Provence Itinerary is NOT coming along
Feb 27th, 2006, 01:49 PM
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Provence Itinerary is NOT coming along
OK, I'm having trouble planning our Provence trip in June and I am starting to get frantic. My priorities are Luberon Hill Towns, Aix, Cotes du Rhone wine route, lavender, and Avignon and possibly Pont Gard and Nimes. I have read so many trip reports and Stu's suggestions, looked at so many hotel and B&B web pages, guidebooks, and my head is starting to spin! We have 8 nights. Arrive on a Friday from Lyon, rent car in Avignon (? good place to rent and return?) We would like to keep our accommodations under 100 euros per night.
So far I have:
Fri. - arrive from Lyon, rent car
Fri - Chambres Les Trois Figuiers (3 nights), Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. I want to do the Market there on Sunday but what to do on Saturday? And where to head on Monday.
Saturday
Sunday Isle-sur-la-Sorgue market
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday - possibly return car to Avignon and spend the night there.
Saturday - leave for Paris
Thanks in advance for your help.
So far I have:
Fri. - arrive from Lyon, rent car
Fri - Chambres Les Trois Figuiers (3 nights), Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. I want to do the Market there on Sunday but what to do on Saturday? And where to head on Monday.
Saturday
Sunday Isle-sur-la-Sorgue market
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday - possibly return car to Avignon and spend the night there.
Saturday - leave for Paris
Thanks in advance for your help.
Feb 27th, 2006, 03:55 PM
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Ronda
You have plenty of time to explore Provence slowly. Here is what I would do:
Friday - Arrive at the Avignon TGV station, pick up a car, and drive to l’Isle sur la Sorgue. Explore the town on non-market day. If there is time left in the day, head over to Fountaine de Vaucluse and explore this village – it’s a little touristy, but a walk along the river to the (non-functioning) Fountaine is quite refreshing. If you still have time left in the day, head north to Pernes, get a walking itinerary from the tourist office, and either take the short or the longer walk through this town with 30 or so fountains. You will only be able to see all three of these villages if you arrive early in the day from Lyon, or if you choose to not explore l’Isle sur la Sorgue today (which might be the best idea – you will see enough of this town if you stay there)
Saturday – Explore the Luberon villages, Senanque Abbey, and the beautiful Luberon Valley. Use the driving route that’s in my itinerary. It will be market day in Apt, so plan your visit to Saignon so you will arrive after about 3:00 when the traffic has lessened.
Sunday – market in l’Isle sur la Sorgue. Hit the outdoor market first, the flea market antiques second, the permanent “serious” antiques third, and then have lunch there. In the afternoon take the Lavender Route that’s in my itinerary. Return to your hotel via the Gorges de la Nesque. Don’t visit any major towns like Avignon, because the stores will be closed.
Monday – go to the market in Bedoin – it’s a smaller market than l’Isle sur la Sorgue, and will have a different feel to it. After the market, drive around Mt Ventoux - head east on the pretty D974, and then up & over Mt Ventoux. At Malaucene, head north towards Vaison, but stop in Crestet & visit this cute town on foot. Then on to Vaison, but get there after 2:30 when the stores open (most will be close in the AM). Visit the Roman ruins, and also the medieval section of town (see my itinerary). After Vaison, head west and drive through the vineyards to Seguret (visit), then by Sablet, then on to Gigondas. Stop in Gigondas at the wine place I mention in my itinerary to sample some of the better wines from this region. After Gigondas, head south & visit Beaumes de Venice – this is an interesting town (a little off the tourist route), and sample some of their sweet wine. Then head back to your hotel.
Tuesday - Check out of your hotel, and head to Beaucastel winery for a tour & tasting – reserve several days in advance. The drive there is not particularly scenic (until you get to within a few Ks of the winery), so take the fast roads. You will see lots of the famous rocks that the vines are planted it. After the winery tour, hop on the freeway at exit #22 heading north, pay for your short trip at the tool booth, and immediately get back on the freeway (A9) heading south towards Nimes. Get off at Exit # 23 & visit the Pont du Gard. Stay overnight 2 nights in Uzes. You may want to check into the hotel first, and visit the Pont later when the crowds have died down a little. Uzes is one of my favorite towns. Visit Castillion du Gard if you have the time.
Wednesday – head north on either the freeway, or the more scenic N86 north to Pont St Esprit. This is the starting place for visiting the pretty Gorges de l’Ardeche. Also make sure you visit the fabulous Aven d’Orgnac cave with stalactites & mites. Return to the hotel in/near Uzes.
Thursday. Head south & then east to St Remy.
I have to head off to the gym now – I’ll see if I can finish this suggestion tomorrow.
Stu Dudley
You have plenty of time to explore Provence slowly. Here is what I would do:
Friday - Arrive at the Avignon TGV station, pick up a car, and drive to l’Isle sur la Sorgue. Explore the town on non-market day. If there is time left in the day, head over to Fountaine de Vaucluse and explore this village – it’s a little touristy, but a walk along the river to the (non-functioning) Fountaine is quite refreshing. If you still have time left in the day, head north to Pernes, get a walking itinerary from the tourist office, and either take the short or the longer walk through this town with 30 or so fountains. You will only be able to see all three of these villages if you arrive early in the day from Lyon, or if you choose to not explore l’Isle sur la Sorgue today (which might be the best idea – you will see enough of this town if you stay there)
Saturday – Explore the Luberon villages, Senanque Abbey, and the beautiful Luberon Valley. Use the driving route that’s in my itinerary. It will be market day in Apt, so plan your visit to Saignon so you will arrive after about 3:00 when the traffic has lessened.
Sunday – market in l’Isle sur la Sorgue. Hit the outdoor market first, the flea market antiques second, the permanent “serious” antiques third, and then have lunch there. In the afternoon take the Lavender Route that’s in my itinerary. Return to your hotel via the Gorges de la Nesque. Don’t visit any major towns like Avignon, because the stores will be closed.
Monday – go to the market in Bedoin – it’s a smaller market than l’Isle sur la Sorgue, and will have a different feel to it. After the market, drive around Mt Ventoux - head east on the pretty D974, and then up & over Mt Ventoux. At Malaucene, head north towards Vaison, but stop in Crestet & visit this cute town on foot. Then on to Vaison, but get there after 2:30 when the stores open (most will be close in the AM). Visit the Roman ruins, and also the medieval section of town (see my itinerary). After Vaison, head west and drive through the vineyards to Seguret (visit), then by Sablet, then on to Gigondas. Stop in Gigondas at the wine place I mention in my itinerary to sample some of the better wines from this region. After Gigondas, head south & visit Beaumes de Venice – this is an interesting town (a little off the tourist route), and sample some of their sweet wine. Then head back to your hotel.
Tuesday - Check out of your hotel, and head to Beaucastel winery for a tour & tasting – reserve several days in advance. The drive there is not particularly scenic (until you get to within a few Ks of the winery), so take the fast roads. You will see lots of the famous rocks that the vines are planted it. After the winery tour, hop on the freeway at exit #22 heading north, pay for your short trip at the tool booth, and immediately get back on the freeway (A9) heading south towards Nimes. Get off at Exit # 23 & visit the Pont du Gard. Stay overnight 2 nights in Uzes. You may want to check into the hotel first, and visit the Pont later when the crowds have died down a little. Uzes is one of my favorite towns. Visit Castillion du Gard if you have the time.
Wednesday – head north on either the freeway, or the more scenic N86 north to Pont St Esprit. This is the starting place for visiting the pretty Gorges de l’Ardeche. Also make sure you visit the fabulous Aven d’Orgnac cave with stalactites & mites. Return to the hotel in/near Uzes.
Thursday. Head south & then east to St Remy.
I have to head off to the gym now – I’ll see if I can finish this suggestion tomorrow.
Stu Dudley
Feb 27th, 2006, 04:00 PM
#3
I say relax, look at a map see where you are staying and how far you want to go each day to explore a place. We don't mind driving a few hours to a new place, others do.v You can also return your car in at Avignon and fly back to Paris as we did on year just for the experience.
Feb 28th, 2006, 08:48 AM
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Provence (Cont.)
First a few remarks about what I posted yesterday.
If you arrive at the Avignon TGV station, drive to l’Isle sur la Sorgue, visit Fountaine de Vaucluse and Pernes – you will not be driving through very scenic areas. As you leave the TGV station, the ring-road around Avignon is loaded with 3-4 story low-cost housing, office buildings, and a lot of other pretty ugly commerce. This drive to l’Isle sur la Sorgue isn’t much prettier. The D31 and D938 that links l’Isle sur la Sorgue with Pernes & Carpentras is kinda like El Camino Real here in the SF Bay Area – loaded with box stores, car dealerships, grocery stores, etc – not the “image” of Provence you came to see. East of these roads, however, it is extremely scenic. Perhaps when you arrive on Saturday, you should head over to Gordes, see the magnificent view of this village from the lookout (see my itinerary), head over to Oppede-leVieux (not the more modern village of Oppede) for some more of the Luberon. Then back to Fountain de Vaucluse to walk along the river. Follow the route that’s in my itinerary for Gordes to Oppede.
If you stay in Uzes, in ‘03 there was an extremely large sunflower field on the D981 northwest of Uzes, just before Serviers. In ’04, this field was replaced by sunflowers – which seems to be occurring quite frequently in Provence. I don’t know if this is crop rotation, but you might drive to Serviers to see this huge sunflower field – if it still exists. Also in Serviers (a dump of a village) is one of my two favorite restaurants in Provence – les Oliviers ( http://www.l-olivier.fr/ ).
Thursday – Leave Uzes early and visit Avignon. After crossing the Rhone, don’t worry if you make a wrong turn – I’ve done that several times. There is a medieval wall all around Avignon, and you just need to follow the wall till you find a place to park – I always park at the train station parking lot. Take the two walking tours described in the Green Michelin Guide. After Avignon, head south to St Remy & check into your hotel. There is no need to visit St Remy now, you’ll have plenty of time to wander around early in the morning, or later in the day (when there are fewer day-trippers). Visit Les Baux first. However, I would not do this till after around 4:00PM when some of the crowds have left. If you get to this area before then, take the drive around the Alpilles that’s described in my itinerary. Visit Eygalieres (see my itinerary). After les Baux, visit Glanum and then back to St Remy for an evening walk-around.
Friday – Visit Arles in the morning. Take the walking tour outlined in the Green Guide. After Arles, visit the chateau in Tarascon (the town itself is nothing special, compared to other towns in Provence). After Tarascon, drive towards St Etienne du Gres and visit the Les Olivades seconds outlet (see my itinerary for details). You husband can sit on the “husband bench” just outside the store on the lawn next to the creek. Return to St Remy.
Saturday – Time to leave. The TGV station is only about 30-40 mins away. Returning the car is a breeze.
Possible modifications to this schedule. If you don’t want to move from hotel to hotel so much, don’t stay near Uzes – stay in St Remy and extra day, and Avignon the last night. Visit Uzes, Pont du Gard, & Castillion from St Remy. The Gorges de l’Ardeche and Aven d’Orgnac may have to be skipped because they are too far away – too bad, both are quite different sites than you will normally see in Provence – it would be a nice change-of-pace. If you return the car on Friday like you suggested in your post, you may not save any rental costs – this depends on the time of day you return the car.
Cassis – lots of people want to see the coast, and head for Cassis. Since you live in the SF Bay Area, I don’t think the coast will be that much of a big ticket item for you, as it would be for a mid-westerner.
Stu Dudley
First a few remarks about what I posted yesterday.
If you arrive at the Avignon TGV station, drive to l’Isle sur la Sorgue, visit Fountaine de Vaucluse and Pernes – you will not be driving through very scenic areas. As you leave the TGV station, the ring-road around Avignon is loaded with 3-4 story low-cost housing, office buildings, and a lot of other pretty ugly commerce. This drive to l’Isle sur la Sorgue isn’t much prettier. The D31 and D938 that links l’Isle sur la Sorgue with Pernes & Carpentras is kinda like El Camino Real here in the SF Bay Area – loaded with box stores, car dealerships, grocery stores, etc – not the “image” of Provence you came to see. East of these roads, however, it is extremely scenic. Perhaps when you arrive on Saturday, you should head over to Gordes, see the magnificent view of this village from the lookout (see my itinerary), head over to Oppede-leVieux (not the more modern village of Oppede) for some more of the Luberon. Then back to Fountain de Vaucluse to walk along the river. Follow the route that’s in my itinerary for Gordes to Oppede.
If you stay in Uzes, in ‘03 there was an extremely large sunflower field on the D981 northwest of Uzes, just before Serviers. In ’04, this field was replaced by sunflowers – which seems to be occurring quite frequently in Provence. I don’t know if this is crop rotation, but you might drive to Serviers to see this huge sunflower field – if it still exists. Also in Serviers (a dump of a village) is one of my two favorite restaurants in Provence – les Oliviers ( http://www.l-olivier.fr/ ).
Thursday – Leave Uzes early and visit Avignon. After crossing the Rhone, don’t worry if you make a wrong turn – I’ve done that several times. There is a medieval wall all around Avignon, and you just need to follow the wall till you find a place to park – I always park at the train station parking lot. Take the two walking tours described in the Green Michelin Guide. After Avignon, head south to St Remy & check into your hotel. There is no need to visit St Remy now, you’ll have plenty of time to wander around early in the morning, or later in the day (when there are fewer day-trippers). Visit Les Baux first. However, I would not do this till after around 4:00PM when some of the crowds have left. If you get to this area before then, take the drive around the Alpilles that’s described in my itinerary. Visit Eygalieres (see my itinerary). After les Baux, visit Glanum and then back to St Remy for an evening walk-around.
Friday – Visit Arles in the morning. Take the walking tour outlined in the Green Guide. After Arles, visit the chateau in Tarascon (the town itself is nothing special, compared to other towns in Provence). After Tarascon, drive towards St Etienne du Gres and visit the Les Olivades seconds outlet (see my itinerary for details). You husband can sit on the “husband bench” just outside the store on the lawn next to the creek. Return to St Remy.
Saturday – Time to leave. The TGV station is only about 30-40 mins away. Returning the car is a breeze.
Possible modifications to this schedule. If you don’t want to move from hotel to hotel so much, don’t stay near Uzes – stay in St Remy and extra day, and Avignon the last night. Visit Uzes, Pont du Gard, & Castillion from St Remy. The Gorges de l’Ardeche and Aven d’Orgnac may have to be skipped because they are too far away – too bad, both are quite different sites than you will normally see in Provence – it would be a nice change-of-pace. If you return the car on Friday like you suggested in your post, you may not save any rental costs – this depends on the time of day you return the car.
Cassis – lots of people want to see the coast, and head for Cassis. Since you live in the SF Bay Area, I don’t think the coast will be that much of a big ticket item for you, as it would be for a mid-westerner.
Stu Dudley
Feb 28th, 2006, 11:54 AM
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Thank you Stu! These are excellent suggestions. Unfortunately, we won't be arriving in Avignon until the afternoon on Friday. We have been to Arles (stayed there when we were traveling by train between Nice and Paris a couple of years ago) but we do want to go to Aix. You have given me something to work with.
cigalechanta, you are right; I just can't envision how long it takes to get from place to place.
Thanks again.
cigalechanta, you are right; I just can't envision how long it takes to get from place to place.
Thanks again.
Feb 28th, 2006, 12:22 PM
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Don't miss Gordes as a cool lunch stop. It is perched on a hill. Really cool.
And we got our car from this site. I highly recommend them for price and service.
http://www.fastcarhire.com
And we got our car from this site. I highly recommend them for price and service.
http://www.fastcarhire.com
Feb 28th, 2006, 12:41 PM
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I'm working on a similar trip Ronda and I hope you don't mind if I ask Stu or Cigalechanta a couple of questions.
My north base is Chateau Talaud near Cavaillon since we've been to the Luberon villages & Avignon twice. Is there any great wine village/town to visit in the north?
Cigachalant: Could you describe the room in Hotel General Entraingues in UZES. We passed through its lobby in 2003 but can't remember much details. Any gripe? Would you stay there again?
My north base is Chateau Talaud near Cavaillon since we've been to the Luberon villages & Avignon twice. Is there any great wine village/town to visit in the north?
Cigachalant: Could you describe the room in Hotel General Entraingues in UZES. We passed through its lobby in 2003 but can't remember much details. Any gripe? Would you stay there again?
Feb 28th, 2006, 01:36 PM
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Gads - you are near the heart of the wine growing region - Chateauneuf du Papes is the most famous. Also there is Gigondas, Seguret, Beaumes de Venise, Sablet, Vacqueras, Cairanne, and a little farther away is the Rose center of Tavel. Here is a paragraph from my Provence Itinerary:
Now we’re off to wine country. See “Dentelles” in the Michelin green guide. Follow the route in the guide from Vaison to Seguret* (explore), Sablet, and then Gigondas. These are famous wine villages. This is a beautiful drive. There is a shop in Gigondas that will let you sample & buy many of the local wines. It’s in the square in the center of town, on the left side of the road. The store called “Caveau du Gigondas” and you can walk in & see the selections you can taste. After Gigondas, head to Vacqueyras then Beaumes des Venise. You can taste the sweet Muscat wine in many shops in this town. There is a co-op called “vigurons de Beaumes de Venise” where you can taste & buy wine – it’s just west of town a little. The co-op is on the D7 at the round-about (look for the two big hands in the center of the round-about).
If you want an excellent tour of one of the famous Chateauneuf du Pape wineries, book an English tour at Beaucastel – perhaps the most famous winery. Phone 04 90 70 70 60. As I remember, the tour is about 1˝ hours and it’s quite informative. Book a couple of days ahead.
Getting to Beaucastel is a little difficult. I’ve wandered back & forth a few times – even after getting there OK once. Beaucastel is just south & a little east of Orange. I think I got there by going to Jonquieres then traveling on the road that is a bridge over the A7 just to the west & near the freeway exit. Follow the signs to Beaucastel.
After Beaucastel, head south on the D68 to Chateauneuf du Pape. If you didn’t visit Beaucastel, you can sample wine at any of the dozens of tasting rooms in town. It’s a little more intimidating than tasting in the Napa Valley, however. You sit down at a table and it’s more of a one-on-one event.
Now we’re off to wine country. See “Dentelles” in the Michelin green guide. Follow the route in the guide from Vaison to Seguret* (explore), Sablet, and then Gigondas. These are famous wine villages. This is a beautiful drive. There is a shop in Gigondas that will let you sample & buy many of the local wines. It’s in the square in the center of town, on the left side of the road. The store called “Caveau du Gigondas” and you can walk in & see the selections you can taste. After Gigondas, head to Vacqueyras then Beaumes des Venise. You can taste the sweet Muscat wine in many shops in this town. There is a co-op called “vigurons de Beaumes de Venise” where you can taste & buy wine – it’s just west of town a little. The co-op is on the D7 at the round-about (look for the two big hands in the center of the round-about).
If you want an excellent tour of one of the famous Chateauneuf du Pape wineries, book an English tour at Beaucastel – perhaps the most famous winery. Phone 04 90 70 70 60. As I remember, the tour is about 1˝ hours and it’s quite informative. Book a couple of days ahead.
Getting to Beaucastel is a little difficult. I’ve wandered back & forth a few times – even after getting there OK once. Beaucastel is just south & a little east of Orange. I think I got there by going to Jonquieres then traveling on the road that is a bridge over the A7 just to the west & near the freeway exit. Follow the signs to Beaucastel.
After Beaucastel, head south on the D68 to Chateauneuf du Pape. If you didn’t visit Beaucastel, you can sample wine at any of the dozens of tasting rooms in town. It’s a little more intimidating than tasting in the Napa Valley, however. You sit down at a table and it’s more of a one-on-one event.
Feb 28th, 2006, 01:53 PM
#13
Dax, our room was very nice, we had booked dinner there and when we arrived
they informed us dinner was not available due to a wedding. They should have emailed us but it turned out for the best, a fabulous dinner at trois Salons and new friends!
they informed us dinner was not available due to a wedding. They should have emailed us but it turned out for the best, a fabulous dinner at trois Salons and new friends!
Feb 28th, 2006, 04:40 PM
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DAX, I was so pleased to see that you're staying at Chateau Talaud! We spent several days there some years ago and loved it and its proprietors, but it rarely comes up when people talk of places to stay in Provence. Lots of great wine in the area as Stu has detailed, and Chateau Talaud makes its own as well.
As for Uzès, I second cigalechanta's recommendation of Les Trois Salons for a meal; great food and a lovely old building and garden.
If you're thinking of staying somewhere other than Uzès down that way, I recommend Le Jardin Secret in Nimes--very small, personal, proprietors on site, and gorgeous.
As for Uzès, I second cigalechanta's recommendation of Les Trois Salons for a meal; great food and a lovely old building and garden.
If you're thinking of staying somewhere other than Uzès down that way, I recommend Le Jardin Secret in Nimes--very small, personal, proprietors on site, and gorgeous.
Feb 28th, 2006, 05:01 PM
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Thanks everyone for your great input. It's so great to find so many Provence experts & travellers on this board. I'd like to ask more info but I should really start my own thread later instead of hijacking Ronda's, sorry Ronda.
Mar 1st, 2006, 01:09 PM
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Have been to Provence several times and would definitely suggest a visit to Arles, as well as wine tasting in the Avignon region if you are into it. If you like markets, catch the ones in Aiy- they are incredible. I would also look into chez bru-- it is one of my favorite restaurants in the world and is in a really sleepy town close to st remy (of which I wasnt into). You can also stay at the hotel there and the owners are fabulous. 2 michelin stars helps.
