Please Do Not Read -- Songdoc's Trip Report of North Wales
Mar 21st, 2010, 03:39 PM
#1
Original Poster
Please Do Not Read -- Songdoc's Trip Report of North Wales
North Wales is my new secret and I’m feeling thoroughly smug about having found such a wonderful place that so few people seem to visit.
I was NOT looking forward to the 4 – 5 hour drive from Bisley, Stroud—in the Cotswolds—to North Wales. We decided to make lots of stops and the first one was in Tewkesbury. Good choice.
With its black & white timbered Tudor buildings Tewkesbury felt quite unique from the other Cotswolds towns we’d visited. We took a relaxing stroll along the picturesque river walk into the town center where we visited the Abbey. There was a service going on so I only took a quick peek inside. The outside was more impressive. Under other circumstances I’d have been raving about the Abbey. But I think I’ve seen enough Abbeys and Cathedrals to last me quite a while—and after Gloucester Cathedral, everything else came in a distant second place.
Once we hit the M5 I couldn’t believe how fast the traffic was moving. At one point I glanced at the speedometer and noticed that I was going 92 mph—and traffic was passing me! (Yes, that’s miles—not kilometers.)
I’d looked forward to the drive through Shropshire as I’d heard it was exceptionally beautiful—but from the motorway it looked much like the scenery in the Cotswolds. But it seemed that the moment we crossed the border into Wales the scenery became dramatically more beautiful. One of our many photo stops was at the beautiful Cellyn Reservoir. The scenery was so pretty that I didn’t mind the long drive—and that’s not like me!
Our cottage, Tan-y-Clogwen –built in 1640—at Felin Parc (in Tan-lan) was everything we could have hoped for. It’s within the Snowdonia National Park region—and its riverside setting, with snow-capped mountains as a backdrop, was stunning. We spent our first morning walking along the river and snapping photos of the waterfalls and mountains.
Then … on to Portmerion. It was fantastic—quite otherworldly—in an almost Disney-esque/fairytale fashion. The setting was as magical as the colorful, Italianate buildings, fountains, and pools. We took the 30 minute coastal walk – and with the tide being out, it was some of the most unusual, exquisite scenery I’d ever seen. This is a “must see.”
Then, on to Harlech Castle. Our first glimpse of this enormous imposing castle was breathtaking. We fed a machine our 3 pounds to park and I took photo after photo before heading to the ticket booth … where we learned that the castle—and ALL castles—were closed for 48 hours due to a strike by the civil servants!!! AGGHHH. Déjà vu. I’d spent a week in Paris many years ago—and never set foot in one museum (including the Louvre) due to a strike.
We decided to walk through Harlech and then down to the beach. The town itself has little to offer other than the castle. It was a long walk to the beach—at least thirty minutes. We could have driven, but enjoyed the views of the castle; the mountains; the golfers; and the ocean in the distance. Harlech beach was quite large and very pleasant—but not a “dramatic” coastline. The walk back up the hill to the castle car park had somehow become considerably steeper since we’d left.
On the way back to the cottage we stopped in Porthmadog—a busy little town with little charm, but lots of shopping—and an actual supermarket! Picked up provisions and headed back to the cottage to have tea with crackers and cheese on a picnic bench overlooking the river and mountains while the sinking sun glowed on the hillsides. Bliss.
A friend’s sister & brother-in-law who live near Harlech met us the next morning and gave us quite the full-day tour. It was yet another gorgeous day, with brilliant, clear blue skies and we started with a hike from the car park at Aberglaslyn that led us along a river with stunning views. (Help! I’m running out of superlatives!) We walked to Beddgelert where, at the suggestion of a Fodorite, we had a tasty lunch at Lynn’s and a short look around the charming town, then hiked back to the car. Got some fantastic photos. Just before the car park we met a sheep with the most adorable little, snow white baby lamb. It melted my heart.
I couldn’t begin to tell you where else we went that day—because the names are utterly unpronounceable—but every turn brought more gorgeous vistas. One back lane brought us out to the ruins of a slate mill. I thought it was hilarious that the sign simply stated “Ruins.” The setting was beautiful and I would have thought it had been a castle. Loved it.
Our next stop was Melin Wlan Brynkir woolen mill where we watched the old looms weave their magic—and browsed in the shop. The woven goods were quite unique and absolutely beautiful. I agonized over whether to bring home one of the woven bedspreads—but decided against spending more than $300 for what would be destined to become a cat bed and scratching area.
Then on to Criccieth—a charming seaside town with more stunning views and its Welsh castle (as opposed to most of the castles that were “English”—built by Edward I) looking down from its clifftop perch. We had tea at Cadwalader’s, quite literally overlooking the sea, then a stroll for some photo ops along the beach.
I was surprised at how many people were speaking the Welsh language. It sounded Scandinavian/Germanic—with lots of “throat clearing” sounds. I enjoyed hearing it.
Late that night DP woke up violently ill. I’ll spare you the disgusting details—but the following day was spent with him in bed (or the bathroom)—and me hovering and worrying. Our trip to the Llyn Peninsula and Caernarfon would have to wait until another time.
We learned that a 24-hour vomiting virus was prevalent—and hoped it would indeed pass that quickly. Sick or not, we’d have to leave our perfect little cottage to drive to Liverpool where I’d be teaching a class.
Thankfully, DP was feeling considerably better when it was time to leave. It was yet another gorgeous day with blue, sun-filled skies and we decided to drive through Caernarfon—which was almost on the way (depending on which route we chose). The castle (from the 1200’s) was massive and very impressive—and the history is incredible.
It was amazing to walk in the footsteps where Edward I lived. Edward II was born there; Prince Charles’ coronation as Prince of Wales was held there; and I learned countless other interesting tidbits. We climbed tower after tower (Oy, my aching legs) and the views were fantastic. The town, with the remnants of its Medieval walls—was a nice surprise. It was quite charming and very atmospheric.
Then back on the road to Liverpool. Once we entered the M5 motorway the traffic was zooming by in a blur. I looked for speed limit signs—but never saw one in the approximately two hours that we were on that road. So … I figured it must be like the Autobahn—where you make up your own speed limit. When I surpassed 90 MPH—traffic was still zooming past me. (Yes, that’s MILES—not kilometers.) Um, er … I later learned that the limit was 70 MPH. I hope a pile of speeding tickets (from the speed cameras) don’t show up!
There was some absolutely stunning scenery part of the way. At one point, all I could see was snow covered mountains stretched out before me. Unfortunately, that was one of the many times when I couldn’t find anywhere to safely pull over for a photo. (I think it’s terribly rude of the Welsh to tease me with all of this gorgeous scenery—and no where to stop and take a picture! This was a frequent complaint.)
I’ll leave you by saying that North Wales was the highlight of our trip. It hadn’t even been on our “tourist radar” and we only visited because our friend’s sister offered to show us around. North Wales combined breathtakingly beautiful scenery with fantastic castles and ruins—and an unexpected sense of the foreign and exotic. But don’t take my word for it. Here’s the photo link to copy and paste in your browser:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...6%3A1924342122
We will definitely return—and would once again choose to stay at Felin Parc.
I was NOT looking forward to the 4 – 5 hour drive from Bisley, Stroud—in the Cotswolds—to North Wales. We decided to make lots of stops and the first one was in Tewkesbury. Good choice.
With its black & white timbered Tudor buildings Tewkesbury felt quite unique from the other Cotswolds towns we’d visited. We took a relaxing stroll along the picturesque river walk into the town center where we visited the Abbey. There was a service going on so I only took a quick peek inside. The outside was more impressive. Under other circumstances I’d have been raving about the Abbey. But I think I’ve seen enough Abbeys and Cathedrals to last me quite a while—and after Gloucester Cathedral, everything else came in a distant second place.
Once we hit the M5 I couldn’t believe how fast the traffic was moving. At one point I glanced at the speedometer and noticed that I was going 92 mph—and traffic was passing me! (Yes, that’s miles—not kilometers.)
I’d looked forward to the drive through Shropshire as I’d heard it was exceptionally beautiful—but from the motorway it looked much like the scenery in the Cotswolds. But it seemed that the moment we crossed the border into Wales the scenery became dramatically more beautiful. One of our many photo stops was at the beautiful Cellyn Reservoir. The scenery was so pretty that I didn’t mind the long drive—and that’s not like me!
Our cottage, Tan-y-Clogwen –built in 1640—at Felin Parc (in Tan-lan) was everything we could have hoped for. It’s within the Snowdonia National Park region—and its riverside setting, with snow-capped mountains as a backdrop, was stunning. We spent our first morning walking along the river and snapping photos of the waterfalls and mountains.
Then … on to Portmerion. It was fantastic—quite otherworldly—in an almost Disney-esque/fairytale fashion. The setting was as magical as the colorful, Italianate buildings, fountains, and pools. We took the 30 minute coastal walk – and with the tide being out, it was some of the most unusual, exquisite scenery I’d ever seen. This is a “must see.”
Then, on to Harlech Castle. Our first glimpse of this enormous imposing castle was breathtaking. We fed a machine our 3 pounds to park and I took photo after photo before heading to the ticket booth … where we learned that the castle—and ALL castles—were closed for 48 hours due to a strike by the civil servants!!! AGGHHH. Déjà vu. I’d spent a week in Paris many years ago—and never set foot in one museum (including the Louvre) due to a strike.
We decided to walk through Harlech and then down to the beach. The town itself has little to offer other than the castle. It was a long walk to the beach—at least thirty minutes. We could have driven, but enjoyed the views of the castle; the mountains; the golfers; and the ocean in the distance. Harlech beach was quite large and very pleasant—but not a “dramatic” coastline. The walk back up the hill to the castle car park had somehow become considerably steeper since we’d left.
On the way back to the cottage we stopped in Porthmadog—a busy little town with little charm, but lots of shopping—and an actual supermarket! Picked up provisions and headed back to the cottage to have tea with crackers and cheese on a picnic bench overlooking the river and mountains while the sinking sun glowed on the hillsides. Bliss.
A friend’s sister & brother-in-law who live near Harlech met us the next morning and gave us quite the full-day tour. It was yet another gorgeous day, with brilliant, clear blue skies and we started with a hike from the car park at Aberglaslyn that led us along a river with stunning views. (Help! I’m running out of superlatives!) We walked to Beddgelert where, at the suggestion of a Fodorite, we had a tasty lunch at Lynn’s and a short look around the charming town, then hiked back to the car. Got some fantastic photos. Just before the car park we met a sheep with the most adorable little, snow white baby lamb. It melted my heart.
I couldn’t begin to tell you where else we went that day—because the names are utterly unpronounceable—but every turn brought more gorgeous vistas. One back lane brought us out to the ruins of a slate mill. I thought it was hilarious that the sign simply stated “Ruins.” The setting was beautiful and I would have thought it had been a castle. Loved it.
Our next stop was Melin Wlan Brynkir woolen mill where we watched the old looms weave their magic—and browsed in the shop. The woven goods were quite unique and absolutely beautiful. I agonized over whether to bring home one of the woven bedspreads—but decided against spending more than $300 for what would be destined to become a cat bed and scratching area.
Then on to Criccieth—a charming seaside town with more stunning views and its Welsh castle (as opposed to most of the castles that were “English”—built by Edward I) looking down from its clifftop perch. We had tea at Cadwalader’s, quite literally overlooking the sea, then a stroll for some photo ops along the beach.
I was surprised at how many people were speaking the Welsh language. It sounded Scandinavian/Germanic—with lots of “throat clearing” sounds. I enjoyed hearing it.
Late that night DP woke up violently ill. I’ll spare you the disgusting details—but the following day was spent with him in bed (or the bathroom)—and me hovering and worrying. Our trip to the Llyn Peninsula and Caernarfon would have to wait until another time.
We learned that a 24-hour vomiting virus was prevalent—and hoped it would indeed pass that quickly. Sick or not, we’d have to leave our perfect little cottage to drive to Liverpool where I’d be teaching a class.
Thankfully, DP was feeling considerably better when it was time to leave. It was yet another gorgeous day with blue, sun-filled skies and we decided to drive through Caernarfon—which was almost on the way (depending on which route we chose). The castle (from the 1200’s) was massive and very impressive—and the history is incredible.
It was amazing to walk in the footsteps where Edward I lived. Edward II was born there; Prince Charles’ coronation as Prince of Wales was held there; and I learned countless other interesting tidbits. We climbed tower after tower (Oy, my aching legs) and the views were fantastic. The town, with the remnants of its Medieval walls—was a nice surprise. It was quite charming and very atmospheric.
Then back on the road to Liverpool. Once we entered the M5 motorway the traffic was zooming by in a blur. I looked for speed limit signs—but never saw one in the approximately two hours that we were on that road. So … I figured it must be like the Autobahn—where you make up your own speed limit. When I surpassed 90 MPH—traffic was still zooming past me. (Yes, that’s MILES—not kilometers.) Um, er … I later learned that the limit was 70 MPH. I hope a pile of speeding tickets (from the speed cameras) don’t show up!
There was some absolutely stunning scenery part of the way. At one point, all I could see was snow covered mountains stretched out before me. Unfortunately, that was one of the many times when I couldn’t find anywhere to safely pull over for a photo. (I think it’s terribly rude of the Welsh to tease me with all of this gorgeous scenery—and no where to stop and take a picture! This was a frequent complaint.)
I’ll leave you by saying that North Wales was the highlight of our trip. It hadn’t even been on our “tourist radar” and we only visited because our friend’s sister offered to show us around. North Wales combined breathtakingly beautiful scenery with fantastic castles and ruins—and an unexpected sense of the foreign and exotic. But don’t take my word for it. Here’s the photo link to copy and paste in your browser:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...6%3A1924342122
We will definitely return—and would once again choose to stay at Felin Parc.
Mar 22nd, 2010, 05:03 AM
#6
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Oh wow! My two picks of all the lovely photos are the one of Portmerion across the shimmering sand and little rivulettes across to the hills. Second, the one taken from Caernarfon down upon the little yachts floating on an incredible transparent bluey-green water.
Well done and thanks for letting us into your secret hide-away!
Well done and thanks for letting us into your secret hide-away!
Mar 22nd, 2010, 06:31 AM
#7
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I have been to this part of Wales several times and find new things every time. I love it there!
The first time I was at Caernarvon was right after Prince Charles was invested as Prince of Wales. All the stuff for the ceremony was still up and it did detract a bit from the medieval feeling but not enough to spoil it.
I think my friend and I along with three or four nine year old boys were the only ones there on a cold March Saturday.
They were running around and hiding in niches and jumping out to scare each other. My friend and I decided to join the fun and jumped out and really scared the little fellers. They scampered off to join their friends and said something in Welsh, probably to the effect that two old ladies were running around after them. We laughed. Those lads are probably grandfathers by now!
My other visits were summer times. Had the fun of bringing my parents to show them one of my favorite places. Would love to go back!
The first time I was at Caernarvon was right after Prince Charles was invested as Prince of Wales. All the stuff for the ceremony was still up and it did detract a bit from the medieval feeling but not enough to spoil it.
I think my friend and I along with three or four nine year old boys were the only ones there on a cold March Saturday.
They were running around and hiding in niches and jumping out to scare each other. My friend and I decided to join the fun and jumped out and really scared the little fellers. They scampered off to join their friends and said something in Welsh, probably to the effect that two old ladies were running around after them. We laughed. Those lads are probably grandfathers by now!
My other visits were summer times. Had the fun of bringing my parents to show them one of my favorite places. Would love to go back!
Mar 22nd, 2010, 04:31 PM
#13
Original Poster
Thank you all for your very kind comments. I don't quite understand why everyone goes to Ireland and England -- and so few tourists seem to visit Wales. I think Wales needs a good PR firm ;-)
"You were incredibly lucky with the weather too ..."
Yes. We were soooo lucky. (Maybe that makes up for ten solid days of rain in Sydney.) Our Welsh friends said that we were seeing things in their very best light--and that we would feel differently if we lived there through day after unrelenting day of a cold, gray winter.
Loved Irishface's story of jumping out and scaring the lads at Caernarfon! It's the PERFECT place to do that. It was quite empty when we first arrived--and very spooky.
Tod -- that photo of Portmerion is one of my favorites. Bear in mind that I took 1,415 pix -- and chose only my very faves to post.
"You were incredibly lucky with the weather too ..."
Yes. We were soooo lucky. (Maybe that makes up for ten solid days of rain in Sydney.) Our Welsh friends said that we were seeing things in their very best light--and that we would feel differently if we lived there through day after unrelenting day of a cold, gray winter.
Loved Irishface's story of jumping out and scaring the lads at Caernarfon! It's the PERFECT place to do that. It was quite empty when we first arrived--and very spooky.
Tod -- that photo of Portmerion is one of my favorites. Bear in mind that I took 1,415 pix -- and chose only my very faves to post.
Mar 23rd, 2010, 12:49 PM
#14
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Songdoc...fully agree...wonderful descriptions...The Road Less Traveled certainly suggests Wales (especially north) We have experienced many of the same places; last time for us was '96 ..the clock stood still in Snowdonia, the Italianate theme of Port Meiron was intriguing. We also stayed in Criccieth at a place I still can't pronounce..a beautiful country home called "Mynydd EdnyFed"...the ride over Llanberis Pass was breathtaking..you brought it all back to life and for that we thank you.
You mentioned Caernarfon, and we wondered whether or not you visited the town with longest name...we stopped on our way to catch the ferry at Holyhead ...then in Norway a few years later we ran across the village with the shortest name..in the Lofotens..."A" (pronounced "Aw")..thought I'd join them for you and call it "The Long and Short of It"
Again thanks for the dose of delightful nostalgia. Your pix captured it handsomely.
http://picasaweb.google.com/stuartto...fZlbSHitrFlgE#
Stu Tower
You mentioned Caernarfon, and we wondered whether or not you visited the town with longest name...we stopped on our way to catch the ferry at Holyhead ...then in Norway a few years later we ran across the village with the shortest name..in the Lofotens..."A" (pronounced "Aw")..thought I'd join them for you and call it "The Long and Short of It"
Again thanks for the dose of delightful nostalgia. Your pix captured it handsomely.
http://picasaweb.google.com/stuartto...fZlbSHitrFlgE#
Stu Tower
Mar 23rd, 2010, 01:07 PM
#16
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SShhhh . . . your spilling our secrets!
Actually, it's not a secret, we tell everyone about Wales. We're expats living in the UK surrounded by other expats. They are so busy flying all over Europe that they are missing the best stuff right in their own backyard!
Actually, it's not a secret, we tell everyone about Wales. We're expats living in the UK surrounded by other expats. They are so busy flying all over Europe that they are missing the best stuff right in their own backyard!
Mar 24th, 2010, 02:45 PM
#17
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"I looked for speed limit signs—but never saw one in the approximately two hours that we were on that road."
I expect you saw at least one, a white disc with a black diagonal line through it, like this:
http://www.abd.org.uk/know_your_speed_limits.htm
Regards.
I expect you saw at least one, a white disc with a black diagonal line through it, like this:
http://www.abd.org.uk/know_your_speed_limits.htm
Regards.
Mar 24th, 2010, 04:07 PM
#18
Original Poster
Thanks for sharing the website. I sure wish I'd known about it before. Frankly, there were several signs and markings on the roads that I didn't understand. It would be nice if the rental car agencies made this information available.
I never went faster than the flow of the traffic--and there were typically 30 MPH signs posted in small towns -- but if I'd known the limits on the dual carriageways I would not have exceeded them.
Live and learn.
I never went faster than the flow of the traffic--and there were typically 30 MPH signs posted in small towns -- but if I'd known the limits on the dual carriageways I would not have exceeded them.
Live and learn.
