M_kingdom2 in Seville
Jun 25th, 2005, 01:18 PM
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M_kingdom2 in Seville
After spending most of the past two days catching up with correspondence I've found some time to write a report of my trip, however, as is always the case, I'm sure that I'll find little pieces to add to it.
I don't normally detail travelling information such as flights as it's rather mundane, but unfortunately neither out nor inbound proved to follow that familiar pattern. Going, I foolishly decided to try out the Gatwick Express, for some reason or other, I ended up leaving much later than anticipated, and arrived just 28 or so minutes before take-off. After a little persuasion, I managed to get them to allow me to check-in, and eventually I made it on to the plane. Coming home I experienced a five hour delay which was hell, compensation took the form of a voucher for a miserable sandwich. To add to the torment, baggage was delayed for nearly two hours after landing. I phoned BA with little response, so I've tried the e-mail route now!
Now on to the more useful information:
Taxi from the airport to Hotel Alfonso XII cost 25 or so EUR including a tip. Arrival was efficient with a porter taking care of luggage, check-in was equally smooth. Lifts had original bevelled mirrors and panelling, but for some inexplicable reason had a rather cheap laminate wood floor, also they were very small, and I'd imagine that some people may find them a little claustrophobic. Corridors to the rooms were wide, and airy.
Room itself comprised an ante-room with sofa in an alcove, a desk, two X-chairs, and a couple of side tables, this lead to a corridor with two large double wardrobes housing a safe/fridge, which lead through to the bedroom. Room was in a Moorish style with plaster mouldings, a yellow/green-patterned silk adorned the walls, and suitably ethnic furniture complemented the design scheme. Floors were original red and white marble. Bathroom did not have a separate shower, but was a good size and had (once again) Moorish influenced coppery lustre tiles and twin vanities. The window - with electric sunblind on the outside - looked on to the pleasant gardens complete with swimming pool, and orange trees. This is one of the most beautiful rooms I've ever had the pleasure of staying in. Not so much because of the amenities, but simply the superb style, refinement, and taste that is very much in keeping with the city itself. The gardens upon closer inspection would benefit from some more care and attention e.g. many leaves remained unswept, and oranges that had dropped from the trees should've been removed.
Pool service was more of an help yourself affair, with a large table of navy towels being made available, rather than being brought to oneself. A well equipped air-conditioned gym completed the recreational facilities. This property needs to have a spa created in the basement area, perhaps linking in with the pool; in the 21st century, a spa is slowly becoming something that's taken as being the norm.
On a similar line, the main restaurant (situated in the very attractive courtyard in the summer) has a dreadfully outdated menu both a la carte and table d'hote. The dishes appear to be too heavy, fussy, and lacking in imagination. Perhaps this is something that the well-heeled (for the food wasn't particularly cheap) Spaniards enjoy, but it certainly wasn't to my tastes. On a positive note, the bar served an excellent - and at 7.50EUR a steal - champagne cocktail in a coupe NOT flute which shows that they know what they're doing! I dined at the hotel on three (out of four nights) occasions, and on each one at the Japanese restaurant. This is an example of the hotel recognising the need to move forward, and create new areas and tastes. The restaurant is situated in a wooden Japanese style "house" (more shed-like) in the gardens beside the swimming pool. The design is very much in harmony with nature, having built this "house" around existing trees - they've been carefully incorporated so that they grow through the roof. Serving staff were oriental (some from Japan, some from China) and some needed more training, e.g. dishes were served too quickly, and whipped away as if they wanted to turnover customers as quickly as possible. Menu was pretty standard Japanese fare; the set menu at 19EUR comprised five courses, and represented something of a bargain, although I'd recommend supplementing it with dishes from the main menu. Spring rolls served wrapped in a mint leaf, which was in turn wrapped in a lettuce leaf, with a fragrant dipping sauce, were excellent. Lobster (not madly overpriced at 40EUR) was equally well cooked. One evening I even found an origami crane decorating my table - that was a nice touch.
Breakfast was a buffet affair, but it felt a little lacklustre, perhaps a little uninventive, nothing terrible, but certainly nowhere near those I've experienced in the past.
All in all, it is the best hotel in Seville (I looked in on the Melia Colon which doesn't compare), the original interiors really are a delight, and one feels privileged to be able to share in the immense sense of history that this hotel has to offer. For those of you planning to stay there, don't expect Ritz-Carlton service, but the décor, historic grandeur, opulence, and sense of charm should make up for that. Oh, and if your room isn't anything special, then I'd advise that you ask to change it, as my room (which I was allocated first time around) was really spectacular - in some respects it was even better than Hotel Grande Bretagne which is my current benchmark property. It was certainly more impressive than Hotel Arts, which felt naff.
Now for the city:
It's very Spanish, but perhaps with a Latin American overtone, very hot, but that didn't bother me. As for attractions, I couldn't be bothered with any of the museums there. I went to the Cathedral, and up the Giralda tower - some fabulous jewels are on display. I also took a bus, and boat tour. Skip the boat, it was boring, but the bus gave one a good feel for the city in a snapshot sense. I made enquiries with the concierge about day trips, they seemed to be over priced with one to Cadiz costing 90EUR per person. Instead, I took the train to Cadiz, and 15EUR (return) and an hour and a half later I was there. There's not all that much there, some more Spanish streets, and a pleasant atmosphere. The beach was golden sand, and being a weekday wasn't overflowing with oily corpses. I spent around three hours before I was bored, and decided to return to Seville.
Shopping wasn't anything special, well not for fashion anyway. There is an shop stocking Dior, Prada, Tod's and other designers, but only for women, it's called Sa Sa (or some name like that) and is on the same road as the Cathedral. There are several El Corte Ingles department stores which offer good women’s shoes (Balenciaga which I was most impressed with), but their menswear is too traditional, and staid, but that is pretty much the Spanish sense of men’s style, well certainly with the older generations. Coming from London, I find the supermarket sections fascinating, they're vast, and packed with produce that one would find only in delicatessens/specialist stores back home, some even feature a "Club El Gourment" which stocks an even higher quality product, and spirits/wines at bargain (compared to London) prices.
I now find myself running out of things to say about the city. I spent most of the time walking around, sitting down, relaxing by the pool. It's got fabulous architecture, a relatively untouristy feel, pleasant parks, and a welcoming, and completely unmenacing atmosphere. I'd like to spend Christmas time there, I'd imagine that the city really breathes and relaxes at that time.
If anyone would like to add/ask questions, please fire away!
I don't normally detail travelling information such as flights as it's rather mundane, but unfortunately neither out nor inbound proved to follow that familiar pattern. Going, I foolishly decided to try out the Gatwick Express, for some reason or other, I ended up leaving much later than anticipated, and arrived just 28 or so minutes before take-off. After a little persuasion, I managed to get them to allow me to check-in, and eventually I made it on to the plane. Coming home I experienced a five hour delay which was hell, compensation took the form of a voucher for a miserable sandwich. To add to the torment, baggage was delayed for nearly two hours after landing. I phoned BA with little response, so I've tried the e-mail route now!
Now on to the more useful information:
Taxi from the airport to Hotel Alfonso XII cost 25 or so EUR including a tip. Arrival was efficient with a porter taking care of luggage, check-in was equally smooth. Lifts had original bevelled mirrors and panelling, but for some inexplicable reason had a rather cheap laminate wood floor, also they were very small, and I'd imagine that some people may find them a little claustrophobic. Corridors to the rooms were wide, and airy.
Room itself comprised an ante-room with sofa in an alcove, a desk, two X-chairs, and a couple of side tables, this lead to a corridor with two large double wardrobes housing a safe/fridge, which lead through to the bedroom. Room was in a Moorish style with plaster mouldings, a yellow/green-patterned silk adorned the walls, and suitably ethnic furniture complemented the design scheme. Floors were original red and white marble. Bathroom did not have a separate shower, but was a good size and had (once again) Moorish influenced coppery lustre tiles and twin vanities. The window - with electric sunblind on the outside - looked on to the pleasant gardens complete with swimming pool, and orange trees. This is one of the most beautiful rooms I've ever had the pleasure of staying in. Not so much because of the amenities, but simply the superb style, refinement, and taste that is very much in keeping with the city itself. The gardens upon closer inspection would benefit from some more care and attention e.g. many leaves remained unswept, and oranges that had dropped from the trees should've been removed.
Pool service was more of an help yourself affair, with a large table of navy towels being made available, rather than being brought to oneself. A well equipped air-conditioned gym completed the recreational facilities. This property needs to have a spa created in the basement area, perhaps linking in with the pool; in the 21st century, a spa is slowly becoming something that's taken as being the norm.
On a similar line, the main restaurant (situated in the very attractive courtyard in the summer) has a dreadfully outdated menu both a la carte and table d'hote. The dishes appear to be too heavy, fussy, and lacking in imagination. Perhaps this is something that the well-heeled (for the food wasn't particularly cheap) Spaniards enjoy, but it certainly wasn't to my tastes. On a positive note, the bar served an excellent - and at 7.50EUR a steal - champagne cocktail in a coupe NOT flute which shows that they know what they're doing! I dined at the hotel on three (out of four nights) occasions, and on each one at the Japanese restaurant. This is an example of the hotel recognising the need to move forward, and create new areas and tastes. The restaurant is situated in a wooden Japanese style "house" (more shed-like) in the gardens beside the swimming pool. The design is very much in harmony with nature, having built this "house" around existing trees - they've been carefully incorporated so that they grow through the roof. Serving staff were oriental (some from Japan, some from China) and some needed more training, e.g. dishes were served too quickly, and whipped away as if they wanted to turnover customers as quickly as possible. Menu was pretty standard Japanese fare; the set menu at 19EUR comprised five courses, and represented something of a bargain, although I'd recommend supplementing it with dishes from the main menu. Spring rolls served wrapped in a mint leaf, which was in turn wrapped in a lettuce leaf, with a fragrant dipping sauce, were excellent. Lobster (not madly overpriced at 40EUR) was equally well cooked. One evening I even found an origami crane decorating my table - that was a nice touch.
Breakfast was a buffet affair, but it felt a little lacklustre, perhaps a little uninventive, nothing terrible, but certainly nowhere near those I've experienced in the past.
All in all, it is the best hotel in Seville (I looked in on the Melia Colon which doesn't compare), the original interiors really are a delight, and one feels privileged to be able to share in the immense sense of history that this hotel has to offer. For those of you planning to stay there, don't expect Ritz-Carlton service, but the décor, historic grandeur, opulence, and sense of charm should make up for that. Oh, and if your room isn't anything special, then I'd advise that you ask to change it, as my room (which I was allocated first time around) was really spectacular - in some respects it was even better than Hotel Grande Bretagne which is my current benchmark property. It was certainly more impressive than Hotel Arts, which felt naff.
Now for the city:
It's very Spanish, but perhaps with a Latin American overtone, very hot, but that didn't bother me. As for attractions, I couldn't be bothered with any of the museums there. I went to the Cathedral, and up the Giralda tower - some fabulous jewels are on display. I also took a bus, and boat tour. Skip the boat, it was boring, but the bus gave one a good feel for the city in a snapshot sense. I made enquiries with the concierge about day trips, they seemed to be over priced with one to Cadiz costing 90EUR per person. Instead, I took the train to Cadiz, and 15EUR (return) and an hour and a half later I was there. There's not all that much there, some more Spanish streets, and a pleasant atmosphere. The beach was golden sand, and being a weekday wasn't overflowing with oily corpses. I spent around three hours before I was bored, and decided to return to Seville.
Shopping wasn't anything special, well not for fashion anyway. There is an shop stocking Dior, Prada, Tod's and other designers, but only for women, it's called Sa Sa (or some name like that) and is on the same road as the Cathedral. There are several El Corte Ingles department stores which offer good women’s shoes (Balenciaga which I was most impressed with), but their menswear is too traditional, and staid, but that is pretty much the Spanish sense of men’s style, well certainly with the older generations. Coming from London, I find the supermarket sections fascinating, they're vast, and packed with produce that one would find only in delicatessens/specialist stores back home, some even feature a "Club El Gourment" which stocks an even higher quality product, and spirits/wines at bargain (compared to London) prices.
I now find myself running out of things to say about the city. I spent most of the time walking around, sitting down, relaxing by the pool. It's got fabulous architecture, a relatively untouristy feel, pleasant parks, and a welcoming, and completely unmenacing atmosphere. I'd like to spend Christmas time there, I'd imagine that the city really breathes and relaxes at that time.
If anyone would like to add/ask questions, please fire away!
Jun 26th, 2005, 02:31 AM
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It's worth noting there was an excellent Middle Eastern "restaurant" (nothing so grand) somewhere near the large park (sorry for lack of anything more useful) and they did a falafel as good as any that one can get in London!
Jun 26th, 2005, 06:20 AM
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Thank you for your report. Why did you eat dinner at your hotel so often? Didn't you want to eat in local restaurants and try the food of southern Spain? Mybe you aren't a foodie like I am. Did you see a flamenco show?
My favourite part of Sevilla was the courtyards with fountains and beautiful tile work. I also liked all the young people playing guitars on the street for money.
My favourite part of Sevilla was the courtyards with fountains and beautiful tile work. I also liked all the young people playing guitars on the street for money.
Jun 26th, 2005, 06:50 AM
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I'm not a fan of the atmosphere, nor the local Spanish food, it's not my scene. It's not me to pretend to like something because it's the culture. Sadly I couldn't find any Flamenco which didn't seem touristy.
That said, it was nice to walk out at night and sit down on one of the pavement "cafes" by the park and have a bottle of wine or two.
Seville reminded me a little of Madrid some 30 years ago, it hasn't really modernised, which is a positive thing I suppose. However, I'd like to see some more modern food. The Spanish tend to cook fish and make it too fishy...if that makes sense. I watched a cookery programme while I was getting ready one evening, and fish was put in a sauce made from fish and about one hundred pints of olive oil, and this was served over fish...too much!!!
I agree with you about the local architecture, it felt so original (well it was) and perfect for the setting. The Arab influences were very apparent. This is in stark contrast to Barcelona which feels utterly forced, and contrived.
That said, it was nice to walk out at night and sit down on one of the pavement "cafes" by the park and have a bottle of wine or two.
Seville reminded me a little of Madrid some 30 years ago, it hasn't really modernised, which is a positive thing I suppose. However, I'd like to see some more modern food. The Spanish tend to cook fish and make it too fishy...if that makes sense. I watched a cookery programme while I was getting ready one evening, and fish was put in a sauce made from fish and about one hundred pints of olive oil, and this was served over fish...too much!!!
I agree with you about the local architecture, it felt so original (well it was) and perfect for the setting. The Arab influences were very apparent. This is in stark contrast to Barcelona which feels utterly forced, and contrived.
Jun 26th, 2005, 06:57 AM
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Your report was very enjoyable. Your hotel suite sounded absolutely wonderful. I was really taken with the Moorish architecture of Seville when I visited there a couple years ago. To have a room in that style would be quite a treat for me.
Certainly you must have tasted some tapas while there. What were your favorites?
Good luck with your compensation for the baggage and flight delay.
Certainly you must have tasted some tapas while there. What were your favorites?
Good luck with your compensation for the baggage and flight delay.
Jun 26th, 2005, 07:31 AM
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I don't mind tapas because I can sit and pick, I always love the cheeses, breads, potatoes/vegetables, and cured meats, but that's not something I could consider for a dinner. Tapas is fabulously cheap, and some light white wine washes it down well.
I'm not expecting any compensation...the trouble with any large organisation is that they don't really care about the individual customers, well certainly with airlines.
I'm not expecting any compensation...the trouble with any large organisation is that they don't really care about the individual customers, well certainly with airlines.
Jun 26th, 2005, 11:14 AM
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Seeing as so many people have trouble knowing what to pack..After unpacking and sorting my case, I thought I'd share with you all some of the contents of my suitcase:
Tops: Several plain t-shirts from H&M which one doesn't really have to worry about. A couple of distressed Dior polo shirts. A t-shirt from next season's Dior. A Helmut Lang crisp white shirt. A Marni Blazer in stone colour. A Jil Sander black jacket.
Bottoms: A pair of stone Helmut Lang trousers. A pair of linen mix Helmut Lang jeans. A pair of Dior raw denim jeans. A pair of Dior black light cotton jeans.
Shoes: Pair of Miu Miu beige canvas beach style shoes. Pair of Miu Miu brown distressed leather sports shoes. Pair of black leather pointed toe Dior shoes. Pair of black canvas Dior Converse inspired shoes.
So next time you want to know what to wear in 40 degree heat, there's your answer!!
Tops: Several plain t-shirts from H&M which one doesn't really have to worry about. A couple of distressed Dior polo shirts. A t-shirt from next season's Dior. A Helmut Lang crisp white shirt. A Marni Blazer in stone colour. A Jil Sander black jacket.
Bottoms: A pair of stone Helmut Lang trousers. A pair of linen mix Helmut Lang jeans. A pair of Dior raw denim jeans. A pair of Dior black light cotton jeans.
Shoes: Pair of Miu Miu beige canvas beach style shoes. Pair of Miu Miu brown distressed leather sports shoes. Pair of black leather pointed toe Dior shoes. Pair of black canvas Dior Converse inspired shoes.
So next time you want to know what to wear in 40 degree heat, there's your answer!!
Jun 26th, 2005, 04:21 PM
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You didn't mention Flamenco, one of the best parts of Sevilla! Whether impromtu at local tavernas or a stylized "touristy" show like at Los Gallos, Flamenco has to be part of your experience in Sevilla! I recommend all of you planning to visit the city in the coming months to make sure this is part of your itinerary. Also do not forget a trip to Plaza España to see the intricate tiled Moorish architecture M_kingdom2 was writing about! It is breathtaking!
Sevilla does have a lot to offer and I do hope everyone enjoys it as I have the two times I have visited. And according to my child's world geography class, it is the hottest city in Europe, so be prepared for the 40+ C afternoons!
Sevilla does have a lot to offer and I do hope everyone enjoys it as I have the two times I have visited. And according to my child's world geography class, it is the hottest city in Europe, so be prepared for the 40+ C afternoons!
Jun 26th, 2005, 04:37 PM
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I'm Spanish and I don't like Flamenco. In fact, is a very very minotary thing here (even more than bullfighting is).
There are a few good singers (2 or 3) who do concerts through Spain (I've seen one in London in the Time Out Guide, if anyone is interested) and the rest, mostly work for the touristic tablaos because there are no many places for them to work.
So, while it's a music I fully respect I don't see it important at all when visiting Seville (and I went to a tablao when visiting
)
There are a few good singers (2 or 3) who do concerts through Spain (I've seen one in London in the Time Out Guide, if anyone is interested) and the rest, mostly work for the touristic tablaos because there are no many places for them to work.
So, while it's a music I fully respect I don't see it important at all when visiting Seville (and I went to a tablao when visiting
)
Jun 27th, 2005, 03:26 PM
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Sadly no jacuzzi. It was just a pool. That's why I feel it needs the creation of a spa area so very badly. It does need a little polish, but the foundations are there for an even better property. I'm quite astounded at some of the comments on tripadvisor of people who've stayed there. It's very stylish luxury.
Jun 27th, 2005, 03:57 PM
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Sombody who DID recently post a TripAdvisor "review" definitely mentioned the fact that they had to fetch their own towels at the pool (which made me wonder who brings them when they use the bathroom at home) but I am now more anxious than ever to see, and stay in, the place when we hit Seville next month.
Jun 28th, 2005, 01:59 AM
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I read that review too prior to booking. One has to realise that this is a city-centre hotel, NOT a resort hotel. Thus, the primary focus is not on in-house leisure facilities. And, for me it was no hardship having to walk ten yards to a table piled high with towels. Also, at Hotel Arts in Barcelona, towels were self-service too, albeit there was someone to hand them to you from behind a table!
