a point, although they did not have any incident. I guess after 4 days of no income, balloon companies were a little too eager to get back in the air, cutting some security corners. It made me wonder how many other “small” accidents were there, but without any fatality, that we never heard about.
Turquoise Coast – we flew from Cappadocia via Istanbul to Dalaman, and rented a car. We kept it for 6 days (4 in Kas, 2 in Cirali).
About Kalkan-Kas debate – we were happy to pick Kas. It’s smaller, with a nice pedestrian only zone, good restaurants, and a good base for the area.
Restaurants in Kas, all recommended:
• Ikbal – very good, we returned a 2nd time
• Maya
• Bahce
Cats in Turkey: they are everywhere, all very clean and (or at least so it seems), very well fed. They have good manners (if you can say that about cats), and while they are around when you eat, they never beg, never harass you for food. If you offer…then it’s appreciated.
How we spent our time:
Day 1 - Patara and Letoon
Day 2 – day trip to a Greek island (Turks call it Meis, Greeks call it "Kastellorizo" (or "Castellorizo"). It’s a small island, with not much to do, but a totally different atmosphere than Turkey.
Day 3 – Xanthos and Saklikent gorge
Day 4 – Kekova island and Simena (our hotel arranged the boat), then St. Nicholas Church, in Demre and Myra on our way to Cirali
Day 5 – Olympos
We flew back from from Antalya. Returning the car was easy, the only tricky part was figuring out that we needed to get INTO the airport parking lot for that, behind the barrier. The car rental return sign was small, on the left hand side.
I know this is just a summary, and if I had time and some talent I could write a book about it, but instead I will let you see the pictures and just encourage everybody to go to Turkey.
http://ioana-mark.smugmug.com/Travel...4024&k=wBkSGCM
Nov 4th, 2013, 06:17 PM
#2
Nice report. I think you must have run into more well mannered cats than we did. In some places they crawled all over everything and sort of begged at tables. Lots of people loved them and others were constantly pushing them away. Turkey is definitely the country for cats.
Nov 4th, 2013, 10:23 PM
#5
Awesome report. Turkey hasn't been on my list, but it is now. I've had the idea that it wasn't safe to travel there. But apparently, you didn't feel unsafe or concerned.
Thanks for posting. It looks like a great trip.
PS. The photos I saw were fantastic -- but there's just too many (749!). You might consider posting an edited album. I know it's hard to cut any out, but that's just too many to look at for me.
Thanks for posting. It looks like a great trip.
PS. The photos I saw were fantastic -- but there's just too many (749!). You might consider posting an edited album. I know it's hard to cut any out, but that's just too many to look at for me.
Nov 5th, 2013, 12:50 AM
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Thanks for such a concise but informative trip report. I have been following your trip planning process as our itinerary is very similar to yours. We have to postpone our trip there this year as I couldn't fit it with our schedule but we are good to go this coming summer...... quite excited actually! Glad you had a wonderful time!
Nov 5th, 2013, 04:03 AM
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@yestravel – sorry your “cat” experiences were not all good. We really had no problems with them, even when they were very close to food (our food). They just sat there, quietly waiting. On the other hand, Greece cats were the bagger, meow-ing type.
@cold – if it weren’t for the bad May accident, we would have done the balloon ride. Now, in retrospect, knowing what I know, I am happy we did not. We “explored” emergency rooms in a few of our last trips, and while no accident was life-threatening (well, maybe my jelly fish sting that sent me into anaphylactic shock was), they all disrupted our trips. We wanted to keep this one safe and quiet.
@boobaby – I still think that the balloon ride in Cappadocia is relatively safe, with rare fatal accidents. I would just not call it “accident free”. Before seeing the accident the day we were there, I never read of anything similar, so maybe those are rare, too.
@Songdoc – we did not feel unsafe at all during the entire trip. I think Turkey is a wonderful country, and we plan to go back someday and explore other regions. I agree about the pictures being too many, but the main reason for them is for our memories and for our families who do not travel.
@Joy, have a great trip. If going in the summer, keep in mind that any ruin site is without shade and very hot. Just have a hat and carry some water.
@cold – if it weren’t for the bad May accident, we would have done the balloon ride. Now, in retrospect, knowing what I know, I am happy we did not. We “explored” emergency rooms in a few of our last trips, and while no accident was life-threatening (well, maybe my jelly fish sting that sent me into anaphylactic shock was), they all disrupted our trips. We wanted to keep this one safe and quiet.
@boobaby – I still think that the balloon ride in Cappadocia is relatively safe, with rare fatal accidents. I would just not call it “accident free”. Before seeing the accident the day we were there, I never read of anything similar, so maybe those are rare, too.
@Songdoc – we did not feel unsafe at all during the entire trip. I think Turkey is a wonderful country, and we plan to go back someday and explore other regions. I agree about the pictures being too many, but the main reason for them is for our memories and for our families who do not travel.
@Joy, have a great trip. If going in the summer, keep in mind that any ruin site is without shade and very hot. Just have a hat and carry some water.
Nov 11th, 2013, 03:32 PM
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xyz99, thanks so much for great report. I have some specific questions and hope you will re-visit this board and answer them. I am planning to post my own planning thread soon, but maybe you can help with some of my questions.
We will spend about two weeks in IST, Capadoccia and somewhere on the coast in early June.
The idea of leaving Capadoccia and connecting thru IST to the coast seems like such a long day, so i am hoping to find the days of week for nonstop flights from Capadoccia to Antalya and work around that. But flying into Dalaman is appealing because of Kas. How bad was the day of flying with connection in IST?
Where did you stay in Kas and Cirali? If we fly to Antalya from Capadoccia, we may use Cirali as our base for the "veg" part of the trip. Very interested to hear your thoughts on both places. We may want someplace slightly more upscale than what cirali seems to offer, but like the idea of the village atmosphere and quiet beach.
Have you by chance posted reviews on TripAdvisor of the places you stayed? Thanks so much for taking the time to answer these questions.
We will spend about two weeks in IST, Capadoccia and somewhere on the coast in early June.
The idea of leaving Capadoccia and connecting thru IST to the coast seems like such a long day, so i am hoping to find the days of week for nonstop flights from Capadoccia to Antalya and work around that. But flying into Dalaman is appealing because of Kas. How bad was the day of flying with connection in IST?
Where did you stay in Kas and Cirali? If we fly to Antalya from Capadoccia, we may use Cirali as our base for the "veg" part of the trip. Very interested to hear your thoughts on both places. We may want someplace slightly more upscale than what cirali seems to offer, but like the idea of the village atmosphere and quiet beach.
Have you by chance posted reviews on TripAdvisor of the places you stayed? Thanks so much for taking the time to answer these questions.
Nov 11th, 2013, 04:57 PM
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One more question: Did you fly from Keyseri to Dalaman via IST or SAW. Anybody with experience on this or the route to Antalya, is it better to take Pegasus thru SAW or TA thru IST? (if direct flights not available) thanks.
Nov 12th, 2013, 03:53 AM
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Alison,
We flew via IST, we could not find a direct flight for that route. We left around 9am from Kayseri and got to Dalaman at 12:45, which I thought was not bad. We wanted to leave from Antalya, which offered better time connection via IST to our home airport.
In Kas we stayed at Hotel Gardenya, and in Cirali at Kibali. I don't think you can find anything upscale in Cirali, but I could be wrong. Did not get yet to post reviews on TA...hopefully soon.
We loved Kas and highly recommend it. If Gardenya appeals to you, ask for room 201. We had a higher floor, but you really don't need it, the views are wonderful from all floors, and 201 has a bigger terrace. Happy planning.
We flew via IST, we could not find a direct flight for that route. We left around 9am from Kayseri and got to Dalaman at 12:45, which I thought was not bad. We wanted to leave from Antalya, which offered better time connection via IST to our home airport.
In Kas we stayed at Hotel Gardenya, and in Cirali at Kibali. I don't think you can find anything upscale in Cirali, but I could be wrong. Did not get yet to post reviews on TA...hopefully soon.
We loved Kas and highly recommend it. If Gardenya appeals to you, ask for room 201. We had a higher floor, but you really don't need it, the views are wonderful from all floors, and 201 has a bigger terrace. Happy planning.
Nov 17th, 2013, 12:56 PM
#12
xyz99
Nice concise report & lovely pictures. Turkey is a great destination.
alison
We had a connection in SAW on Pegagsus & a connection in Ankara on Anadolujet on our jaunt & both went very smoothly. (see trip report for details)
Ian
Nice concise report & lovely pictures. Turkey is a great destination.
alison
We had a connection in SAW on Pegagsus & a connection in Ankara on Anadolujet on our jaunt & both went very smoothly. (see trip report for details)
Ian
Feb 16th, 2014, 05:05 PM
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We are travelling from Canada in October and are pretty much doing the same Itineraryas you except we are going to Cappadocia from Istanbul, then to Ephesus and then flying to Anatalya. driving to Kas and staying there for nine days before returning to Istanbul and home. Can you recommend your hotel in Cappadocia and Selcuk? Also we thought about renting a car from the airport and driving to Goreme and trying to see the sights .......would you advise this or would you recommend taking tours as you did and not bothering to rent a car.
Feb 20th, 2014, 06:07 PM
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In Selcuk we stayed at Hotel Bella - small rooms, squeaky floors, but adequate. We were there for a night only, and enjoyed a nice dinner at the hotel's restaurant upstairs.
In Cappadocia we stayed at Kelebek, which was amazing. Get a cave room.
If we were to do it again, we would probably rent a car, which is the way we normally travel. YOu have much more flexibility. Get a map, the GPS is good to find towns and hotels, but useless when it comes to the ruins around Antalya and Kas. Have a great trip!
In Cappadocia we stayed at Kelebek, which was amazing. Get a cave room.
If we were to do it again, we would probably rent a car, which is the way we normally travel. YOu have much more flexibility. Get a map, the GPS is good to find towns and hotels, but useless when it comes to the ruins around Antalya and Kas. Have a great trip!
Feb 25th, 2014, 06:41 PM
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I've looked at over 300 of your pictures and just want to say THANK YOU so much for posting them. They are awesome and I plan to finish looking at them this evening. I'm going to Turkey in May and after seeing your pics of Istanbul, I'm even more excited to go. I've also sent the link to your photos to my family as they are concerned about me going to Turkey and maybe your pics will calm them down about it. I'm not concerned at all. Thank you again... back to the photos!!
Feb 27th, 2014, 10:52 AM
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suesnothome,
We loved Turkey, and everybody I know who went there loved it too. I cannot comment on the entire country, but the areas we went to felt safe, and we did not encounter any problem. Glad you enjoyed the pictures, and hopefully your family will relax about you going. Have a great trip!
We loved Turkey, and everybody I know who went there loved it too. I cannot comment on the entire country, but the areas we went to felt safe, and we did not encounter any problem. Glad you enjoyed the pictures, and hopefully your family will relax about you going. Have a great trip!
Feb 28th, 2014, 08:05 AM
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xyz99, Thanks so much for your wonderful and informative report. We are just beginning to research Turkey and your report answered so many questions. Sounds like you had a GREAT time. And we will rethink the balloon ride. Thanks again!!!
Mar 1st, 2014, 12:28 PM
#20
Thank you for this interesting and useful report, xyz. Our May trip to Turkey is getting close enough to feel like a reality...and your report gives us good ideas and the wonderful expectation to follow in some of your footsteps...and to enjoy the country as you did.
