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London: Wallace Collection or Courtauld Gallery?

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London: Wallace Collection or Courtauld Gallery?

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Old Sep 5th, 2011, 04:33 PM
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London: Wallace Collection or Courtauld Gallery?

I'm hoping to do both, but my time in London is limited.

Any advice on which is best? (My favorites are 17th-19th century painting.)
Thanks,
MG
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Old Sep 5th, 2011, 05:53 PM
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Morning-Giggle, when I saw your post, my immediate answer was, of course, THE WALLACE COLLECTION which I loved when I visited in July. I quote from my recent trip report:


“SATURDAY, July 16: Rain, as predicted. My destination was THE WALLACE COLLECTION, Manchester Square off Oxford Street not far from Marble Arch. I took the wrong bus whose terminus was Oxford Circle, so I trudged to my destination up Oxford Street with hood up and umbrella open. The museum is housed in HEREFORD HOUSE, the ducal residence of the 4th Marquess of Hereford, art collector extraordinaire and his illegitimate son Richard Wallace who bequeathed the collection and property to the nation around 1900. Admission is free – donations gratefully accepted.


I am at a loss to describe their treasures of 18th century French paintings, porcelain, furniture, bibelots, medieval and Renaissance works, and “the finest collections of princely arms and armour in Britain.” Their website – wallacecollection.org – gives an excellent overview of the mansion and its holdings. I arrived just in time for a tour conducted by charming docent who obviously was also fluent in French. The 4th Marquess and his son Richard Wallace spent a good deal of their lives in Paris where they collected madly – presumably many of their finds were plentiful and cheap (all things being relative) in the years following the French Revolution. The Hereford wealth was derived from landholdings in England and Ireland.


To name just a few gems: the magnificent staircase balustrade designed with motifs popular in the reign of Louis XV, Frogonard’s THE SWING (1767 iconic image for the Wallace Collection), Frans Hals THE LAUGHING CAVALIER (1624), and American painter Thomas Sully’s flattering portrait of the young QUEEN ELIZABETH (1838). Not sure why the latter work is not in Buckingham Palace. Obviously, the Marquess and Mr. Wallace were well connected. According to the terms of their bequest, no item in the collection can be sold or loaned. The Wallace Collection facility has added a lovely dining room in the covered courtyard in the rear which was filled to capacity the day I visited.


One regret. When I returned home and was reading the Wallace Guidebook, I noticed that I had missed several paintings by Ernest Meissonier. But who’s he? A few years back I had read THE JUDGEMENT OF PARIS: MANET, MESSONIER, AND AN ARTISTIC REVOLUTION by Marion Boddy-Evans. The work contrasts the career of the classical painter Meissonier, who enjoyed tremendous fame and fortune, against that of Manet and his contemporaries who were struggling to gain acceptance in the Salon. We all know how that worked out - Messonier’s technical virtuosity became passé as the Impressionists flourished.”


Forgive the length, but since you are a lover of that period, I thought I would quote the whole thing including the bit about MESSONIER.


However, when I checked the COURTHAULD GALLERY, I was amazed! How did I miss this place in my research? Perhaps the word “gallery” threw me off. I think of a “gallery” as a place where paintings are sold, not displayed. Lesson learned.


I watched the video and couldn’t believe the number of iconic painting including “Luncheon on the Grass” by Manet and so many others that displayed at the Courthauld. The collection is a veritable treasure trove of Impressionism and post- impressionism. And to think that I was so near when I stayed at the Strand Palace!


Again, THE WALLACE COLLECTION is fabulous – check the website. I would not want to choose between the two. Hopefully you can see both. Please let us know what you decide….
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Old Sep 5th, 2011, 05:55 PM
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Spelling correction - COURTAULD
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Old Sep 5th, 2011, 06:19 PM
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Really <B>REALLY</B> try to get to both.

If you truly only have time for one--it depends on where your main interests lie.

Cannaletto, Dutch masters, furniture, works of art. . . . The Wallace.

Impressionists/post-impressionists, Rubens, metalwork, . . . The Courtauld.

Now, those are generalizations, but a start. BOTH are absolutely wonderful. If you really like Impressionists -- I'd probably choose the Courtauld. Otherwise, <i>maybe</i> the Wallace.

But honestly --do try to visit both.
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Old Sep 5th, 2011, 07:46 PM
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Wow, Latedaytraveler, what a wonderful post! And Janisj also, thank you very much!

Fragonard and Hals, and (Janis) Cannaletto and the Dutch Masters, oh BOY! I will head for the Wallace Collection first thing, I'm so excited!

Lateday, I stayed at the Strand Palace once too -- great location isn't it? Like you, I never even knew about the Couutauld, even when I lived in England and used to walk across the Waterloo Bridge each time I went up to London.

I've got two days in October, and happily got the Grand at Trafalgar Square through Priceline, so I'll be well placed for both of them. Thing is, I also will visit the National Gallery (my old favorite)and Hatchards, which I fear may eat up one day. But I'll definitely go to the Wallace, and hope for the Courtauld. Thank you so much!!
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Old Sep 5th, 2011, 07:46 PM
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It's pointless advising you.

Only you know how much time you've got, and what you're really interested in. Personally, I wouldn't waste time at the Wallace Collection under any circumstances - but that's just me.

The Courtauld charges: the Wallace Collection's free. The Courtauld's in a fascinating complex of lots of different things, with amazing access to, and views along, the riverbank and of significant historical importance. The Wallace is just your average (though one of few surviving) late 18th century toff's town residence in a dull (though reasonably handsome) part of town.

Otherwise, they've both got excellent websites describing their collections. Time spent researching those two sites will be much more usefully spent than reading lengthy puffery for one of them from someone who's never been to the other.
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Old Sep 5th, 2011, 08:06 PM
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"<i>got the Grand at Trafalgar Square through Priceline</i>"

May I ask how much you bid to get the Grand?
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Old Sep 6th, 2011, 12:05 AM
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For pleasant location, nice cafe and gift shop, it's the Wallace.

For quality of paintings, definitely the Courtauld.
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Old Sep 6th, 2011, 02:44 AM
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Yo, tarquin, that's a judgement call! Personally, I would sacrifice a lot to see both.
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Old Sep 6th, 2011, 03:41 AM
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I think calling the Wallace "average" is like calling Chipping Camden "Paris."
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Old Sep 6th, 2011, 08:24 AM
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Flanner, may I ask, have you every been INSIDE the Wallace Collection?
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