Long Italy Trip Report
Apr 15th, 2004, 03:51 PM
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Long Italy Trip Report
I wrote up this whole report in notepad before posting it here, and it seems I've written a lot. I apologize in advance, and hope some of you can get something from it. Feel free to ask questions about anything I've included in it, or anything else I saw.
Apr 15th, 2004, 04:02 PM
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I got back just last Sunday from 10 days travelling by myself in Italy. I was travelling on a budget, so stayed in hostels and rarely treated myself to fancy meals, so I won't mention much in the way of hotels or restaurants. I can answer any questions about what I did find, if anyone is interested in this sort of venue, though. I packed a lot into
my 10 days, however, so there should be no shortage of things to mention!
I am studying in Germany, and so it was quite convenient to take the night train down from Germany to Milan. Booking at www.nachtzugreise.de (in German), there are some very good deals for travelling this way, and I would highly reccomend it, if you get a couchette. (Coming back I only reserved a seat and didn't enjoy it. More on this at the end.) Despite usually not sleeping well, I woke up feeling refreshed when we arrived in Milan at about 8:00 AM. I then caught a train directly from Milan to Venice.
I had 1 1/2 days and 2 nights in Venice, and felt this was enough time. However, I didn't go to see much in the way of art museums, so anyone interested in these would
definetely want more time. My first half day I spend just wandering around, and got the 24 hour "Tourist Ticket" for the vaporettos. I wasn't that impressed with Venice at first.
It was definetely a very romantic city, and thus keenly felt that I wasn't travelling with my boyfriend (or any friends for that matter), so I think that made it lose a lot of its charm for me. However, the Grand Canal which I hadn't been that amazed by during daylight, became absolutely amazing after dark. I took a "cruise" on the vaporettos down to St.
Mark's Square from Rialto using my ticket, and then back again, and it was simply enchanting. I saw all the big sights at St. Mark's Square, St. Mark's Basilica being marvellous, and the Doge's Palace very interesting. The Doge's Palace also had a few
other museums in the vicinity included on its ticket, so I also saw Correr Museum and the Archeological Museum. The Correr Museum was interesting, though not a must-see, and by the time I got to the Archeological Museum, I was a bit museumed out, and it didn't have anything interesting enough to hold my attention. I also saw a plethora of churches, my favorite being the Basilica of Sts. John and Paul. I was just wandering down the tiny streets of Venice and suddenly this huge church is looming above me! It really surprised me, and I was even looking for it. There was a small fee for entrance, but it was very uncrowded inside and there was some lovely artworks, the tombs of a
number of doges and plenty of Latin inscriptions for me to read.
My first day after Venice was spent city hopping down the east coast of Italy. I stopped first in Ferrara, which wasn't what I was expecting. It would be a great place for bicycling, or hiking along the walls (which were less wall-like and more mound-like than I was expecting), but it was a long walk into the center of town from the train station. The Castello Estense was very impressive, however, with drawbridges, a moat (with fountains in it), towers and courtyard. I decided against the tour of the inside rooms, as the cost was more than double what my guidebook quoted, and I wanted to get on to
Ravenna. In Ravenna, I got a ticket to see all the different major mosaic sights and set off in full gear. It was a fairly easy walk between them, and I completed the circuit in a couple hours. The mosaics were marvellous, but there wasn't much to see at each sight, and even the museum was only a half dozen different items. The stop was definetely well worth it, but I wouldn't plan more than a day trip there. From Ravenna I continued down to arrive late in Ancona, where I merely checked into my hostel, rather than doing any sightseeing (as planned).
A got up early Palm Sunday morning in Ancona to hurry to the train station, where I found the next train I wanted wouldn't leave for another 3 hours, so I got to sit around at the train station and wait. Once the train took off, I headed to Assisi. As the train
approached, I both hoped it was the right place and wasn't. For one thing, it looked amazing. On the other hand, it was waaay up the hill. I've since learned this is fairly par
for the course for hilltowns, and taking a bus to the top was very easy. I explored all afternoon and it ended up being a marvellous day to be there! I got my olive sprigs and
listened in on the beautiful singing at Palm Sunday mass at St. Francis' Basilica. The town itself was charming, but it's a long, fairly arduous walk up to see the Rocco Maggiore at the top, but I enjoyed the view and climbing through the fortress. Finishing in Assisi, I took another train onto Rome where I again arrived late. A note to make sure
you actually have the -address- of your hotel, not just the street name, so you don't have to stop at an internet cafe to find your hotel, especially when arriving after dark. (It escaped my notice that I didn't have the number for this one, but all the others did.)
I spent a total of five nights in Rome, during Holy Week of all times! It was very busy and hectic, and crossing the street was an adventure every time. The driving was scary
as a person on foot and very loud. I think I would have appreciated Venice much more had I visited it after Rome. There was so much to see, however! There first full day I had
was spent in Ancient Rome. I was simply awed at the amount of ruins. I got to the Imperial Forums, and beyond that there were more forums, and then more ruins, and Palatine Hill above, and the Collosseum, and still more beyond that. I found it all very interesting, if not terribly informative just walking along without a guide.
The next day, I went to Vatican City and the Vatican Museums. When they say to arrive early, they honestly meant it. I shrugged it off and figured I could handle a little waiting in line. As I arrived, the signs led me right to the entrance, and I saw the line going around the corner. So I followed it along around another corner, and another, up to about four in total, nearly a quarter of the way around the Vatican. An hour and a half later, I finally got into the museums. This is truly a very monumental complex. Following
the signs to the Sistine Chapel, I must have gone through three or four different museums. There weren't a lot of explanations, but there was a lot to see and the artwork was beautiful. I then went on to St. Peter's Square for another (not so long) line into St. Peter's Basilica, which I very much enjoyed. I had signed up to take the Scavi Tour (ancient Roman mausoleums filled in with dirt to build the basilica and recently discovered and excavated), but there hadn't been enough room for me. However, sitting in St. Peter's Square after seeing the basilica, I was approached by someone who had had part of their group not show up, and didn't want to be out the ticket money. So they invited me along! It was a real treat, which I very much enjoyed. I would highly reccomend it to anyone. However, sign up far in advance, as it's not likely you'll be as lucky as I was.
Wednesday I took an excursion to Ostia Antica, Rome's ancient port city, which fell into dissuse and was forgotten about. It was much quieter than Rome (thank goodness!), but still lots to see. On first inspection, it didn't seem like there was much to it, but as you continue exploring, it becomes very easy to believe this was a whole city. There are numerous streets of old buildings, with markets and mansions and temples. There were some lovely mosaics and brickwork, and you could walk into most buildings. I've heard it compared to Pompeii, but haven't been to Pompeii myself to compare. Definetely closer to Rome though! It was a great spot for a picnic, as I've heard reccomended a number of times, and I thoroughly enjoyed my own there.
Thursday I went to both the catacombs on Via Appia and Tivoli. Catching the bus to Via Appia was a lengthy process, but ended up working out without problems. I visited the San Callisto Catacombs and took one of the tours in English. I found it interesting, but didn't feel inclined to visit the other catacombs. One satisfied my interest. I then took the metro-train to Tivoli. This put me at the train station a bit of a walk from the Villas, but it was about 45 minutes shorter than going by bus (which I took for my return trip). Villa d'Este's gardens lived up to everything they were supposed to be, though the Villa itself was nothing special and unfurnished. The fountains were spectacular, and I can only imagine how they must have been new. I wanted to see Villa Adriana too, but I missed its last entry time by 15 minutes or so, while wandering around not realizing its actually at the bottom of the hill and you need to take a bus. Ahh well, another reason to come back someday! I took the bus back to Rome, it was full, but not terribly crowded, and much more convenient to the center of town than the train.
I got up early the next day to head on to Cortona, a Tuscan hilltown, for my last night in Italy. On arriving at the train station in Camucia, below Cortona, I was put off by the
dreariness of the town. It was dead quiet and a bit rainy, with a possible half hour before the next bus to Cortona showed up. I very nearly continued on to Florence, but I'm glad I didn't! The bus did show up, 10 minutes late, and took me up to the city. For sights, there's not a lot to see, but I did enjoy the Etruscan Museum. Since it was Good Friday, I went to mass at the local cathedral, but didn't get much out of the experience for my lack of Italian skills. There was also supposed to be a procession, which I missed, because a friend I made at the hostel and I ate dinner late, and then we couldn't find it.
Another early morning on Saturday, as I took the bus from Cortona to Arezzo, where I caught the train on to Florence. My night train left from Florence at about 5 pm, and so I had until then to explore Florence. I did one circuit around the city, not going inside anything, which I completed fairly quickly. I did get myself a -much- larger than expected gelato which caused children on the street to gawk, which was very good. Having not spent more than an hour or so, I decided to make another circuit. This time I went inside the Duomo, which I liked better outside than inside, and the Palazzo Vecchio, which had a lot of neat things to see. I also shopped some in the sidewalk markets. I'm not sure if these are every day, or just Saturday only, but it was fun.
I then took my train back to Germany. I had wanted to spend Easter in Italy as well, but there was only the one night train per week from Florence (the others only come from so far as Milan). As I would be arriving back at my city at 4:30 AM, I had opted for a seat reservation, rather than a couchette. It was a long trip back, and I regretted not getting the couchette. It wouldn't have been a full night's sleep, but the seats became very uncomfortable after a few hours, and I just twiddled my thumbs impatiently for the rest of the ride. A complete contrast to my to-journey, which was very comfortable and pleasant.
my 10 days, however, so there should be no shortage of things to mention!
I am studying in Germany, and so it was quite convenient to take the night train down from Germany to Milan. Booking at www.nachtzugreise.de (in German), there are some very good deals for travelling this way, and I would highly reccomend it, if you get a couchette. (Coming back I only reserved a seat and didn't enjoy it. More on this at the end.) Despite usually not sleeping well, I woke up feeling refreshed when we arrived in Milan at about 8:00 AM. I then caught a train directly from Milan to Venice.
I had 1 1/2 days and 2 nights in Venice, and felt this was enough time. However, I didn't go to see much in the way of art museums, so anyone interested in these would
definetely want more time. My first half day I spend just wandering around, and got the 24 hour "Tourist Ticket" for the vaporettos. I wasn't that impressed with Venice at first.
It was definetely a very romantic city, and thus keenly felt that I wasn't travelling with my boyfriend (or any friends for that matter), so I think that made it lose a lot of its charm for me. However, the Grand Canal which I hadn't been that amazed by during daylight, became absolutely amazing after dark. I took a "cruise" on the vaporettos down to St.
Mark's Square from Rialto using my ticket, and then back again, and it was simply enchanting. I saw all the big sights at St. Mark's Square, St. Mark's Basilica being marvellous, and the Doge's Palace very interesting. The Doge's Palace also had a few
other museums in the vicinity included on its ticket, so I also saw Correr Museum and the Archeological Museum. The Correr Museum was interesting, though not a must-see, and by the time I got to the Archeological Museum, I was a bit museumed out, and it didn't have anything interesting enough to hold my attention. I also saw a plethora of churches, my favorite being the Basilica of Sts. John and Paul. I was just wandering down the tiny streets of Venice and suddenly this huge church is looming above me! It really surprised me, and I was even looking for it. There was a small fee for entrance, but it was very uncrowded inside and there was some lovely artworks, the tombs of a
number of doges and plenty of Latin inscriptions for me to read.
My first day after Venice was spent city hopping down the east coast of Italy. I stopped first in Ferrara, which wasn't what I was expecting. It would be a great place for bicycling, or hiking along the walls (which were less wall-like and more mound-like than I was expecting), but it was a long walk into the center of town from the train station. The Castello Estense was very impressive, however, with drawbridges, a moat (with fountains in it), towers and courtyard. I decided against the tour of the inside rooms, as the cost was more than double what my guidebook quoted, and I wanted to get on to
Ravenna. In Ravenna, I got a ticket to see all the different major mosaic sights and set off in full gear. It was a fairly easy walk between them, and I completed the circuit in a couple hours. The mosaics were marvellous, but there wasn't much to see at each sight, and even the museum was only a half dozen different items. The stop was definetely well worth it, but I wouldn't plan more than a day trip there. From Ravenna I continued down to arrive late in Ancona, where I merely checked into my hostel, rather than doing any sightseeing (as planned).
A got up early Palm Sunday morning in Ancona to hurry to the train station, where I found the next train I wanted wouldn't leave for another 3 hours, so I got to sit around at the train station and wait. Once the train took off, I headed to Assisi. As the train
approached, I both hoped it was the right place and wasn't. For one thing, it looked amazing. On the other hand, it was waaay up the hill. I've since learned this is fairly par
for the course for hilltowns, and taking a bus to the top was very easy. I explored all afternoon and it ended up being a marvellous day to be there! I got my olive sprigs and
listened in on the beautiful singing at Palm Sunday mass at St. Francis' Basilica. The town itself was charming, but it's a long, fairly arduous walk up to see the Rocco Maggiore at the top, but I enjoyed the view and climbing through the fortress. Finishing in Assisi, I took another train onto Rome where I again arrived late. A note to make sure
you actually have the -address- of your hotel, not just the street name, so you don't have to stop at an internet cafe to find your hotel, especially when arriving after dark. (It escaped my notice that I didn't have the number for this one, but all the others did.)
I spent a total of five nights in Rome, during Holy Week of all times! It was very busy and hectic, and crossing the street was an adventure every time. The driving was scary
as a person on foot and very loud. I think I would have appreciated Venice much more had I visited it after Rome. There was so much to see, however! There first full day I had
was spent in Ancient Rome. I was simply awed at the amount of ruins. I got to the Imperial Forums, and beyond that there were more forums, and then more ruins, and Palatine Hill above, and the Collosseum, and still more beyond that. I found it all very interesting, if not terribly informative just walking along without a guide.
The next day, I went to Vatican City and the Vatican Museums. When they say to arrive early, they honestly meant it. I shrugged it off and figured I could handle a little waiting in line. As I arrived, the signs led me right to the entrance, and I saw the line going around the corner. So I followed it along around another corner, and another, up to about four in total, nearly a quarter of the way around the Vatican. An hour and a half later, I finally got into the museums. This is truly a very monumental complex. Following
the signs to the Sistine Chapel, I must have gone through three or four different museums. There weren't a lot of explanations, but there was a lot to see and the artwork was beautiful. I then went on to St. Peter's Square for another (not so long) line into St. Peter's Basilica, which I very much enjoyed. I had signed up to take the Scavi Tour (ancient Roman mausoleums filled in with dirt to build the basilica and recently discovered and excavated), but there hadn't been enough room for me. However, sitting in St. Peter's Square after seeing the basilica, I was approached by someone who had had part of their group not show up, and didn't want to be out the ticket money. So they invited me along! It was a real treat, which I very much enjoyed. I would highly reccomend it to anyone. However, sign up far in advance, as it's not likely you'll be as lucky as I was.
Wednesday I took an excursion to Ostia Antica, Rome's ancient port city, which fell into dissuse and was forgotten about. It was much quieter than Rome (thank goodness!), but still lots to see. On first inspection, it didn't seem like there was much to it, but as you continue exploring, it becomes very easy to believe this was a whole city. There are numerous streets of old buildings, with markets and mansions and temples. There were some lovely mosaics and brickwork, and you could walk into most buildings. I've heard it compared to Pompeii, but haven't been to Pompeii myself to compare. Definetely closer to Rome though! It was a great spot for a picnic, as I've heard reccomended a number of times, and I thoroughly enjoyed my own there.
Thursday I went to both the catacombs on Via Appia and Tivoli. Catching the bus to Via Appia was a lengthy process, but ended up working out without problems. I visited the San Callisto Catacombs and took one of the tours in English. I found it interesting, but didn't feel inclined to visit the other catacombs. One satisfied my interest. I then took the metro-train to Tivoli. This put me at the train station a bit of a walk from the Villas, but it was about 45 minutes shorter than going by bus (which I took for my return trip). Villa d'Este's gardens lived up to everything they were supposed to be, though the Villa itself was nothing special and unfurnished. The fountains were spectacular, and I can only imagine how they must have been new. I wanted to see Villa Adriana too, but I missed its last entry time by 15 minutes or so, while wandering around not realizing its actually at the bottom of the hill and you need to take a bus. Ahh well, another reason to come back someday! I took the bus back to Rome, it was full, but not terribly crowded, and much more convenient to the center of town than the train.
I got up early the next day to head on to Cortona, a Tuscan hilltown, for my last night in Italy. On arriving at the train station in Camucia, below Cortona, I was put off by the
dreariness of the town. It was dead quiet and a bit rainy, with a possible half hour before the next bus to Cortona showed up. I very nearly continued on to Florence, but I'm glad I didn't! The bus did show up, 10 minutes late, and took me up to the city. For sights, there's not a lot to see, but I did enjoy the Etruscan Museum. Since it was Good Friday, I went to mass at the local cathedral, but didn't get much out of the experience for my lack of Italian skills. There was also supposed to be a procession, which I missed, because a friend I made at the hostel and I ate dinner late, and then we couldn't find it.
Another early morning on Saturday, as I took the bus from Cortona to Arezzo, where I caught the train on to Florence. My night train left from Florence at about 5 pm, and so I had until then to explore Florence. I did one circuit around the city, not going inside anything, which I completed fairly quickly. I did get myself a -much- larger than expected gelato which caused children on the street to gawk, which was very good. Having not spent more than an hour or so, I decided to make another circuit. This time I went inside the Duomo, which I liked better outside than inside, and the Palazzo Vecchio, which had a lot of neat things to see. I also shopped some in the sidewalk markets. I'm not sure if these are every day, or just Saturday only, but it was fun.
I then took my train back to Germany. I had wanted to spend Easter in Italy as well, but there was only the one night train per week from Florence (the others only come from so far as Milan). As I would be arriving back at my city at 4:30 AM, I had opted for a seat reservation, rather than a couchette. It was a long trip back, and I regretted not getting the couchette. It wouldn't have been a full night's sleep, but the seats became very uncomfortable after a few hours, and I just twiddled my thumbs impatiently for the rest of the ride. A complete contrast to my to-journey, which was very comfortable and pleasant.
Apr 16th, 2004, 01:21 AM
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Very interesting report! Did you encounter any difficulties as a woman traveling alone?
Also, did you consider taking a day train back to your German destination? I know they are long train rides, but from Milan up to Germany would have been quite scenic, especially as you went through Switzerland...although it would have taken a day from your vacation.
Also, did you consider taking a day train back to your German destination? I know they are long train rides, but from Milan up to Germany would have been quite scenic, especially as you went through Switzerland...although it would have taken a day from your vacation.
Apr 16th, 2004, 04:35 AM
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I stayed at B&B Rota in Venice, which is a hostel, for all its saying B&B in the name. They put me off in a seperate building a ways down the street so I had to walk back over for breakfast. All the same, it was affordable in Venice which very few things are, and the location was very central, just a short walk to the Rialto bridge, and on my last day, I walked the other way back to the train station.
The hostel in Ancona didn't seem to have any name besides Ancona Hostel, and was convenient to the train station, though I had trouble finding it as it was dark when I arrived and the street I was looking for wasn't obvious. The owners were friendly, but didn't speak English at all, so I got to practice my Italian (and Charades).
Yellow Hostel in Rome was again close to the train station, and was a very young hostel, run by a group of people in their 20s, but I think a number of them had English as their first language. Breakfast was a bit miniscule, consisting of a packaged pastry and a juice box, but I think they had make your own tea and coffee in the kitchen. The common room was very friendly, with people there at most times, free internet and usually playing movies in English. I didn't have a problem with all the people in the dorms resulting in noise, but I think construction noises woke me up every morning.
Ostello San Marco in Cortona was the most traditional hostel I was at, with a lock out during the day and a lockout at night, but it felt safe and comfortable, and breakfast was good.
As a woman travelling alone, I felt very safe for the most points, though I did get hit on more than I was comfortable with. On the flip side, the waiters seemed to "find" things in the kitchen more often. A bit of bruschetta, a glass of limoncello. I think they felt sorry for me, for being all by myself.
As for the day train between Italy and Germany, I did look at it, it was actually my first thought, but the cost was double what the night train was. If I was on a less limited budget, and did it again, I would probably the day train for the return, while I was quite happy with how the night train fit into my outward journey.
The hostel in Ancona didn't seem to have any name besides Ancona Hostel, and was convenient to the train station, though I had trouble finding it as it was dark when I arrived and the street I was looking for wasn't obvious. The owners were friendly, but didn't speak English at all, so I got to practice my Italian (and Charades).
Yellow Hostel in Rome was again close to the train station, and was a very young hostel, run by a group of people in their 20s, but I think a number of them had English as their first language. Breakfast was a bit miniscule, consisting of a packaged pastry and a juice box, but I think they had make your own tea and coffee in the kitchen. The common room was very friendly, with people there at most times, free internet and usually playing movies in English. I didn't have a problem with all the people in the dorms resulting in noise, but I think construction noises woke me up every morning.
Ostello San Marco in Cortona was the most traditional hostel I was at, with a lock out during the day and a lockout at night, but it felt safe and comfortable, and breakfast was good.
As a woman travelling alone, I felt very safe for the most points, though I did get hit on more than I was comfortable with. On the flip side, the waiters seemed to "find" things in the kitchen more often. A bit of bruschetta, a glass of limoncello. I think they felt sorry for me, for being all by myself.
As for the day train between Italy and Germany, I did look at it, it was actually my first thought, but the cost was double what the night train was. If I was on a less limited budget, and did it again, I would probably the day train for the return, while I was quite happy with how the night train fit into my outward journey.
Apr 16th, 2004, 05:14 AM
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Hi Vickitty
I'm really glad you posted your report; it helps emphasize the diversity of budgets and styles represented by this board. What was your target budget per day, and do you feel happy that you met it? Any regrets about where you did or didn't spend your money? (You've mentioned one thing: next time, a couchette and not just a seat on an nighttime train ride).
I'm really glad you posted your report; it helps emphasize the diversity of budgets and styles represented by this board. What was your target budget per day, and do you feel happy that you met it? Any regrets about where you did or didn't spend your money? (You've mentioned one thing: next time, a couchette and not just a seat on an nighttime train ride).
Apr 16th, 2004, 06:31 AM
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I was aiming for about 50 Euros a day, including transportation and lodging, but budgetted for 80, in case it was needed. I ended up hitting somewhere between the two, probably an average of 65 a night, though some nights were much cheaper. Basically, doing things in the small towns, Assisi and Cortona, was more affordable than the big cities, despite Assisi being touristy. Though Ostia Antica was the cheapest day. I don't really have any regrets on not spending money, though I would like to do more in the way of nice food if I ever go again. I can mention one time where I'm actually glad I took the cheaper option, though. Coming into Milan, I had the choice of a Eurostar or a IC train to Venice, with the Eurostar leaving a half hour earlier. I decided to go with the IC, and as it turned out, the Eurostar train was late, and it was the IC that arrived in Venice first. I did have enough leeway in my budget that if I wanted to splurge a bit on something, I could. Taking the cheap route doesn't necessarily mean completely depriving yourself.
Apr 16th, 2004, 10:18 AM
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Hi. I have a quick question. How long did it take you to get to the catacombs by bus? I'm traveling with my senior citizen mother (who is quite hardy), and am trying to figure out if it is easier to book a tour or just go on our own to the catacombs.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Apr 16th, 2004, 10:52 AM
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Catacombs wasn't a very long trip. I took the metro out of Termini to Circo Massimo, and then took a short walk around the corner to the Therme Caracalla bus stop, but I think there was the correct bus from Circo Massimo too, and I just couldn't find it. I did have to wait maybe half an hour for the bus to come for Via Appia, and there were no benches to wait on. If you could find out the schedule for the bus ahead of time, you could reduce this waiting time a lot. Once on the bus, it was less than a 10 minute ride. Again, at the catacombs stop, no place to sit and rest for the way back. The bus stop was very close to the catacombs though, so not a lot of walking.
Apr 16th, 2004, 01:17 PM
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Herewego: Do a search at the top of the page for archeobus or click-on on my name Paradiselost and scroll down until you see my Catacombs-Archeobus post. This is the easiest way to the Catacombs.
Someone recently posted on another forum that they caught the bus from Termini so be sure to check (call when in Rome for a reservation) because in my post I caught the bus from Piazza Venezia in March '02 & '03. Regards, Walter
Someone recently posted on another forum that they caught the bus from Termini so be sure to check (call when in Rome for a reservation) because in my post I caught the bus from Piazza Venezia in March '02 & '03. Regards, Walter
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