Need help planning a trip to Normandy/Brittany
We are planning to visit Normandy and Brittany at the end of May after a short stay in Amsterdam and Brugge. As much as I dislike frequent hotel changes, I could not come up with a better itinerary, it involves 6 or 7 different hotels. Please, critique my schedule and may be suggest better solution.
Thanks you very much.
Itinerary Detail
=================
Day 1 and 2 ()
Arrive to Rouen (210 miles drive from Brugge) THUR, FRI
FRI explore Rouen stay 2 nights
================
Day 3 ( 113 miles drive ) SAT leave Rouen and drive to Honfleur, to spend 2 nights
Rout from Rouen to Honfeur
village of le Hanourd.
village of Veules les Roses*
Etretat***-
arrive Honfleur to stay for 2 nights
=====================================
Day 4 and (70 miles) drive (SUN)
Explore Honfleur in the morning.
and take a drive :
Trouville-sur-Mer, France
Cabourg, France
Beaumont-en-Auge, France
Pont-l'Évêque, Calvados, Lower Normandy, France
Lisieux Cathedral, Lisieux, France
Cambremer, France
Crèvecœur-en-Auge, France
come back to Honfleur, spend night
========================================================
Day 5 (MON)
drive to Bayeux (60 miles) for 2 nights stay stay 2 nights
Visit Bayeux and Caen
====================================================
day 6 visit D- day sites (80 miles) (TUE)
Esplanade Général Eisenhower, BP 55026, 14050 Caen, France (Mémorial de Caen)
Arromanches-les-Bains, France
Omaha beach, Vierville-sur-Mer, France
Pointe Du Hoc, Cricqueville-en-Bessin, France
Bayeux, France
========================================================
Day 7
drive (WED) to Mont Saint Michel (111 miles), stay one night
Head out towards Mont St Michel:
Carentat,
St Lo
Villedieu.
Mont St Michel stay 1 night
========================================================
Day 8
(THUR) (35 miles) drive to Brittany
Staying around Dinan, days 8 9 10 11 12 may be 13
( 4 knights, may be 5)
Places to visit
Dinan, France
Saint-Malo, France
Dinard, France
COTE D’EMERAUDE
Pointe du Grouin, France
Saint-Lunaire, France
Pointe du Décolle, Saint-Lunaire, France
Forte near La Latte, Plévenon, Bretagne, France
Cap Fréhel, Plévenon, France
Saint-Brieuc, France
Plouha, France
Pointe de Plouha, France
Plage Bonaparte, France
Île de Bréhat, Île-de-Bréhat, France
=========================
Day 12 or 13 drive to Paris, day 14 leaving for US
Need help planning a trip to Normandy and Brittany
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The way you've printed out your itinerary is confusing to me. Day 3 you say you're staying in Honfleur for 2 nights, but Day 4 you're on your way elsewhere. Day 8 looks utterly manic.
There are some very beautiful small "preserved" towns in the inland rural part of Normandy. One I recall is Le Bec, worth a stop and perhaps one night stay at the local inn. Lost in time, wonderful food, small abbey, and beautiful countryside. Honfleur not worthy of two days in my view, but is a picturesque harbor town, and (most memorable to me as a shopper) has a wonderful, handmade French table linens store in which one could putter for quite some time! In addition to the US cemetery, there is a hidden away German cemetery near the Normandy beaches -- worth seeing in stark contrast to the US memorial at Omaha Beach.
P.S. The tapestries in Bayeux are not to be missed!
I have only been to a few of these places, but from what little I do know, I think your trip sounds wonderful.
I think you hare planning on only about 1/2 day to explore Honfleur. If so, that might be enough for your interests. But if you hope to visit any of the town's small museums, you might want a bit more than just one morning. (I see that you'll have some evenings there, too, but the museums won't likely be open then.) BTW, I was there last May, and thought the town's small park/garden well worth an hour or so - its rose arbors were in full bloom, along with some other lovely flowers - delightful!
If time becomes an issue during your time in Brittany - days 8 to 12 or so, if I'm reading correctly - the Forte la Latte might be a place to consider dropping. I enjoyed it, but in retrospect, I would have traded my time there for an extra hour at Cap Frehel.
> As much as I dislike frequent hotel changes, I could not come up with a better itinerary, it involves 6 or 7 different hotels.
Given your plans, moving around makes sense to me - you could well save time by avoiding backtracking. (But I might not be the best judge here, because I generally choose forward movement over returning to a base whenever it optimizes my time to do so.)
Enjoy!
We stayed at a B&B near the Pointe du Grouin which allowed us to make day trips to the Mont St. Michel, Dinan, St. Malo. You might want to take a look at my trip report that starts in Ghent; click on my name to find it.
.
StCirq, sorry if I confused you, I will try to express myself better in the future.
Michael, thanks you for sharing, it is a very good and detailed trip report, I enjoyed so much reading it.
kja, thanks for the recommendations, I too think moving around is unavoidable and much better than backtracking.
Thanks all.
If you want to have a look here's my trip report about exploring near Dinan: http://tinyurl.com/82azcyh
And here are some threads you can reference for the Normandy part of your trip:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g187181-i947-k5197426-Paris_and_Normandy_help-Bayeux_Calvados_Basse_Normandie_Normandy.html#39058384
ttp://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g187179-i607-k4965972-Driving_to_Normandy_from_Paris_round_trip_Itinerary_advice-Normandy.html#37142728h
I agree with StCirq that the way you've described your itinerary is confusing in places. For the Brittany portion of your itinerary you shouldn't need more than 2 bases and could possibly get by with only 1 base.
Hello everyone, and thank you very much for everyone’s input. I’ve made changes to our plans, and rented an apartment for 4 nights in Honfleur, we will make decision there to make a daytrip to Rouen or spend time somewhere else. This clears the confusion I’ve created on days with days 1,2,3,4.
We then will drive to Bayeux for 2 days as we planned before, and now I came to Brittanie’s portion of the trip. I had originally planned to make an overnight stop at Mont St Michel on our way to Brittany, and then spend 4-5 nights around Dinan, but now incliend to change my mind to make MSM a day trip.
Now I have a question about Saint-Malo, what if instead of staying around Dinan we stayed there? I remember kerouac’s incredible pictures from “Saint Malo when it shivers”. I found nice apartment there. Is it a good idea, what are the pros and cons? We are going to be there in the begging of June, is it really windy there then?
FrenchMystiqueTours, you are the reason(great reason!) we are planning to leave Brittany day earlier, your Fontainebleau report from a year or two ago hunting us, we are thinking to leave our Brittany base one day earlier (probably stopping on our way at Rennes), arrive to Fontainebleau in the evening spend a night and next day there, then drive CDG drop the car at night, spend a night there before flying home in the morning.
louloujr, In addition to the US cemetery, there is a hidden away German cemetery near the Normandy beaches -- worth seeing in stark contrast to the US memorial at Omaha Beach.
Can you tell me more about this? I so appreciated seeing the German cemetery in Belgium. They were buried three to a grave and their loved ones had planted vegetables around their stones.
We are staying in a B&B in Bayeux in May. The innkeeper booked us dinner at La Fringale our first night. I can't wait to taste the oysters, scallops and cider!
Oh dear, I guess 4 days in Honfleur might work for certain itineraries, but I think you'll be totally bored after two days. It's a very small town, and once you've seen Ste-Cathérine and the couple of museums and the quais and the plaque and had a plâteau de fruits de mers on the quai, you'll be done. I guess you can go to Deauville and Trouville one day, but what about the rest? Four days in Honfleur, as much as I love the place, seems over the top,, given your overall schedule. WAY over the top. Two days there is more than sufficient.
I like St-Malo well enough, but for me it's just good enough for an afternoon by the beach and to see the main town - nothing terribly attractive to get me to spend the night there and get to know it. Dinan was far more interesting to me. Windy? Maybe, maybe not. It's really windy here in DC tonight.
> I had originally planned to make an overnight stop at Mont St Michel on our way to Brittany, ... but now incliend to change my mind to make MSM a day trip.
Like many people, I thought staying on Mont St. Michel was overpriced - and I am SO glad i stayed! I truly enjoyed walking around after day-trippers had left and seeing it in the light of the setting sun and later, lit against the night sky - so evocative! For me, worth every penny.
> Now I have a question about Saint-Malo, what if instead of staying around Dinan we stayed there?
I'm glad a spent an evening on St. Malo, and probably would have enjoyed a half day, but I had no regrets about leaving it rather quickly. I spent several lovely hours in Dinan, which I thought was a gem. I don't know the area well, but if I had to pick one of the two for a base given my limited experience, Dinan would win hands down for my tastes. I thought Dinan had more charm and it offered a greater variety of interesting things to see. I also found it easier to park in Dinan and to get into and out of it. Unfortunately, I don't know what I missed with such short stops.
> probably stopping on our way at Rennes
I loved Rennes! BTW, if you have any interest in museums that show local culture and customs, do consider visiting the Musee de Bretagne - I thought the impressive collection was extremely well displayed and signed and the building itself well worth seeing.
Hope that helps!
I think spending 4 days in Honfleur as a base to explore the area can be fine depending on what you want to see and do. Aside from spending time in the town itself you can do Deauville/Trouville, you can do cidre and cheese country in the Pays d'Auge (you could easily spend 2 days exploring the countryside in this area), you can do Rouen (as you planned) and maybe the abbeys of Jumiège and Saint-Wandrille-Rançon, you can do Etretat and Fécamp and the scenic coastal drives in that area and you can also do what I like to do and just use the Michelin map as a guide and get lost driving around the countryside. There are loads of scenic country drives in that area that have never seen a tourist. If you follow my tips about how to read the icons on a Michelin map you can make up stuff as you're driving along.
In regards to Saint-Malo vs. Dinan, personally I enjoy Dinan more (I find it much more charming) but it brings up the question of what makes a good base and that is determined by what you want to see and do. You read my report and you saw all the places I was able to see based in Erquy and that was in December, with short daylight hours. We generally didn't leave the house until around 10:30 and returned by 5:00 and usually had a sit down restaurant lunch.
On your last day in Fontainebleau if you're not going to visit the palace then you know there are well over a dozen towns I could recommend visiting in that area.
I agree with kja that a night on MSM is wonderful. Understand there will be a new shuttle in place soon and you'll have to park on the mainland. Here is info about the new shuttle:
http://accueilmontsaintmichel.fr/english/index.html
Thank you for the comments, everyone is so helpful. We will have 4 nights /3 full days in Honfleur and plan to spend it exploring the region as much as we can. We too, usually start around 10am, come back around 5-6 for a break before going to dinner, or having dinner at home when we rent an apartment. I get tired of eating out day after day, I’d like to get local produce at the markets and cook a little, not too much. We also prefer to go for a stroll before and after dinner, rather than driving somewhere more than 5 miles. I am looking for a home bases with a stay longer than two nights, but it is not always possible. Will look for a place to stay at MSM, and may be Saint-Malo not the best choice.
Thanks for recommendations, I ‘will come back with more questions.
MRS
Does anyone have information on hours of operation for the MSM shuttles from the new parking lot? I went to http://accueilmontsaintmichel.fr/english/index.html website and could not find anything, they only say they have 24 hours 7 day a week for the disable or working on MSM.
8 am to 1 am:
http://www.blogpressmontsaintmichel.fr/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Mont-Saint-MichelNouvelAccueil2012.pdf
StCirq, thank you very much, i don't think they have this info in the english flyer, but who sad they should? Thanks, you are the best.
I didn't see any mention of it on the official website, either - even in French. That's why I kept digging. I hope it's accurate.
bmk
I haven't seen if you've altered the two days in Bayeux, but I think it is worth much more than that. Honfleur--2 days is PLENTY, even exploring the area. Two days in Rouen might even be a bit much.
Bayeux and the beaches needs the 4 days, since you have them.
Someone was asking about the German cemetery. It's one claim to fame is that it is the burial place of the commandant and some of the German soldiers who conducted the massacre of the town of Odour sur Glane, near Limoges.
Your day near Lisieux seems pretty full but if you can possibly squeeze it in, visit St. Germain-en-Livet nearby. It is a 16th century chateau (very modest by Loire standards) but lovely. Half timbered, interesting brick and stonework patterns, surrounded by a moat and beautiful gardens, seemed very livable (as compared to over the top chateaux of the Loire). I spent a couple of hours there and fell in love with it.
Google it.
I did alter our itinerary and this is how it looks now:
Arrive to Honfleur in the evening from Brugge, around 6-7 pm and spend 4 nights there
It will give us 3 full days: one day to explore coast and drive as far as Etreat, one day to drive cider and country roads in the Pays d’Auge, one day may visit Rouen, or more of the country.
Then we will move to Bayeux for 2 nights, it will give us around one and half day there.
Then drive to MSM for overnight stay at Château De Bouceel.
From there to Villa Nazado in Erquy for four nights, as FrenchMystiqueTours suggested,great location enables to drive west and east along the coast line.
After leaving Erquy we would like to stop at Rennes on our way to Fontainebleau. Initially, I was planning to spend one night there, and one night at Paris airport, but now changed my mind. I booked 2 nights at Chateau De Rouillon at Chartrettes, our fly is at 10:30am from CDG, and I think we will make it on time. If we leave Chartrettes at 7am, dropping off car at CDG should not take that long.
Thank you everyone,
MRS
looks great, MRS. not too many one night stands, which is what I always try to avoid as they are so tiring. [I'd do one of those emoticon things here, only i can't remember the one for the wink and anyway they are so kitsch!]
have a great trip!
How long do you expect the drive to CDG to be? I think your checkin needs to be by 8:30?
Sounds good MRS. I don't know what day your flight is but if it's a weekday you might even want to leave a bit before 7AM. I checked the route you'll take from Chartrettes to CDG and the N104 and A104 can get quite congested, especially if there's an accident. And there seems to be perpetual roadwork on those roads as well.
If you don't have all my trip reports about exploring the area near Fontainebleau here they are again:
Moret-sur-Loing to Nemours: http://tinyurl.com/c6deuw5
Fontainebleau to Milly-la-Forêt: http://tinyurl.com/6aksvbd
Melun – Vaux-le-Vicomte: http://tinyurl.com/6cau3rv
I haven't been there but near Chartrettes is a town on the Seine called Samois-sur-Seine that is supposed to be nice.
One more thing, along the lines of what Gretchen said. You want to be in the check-in line at least 2 hours before your flight. I've heard a few travelers say that when they've checked their cars back in at the airports that they've been stalled by the rental people in hopes that they'll leave without having the car checked over for damage and they leave without the agency signing off that there is no damage to the car. Then a few weeks later they receive a bill for damage they supposedly caused to the car. Make sure you get to the airport early enough to get the waiver saying the car is not damaged and with enough time to be in the check-in line 2 hours before your flight. You may even want to leave Chartrettes at 6AM. And take plenty of photos of the car documenting any damage (scratches, nicks, dents etc.) that existed prior to your using the car. You might want to make sure when you pick up the car that you do a thorough walk-over with an agent (take photos) documenting any existing damage.