North Spain -Green Spain - Wow ! trip report
Sep 13th, 2010, 07:14 AM
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North Spain -Green Spain - Wow ! trip report
Destination - A Coruna - the oldest town in Galicia ,for a wedding then exploring other villages on our way to the Basque Country . July 2010
The flight to Madrid was uneventful - we had a 3 hour layover until our next flight to A Coruna. A taxi picked us up and brought us to our Hotel -
Let me start off by saying I had no idea of the Celtic influence here. A Coruna is mentioned in Irish myths. It also known for Octopus. It is served in many establishments - and I loved it.
Our hotel - Hotel Attica 21 - I gave it a very poor report on Trip Advisor. This is where most of the wedding party and family and friends were booked.
It was a highrise building with no character. The rooms were sparse, cheap construction and not very comfortable. It was not in walking distance to anything, but it was alright for us since our friends had a car.
We explored the town centre - Plaza Maria Pita - and ate all sorts of delicasies of the area. It has pavement cafes and boutiques.
One of Europes oldest Light houses is here - Torre de Hercules. It dates back to Roman times. We walked up the very long somewhat steep hill to get there.There is a small museum at the base. We walked the spiraling stair case to the top, very winded but pleased with what we saw - a panoramic view of the city and sea - just lovely!
We walked around the harbor front promenade which is known for houses with glass enclosed balconies. A Coruna also boasts the longest Sea promenade in Europe.
WE visited Iglesia de Santiago - a Romanesque Gothic church built in the 12th century.
Spanish Wedding: It went until 7:30 am!!!
My husbands dear friend who lives in Madrid invited us to his brothers wedding. My husband has met the brother but I had not. So, I did not know anyone except our friends.
The ceremony took place in a small village outside A Coruna called Pazo de Vilaboa.
We drove about 20 minutes to get to this little picturesque village.
It was held outdoors in the court yard of an very old estate. It looked like a small castle.
It had beautiful gardens with sculptures and old stone nooks and crannies. A purple flowered vine covered the exterior of the structure and was gorgeous.
Cocktails and passed Hors D'ouvres were enjoyed for a couple of hours. There of course was the signature octupus served!! The big black cauldron they are cooked in and the chefs cutting them into discs! The famous Iberian ham, scallops, shrimp, and more seafood then I have ever seen.
There was a celtic band for this part of the wedding - I felt like I was in Ireland.
At midnight the main course was served inside. 2 Lobster tails and filet mignon. Needless to say just a treat! NO wedding cake - they had brownies with ice cream... a bit strange.
At 1:30 the DJ started and everyone danced the night away. I danced with my new Spanish friends. WE communicated ok - some spoke English. DH can speak some Spanish so we managed to get along. We met some amazing people - a Secret Service agent , a sports agent who represented several soccer players, ahotel owner, etc..
A big basket of espredrille flat shoes were set out for the ladies wearing high heels so they coudl dance in relative comfort. Very nice detail.
Mojitos were the cocktail of the night it seemed - all the ladies drank them.
AT 6 am - breakfast was served - I could not possibly!
The next day we were tired and did not feel the best. We chose to go to the beach.
The water was too cold to swim, but we enjoyed just laying there and people watching.
** a little side note: I was not prepared for how cool it was here - especially at night and that it stayed light out until 10:45 pm!! Loved both.
Dinner at a seaside village/resort -
O Rincon Do Mar in Sada - about 45 min from our hotel. Several of our new Spanish friends went - 4 car loads - about 16 people. What a great little village- it is a resort town that boasts some amazing food at cheap prices. OK, listen to this - Pitchers of beer, octopus, shrimp, russian salad, ham, pork, croquettes, vegetable side dishes for all - total cost $117 Euros!
Packed up the car - our Friend naviagating us through the amazing landscapes - lush green valleys, soaring mountains, and the dramatic coast line. There are giant cliffs, and pristine beaches. We followed the highway along the coast.
First , That morning we Drove to Santiago de Compostela first. This is a very important place of Pilgrimage of which we saw many pilgrims fom all over the world.
The Baroque church stands majesticly in the middle. Long lines wrapped around the church to get a glimpse of Saint James crypt. It was about an hour wait, We enjoyed the Cathedral museum and bought many little souvenirs here.
We enjoyed a coffee break at the Parador here - I would recommend staying here if you are going to stay here over night.
we are headed to Gijon.......
to be cont.
The flight to Madrid was uneventful - we had a 3 hour layover until our next flight to A Coruna. A taxi picked us up and brought us to our Hotel -
Let me start off by saying I had no idea of the Celtic influence here. A Coruna is mentioned in Irish myths. It also known for Octopus. It is served in many establishments - and I loved it.
Our hotel - Hotel Attica 21 - I gave it a very poor report on Trip Advisor. This is where most of the wedding party and family and friends were booked.
It was a highrise building with no character. The rooms were sparse, cheap construction and not very comfortable. It was not in walking distance to anything, but it was alright for us since our friends had a car.
We explored the town centre - Plaza Maria Pita - and ate all sorts of delicasies of the area. It has pavement cafes and boutiques.
One of Europes oldest Light houses is here - Torre de Hercules. It dates back to Roman times. We walked up the very long somewhat steep hill to get there.There is a small museum at the base. We walked the spiraling stair case to the top, very winded but pleased with what we saw - a panoramic view of the city and sea - just lovely!
We walked around the harbor front promenade which is known for houses with glass enclosed balconies. A Coruna also boasts the longest Sea promenade in Europe.
WE visited Iglesia de Santiago - a Romanesque Gothic church built in the 12th century.
Spanish Wedding: It went until 7:30 am!!!
My husbands dear friend who lives in Madrid invited us to his brothers wedding. My husband has met the brother but I had not. So, I did not know anyone except our friends.
The ceremony took place in a small village outside A Coruna called Pazo de Vilaboa.
We drove about 20 minutes to get to this little picturesque village.
It was held outdoors in the court yard of an very old estate. It looked like a small castle.
It had beautiful gardens with sculptures and old stone nooks and crannies. A purple flowered vine covered the exterior of the structure and was gorgeous.
Cocktails and passed Hors D'ouvres were enjoyed for a couple of hours. There of course was the signature octupus served!! The big black cauldron they are cooked in and the chefs cutting them into discs! The famous Iberian ham, scallops, shrimp, and more seafood then I have ever seen.
There was a celtic band for this part of the wedding - I felt like I was in Ireland.
At midnight the main course was served inside. 2 Lobster tails and filet mignon. Needless to say just a treat! NO wedding cake - they had brownies with ice cream... a bit strange.
At 1:30 the DJ started and everyone danced the night away. I danced with my new Spanish friends. WE communicated ok - some spoke English. DH can speak some Spanish so we managed to get along. We met some amazing people - a Secret Service agent , a sports agent who represented several soccer players, ahotel owner, etc..
A big basket of espredrille flat shoes were set out for the ladies wearing high heels so they coudl dance in relative comfort. Very nice detail.
Mojitos were the cocktail of the night it seemed - all the ladies drank them.
AT 6 am - breakfast was served - I could not possibly!
The next day we were tired and did not feel the best. We chose to go to the beach.
The water was too cold to swim, but we enjoyed just laying there and people watching.
** a little side note: I was not prepared for how cool it was here - especially at night and that it stayed light out until 10:45 pm!! Loved both.
Dinner at a seaside village/resort -
O Rincon Do Mar in Sada - about 45 min from our hotel. Several of our new Spanish friends went - 4 car loads - about 16 people. What a great little village- it is a resort town that boasts some amazing food at cheap prices. OK, listen to this - Pitchers of beer, octopus, shrimp, russian salad, ham, pork, croquettes, vegetable side dishes for all - total cost $117 Euros!
Packed up the car - our Friend naviagating us through the amazing landscapes - lush green valleys, soaring mountains, and the dramatic coast line. There are giant cliffs, and pristine beaches. We followed the highway along the coast.
First , That morning we Drove to Santiago de Compostela first. This is a very important place of Pilgrimage of which we saw many pilgrims fom all over the world.
The Baroque church stands majesticly in the middle. Long lines wrapped around the church to get a glimpse of Saint James crypt. It was about an hour wait, We enjoyed the Cathedral museum and bought many little souvenirs here.
We enjoyed a coffee break at the Parador here - I would recommend staying here if you are going to stay here over night.
we are headed to Gijon.......
to be cont.
Sep 13th, 2010, 07:44 AM
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As mentioned the drive was exquisite. Every turn offered a new glimpse of the sea, mountains and cliffs.
We stayed at the parador here. It was well appointed and an old mill turned into a hotel in a park. It was well situated. It has cramped parking, it almost took an engineering degree to figure how to park our car. We loved our room and the little gifts on the bed - Olive oil and chocolates. OUr room looked over a flowerbeds in the courtyard. There is a little lake behind with a walking path.
Word of caution - the guide books say each room has a view of the sea - not true at all.
The Celtic legacy is evident in Bagpipe music you can hear at various places we passed by. There is a bagpipe museum here.
Most of the streets are cobblestone and narrow. It is a windy town with a green lush landscape.
This area is know for cider. It is served in establishments called Chigres or sidrerias. There is a tradition for pouring from great heights in a thin stream into the glass- an art that the waiters are proud of! It was very good - i liked it better than the cider served in the UK.
After dinner we enjoyed walking the very long promenade along the beach. It was mostly locals out enjoying an ice cream, babies in carriages,etc..dog walking etc...
A hike up the hill and through Cimadevilla leads to Cerro de Santa Catalina. It is a park on the tip of the penisula that provides a view of the outstretched coastline forming the port. On the very edge of the penisula is a sculpture the size of a house, Eligio del Horizonte.
We stayed here one night. We awake early to make our way to San Sebastian......
to be cont.
We stayed at the parador here. It was well appointed and an old mill turned into a hotel in a park. It was well situated. It has cramped parking, it almost took an engineering degree to figure how to park our car. We loved our room and the little gifts on the bed - Olive oil and chocolates. OUr room looked over a flowerbeds in the courtyard. There is a little lake behind with a walking path.
Word of caution - the guide books say each room has a view of the sea - not true at all.
The Celtic legacy is evident in Bagpipe music you can hear at various places we passed by. There is a bagpipe museum here.
Most of the streets are cobblestone and narrow. It is a windy town with a green lush landscape.
This area is know for cider. It is served in establishments called Chigres or sidrerias. There is a tradition for pouring from great heights in a thin stream into the glass- an art that the waiters are proud of! It was very good - i liked it better than the cider served in the UK.
After dinner we enjoyed walking the very long promenade along the beach. It was mostly locals out enjoying an ice cream, babies in carriages,etc..dog walking etc...
A hike up the hill and through Cimadevilla leads to Cerro de Santa Catalina. It is a park on the tip of the penisula that provides a view of the outstretched coastline forming the port. On the very edge of the penisula is a sculpture the size of a house, Eligio del Horizonte.
We stayed here one night. We awake early to make our way to San Sebastian......
to be cont.
Sep 13th, 2010, 08:20 AM
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Nice report! Brownies and ice cram are almost a delicacy here! Actually, much taster than some wedding cakes i have been given! Many times there are two desserts.. the cake at the end.
Sounds like you had a good time.
Sounds like you had a good time.
Sep 13th, 2010, 01:53 PM
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Adu, Galicia in depth? Perhaps you could expand as I don't get it!
The Iglesia de Santiago is actually a mixture of styles so it is partly Romanesque (@ 12th centry) with a larger part dating from teh 15th so that part is Gothic.
http://www.coruna-virtual.com/iglesi...3-25-26-25.htm
You quite right Galicia is extremely well priced. Given the quality of the food is on par with the Basque land I do not know how it is done.
The Iglesia de Santiago is actually a mixture of styles so it is partly Romanesque (@ 12th centry) with a larger part dating from teh 15th so that part is Gothic.
http://www.coruna-virtual.com/iglesi...3-25-26-25.htm
You quite right Galicia is extremely well priced. Given the quality of the food is on par with the Basque land I do not know how it is done.
Sep 13th, 2010, 02:05 PM
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ribeirascara - I stand corrected,...or at least that should be corrected on the little brochure or info sheet that I picked up form there. That is how I "try" to peice together my trip reports.(receipts, postcards, brochures, a scribble of notes if I have time in my notebook.)
** on this trip, DH misplaced most of our restaurant receipts so I can not give a shout out to the fabulous names of the them.
** on this trip, DH misplaced most of our restaurant receipts so I can not give a shout out to the fabulous names of the them.
Sep 13th, 2010, 06:37 PM
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The Basque country-
We enjoyed the coastline, cuisine, historic villages, and the people.
The distinct traditional language is interesting albeit I could not understand any of it...
We made a short stop in Bilbao to see the Museo Guggenheim. The building itself is really the main attraction in my opinion. We drove to the Old Town- Siete Calles - busy with street life - great tapas bars.
From here we went stright to our Hotel in San Sebastian.
Hotel Maria Cristina. We had a beautiful suite with a view of the sea! We opened the balcony doors and soaked in the sea air.
The lobby is a bit dated with worn carpet, but appointed with beautiful antiques. The service was very good.
The bathroom was an amazing apple green marble with wonderful bath products. It had an amazing big sunken in bath tub.
After a full day of walking this beautiful city, some say the most beautiful city in Europe, we took advantage of the Hotle spa. It was modern with a turkish spa, water beds with bubble seats and Scottish rain showers. We loved it.
We began exploring the city by walking - we found it to be very cosmopolitan with old world charm....some great shopping too i might add!
The promenades around the beach were great for an early morning jog!
We ate at many memorable pintxos bars - every one of them very good. Our SPanish friends were given some reccomendations of some Michelin rated restaurants and every one of them was closed on the Monday night. We decided to just go and find something. We ended up at a remarkable little restaurant near the Old town off the beaten path. It was on the second floor of an old house. The food was fresh and outstanding - possibly one of the best meals I have ever had!
Starter a plate of jamon serano
next course - an amazing fish/ fresh local produce
next - Beef Wellington with a foi Gras sauce - OMG!!
bottle of red wine/bottle of white wine
a huge plate of sweets - coffee
total bill for 4 - $100 Euros!
We would have happily paid triple that!
I am sorry I do not have the name - I will ask DH to go through his computer bag again...
We enjoyed sampling local wine in this area too.
We tried to go to the Naval museum and Aquarium but it was closed.
We visited Iglesia de Santa Maria - cathedral built for the patron saint of the city. We paid a visit to The neo gothic Cathedral too.
We loved the Plaza de la Constitucion. The houses here that surround the square are numbered on the balcony dating from when the sqaure was used as a bullring and the balconies were seating for the public. Many great pintxos here!
WE stopped in several fishing villages on the way back to Madrid. Bermeo - a well known port on the Basque coast.
Lekeitio, Deba,Ondarroa and Getaria which is known for its wine production. Some villages we lingered in and had a meal, others we just drove through and enjoyed the summer day.
We stopped at Hondarribia too.
We wanted to stay longer but we had to get back to Madrid.
By the time we got to Madrid it was over 100 degrees. I missed that cool crisp weather of the North.
We stayed in Madrid for two days before heading home. WE mostly relaxed and spent time with our friends.
We thoroughly enjoyed the diversity , fascinating traditions and the lush landscapes of Northern Spain.
We enjoyed the coastline, cuisine, historic villages, and the people.
The distinct traditional language is interesting albeit I could not understand any of it...
We made a short stop in Bilbao to see the Museo Guggenheim. The building itself is really the main attraction in my opinion. We drove to the Old Town- Siete Calles - busy with street life - great tapas bars.
From here we went stright to our Hotel in San Sebastian.
Hotel Maria Cristina. We had a beautiful suite with a view of the sea! We opened the balcony doors and soaked in the sea air.
The lobby is a bit dated with worn carpet, but appointed with beautiful antiques. The service was very good.
The bathroom was an amazing apple green marble with wonderful bath products. It had an amazing big sunken in bath tub.
After a full day of walking this beautiful city, some say the most beautiful city in Europe, we took advantage of the Hotle spa. It was modern with a turkish spa, water beds with bubble seats and Scottish rain showers. We loved it.
We began exploring the city by walking - we found it to be very cosmopolitan with old world charm....some great shopping too i might add!
The promenades around the beach were great for an early morning jog!
We ate at many memorable pintxos bars - every one of them very good. Our SPanish friends were given some reccomendations of some Michelin rated restaurants and every one of them was closed on the Monday night. We decided to just go and find something. We ended up at a remarkable little restaurant near the Old town off the beaten path. It was on the second floor of an old house. The food was fresh and outstanding - possibly one of the best meals I have ever had!
Starter a plate of jamon serano
next course - an amazing fish/ fresh local produce
next - Beef Wellington with a foi Gras sauce - OMG!!
bottle of red wine/bottle of white wine
a huge plate of sweets - coffee
total bill for 4 - $100 Euros!
We would have happily paid triple that!
I am sorry I do not have the name - I will ask DH to go through his computer bag again...
We enjoyed sampling local wine in this area too.
We tried to go to the Naval museum and Aquarium but it was closed.
We visited Iglesia de Santa Maria - cathedral built for the patron saint of the city. We paid a visit to The neo gothic Cathedral too.
We loved the Plaza de la Constitucion. The houses here that surround the square are numbered on the balcony dating from when the sqaure was used as a bullring and the balconies were seating for the public. Many great pintxos here!
WE stopped in several fishing villages on the way back to Madrid. Bermeo - a well known port on the Basque coast.
Lekeitio, Deba,Ondarroa and Getaria which is known for its wine production. Some villages we lingered in and had a meal, others we just drove through and enjoyed the summer day.
We stopped at Hondarribia too.
We wanted to stay longer but we had to get back to Madrid.
By the time we got to Madrid it was over 100 degrees. I missed that cool crisp weather of the North.
We stayed in Madrid for two days before heading home. WE mostly relaxed and spent time with our friends.
We thoroughly enjoyed the diversity , fascinating traditions and the lush landscapes of Northern Spain.
Sep 13th, 2010, 07:25 PM
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Ribe
Most people do not get the oppertunity to visit with Gallegos and see the sights, the scenery, and the food. Most visitors are unaware of thr strong Celtic influence. It is more complete experience than most.
Most people do not get the oppertunity to visit with Gallegos and see the sights, the scenery, and the food. Most visitors are unaware of thr strong Celtic influence. It is more complete experience than most.
Sep 14th, 2010, 12:04 AM
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anne
Ref the brochure:
If it was in English I can guarantee it was badly translated. It is just the way this part of the world works.
Adu
Thanks for the explanation. Living here and amongst it all I was a bit blinked, maybe even blasé , about these sort of things.
Ref the brochure:
If it was in English I can guarantee it was badly translated. It is just the way this part of the world works.
Adu
Thanks for the explanation. Living here and amongst it all I was a bit blinked, maybe even blasé , about these sort of things.
Sep 14th, 2010, 05:15 AM
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that makes sense about the brochure - a lot can get get lost in the translation.....
A treat for us was having our Spanish friends sprinkle the trip with bits of folk lore, personal experiences, stories and history of the areas.
I was really surprized that we saw very few American tourists. The only place I recall seeing more than a few was in Santiago. I did not see that many in San Sebastian. And, it was the height of the tourist season I assume.
A treat for us was having our Spanish friends sprinkle the trip with bits of folk lore, personal experiences, stories and history of the areas.
I was really surprized that we saw very few American tourists. The only place I recall seeing more than a few was in Santiago. I did not see that many in San Sebastian. And, it was the height of the tourist season I assume.
Sep 14th, 2010, 05:38 AM
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As Anne noted, I have encountered few Americans who have more than a passing knowledge of Galicia. The irony is that most Spanish immigrants in the United States are from Galicia or the Basque country. Of course, there are others from other regions but they are outnumbered and there seems to be very few Catalans.
Basques were once recruited to go to places like Idaho to become shepherds.
Now there is an explosion of tapas restaurants in the United States. Some actually owned and run by Spaniards. Tapas have become so popular that other cuisines some restaurants ahve stolen the word tapas to describe small plates of food. For example I have seen Italian tapas or even Moroccan tapas offered on menus. They do not offer Spanish food but Italian and Moroccan. I have even seen people refer to Chinese tapas, even though they have longer tradition of small plates called dim sum.
Basques were once recruited to go to places like Idaho to become shepherds.
Now there is an explosion of tapas restaurants in the United States. Some actually owned and run by Spaniards. Tapas have become so popular that other cuisines some restaurants ahve stolen the word tapas to describe small plates of food. For example I have seen Italian tapas or even Moroccan tapas offered on menus. They do not offer Spanish food but Italian and Moroccan. I have even seen people refer to Chinese tapas, even though they have longer tradition of small plates called dim sum.
Sep 14th, 2010, 07:15 AM
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I wanted to make note of a great Italian Restaurant we visited in Madrid.
It was called Ilcsone located in Plaza de Olavide - Trafalgar,25.
There was outdoor seating under some trees. We drank Chianti and I experienced something I have never seen....
I ordered Risotto and it was black. I mean black as ink. I was stunned when I saw it and figured it was a mistake. our friend ordered the same and she said that is sometimes how it is served there. I dont recall why it had its black color.
It was quite possibly the best I have ever eaten.
Aduchamp - you were very helpful to me as I made perparations for this trip. YOur insights and experience were very beneficial. Thank you.
It was called Ilcsone located in Plaza de Olavide - Trafalgar,25.
There was outdoor seating under some trees. We drank Chianti and I experienced something I have never seen....
I ordered Risotto and it was black. I mean black as ink. I was stunned when I saw it and figured it was a mistake. our friend ordered the same and she said that is sometimes how it is served there. I dont recall why it had its black color.
It was quite possibly the best I have ever eaten.
Aduchamp - you were very helpful to me as I made perparations for this trip. YOur insights and experience were very beneficial. Thank you.
Sep 14th, 2010, 08:08 AM
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Your risotto was made with squid and it's ink. It's quite common in Spain. I remember seeing it my first trip and thinking it looked strange and although I'm very adventurous would never try it.....well, I couldn't resist the tempation to order after reading more about this dish. It is incredible and rich - hard to describe but very goodl
Sep 14th, 2010, 08:11 AM
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Great report Anne!
The risotto you had may have been black squid ink risotto. The first time I ever had it was in Hvar, Croatia and it was the most decadent tasting dish I had ever had...subsequent times I've had it have never measured up to the first I had in Croatia...sounds like I need to make a trip to Madrid to try it there!
The risotto you had may have been black squid ink risotto. The first time I ever had it was in Hvar, Croatia and it was the most decadent tasting dish I had ever had...subsequent times I've had it have never measured up to the first I had in Croatia...sounds like I need to make a trip to Madrid to try it there!
Sep 14th, 2010, 09:18 AM
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We travelled northern Spain several years ago and found it to be so different, strange and lovely. More like Ireland really, and even the music, bagpipes, etc. remind you that it is a Celtic culture, or was..We visited all the places you named, I think and would do it again in a heart beat...the food was different too.
Sep 14th, 2010, 11:52 AM
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Somewhere in N. Spain, in some small village, we parked the car, walked over a cobble stone bridge, and into a little cafe. Ordered the"menu del dia"..as we are so fond to do, and they brought us a gigantic trough of garbanzo beens, stewed together with chunks of pork fat...that one was a hard one to eat..but the people were so hospitable.
