isabel

I'm in the early stages of planning a trip for July 2005 and trying to decide between 3 nights in Arles or Nimes. Or possibly two in one and one in the other. From what I've heard, Arles is the more pleasant town but it seems Nimes is better located to the other sites we want to see.

We will be two couples traveling for two weeks. Of the four I am the only one who has been to this area and I did Avignon, Aix, St Remy, Les Baux, and Gordes on that trip so would like to see some of the other towns. But I also want to give the others a chance to see the most interesting things in the area. The main things I want to see are Nimes and Arles themselves, Pond du Gard, Uzes and possibly Roussillon. We only have about three days in this area. We start in Barcelona for 3 nights, Carcassonne for 1. Then after Provence we will have 3 nights in Vence and the last 3 in Italy. I'm trying for as many 3 night stays as possible as oppossed to one and two night stays. On the other hand a lot of backtracking doesn't make much sense either. Obviously we will have a car.

So, opinions please.

rex

It's a good question, and I predict that there won't be a consensus answer. I would love to visit Nimes sometime. And Arles is excellent - - would love to go back.

Best wishes,

Rex

dln

Isabel, Nimes and Arles are so close that it's six of one or half a dozen of the other which one you choose! It really doesn't matter. Both are nice towns.

If you're in the area on a Saturday, don't miss the market at Uzes--it's a wonderful thing to see. Get there before noon, though, since that's when it ends. Aigues-Mortes is another town you won't want to miss, and as a bonus you get to see the Camargue if you drive there.

Underhill

The Saturday market--huge--in Arles is also a good one. If you are staying in the town, you might be within walking distance: useful, as parking can be very scarce.

My preference would be for Arles, which we found had more of a small-town feel to it and more of interest to see.

cigalechanta

Either would be good. In Arles, we have stayed at the Nord Pinus and the Calendal. Both have parking. We have only done day trips to Nimes.
But you would be closer to Uzes and Pont de Gard if in Nimes.

Giovanna

We loved Arles, particularly the "old city." We too stayed at the Calendal which I highly recommend. We spent a short time in Nimes, mainly to see the arena, on our way back from Pont du Gard. Lots to see in Arles, but it is true Arles and Nimes are close together.

Personally I wouldn't want 2 nights in one and 1 in the other, because I don't like moving, packing and unpacking that often. But based on another thread, you don't mind short stays in cities and including many more cities than would be my taste, so perhaps that would work for you.

isabel

It sounds like Arles would be the more pleasant place to base ourselves so we will probably do that. Our third day will be a Saturday so knowing about the market on that day is another reason to stay there. So thanks.

One thing I have always heard is that it's important to get to the Pont du Gard quite early or else it's overrun with tour groups. I think it's about 45 minutes from Arles. Can anyone confirm that? Or give any other experiences with visiting Pond du Gard. Unfortunatley it will be July so I do expect crowds. Since I always travel in July I'm used to them, but I do try for stratagies to make them less of a negative.

Also, do you have the websites for the Hotel Calendal (or anyone else with web sites for good, moderately priced hotels). Thanks

flygirl

I don't know if this would tip the balance, but, if one of them happens to have some sort of sporting event scheduled in their ancient Roman arena on your dates of travel, that would be well worth it to go, and marvel at a 2000 year old arena still being used for group events!

Giovanna

isabrel: We travel in spring so I can't predict crowds in July. One thing I would suggest is to walk across the bridge and at some point before you leave go to the opposite side. If you are there toward afternoon the bridge reflects in the river and we got some terrific pictures. There were some canoes on the river that also added to the serene feeling about the river.

Hotel Calendal is wonderful. We had Chambre 4, which has a large terrace, fairly sizey room, good bathroom, and wonderful views with the old Roman theater across the street and the arena almost next door. We bought sandwiches, wine, etc. across the street and to the left of the hotel and had a wonderful picnic on the terrace the day before we left.

Website: http://www.lecalendal.com/
Email: [email protected]

They offered tea/drinks each afternoon (not included). The breakfast room was bright and comfortable and complimentary breakfast was a cut above most. There is a lovely courtyard where you might like to have breakfast. There are several restaurants nearby that we thought were quite good, especially L'Escaladou.

In Arles, we visited the beautiful cloister at Saint Trophime, L'Espace Van Gogh, Musee Arlaten, Roman arena and theater. There are also baths but we never got there.

We enjoyed a nature walk at the Reserve Nationale de Camargue.

In Nimes, both the arena and the Roman La Maison are worth a stop, if you can find a place to park.

AnselmAdorne

Isabel, Pont du Gard is about a 45 minute drive north from Arles. I have been twice, both times in September, so I can't comment on how crowded it will be in July. I would think, however, that arriving early would be the best advice. There is a huge well-marked parking lot on the north side (just off of D19, the road out of Remoulins). I think there is also parking on the south bank, but I haven't approached it from that side.

You mentioned Uzès as a place you'd like to see. It's 7 or 8 kilometres beyond Pont du Gard. It is a delightful spot, with wonderful markets on Wednesday and Saturday mornings.

If you arrive in Uzès on a non-market day, there is are several parking lots along the one-way boulevard that circles the town, plus the easy-to-use Gide parking garage on the north side of town. Market days present parking challenges, however, so you may end up parked on the outskirts of town.

I hope you enjoy your visit. Some of the most pleasant hours of my life have been spent in the cafés that edge the leafy Place aux Herbes in Uzès.

Anselm

AnselmAdorne

Giovanna just mentioned the beautiful Cloître St-Trophime in Arles. I'd like to add another vote for that. Entering the cloister is like stepping back into the 13th century. It is isolated and tranquil, with beautiful carvings.

While on the subject of carvings, there is a place nearby that isn't often mentioned here. The facade of the abbey in St-Gilles, a small town immediately west of Arles, has spectacular sculptures dating from the 12th century. Although mutilated during the Wars of Religion, the carvings are stunning.

If you do visit the site, buy a ticket for the crypt, the church beneath the church. It contains the tombs of St Giles, who founded the site, and of Pierre de Castelnau, the papal legate whose assassination in 1208 triggered the Albigensian Crusade.

Anselm

kevin_widrow

Pont du Gard will be mobbed in July so try to get there either early or late in the day. But as compensation, you can bring your bathing suit and go for a leisurely float right under the bridge.

And I'll second the suggestion about Uzes. A fantastic little town. And similarly pleasant is Beaucaire - on the way up from Arles. All of that will make for a nice day.

-Kevin

Joanel

we visited pont du gard in sept, and wasn't crowded. but one sight there that hasn't been mentioned is the musuem. it is in one of the reception buildings and is very different from any musuem we have ever been in. It is very cool in there and the presentation of the exhibits is most unusual. well worth some time.

carcassone

Hi isabel,

We spent 6 nights in Le Calendal in Aug and were fortunate enough to get the family room overlooking the Roman arena. It was magical sleeping in the shadow of a 2000 year old building. See my review on TripAdvisor:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR..._Provence.html

We love Roman ruins but we chose Arles over Nimes because of its association with Van Gogh. It was fun following "The Van Gogh Trail". You can get a map from the TI office.

The highlight of our trip was kayaking under Pont du Gard. See my trip report on:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/pgMessa...p;tid=34508868

Our 1st day to Pont du Gard, we arrived around 11am on a Wed and the huge parking lot was about 40% filled. The museum is execellent with cool air-conditioning. The bridge is big so even with crowds, all you have to do is to cross the bridge and it's much less crowded on the left bank. Most tour groups we saw just congregated on the right bank without even crossing the bridge (what a pity!) Another note is that the bridge is much more photogenic on the upstream side. That's the side without the "modern" expansion and it's the side on all postcards. So walk upstream a few hundred feet for best camera angles. The gift shops offer very competitive prices with good selections, so stock up on souvenirs.

While in Nimes, it's worth the extra time to locate the Le Castellum Divisorum and see where all the water on Pont du Gard ended up! The site is small but brings a nice closure.

e-mail to [email protected] if you have questions.

nonnafelice

One of our guidebooks recommended that, in Arles, we start with the excellent city museum (somewhat on the outskirts of town), which has some wonderful exhibits about the ancient Roman city. I'm so glad we did it that way, because it made the visit to the town itself much more meaningful.

The museum has many models showing the way the city was in Roman times, as well as some beautifully preserved Roman mosaics.

Huitres

I've made Arles my base numerous times and have never been disappointed. It is my all-time favorite city in France - I just love it there! I find its location very central (via train and bus) to where I want to go in Provence.

You can easily take a train from Arles to Nimes, then a local bus out to Pont du Gard. The bus station in Nimes is adjacent to the train station area and the bus ticket cost less than 3 euros (last year). At the Pont du Gard site, the bus stop is on the main road, outside of the parking lot and Pont area, a mere 10 minute walk down to the bridge. I was there in September and there wasn't that many people then, I can't speak for July, I am sure it will be crowded.

Nimes makes a nice day trip, they have the famous colisseum, the Jardin (with the 'Tour Magne' and Roman ruins), Maison Carree, Temple of Diana, etc. The handy little tourist train that runs around the city is a fun way to get oriented to all the landmarks in Nimes in ~1 hour.

isabel

Thanks for your replys. They've been very helpful. I've definitly been swayed to Arles and have bookmarked the Calendal Hotel. Couple other questions. I've found some photos on the internet of a town just north of Arles called Tarascon but it's not in my guidebooks. A search here brings it up mentioned in passing but not real info on it. Has anyone been there that could give me some firsthand information. Is it worth stopping in? about how big is it? is there anything special to see or just a nice town?

Also, carcassone, can I assume from your name that you've been to Carcassone? Any tips or info you'd care to share (or anyone else)? Thanks

cigalechanta

Tarascon has a castle, The Chateau de Tarascon and The Colleggiale Ste-Marthe which as the tomb in the crypt of St Marthe. According to legend St Marthe rescued the inhabitants from the Tarasque, a man eating monster, half amadillo, half lion which gave the town it's name. I usually stop in Tarascon for the Musée Souleido that has a boutique with a yearly sale at summer's end.

kevin_widrow

Tarascon is definately worth a stop, monster notwithstanding.

Check out the following sites for more info:

http://www.tarascon.org/en/index.php
http://www.provenceweb.fr/e/bouches/...n/tarascon.htm

-Kevin

AnselmAdorne

Isabel, the Michelin Green Guide for Provence has a couple of pages on both Tarascon and Beaucaire, which is directly across the Rhône. We really like the Green Guides and would heartily recommend them, although as I think about it, you'd probably end up needing several to cover the territory you're planning for.

You asked whether anyone had any information on Carcassonne. We were there in October 2001. It is a striking site, well worth the excursion, although, like Pont du Gard, likely to be mobbed in July. I suspect the advice to arrive early applies here, too. (It was deserted when we were there.)

I have one other recommendation. If your route from Barcelona to Carcassonne takes you by Narbonne, you might want to visit the Abbaye de Fontfroide, a Cistercian abbey a few kilometres south-west of Narbonne. Although in private hands, it is open to the public and there are regular tours. (Ours was conducted in French---I'm not sure whether there are English tours or not.) It is an excellent restoration and the Cistercian architecture is hauntingly beautiful.

There is also a good restaurant at the abbey--La Bergerie de Fontfroide.

Anselm