Norway/Iceland 2005
Dec 8th, 2005, 12:42 PM
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Norway/Iceland 2005
Travel companions: 4 High School classmates. Purpose of our trip was to visit a 5th classmates who we hadn't seen since 1982 when she was a foreign exchange student at our High School.
Photos posted at: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/kay621...z2m1DBmrkEYwys
Copy of e-mails sent home following:
9/15/05
Greetings from Alesund, Western Fjords of Norway!
We had such high expectations and everything is exceeding them in a big way. I don't know where to begin.
Tuesday and Wednesday were days of difficult, exhausting traveling. We were simply exhausted. Norwegian speed limits are very strict and slow. All we wanted to do after 5 hours of driving was get in our reserved cabin and crash. Once we left the "super highway" (very funny), everyone seemed to be injected with a high dose of delight. Our secondary road climbed a steep mountainside by hairpin turn after hairpin turn thru a pine forest with thick, carpeted moss floors. So, so gorgeous. We drove for what seemed hours in first gear to a point above the tree line where the road turned into a dirt track. A few more miles to our cabin thru terrain that reminded me of the very tops of the Yorkshire moors. Lots of bracken (red & orange) and light green colored lichen.
The delight increased as we moved into our cabin. An ancient farm (Putten Seter) converted for tourism. Old, old, old and beautifully furnished for visitors. Mom & Tim would just have not believed it. Wavy glass windows, antiques, fireplace...too cool. Everyone that was ready for bed at 5:00pm was revived. Cindy made some soup. Tammy & Tracie cut some apples, pears and fresh bread. Ronda gathered wood, made a fire and warmed some brie over the fire. I went out for an evening hike with the sheep and Norwegian cattle (very pretty...dark, reddish brown with white faces). We stayed up until 11:00 chattering and giggling like people who haven't slept in over 24 hours. Or 41-year old school girls.
Thursday morning we hiked to the peak of Peer Gynt (?). It felt like being on top of the world. In the distance were snow-capped mountains, lakes at high elevations, Rondane National Park. Many senior citizens passed up on the hike up the mountain. How embarrasing.
Today 4 hours of driving turned into about 7 hours. Way too much to see on the way. We passed thru Trollvegen under dark, spooky clouds. It freaked everyone out a bit. Ronda was speechless (!), she was so overwhelmed. It just couldn't be described...by far the best thing on earth I've seen so far.
We didn't make an island ferry until 9:30 tonight, arrived on Mette's island and after a little searching in the dark, found her house. Absolutely gorgeous. We are so lucky to be here! And we don't even know what these islands look like in the daylight. The house is inviting and we had a nice meal waiting for us. Everyone is in the dining room making much noise and drinking wine.
I'm tired, so tired. More mentally than physically. The extreme scenery at Trollvegen blowed my mind today. I think I'm having a meltdown.
Photos posted at: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/kay621...z2m1DBmrkEYwys
Copy of e-mails sent home following:
9/15/05
Greetings from Alesund, Western Fjords of Norway!
We had such high expectations and everything is exceeding them in a big way. I don't know where to begin.
Tuesday and Wednesday were days of difficult, exhausting traveling. We were simply exhausted. Norwegian speed limits are very strict and slow. All we wanted to do after 5 hours of driving was get in our reserved cabin and crash. Once we left the "super highway" (very funny), everyone seemed to be injected with a high dose of delight. Our secondary road climbed a steep mountainside by hairpin turn after hairpin turn thru a pine forest with thick, carpeted moss floors. So, so gorgeous. We drove for what seemed hours in first gear to a point above the tree line where the road turned into a dirt track. A few more miles to our cabin thru terrain that reminded me of the very tops of the Yorkshire moors. Lots of bracken (red & orange) and light green colored lichen.
The delight increased as we moved into our cabin. An ancient farm (Putten Seter) converted for tourism. Old, old, old and beautifully furnished for visitors. Mom & Tim would just have not believed it. Wavy glass windows, antiques, fireplace...too cool. Everyone that was ready for bed at 5:00pm was revived. Cindy made some soup. Tammy & Tracie cut some apples, pears and fresh bread. Ronda gathered wood, made a fire and warmed some brie over the fire. I went out for an evening hike with the sheep and Norwegian cattle (very pretty...dark, reddish brown with white faces). We stayed up until 11:00 chattering and giggling like people who haven't slept in over 24 hours. Or 41-year old school girls.
Thursday morning we hiked to the peak of Peer Gynt (?). It felt like being on top of the world. In the distance were snow-capped mountains, lakes at high elevations, Rondane National Park. Many senior citizens passed up on the hike up the mountain. How embarrasing.
Today 4 hours of driving turned into about 7 hours. Way too much to see on the way. We passed thru Trollvegen under dark, spooky clouds. It freaked everyone out a bit. Ronda was speechless (!), she was so overwhelmed. It just couldn't be described...by far the best thing on earth I've seen so far.
We didn't make an island ferry until 9:30 tonight, arrived on Mette's island and after a little searching in the dark, found her house. Absolutely gorgeous. We are so lucky to be here! And we don't even know what these islands look like in the daylight. The house is inviting and we had a nice meal waiting for us. Everyone is in the dining room making much noise and drinking wine.
I'm tired, so tired. More mentally than physically. The extreme scenery at Trollvegen blowed my mind today. I think I'm having a meltdown.
Dec 8th, 2005, 12:43 PM
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9/17/05
Greetings from Geirangerfjord, Norway
Just arrived. Narrowest fjord in Norway. We are here for two nights in a little red cabin beside the water. Water falling everywhere. First snow of the season high above, bright greeen below.
Our last night at Mette's was quite a celebration. First we toured Gunnabuda with Uva, Mette's German husband. Mom would just love it. Old fish packing warehouse, out of commission for about 50 years. They've restored it into a partial museum, partial hostel rooms, using everything that was left on the premises to decorate in very imaginative ways. There were several conference rooms on three different levels, a banquet hall and the pub where they held a "vinyl night" dance where the locals arrived with their old vinyl albums in hand to play on the old record player Mette had just had repaired. If anyone wants to go to Norway, it is a place I would highly recommend.
Between the tour and the dance, Mette served a fabulous meal. Appetizer was king crab on lettuce with mango. Main course was reindeer with berries that she'd curshed into a sauce (kinda like cranberry). Mashed celery root (consistancy of mashed potatoes...awesome!) and boiled potatoes with reindeer gravy. The kids made fun of us because we did not take the peel off the potatoes at the table like they did.
Before dinner Uva made a fire in the hot tub. This was the real thing. A tub made of cedar with a wood burner immersed in the water and a copper chimney. It was a wonderful, wonderful thing! The back view from one side of the tub was the sheer cliff behind their house covered with pines. The other view was of the water between the two islands.
am learning that you can plan to go nowhere fast in Norway. A terrible system of ferries, bridges and tunnels across fjords and islands to navigate. Terrible if you are in a hurry, that is. Wonderful if you are here for the view.
The six of us are together here at Geirangerfjord for two nights. Most of them are going to see the Norwegian Elvis perform at the hotel tonight. It's a very touristy town, but not much action this time of year. We drove our cars onto 3 ferries to get here. The last journey by ferry was about an hour and half. The views...Gorgeous!
Tomorrow we are hiking to Skagefla, an abandoned farm on the cliff of the fjord opposite the seven sisters waterfall. (weather permitting). This is a wonderful country. I wish I had more energy to describe it. We have been on the move since we got here and I am exhausted!
Greetings from Geirangerfjord, Norway
Just arrived. Narrowest fjord in Norway. We are here for two nights in a little red cabin beside the water. Water falling everywhere. First snow of the season high above, bright greeen below.
Our last night at Mette's was quite a celebration. First we toured Gunnabuda with Uva, Mette's German husband. Mom would just love it. Old fish packing warehouse, out of commission for about 50 years. They've restored it into a partial museum, partial hostel rooms, using everything that was left on the premises to decorate in very imaginative ways. There were several conference rooms on three different levels, a banquet hall and the pub where they held a "vinyl night" dance where the locals arrived with their old vinyl albums in hand to play on the old record player Mette had just had repaired. If anyone wants to go to Norway, it is a place I would highly recommend.
Between the tour and the dance, Mette served a fabulous meal. Appetizer was king crab on lettuce with mango. Main course was reindeer with berries that she'd curshed into a sauce (kinda like cranberry). Mashed celery root (consistancy of mashed potatoes...awesome!) and boiled potatoes with reindeer gravy. The kids made fun of us because we did not take the peel off the potatoes at the table like they did.
Before dinner Uva made a fire in the hot tub. This was the real thing. A tub made of cedar with a wood burner immersed in the water and a copper chimney. It was a wonderful, wonderful thing! The back view from one side of the tub was the sheer cliff behind their house covered with pines. The other view was of the water between the two islands.
am learning that you can plan to go nowhere fast in Norway. A terrible system of ferries, bridges and tunnels across fjords and islands to navigate. Terrible if you are in a hurry, that is. Wonderful if you are here for the view.
The six of us are together here at Geirangerfjord for two nights. Most of them are going to see the Norwegian Elvis perform at the hotel tonight. It's a very touristy town, but not much action this time of year. We drove our cars onto 3 ferries to get here. The last journey by ferry was about an hour and half. The views...Gorgeous!
Tomorrow we are hiking to Skagefla, an abandoned farm on the cliff of the fjord opposite the seven sisters waterfall. (weather permitting). This is a wonderful country. I wish I had more energy to describe it. We have been on the move since we got here and I am exhausted!
Dec 8th, 2005, 12:45 PM
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9/20/05
Greetings from Reykjavik, Iceland!
This city is too cool. We splurged on a wonderful dinner tonight in a place that was just too hip for us. Tammy & I had some of the world-famous Icelandic lamb. It was way over our budget.
We're staying at the Salvation Army Hostel in the midst of Reykjavik 101 (the old section). Ronda is loving it here. She doesn't want to leave the city.
Tomorrow we're heading to Skogafoss in the south to do some hiking. Tracie is really in the extreme hiking. Tammy & Tracie are always way ahead of the rest of us. Cindy just skips along... Hopefully it will be another beautiful sunny day like we had today.
Our last night in Norway was in a cabin by an enormous lake. There were two rabbits that wondered around the camp like pets. Our breakfast table included: one backpack, one empty beer can, 2 cups of coffee, 3 cups of Pepsi, mini apple pies, bread, peanut butter & jelly. Our Norwegian friend would have been mortified. She had a perfectly set table every morning with bread, meats, cheese, cucumbers & red peppers. Oh, and brown cheese (an acquired taste.)
Ronda has suffered some tragedies. Her Doc Marten shoes that she's had for 13 years got soaked on our hike to Skagefla in Norway. When she put them on the radiator to dry, they shrunk up beyond repair. She's been in mourning ever since. We were going to end our stay in Geirangerfjord with a ceremony involving starting the laces on fire (as the Vikings would do) and throwing them into the fjord. Norwegians are very environmentally friendly, though, and we did not want to offend our friend, so we had to dispose of them in another way. Best left unexplained.
On our flight to Iceland today, Ronda had a can of "Elephant" beer explode in her checked bag. Our tiny room has the contents of her bag draped over everything and reeks of beer.
I guess that's the worst that's happened to us so far, so we're goind pretty good. And Ronda can say that she bought her new boots in Lillehammer. It's something brag-worthy.
Greetings from Reykjavik, Iceland!
This city is too cool. We splurged on a wonderful dinner tonight in a place that was just too hip for us. Tammy & I had some of the world-famous Icelandic lamb. It was way over our budget.
We're staying at the Salvation Army Hostel in the midst of Reykjavik 101 (the old section). Ronda is loving it here. She doesn't want to leave the city.
Tomorrow we're heading to Skogafoss in the south to do some hiking. Tracie is really in the extreme hiking. Tammy & Tracie are always way ahead of the rest of us. Cindy just skips along... Hopefully it will be another beautiful sunny day like we had today.
Our last night in Norway was in a cabin by an enormous lake. There were two rabbits that wondered around the camp like pets. Our breakfast table included: one backpack, one empty beer can, 2 cups of coffee, 3 cups of Pepsi, mini apple pies, bread, peanut butter & jelly. Our Norwegian friend would have been mortified. She had a perfectly set table every morning with bread, meats, cheese, cucumbers & red peppers. Oh, and brown cheese (an acquired taste.)
Ronda has suffered some tragedies. Her Doc Marten shoes that she's had for 13 years got soaked on our hike to Skagefla in Norway. When she put them on the radiator to dry, they shrunk up beyond repair. She's been in mourning ever since. We were going to end our stay in Geirangerfjord with a ceremony involving starting the laces on fire (as the Vikings would do) and throwing them into the fjord. Norwegians are very environmentally friendly, though, and we did not want to offend our friend, so we had to dispose of them in another way. Best left unexplained.
On our flight to Iceland today, Ronda had a can of "Elephant" beer explode in her checked bag. Our tiny room has the contents of her bag draped over everything and reeks of beer.
I guess that's the worst that's happened to us so far, so we're goind pretty good. And Ronda can say that she bought her new boots in Lillehammer. It's something brag-worthy.
Dec 8th, 2005, 12:45 PM
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9/24/05
Osar Farmstead, Iceland
We are snowed in at Knutur's farm house. We drove into a blizzard in the highlands on the way here. It is beautiful, but we weren't prepared for this kind of weather. Last year when I was here, we had the windows open and hiked without jackets.
Life on this farm would be wonderful. Tammy and I walked down to the beach yesterday to watch the eider ducks and seals. The snow is beautiful. We spent this morning in the milking barn. Very warm and smelly. Icelandic cows are beautiful...psychodelic colors.
Knutur just checked the weather for us. Tomorrow will be the worst day, so we have to decide if we should try to get out today or wait until Monday. Rain is predicted for Monday, which would be safer, but we might make a run for it today to the south where it is dry and sunny so we can hike some more. Knutur has offered to escort us to the main road in case our crappy little rental car with smooth tires doesn't make it. I guess this is the unpredictable Icelandic weather!
Last night was a fun party a the hostel. Knutur joined us for some of the Viking beer that we bought at the Vin-Bud. We had a party of Italians join us. One has been in Iceland for 6 months working in the south. His sister and her bf just arrived for a week's vacation. They are so excited about seeing the snow.
Osar Farmstead, Iceland
We are snowed in at Knutur's farm house. We drove into a blizzard in the highlands on the way here. It is beautiful, but we weren't prepared for this kind of weather. Last year when I was here, we had the windows open and hiked without jackets.
Life on this farm would be wonderful. Tammy and I walked down to the beach yesterday to watch the eider ducks and seals. The snow is beautiful. We spent this morning in the milking barn. Very warm and smelly. Icelandic cows are beautiful...psychodelic colors.
Knutur just checked the weather for us. Tomorrow will be the worst day, so we have to decide if we should try to get out today or wait until Monday. Rain is predicted for Monday, which would be safer, but we might make a run for it today to the south where it is dry and sunny so we can hike some more. Knutur has offered to escort us to the main road in case our crappy little rental car with smooth tires doesn't make it. I guess this is the unpredictable Icelandic weather!
Last night was a fun party a the hostel. Knutur joined us for some of the Viking beer that we bought at the Vin-Bud. We had a party of Italians join us. One has been in Iceland for 6 months working in the south. His sister and her bf just arrived for a week's vacation. They are so excited about seeing the snow.
Dec 8th, 2005, 12:46 PM
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9/25/05
Laugarvatn, Iceland
We made it out of the north! It was a very quick decision to make a break for it Saturday morning. We packed and cleaned in less than 5 minutes. Knutur escorted us and the Italians out to the highway. We were able to stop and catch a bit of the horse round-up.
Several people ride horses into the highlands and drive them down to the round up. The herds are manuvered into the fold (proabably about 100 at a time). The working dogs are very happy. Then the horses are sorted from the inner circular area into smaller pens on the outer circle. It is a very exciting time...with much celebration. They call it Thanksgiving.
After driving 1 hour over the highlands from Knutur's house, we were back in sunny, relatively warm weather. We found a hostel here in this spa town (warm, steaming lake). Ronda went to the restaurant to mingle with the locals and got invited to a huge party (celebrating the sheep round-up here). Tammy and I soaked in the hot tub until midnight hoping for a glimpse of the northern lights. It was clear an starry, but too warm to see the lights.
This morning Tammy & I hiked up the mountain along a river to a cave. Very warm & sunshiny. I soaked up some sun on thick grass. Ronda was just waking up when we got back to the hostel (she got home at 6 am). Then we all we all drove to Gullfoss and found a place to eat some greasy burgers. It was very much appreciated after all the healthy stuff we've been cooking in the hostels.
This evening I took a drive to watch the animals in the beautiful, beautiful sunshine. No way to describe how intense the sunshine is here. Just gorgeous. Ronda has charmed the waitress at the restaurant into selling her some beer illegally so we can have some for the hot tub tonight.
Tomorrow back to Reykjavik to visit some art museums recommended by Knutur. He's unbelieveable...smart, gorgeous AND knows about art. Tuesday home again. I don't think we're ready. Everyone is having a wonderful, relaxing time and getting along very well. It doesn't seem like two weeks has passed.
Laugarvatn, Iceland
We made it out of the north! It was a very quick decision to make a break for it Saturday morning. We packed and cleaned in less than 5 minutes. Knutur escorted us and the Italians out to the highway. We were able to stop and catch a bit of the horse round-up.
Several people ride horses into the highlands and drive them down to the round up. The herds are manuvered into the fold (proabably about 100 at a time). The working dogs are very happy. Then the horses are sorted from the inner circular area into smaller pens on the outer circle. It is a very exciting time...with much celebration. They call it Thanksgiving.
After driving 1 hour over the highlands from Knutur's house, we were back in sunny, relatively warm weather. We found a hostel here in this spa town (warm, steaming lake). Ronda went to the restaurant to mingle with the locals and got invited to a huge party (celebrating the sheep round-up here). Tammy and I soaked in the hot tub until midnight hoping for a glimpse of the northern lights. It was clear an starry, but too warm to see the lights.
This morning Tammy & I hiked up the mountain along a river to a cave. Very warm & sunshiny. I soaked up some sun on thick grass. Ronda was just waking up when we got back to the hostel (she got home at 6 am). Then we all we all drove to Gullfoss and found a place to eat some greasy burgers. It was very much appreciated after all the healthy stuff we've been cooking in the hostels.
This evening I took a drive to watch the animals in the beautiful, beautiful sunshine. No way to describe how intense the sunshine is here. Just gorgeous. Ronda has charmed the waitress at the restaurant into selling her some beer illegally so we can have some for the hot tub tonight.
Tomorrow back to Reykjavik to visit some art museums recommended by Knutur. He's unbelieveable...smart, gorgeous AND knows about art. Tuesday home again. I don't think we're ready. Everyone is having a wonderful, relaxing time and getting along very well. It doesn't seem like two weeks has passed.
Dec 8th, 2005, 12:46 PM
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Afterthought....Our second night in Iceland was fantastic. Fljotsdalur Hostel in the south near Skogafoss. The bridge was washed out, so we had to find a long way around. When we arrived, it looked like a run-down shack. Ronda was sure that raccoons would come screaming out at us. It was up a drive too steep for our stupid little car, so we decided to walk up & check it out. What a surprise it was. A cute, enclosed English garden in the back with lots of ferns and wildflowers. The building had a turf roof and was very, very old. The floors were crooked, windows crooked with wavy glass, crooked doorways. Very charming, though, with walls of books in the sitting room. There was no shower or hot water in the hostel, but we found an a-frame makeshift shower in the back of the garden. Tammy heated a big kettle of water and took a shower. What a woman.
There was a huge fire pit for grilling large dinners. We could tell they have some really good parties here in the summer time. Ronda stated a fire (she's the pyromaniac) and we had roasted hot dogs an beer by the pit with our German hostel-mate, Gizelle.
The next day we soaked at the Blue Lagoon before taking Cindy & Tracie to the airport for their flight home.
There was a huge fire pit for grilling large dinners. We could tell they have some really good parties here in the summer time. Ronda stated a fire (she's the pyromaniac) and we had roasted hot dogs an beer by the pit with our German hostel-mate, Gizelle.
The next day we soaked at the Blue Lagoon before taking Cindy & Tracie to the airport for their flight home.
Dec 8th, 2005, 12:57 PM
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Great trip reports, keep them coming! I really enjoy reading reports from my home country.
(ps. if you want straight and faster roads, go across the mountains to the Ostlandet (East Country) landscape more flat and boring, and no fjords)
O.T.
("exiled" in the Isle of Man)
(ps. if you want straight and faster roads, go across the mountains to the Ostlandet (East Country) landscape more flat and boring, and no fjords)
O.T.
("exiled" in the Isle of Man)
Dec 8th, 2005, 06:09 PM
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Hi Kay,
Looks like a great trip....loved the photos. It's time for me to get out my Norway map from our trip there 3 years ago to see just where those fabulous sites are. That hike looks a tad bit scary!
I'll have to get back to Iceland in the winter months...the snow looks gorgeous!! Your pics of the Icelandic horses in the snow are just great!!
Thanks for posting the report. I enjoyed reading of your travels!!
Devona
Looks like a great trip....loved the photos. It's time for me to get out my Norway map from our trip there 3 years ago to see just where those fabulous sites are. That hike looks a tad bit scary!
I'll have to get back to Iceland in the winter months...the snow looks gorgeous!! Your pics of the Icelandic horses in the snow are just great!!
Thanks for posting the report. I enjoyed reading of your travels!!
Devona
Dec 9th, 2005, 05:02 AM
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OT - Why would you ever leave Norway? It's fabulous! Though I supppose the Isle of Man in incredible, too.
Indytravel - make it a point to visit Iceland. I spent more money & more time planning than I wanted to, but it was so worth it!
dkw - I want to experience Iceland in the winter, too! The airfare is ridiculous...maybe all of us Michiganders can demand a direct flight from DTW to bring the cost down!
Indytravel - make it a point to visit Iceland. I spent more money & more time planning than I wanted to, but it was so worth it!
dkw - I want to experience Iceland in the winter, too! The airfare is ridiculous...maybe all of us Michiganders can demand a direct flight from DTW to bring the cost down!
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