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Questions on Rhine/Mosel or Heidelburg region

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Old Dec 11th, 2007, 08:23 AM
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Questions on Rhine/Mosel or Heidelburg region

After what seems like many vacation changes (one long story after another) we finally have flights booked to Germany next April, flying into Frankfurt and out of Munich. My husband and I (28 and 30, respectively) also invited my 23 year old brother along for the journey. Basically we all love history, castles, exploring interesting towns and beautiful scenery. My husband and I have been to Europe many times; my brother has been to Rome once, with us, a few years ago and loved it so he is aching to go back to Europe.

I am thinking that the first three nights of our trip may be spent in the Rhine/Mosel river region, and I'm looking for a great base. My husband and I prefer smaller villages, and have looked into Beilstein in the past, but I'm worried that my brother may get bored so we are hoping to find a base that is large enough to "do things" in (meaning roam the town, have a few beers at night) and may have a little more activity at night. Right now I'm looking at Cochem, but as I have never been to this region I'm hoping for a little advice.

Since I am looking for a slightly larger town, we are also considering Heidelberg and it's surroundings. Again, please note that my brother is 23 and, while not a partier, likes a little action. I'm leaning more towards the Rhine and Mosel, as the area looks interesting (lots of castles...something my brother is definitely interested in) and beautiful, but admittingly I don't know much about Heidelburg and the Neckar valley. Can someone tell me how this area compares to the Rhine/Mosel area and if you think it would be a better base?

Thank you for your help!
Tracy
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Old Dec 11th, 2007, 08:23 AM
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Oops...I think that is supposed to be Heidelberg...sorry!!

Tracy
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Old Dec 11th, 2007, 08:39 AM
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Hi Tracy,
We did a similar trip just this past Oct. Maybe our trip report and photos could be of help...

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=35089110

Paul
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Old Dec 11th, 2007, 08:49 AM
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Paul,

Thank you for your report link! Your trip does indeed sound very similar to ours. We will be headed to Nuremberg (we spent a few nights in Nuremberg and Rothenburg a few years back, and both DH and brother have interest in WWII) and then onto the Berchtesgaden area. We spent 5 nights in Schonau a few years ago and it was delightful, although with my brother we may end up staying in Salzburg instead. We loved Ramsau as well, and ate at a lovely Inn perched high up in the mountains one night that was unforgettable.

A few questions for you: how was Cochem? Is it a very large or lively town? Are there many restaurants?

Thank you again! It sounds like you had a fabulous trip!

Tracy
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Old Dec 11th, 2007, 09:11 AM
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"Is it a very large or lively town? Are there many restaurants?"

Althugh we loved the Haus Lipmann in Beilstein, we also liked Cochem. It certainly would have more to do than Beilstein, althugh if you stay on a weekend the place behind the hotel has music, beer and some other alcoholic beverages.

Here are a couple of suggestions from my trip report; one on how to get to Burg Eltz; the other on a place to eat (and maybe stay) in Cochem. Have fun!

"I had read in Steves' book not to follow the signs to Burg Eltz, because those were longer hikes. Instead we ignored the Eltz signs in Moselkern and followed the signs to Munstermaifeld as he had suggested. We kept the faith because it seemed like we were headed in the wrong direction.

However, in about seven kilometers we came to a T in the road. Signs to Burg Eltz were seen again. We made a left and went though Wierscheim and from that town's exit sign it was only 2km to the Burg Eltz Upper parking facility. It was an easy 10 -15 minute walk down to the castle from there.

It was then on to explore a little of the Cochem. The part of Cochem directly on the river is pretty touristy so we went up a few alleys and found a nice outdoor patio to have lunch. It was part of the Hotel Lohspicher, and we chatted with the owner who also served us.

The special was Zweibelkuchen (a delicious onion pie) that we had with a glass of young wine called Federweinber. It was great. The inside of the restaurant looked very nice as did the hotel. We might stay there if we ever come back."

Hope this helps.


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Old Dec 11th, 2007, 09:17 AM
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You should consider staying for a time in Trier. It's in the Mosel valley but it's more lively than some of the smaller towns. It's also a good base for exploring the region and it has some fascinating Roman ruins from the time it was Constantine's capital.
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Old Dec 11th, 2007, 09:25 AM
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Another place we really liked was Bernkastel-Kues. Half-timbered buildings, cute restaurants and lovely town square.

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Old Dec 11th, 2007, 11:52 AM
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Thank you both so much for your help. You've given me something to think about and a few more places to research!

Anybody have any thoughts on Heidelberg and it's surrounding region? I did a little research and I'm intrigued but I would love to hear from someone who has been to both regions.

Thanks!
Tracy
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Old Dec 11th, 2007, 02:22 PM
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Hi, tcreath -

I have been to most of the places you are considering, but I have been to Heidelberg, and I loved it! The castle there is incredibly evocative, and the woods surrounding the Neckar are lovely. I would imagine you can take a boat to the Neckarsteinach to see other castles - you could when I was there. Heidelberg is also home to a very old university, so it has the lively activities that accompany college life.

Hope that helps!
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Old Dec 11th, 2007, 02:38 PM
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Hi again Tracy,
For towns along the Mosel, I'd suggest Cochem as the most "lively" town to stay in. Plenty of restaurants, cafes, stores, shops, etc. Bernkastel-Kues would be my second choice (similar to Cochem) although it's further from Burg Eltz and Marksburg castle on the Rhein. Bernkastel-Kues is very close to Trier though. Beilstein is beautiful, but it's very small and not nearly as busy (touristy) as Cochem at all. We had dinner in Beilstein one night and it's only a 15 to 20 min. drive from Cochem. Zell is also a nice town, yet very small. Just a recommendation... if you stay on the Mosel, see Burg Eltz. It really is an amazing castle!

Paul
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Old Dec 11th, 2007, 04:45 PM
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Tracy, we have stayed in Beilstein and Bernkastel-Kues on the Mosel and in Bacharach on the Rhine.

Beilstein is on a beautiful part of the river but really is pretty small. We visited Cochem and it is much busier as others have said.

We really enjoyed Bernkastel-Kues on our visit this past September. It's also on a pretty part of the river and there are some great restaurants and shops. We stayed at the Hotel Binz right in the pedestrian area.

We also visited Trier. It is a much larger city with lots to see and do.

Tough decision as there are so many neat places!

Can't tell you much about Heidelberg because we didn't stop there. Instead we stayed in Bad Wimpfen which we totally enjoyed, but it is also very small. However, the Neckertal area is lovely and you are close to Speyers, Dinkelsbuehl and Schwaebisch Hall among other neat towns.

If you want to read any of our several trip reports on Germany, go to www.webshots.com and do a search for dkubiak.
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Old Dec 11th, 2007, 05:42 PM
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Hi Tracy,

I'm glad to see recs for Trier since that is what I thought of when I read your post it has quite a bit of Roman history (which if I recall your reports correctly you and your husband enjoy?). Here's a link on some of the Roman highlights to get you started: http://www.worldheritagesite.org/sites/trier.html

We had a car and parked in the owner's spot for a small additional fee and made day trips to Metz, Luxembourg, and the usual suspects along the Moselle.

Here's an old post which includes information on a great apartment (we booked a studio but ended up in a two bed/one bath that could work for you). The owner is lovely and the price couldn't be beat.

Good luck. We loved Trier and hope to return one day.

Maureen
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Author: mvor
Date: 01/23/2006, 07:04 pm
We spent 4 nights in Trier this past November. We took daytrips to Luxembourg and Metz, France; a drive around the Moselle; and a day in Trier exploring the Roman Ruins and the town.

We rented an apartment (Ferienwohnung An der Schellenmauer) that we found on the Trier tourism site:

http://tinyurl.com/cjc4s

The apartment cost 40€ and is located about five minutes from the old town. We booked directly with the owner, Mrs. Baro, not the tourist office.

Mrs. Baro is in the process of learning English so communication was a little difficult since we don't speak German but she was very helpful and the apt. was immaculate and well stocked.

(We actually ended up in a different apt. than the one shown on the site which is a studio. We never really learned why they upgraded us but we appreciated the extra space.)

Ferienwohnung An der Schellenmauer
Große Eulenpfütz 5
54290 Trier, Germany

Tel.: +49 651 76542 + 40887
Fax: +49 651 74799
e-mail: [email protected]

Best of luck!
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Old Dec 12th, 2007, 07:02 AM
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I can't thank you all enough for your helpful replies!! I just love fodors...

Okay, so now I am trying to decide between Cochem, Trier, Bernkastel-kues and Heidelberg, but I'm glad I have some places to research. All look lovely and I'm sure would make excellent bases.

mvor, thank you so much for the apartment link! You are absolutely right...my husband and I (and my brother) are history buffs and particularly love Roman history. We know that we definitely want to visit Trier, but to be honest I never thought about staying there. I will definitely check it out, and the apartment looks great! That's one thing that I forgot to mention; we are looking at apartments with two bedrooms, as my brother is on a budget and overall we just prefer the apartment exprerience.

Betty, thank you for your link! I know from reading past posts that you are a big fan of Germany and that we seem to enjoy a lot of the same areas in Bavaria so I will enjoy looking at your pictures!

Thanks again everyone!
Tracy
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Old Dec 12th, 2007, 05:56 PM
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Cochem is a wonderful town for a Mosel base, the largest of the villages with the most to do, and ideally situated for daytrips, but it will NOT be very busy in April. Plan on some TV watching and evenings in quiet pubs.

Trier is a small city with much more to do but not anywhere near as scenic as Cochem.

Frau Mattes at Loehrstrasse 34, a couple of blocks up from the Markplatz and the Lohspeicher mentioned above, offers a 2-br apartment on two floors with balcony for around 40/night. Lovely place.
tel 02671/5448

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Old Dec 13th, 2007, 05:47 AM
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Russ, thank you for your thoughts. Scenery does make a difference, as we are looking for a scenic place to base ourselves.

I've come to the conclusion that my brother just needs to suck it up and realize that most of the towns along the Rhine/Mosel are not going to be happening places in April! I think he is thinking about Rome, where everyone eats late and the city is bustling at all hours of the night. And to compare that to Germany is absurd and I told him so...this will be a completely different vacation from what he experienced in Rome. And since we are using our FF miles to pay for his flights he isn't allowed to complain too much!

With all of that being said, we are still trying to decide between Cochem and Heidelberg.

Thanks everyone!
Tracy
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Old Dec 13th, 2007, 05:58 AM
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Heidelberg is a great town, in my opinion - there is every imaginable type of food and I've never had a bad meal. There are tons of bars that cater to all ages - it's extremely walkable. And, it's extremely easy to get on and off the A5 and the A6. April is a gorgeous time to be there.

Now, Trier is also a great town - the history there is amazing (as it is in Heidelberg). Do your research on the town before you go OR pick up one of the books about the town when you get there. There are a ton of ruins and and very very worth seeing. Lot's of restaurants and bars there, too.
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Old Dec 13th, 2007, 07:44 AM
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I think we will visit Trier regardless of where we stay because we are into Roman history and really want to visit the city.

I am just so torn between Heidelberg and Cochem!! Both sound great. I think that at this point I'm leaning a little more towards Heidelberg for my brother, even though I personally would probably choose Cochem.

Tracy
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Old Dec 13th, 2007, 09:32 AM
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Since you are so torn, I thought I would put in my two cents for Heidelberg. My father-in-law lived right outside of Heidelberg, so it was our base for three weeks while we visited. I loved the castles and the area. It escaped bombing, through a great story, and has wonderful buildings to see. As said before, the history is very interesting. I would definitely reccomend Hiedelberg and the surrounding area. Where ever you choose, have a great time!
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Old Dec 13th, 2007, 02:59 PM
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Tracy,

I see that once again, we will follow in your travel footsteps! This is an area of Germany I haven't had a chance to visit and am looking forward to it!

My middle child (Daughter aged 21) has decided to do a study abroad semester at the University in Trier. I believe that requires a visit!!!

I have no advice, but I am avidly reading all of your responses because I am making some of the same decisions. We'll be in the area beginning in early May!

Happy travels, and let us know your final plans!
Thanks
H
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Old Dec 13th, 2007, 04:15 PM
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Tracy, you are a good sister and since you get to travel so much more than your brother I'd follow your instincts and stay in H. I hope you have a terrific trip regardless of what you decide and I look forward to your report!

(Like Betty, we also enjoyed Bad Wimpfen and Dinkelsbuehl -- decisions, decisions.)
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