North Lazio & SouthTuscany Brahmama's Italy Report 5/2006
May 30th, 2006, 07:14 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
North Lazio & SouthTuscany Brahmama's Italy Report 5/2006
Warning:
This will be long and detailed but hopefully there will be some information helpful to those who are researching their next trip. I always try to do a Trip Report and consider it pay back time for all the help I have received while planning our trips. I also hope you can stay awake while you are reading it!??Background info
This trip is a 2 week adventure in Southern Tuscany and Northern Lazio and is WAY off the Beaten Path for us! We are traveling with B & M - a couple in their 60's that we have traveled with before and are compatible in our travel styles. We are also in our 60's (but racing toward the 70's) ??We have rented an apartment with 2 BR and 2 Bath for 2 weeks in Proceno after seeing lovely pictures of the Castello di Proceno and reading wonderful reports of the location. We are renting a car in Orvieto to make excursions from our base.??Day by Day - Diary?Friday, May 5, 2006??Checked email and Fodor's and Slow Trav to see if there was anything new posted. Our flight left from DFW on an American 767 - non-stop to Zurich. It was on time and we had 2 of 3 seats in the middle. Usually we get a window seat, but to our surprise we have more legroom and wiggle room in the middle section. I ordered 2 bottles of red wine early to give them time to warm up a bit and settled in. I am one of the truly weird people who can find airline food edible (most of the time.) American didn't disappoint me. (Ok, ok, quit rolling your eyes!) Maybe the red wine had something to do with it. Anyway, it was a long flight - 9 hours plus. The seats were uncomfortable and I resorted to sitting on our pillows. We arrived in Zurich on time but then had 5 hour wait for our connection to Rome. That seemed longer than the flight getting there.??The short flight to Rome was on Swiss Air and it was more comfortable than American, but they didn't have room for Will's carry-on and took it away to check it through. We had a cheese sandwich with cucumber and I had red wine. (Do you see a pattern here?) We arrived on time, picked up our luggage and sent out to get Euros from the ATM and find our ride sent from the Castello. ??He was going to carry a picture of a castle, but we couldn't spot him at first. After about 15 minutes, (and many Wannabee Drivers offering to take us Somewhere, ANYWHERE and assuring us that we had been forgotten) Carlo walked up and we were loaded quickly in a little car (his broke down at the last minute) and we zoomed off for Proceno. It took a little less than 2 hours. As we lurched around the curves, the 3 of us in the back became even more friendly!??Saturday, May 6,2006?We unloaded and drug our suitcases up a steep slope and then up the stairs that we would grow to fear, despise and finally tolerate! The view of the town was amazing. ??We were a bit disappointed though when we first walked up to our apartment. I had been anticipating staying IN a CASTLE! You know the scene, the big wooden door would creak majestically open, and then shut with an echoing ominous thud. - We would walk gingerly down to our apartment, gazing on both sides at the pictures and the knights of armor in awe and feeling a little uneasy.??NOT to happen!??(To be Continued)??
This will be long and detailed but hopefully there will be some information helpful to those who are researching their next trip. I always try to do a Trip Report and consider it pay back time for all the help I have received while planning our trips. I also hope you can stay awake while you are reading it!??Background info
This trip is a 2 week adventure in Southern Tuscany and Northern Lazio and is WAY off the Beaten Path for us! We are traveling with B & M - a couple in their 60's that we have traveled with before and are compatible in our travel styles. We are also in our 60's (but racing toward the 70's) ??We have rented an apartment with 2 BR and 2 Bath for 2 weeks in Proceno after seeing lovely pictures of the Castello di Proceno and reading wonderful reports of the location. We are renting a car in Orvieto to make excursions from our base.??Day by Day - Diary?Friday, May 5, 2006??Checked email and Fodor's and Slow Trav to see if there was anything new posted. Our flight left from DFW on an American 767 - non-stop to Zurich. It was on time and we had 2 of 3 seats in the middle. Usually we get a window seat, but to our surprise we have more legroom and wiggle room in the middle section. I ordered 2 bottles of red wine early to give them time to warm up a bit and settled in. I am one of the truly weird people who can find airline food edible (most of the time.) American didn't disappoint me. (Ok, ok, quit rolling your eyes!) Maybe the red wine had something to do with it. Anyway, it was a long flight - 9 hours plus. The seats were uncomfortable and I resorted to sitting on our pillows. We arrived in Zurich on time but then had 5 hour wait for our connection to Rome. That seemed longer than the flight getting there.??The short flight to Rome was on Swiss Air and it was more comfortable than American, but they didn't have room for Will's carry-on and took it away to check it through. We had a cheese sandwich with cucumber and I had red wine. (Do you see a pattern here?) We arrived on time, picked up our luggage and sent out to get Euros from the ATM and find our ride sent from the Castello. ??He was going to carry a picture of a castle, but we couldn't spot him at first. After about 15 minutes, (and many Wannabee Drivers offering to take us Somewhere, ANYWHERE and assuring us that we had been forgotten) Carlo walked up and we were loaded quickly in a little car (his broke down at the last minute) and we zoomed off for Proceno. It took a little less than 2 hours. As we lurched around the curves, the 3 of us in the back became even more friendly!??Saturday, May 6,2006?We unloaded and drug our suitcases up a steep slope and then up the stairs that we would grow to fear, despise and finally tolerate! The view of the town was amazing. ??We were a bit disappointed though when we first walked up to our apartment. I had been anticipating staying IN a CASTLE! You know the scene, the big wooden door would creak majestically open, and then shut with an echoing ominous thud. - We would walk gingerly down to our apartment, gazing on both sides at the pictures and the knights of armor in awe and feeling a little uneasy.??NOT to happen!??(To be Continued)??
May 30th, 2006, 08:35 AM
#2
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Already, an apology.
I d/l it from a word processor and lost all my paragraphs, etc etc.
I'll do better with the next segment.
Is there anyway I can fix this? Edit or remove it completely?
Carol
I d/l it from a word processor and lost all my paragraphs, etc etc.
I'll do better with the next segment.
Is there anyway I can fix this? Edit or remove it completely?
Carol
May 30th, 2006, 02:02 PM
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Saturday, May 6,2006
We unloaded and dragged our suitcases up a steep slope and then up the stonestairs that we would grow to fear, despise and finally tolerate! The view of the town was amazing.
We were a bit disappointed though when we first walked up to our apartment. I had been anticipating staying IN a CASTLE! You know the scene, the big wooden door would creak majestically open, and then shut with an echoing ominous thud. - We would walk gingerly down to our apartment, gazing on both sides at the pictures and the knights of armor in awe and feeling a little uneasy.
Not to happen! Our apartment - called ESTATE for summer - was part of what used to be the guard house next to the entry. And of course, the pictures never look like they do on the internet! But we both had a nice-sized bedroom and a tiny bath. The shower was so small that both the men had big problems getting in it. There were 2 12 inch panels on each side of the corner that slid apart (get the picture? I wanted one of Will entering this shower, but was refused). We had a hairdryer and bidet in each bath.
Our window looked out into another apartment that was being renovated, and B & M had the view of a patio. The beds were the Matrimonials with 2 beds pushed together and a bit of a lump in the middle. But we like a hard bed, and this didn't disappoint. It was the hardest bed we had ever slept on and we slept very well every night. There was a safe in our bedroom, but it was never unlocked so we couldn't use it.
The large living/dining area had beautiful views over the country side, and the tiny kitchen had a lovely view as well. We had a large fireplace with wood furnished in a drawer underneath. The living room had a sofa with springs and a 3/4 pillow and a roll to sit on. It was not comfortable, but we learned to bring out pillows and blankets as we sat there every evening for a couple of hours. The men each had a chair, but it was small and not comfortable. More pillows! We had a lovely huge dining table with 6 chairs and spent time at it, working on our diaries and playing Yahtzee, etc.
It is important that I make it clear that every apartment was different, and probably some had very comfortable furniture - I just know about Estate, the one that we stayed in for 2 weeks.
We unpacked quickly and checked the kitchen for supplies. Pucci had left us a bottle of red wine and the previous tenant had left a sizable portion of salt and half of a bottle of basalmic vinegar. The first thing was to get groceries, as it was Saturday and nothing at all would be open on Sunday! So we went right across our street to Roberto's Alimentary and stocked up on fruit, veggies, milk, bread, eggs, rice, mushrooms, wine, etc. It was so much fun to shop Italian and get to try out my Italian. Roberto was always very patient and helpful.
We took the food back up to the apartment and unpacked. Then we walked up and down the streets through the tiny little town, ooing and awing and taking pictures as if there was no tomorrow. What a gorgeous unspoiled little town. Pucci had emailed me that they were having a wedding at the castle and we wouldn't be able to eat there that night, so we made a reservation at the end of the street at the Bar/Restaurant. It was open only Friday night, Sat noon and night and Sun noon and night.
We cleaned up and went for our first real meal in Italy! It was very nice and a fun place to eat. The restaurant was above the bar and had only been open a couple of years. It was packed, but we were there by 7:45 and the first ones there. We ordered the della vino which was a Rosso di Montepulciano and it was very nice indeed. We ordered the casa bruschetta (tomatoes, beans and plain (garlic) and pizza. Will had the 4 cheese, I had the 4 Quarters, (Stagione) with eggplant, artichokes, olives and tomatoes. We waddled back and fell in bed about 10:00 totally exhausted but happy.
We unloaded and dragged our suitcases up a steep slope and then up the stonestairs that we would grow to fear, despise and finally tolerate! The view of the town was amazing.
We were a bit disappointed though when we first walked up to our apartment. I had been anticipating staying IN a CASTLE! You know the scene, the big wooden door would creak majestically open, and then shut with an echoing ominous thud. - We would walk gingerly down to our apartment, gazing on both sides at the pictures and the knights of armor in awe and feeling a little uneasy.
Not to happen! Our apartment - called ESTATE for summer - was part of what used to be the guard house next to the entry. And of course, the pictures never look like they do on the internet! But we both had a nice-sized bedroom and a tiny bath. The shower was so small that both the men had big problems getting in it. There were 2 12 inch panels on each side of the corner that slid apart (get the picture? I wanted one of Will entering this shower, but was refused). We had a hairdryer and bidet in each bath.
Our window looked out into another apartment that was being renovated, and B & M had the view of a patio. The beds were the Matrimonials with 2 beds pushed together and a bit of a lump in the middle. But we like a hard bed, and this didn't disappoint. It was the hardest bed we had ever slept on and we slept very well every night. There was a safe in our bedroom, but it was never unlocked so we couldn't use it.
The large living/dining area had beautiful views over the country side, and the tiny kitchen had a lovely view as well. We had a large fireplace with wood furnished in a drawer underneath. The living room had a sofa with springs and a 3/4 pillow and a roll to sit on. It was not comfortable, but we learned to bring out pillows and blankets as we sat there every evening for a couple of hours. The men each had a chair, but it was small and not comfortable. More pillows! We had a lovely huge dining table with 6 chairs and spent time at it, working on our diaries and playing Yahtzee, etc.
It is important that I make it clear that every apartment was different, and probably some had very comfortable furniture - I just know about Estate, the one that we stayed in for 2 weeks.
We unpacked quickly and checked the kitchen for supplies. Pucci had left us a bottle of red wine and the previous tenant had left a sizable portion of salt and half of a bottle of basalmic vinegar. The first thing was to get groceries, as it was Saturday and nothing at all would be open on Sunday! So we went right across our street to Roberto's Alimentary and stocked up on fruit, veggies, milk, bread, eggs, rice, mushrooms, wine, etc. It was so much fun to shop Italian and get to try out my Italian. Roberto was always very patient and helpful.
We took the food back up to the apartment and unpacked. Then we walked up and down the streets through the tiny little town, ooing and awing and taking pictures as if there was no tomorrow. What a gorgeous unspoiled little town. Pucci had emailed me that they were having a wedding at the castle and we wouldn't be able to eat there that night, so we made a reservation at the end of the street at the Bar/Restaurant. It was open only Friday night, Sat noon and night and Sun noon and night.
We cleaned up and went for our first real meal in Italy! It was very nice and a fun place to eat. The restaurant was above the bar and had only been open a couple of years. It was packed, but we were there by 7:45 and the first ones there. We ordered the della vino which was a Rosso di Montepulciano and it was very nice indeed. We ordered the casa bruschetta (tomatoes, beans and plain (garlic) and pizza. Will had the 4 cheese, I had the 4 Quarters, (Stagione) with eggplant, artichokes, olives and tomatoes. We waddled back and fell in bed about 10:00 totally exhausted but happy.
May 31st, 2006, 10:58 AM
#7
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Carol, I didn't see your thread started yesterday until right now. What a fun read! And I chuckled over the uncomfortable sofa and chairs..I have had that happen. But at least they are better then the airline seats in couch..one can strech out, right?
I am looking forward to more of your report.
I am looking forward to more of your report.
May 31st, 2006, 06:31 PM
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the encouragment and kind words, Henry, Jody, and Love. I will continue! I thought maybe I was boring people to death.... Jody, I have wonderful pics - but not ready to post yet.
May 31st, 2006, 06:36 PM
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sunday May 7 2006
I woke up around 10:00 thinking it was early as the shutter was closed and it was pitch-dark. What a great night's sleep!We didn't hear anything from the apartment upstairs at all.
But on some of the following nights, we couldn't hear conversation (just some laughter) but oh the high heels! Tapping throughout the apartment and surely they were bowling up there one night! (Dropping luggage? Rolling it around?) I will say that the noise usually stopped around 11:30 PM and it was quiet through the night.
I tapped on B&M's door thinking they had gone for a walk, but no, they were asleep as well! So we all got rid of jet lag right there and then. We had coffees and cornettos (croissants) and went down to explore some more.
We still haven't met anyone but Carlo (who met us at the airport) as the owners were very busy with the wedding. But we saw Cecilia as we were walking down the street and she told us that the Garden Restaurant would be opened for Sunday dinner. As this was the only time it would be open while we were staying here, we were glad to have an opportunity to see it and eat there.
We walked down at 1:00 but were too early, so we walked around the beautiful garden and sat on the patio until she came out and got our orders for antipasto. After it was ready, we entered the restaurant. It was very attractive and we enjoyed looking at all the decorative bits.
Our antipasto was delicious. After a while she returned & asked if we wanted more to eat and we heartily agreed that we did. We each had a meat course - I thought mine was veal, but it was very tender beef in a sauce with (maybe?) a mound of parsnips in the middle. Anyway, it was delicious. The other 3 had pork chops. We had both red & white wine.
After a nice leisurely 3 hour lunch, we climbed back up to our room and took a 2 hour rest. This pattern repeated almost every day!
When we woke, we went for a stroll and had a gelato at the Bar/Ristorante at the end of town. Mine was limone and fantastic.
Later that evening I fixed an arugala fritata for a light supper.
Tomorrow we go to Orvieto, get our car, and AWAY WE GO!
I woke up around 10:00 thinking it was early as the shutter was closed and it was pitch-dark. What a great night's sleep!We didn't hear anything from the apartment upstairs at all.
But on some of the following nights, we couldn't hear conversation (just some laughter) but oh the high heels! Tapping throughout the apartment and surely they were bowling up there one night! (Dropping luggage? Rolling it around?) I will say that the noise usually stopped around 11:30 PM and it was quiet through the night.
I tapped on B&M's door thinking they had gone for a walk, but no, they were asleep as well! So we all got rid of jet lag right there and then. We had coffees and cornettos (croissants) and went down to explore some more.
We still haven't met anyone but Carlo (who met us at the airport) as the owners were very busy with the wedding. But we saw Cecilia as we were walking down the street and she told us that the Garden Restaurant would be opened for Sunday dinner. As this was the only time it would be open while we were staying here, we were glad to have an opportunity to see it and eat there.
We walked down at 1:00 but were too early, so we walked around the beautiful garden and sat on the patio until she came out and got our orders for antipasto. After it was ready, we entered the restaurant. It was very attractive and we enjoyed looking at all the decorative bits.
Our antipasto was delicious. After a while she returned & asked if we wanted more to eat and we heartily agreed that we did. We each had a meat course - I thought mine was veal, but it was very tender beef in a sauce with (maybe?) a mound of parsnips in the middle. Anyway, it was delicious. The other 3 had pork chops. We had both red & white wine.
After a nice leisurely 3 hour lunch, we climbed back up to our room and took a 2 hour rest. This pattern repeated almost every day!
When we woke, we went for a stroll and had a gelato at the Bar/Ristorante at the end of town. Mine was limone and fantastic.
Later that evening I fixed an arugala fritata for a light supper.
Tomorrow we go to Orvieto, get our car, and AWAY WE GO!
May 31st, 2006, 06:38 PM
#10
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh Carol, you are not boring me! I was chuckling and smiling reading your trip report. And I could relate to so many of your comments. Please continue telling us about your trip. P.S. I sure could relate to the red wine too,lol!!
Jun 2nd, 2006, 04:15 AM
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As I'm cutting and pasting (and reading it again) I realize that it's all about FOOD! Honestly we did do other things - we didn't eat ALL the time. Oh well.
Monday May 8 2006
Up at 7:00 for coffee and rolls. Bought more fresh produce from Roberto. (such fun!) I needed leaves of fresh sage for my Tuscan bean soup, but couldn't figure out the word. Finally I found some ground sage and showed it to him - and the word "Fresca" served me well. He thought for a minute and then disappeared and returned with a few leaves of sage! (and the word was salvia) When he realized I was cooking Ribolleta, he had some advice and gave me a few more leaves of something else (!) for the soup. And I added them too.
Then Carlo took us to Orvieto to get our rental car. A nice 4 door Fiat which had very few miles on it. We parked it at the Underground and went up to Orvieto to see the Duomo which was fantastic. As we leaving the Chapel with the Frescos, they were locking the doors, so we made a good decision to go there first thing. I had thought that the churches would be open in the afternoon period, but not today. It was a gorgeous church. We spent time in front just looking at it.
We decided to walk down to the Pozzo de Patricio also. It was farther than we had thought and sloped downhill all the way. Luckily there were buses there & we hopped on one to return to the center.
We walked a couple of blocks past the Duomo to the Trattoria de Moro which a very friendly local man had recommended to us when we were down by the Pozzo. We arrived about 15 minutes before closing time at 2:00. Our travel angel was perched on our shoulder again! We ordered the Tourista Menu and were all happy with our choices. I had vedure zuppa, salad with incredible tomatoes; then roast chicken, Strawberries for dolce, and bottled water and red wine. 15 euro inclusive of pan and coperto.( I also ordered 4 Euro artichokes on the side.)Will had a pasta instead of the soup and a pork chop instead of the chicken. We were both very happy with our selections. The waitress was more than friendly and helpful.
We walked leisurely back to the parking garage and finally figured out how to get the heck out of Dodge! The machine wouldn't take the ticket we had gotten earlier and a voice gave us instructions in Italian (rapid instructions!) We picked up enough to understand that we had to take the ticket to a building. Will walked around the garage - went up 2 flights and found a little building. Allora!
We drove back in misting rain to Proceno. We rested and read. We had a lovely fire and a light supper of strawberries, cheese, olives etc after bruschetta made in the fireplace - then topped with olive oil and rubbed with garlic. (and salted!)
Monday May 8 2006
Up at 7:00 for coffee and rolls. Bought more fresh produce from Roberto. (such fun!) I needed leaves of fresh sage for my Tuscan bean soup, but couldn't figure out the word. Finally I found some ground sage and showed it to him - and the word "Fresca" served me well. He thought for a minute and then disappeared and returned with a few leaves of sage! (and the word was salvia) When he realized I was cooking Ribolleta, he had some advice and gave me a few more leaves of something else (!) for the soup. And I added them too.
Then Carlo took us to Orvieto to get our rental car. A nice 4 door Fiat which had very few miles on it. We parked it at the Underground and went up to Orvieto to see the Duomo which was fantastic. As we leaving the Chapel with the Frescos, they were locking the doors, so we made a good decision to go there first thing. I had thought that the churches would be open in the afternoon period, but not today. It was a gorgeous church. We spent time in front just looking at it.
We decided to walk down to the Pozzo de Patricio also. It was farther than we had thought and sloped downhill all the way. Luckily there were buses there & we hopped on one to return to the center.
We walked a couple of blocks past the Duomo to the Trattoria de Moro which a very friendly local man had recommended to us when we were down by the Pozzo. We arrived about 15 minutes before closing time at 2:00. Our travel angel was perched on our shoulder again! We ordered the Tourista Menu and were all happy with our choices. I had vedure zuppa, salad with incredible tomatoes; then roast chicken, Strawberries for dolce, and bottled water and red wine. 15 euro inclusive of pan and coperto.( I also ordered 4 Euro artichokes on the side.)Will had a pasta instead of the soup and a pork chop instead of the chicken. We were both very happy with our selections. The waitress was more than friendly and helpful.
We walked leisurely back to the parking garage and finally figured out how to get the heck out of Dodge! The machine wouldn't take the ticket we had gotten earlier and a voice gave us instructions in Italian (rapid instructions!) We picked up enough to understand that we had to take the ticket to a building. Will walked around the garage - went up 2 flights and found a little building. Allora!
We drove back in misting rain to Proceno. We rested and read. We had a lovely fire and a light supper of strawberries, cheese, olives etc after bruschetta made in the fireplace - then topped with olive oil and rubbed with garlic. (and salted!)
Jun 3rd, 2006, 09:20 AM
#14
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,860
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brahmama -
I fnally had a chance to read this and have really enjoyed it! Makes me homesick for Italy - even tho' I don't live there I feel it is "home" after just one visit.
Thank you and . . . more, please!
Linda
I fnally had a chance to read this and have really enjoyed it! Makes me homesick for Italy - even tho' I don't live there I feel it is "home" after just one visit.
Thank you and . . . more, please!
Linda
Jun 3rd, 2006, 10:41 AM
#15
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the encouragement and there is (a lot) more to come, but first:
Jody, this is for you!
Carol's Arugala Fritatta
Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
2 large spring onions - cut stems into 1/4 inch slices. Cut bulb in half and dice. 5 cloves garlic, minced. (We really like garlic!)
In medium bowl, whisk 8 eggs, 1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano, 1/4 c water, 1/2 tsp salt, and 1/4 tsp ground pepper.
In big black skillet, heat 2 tsp evoo. Add onions & 1 cup sliced mushrooms. Sauté until golden brown and soft. Add a collander full of arugala. Cook & stir until wilted. Spread onion mixture evenly in skillet. Pour the egg mixture over the onion mixture; do not stir. Return to medium-high heat and cook 2 to 3 minutes or until eggs set around the edge.
Place skillet in oven; bake 9 min- until set. Slide fritatta onto cutting board. Cut into wedges. Enjoy!
I'll add more tonight. Have broken my glasses and must get them fixed. Am NOT looking through rose-colored glasses at this particular time. (snarl)
Jody, this is for you!
Carol's Arugala Fritatta
Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
2 large spring onions - cut stems into 1/4 inch slices. Cut bulb in half and dice. 5 cloves garlic, minced. (We really like garlic!)
In medium bowl, whisk 8 eggs, 1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano, 1/4 c water, 1/2 tsp salt, and 1/4 tsp ground pepper.
In big black skillet, heat 2 tsp evoo. Add onions & 1 cup sliced mushrooms. Sauté until golden brown and soft. Add a collander full of arugala. Cook & stir until wilted. Spread onion mixture evenly in skillet. Pour the egg mixture over the onion mixture; do not stir. Return to medium-high heat and cook 2 to 3 minutes or until eggs set around the edge.
Place skillet in oven; bake 9 min- until set. Slide fritatta onto cutting board. Cut into wedges. Enjoy!
I'll add more tonight. Have broken my glasses and must get them fixed. Am NOT looking through rose-colored glasses at this particular time. (snarl)
Jun 3rd, 2006, 01:20 PM
#16
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Carol, your receipe is almost the same as my dear late FIL's..the only dish he knew how to cook. And consequently you remind me I need to prepare that omelette soon, it is sooooo good! Best wishes!
Jun 4th, 2006, 01:11 PM
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Linda,
So glad I refreshed your memory. It's such a simple, yet elegant dish.
And today I had good friends over for their first risotto - how fun it is to cook Italian dishes for people who think it's all "Spaghetti and Meat Balls"!
Lovelady-
We truly never had a bad red wine the whole time we were on our trip. Some were better than others - but they were all very drinkable. Did you have the same experience?
Tuesday May 9, 2006
Up at 7:00. Oatmeal, toast and yogurt for breakfast. We waited around until 10:00 and then walked up to Cecilia's door for our castle tour. However, she came to the door and said that it was too wet and it would be better another nicer day. She gave us some maps for the Etruscan cities about 30 miles to our west.
So we drove to Sorano, Savana and Pitigliano. This was our first experience watching road signs for the names of the cities - and we did think we were in Sorano, when it was just the area/township ? of Sorano. So we parked and walked through this tiny little village and wondered what all the fuss was about. We turned one way and dead-ended, so we retraced our steps and of course found a hill at the end with a church on it. So we walked up. As we walked, the wind began to blow harder and harder until we were at the top, but all bent over, and then we felt the moisture in the air. So we knew it would rain and the wind virtually blew us down the hill. As soon as we were down, the wind stopped and the day continued without any weather problems. But we were zoned out about this church and it's unfriendly (more than that) attitude, and we got in the car and left as soon as possible! I would like to know the history of that little town - and that church, but we never even figured out its name. (A weird and creepy experience)
After getting back on the highway, we realized that Sorano was still quite a distance away. The view of Sorano from the highway was incredible. We stopped and took pictures from the river valley far below.
We drove into the city, but Tuesday was the market day and there was no parking available and we were still virgin drivers, so we left and drove on to Savana. It was the smallest of the 3 and we were about the only people in sight. We walked around the little town. B & M went to the Fortress ruin at one end of the street and Will and I went to the Duomo. How strange to find a Duomo in this very tiny town. It dated from the Etruscan time and was very interesting. We walked back to the middle. This is still not the Tourist Season in Italy, but they were certainly preparing for it. Repairing buildings in the Etruscan style was the order of the day and there were lots of little eating places.
We left there and drove a few miles to Pitigliano and again the parking was impossible. So we decided to return home but to stop at Sorano on the way and find a place to eat. What a great decision! The market was over; we parked wherever we liked and found a great little ristorante - Ristorrante Fidalmo. We had a wonderful meal, and the nicest people - so friendly. We found people very appreciative of the fact that we tried to communicate in Italian. They would laugh and correct us, but they would beam at us and kept telling us that our Italiano was molto bene! We ordered the house Rosso again and I ordered Ensalata with tomatoes, Ravioli and veal scallopine with the vegetable of the day - greens. The lady brought us complimentary vin santo with biscotti. The others had about the same with chicken. The ticket for the four of us was 65 Euro.
We shared pictures and hugs with the lady who was the owner and then went almost next door to the olive wood shop. We were fortunate that he was still open. We bought everything there from a risotto spoon, cheese grater in an olive wood dish, a cross for our youngest daughter's collection, an olive oil cruet for another daughter, and an olive wood bracelet for yet another. We bought egg cups, magnets etc. It should have been about 75 Euro but at 60 Euro he stopped and said that was enough. Basta! So we shared pictures, and hugs once more.
And he followed us to the street, where the lady from Fidalmo joined us again! Their English and my Italian and our body language were about the same level and we were all having a good time. As you can tell, we loved Sorano. We found a little shop where the lady wove her own wool, dyed it and made garments, but didn't have anymore time. I think I'd got back there and find a B&B for a few days.
Back to Proceno and our nap. B fixed her favorite pasta dish - which was delicious - and Will and I made a salad. I put some white beans to soak for lunch tomorrow. We were all tired by 10:00, but enjoyed the fire that M built - until our eyes wouldn't stay open anymore.
So glad I refreshed your memory. It's such a simple, yet elegant dish.
And today I had good friends over for their first risotto - how fun it is to cook Italian dishes for people who think it's all "Spaghetti and Meat Balls"!
Lovelady-
We truly never had a bad red wine the whole time we were on our trip. Some were better than others - but they were all very drinkable. Did you have the same experience?
Tuesday May 9, 2006
Up at 7:00. Oatmeal, toast and yogurt for breakfast. We waited around until 10:00 and then walked up to Cecilia's door for our castle tour. However, she came to the door and said that it was too wet and it would be better another nicer day. She gave us some maps for the Etruscan cities about 30 miles to our west.
So we drove to Sorano, Savana and Pitigliano. This was our first experience watching road signs for the names of the cities - and we did think we were in Sorano, when it was just the area/township ? of Sorano. So we parked and walked through this tiny little village and wondered what all the fuss was about. We turned one way and dead-ended, so we retraced our steps and of course found a hill at the end with a church on it. So we walked up. As we walked, the wind began to blow harder and harder until we were at the top, but all bent over, and then we felt the moisture in the air. So we knew it would rain and the wind virtually blew us down the hill. As soon as we were down, the wind stopped and the day continued without any weather problems. But we were zoned out about this church and it's unfriendly (more than that) attitude, and we got in the car and left as soon as possible! I would like to know the history of that little town - and that church, but we never even figured out its name. (A weird and creepy experience)
After getting back on the highway, we realized that Sorano was still quite a distance away. The view of Sorano from the highway was incredible. We stopped and took pictures from the river valley far below.
We drove into the city, but Tuesday was the market day and there was no parking available and we were still virgin drivers, so we left and drove on to Savana. It was the smallest of the 3 and we were about the only people in sight. We walked around the little town. B & M went to the Fortress ruin at one end of the street and Will and I went to the Duomo. How strange to find a Duomo in this very tiny town. It dated from the Etruscan time and was very interesting. We walked back to the middle. This is still not the Tourist Season in Italy, but they were certainly preparing for it. Repairing buildings in the Etruscan style was the order of the day and there were lots of little eating places.
We left there and drove a few miles to Pitigliano and again the parking was impossible. So we decided to return home but to stop at Sorano on the way and find a place to eat. What a great decision! The market was over; we parked wherever we liked and found a great little ristorante - Ristorrante Fidalmo. We had a wonderful meal, and the nicest people - so friendly. We found people very appreciative of the fact that we tried to communicate in Italian. They would laugh and correct us, but they would beam at us and kept telling us that our Italiano was molto bene! We ordered the house Rosso again and I ordered Ensalata with tomatoes, Ravioli and veal scallopine with the vegetable of the day - greens. The lady brought us complimentary vin santo with biscotti. The others had about the same with chicken. The ticket for the four of us was 65 Euro.
We shared pictures and hugs with the lady who was the owner and then went almost next door to the olive wood shop. We were fortunate that he was still open. We bought everything there from a risotto spoon, cheese grater in an olive wood dish, a cross for our youngest daughter's collection, an olive oil cruet for another daughter, and an olive wood bracelet for yet another. We bought egg cups, magnets etc. It should have been about 75 Euro but at 60 Euro he stopped and said that was enough. Basta! So we shared pictures, and hugs once more.
And he followed us to the street, where the lady from Fidalmo joined us again! Their English and my Italian and our body language were about the same level and we were all having a good time. As you can tell, we loved Sorano. We found a little shop where the lady wove her own wool, dyed it and made garments, but didn't have anymore time. I think I'd got back there and find a B&B for a few days.
Back to Proceno and our nap. B fixed her favorite pasta dish - which was delicious - and Will and I made a salad. I put some white beans to soak for lunch tomorrow. We were all tired by 10:00, but enjoyed the fire that M built - until our eyes wouldn't stay open anymore.
Jun 4th, 2006, 02:45 PM
#19
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh Carol, isn't is wonderful to get to out of the way places in Italy! Your experiences touch my heart and bring back memories of small town Italians and their joy of life and love for people!! I haven't been to any of these little places you went to..but have been to others..and I have always said Italians are so patient with my miserable Italian, lol.
Red wine, white wine, Carol I don't ever recall having a terrible glass of wine in Italy. Some better than others of course. And of all my trips to Italy I only had one meal I could not eat..it was gross! A seafood salad that had tons of a bad tasting olive oil on it (and I love Italian olive oil) along with a rancid mayonnaise. Nastiest dish I have ever tasted. Two bites and I stopped, and the waiter got mad at me, lol. I went to bed hungry
Well one time I did end up with food poisoning, the night before we flew home (that was terrible) but the dinner tasted good!
I am so enjoying your trip report..and I am so missing Italy!
Red wine, white wine, Carol I don't ever recall having a terrible glass of wine in Italy. Some better than others of course. And of all my trips to Italy I only had one meal I could not eat..it was gross! A seafood salad that had tons of a bad tasting olive oil on it (and I love Italian olive oil) along with a rancid mayonnaise. Nastiest dish I have ever tasted. Two bites and I stopped, and the waiter got mad at me, lol. I went to bed hungry
Well one time I did end up with food poisoning, the night before we flew home (that was terrible) but the dinner tasted good!
I am so enjoying your trip report..and I am so missing Italy!
Jun 6th, 2006, 02:31 AM
#20
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,247
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Grazie , Carol! Dinner tonight!!!
What a wonderful adventure with warm ,friendly people and good food! The church story was a bit creepy though...I think I'd stay away from there!
Sounds like this turned out to be the perfect trip and we want to hear more.
What a wonderful adventure with warm ,friendly people and good food! The church story was a bit creepy though...I think I'd stay away from there!
Sounds like this turned out to be the perfect trip and we want to hear more.
