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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 08:42 AM
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Madrid and surrounding cities/countryside

My wife and I are veteran travelers and we normally spend 2 months vacationing in Europe every year – usually 2-3 trips (June/July and Sept/Oct). About 75% of our time is spent in France, 15% Italy, and the remaining elsewhere. We are independent travelers - no cruises, large tour groups, etc.

Our Sept/Oct trip this year in Northern Calif (we’re 38 year San Francisco Bay Area residents) had some problems (long story), so I’ve decided to visit Madrid and the cities/countryside around Madrid instead.

We’ve spent very little time in Spain, except for an overnight to Barcelona from our gite/house just across the border near Perpignan France. Our June/July trip this year will be to the Pays Basque area in France for 2 weeks, then into the Pyrenees for 3 weeks. We plan to spend several days in San Sebastian and also the Spanish Pyrenees on this trip.

I would like a “reasonability” check on my tentative Sept/Oct Madrid & surrounding area itinerary.

Our likes/dislikes & how we travel:
- We are not interested in visiting any museum of paintings – so no Prada or Thyssen-Bornermisza. But we do plan to visit the Railway museum and perhaps the Lazaro Galdiano.
- We love “old building” architecture – don’t like modern architecture.
- We don’t have much interest in visiting religious stuff. We’ve visited perhaps 500 churches in Europe. We will see all the “major” churches in the cities we’re visiting – but a visit for us is not more than 30 mins. Same with Monasteries. We stayed for 5 nights in Melk in Austria and loved that Monastery. But others have left us “cold” after our first 30 or so monastery visits in Europe.
- We love castles – we’ll go out of our way to visit one.
- We like quiet/quaint neighborhoods
- We don’t like hot weather in Cities.
- We do a lot of walking. We have also taken about 15-20 organized walks with London_walks and about 6-10 with Paris-Walks.
- We’re big foodies – but we don’t “lunch”. Our main meal is dinner – and usually that’s also the extent of our evening entertainment.
- We retired in our early 50s in 1999 so we could travel more. So the amount of time we spend in any single place is not an “issue”, and neither is the time of year nor the start/stop days of our itinerary.
- Cost is not an issue.
- We get an early start in the morning, but we begin to run out of energy around 4pm
- We don’t take naps during the day.

OK – here is my “in process” itinerary. Our current plan is to land in Madrid around noon on Sept 24.

Mon – Madrid
Tues – Madrid
Wed – Madrid
Thurs – Madrid
Fri – Early train to Toledo & sleep in Toledo
Sat – Toledo.
Sunday – early train to Salamanca. There is a station change in Madrid. About a 4 ½ hr trip. Sleep in Salamanca
Monday – Salmanaca
Tues – pick up a car & drive through the countryside visiting Cuidad Rodrigo, Pena de Francia road, Carretera de las Batuecas, La Alberca, Miranda del Castanar, then back to Salmanaca.
Wed – Drive to Avila, visit, and stay overnight
Thurs – El Escorial, Riofrio and palace, then on to Segovia.
Fri – Segovia
Sat – Coca Castle, Pedraza de la Sierra, San Ildefonsa la Grania, then back to Segovia
Sunday – drive from Segovia to the Madrid airport for an afternoon flight. Traffic should be light on a Sunday.

Concerns:
- Is this too many days in Madrid?
- I plan on taking metro line 1 from the Atocha to Chamartin Madrid stations for my train trip from Toledo to Salmanaca. My guide book says that there are 6 trains per hour. Is there a reduced schedule on Sunday – the day we travel? What is the web site for the Madrid transportation schedules? Any advantage to purchasing tickets in advance, or can I wait until we get to Madrid?
- Is Avila an overnight or just a 1 hr visit?
- I planned a similar trip about 2 years ago, but never did it. I had circled Cuidad Rodrigo on my map – but I don’t know why. Does anyone know anything about “what’s there”?
- Pena de Francia road and Carretera de las Batuecas road are both mentioned as ** and * sites in my Michelin Green Guide. But I don could not find any reference to them on my Spain map. The Green Guide said they were west of La Alberca. Anyone know something about these areas?

If someone with similar “taste” in travel to ours asked me how much time I would recommend for cities we’ve visited, here is how I would answer.
Paris (forever), London (4 weeks), Rome (1 week), Budapest (4 1/2 days), Prague (3 1/2 days), Amsterdam (3 dys), Bruges (1 ½ dys), Ghent (1 ½ dys), Antwerp (1 ½ dys), Dijon (1 ½ dys), Aix en Provence (1 ½ dys), Avignon (1 ½ dys), Toulouse (1 ½ dys), Florence (3 dys), Siena (1 dy), Lyon (2 dys).

Stu Dudley
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 08:54 AM
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I have not been to Madrid, but have been to Segovia and Avila--back in 1985. My recollection is that Segovia is more interesting than Avila and is worth spending more time. For us, Avila as an outing from Segovia was sufficient.

When we saw Coca we could not enter it. It was some time of government agricultural institution that was closed to the public.

The first half of the set is relevant to your plans:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...7622975757180/
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 09:21 AM
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Some people don't like Madrid but I find a lot to do - it is a big city . If you are not interested in painting...you can visit exceptional Navel museum, the Armory at the Palace, the Palace etc.
The weather in mid- Oct should be just right.( I was there last Oct )
You can walk for hours through different parts of the city including the stunning park Retiro , elegant district Salamanca, other parks an barrios.
Lazaro G is a rich man's beautiful house with usual painting, furniture etc.
Depending on how you handle jet-lag, 3 full days might be right.
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 09:44 AM
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I prefer to take the bus when I'm in Spain-very comfortable and so I would do the trips to Toledo and Segovia during my Madrid stay.La Granja is a 10 minute bus ride from Segovia The tor of the palace is a bit much-I would skip it and just enjoy the gardens and fountains.The parador there is great as are the little restaurants.Not tpoo far away is a unique castle Penafiel-in the shape of a battleship!
Once you getto Salamanca-which I also did by bus-visit the palace of salt-fascinating building and free just check the times.
On your drive out of Salamanca visit Tordesillas beautiful town overlooking the river where the treaty dividing the new world was signed and where the queen, Juan la loca spent many years in a fabulous convent-interesting tour
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 10:05 AM
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Stu - Except for the parts about spending >>>2 months vacationing in Europe every year – usually 2-3 trips<<<, retiring in my early 50's to travel more, and cost not being an issue, I'm right there with you. ;-)

There are others here with much more experience on Spain than I, so I'll just say I'm envious and leave it at that!
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 10:09 AM
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The main attarctions of Madrid are the museums and being an excellent hub to visit the many worthwhile nearby cities. More a major capital the charm of their architecture is limited. Like France and Italy, a car can be a bleesing and a burden. In some towns the parking and navigation can be diifficult.

If food is a highlight, you must learn the eating habits of Spain. Light breakfast, a large lunch, tapas between 5 and 7 and dinner starting at the earliest of 9 PM. Madrid has more tourists so some restaurants start serving dinner earlier.
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 10:13 AM
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You may need to learn to dine very late at night if you "don't do lunch" in Spain. Dinner in Madrid is usually served after 10:00 pm, especially in the heat of the summer. Some restaurants do open earlier, around 8:30, for tourist, but they'll be fairly empty until the locals begin to arrive.

Regarding your itinerary (sans dates):

Mon – Madrid - most restaurants will be closed for dinner today, so lunch will have to suffice today.

Fri – Early train to Toledo & sleep in Toledo - you also have an option of doing a day-trip to Toledo. You will probably be bored otherwise as Toledo is all about art and religion.

Sunday – early train to Salamanca. There is a station change in Madrid. About a 4 ½ hr trip. Sleep in Salamanca - the early train departs Madrid-Chamartin station at 08:45 for the 2hr 45min trip.

Tues – pick up a car & drive through the countryside visiting Cuidad Rodrigo, Pena de Francia road, Carretera de las Batuecas, La Alberca, Miranda del Castanar, then back to Salamanca.

Interesting daytrip - Pena de Francia, Las Batuecas, La Alberca and Miranda del Castanar are all in the Las Batuecas nature park. Carretera, by the way, refers to a road, not a place.

Wed – Drive to Avila, visit, and stay overnight -

Thurs – El Escorial, Riofrio and palace, then on to Segovia.

Fri – Segovia

Sat – Coca Castle, Pedrera de la Sierra, San Ildefonsa la Grania, then back to Segovia - I would spend the night in La Granja, at the Parador, instead of returning to Segovia.

Sunday – drive from Segovia to the Madrid airport for an afternoon flight. Traffic should be light on a Sunday.
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 10:37 AM
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One more time ,Stu, we are on the same travel page.
I have done that region twice now, once on my own during Semanta Santa, and another time with my wife in 2008.
She loved Segovia and I favored Salamanca. Both times I stayed in the Infanta Isabel hotel on the Plaza Mayor in Segovia---loved the location. And, I really liked the Parador in Avila if you plan to stay there. We had stayed in Toledo on an earlier trip in 1999 at the start of our 8 week sojourn that year. I like your overall plan---you will love San Sebastian. We stayed there on an earlier trip in 1992.
You seem to have your homework well. Holler if I can help.
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 11:47 AM
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sorry... Naval Museum ...
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 11:53 AM
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If you have no interest in art or in monasteries, why are you visiting El Escorial?



Probably the principal reason for visiting the tiny town of Pedraza is to eat the famous lechazo lamb. Given your stated interest in food, I assume this is the reason that you have included it in your plan. I therefore would advise eating lunch on that day, being sure to reserve in advance as the town is a popular gastronomic daytrip. It will be shut tight for the long afternoon lunch period.

Probably your original motivation for Ciudad Rodrigo was the castle which I believe is now a parador.
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 12:00 PM
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Thanks for all the help.

It seems that I should lower my expectations for Madrid a bit - but that's OK - we don't always have to visit A+ places.

We usually dine on the late side at home and also in France - about 8pm. Looks like I'll have to push that back a couple of hours. I love tapas. Thanks to everyone for the hotel & site recommendations also. I'll add them to my itinerary.

Since we'll need to drive to the airport from the Segovia area, will the Parador in Granja be a longer drive, or only + or - 15 mins?

Stu Dudley
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 12:17 PM
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"I plan on taking metro line 1 from the Atocha to Chamartin Madrid stations for my train trip from Toledo to Salmanaca. My guide book says that there are 6 trains per hour. Is there a reduced schedule on Sunday – the day we travel?"

you will have a metro every 5 minutes or less. but there are many stations to geto from atocha to chamartin using metro.
I recommend using cercanias network instead, much faster and you have many trains going from atocha to chamartin as different lines do this route either by new sol tunnel or by the old recoletos tunnel.

http://www.renfe.com/viajeros/cercan...rid/index.html
http://www.renfe.com/viajeros/cercan...as_madrid.html

take lines c1 or c8 or c10 to get to Chamartin via Recoletos
or lines c3 or c4 to get there via Sol.
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 12:42 PM
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Stu,

Based on what you have listed as your likes and dislikes I would say that the itinerary you have outlined is not for you. When you take out the art and the churches/monasteries what else are you planning to visit?
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 01:00 PM
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>>Stu,

Based on what you have listed as your likes and dislikes I would say that the itinerary you have outlined is not for you. When you take out the art and the churches/monasteries what else are you planning to visit?<<

Good point !!!

Does anyone else have the same opinion???

Stu Dudley
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 01:15 PM
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There's always the Las Batuecas nature park for the day.

It will take you longer to drive to the airport from the Parador in Granja than from Segovia, but it will save you the drive back to Segovia (3+ hours) after a day of touring, just to spend the night.
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 01:25 PM
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I think you will like old Madrid: La Latina/Madrid de las Austrias are old buildings, nice plazas and some of the best restaurants and tapas bars in town, especially in and around Calle Cava Baja in the Latina quarter.

Take a look at the Old Madrid tapas & wine walking tour: http://www.walksofspain.com/

Some other suggestions:
Café del Círculo de Bellas Artes in down town Calle Alcalá, 42 is one of the city's most emblematic cafés. Grab a window table and watch Madrid life on bustling Calle Alcalá. Take the lift up to the roof topp terrace (the azotea) for the most spectacular views of the city. http://www.esmadrid.com/en/cargarApl...ntificador=179

Watch the sunset over the Guadarrama mountains from the terrace at El Ventorrillo in the Vistillas park. Great pollo al ajillo (Garlic chicken), some say the best in town. Map, video and some pictures: http://11870.com/pro/restaurante-ventorrillo

Have some tapas at Casa Granada, on the 6th floor of an apartment building just off Plaza Tirso de Molina. Hard to find and a great terrace. http://www.tripfilms.com/Travel_Vide...ada-Video.html

Experience world class flamenco at one of the best tablaos. Madrid is arguably the flamenco capital of the world. Although the art form comes from the South (Andalucía), everybody has to conquer Madrid to get to the top. On their way there, or as an opportunity to try out new things and get an up close audience, many of them work the top tablaos. I recommend Casa Patas, Cardamomo, Villa Rosa from 1911 and Corral de la Morería, the world's most famous tablao.
http://www.casapatas.com/
http://www.cardamomo.es/
http://www.villa-rosa.es/
http://www.corraldelamoreria.com/en/history.html

A stroll in the beautiful Retiro Park. http://www.aviewoncities.com/madrid/parquedelretiro.htm

The gourmet oriented Mercado San Miguel, just off Plaza Mayor.
"A foodie's paradise": http://www.theworlds50best.com/merca...-paradise/8018
http://www.spottedbylocals.com/madri...de-san-miguel/
Great reviews on tripadvisor: http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attract...el-Madrid.html

First class dining at El Mentidero de la Villa:
http://www.mentiderodelavilla.es/
http://11870.com/pro/el-mentidero-la-villa

For excellent tips of restaurants and tapas bars, take a look at Maribel's guide. She knows what she's talking about. Updated March 2011: http://maribelsguides.com/mg_madriddining.pdf

Always updated info on everything going on in the city: http://www.esmadrid.com/en/portal.do

And for your June/July trip, here's a great site about going for the famous pintxos in food crazy San Sebastián, the gourmet capital of Spain. Suggested routes etc: http://www.todopintxos.com/home/home.php?lang=en

You should also read the Guardian article "Is San Sebastián the best place to eat in Europe?": http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandsty...rink.shopping2

Think you are up for two great trips!
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 01:25 PM
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Why not sleep in Pedraza, if you can find a hotel that will take you for one night only? It is a very easy drive from there to the airport on the A1 (and a long drive back to Segovia) and then you can arrive in that town in the late afternoon after a day of sightseeing elsewhere, and have dinner. Unless you are not planning to eat in that town, which kind of negates the point of including it.

I think Madrid is a spectacularly beautiful city with wonderful architecture.
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 01:31 PM
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Robert2533-That makes no sense! La granja is a 10-15 minute ride from Segovia by bus w/stops! By car it certainly will be less. It'sperfectly okay to spend the night in La Granja-beautiful,especially if the fountains are on.JustJust allow yourself enough time to return the car and check in for your flight.
I would love to live in La granja!
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 01:36 PM
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>>It will take you longer to drive to the airport from the Parador in Granja than from Segovia, but it will save you the drive back to Segovia (3+ hours) after a day of touring, just to spend the night.<<

Maybe I don't know where Granja is located. Is that the same site as San Ildefonso la Granja in my first post - where I spelled Granja wrong??. This looks like it is 11K from Segovia. The farthest away that I get from Segovia is Coca which is 50K from Segovia.

What am I interpreting incorrectly?

Stu Dudley
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 02:05 PM
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Thanks for all he links kimhe. It's going to take a lot of time to digest all that info. I downloaded Mirabel's guide to my Kindle a couple of years ago - but now she has an updated version - more work to do!!

Stu Dudley
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