ekscrunchy

I plan to fly home from Malaga after a trip to Spain in October/early November. The current plan calls for arrival in Malaga on a Sunday and departure on a Tuesday. Therefore, we would have the latter part of Sunday, and Monday, in the city. Museums appear to be closed on Mondays, so wondering what a good plan might be for that day. Does anyone know if there are good restaurants/tapas bars, open on Sundays and Mondays? Anyone familiar with this Dani Garcia restaurant, which does appear to be open on Sundays?

http://lamoraga.com/en/restaurants/antonio-martin



Should I make an effort to visit Nerja, perhaps by extending the trip by a day? I've read many glowing reports about this town..it is still lovely or has development taken a toll?


Please give me your thoughts on Malaga/Nerja..I've read most of the comments here already and am looking for more personal comments on the two cities.

ekscrunchy

Also: Any comments on Benahavis for an overnight stay?

kimhe

You probably know I love both Málaga city and Nerja, very different cities/towns in all ways, not at least in size (pop. 550 000 vs. 22 000). If you find much of the museums in Málaga to be closed on Monday (there will be plenty of great restaurants/tapas bars open both Sunday and Monday), a trip to Nerja is not a bad idea.

Then I suggest you visit the quite spectacular prehistoric caves, lived people here 25 000 years ago. Discovered in 1959 and it's much of the reason for the growth of Nerja as a tourist destination. Open every day. In winter from 10-14 and 16-18.30.

Perhaps go in the morning, and leave time for a lunch in a typical Nerja restaurant. I suggest La Puntilla in the midst of the beautiful old town: http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaur...Andalucia.html

If it's closed, there are a couple of perfectly fine options very close by (within 50-100 meters).
Los Cuñaos: http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres...ts/los-cunaos/
Taberna de Pepe: http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaur...Andalucia.html

Perhaps also visit the new Nerja museum about the regions history, 5 floors and 1400m2: http://www.cuevadenerja.es/index.php?modulo=mus_obra

The museum is just off the famous landmark Balcón de Europa.

Nerja is far from the tourist developments west of Málaga and has retained much of it's small town charm. It's popular with tourists and some parts of town are very touristy, but not much have changed the past ten years.

ekscrunchy

Kimhe: Many thanks for this, and for all of your other incredibly helpful responses over the years. I've been to Spain quite a few times but somehow I always missed Malaga and am not quite eager to see what I've been missing. There seem to be direct buses that take only an hour, so perhaps we will take a daytrip to Nerja on Monday.

We will be driving from Gaucin to Malaga (on a Sunday) so any advice on routing/stops for lunch is also welcome. Many thanks!

kimhe

In Málaga, be at least sure to visit Casa Aranda for a coffee or chocolate con churros for breakfast or anytime. In C/ Herreria del Rey, 3, just off main street Marqués de Larios: http://www.casa-aranda.net/

Perhaps wander about in the narrow streets in the very small area between C/ Marqués de Larios in the west, Calle Granada in the north and the Cathedral in the east.

Late in the evening you might have a glass and/or a light meal in the back of El Pimpi in Calle Granada. Exit through the doors in the rear and meet Alcazaba at night: http://www.ojodigital.com/foro/urban...de-malaga.html

jomagpie

sorry for the hijack -

@kimhe: you always have great advice/tips, so I'm wondering what's your thoughts on Nerja vs. Ronda? (I have Ronda for 2 nights planned after Granada, but now I'm thinking maybe go somewhere else - Cadiz? Cordoba? Ronda? now after reading your advice here, Nerja?

(Main reason for thinking Cadiz or Nerja, is because it'll be nice to be near a beach in July)

Thanks!

isabel

There is plenty to do in Malaga for a day or so even without any museums. There is a nice old center to walk around, the cathedral is wonderful, the port area is interesting, nice park. I did a really short trip report, but there's a link to my photos which will give you an idea what there is to see.

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-gibraltar.cfm

ekscrunchy

Isabel your photos are incredible! Thanks so much for posting...you've convinced me!

I'll probably want to spend a few hours in the main food market as well, to shop for treats to bring home.

kimhe

ekscrunchy,

Casa Aranda is 40 meters from the great Atarazanas food market!

jomagpie,

Ronda, Cádiz and Nerja would be very different and highly recommended in their own ways.

Ronda is cradle of bullfighting and stunning landscapes. Wonderful Rocío Molina dancing a rondeña in the bullring: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQcJC72NTsc

Cádiz is 3000 year old Phoenician Gadir (one of the oldest cities in the world), cradle of flamenco, home of the liberal 1812 constitution (the bicentennial of "La Pepa" is celebrated through all of this year), a Havana-like old town, magical light and some of the finest beaches in the country. Sara Baras from Cádiz is one of the most famous flamenco dancers in the world, and she is currently touring with her homage to her hometowns 1812 constitution "La Pepa":
http://www.flamencotv.es/es/actualid...--la-pepa.html

Small Nerja is understandably very popular with tourist, wonderful beaches among the cliffs, high quality both Spanish and international restaurants, a very laid-back atmosphere and still a small town Andalucian atmosphere outside the most touristy areas. At the end of this short clip Rocío Molina is dancing on home turf (she's from neighbouring Torre del Mar) down in the famous Nerja caves last summer. A great night! http://www.canalsur.es/portal_rtva/w...icia?id=184206

ekscrunchy

Casa Aranda is on my list!

The Atarazanas market looks fabulous! I can surely spend half a day in there. http://www.spain-holiday.com/blog/at...ral-market.php

kimhe

Try to find some Jamón Ibérico de Jabugo at the market. The small town Jabugo in the Huelva province produces the absolutely finest cured ham in the world, San Sebastián pintxos bars and restaurants are full of Jamón de Jabugo. Make them cut it in very thin slices and pack it "al vacío", and it's perfectly fine for several weeks. http://rozannegold.wordpress.com/201...-jabugo-150lb/

josele

topping, shall come back later.

ekscrunchy

Kimhe: I will not miss the jamon Iberico! We are not supposed to bring it back to the US (although we can now buy it here for very high prices), but I plan to consume a hefty share while in Spain!

For those who do not know about this world-class ham, here are a few threads:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-in-the-us.cfm


http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...amn-ibrico.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...on-iberico.cfm



What else, in addition to the ham, should be on my shopping list for the Malaga market?
(Staples that I always bring home from Spain include: 3 varieties of pimenton de la Vera; canned seafoods; tortas de aceite (a relatively new addiction) olive oils; dried beans; almonds and garlic and saffron from La Mancha.)


Anything particular to the Malaga area?




There is a long thread about shopping in Spain, focusing on food; I will top it now for anyone bound for that country this summer..

Magster2005

We were surprised how much we enjoyed Malaga. The Alcazaba is lovely. We took a cab up to Castel Gibralfaro (great views of the harbor and bullfighting ring) and walked down.

If you like wine, the Malaga Wine Museum is small but sweet and includes tastings. www.museovinomalaga.com

We liked a wine tavern called Las Garrafas (recommended by Pedro at the museum). Be sure to try the “albondigones” -- giant meatballs made with hamburger and almonds.

josele

Hi again.
One of my favourite museums is the local Arts and Crafts, I always take my guests there, and it is open on Mondays, at ten. link http://www.museoartespopulares.com, it is very interesting the rooms dedicated to wine/cask making, the fishing, the leather and saddlery...and the outstanding collection of clay figures. It is very near the Central Market (aka Atarazanas Market).
I am a regular of Las Garrafas, so I rec. it too. You'll see the dishes at a glass counter (refrigerated). Calle Tejón y Rodríguez. You'll find most eating places open. Fried fish restaurants traditionally close as there's no fresh catch on Mondays, but some will be open. Try at Calle Comisario (a narrow street from Alameda to Calle Martínez), after a visit to La Casa del Guardia (Alameda, closed Sundays).
The Moraga is a fashion-tapa place, there is another location at Calle Fresca, very near the Cathedral. BTW, the Cathedral shall be open for the cult on Sunday evening, free but limited access.

You can buy good ham in Malaga, but it is not a local product. At the market we buy only fresh products, i.e. fish. Try to find Melocotones de Periana, Tortas de Algarrobo (a town in the east), goat cheese from Ronda area.
About a restaurant on your way on Sunday, as I believe you'll drive from Gaucin to the coast I can't but recommend you Restaurante Camurí on coastal road N-340 past Estepona, it is very new but running very well, I should know as it belongs to my brothers ;-) check www.restaurantecamuri.com, if it suits you, make phone reservation, and use my name if needed.

josele

Forgot to recommend you Malaga muscatel raisins, from Cómpeta area, but make sure they are from Malaga.

ekscrunchy

Will look for those raisins! Will I find those in the main food market?

Which reminds me; I've had moscatel from this producer and liked it very much:


http://jorge-ordonez.es/

josele

I had a Ordoñez white muscatel last friday, very good. Almachar is one of the towns of the Competa area, being this the big one.
The raisins are packed in triangular or rectangular flat boxes, size about two cds. If not in the market in any dry goods shop around.

ekscrunchy

Thanks! I will look for them. Will the food market be fully open on Mondays?

Do you happen to know any good restaurants that will be open on Sunday and Monday night?

josele

The market shall be open. About restaurants, I'll have to check. Do you prefer local food or other? Sundy lunch or dinner?
Besides, you are coming in Oct. and who knows by then...many places are closing/opening.