wanderer

We will be in Venice May 20-28th - can't wait! First time to Italy for both of us.

We will be renting an apartment in Santa Croce near Campo San Giocomo dell Orio.

We arrive in Venice @ 11:40am. We plan to take the bus to Pizzale Roma and then the vaparetto to San Stae stop. Since this will be a travel day and we will be exhausted, thought we'd just meet our contact, check in, then get something to eat in the Campo and relas.

Sun - Day One -
Dorsoduro, San Giorgio Maggiore and Giudeca
Take the vaparetto to Zattere stop - walk along and have coffee somewhere.

Then head to San Giorgio Maggiore in time for monks' chants. (How will we know where to get vaparetto that goes to San Giorgio Maggiore?)

Back to Dorsoduro, and wander. Campo Santa Margherita for lunch, then to Santa Maria della Salute and Punta della Dogana for sunset view.

Giudecca for dinner at Altanella or Locanda Montin. (Again, where do we pick up vaparetto and does it run late enough that we won't get stranded?)

I didn't want to go to Piazza San Marco day one, as we want to get our "feet wet" so to speak (hopefully not literally) first.

Mon - Day Two -
Lido and Castello

Take the vaparetto to Lido and explore. Perhaps rent bikes. See market on Via Falier.

Castello -
Riva degli Schiavoni
Santi Giovanni e Paolo and Campo
Giardini Pubblici
San Zaccaria

Not sure where for lunch/dinner

Tues - Day Three -
San Polo and Santa Croce

Up early to see Rialto Market and Fish Market.
Rialto Bridge and shops
Lunch - Cantina do Mori
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
Campo San Polo

Again, up in the air about lunch/dinner

Wed - Day Four -
Cannaregio and San Michele

Il Ghetto
Coin department store
Santa Maria dei Maracoli
Isola di San Michele

Dinner at La Vedova (?)

Thurs - Day Five -
San Marco

Piazza San Marco
Campanile
Basilica San Marco
Palazzo Ducale - someone told me we could get tickets ahead for the Basilica so we don't have to wait in line? Can we also for the Ducale if we are not doing a tour?
Piazetta San Marco
Torre dell Orologio
Campo Santo Stefano - lunch

Dinner (?)

Caffe Floria for a Bellini after dinner.

Friday - Day Six - (last full day)
Lagoon Islands

Murano, Burano and Torcello

Is Murano worth it? We definitely want to see Burano and Torcello but don't want to be rushed.

Lunch at Il Gatto on Burano.

Dinner (?)

As you can see, still haven't gotten to the restaurants yet.

We are not museum people, and so have not listed Accademia or Guggenheim. We want to be outside as much as possible.

We also want to fit in somewhere -
Cruise on the Grand Canal via vaparetto
Gondola Ride on side canals
Drinks on Terrace of Hotel Monaco
Salizada San Moise - shopping

Please let us know if we are missing any "highlights". We want this to be a truly relaxing vacation and don't want to be rushing here and there every minute, but more spending time in cafes, walking around, enjoying the atmosphere.

If anyone has good shopping suggestions (moderate - not designer shops), please let me know. I read somewhere about the slippers with the bicycle tread bottoms, and cannot find the store now - too many guidebooks!!

Also, please tell me what I should wear in the churches. I know shoulders and/or upper arms need to be covered. I thought I read somewhere that knees also need to be covered? So this leaves pants (are pants ok?) or long skirts/dresses?

Our flight leaves Venice at 10:10am on Sat. We should be at the airport 2 hrs. early per Delta. Do the vaparettos run that early and are they reliable? I would rather be there WAY early than to stress that we will miss our flight.

Does this itinerary make sense as far as the groupings of sights? Restaurant (moderate - @under 22E for dinner and under 15E for lunch) much appreciated.

Tiff

ttt for wanderer...

ellenem

The boat landings for the vaporetti are all labeled with the number of the boat. Check the route map for the number of the boat you need and the direction of the boat--kind of like choosing uptown and downtown on a subway. Also watch for the number on the boat.

Personally, I wouldn't necessarily be riding vaporetti to all these places, but wandering the streets to get there. You can walk from Piazzale Roma to Piazza San Marco in 45 mintues--Venice is not all that big.

Locanda Montin is in Dorsoduro, not the Giudecca. Maybe I just read your comment wrong.

Personally, I would make it a point to walk through Piazza San Marco at every opportunity.

I would save the Lido till later in the trip when you might need a break from the bustle in central Venice, unless the market you mention has specific opening days.

While you're exploring the outer reaches of Castello at the public gardens, you might go all the way to Sant'Elena, a real residential neighborhood. I like to eat there at Osteria Sant'Elena (also known as Dal Pampo--see Fodors description) for its neighborhood feel, good food, and lower prices.

Dress in churches: Both men and women should have their shoulders and knees covered. Wear whatever articles of clothing will accomplish this for you. (I've seen the poor souls in those trash-bag-like coverups provided at the Vatican. . .) In May chances are you won't be wearing a tank top and shorts, so it probably won't be a problem.

Your departure is not as early as many. You should have no difficulty getting to the airport via public transport at that hour. Or you could splurge on a private water taxi.

Sounds like you are going to have a great trip.

hlocke1

Hi wanderer --

It looks like you have quite a trip planned. =)

To get to San Giorgio, you'll want the #82 vaporetto. Here is a link to the official transport site: http://www.actv.it/english/home.php. You can find routes and timetables here.

For the churches: I wore a knee-length skirt and top with the shoulders covered and was fine. The shoulders are the main concern.

There are several threads regarding early flights from Venice. Just type these key phrases into the search box at the top. Your flight is actually late compared to most of them, so you should have several options. =)

As far as wanting a relaxing vacation goes, you should be prepared to let your itinerary loosen up a bit... wandering around Venice with no destination in mind can be a lot of fun. Enjoy! -- h.

Where2Travel

You should be able to fit all your things in but I also agree that Venice is the perfect place for lots of idle wandering around the back streets and squares and just seeing where you end up. I think I must have walked miles each day doing this. Chances are, you will not be far from a vaparetto stop wherever you get to. Many paths seem to lead to Rialto or Piazza San Marco so you'll often end up here.

Like you, I left Piazza San Marco until later in my trip and was glad I did. The time I best enjoyed this was the day I decided I would get up at 5.30am (just as it started to get light) and walk there via Rialto. It was magical at that time with no crowds and no more than a handful of people around. I then took one of the first boats back up the Grand Canal which was really good with the rising sun behind for most of the journey. The rest of the time I passed through the crowds of Piazza San Marco as quickly as possible.

Of the lagoon islands, I really enjoyed Burano. Torcello is so close to Burano that it makes sense to go there but I was more disappointed than most people are with it. I went to Murano and Torcello first and was glad I did those before Burano as I'd definitely saved the best until last. You can easily do all three in a day without being rushed as they are pretty small.

wanderer

Thanks for the comments.

I think I will just make a list of the "must sees" - things I would be heartbroken if I missed like Piazza San Marco, Santa Maria Della Salute, Rialto Market, and leave the rest open to "if we feel like it".

The one thing I really wondered about was Day One. Dorsoduro seems like an interesting place - I've read it compares to the Left Bank of Paris, which we loved. Is there too much "back-and-forth" that day? I thought the Monks' chants sounded interesting and the restaurant on Guidecca (Altanella) sounded interesting.

As to restaurants, I am a little worried about being able to find any of them! I have good maps - about 5 of them actually, but is Venice so much a web of streets that we might just have to eat where we end up?

Thanks everyone for your help. Now we just have to hope there is not some sort of strike in Paris and we can't get out - that's were we fly into from Boston, before on to Venice.

hlocke1

Hi again, wanderer --

I think that sounds like a good idea. Your original plan, however, will be a good cheat sheet to sights that are lumped together in the same area. =) As far as your first day goes, Dorsoduro isn't a very large area and is located right by the other spots you're wanting to see. I think it's a good plan since it'll leave you a lot of free time to just roam about... Be sure to check out Gelateria Nico, right on the zattere. Yum!

touristblob

Do as your name suggests be a wanderer ,Venice is the city for wandering so let your feet take you where they will .Dont plan to much just let the atmosphere drive you and dont avoid piazza san marco as you need to see it at lots of differant times its a buzz.I did not think too much of the lido good for a swim ,but each to his own however the other islands including Murano are a treat .We found the Venice card /vaparetto 7 day pass a great idea to just pick you up when the feet are tired and you keep seeing more and more on each ride especially at night. if you were to see one museo and as you said you are not museo people go to the guggenhiem you can wander in on your Dorsoduro walks its a delightful gallery of small size with a wonderful collection of art and a lovely courtyard opening onto the grand canal.Good luck and enjoy your wanderings it sounds like you have researched brilliantly and have all the sights covered. We spent 9 days there last july and in the end we hardly used the maps and we just had fun seeing what was aroud the next corner.

ssachida

Even if you aren't museum people, I'd still suggest the scuola di san rocco on day 3. It is just behind the frari. If you don't like it, you will have only spent 5 minutes of your time.
It's basically one large room (about 70' x 30' at a guess) with gorgeous Tintorettos. Its smaller than most churches even and in my opinion, the best rennaisance paintings under one roof.

wanderer

Can anyone recommend one book for reliable restaurant listings? I'm sure I own it, as I must have 10 books on Venice. My husband calls me the guidebook queen.

We want moderate places - now it seems 20E is asking too much, that Venice is expensive, but I guess moderate ala Venice - nothing fancy or where we have to dress up. Just good, reliable food rather than tourist traps.

Also, if anyone can tell me where to find those slippers.... somewhere (who knows where) I read that this shop was one of only a handful that still makes these with the original bicycle tread tire bottoms. I believe the tops are velvet. Other than that, would love some lovely souvenier of perhaps a Murano glass paperweight so I can dream of Venice while at the office, and some sort of marbled paper product.

Thanks again everyone - counting the days!!!

kappa

http://photobucket.com/albums/v214/n...perweights.jpg

What do you think of these paper weights? The biggest one is about 10cm (4,5 inches?) by diameters.

annabelle2

wanderer
Can you please tell me where/how you find the schedule for the monks' chants at S Giorgio Maggiore? Much thanks. (I'll be there for third visit May 16-18; lucky you, a whole week there. Do as others have suggested and just enjoy time wandering.)

lomajay

Suggest you include a visit to Harry's Bar in your Venice itinerary. Note that men need to wear ties to enter the establishment - no exceptions, no matter how smart wearer's casual clothes. As we only had one opportunity to enjoy a drink at this location, we unhappily missed out. Worth keeping this snippet of info in mind.

wanderer

annabelle -
Saw it in one of my guidebooks that the only time for the Monks' chants is Sunday at 11am Dsm Giorgio Maggiore

hlocke1

Hi again, wanderer --

We had some of the best and least expensive meals last summer in Venice. Many of the bars offered bite-sized appetizers called cichetti and they are delish.

Several of these bars are listed in Rick Steves' Venice guide (under "pub crawl&quot. We enjoyed Cantina do Mori, Ruga Rialto, and Al Marca (near the Rialto fish market). With cichetti, you can eat and drink plenty for 20 Euros. Enjoy! -- h.

Melissa5

Enjoy Venice, it's beautiful, unique, amazing, romantic. And expensive! Get the Rick Steve's Venice guidebook and use it for restaurant recommendations.

don't forget you can buy a 3-day vaporetto pass for 22 euros each which gives you unlimited on and off privileges and includes those little islands, murano, burano, etc. You buy the vaporetto pass right at the vaporetto stop as soon as you arrive.

Take the vaporetto over to the closest little island that you can see from San Marco square...you will have to ask somebody which is the correct vaporetto to take. The island is San Giorgio Maggiori...it's never crowded. go in the church and take the elevator up to the tower...there's no wait, just a small fee to ride the elevator. Great 360 degree view from up in the tower.

annabelle2

Thanks for the information, wanderer. We won't be there on Sunday but will remember this for the future. Venice is great...we also ate some not-too-expensive meals, both the cichetti already mentioned and delicious sandwiches (tramezzini?) that you can eat at the counter or sitting down in neighborhood cafes.

wanderer

Thinking of revising our itinerary a little.

1) Is the Lido worth visiting, or should we skip it? Or leave it to the end of our trip and go if we have time?

2) Originally, we planned to do Dorsoduro and San Giorgio Maggiore on Sun, our first full day, so that we could take in the Monks' chants on Maggiore.

In reading, though, it seems most things are closed on Sun. Most of the shops, and the cafes around Campo Santa Margherita.

Wondering if it would make sense to do San Giorgio Maggiore on Sunday still (still want to see the Monks) and then do Castello. It appears some of the churches - Santi Giovanni E Paolo, etc. are open.

3) Thinking of not doing Murano with Torcello and Burano, but making Torcello and Burano a separate day. Could we add Murano to Sunday without feeling too rushed, or would it fit better with our Cannaregio/San Michele day?

4) It will be our anniversary the day we leave. Would love to go to a restaurant nicer than just pizza to celebrate, but one that won't break the bank or require dress up (tie, etc.) More looking for something with a romantic setting. Any suggestions?

PMB

Chow! Venice by Shannon Essa and Ruth Edenbaum is a guidebook on the food and wine of Venice. It is done by area and covers all price ranges. It might be helpful.

Eloise

Do yourselves a favour and skip Locanda Montin. It is coasting on its past reputation and offering mediocre food at elevated prices.

In roughly the same area (just off Campo San Barnaba), there is the Casin dei Nobili. Not a fancy place, but crowded with Italian families (and many tourists, of course); its prices are reasonable and the food is good.